Lawn Care Maintenance and Repair | Family Handyman

10 Water-Saving Tips for Your Garden and Yard

Laurie M Nichols — Wed, 30 Apr 2025 16:25:30 +0000

Water, like everything else these days, is getting more expensive. In my town, the rate per gallon has more than doubled over the past two years, with another increase expected next year. Beyond the rising cost, water is a limited resource that deserves thoughtful use by both homeowners and municipalities.

To do your part and save some money in the process, opt for water-saving strategies and practices when planning and cultivating lawns and gardens. Ahead, we share ten practical water-saving tips, with input from two lawn and garden experts: Ryan Mange from CMS Landscaping and Joe Churchill from Reinders.

Choose drought-tolerant plants

This tip applies to lawns and gardens. When planting lawns, choose drought-tolerant grass seed types like buffalo grass, tall fescue or fine fescue, which require less watering once established. In garden beds, opt for drought-tolerant plants such as lavender, yarrow, salvia and black-eyed Susan to reduce the need for watering.

Add a rain barrel (or two)

Attached to your home’s gutter system, rain barrels make it easy to divert rainwater to your garden or lawn. I always have at least one rain barrel on my property and use it to water my flower containers. It’s a simple way to cut down on municipal water use, especially during dry spells. Even a single storm can fill a barrel, providing a free and sustainable water source for days.

Mulch well

“Proper mulching of plants and garden beds helps reduce water loss due to evaporation and retain water in root zones of trees, shrubs and other garden plants,” Mange says. “Three to four inches of mulch is plenty, and be sure not to pile it up around the trunks of trees and shrubs.” Organic mulches like wood chips, straw or shredded leaves can also improve soil quality over time as they break down.

Plant native shrubs

In the garden, choose native plants shrubs and perennial flowers. These set deep root systems and are more likely to ride out a dry spell. Native plants are also better adapted to local soil and climate conditions, which means they typically need less water, fertilizer and maintenance overall. Choosing the right plants can make a big difference in water usage.

Add organic matter to soil

“Organic material in the soil provides sites for both water and nutrients to adhere and be available for roots or plants,” Mange says. If your soil is hard and dry, consider amending it with compost or aged manure. This not only improves water retention but also enhances soil structure and supports healthier root growth.

Replace grass with ground cover

Ground covers like pachysandra, vinka vine and ivy require little maintenance once established, and need little to no water. The areas of pachysandra in my yard have never been watered and look great year after year.

Install a smart irrigation system

A smart irrigation system includes ground sensors placed strategically throughout your lawn. “These sensors will sense when the soil under your lawn is dry and will engage the system only when water is needed. And, just as importantly, tell your irrigation system when it’s not needed and can take the day (or two or three) off,” Churchill says. These systems “lead to precise usage and way less waste and runoff than older irrigation systems or watering with a garden hose,” Mange says.

Raise the mower height

Longer grass blades shade the soil and reduce evaporation caused by direct sun exposure by keep the ground cooler during hot weather. In addition, maintaining a taller grass height encourages deeper root growth, which improves the lawn’s drought resistance over time. Raise your mower deck to 4-in. for cooler-weather grass and to 3-in. for warm weather grass.

Only water during ideal conditions

Early morning is generally considered the best time to water, as temperatures are cool and the grass has time to absorb the water through the day. “Try to stay away from watering during the midday when ambient temps are hot, and it may be windy,” Churchill says. If temperatures are 85 degrees or higher, most of the water evaporates before hitting the ground. This is Watering on windy days prevents water from reaching its intended target.

Plant a low-water lawn alternative

Low-water lawn alternatives are becoming increasingly popular in water-scarce climates like California and Arizona. While initial installation costs can be expensive, artificial lawns offer the benefits of real grass without any need to water. Another option is to plant grass-like ground covers like clover, creeping thyme and buffalo grass that stay green, can handle minor foot traffic and require little to no water.

About the Experts

Joe Churchill is a Senior Turf Specialist with Wisconsin-based Reinders, a major distributor of lawn care products in the Midwest. He has over 25 years of experience in the turfgrass industry, is certified in Turfgrass Management with a B.A. in Geography and Horticulture from the University of Minnesota.
Ryan Mange is a Lawn/Plant Health Manager at CMS Landscaping, a full-service lawn care and irrigation company in Holyoke, Massachusetts. He is also an International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) Certified Arborist.

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10 Weeds With Purple Flowers

Laurie M Nichols — Wed, 30 Apr 2025 16:04:34 +0000

Burdock

With large, rough-textured leaves, burdock has distinctive, fast-growing foliage and pretty purple or pink flowers that look like thistles. The flowers later turn into burrs that cling to animals and clothing, helping the plant to spread prolifically. Growing to 4 to 5 feet tall in a single season, burdock is “considered invasive in North America, especially in the Pacific Northwest and Midwest,” Singh says. Manual removal is the best way to control burdock in your garden.

Fleabane

Fleabane resembles miniature daisies with their small purple, pink or white petaled flowers with yellow centers and long, narrow pointed leaves. Fleabane can be found in fields and roadsides, where it can rapidly spread and form clusters, especially in full sun. While not overly aggressive, fleabane will need management in a garden setting to control its spreading habit.

Besides its pretty purple flowers, fleabane can also be used as a bug repellant. “The leaves release compounds that are believed to help keep unwanted insects at bay,” Singh says. “It has been used to deter pests, including fleas (thus the name).”

Wild Violet

A low-growing ground cover, wild violet has heart-shaped leaves and small purple or white flowers. Violet can be quite invasive in lawns and garden beds. “Since they are perennials and readily produce large amounts of viable seed, these plants can become problematic and remain that way for quite a while if not managed early on,” Schmitz says. “Control can be difficult, depending on your comfort level with using chemicals.” I’ve found broadleaf weed killer to be the most effective method for controlling wild violet in my lawn.

Purple Deadknettle

Purple deadknettle produces small purple flowers and jagged, heart-shaped leaves that emerge from a single, central stem. Part of the mint family, it is a low-growing plant of 2 to 8 inches. One of the earliest plants to emerge in the spring, purple deadknettle is also an important food source for pollinators. “These plants are easily controlled via hand weeding in beds and rarely become an issue in turf because they are intolerant of mowing heights,” Schmitz says. “If you can tolerate them early in the season, it wouldn’t be a bad thing to let the bees have their fill before pulling these plants as other flowers come into bloom.”

Chicory

Often found in fields, meadows and along roadsides, chicory can be an attractive addition to a wildflower garden as well. Drought-tolerant and low-maintenance, it has delicate stems with purplish-blue, daisy-like flowers.

Chicory is considered an invasive plant in parts of the U.S. and can quickly take over if not carefully managed. “This stuff appears all over the place here in Maryland, where I live,” Singh says. “I see it pop up in different areas of my yard, near the driveway and along the road throughout the state.” Chicory also has medicinal properties and can be used as a coffee substitute.

Creeping Speedwell

This fast-growing ground cover produces small, purplish blue flowers on delicate stems. The opposite-oriented leaves have a rose-bud appearance on new growth and can be an attractive addition to a garden. Considered invasive in some states, creeping speedwell can become problematic if not closely tended to. It is very hardy and drought-resistant, and will grow in large patches reaching 3 feet wide.

Heal-all

Heal-all produces tall, cone-shaped clusters of small, purple or pink flowers on the top of single stems with oval, serrated leaves. A low-growing plant, the flower stems stand a bit taller than the foliage, at 6 to 12 inches. An attractive addition to gardens, Heal-all is a spreading ground cover that will need to be managed to prevent a takeover. “If left unchecked, this plant can form masses of plants and stolons stretching out along the ground. It can be pulled by hand, but it is a laborious task,” Schmitz says. “Chemical applications are able to control this plant rather effectively.”

Comfrey

With thick foliage consisting of spear-like, broad leaves, comfrey can be quite a presence in a garden, reaching heights of 2 to 4 feet. The real draw, however, is the clusters of drooping, bell-shaped purple, blue or pink flowers. If you want to add this to your pollinator garden, it will reach full size in a single season. However, it can be difficult to manage once established. Comfrey can thrive in less than ideal soils, and is drought-tolerant due to its deep tap taproots so it can be difficult to remove.

Aster

Another weed with purple flowers that is great for pollinators, asters produce small, star-shaped purple or white petaled flowers with yellow centers. They have slender, delicate leaves and stems with a clumping growth habit and can grow 2 to 4 feet tall. While not a rapid grower, once established Aster will spread through underground rhizomes. However, aster is a manageable plant in gardens, only requiring occasional splitting and cutting back.

Ground Ivy

Also known as Creeping Charlie, this opportunistic ground cover is commonly found in lawns and disturbed soil. Ground ivy produces small, purplish blue flowers and has foliage that mimics the look of clover. “It has the same square stems and attracts pollinators like other mints do, but there are few other redeeming qualities about this plant,” Schmitz says. “It crawls across the ground, rooting as it goes, creating an insidious sprawling mass of vines.” Manual removal and targeted broadleaf herbicide applications are the best methods to control this weed in beds and lawns.

About the Experts

Samuel Schmitz is a full-time faculty instructor in the Horticulture Department at Triton College in Illinois. He was formerly Ground Operations Supervisor for Ball Horticultural Company for 16 years.
Trisha Singh is the Vice President of Product at Garden for Wildlife, a program run by the National Wildlife Federation, which encourages wildlife-friendly gardening spaces. Trisha is a wildlife biologist who enjoys native plant gardening and helping to support others in their native gardening pursuits.

Sources

Clemson College of Agriculture, Forestry and Life Sciences, “Heal-all“

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Here’s How Much Water Your Grass Really Needs

Gemma Johnstone — Mon, 28 Apr 2025 19:31:53 +0000

Before I started learning about landscaping, I always thought the more the merrier was a good mantra when considering how much to water my lawn. However, overwatering can be as much of a problem as underwatering for turfgrasses, both leading to yellowing and other lawn health issues.

I spoke with two turfgrass experts to understand how much to water lawns to keep them looking lush and what factors influence watering frequency and volume.

How Much Should I Water My Lawn?

“Most lawns require about 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation,” John Kaminski, Associate Professor of Turfgrass Management in the College of Agricultural Sciences at the Pennsylvania State University, explains. Also, it’s best to water deeply and slowly once or twice a week rather than a light daily watering, which won’t support the development of deep grass roots.

However, while this is a helpful guide, the optimal amount and frequency depend on various factors.

What Factors Influence How Much To Water My Lawn?

Grass species, soil composition and seasonal conditions all play a part in how much to water your lawn.

Lawn type

The species of turfgrass you select can influence how much you water your lawn at different times of the year. “Cool-season grasses (like Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue) tend to need more water during hot, dry summers,” Kaminski says. “Whereas warm-season grasses (like bermudagrass or zoysiagrass) are more drought-tolerant, but still benefit from consistent moisture in peak summer.

Lawn age

A newly seeded lawn requires more frequent, shallower watering than an established lawn.

Season

Slow, deep watering once or twice a week is usually ideal during the summer months. “This approach encourages grass to develop a deeper root system, making it more resilient to heat and drought,” Kaminski says. He recommends allowing the water to penetrate at least 6 to 8 inches into the soil. “In spring and fall, when temperatures are cooler, you can usually cut back on watering unless it’s particularly dry,” he says.

Soil composition

Fast-draining sandy soils may need more water, more regularly than slow-draining clay soils, which hold moisture for longer.

Other environmental conditions

While you would expect to give more water in hot, dry regions, it’s not just temperatures that affect the rate of water required for your lawn.

“The most important [environmental] conditions are radiant energy (sunlight), atmospheric vapor pressure (relative humidity), temperature, wind movement, and available soil moisture,” Grady Miller, professor and extension turf grass specialist, explains. “Minimal water is used under dark, cloudy days with high relative humidity, low temperatures, and little to no wind.”

You need to provide the most water for your lawn during bright sunny spells with low relative humidity, high temperatures and moderate to high winds.

How Much Should I Water a Newly Seeded Lawn?

When watering new grass seeds, you need to do this frequently and shallowly. This ensures even moisture on the soil surface, allowing the seeds to germinate and establish roots. “[Watering] 2 to 3 times per day for the first couple weeks helps prevent the seedbed from drying out,” Kaminski says. “Once the seedlings emerge and begin developing roots, you can gradually reduce the frequency and increase the depth of watering to encourage deeper root growth.”

Signs You Are Underwatering Your Lawn

While yellow or brown patches on your lawn are well-known signs that it isn’t getting enough water, it’s good to look for earlier signs you are underwatering. That allows you to remedy things before you need to fix a patchy lawn.

Kaminski suggests looking for subtle signs of wilting and discoloration. “Grass blades that turn a dull bluish-green or begin to curl are often moisture-stressed,” he says.

He also recommends the “footprint test.” “If your footprints stay visible on the lawn for more than a few minutes, it’s a sign the grass isn’t springing back and may need water.”

What Are The Signs I Am Overwatering My Lawn?

Signs of an overwatered lawn can be similar to an underwatered one—in that it can also turn yellow and develop bare patches. However, it can also be more soggy-looking and weed or fungi-infested. Plus, a layer of thatch can develop more rapidly, as the excess water prevents the soil and grass from effectively breaking down the plant material buildup.

Kaminski says you might also see water run off onto paths and driveways, as your soggy lawn can’t absorb more moisture effectively.

Tips To Avoid Overwatering a Lawn

Overwatering is one of the most common lawn mistakes. Follow these tips to prevent this from causing shallow root growth, disease development and water wastage.

Install a rain sensor or smart irrigation controller: Kaminski explains that these adjust water amounts to account for weather changes.
Use a rain gauge: This allows you to measure how much water your lawn is receiving.
Check your soil: “If it feels soggy or water is pooling, dial it back,” Kaminski says.
Water early in the morning: Your lawn is active at this time and will absorb the water it needs. Any excess can evaporate off during the hotter part of the day.

About the Experts

John Kaminski, PhD, is an Associate Professor of Turfgrass Management in the College of Agricultural Sciences at the Pennsylvania State University.
Grady L. Miller, PhD, is a Professor and Extension Turfgrass Specialist in the Crop and Soil Sciences Department at North Carolina State University.

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Lawn Care Playbook: How To Supercharge Your Yard This Season

Laurie M Nichols — Tue, 22 Apr 2025 21:21:41 +0000

Taking care of a lawn and yard for the first time can be exciting, especially for new homeowners. However, the lack of necessary tools and know-how can be a challenge. This was me when I bought my first home. I had always rented and knew nothing, and I didn’t have any lawn tools. At first, I felt a bit overwhelmed, but with each season, I gained more confidence, knowledge and tools.

If you’re new to lawn care, don’t panic. It’s completely normal to start without all the answers. Read on for our beginner’s lawn care guide, featuring expert advice from three professionals: Joe Churchill from Reinders, Matt Cameron from CMS Landscaping and Tylor Harrington from Berkshire Turfgrass Specialists.

Tools and Materials

When starting out with lawn care, you’ll need a few basic tools.

Lawnmower: Push mowers are great for small lawns, while a ride-on tractor is better for large ones.
String trimmer: Use a string trimmer for the edges of the lawn. Electric, battery, and gas-powered options are available.
Rake: Garden rakes are great for cleaning up leaves and debris from the lawn. For a splurge, pick up a leaf blower.
Lawn spreader: Used to spread fertilizers, herbicides and grass seed, lawn spreaders are frequently used throughout the lawn care season.
Hose: An indispensable tool with a myriad of uses, a high-quality hose is worth the extra cost.
Sprinkler: Invest in a sprinkler or two (or more, depending on the size of your lawn). There are lots of types to choose from.”I can’t say one sprinkler type is better than others,” Churchill says, “but make sure to match the sprinkler to your lawn’s size and shape.”
Aerator: You’ll want to aerate at least once a season. Consider renting one from your local hardware store.
Protective gear: Don’t forget personal protective items like gloves, hearing protection and protective eyewear.

Prepping for Spring and Summer

In the spring, clean up debris or leaves left from the winter months, then fertilize and add pre-emergent herbicides. Thin or bare spots can be overseeded in the spring, but “if you’re seeding in the spring, seed will always emerge slower,” Churchill says, noting it may need a bit more attention as a result. Water regularly during the summer, continue weed management efforts and aerate the soil.

Seeding

Spread seed in the spring or fall, not during the summer. Always choose grass seed appropriate for your climate. Rake to loosen the soil, and spread the seed evenly with a lawn spreader. Gently rake the seeds into the soil, then water regularly to keep the seed moist but not soggy for a few weeks.

Mowing

Keep mower blades sharp by sharpening once or twice a season. Set the cutting height of your mower to between 3 to 4-in. for cool season grasses or 2 to 3-in. for warm-season grasses.

Alternatively, you can follow Cameron’s “1/3” rule, which means to only cut 1/3 of the blade off when you mow. He also recommends mulching clippings instead of bagging them to return nutrients to the soil.

Watering

Aim to water approximately twice a week, preferably in the morning. “Try to stay away from watering during the midday when ambient temps are hot, and it may be windy,” Churchill says. Aim to give your lawn 1 to 1 1/2-inches of water per week, but know that this amount can be adjusted. “There are many factors that determine if and when your lawn needs water,” Churchill says, including daytime temperatures, lawngrass types and recent rainfall amounts.

Fertilizer

Pick the right fertilizer for your lawn type, then spread it evenly with a lawn spreader. In cooler climates, fertilize in the spring and fall. In warmer climates, add fertilizer in the late spring or summer. Always read the directions and follow them carefully. Overfertilizing can kill your lawn or lead to yellow spots. Time it so you spread fertilizer right before a rain, or water thoroughly immediately after.

Crabgrass and Weeds

Regular weed management promotes a healthier lawn and helps keep weeds under control. “A strong stand of turf will compete with weeds,” says Harrington, preventing weed germination. Crabgrass, which appears in late spring or early summer, can be prevented with a pre-emergent herbicide in mid-spring. Broadleaf weeds like dandelions, clover, and chickweed should be treated with herbicide in spring. Grassy weeds are best managed by manual removal and targeted herbicides.

Brown Patches

Brown grass indicates dead grass, but identifying the cause is key to fixing it.

Pet urine: Dilute urine spots with hose water to prevent brown patches.
Improper watering: In dry weather, water deeply weekly.
Fungal issues: Treat brown patches caused by fungus, which can occur from overwatering with a fungicide.
Pests: Grubs in the soil can stress your lawn and lead to brown patches, but can be treated with grub killer.
Lawn clippings: “Excess clippings and debris can create problems like thatch buildup or dead spotting,” Cameron says, so only mow dry grass and bag long clippings.

Once brown patches are remedied, rake dead grass and reseed in the fall.

Fall and winter maintenance

In the fall, rake and remove fallen leaves from your lawn before winter. Rent an aerator and aerate the entire lawn, which Cameron touts as one of the most important lawn care practices. Don’t forget to overseed and water in the fall as well, to help your lawn emerge healthy and strong in the spring.

About the Experts

Joe Churchill is a Senior Turf Specialist for Reinders, a major distributor of lawn care products throughout the Midwest. Churchill is certified in Turf Management and has over 25 years of experience in the turfgrass industry.
Tylor Harrington is the owner and operator of Berkshire Turfgrass Specialists. He has a degree in Turfgrass Management from University of Massachusetts Stockbridge School of Agriculture. He worked grounds keeping in professional sports (mostly baseball) before moving back home to Dalton, Massachusetts to open his business.
Matt Cameron is the owner of CMS Landscaping, a full-service lawn care and irrigation company in Holyoke, Massachusetts. Matt has 15 years of landscaping experience.

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12 Weeds That Are Actually Attractive

Laurie M Nichols — Fri, 18 Apr 2025 17:23:19 +0000

Mullein

“Notable for its fuzzy leaves and large flower stalks, mullein plants grow up to 7 feet tall,” DeJohn says. “The small yellow flowers on this dramatic plant are a good nectar source for pollinators.”

Found throughout the United States, mullein often grows along roadsides, parking lots and fences or any other neglected, well-drained soils. While great for pollinators, it is considered invasive as it is a prolific seed producer, so you’ll want to manage the area closely to contain spreading.

Chicory

Native to Europe, this woody, perennial plant has long been established in the U.S. and is considered invasive in some states. However, it is an attractive weed, producing “beautiful blue flowers on stalks reaching up to 4 feet tall,” DeJohn says. It attracts and supports pollinators throughout its long blooming season from mid-summer through fall.

In addition to its pretty flowers and pollinator benefits, “chicory is known for its medicinal uses and use as a coffee substitute,” Singh says. Chicory will self-seed, but is not overly aggressive, so limited control efforts should keep it contained.

Creeping Buttercups

Often found in lawns, fields and forest edges, Creeping Buttercups are a low-growing leafy weed that produces bright yellow flowers. “Creeping buttercup makes an attractive ground cover, especially in areas with moist soils,” DeJohn says. However, this variety is native to Europe and can be aggressive, spreading more than 40 sq. ft. in a single year. Singh suggests planting less invasive, native varieties like Early Buttercup (Ranunculus fascicularis) with its “beautiful, yellow flowers.”

Yarrow

“Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium) is native to North America and has great benefits for pollinators,” Singh says. Growing 1 to 3 feet tall, this attractive weed has feathery foliage and clusters of small, flat-topped flowers. However, “some yarrows are aggressive growers and will take over a garden,” DeJohn says. “If you want to plant yarrow, look for cultivated varieties that are more ‘well-behaved.'” Once planted, yarrow can achieve its full height within a single growing season.

Burdock

Producing interesting clusters of spiky, purple flowers that look like thistles, burdock grows in two stages. The first year it establishes roots and produces limited vegetation and flowers. The second year it sends up a tall flowering stalk that can reach 8 feet in height. It’s a prolific re-seeder and is “considered invasive in North America, especially in the Pacific Northwest and Midwest,” Singh says. Remove it entirely from your yard or cut it back before it seeds to prevent it from taking over.

Scarlet Pimpernel

A low, spreading ground cover, Scarlet Pimpernel is often found growing in fields, meadows or roadsides. This attractive weed has thin, leggy stems, bright green foliage and vibrant red and orange flowers. It grows quickly, able to generate a thick mat that can outcompete native plants. “Many weeds we see in our yards, along the roadside, and in naturalized areas are not native to North America,” Singh says. “Over time, species imported from Eurasia for their ornamental value broke the bounds of where they were planted and spread uncontrollably.” This is the case with Scarlet Pimpernel, as it is very adaptable, fast-growing and a prolific re-seeding plant that will need close attention in the garden.

Goldenrod

“With numerous species native to North America, goldenrod produces show-stopping plumes of yellow flowers that attract pollinators,” DeJohn says. Often found along roadsides and in fields, goldenrod grows quickly, reaching heights of 6 to 7 feet within a season or two. Often mistaken for ragweed, as the two bloom at the same time, goldenrod is “a keystone species with huge benefits for a wide range of pollinators,” Singh says. Native to North America, goldenrod is not considered invasive and will not overpower other plants in your yard.

Milkweed

Milkweed is a tall, attractive plant that produces clusters of small, brightly colored flowers. While not typically a cultivated plant, native milkweed “is an essential host plant for monarch butterfly caterpillars,” Singh says. “It’s the only species Monarchs will lay their eggs on, so it’s critical to plant milkweed to save this species from extinction.” When planted in full sun and well-draining soil, milkweed can grow to 6 feet or more, producing flowers within a few seasons of being planted. “Some of the best choices for supporting monarchs are common milkweed, swamp milkweed, butterflyweed, and showy milkweed,” DeJohn says. Avoid tropical milkweed, which is considered invasive and problematic for Monarchs.

Queen Anne’s Lace or Wild Carrot

A fast-growing plant found in disturbed soil along roadsides, fences and forest edges, this attractive weed produces clusters of delicate white flowers with feathery leaves. Able to grow and flower in a single season, Queen Anne’s Lace is native to Europe and can be difficult to contain once established. “It’s considered invasive in many regions because it can outcompete native species,” Singh says. “There is a native version, American Wild Carrot (Daucus pusillus), which appears in the southern U.S. and has smaller flowers than the European species,” Singh says.

White Clover

This low-growing ground cover, native to Europe and Central Asia, produces white thistle-like flowers with small, triplet leaflet leaves. White clover has a long blooming season, from late spring to fall, and is a prolific pollinator attractor. It’s often used a lawn alternative as well. “[It] can be used in grass mixes because, as a legume, it fixes nitrogen and therefore needs little to no nitrogen fertilizer,” DeJohn says. Singh suggests trying native species as ground cover instead. “A few examples include bigleaf aster, common blue violet and side oats grama grass,” Singh says. Clover will spread but is not aggressive, so it will not need strict attention in lawns and gardens.

Wild Roses

Unlike cultivated roses, wild roses grow unassisted in forests and fields and along roadsides in disturbed soil. “There are several species of roses native to North America, but they might not be what come to mind when we think of a bouquet of roses or a rose bush,” Singh says. Wild roses have smaller flowers than cultivated species, and blooms can be solitary or in small clusters. While an attractive weed, “they are very invasive and should be removed, if possible,” DeJohn says. Many spread through underground suckers, quickly overtaking other vegetation.

Fleabane

A wildflower found in fields, meadows and roadsides across central and eastern North America, Fleabane can also migrate into gardens and lawns. Producing small, daisy-like flowers that bloom from late spring to fall, fleabane has also been long used to deter pests, like fleas. “The leaves release compounds that are believed to help keep unwanted insects at bay,” Singh says. With a central yellow disc and petals of white, pink or lavender, this attractive weed can crowd out other plants but is easy to manage with manual pulling.

About the Experts

Suzanne DeJohn is a horticulturist at KidsGardening, a national non-profit organization. Since 1982, KidsGardening supports educators, families and caregivers with grant funding, original educational resources, inspiration, and community to get more kids learning through the garden.
Trisha Singh is the Vice President of Product at Garden for Wildlife, a program run by the National Wildlife Federation, which encourages wildlife-friendly gardening spaces. Trisha is a wildlife biologist who enjoys native plant gardening and helping to support others in their native gardening pursuits.

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Lawn Care Confessions: Unfiltered Truths & Trade Secrets Behind Perfect Lawns

Karuna Eberl — Thu, 17 Apr 2025 19:05:37 +0000

At one point in his career, lawn care expert Ryan Waltz was tasked with maintaining golf courses for the Professional Golfers’ Association of America’s (PGA) tour events. It was a monumental task, which often started at 2:30 a.m. Every aspect needed to be perfect, from making sure the mowing stripes on the tee boxes pointed in the correct direction to timing the irrigation system precisely down to the second.

“Every angle of turf care had to work in tandem to make these events what they were, both for the players and aesthetically for the audiences watching on TV around the world,” he says.

Luckily, creating an enviable lawn at home is a lot less stressful, but it still requires knowing the fundamentals of a lawn ecosystem. Think of the challenge as conducting a symphony, where instruments combine to create a lush and vibrant experience. But instead of violins and tubas, your tools are water, soil conditioning, nutrition, aeration, weed control, mowing, timing and especially passion.

“Maintaining a home lawn should never require you to wake up at 2:30 a.m., but it may require you to spend a little extra time in the garage sharpening those mower blades a couple times a year to keep a clean cut,” says Walts.

It All Starts With The Soil

In years past, the main focus of lawn care fell on the grass, so fertilizers and mowing schedules were the priorities. But now we’re becoming increasingly aware that success actually starts with a healthy soil ecosystem — healthy soil fosters better growth, helps keep out weeds, cuts water usage in half and enhances nutrients, which can reduce fertilizer dependence by 40%.

“The real secret is what is happening under the surface,” says turf specialist Bennett Barrier. “Would you prefer to spend decades fighting yellow patches and weeds or establish a self-sustaining lawn?”

One of his clients in Dallas learned this lesson the hard way. Before consulting with Barrier, he had spent thousands of dollars on high-quality sod but neglected to address his soil. “The compacted clay suffocated the roots, and by the time he called us in, half the grass had died,” says Barrier. Barrier was able to revive the lawn using liquid aeration and organic composting. “Within months, the lawn recovered,” he says. “Proper soil prep is everything.”

It’s also vital to test your soil to assess its pH levels and nutrient deficiencies. Landscape designer Eduard Negodenko used this tactic to revive a large residential lawn that had gone unattended for years. The soil test prompted him to add lime and organic matter. He also aerated it, reseeded it with drought-tolerant grass and installed a drip irrigation system for water conservation.

“The natural process was long and slow,” says Negodenko. “I remember the client losing faith halfway through. But in months, the lawn finally transformed into a beautiful green space. Starting off with the soil is the biggest takeaway for me. No amount of mowing or fertilizer could ever give a sustainable, beautiful lawn without soil health being addressed.”

Tips For A Lush, Healthy Lawn From Turf Pros

Aeration

Negodenko, Walts and Barrier all emphasize that aeration is vital for reducing soil compaction, as it allows more water and nutrients to reach the grasses’ roots. Traditionally, aeration involves a machine that punches small holes into the soil, but Barrier says it’s also possible to aerate with a soil-conditioning spray.

“For larger areas, machine aeration is effective, especially when the soil is compacted,” says Barrier. “For smaller or more delicate lawns, a soil-conditioning spray can be equally beneficial without disrupting the yard.”

Negodenko further recommends following aeration with a mixture of organic compost and sand to improve drainage and bring in needed nutrients.

Pre-Emergent

Content creator Jordan Netzel, aka “The Lawn Tools,” says his No. 1 tip is to use pre-emergent to prevent weeds. “Preventing the weeds from popping up in the first place is a lot easier than trying to kill them after the fact, specifically with crabgrass,” he says. (Many experts recommend avoiding products with glyphosate, however, which harms bees and natural ecosystems.)

Proper Mowing

Negodenko says most homeowners make the mistake of cutting grass too short, which weakens lawns by making them more susceptible to weeds and diseases. For most grass species, he recommends a height of three inches.

Emerging trend: electric lawn equipment. “I see a lot of people being really bitter about battery equipment, but I like how quiet it is and I love how low maintenance it is,” says Netzel. “My ah-ha moment was after I had been using electric trimmers and found myself extremely annoyed with how loud my neighbor’s gas string trimmer was.”

Adequate Watering

Many lawn enthusiasts don’t realize that it’s better to water deeply and less frequently, which helps roots grow deeper, says Negodenko. Also, beware of inconsistencies in your irrigation system, which could cause overwatering in some areas and underwatering in others.

Emerging trend: smart irrigation systems. These new, nifty devices monitor soil moisture, weather and soil type, then adjust irrigation accordingly. They save money, plus EPA studies have shown that they can save up to 50% on water use, says Barrier. “That is quite a lot, especially for areas experiencing drought or water restrictions,” he says.

Organic Fertilizers

Walts recommends regularly applying slow-release, eco-friendly soil treatments like compost or organic soil amendments to improve soil health and make grass more resilient. Organic fertilizers are gentler on the environment, reducing runoff into waterways while promoting healthy soil. A common mistake is over-fertilizing with chemical fertilizers, which can lead to nutrient overload, polluting the environment and harming beneficial insects.”

Organic fertilizers are also trending in commercial lawn care, says Negodenko. “There’s a move towards less chemical fertilizers and pesticides treatment, with a growing percentage of lawn care enthusiasts going for organic alternatives of compost tea or neem oil for that healthy lawn,” he says.

Probiotics

A milestone new trend is soil probiotics, says Barrier. These combinations of fungi and bacteria improve soil health by making nutrients more available and helping with water retention. One study showed they enhance drought tolerance by 30%, a big plus with increasingly erratic rain patterns. Plus, they lessen the need for synthetic fertilizers, so they’re better for the environment and overall soil health, he says.

“Smart irrigation systems and probiotics are areas where we’re seeing a real positive, exciting change in the industry,” says Barrier. “Probiotics are a newer trend, but their benefits are becoming increasingly obvious as more research is done.”

LawnTok

Want more lawn ideas? Try using LawnTok for helpful solutions, says Negodenko. “LawnTok is propagating knowledge and excitement about lawn care for most DIY enthusiasts,” he says.

For A True Show-Stopping Lawn, Think Beyond Grass

Creating a truly knockout lawn takes more than just grass, says Negodenko. Instead, aim for a yard that feels aesthetically whole, plus serves a purpose by including elements like pollinator-friendly gardens, water-efficient irrigation, xeriscaping and areas designed for outdoor living.

“Emerging trends in lawn care these days are influenced by sustainability and environmental responsibility,” he says, “effects that are beneficial not only to this planet but also to the increasing demand for low-maintenance landscapes.

Negodenko’s other pro-tips for achieving a well-rounded yard include:

Plant a diversity of plants for year-round interest, especially native species that are well-adapted to your climate, helpful to the ecosystem and require less maintenance. “With annuals and perennials, mixed with shrubs and ornamental grasses, your yard is guaranteed a splash of color and texture well into the winter,” he says.
Hardscaping, such as walkways, patios and garden borders, adds a refined feel to your yard and enhances its functionality. “Most homeowners stuff their yards with as many features as possible or place them completely ignoring flow and proportion,” he says. Just a well-designed path or even a simple stone border around flower beds can do so much to create the illusion of structure and visual interest.”
Create defined edges. “A crisp lawn edge and some nicely defined hedges will instantly transform your yard into having a well-manicured, professional quality, and ensure it becomes the star in the neighborhood,” he says.

Netzel’s advice for creating a show-stopping lawn is stripes. “A weed-free and fresh-cut lawn can look nice, but if there are stark lawn stripes, that’s what will turn heads,” he says. I take it to the next level by trying to incorporate different patterns to make my lawn look like plaid.”

If you want in on the stripes game, Netzel says the trick is to use a roller or something heavy on the mower that will push that grass over as you mow. Then, when you go in different directions, the grass will reflect the sun differently and appear to be different shades of green. “Stripes going toward and away from the sun show up the best,” he says.

Finally, keep in mind that creating the perfect lawn will require some trial and error, so have fun with the journey.

“In lawn care, Tiger, Phil and Rory are nowhere to be found, but there is still grass,” says Walts. “At home, it may not require the same level of intensive care as a golf course, but it still demands love and care to perform its best.”

About the Experts

Eduard Negodenko has been designing landscapes and providing lawn and garden expertise for more than seven years. He currently works at Avanti Landscaping in Toronto, Canada.
Ryan Walts is training manager and business coach at the fertilizer and weed control franchise Lawn Squad. He has 17 years of experience in turfgrass science and maintenance.
Bennett Barrier is a turf specialist and CEO of DFW Turf Solutions.
Content creator and Toro ambassador Jordan Netzel and his brother are “The Lawn Tools.” Unless Netzel’s lawn looks like an MLB baseball field, he’s not happy.

Lawn Lords

Family Handyman — Wed, 16 Apr 2025 15:58:46 +0000

Weeds: Stop the Spread

What Are Spurge Weeds and How Do You Get Rid Of Them?

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Why Grass Won’t Grow Under Your Trees—and How to Fix It

Landscaping Wisdom

Why Is My Neighbor’s Lawn Greener Than Mine?

When Are You Too Old to Mow Your Own Lawn? Experts Weigh In

How Much Should You Pay Someone to Mow Your Lawn?

10 DIY Pond, Fountain and Waterfall Projects That Will Transform Your Yard

The post Lawn Lords appeared first on Family Handyman.

What Are Spurge Weeds and How Do You Get Rid Of Them?

Shifrah Combiths — Tue, 15 Apr 2025 13:41:43 +0000

Spring is the perfect time to prepare for everything summer brings. The warmer weather and later sunlight bring people outside of their homes and into their yards. From filling container gardens to laying new mulch, spring is kickoff season for yard work. Just a couple of weeks ago, here in east Tennessee, we started needing to mow our lawns and prepare them for summer.

A big part of lawn maintenance is weed control. As with so many things, prevention is key. This is particularly true with spurge weeds, which plague lawns all across the United States. Spurge weeds are hardy and produce thousands of seeds per plant once they flower, so it’s important to catch them before they sprout or very soon after.

Ahead, some more information about how to spot spurge weeds, how best to get rid of them, and what you can do to prevent them.

What Are Spurge Weeds?

Spurge weeds belong to the genus Euphorbia. They are fast-growing, invasive plants that are the bane of many Americans with lawns and lawn care routines. They thrive in poor, compacted soil and hot, dry environments, so they are especially prolific during summer months.

According to Julia Omelchenko, resident botany expert at plant care app Plantum, “There are several types of spurge, such as the spotted spurge (Euphorbia maculata), the ground spurge (Euphorbia prostrate) and the creeping spurge (Euphorbia serpens), to name a few. While these species slightly differ in appearance and growth patterns, they still have lots in common.”

Omelchenko details, “Spurge weeds form thick mats, smothering grass and cultivated plants,” and they’re particularly problematic because “if left unchecked, these highly resilient weeds can quickly spread over a large area.” Each plant can produce thousands of seeds that can germinate immediately, the next year, or stay dormant in the soil for years, according to the horticulture division of the University of Wisconsin-Madison. In addition, when the stems or leaves of spurge weeds are damaged, they release a milky white sap that irritates the skin and can be toxic to pets if swallowed.

Another characteristic of spurge weeds is their adaptability to various conditions and their rapid reproduction, both of which make them a huge nuisance to residential landscapes.

What Do Spurge Weeds Look Like?

Spurge weeds are easy to spot. They grow in areas like cracks in sidewalks, driveways or garden beds near concrete and have a distinct appearance that’s easy to distinguish from surrounding plants and grass.

Ryan Walts, turf management expert and training coach of lawn maintenance franchise Lawn Squad, describes spurge weeds as having “a distinctive appearance with small, oval leaves arranged in a whorled pattern around the stems. The leaves may have a reddish tint, especially in the summer heat. One of the key identifiers is the plant’s ability to form a mat-like structure on the ground, which can crowd out surrounding plants.”

Omelchenko adds, “During the growing season, spurge produces tiny green or pink flowers in the leaf axils. Despite their size, these flowers generate a large number of seeds, allowing spurge to spread rapidly. The seeds can be carried by wind, water, animals, lawnmowers, and even sticking to shoes.”

How To Get Rid of Spurge Weeds

Although spurge weeds are invasive and spread quickly, they don’t have to be hard to get rid of if you’re aware of some important points.

The first line of defense against spurge weeds, once they appear in your landscape, is weeding by hand. Targeting spurge weeds is easy because they’re easy to spot. Omelchenko explains how to hand-weed spurge weeds effectively: “Hand-weeding is a good option for handling small patches of spurge plants, provided you do it properly. It’s crucial to remove the root system, especially the taproot, to prevent regrowth. Make sure to wear gloves during the process to avoid contact with the irritating sap. The best time to remove spurge is when the soil is moist, as dry soil can cause the roots to break, leaving parts behind and allowing the weed to grow back.”

Herbicides can also be used to deal with spurge weed, but Omelchenko cautions, “Remember that herbicides can harm other garden plants or crops and can be toxic to humans and animals, so use them only as a last resort.” She adds that “herbicides are most useful when spurge appears in sidewalk cracks or garden paths rather than in garden beds or lawns.”

Walts is also a proponent of herbicides. “The most effective way to control spurge weeds is to apply the weed control product directly on the target area. Spurge is a broadleaf weed, so applying the appropriate post-emergent herbicide that targets broadleaf weeds is essential,” he says.

How to Prevent Spurge Weeds From Returning

Because spurge weeds are invasive, you should expect their yearly return to your garden. However, there are some preventive measures you can take.

Maintaining a healthy lawn is actually one of the best ways to discourage spurge weeds. Omelchenko explains, “Since spurge weeds thrive in compacted or poor soils, they tend to appear in lawns with thin or bare patches. That’s why proper lawn care, such as mowing, watering, and fertilizing, promotes thick and strong grass that can naturally outcompete weeds like spurge.” Walts concurs, saying, “Prevention begins with maintaining a healthy lawn. Aeration, fertilization, and overseeding can help create a dense lawn that makes it more difficult for spurge weeds to establish. A well-maintained lawn is a natural defense against many weed species, including spurge.”

In addition, pre-emergent herbicides and consistent hand-pulling can help keep spurge weed under control. However, it’s important that both of these methods be used before seeds germinate in order to maximize their effectiveness. “Consistent hand-pulling of any young spurge plants before they can produce seeds will help to limit their spread,” confirms Walts.

FAQs

Why are spurge weeds so hard to control?

Spurge weeds are difficult to control due to a few factors. They thrive in areas that are inhospitable to other plants, such as in compacted soil and in hot, dry environments, so it’s easy for them to grow. Their tap roots are hard to pull out, so even when they are pulled by hand, and you think you got them, they could re-emerge from the tap root remnant that’s still in the soil. In addition, they are self-seeding and can spread quickly if not kept in check.

Can I eliminate spurge weeds for good?

Spurge weeds are prolific, rampant, and invasive. You shouldn’t expect to get rid of them once and for all. Instead, you should prepare for them with a pre-emergent herbicide in early spring and then be vigilant to hand weed whenever you see new plants pop up so they don’t have a chance to germinate and spread. Also, stay on top of maintaining your lawn, since dense, healthy lawns with no bare spots help minimize spurge weed.

About the Experts

Julia Omelchenko is a botanist at AIBY Inc. and plant expert for the Plantum plant care app, where she has consulted on botany-related topics for five years. Her areas of specialization include phytopathology, plant physiology, and plant biochemistry.
Ryan Walts is a turf management and maintenance expert with a passion for turf science. He is also a training manager and business coach for lawn treatment franchise Lawn Squad.

Sources

Julia Omelchenko, botanist and plant consultant for plant care app Plantum
Ryan Walts, turf management expert and training manager at Lawn Squad

“University of Wisconsin-Madison Wisconsin Horticulture Division of Extension: Spotted Spurge, Chamaesyce (=Euphorbia) maculata“
“University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources: Spotted Spurge and Other Spurges” (2009)

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Why Is My Neighbor’s Lawn Greener Than Mine?

Karuna Eberl — Mon, 14 Apr 2025 20:25:19 +0000

For some, the quest to create the lushest, greenest lawn on the block is a serious summer-long competition. For others, it’s more about just having a comfortable, aesthetically pleasing place to chill outdoors. Regardless of personality type, at some point, we’ve all probably asked ourselves, “Why is the neighbor’s lawn greener than mine?”

The answer is multi-faceted. A lot of lawn care practices need to come together to create that masterpiece. But getting it right isn’t out of reach. Here’s what to know about why your neighbor’s lawn is greener than yours and how to troubleshoot what’s holding yours back.

Why Is My Neighbor’s Lawn Greener Than Mine?

Watering habits

In general, lawns benefit from deep watering, which encourages strong root growth. Landscape designer Eduard Negodenko recommends soaking the ground to 1.5 inches deep once a week in the early morning. Also, avoid night watering, as it can encourage fungal diseases.

“Irrigation systems also vary,” he says. “Perhaps your neighbor’s system blankets the entire lawn evenly with hydration, while your hand-held hose or sprinkler may miss some spots.”

Soil composition

Soil composition varies between yards due to home construction, past landscaping practices and natural soil variations. A soil test can determine the nutrient balance in your soil and whether your yard’s pH is too high (alkaline) or too low (acidic). The ideal range for most grasses is between 6.0 and 7.0, says Negodenko. “Anything above or below and your grass will struggle to absorb nutrients no matter how much fertilizer you apply,” he says.

Nutrients and fertilization

Lawns lacking nutrients may look pale or yellowish, says turf expert Ryan Walts. “Products containing nitrogen, iron, and/or ferrous sulfate often encourage green-up of the grass and provide a more immediate visual response,” he says. Also, a soil test will show what essential nutrients might be lacking, such as nitrogen, phosphorus or potassium.

The type of fertilizer can also affect lawn color. Quick-release fertilizers can green things up quickly but for a shorter time. “If the neighbor uses slow-release nitrogen-rich fertilizers every six to eight weeks in the growing season, the grass will always be green in color,” says Negodenko.

Shade

Most grass varieties do best with at least four to six hours of direct sunlight per day. If your lawn is less green “it could be that your neighbor’s yard is receiving a little more sun, or they chose a shade-tolerant variety like fine fescue or St. Augustine, while your yard struggles with a sun-loving species like Bermuda grass,” says Negodenko.

Weed control

Competition from weeds can also weaken a lawn. “If weeds such as crabgrass, dandelions or clover are stealing nutrients and water, your grass will have trouble maintaining health,” says Negodenko.

Mowing habits

“Most homeowners mow too short, thinking this will cause the lawn to need mowing less frequently, but this actually damages the lawn because it exposes more soil surfaces to sunlight,” says Negodenko. That ends up making it more susceptible to weeds.

The ideal mowing height varies by grass type, but in general, cutting it no shorter than three inches, as well as never cutting off more than one-third of the length of the grass blades, will keep your lawn healthy and help it develop deep roots that hold onto moisture.

Lawn care routine

Another reason your neighbor’s lawn might be greener than yours is their maintenance routine. “A lawn with a consistent care program, including aeration, overseeding and seasonal treatments, will generally stay greener and healthier throughout the year compared to one that doesn’t,” says Walts.

Tips To Make My Lawn Look Like My Neighbor’s

Just ask

“The best first step to make your lawn the same as your neighbor’s is to ask what they do,” says Negodenko. “They may give you a bit on the products they use, watering schedules or perhaps even mention hiring a professional lawn care service.”

Test your soil

Testing your soil for nutrients and pH levels is a game-changer. Buy an at-home kit or send a sample to a local extension services office to find out exactly what your lawn needs.

Water properly

Water each area of your lawn three mornings per week for 20 to 30 minutes. “Lawns that receive consistent, deep watering tend to be greener and healthier than those that don’t,” says Walts.

Prune trees and bushes

If shade is the problem, prune back tree branches or switch to a more shade-tolerant grass species.

Slow-release fertilize

Use a slow-release nitrogen-blend fertilizer to keep your grass fed continuously throughout the season, and fertilize at recommended intervals. “Proper fertilization helps grass make the most of nutrients and store energy, keeping it lush and resilient,” says Walts. “Regular applications of organic products can also improve drought tolerance.”

Mow higher

If you’ve been mowing too short, now is a good time to raise your blade to that healthier height, which will ultimately encourage strong root growth, says Negodenko.

Aerate

Walts recommends aerating your lawn annually during peak growing seasons to loosen compacted soil and improve water and nutrient absorption. “This can lead to stronger, deeper roots and an overall healthier lawn. ”

Pest control

Keep an eye out for insects and lawn diseases, as they can steal nutrients and weaken your grass, says Walts. “Implementing a pest control program can help maintain your lawn’s health and keep it looking as vibrant as your neighbor’s,” he says.

Limit traffic and wear

Reducing foot traffic, especially in high-use areas, can help prevent patchy or worn-down spots, says Walts. “If needed, create designated walkways or play areas to keep the grass in its best shape,” he says.

About the Experts

Eduard Negodenko has been designing landscapes and providing lawn and garden expertise for more than seven years. He currently work at Avanti Landscaping in Toronto, Canada.
Ryan Walts is training manager and business coach at the fertilizer and weed control franchise Lawn Squad. He has 17 years of experience in turfgrass science and maintenance.

The post Why Is My Neighbor’s Lawn Greener Than Mine? appeared first on Family Handyman.

The Best Time to Prune Trees for Healthy Growth

Laurie M Nichols — Mon, 07 Apr 2025 21:10:41 +0000

Mature, healthy trees are among the most valuable assets on any residential property. After all, a fifty-year-old tree cannot easily be replaced. However, despite their size and strength, trees still need care to stay healthy and look their best. Pruning is a crucial part of tree maintenance, and it’s important to know when to prune trees and when to leave them alone.

While there are general pruning guidelines, the ideal timing will vary based on tree species and age. In this article, learn the best pruning times for your trees with expert advice from two horticultural experts.

Why Prune Trees?

“In the woods, trees do fine without us. In our landscapes, some trees benefit from regular pruning,” Suzanne DeJohn, horticulturalist at KidsGardening.org, says. Pruning helps preserve tree health, control shape and ensure safety.Without pruning, trees can become overcrowded and develop fungus from poor airflow or become overgrown. Pruning also removes dangerous dead or overhanging branches that may fall and cause damage. Failing to prune fruit trees can lead to reduced fruit production and disease.

Tools Needed to Prune Trees

Safety gear: Wear safety glasses and protective gloves when pruning trees with hand tools.
Bypass pruners/pruning shears: Ideal for trimming suckers and thin branches up to 3/4 inch thick.
Loppers: Longer handles mean better leverage to cut thicker branches up to 2-inch thick.
Pruning saw: A pruning saw with a curved or straight blade is best for branches thicker than 2 inches.
Pole Pruner: “Pole pruners help reach higher branches,” DeJohn says. They feature an extendable pole with a pruning saw or shears at the end.

When To Prune Most Trees

Late winter or early spring is a good time to prune most trees, including deciduous, evergreen and fruit trees, as this is their dormant season. “Dormant pruning” reduces stress on the tree and helps it recover before new growth emerges.

For deciduous trees, remove crowded or crossing branches to improve airflow and prune to shape. “Never remove more than 20 to 25 percent of branches in one season,” Samuel Schmitz, horticulture professor at Triton College, says. On young trees, prune offshoots and secondary trunks to encourage a strong main trunk.

For evergreens, pruning will mostly consist of removing any dead or diseased branches. Dormant prune lightly over several seasons to shape.

Avoid pruning any trees in fall, as it can expose the tree to diseases or stimulate new growth that may not survive winter. However, “It’s fine to remove dead or diseased wood at any time,” DeJohn says.

When to prune fruit trees

“Most fruit trees should be pruned in late winter, after the coldest temperature have passed but before the buds begin to swell and growth begins,” DeJohn says. “Sometimes, fruit trees are also lightly pruned in summer.”

When to prune flowering trees

For spring-blooming trees, prune right after they finish flowering. “If you wait too long to prune, you’ll remove the buds that produce the next year’s flowers,” DeJohn says.

Summer-blooming trees can be pruned in late winter to early spring before new growth begins. “They produce their flowers on the current season’s growth, so you won’t be removing any flower buds at that time,” DeJohn says.

How Often to Prune Most Trees

This will vary depending on the age and species of tree, but a general rule of thumb is every three to five years for most deciduous trees. “Larger trees may need to be pruned only as needed to remove dead branches or those that pose a hazard,” DeJohn says. Established evergreens often remove dead branches on their own and need less frequent pruning. Consider consulting with a certified arborist for tree-specific pruning recommendations.

How often to prune fruit trees

Fruit trees benefit from annual pruning in the late winter or early spring to remove dead branches and encourage new growth, as well as a light pruning in the summer for shaping. “Winter is best to do any structural or hard pruning,” Schmitz says. “Training and minor pruning can happen year-round.”

How often to prune flowering trees

When young, consider pruning flowering trees each year.”Young trees benefit from pruning to help guide their growth to the shape we desire,” DeJohn says. Once established, prune flowering trees when necessary to maintain shape or thin, crowded or crossing branches.

Pruning Timeline Tips

When to prune trees throughout the year:

Prune most trees from late December to February. During this time, remove dead branches, thin canopies, shape young trees and prune summer-flowering trees.
From March to May, prune spring-flowering trees after they bloom.
Late spring to early summer is for light, aesthetic pruning or removing suckers.
Avoid pruning during the hot summer months through fall, as trees can become stressed or diseased.

About the Experts

Samuel Schmitz is a full-time faculty instructor in the Horticulture Department at Triton College in Illinois. He was formerly Ground Operations Supervisor for Ball Horticultural Company for 16 years.
Suzanne DeJohn is a horticulturalist at KidsGardening.org, a national non-profit organization providing support to youth garden programs since 1982. Suzanne formerly worked for the nonprofit National Gardening Association’s Education Department as a writer and program promoter.

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How Much Should You Pay Someone to Mow Your Lawn?

Casey Clark — Thu, 03 Apr 2025 14:43:37 +0000

Unless you live in a HOA community, then mowing the lawn is a responsibility that falls on you. While you could buy a lawnmower and trim it yourself, that can be time-consuming and difficult — perhaps you don’t own a lawnmower, or you don’t have the time or energy to trim it yourself. Luckily, there are people out there — both professional landscapers and non-professionals — who can do this service for you in a timely and efficient manner. This raises the question of how much to pay for lawn mowing.

Ahead, we spoke with a lawn mowing expert about how much to pay for lawn mowing and the factors to consider when it comes to finding someone to get the job done — here’s what he had to say.

How Much Should I Pay a Non-Professional to Mow My Lawn?

It’s likely that a teenager in the neighborhood may knock on your door if your grass is growing out and ask to mow your lawn. In some cases, an overeager teen might say they’ll do the whole thing for $20 — in that case, you found yourself a pretty good deal. If they don’t have a price in mind, Steve Corcoran, CEO of Lawn Love, says $30 is pretty average for a non-professional. For those larger lawns, you could bump that price up to $40 as a nice gesture.

Even though they may not be professional per se, they are doing work for you and deserve a tip, too, so don’t forget that — an extra $5 or $10 can go a long way, especially if they did a great job. You may even find that they come back to help shovel in the winter, too, so it’s a win-win, and you have someone you trust, too.

How Much Should I Pay a Professional to Mow My Lawn?

As you can imagine, paying a professional to mow your lawn will be more expensive. That said, you aren’t just paying them for their time but also their expertise.

“Professionals tend to have more in-depth or expansive knowledge about lawn care and landscaping, while non-professionals may just know how to mow lawns with a mower and their expertise ends at that,” says Corcoran. “Professionals also typically have more formal training and certifications.”

According to Corcoran, the overall average across the country for hiring a lawn mower is about $77 – with it going as low as about $30 for small yards and non-professionals or upwards of $250 for professionals and large yards.

Additionally, other factors can influence the cost, such as the size of your yard, its specific needs, average labor costs in your area, the time it takes to complete the job, how many people come out to do the job and more. “Where you live plays a big factor too; for example, it will cost more in southern California than in Mississippi,” Corcoran says.

When it comes to paying a professional lawn mower, flat rates are generally preferred over hourly rates. For those bigger yards and lawns, more than one professional may come out to do the job. In this case, an equal rate is expected for each individual and separate tips so everyone goes home satisfied.

Should You Tip a Landscaping Service for Mowing the Lawn?

Yes, similar to any other industry where someone else completes a service for you, a tip is customary. “The appropriate tip depends on the cost of the job, but the average tip for a single job is about $7,” says Corcoran.

You can’t go wrong with tipping 20 percent, just like you would at a restaurant or nail salon. If it’s super hot outside, then maybe tack on a few extra dollars to show your gratitude for the hustle and effort put in.

At the end of the day, having a well-maintained lawn is essential to making sure your home looks its best all year round (especially during the spring and summer months) and helps minimize the risk of pests such as ticks and fleas. Whether you opt for a professional landscaper to get the job done or a neighborhood teen, be sure to pay them appropriately and treat them with respect.

About the Experts

Steve Corcoran, CEO of Lawn Love; email interview, March 28, 2025.

The post How Much Should You Pay Someone to Mow Your Lawn? appeared first on Family Handyman.

When Are You Too Old to Mow Your Own Lawn? Experts Weigh In

Shifrah Combiths — Fri, 28 Mar 2025 14:49:22 +0000

Nothing compares to the first flush of spring with its warm breezes, blooming foliage, and sunny days. It’s also the time of year that regular landscaping must begin again, including mowing the lawn, which brings up the common question of what age to stop mowing the lawn.

For some older adults especially, mowing the lawn is a great opportunity to get some exercise while enjoying the sunshine — and a nicely shorn lawn afterward. But there’s a dark side to mowing the lawn. More than 80,000 people are hospitalized each year for lawn mower-related injuries, according to a 2006 study by Annals of Emergency Medicine (via Johns Hopkins Bloomberg School of Public Health).

Tragically, many of these injuries happen to children. However, lawn mower accidents are also prevalent among older adults who may not be as spry as they once were and who may be more susceptible to overexertion. This naturally leads to the question, “How old is too old to mow the lawn?”

A common response is to suggest that older adults simply not mow the lawn altogether, but experts say there is no specific age to stop mowing the lawn. Rather, being aware of the risks, taking steps to mitigate them, and being aware of one’s own health limits should be the deciding factor. Ahead, we break down advice from experts.

Risks of Mowing the Lawn

Whether you’re using a riding lawn mower or a push mower, mowing the lawn comes with a host of risks. According to the study published by the Annals of Emergency Medicine, “the most common injuries were caused by strikes from debris, such as rocks and branches, propelled by the mower’s spinning blades.” A study published in the National Library of Medicine found that the most common types of injuries were lacerations, fractures, and amputations. The most common injury locations were the wrist or hand and foot or toe.

Emergency medicine physician Jordan Kapper, whose background includes trauma, reveals that after 15 years in suburban and rural emergency departments, he’s witnessed every lawnmower injury imaginable. “The mechanism of injury that haunts our trauma bay [is] the classic ‘cleaning the mower deck’ maneuver,” Kapper says. “Just last month, I treated a young man and seasoned maintenance worker [that] lost three fingers. The blade had stopped visually, but the mower was still on, and once the grass/vine clog was gone, so were his fingers.”

While push lawnmowers are dangerous, riding lawnmowers can be too. Kapper explains, “Riding mower rollovers present a different problem entirely. The injuries typically involve crushing mechanisms — pelvic fractures, flail chest, pneumothoraces — often with delayed internal hemorrhage that becomes apparent only after the initial trauma survey.” Kapper highlights how age becomes a factor with these types of lawn mower accidents: “The age component here is important as well. When that machine starts to tip, you have approximately 1.5 seconds to dismount before physics takes over.” Older adults may not be able to move as quickly as they once could.

Cardiologist Matthew Segar adds, “The major risks of mowing the lawn include falls, musculoskeletal injuries from repetitive motions, worsening of respiratory conditions from grass allergens or mower emission, and heat-related illness. From a cardiology perspective, mowing the lawn in hot weather can cause strain on the heart.”

Kapper adds the following related to older adults and cardiac trouble when mowing the lawn: “The cardiac events we see follow a predictable pattern: deconditioned cardiovascular systems suddenly subjected to high-intensity and consistent exertion, peripheral vasodilation from heat exposure and a drive of many to ‘push through the pain until the job is done’ leads to cardiovascular catastrophe. This can mean heart attacks, deadly arrhythmias or simple heat exertion.”

In addition to the physical risks, lawn mower injuries have substantial financial implications. The same National Library of Medicine study found that mean emergency department charges were $2,482 per patient, while the mean inpatient charges were a whopping $36,987.

How Old Is Too Old to Mow the Lawn?

According to the Johns Hopkins Bloomberg School of Public Health, most lawn mower-related injuries occur in children under 15 and adults ages 60 and over. Science Direct reports, “Lawnmower injuries increase with age, with peaks in persons older than 59 years.”

With these statistics in mind, many may feel that older adults should simply stop mowing the lawn to minimize the risk of injury. But this would deprive older individuals of not only a worthwhile activity and an opportunity to be outside and even socialize, but could also lessen their chances of staying healthy and fit.

Kapper agrees. “What many safety articles miss,” he says, is that “deconditioning poses equal danger. I regularly admit patients in their 70s who’ve suffered falls simply walking across their living rooms because they’ve eliminated all physical activity from their lives. Their well-intentioned adult children banned them from yard work but provided no alternative activity to maintain functional strength.”

Rather than banning older adults from yard work, Kapper suggests the following: “My evidence-based recommendation isn’t typical. Beyond cardiovascular conditioning, I prescribe resistance training specifically targeting functional movements. Research from the geriatric literature demonstrates that maintaining grip strength and core stability dramatically reduces mortality across multiple domains. For lawn mower safety specifically, the ability to quickly generate force (to jump clear of a tipping mower) or maintain balance (on uneven terrain) directly correlates with prevention of severe injury.”

Segar agrees that there is no specific age at which to stop mowing the lawn. “The decision should be based on your individual health status and physical capabilities rather than chronological age,” he says.

Tips to Mow the Lawn Safely

Much of lawnmower injury prevention involves actions that those who are using the lawnmowers can control.

Kapper advises keeping a few general things in mind: “Mowing the lawn during cooler parts of the day, staying hydrated, and taking frequent breaks can help improve your heart health while mowing the lawn. It’s also important to know the signs and symptoms of overexertion. This includes chest pain, dizziness, and excessive fatigue. Using a self-propelled or riding lawn mower can also help reduce exertion.”

David Bishai, M.D., Ph.D., M.P.H., senior author of the study published in the Annals of Emergency Medicine, and associate professor in the Department of Population and Family Health Sciences at the Bloomberg School, recommends the following more specific safety measures.

Wear goggles, long pants and close-toed shoes with grip soles
Clear the yard of debris before mowing
Keep everyone from the yard while mowing
People with histories of chest, back or joint pain should reconsider mowing
Use care and wear protective gloves when servicing the mower or changing blades
Many injuries occur while lifting the mower—get help if needed
Never service the mower while it is running
Mow only in good weather conditions—avoid mowing in high-heat
Do not use a riding mower on steep hills or embankments
Do not carry passengers on riding mowers or tow passengers behind the mower

About the Experts

Jordan Kapper, M.D., is a distinguished Emergency Medicine physician and successful real estate investor. With a background in trauma, airway management, sepsis, stroke, and travel medicine, Dr. Kapper is a highly skilled and adaptable physician. He has trained at a level 1 trauma center and is board-certified in Emergency Medicine.
Matt Segar, M.D., is a board-certified cardiologist and is currently a cardiac electrophysiology fellow at the Texas Heart Institute, where he also completed his cardiology fellowship. Dr. Segar received his medical degree from the Indiana University School of Medicine and graduated from Internal Medicine residency at UT Southwestern Medical Center.

Sources

Johns Hopkins Bloomberg School of Public Health: “Injuries from Lawn Mowing Increase Nationwide” (2006).
Science Direct: “Lawnmower Injuries in the United States: 1996 to 2004” (2006).
National Library of Medicine: “Incidence, Distribution, and Cost of Lawn-Mower Injuries in the United States, 2006-2013” (2018).

The post When Are You Too Old to Mow Your Own Lawn? Experts Weigh In appeared first on Family Handyman.

Bring New Grass Seed To Life With These Watering TIps

Jenna Clark — Tue, 25 Mar 2025 15:43:58 +0000

You might not think about growing grass seed as gardening, but all the same principles apply. While soil, sunlight, and water are the essentials for gardening magic to happen, knowing how much of each element is needed is crucial – especially when it comes to watering. If you’ve been curious about how much to water new grass seed, you’ve landed at the right place.

We’ve asked gardening pros some questions about watering new grass seeds so you can spend less time researching and more time nurturing some beautiful grass. Ahead, horticulture extension specialists answer the question and provide insights on how much you should be watering new grass seed and how often; plus, they provide some best practices when it comes to watering new grass seed.

How Much To Water New Grass Seed

How much you should water your new grass seed varies depending on the grass’s growth stage. It is essential that the seedbed does not dry out during the germination period, which can be avoided by watering its top inch, explains Aaron Steil, a consumer horticulture extension specialist at Iowa State University.

As your new grass seed grows, you must provide more water during each irrigation session. You will know when it’s time for another irrigation session based on the moisture level, how much time has passed, the length of the grass, and how often it has been mowed. To make things easier, you can note the last time you watered your grass seed (or grass) and how long it has been since you sowed your grass seed on a calendar or note-taking application and go from there (we cover more about the timeline in the next section).

“The main concept is water deeply and not frequently— you want the roots to grow deeper into the soil and not remain at the surface as the roots go where the water goes,” explains Linda Langelo, a horticulture area extension specialist at Colorado State University. If you do not provide an adequate amount of water to your new grass seed, you risk the seedlings dying.

How much to water new grass seed can also depend on the type of watering tool used. If you’re watering a newly seeded area, Steil recommends using an overhead sprinkler, whereas spot sprinklers can be used for smaller seeding jobs and impact sprinklers for larger ones. With this in mind, Langelo adds that setting an automatic sprinkler for five minutes should be enough time to properly water your new grass seed during the beginning stages.

How Often To Water New Grass Seed?

According to Langelo, new grass seed should generally be watered two or three times daily during the beginning stages.

As your new grass seed germinates (typically within two to three weeks), the frequency with which you need to water the new grass seed will decrease from every day to every two or three days to twice a week to ultimately once per week, says Steil. He adds that you ideally should start by watering the seedbed multiple times per day for the first couple weeks until the grass has reached about two inches as this marks the time when you can start transitioning to a couple of times per week, and then ultimately once per week after your new grass has been mowed a couple of times.

Nonetheless, the weather influences the frequency, as warmer weather dries out the grass seed more quickly. “The warmer the weather, the quicker the grass seed will dry out and the more often you may need to water before the seed sends roots into the soil,” explains Langelo. “So, if the temperature is in the 80s, you might need to water four times a day as opposed to two or three.”

When To Stop Watering New Grass Seed

After initially planting your new grass seed, you’ll know when it is time to stop watering it if you notice any water runoff. Although it will always require moisture, you can stop watering your new grass seed as much as time progresses and your grass grows.

FAQ

Will fertilizer negatively or positively affect new grass seed?

Fertilizer can positively affect new grass seed when applied (if needed) after germination. If you find that your grass seed needs fertilizer, Langelo recommends waiting between six and eight weeks. “Remember, all the nutrients start out in the embryo of the grass seed. More fertilizer does not mean better growth; rather, proper sun exposure and watering benefit the seed initially,” Langelo says. That said, fertilizer may not always be needed and can be determined by completing a soil test.

When should you first mow new grass seed?

Langelo and Steil agree that you should first mow new grass seed once it is three inches. You don’t want it to get too long, as that can potentially cause issues while mowing. Langelo adds that it is generally a best practice to engage in your first mowing after four weeks and trim the grass down to about two inches. “Use a walk-behind push mower for the first mow, if possible,” advises Amanda Folck, an assistant extension educator of turfgrass management at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln.”Be steady on the first mow to prevent any immediate turns on the new grass area.”

About the Experts

Amanda Folck has served as the assistant extension educator of turfgrass management at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln since 2023. She is also a university faculty member within the Department of Agronomy and Horticulture.
Aaron Steil is a consumer horticulture extension specialist at Iowa State University with more than 15 years of industry experience. Before his current role he was an assistant teaching professor and assistant director of the on-campus Reiman Gardens.
Linda Langelo is a horticulture area extension specialist at Colorado State University. Before her role at the university, she served as the grounds supervisor at Turning Stone Casino and Resort and was in charge of ensuring that reseeding processes were properly carried out (which included overlooking the seed coverage within 30 days of watering). With more than 30 years of industry experience, she is a long-time member of Garden Communicators International and the American Public Garden Association.

Sources

Iastate.edu: “Watering Home Lawns“

The post Bring New Grass Seed To Life With These Watering TIps appeared first on Family Handyman.

10 Mushrooms Growing In Your Grass and What It Means

Laurie M Nichols — Mon, 24 Mar 2025 15:59:17 +0000

Button Mushroom (Agaricus bisporus)

Button Mushrooms, one of the most cultivated mushrooms globally, are prized for their taste and versatility. You’ll typically find them in stores with a smooth, grayish-white cap and short, sturdy stem. If left to mature in your lawn, the cap expands and develops small scales.

“Agaricus loves moisture, so it may pop up in your lawn after a big rain,” Bashian-Victoroff says. “These decomposer fungi are a critical part of a healthy soil environment, likely a sign that your soil is healthy and full of life!”

Parasol Mushroom (Macrolepiota procera)

Parasol Mushrooms have a flat, scaly and broad cap that can grow three to 10 inches wide. If left to mature, Parasol Mushrooms can grow three to 12 inches tall with a brown, rough-textured stem.

These mushrooms are edible but can easily be mistaken for poisonous specimens. You may find these growing under trees in shady, moist areas of your lawn, and they are the fruiting bodies of a fungus in the soil.

Ringless Honey Mushrooms (Armillaria tabascens)

Golden-brown Ringless Honey Mushrooms often grow at the base of trees infected with Armillaria fungus, and often form clusters of one to two feet. “Each individual mushroom within the cluster is typically rather small, with caps ranging from about two to five centimeters across and stems about three to five centimeters tall,” Bashian-Victoroff says. They may also sprout on decaying tree roots in your lawn.

Although they only live for about a week, to remove, “cut or pry the stems up, place the mushrooms into a non-porous bag and then into the trash,” Bashian-Victoroff adds.

Shaggy Ink Cap (Coprinus comatus)

When immature, Shaggy Ink Caps (or Lawyers’ Wigs) have tall, grayish-white caps that resemble a bullet, with upturned scales and a smooth stem. Often found in lawns, these mushrooms only live about 24 hours. Once past maturity, Shaggy Ink Caps transform into a black ink-like substance full of spores.

“While these fungi are a good sign of healthy soil, they may leave behind an inky liquid in your grass. If you would like to avoid this (which some might find unsightly), be sure to remove the mushrooms while they are still immature before they start to deliquesce,” Bashian-Victoroff says.

Lawnmower’s Mushroom (Panaeolus foenisecci)

Also known as the Haymakers Mushroom, you’ve most likely seen this small, brown mushroom in your lawn at some point. Prolific in yards across North America, Lawnmower’s Mushrooms often grow in clumps in grass. Depending on its stage of maturity, the cap will be conical or bell-shaped when young and flat when mature, with a short, smooth stem. If ingested, these can cause gastrointestinal upset.

Fairy Bonnet (Coprinellus dissemanetus)

Fairy Bonnets, typically found in forests growing on rotting logs, can also appear in grass— but only if there’s decaying wood present. If your lawn has rotting tree roots or stumps, these mushrooms are likely to show up. Easily identified by their delicate gray caps, Fairy Bonnets often grow in tight, prolific clusters. They’re short-lived and delicate but will likely continue to proliferate unless areas of rotting wood are removed from the lawn. They are not poisonous.

White Dunce Cap (Conocybe lactea)

This small, white mushroom often pops up in lawns after a rainfall. They are very delicate and shrivel up and disappear by afternoon during hot, sunny weather. “White Dunce Caps aren’t harmful to grass, but they can indicate that your lawn is damp or has a high level of decaying organic material,” Corbett says. “If you’re concerned, improve drainage and reduce excess organic matter to help manage their growth.” This mushroom is not edible and can be harmful to pets if ingested.

Stinkhorn (Phallus impudicus)

True to their name, Stinkhorn Mushrooms emit a pungent odor that is unmistakable once you’re familiar with it. “You’ll usually smell a stinkhorn before you see it,” Corbett says. “They have a nasty, foul smell that’s hard to miss.” They also have a distinct appearance, with a tall, phallic-shaped fruiting that often grows in gardens, mulch beds and leaf piles. Stinkhorns do not last for long, usually dying off in a day or two. They are not edible, and can be poisonous to dogs.

Yellow Fieldcaps (Bolbitius titubans)

Widespread throughout North America, Yellow Fieldcaps are named for their bright yellow caps during their initial growth phase. Very short-lived, these mushrooms only last a day or two, quickly morphing from yellow, bulbous caps to flat, gray caps. Yellow Fieldcaps thrive in well-fertilized lawns or compost piles, so their presence in grass suggests healthy soil with lots of nutrients and organic material. They are not considered poisonous.

Fairy Ring Mushroom (Marasmius oreades)

While visible above ground, Fairy Ring Mushrooms are actually an offshoot of a fungus living underground. Commonly found growing in a circle on lawns with a beige, bell-shaped cap and smooth stem, Fairy Ring Mushrooms are edible and generally harmless to lawns. Consider adding a balanced lawn fertilizer to quickly remove their presence from your grass if you choose.

About the Experts

Claudia Bashian-Victoroff is a fungal ecologist and research specialist at Holden Arboretum in Kirtland, Ohio. Bashian-Victoroff holds a Master of Science degree in Forest Pathology and Mycology from SUNY College of Environmental Science and Forestry.
Joyce Corbett owns Classic Courtyards in West Springfield, Massachusetts. She has over forty years of landscaping design and installation experience.

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Why Does This Hollywood Celebrity Hate Leaf Blowers?

noelle devoe — Tue, 18 Mar 2025 21:17:27 +0000

In a competition to determine the most mundane yard work a homeowner must do to upkeep their lawn, collecting leaves in the fall is up there fighting for the top spot. However, the task isn’t so mundane if you ask Indiana Jones and Thor: Ragnarok star Cate Blanchett. In fact, it’s the source of a decades-long grievance. See, Blanchett has some beef with one particular power tool homeowners use to take care of their falling leaves: leaf blowers. It’s not often we turn to Hollywood A-listers for their takes on lawn care, but this one is worth a listen.

Appearing in a March episode of the Subway Takes podcast with Kareem Rahma to promote her latest movie, Black Bag, the Oscar-winning actress filled listeners in on her hottest take, passionately explaining, “Leaf blowers need to be eradicated from the face of the Earth.” She continued: “The stupidity! Here’s the thing: It’s a metaphor for what’s wrong with us as a species. We blow shit from one side of our lawn to the other side, and then the wind is just gonna blow it back.”

One might argue that leaf blowers’ biggest benefit is the time it saves. It takes far longer (and more effort) to manually rake leaves than to blow them in the desired direction. However, that point probably would not move Blanchett, who claimed 30 minutes of leaf blower usage creates more pollution than driving a pickup truck from Texas to Alaska, which led to them getting banned in Washington, D.C. And clearly Blanchett does her research— that stat checks out according to a 2011 Edmunds study on leaf blower emissions.

Blanchett has been singing the same tune for well over a decade. Her well-documented hatred of leaf blowers dates back to 2007, when she first told W Magazine that leaf blowers “sum up everything that is wrong with the human race.” So, while you may disagree with her take on leaf blowers, you have to give her props for her consistency and passion. Watch her rage against leaf blowers in her “Subway Takes” segment below.

@subwaytakes Episode 310: Leaf blowers need to be eradicated from the face of the earth!! Feat Cate Blanchett 🚋🚋🚋🚋🚋 Hosted by @KAREEM RAHMA Created by Kareem Rahma and Andrew Kuo Shot by @Anthony DiMieri and Thomas Kasem Edited by Tyler Christie Associate producer @Ramy #podcast #subway #hottakes #subwaytakes #interview #nyc #opinions #cateblanchett #movies #films #leafblowers ♬ original sound – SubwayTakes

Sources

Edmunds: Leaf Blower’s Emissions Dirtier than High-Performance Pick-Up Truck’s, Says Edmunds’ InsideLine.com (2011)

W Magazine: “Queen Cate” (2007)

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Get Off The Grass With These Excellent Backyard Alternatives

Rebecca Wright Brown — Fri, 14 Mar 2025 22:05:43 +0000

Mulch Backyard

If you’re looking for lawn alternatives, why not a mulch backyard instead of a grass one? Mulch comes in a variety of materials, which allows for creative landscape designs using different textures and colors. It provides additional benefits as one of the alternatives to grass lawns such as moisture retention, weed control, protection against erosion, heat retention and protection of root systems.

If you’re landscaping your yard with features such as flower or rock gardens, mulch is ideal for creating pathways throughout the yard. There are several types of much,including wood chips, shredded bark, sawdust, pine needles and straw mulch. However, remember to replace the mulch on time.

Synthetic Grass Backyard

Synthetic grass, also known as artificial grass or turf, is viable as an alternative to grass lawns. The material has the same look and texture as natural grass. There are three main types worth considering: nylon, polyethylene and polypropylene. The amount of traffic the lawn receives will help determine the type of material best suited for your home. Polyethylene is soft, vibrant in color and resilient. Nylon is strong, allowing it to maintain its shape, and can withstand high temperatures. Polypropylene, while less costly, does not have the durability or resilience of the other two.

Gravel Backyard

If you’re intrigued by the idea of a mulch backyard instead of grass, but want an option that is less likely to attract bugs, consider landscaping gravel. There is a wide range of stone types to choose from such as crushed granite, stone pebbles, river rocks, decomposed granite, pea gravel.

Granite offers many advantages as a grass alternative including a wide variety of color and texture options, broad availability, a wide price range-perfect for any budget and durability. Stone-based materials do not attract bugs, don’t decompose due to the elements, and are long-lasting. One thing to consider however, is that over time, gravel will start to sink into the soil.

Clover Backyard

We’re not talking about the clover that’s taking over your lawn, we’re talking about a larger flowering variety that is far more at home in your garden. While you may have to protect it from hungry creatures, bees will love it. Just remember to plant it more like grass and treat it like a ground cover as an alternative to a lawn.

Lily Turf

Lily Turf grows well in full sunlight or deep shade in moderate regions and partial shade in regions with extreme heat and cold winters. It thrives in USDA Zones 6-10. The slow-spreading ground cover blooms in late summer with purple or white flowers. Lily Turf prefers slightly acidic, well-drained soil. Once the root system is established, the plant is drought tolerant. During the late winter or early spring months, Lily Turf can be sheared or mowed, which strengthens the plant for new growth and is a nice alternative to a traditional lawn.

Moss

Moss as a ground cover is the perfect solution for shady lawns as well as lawns with poor soil. The two key ingredients for growing moss are moisture, a two-minute watering daily, and daylight, but not direct sun. For yards that are heavily shaded, moss is both practical—needs no mowing—and provides aesthetic value. Moss does not produce flowers, seeds or establish true roots. It is a cover-like mat of stems and leaves, which absorbs nutrients and water. Moss grows very well with other perennials that thrive in the shade such as hostas, trilliums and ferns.

Flower and Shrub Beds

If you like the idea of a mulch backyard instead of grass, but want to keep some plant life around as well, you can split the difference with flower and shrub beds. This combination adds a touch of interest and beauty to the landscape while reducing soil erosion and the amount of time needed for maintaining a grassy lawn.

Generally, the types of plants used range in various heights of around 1 ft., or less. Taller flowers and shrubs can be used, as well, as a backdrop to the shorter plants. Flower beds, built-in planters and alongside sidewalks are a few suggestions when laying out a landscaping plan. For pathways throughout the yard, use one of the suggestions in this slideshow such as mulch, rocks or gravel to cover the area.

Garden Meadow

Visions of flowers blooming and gently bending in the breeze evoke an atmosphere of peace and serenity. This scene can be yours with a colorful garden meadow. There are two types: perennial and annual. Perennial meadows blossom from year to year and annual meadows produce once per year. Both are excellent alternatives to grass and put on a display of color for many months. Planting is recommended in mid-spring or early autumn in sunny areas. While annual meadows need a rich soil base, perennial meadows do well in poor soil. Wildflowers are available as a mixture of assorted seeds or as individual plants.

Outdoor Garden Features

Create an oasis in the front or backyard and eliminate the need for grass by designing a landscape that uses mostly hardscape features, such as a deck, patio, koi pond, water features, an outdoor kitchen or a fire pit.

For pathways, use one of the mentioned low-maintenance ground covers such as moss, gravel, synthetic grass or mulch. You can add in a touch of greenery by planting bordering flower beds alongside the pathways, designating an area for a vegetable or flower garden, and highlighting areas around decks, ponds or patios with drought-resistant and ornamental grasses.

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Why Grass Won’t Grow Under Your Trees—and How to Fix It

Laurie M Nichols — Tue, 11 Mar 2025 21:07:21 +0000

Growing grass can be a time-consuming, expensive process that is made particularly more difficult under trees. I’m always amazed when I see thick, green grass growing right up to a tree in a golf course or public park. It makes me wonder, “Why can’t I grow grass under my trees?”

The answer isn’t so simple, as there are many reasons it’s such a challenge. If you’re wondering why grass won’t grow under your trees, read on for our troubleshooting guide and practical solutions from two lawn care experts Joe Churchill from Reinders and Ryan Mange from CMS Landscaping.

Why Won’t Grass Grow Around My Trees?

The ground beneath a tree is not an ideal environment for grass to grow. It’s shady, the soil is often compacted or nutrient-deficient and root systems have to compete with trees for resources. “Grass growing under tree canopies is not a practice that is natural for either the grass or the tree,” Mange says. Here are some reasons why:

Not enough sunlight

Grass requires at least four hours of sunlight per day to stay alive, but most do best with six to eight. Tree branches and leaves can create dense shade beneath them, making it difficult for grass to grow.

Solutions: Choose a shade-tolerant grass variety like a fine fescue blend. Prune tree branches to allow more sunlight to reach the grass. “Raise the canopy of the tree by selectively removing lower branches at the bottom of your trees,” Churchill says. “If it’s a heavy leaf canopy, you may have to throw in the towel and consider ground covers that do well in heavy shade.”

Compacted soil

The soil around trees often gets compacted by foot traffic and lawn care equipment, making it difficult for grass to take hold and grow. “Trying to force grass growth in areas with poor soils is always a recipe for disappointment,” Mange says.

Solutions: Rent a plug aerator to aerate the soil under trees. Also, try to reduce foot traffic and use different mowing patterns when cutting your lawn.

Acidic soil

The soil under pine trees often becomes acidic from pine needles dropping and decaying into it. Grass seed prefers a neutral pH and won’t grow in high-acid soil.

Solutions: Keep pine needles cleaned up below the tree and add lime to the soil, reducing the pH.

Dry soil

Deeper, more prolific tree roots quickly absorb rainfall and water from irrigation systems. This can leave the soil under trees too dry to support grass.

Solutions: “Manage moisture under trees by adding additional water over and above what is supplied by irrigation,” Churchill says. Deep and infrequent watering is the most effective.

Competing for nutrients

When planted so near a tree, grass can lose the competition for soil nutrients. “Trees are very good at outcompeting grass for water, nutrients and sunlight,” Mange says. “[They] have evolved to be very adept at discouraging neighboring plants.”

Solutions: Consider giving the tree additional fertilizer to free up soil nutrients for the grass. Top-dress the lawn with a light layer of organic compost, or try a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer.

FAQ

What should I put around my trees to make grass grow?

To help grass grow, you can put compost, lime and shade-tolerant grass around your trees. Lime neutralizes acidic soil to a level conducive to grass. Shade-tolerant grass seed has the best chance of growing into a healthy lawn. Amend the soil with compost to add the nutrients grass needs to grow.

Should I consider artificial grass around my trees?

Artificial grass can be an option around a tree, as long as it is designed to allow rainwater to reach the tree’s roots. Avoid installing artificial grass at the base of young trees to avoid suffocating developing root systems. Add a ring of mulch around the tree base first. Artificial grass under trees does require maintenance, as leaves and debris will stain if left to decay for too long.

About the Experts

Joe Churchill is a Senior Turf Specialist with Wisconsin-based Reinders, a major distributor of lawn care products in the Midwest. He has over 25 years of experience in the turfgrass industry, is certified in Turfgrass Management with a B.A. in Geography and Horticulture from the University of Minnesota.
Ryan Mange is a Lawn/Plant Health Manager at CMS Landscaping, a full-service lawn care and irrigation company in Holyoke, Massachusetts. He is also an International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) Certified Arborist.

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Lawn Watering Tips for Yards With Lots of Trees

Chris Deziel — Fri, 07 Mar 2025 16:26:17 +0000

A yard with many trees presents both blessings and problems, and a blessing in one location can be a problem in another. Consider, for instance, the shade that trees provide: That’s a blessing in a hot area, where the trees absorb the sun’s energy and help keep everything cooler, but it’s a problem in a cool locale where every bit of sunlight is precious.

On the blessing side, trees provide natural habitats for birds and wildlife. Still, on the problematic side, they litter the yard with leaves and other detritus (depending on the species), and they can actually be hazardous in high winds. When one of the redwoods or Douglas first in my neighborhood drops a branch or blows over during a storm, it can cause a lot of damage and potentially even loss of life. Nevertheless, life is better with trees, and sometimes it’s even better with lots of them.

If you have a lawn in a yard with lots of trees, you have to consider how to approach water competition, and every situation is different. I spoke with two lawn experts from sunny California and one from the not-so-sunny UK and found that much depends on climate as well as the age, health and species of the trees and grass. Read on to find out more.

Does Your Lawn Need More Water If You Have Lots of Trees?

Two California lawn care experts, Steven Corcoran and Ward Dilmore, agreed that — generally speaking — having a lot of trees in your yard does not increase the water needs of the grass. In fact, it might be just the opposite, as Corcoran explained: “Sometimes having a lot of trees can actually decrease watering needs because the shade provided by the trees helps minimize how much water your grass needs.”

Speaking from the other side of the Pond, British lawn care specialist and gardening expert Angelika Zaber had this take: “Trees can end up competing with your grass for water as they draw a significant amount of moisture from the soil. So, to make sure that this does not result in your lawn going yellow or patchy, it is important to water your lawn more, especially in dry periods.”

A good reason for these differing opinions is the types of grass that grow in these two different climates. The species that thrive in California are warm-season, drought-resistant varieties that need less water than the cool-season varieties more common in the British Isles.

Other factors that affect the water needs of grass growing in a yard with lots of trees include:

Tree species

Some trees will compete more strongly for available water than others. “Palm trees or other trees that take up a lot of water may have an effect on a surrounding lawns water needs,” explains Dilmore.

Soil conditions

The composition of the soil determines how well it holds water. Soil with a high clay content drains more slowly than sandy or loamy soil. If the soil drains poorly, you should definitely give your lawn less water.

Watering practices

Grass roots seldom reach deeper than six inches into the ground and get the most benefit from sprinklers or hand watering with a hose. Tree roots reach much deeper. “Lawns do best with spray irrigation, and trees and shrubs should be on drip irrigation,” says Dilmore.

How To Water a Lawn With A Lot of Trees

Water grass deeply, about once or twice a week, to ensure the water reaches the roots.
Water trees separately using drip irrigation or by soaking with a hose. When using drip, choose emitters with a sufficient flow rate, and if you automate the drip system, set watering time and frequency according to the needs of the tree and the weather. Water the grass with sprinklers.
Scarify and aerate your lawn at regular intervals — about once or twice a year. “This will help to reduce compaction from tree roots and increase the lawn’s ability to absorb air, water, and nutrients,” says Zaber.
Protect tree trunks from sprinkler spray. Otherwise, says Dilmore, rotting can occur, which causes disease and invites pests.

FAQ

Can a small lawn have too many trees?

All the experts I interviewed agree on this question, and the answer is yes. Corcoran expresses the consensus by saying: “Roots can fight each other for nutrients or damage each other underground, and those roots can also go on to cause extensive damage to the yard.”

However, Dilmore points out that tree roots grow deep and shouldn’t have much effect in grass roots, which are much shallower. The real danger is the overabundance of shade, which can stunt the growth of grass and cause browned-out areas where it is dead or dying.

“The general advice,” says Zaber, “is to plant trees two meters (six feet) apart, but depending on your vision, some people plant them anywhere from one to five meters (three to 16 feet) apart.”

About the Experts

Steve Corcoran is the CEO of Lawn Love, a lawn care service based in Southern California.
Angelika Zaber is a lawn care specialist and Gardening Expert working for Online Turf, a turf, seed, and soil e-commerce company based in the UK.
Ward Dilmore is the founder of Petrus, a premier luxury estate landscaping company based in California’s Bay Area.

The post Lawn Watering Tips for Yards With Lots of Trees appeared first on Family Handyman.

Get Rid of Lawn Weeds For Good With These 12 Tips

Alex Shoemaker — Tue, 04 Mar 2025 22:19:08 +0000

Set Your Blade at the Right Height to Control Weeds

Cutting grass too short weakens it. Longer grass grows stronger and thicker and crowds out weeds. Weed seeds can’t germinate easily since they don’t get much light. Established weeds have a tougher time competing with the surrounding turf.

Each type of grass has an ideal mowing height to maintain its health and thickness. It’s about 2-1/2 in. for most cold-climate species. Cut most warm-climate grasses a bit shorter: 1-1/2 to 2 in. If you’re not sure of your grass type, take a sample to a local nursery. Or type ‘identify grass’ into an online search engine for help. Although most lawns contain a mix of grass types, they should have similar ideal cutting heights.

Plant Hardy Ground Covers in Shady Areas

Grass is a sun-loving plant. It typically needs six to eight hours of sunlight daily for good health. While several shade-tolerant species may do OK under trees and in other sheltered spots, it’s more likely that you’ll end up with weeds, scraggly grass and bare ground. It’s much better to plant a shade garden or a shade-tolerant ground cover that in a few years will blanket the area like a green carpet. And you won’t have to mow. A local nursery expert will advise you on which plants and ground covers do best in your region.

Don’t Fight Weeds Where Grass Won’t Grow

Poor light or soil conditions can make it all but impossible to grow grass in some areas. If you’ve tried more than once to nurture grass in an area and failed, it might be time to throw in the towel and treat the area with a landscaping alternative. The obvious choices are stone, mulch and attractive ground cover plants that tolerate the conditions grass can’t handle. Kill any weeds with a nonselective herbicide (re-treat survivors after 10 days). The herbicide will break down within two weeks and the ground will be safe for new plants.

Use Landscape Fabric Staples to Anchor the Seams

The seams in landscape fabric in planting beds often open between sections. To solve the problem, use landscape fabric staples. You’ll find them right next to the fabric in stores. Make sure the edges of the fabric overlap by at least 3 inches. And don’t skimp on the staples; place them about 16 in. apart. Also use staples to anchor landscape fabric around the perimeter. In hard soil, start the staples by hand and then push them in with your foot.

Treat Weed Patches With a Small Tank Sprayer

Patches or clumps of weeds are best treated with a standard 1- or 2-gallon tank sprayer. After spraying, triple-rinse the tank with water. With each rinse, pump up some pressure and flush out the wand, too.

Use a Dial Sprayer When Weeds Are Out of Control

If your whole lawn is filled with weeds, a dial sprayer attached to your garden hose is the answer. It’s fast and efficient. It’s just a matter of adding concentrated broadleaf killer to the pot, and setting the dial at the top to the mixture called for on the herbicide container—for example, 2-1/2 tablespoons per gallon of water. Then hook up the garden hose and apply an even treatment to the weedy areas.

Clear the yard of toys, furniture and anything else that can get contaminated by overspray. And be sure to protect your flowers and bushes with plastic sheeting or cardboard. Remember that broadleaf killers will kill or harm anything with leaves—including your flower bed.

Identify Weeds Before Planning the Attack

Before you start any weed control program, you need to determine which of the three types of weeds you’re controlling. Broadleaf weeds like creeping charlie have leaves, perennial grassy weeds like quack grass spread through roots and seeds, and annual grassy weeds like crab grass reseed themselves at the end of each growing season and germinate in the spring.

Each requires unique products and application methods. Some treatments are very time sensitive, while others can be done anytime during the growing season.

Prevent Crabgrass With a Pre-emergent Herbicide

The easiest way to get rid of crabgrass is to nail it before it starts growing. Apply a preemergent herbicide after your second mowing in the spring. Crabgrass grows from seeds scattered in previous years. The herbicide keeps those seeds from germinating. The seeds may remain viable for several years, so it’s best to apply herbicide every spring. One springtime application will vastly reduce the need to attack crabgrass later in the year once it has sprouted.

Pre-emergent herbicides are typically safe for pets and people, but be sure to follow the instructions carefully when applying it.

Killing Broadleaf Weeds

A broadleaf weed is any undesirable lawn plant that isn’t a grass. Dandelions, plantain, ground ivy (creeping charlie) and ragweed are a few of the most common broadleaf weeds. Before broadleaf weeds start growing in the spring, apply a pre-emergent herbicide.

It kills weeds before they sprout from seed and even kills some weeds that have just started to grow. Park your broadcast spreader over a tarp or on the driveway (grains may leak out, and a heavy dose of herbicide on the yard can kill even healthy grass). Fill the spreader and distribute the herbicide evenly over your lawn between your first and third mowings in the spring.

Dealing with late season broadleaf weeds

If a few broadleaf weeds pop up in the yard (you can always count on a few dandelions), spot-kill them with a post-emergence herbicide. Look on the label for “broadleaf killer” then check to see which weeds it targets. Some broadleaf herbicides also kill crabgrass. There’s no need to treat the entire lawn, just the weedy areas.

Killing Annual Grassy Weeds

Annual grassy weeds sprout from seed each year. The weed dies in the fall, leaving behind seeds that germinate the following spring. Crabgrass is the most notorious grassy weed, but there are others, like yellow foxtail and nutgrass. Use a pre-emergent herbicide to kill annual grassy weed seeds in the spring before they germinate.

Crabgrass preventer is the most common, but you might as well apply an herbicide containing Dimension in the spring because it also kills broadleaf weed seeds. Crabgrass often thrives along sidewalks and driveways because the ground is warmer there, so be sure to apply herbicide in those areas.

Killing late season grassy weeds

The best way to handle a few scattered annual grassy weeds is to spot-kill them with a post-emergence herbicide that’s formulated for grassy weeds. Mix the concentrated herbicide with water (per manufacturer’s directions), then pour the mixture into a handheld sprayer.

Spray the individual patches of weeds. To ensure that there’s plenty of plant material to absorb the weed killer, don’t mow the weeds just before applying the herbicide or for three days after. Always read the herbicide’s label before applying to make sure it will kill the targeted weeds and not harm your lawn.

Kill Perennial Grassy Weeds: Too Late

Once there are too many weeds to spot-treat by hand, it’s time for draconian measures. Kill everything and start over. Spray a nonselective herbicide on the weedy area and wait two weeks. If they’re not dead, spray them again. Once the weeds are dead, mow them as short as possible. After spraying the herbicide, wait 14 days to plant new grass so the herbicide won’t kill it.

Killing Perennial Grassy Weeds One By One

Quackgrass is a perennial grass that returns year after year. It spreads through seeds and extensive underground root systems and is unaffected by broadleaf killers.

You can pull it by hand, or with a garden spade or weeding tool, but you’ll have to get it before it has the chance to establish itself. You can also try killing it with heat, either using a flame weeder or by covering the area with plastic sheeting, leaving it to bake for a week under the hot summer sun.

Non-selective herbicides will work, too, but there are additional safety considerations to take into account with those products. Plus, those products have been banned in some communities.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will mulch stop weeds?

Mulch won’t stop weeds completely. Applied deep enough, it will prevent many weed seeds already in the soil from germinating and growing. But it won’t stop weeds that have already rooted. Tough weeds like dandelions will push right through if you don’t dig them out first. And more weed seeds will blow in and take root in the mulch (in both organic and stone). All mulch-covered gardens require maintenance, though less than if you don’t use mulch.

How thick should I apply organic mulch?

A layer of mulch 3 to 4 in. deep will keep most weed seeds in the soil from sprouting and increase moisture retention. However, more isn’t always better. Limit the depth to 5 to 6 in., especially around shallow-rooted plants. And pull back mulch from the base of plants so it doesn’t cause rot.

If you want to use organic mulch on slopes, apply a shredded type about 6 in. deep. It’ll mat together and stay in place better than a thinner layer.

Should I use landscape fabric under mulch?

Don’t use fabric under organic mulches. It’s better to let them decompose and mix into the soil. Use fabric only under stones and gravel. It’ll keep the rocks from sinking into the soil and make removal much easier if you want to change it later. The fabric will also slow down weeds that have rooted in the soil. Choose a fabric that allows water and air to pass through. Avoid using impermeable plastic, especially if you have trees, shrubs or other plants nearby.

Unfortunately, landscape fabric also makes weeding extremely difficult; you can’t get a shovel down through the rock and fabric. And it’s tough to pull weeds that root into the fabric.

The post Get Rid of Lawn Weeds For Good With These 12 Tips appeared first on Family Handyman.

13 Tips for Getting Rid of Crabgrass for Good

Alex Shoemaker — Thu, 27 Feb 2025 21:07:20 +0000

Get Them Before They Sprout

The best weapon you have against this annual weed is crabgrass preemergence herbicide (also called crabgrass preventer). You apply this product in the spring before the crabgrass seed sprouts. The most cost-effective way to apply a preemergent herbicide is to use a fertilizer with crabgrass preventer added to it. Apply it when you would normally apply your first application of fertilizer, and do it just before it rains to work both the fertilizer and the herbicide into the soil.

The fertilizer will help thicken the turf. Thicker turf helps to squeeze out crabgrass plants missed by the herbicide. Common brands include Ferti- Lome’s Weed-Out, Sta-Green’s Crab-Ex Plus and Scotts Turf Builder.

So how do you select the exact instant for application? Pay attention to your grass. Fill up the spreader with preemergence granules between the second and third mowings of the year. The window is short, only about a week and a half, when the soil hits the ideal temperature, about 52 degrees F. You can also buy an inexpensive soil thermometer (sold at garden centers) to monitor soil temperature. If you’re going to err on timing your crabgrass preemergence application, err on the early side.

While you’ll lose some effectiveness, you’ll still probably kill lots of crabgrass. If you go late, you’re likely to miss early sprouts.

Crabgrass Killer Application

Apply crabgrass preemergence granules with a spreader, especially around driveways and walks and also alongside the neighbor’s crabgrass-infested yard.

Herbicides that kill crabgrass will also kill desirable grasses such as bluegrass, ryegrass and fescue. If you treat your lawn with a preemergent, you cannot seed. And if you seed, you cannot use a preemergent herbicide. The solution is to control crabgrass in the spring and do your seeding in late summer or early fall, making sure to keep these two chores at least eight weeks apart. There are a few preemergent herbicides, such as Tupersan, that are compatible with newly established seed, but they’re expensive and can be hard to find.

There are many different trade names for ‘weed and feed’ products on the market. Chemical names can be confusing. Look carefully at the ingredients panel for dithiopyr, prodiamine or pendimethalin. These active ingredients, which are sold under various brand names such as Dimension, Barricade and Scotts Halts, will kill crabgrass in most areas of the country and in many different kinds of turf. However, it’s always wise to ask your local extension service which chemicals are best for your area and turf species.

What to Look For

Young crabgrass plants perfect for pulling have two to four sets of leaves but no splayed seed heads. Immature crabgrass plants have tight, green seed heads. They’re more difficult to remove, but it’s still OK to pull them.

Fully mature crabgrass has splayed seed heads. It’s best to leave it alone. Pulling will leave a big hole in the lawn and spread up to 5,000 seeds per plant. The plant will die in the fall. Then hit the area next spring with preemergence granules to keep the seeds from sprouting.

Spray Stubborn Patches

Lightly mist masses of immature crabgrass with a postemergence herbicide. Usually it’s too embedded to pull without yanking lots of your desirable grass with it.

Spray postemergence herbicide directly on crabgrass after it has sprouted. Pulling is equally effective, but if the roots are deeply embedded in your lawn, it may be tough to pull them out without pulling grass chunks too. It’s not worth spraying a postemergence product on crabgrass that has gone to seed. It takes about two weeks for the herbicide to work, which is about how long it takes the plant to finish its seeding process. If it has gone to seed, you’re better off waiting for next spring and applying a preemergence product then.

Apply a Double Dose Near Hot Spots

Lawn near driveways, sidewalks and curbs or on south-facing banks absorbs a lot of heat during the summer months, which makes it more susceptible to crabgrass. Limit crabgrass growth in these areas by doing a targeted double treatment. After you’ve treated your entire lawn, go back and make another pass, about 6 to 8 ft. wide, along these areas (and make sure to sweep it off hard surfaces afterward). This will help keep crabgrass from taking hold along these heat absorbers.

Kill It All and Start Over!

Kill off patches of lawn with nonselective herbicide in the fall if more than half the area is weeds. When it’s safe to replant (check the herbicide label), soak the patch with water and rake off dead grass and thatch to bare the soil.

While we all admire those who relentlessly defend their turf against crabgrass, there comes a time when the best strategy is to give up. That time is when your lawn only has 30 to 40 percent desirable grass left in a given area and the rest is lost to crabgrass and other weeds.

Begin by killing all the vegetation. On a low-wind day, apply a nonselective herbicide that is approved for lawn use, like Round-Up or Kleen-Up. Follow the label directions exactly. Depending on the product, weeds and grass will die and dry up in five to 14 days following application. Then renovation can proceed.

Thoroughly soak the area to give your new grass its best chance for a good start. Check your watering depth by pushing a spade into the ground and pulling it back to get a deep view of the soil. If the soil is moist to a depth of 6 to 8 in., you’re ready.

For patchy bare areas and turf-free areas up to about 8 ft. square, use the spade technique for seeding. It’s very effective, although it would be slow and tedious on areas that are much larger. Scuff up the dead vegetation with a rake and, using a spade, make 1/4-in.-deep furrows about 2 in. apart. Broadcast your grass seed, then flip a rake upside down and knock the seeds into the furrows. These furrows ensure that the seeds will make good contact with soil; they provide some moisture-retaining shelter as well.

Then be sure to keep the seeds and soil moist. Continue to baby your new grass until after its first mowing. Do not apply crabgrass preventer to freshly planted areas.

Consider Chemical-Free Control Methods

Preemergent herbicides are the most effective and economical way to control crabgrass. But if you’d rather not use herbicides, you can try hand-weeding individual crabgrass plants in late spring before they get too big. They pull easily in soft ground after a rain.

Corn gluten meal (CGM), a corn byproduct, is another method used to control both crabgrass and broadleaf weeds such as dandelions and clover. It releases a protein that slows the development of weed seedling roots. CGM requires a heavy application rate (20 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft.), which makes it cumbersome to use and expensive.

The post 13 Tips for Getting Rid of Crabgrass for Good appeared first on Family Handyman.

How to Plant Grass to Fix a Bare Spot

Jessica Kaplan — Sun, 09 Feb 2025 22:44:06 +0000

Got bare spots in your lawn? Patching them by reseeding is easy provided you stick with the watering part. It only takes minutes to do the seeding part. But after that, you’ll have to water every single day for at least two weeks.

Learn more about caring for your lawn here.

The post How to Plant Grass to Fix a Bare Spot appeared first on Family Handyman.

How to Cut Down a Tree Safely

Harrison Kral — Thu, 30 Jan 2025 20:32:58 +0000

Wear the Right Safety Gear

Safety isn’t a throwaway word when it comes to felling trees and running chainsaws. You must take it seriously. There, of course, is some essential safety gear you should always wear for any chainsaw work, like gloves and noise-suppressing ear protection. There are also some specific items tree-felling items you should look into:

- A logger’s helmet to protect you from falling branches, a major cause of logging injuries.
- Earmuffs and a face screen to protect your ears and eyes.
- Safety glasses to keep out the dust.
- Kevlar chaps, which will stop a chain instantly should you happen to drop the bar against your leg.

Buy Felling Wedges

Two plastic felling wedges will prevent your saw from getting pinched during a cut. You can find these at any outdoor power equipment store that carries chain saws.

Estimate the Felling Zone: How to fell a tree in the direction you want

Trees are taller than you think and reach farther on the ground than you’d expect. When you’re planning on felling a tree, you can estimate where a tree will fall by using the “ax handle trick.” This is how to fell a tree in the direction you want: hold an ax handle at arm’s length, close one eye, and back away from or move toward the tree until the top of the ax is even with the treetop and the bottom is even with the base. Your feet should be about where the treetop will rest after falling. It’s just an estimate, though, so allow extra room if there’s something the tree might fall on!

Clear a Cutting Zone

Even when you’re sure which way the tree is going to fall, you’re still not ready to fell it. Cut away any brush around the trunk and clear two escape routes on the “non-falling” side of the tree. They should be about 45 degrees away from each other in opposite directions. The last thing you want is to trip while walking away from a falling tree.

Size Up the Tree

Start by studying the tree. Don’t cut it down if you see:

– Dead branches that are broken but attached or that are actually broken off and supported by other branches. You’re bound to knock a branch loose and have it fall on you.

– It is obviously leaning in one direction or heavily loaded with branches on one side. It will fall in the direction of the lean or load despite your best efforts.

– There are buildings, fences, power lines or other things you care about in the felling zone. If so, skip the felling and call a pro.

Anatomy of a Proper Notch

When felling a tree, the rule of thumb is to make the depth of the notch one-fifth of the tree trunk’s diameter. The goal is to make the angles as shown in the diagram (or as close as you can). The felling cut should meet the point of the notch. When the tree starts to fall, the hinge will help guide the tree to fall in the desired direction.

Plan the Notch

You’re going to be cutting a notch on the “fall” side of the trunk. Sight along the handle and adjust the saw until it’s pointing toward your fall direction. The spot where the bar touches the bark will be the center of the notch. Before cutting, lay out the notch by marking it with chalk or scoring the bark with the chainsaw. Make the notch at a comfortable working height. (You can always shorten or remove the stump later.)

Cut the Notch

Make the top cut first and then the bottom. When you’re making the bottom cut, adjust your hand to control the throttle with your thumb. If you meet the top notch perfectly, the wedge will drop out of the notch. Most likely, you’ll have to extend the cuts from either the top or the bottom so the wedge can drop free.

Use Wedges on Big Trees

If you’re felling a tree that’s more than 18 in. in diameter, go ahead and make your notch cut and begin the felling cut. Stop cutting as soon as you’ve penetrated far enough to pound wedges behind the bar. Leave the bar in the cut with the saw running, but lock the chain brake and tap in the wedges. Then, finish the cut. Wedges will keep the saw from getting pinched in the cut if the tree leans back.

Make the Felling Cut

Score a line connecting the apex of the notch on both sides for a cutting guide. The back cut should be parallel and even with the apex of the notch. Then make the felling cut. The instant the tree begins leaning, pull the saw free, set the chain brake and walk away along one of your escape routes, keeping an eye on the tree so you can react if it doesn’t fall the way you planned. Never take your eye off a falling tree.

A Lookout Might Save Your Life

When felling a tree, you’ll be a lot safer if you have a trusted assistant standing a few feet behind you watching the top of the tree for falling branches and letting you know when the tree starts to fall. Have your assistant tap you on the shoulder with a stick to alert you when it’s time to vacate the area. If it’s early in the cut and you get the tap, leave the saw and walk away immediately. That means a branch is falling. Near the end of the cut, a tap means the tree is beginning its descent.

Start Cutting Branches at the Trunk

After felling the tree, cut off branches starting at the lower end of the trunk and working to the top. Whenever possible, stand on the uphill side of the tree. Work from the left side of the trunk (as you face toward the top of the tree). This allows the safest and most efficient use of the chain saw because you can rest the side or bottom of the saw on the trunk and slice off the branches with a pivoting motion.

Saw the Trunk into Firewood

Cut a log into 16-in. lengths for firewood by first sawing three-quarters of the way through the log. Then, roll it over and complete the cuts.

Learn how to cut firewood multiple ways so you can use whichever tools you have available.

The post How to Cut Down a Tree Safely appeared first on Family Handyman.

Popular Lawn Mower Brand Recalls 39,000 Units Over Engine Defect

noelle devoe — Mon, 06 Jan 2025 21:39:02 +0000

If you’re a John Deere lawn mower owner, a recent recall impacting certain ZTrak Zero Turn Mower models will be of great concern to you, as it concerns potential safety risks. The issue involves the Kawasaki motors within the mowers, which have a defect that could pose a fire hazard during use or even when the mower is stored.

While no injuries have been reported, some worrying incidents linked to this defect have occurred, making it essential to act if your mower is affected. Read on to find out which models are included in the recall and how to handle the situation if you’re impacted.

What John Deere Mowers Are Being Recalled?

John Deere is recalling about 39,000 of its ZTrak Zero Turn Mowers with model numbers Z720E, Z730M, Z740R and Z760R. John Deere will contact all known purchasers of the impacted mowers directly.

The serial numbers for the impacted models, which will be located on the right side of the machine near the rear tire, are listed below:

Model Z720E
- Start Serial Number: 1TC720E****010001
- End Serial Number: 1TC720E****080657
Model Z730M
- Start Serial Number: 1TC730M****010001
- End Serial Number: 1TC730M****080574
Model Z740R
- Start Serial Number: 1TC740R****010001
- End Serial Number: 1TC740R****080462
Model Z760R
- Start Serial Number: 1TC760R****080001
- End Serial Number: 1TC760R****080339

Why Are These Mowers Being Recalled?

These mowers are being recalled because the Kawasaki engines within them are defective. According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission recall brief dated Jan. 2, “The voltage regulator in the mower’s engine can fail during use or while the product is being stored, causing the engine to overheat, posing fire and burn hazards.”

Kawasaki Motors reports five fires and 26 instances of melting and/or smoking connected to this issue, but no injuries have been reported.

What To Do If Your Mower Is Recalled

If your mower is affected by this recall, you should contact an authorized John Deere dealer immediately to set up a free repair appointment. You can contact Deere & Company for more information through their customer service line (800-537-8233).

Source

CPSC.org: “Kawasaki Motors USA Recalls John Deere ZTrak Zero Turn Mowers with Kawasaki Engines Due to Fire and Burn Hazards”

How To Get Rid of Weeds in Pine Trees Without Killing Them

Laurie M Nichols — Fri, 20 Dec 2024 16:28:50 +0000

Pine trees can serve a variety of purposes in a home landscape, from acting as windbreaks to providing visual interest with their evergreen foliage. Though generally low-maintenance, pine trees can develop weeds beneath their canopy that need to be managed. Whether you’re dealing with invasive grasses, broadleaf weeds or climbing vines, effective weed control is necessary for the health of your pine tree. But it’s important to approach weed management with care, as herbicides can harm or kill pine trees.

Below, three tree experts — Brady Self from Mississippi State University Extension Service, Jaret Rushing and Jacob Hackman from the University of Arkansas Systems Division of Agriculture and Jacob Hackman from the University of Arkansas Systems Division of Agriculture — share their top tips for killing weeds in pine trees.

Can Weeds Growing on a Pine Tree Hurt the Tree?

In certain cases, weeds growing on a pine tree can hurt it. But this will depend on the type of weeds and the age and health of the pine tree.

Young pine trees are vulnerable to low-growing weeds like invasive grasses and broadleaf weeds that compete for sunlight, water and nutrients. But this risk passes once saplings grow tall enough. “As the tree gets older and establishes itself above competing vegetation, the impact of those weeds goes down exponentially to a point where there is very little impact on the growth or survival of the tree,” Self says.

But, older, more established pine trees can still be impacted by weeds. Unwanted trees, technically weeds, compete with pine trees and suppress their growth. “Any plant can be considered a weed if it’s growing in an area that it shouldn’t be,” Hackman says. “Although it sounds strange to think of trees as weeds, some species are invasive or can have devastating effects on overall forest health and should be removed or managed to maintain a healthy pine tree or forest.” Hardwood trees and pine tree saplings sprouting too close to established trees are common types of weed trees that grow under pines.

Climbing weeds are also a concern with older pine trees. Weeds like English Ivy, Virginia Creeper, Oriental Bittersweet and Kudzu can smother trees with their vines and leaves while blocking out sunlight. In extreme cases, the weight of the vines can cause tree limbs to break under their weight. “Vine control is important because climbing vines can choke out pine trees,” Rushing says, “and vines that have reached the canopy compete for resources with the tree.”

Can Weed Killer Kill Pine Trees?

Yes, weed killers can absolutely harm or kill pine trees, so they must be used carefully. “The wrong chemical applied in the wrong way can have devastating effects on a forest ecosystem and should be treated with the utmost respect and caution,” Hackman says.

“Always read the product label and “ask someone in the know if you are unsure of potential damage to pines,” Self says.

How to Kill Weeds in Pine Trees Without Killing the Pine Tree

To kill low-growing weeds in pine trees, like invasive grasses or broadleaf weeds, use a foliate-activated weed killer like glyphosate, the active ingredient in Round-Up. This type of herbicide only works when applied to living foliage, so it poses a low risk to pine trees. To avoid harming the tree, “apply it underneath tree foliage, and take care not to get it on the needles,” Rushing says.

There are other safe, natural weed killers available if you’re uncomfortable with glyphosate.

For larger weeds, like invasive trees, use a chainsaw or hand saw to cut them down. Wear protective gear and follow all safety protocols. Even when cut down, weed trees can return, requiring further action. “Many species of trees can resprout from the root system that remains underground,” Hackman says. He suggests trying a method called “hack and squirt,” where you create a wound in a tree trunk with a chainsaw or axe and then quickly spray herbicide into the wound. “[This] can be effective in completely killing the weed tree, but the time of year for this type of treatment can change its efficacy,” he says.

To remove invasive Norway Maple tree saplings from my yard, I use a reciprocating saw with a pruning blade. After cutting the sapling down, I dig away the soil from the roots and cut the roots with the saw as well. This is effective at preventing regrowth at the stump, which this tree species will often do.

Preventing climbing vines from getting established requires vigilance as they grow quickly. When young, pull them up by the root to remove them. To kill established climbing weeds, cut them down with loppers, remove as much of the root as possible and apply glyphosate to any remaining foliage or growth.

When Should I Call a Pro?

While killing weeds in pine trees is typically a manageable task for homeowners, there are some scenarios where you should call a pro.

If you have allergies to the weeds you’re trying to control, call a pro to avoid exposure. Also, if weed trees are taller than 10 to 15 feet tall, it may be best to hire a professional to safely fell them for you.

Still unsure you can tackle this on your own? Hackman recommends reaching out to local consultants. “Almost all 50 states have local county agriculture or forestry agents that can come perform a site visit to help or point you in the right direction free of charge. Most states will also have local Consulting Foresters and Arborists who are trained in herbicide applications and can perform the application for a fee,” he says.

About the Experts

Brady Self is an Extension Professor with the Mississippi State University Extension Service and has over 20 years of professional forest herbicide experience.
Jaret Rushing is a Forestry Extension Instructor with the University of Arkansas Systems Division of Agriculture and has over 17 years of experience.
Jacob Hackman, PhD. is an Assistant Professor of Forest Management and Extension with the University of Arkansas Systems Division of Agriculture. Tips for killing weeds around pine trees without damaging their roots or health—easy solutions for homeowners!

The post How To Get Rid of Weeds in Pine Trees Without Killing Them appeared first on Family Handyman.

8 Must-Know Tips to Drought-Proof Your Lawn

Laurie M Nichols — Fri, 06 Dec 2024 18:08:28 +0000

Plant a Drought-Tolerant Grass

One effective way to drought-proof your lawn is by choosing drought-tolerant grass varieties. In warm climates, grasses like Zoysia, Bermuda, and Buffalo thrive on minimal water. For cooler regions, Tall Fescue and Fine Fescue are resilient to both drought and cold. These grasses are perfect for dry spells and require less water than other varieties.

Increase Mower Height

Heading into a drought with taller grass will help it survive, so keep your mower deck between 3 to 3 1/2 inches when cutting. Taller grass shades the soil, protects roots from extreme temperatures and improves moisture retention. It also encourages deeper root growth, helping the lawn access water deeper in the soil. If you’re currently in a drought, avoid mowing if possible to minimize stress on the grass.

Water Deeply and Less Often

Though it may seem counterintuitive, watering less often but more deeply actually benefits your lawn. “That will train grass roots to grow deeper into the soil looking for water,” Churchill says. Overwatered lawns develop shallow root systems, which are more vulnerable during extended dry spells.

Instead of setting your automatic sprinkler to run every day, try adjusting it to every three or four days. “Let the ground dry out some, your lawn will actually thank you for it,” Churchill says.

Fertilize Properly

Fertilizing your lawn at the right times helps develop deeper, stronger roots for better drought resistance. Start in spring with a balanced fertilizer to promote early root growth. Avoid fertilizing during peak summer to prevent heat stress. After the peak of summer heat, apply a fertilizer with moderate nitrogen and higher potassium to help grass conserve water, resist stress and grow stronger roots, which are crucial for surviving late-summer or fall droughts.

Plant Trees

Planting a few trees to provide natural shade can go a long way toward drought-proofing your lawn. The shade helps protect grass from intense sun, lowering soil temperatures and improving moisture retention. Trees also serve as windbreaks, shielding your lawn from drying winds during dry spells.

Overall, trees are a low-maintenance, natural solution to conserve moisture and enhance your lawn’s drought resilience.

Use Soil Moisture Sensors

If drought-proofing your lawn is the goal, avoid watering on a set routine. Instead, consider factors like grass type, rainfall, air temperatures, soil types and wind speeds before deciding to water.

To simplify this process, Churchill recommends relying on irrigation technology. “The best way to determine if and when your lawn needs water is to install moisture sensors in the soil just under the lawn surface,” he says. These sensors activate sprinklers only when needed, promoting optimal root growth and health.

Mulch Lawn Clippings

Instead of bagging grass clippings, mulch them back onto the lawn to help drought-proof your yard. A thin layer of mulched clippings regulates soil temperatures, improves moisture retention and adds organic matter to the soil. This helps conserve water and enriches the soil with nutrients, promoting a healthier, more resilient lawn. However, if your lawn is very overgrown, avoid mulching, as thick clippings can create a mat that may harm the grass.

Consider Lawn Alternatives

If you live in a dry, drought-prone area, consider lawn alternatives to conserve water and reduce maintenance. Xeriscaping involves replacing traditional grass with drought-tolerant native plants that can survive on minimal water.

Instead of grass, you can use bushes, shrubs, and rock landscaping to create a beautiful, low-water landscape. Additionally, artificial turf has come a long way in both appearance and durability, offering a realistic grass look without the need for irrigation or regular upkeep.

About the Expert

Joe Churchill is a Senior Turf Specialist for Reinders, a major distributor of lawn care products throughout the Midwest. Churchill is certified in Turf Management and has over 25 years of experience in the turfgrass industry.

The post 8 Must-Know Tips to Drought-Proof Your Lawn appeared first on Family Handyman.

Why You Might Want to Stop Raking Your Leaves

Laurie M Nichols — Tue, 19 Nov 2024 17:09:08 +0000

As a lifelong New Englander, I know that raking leaves in the fall is an expected part of life. It’s commonly understood that you should clean up every last leaf from your yard before the snow arrives. But in recent years, this practice has faced scrutiny. Some now advocate for a more environmentally friendly approach that involves leaving leaves in place. So, with another fall upon us, what’s the right choice?

In this article, we’ll explore the pros and cons of both options, featuring insights from Shawn Doucette of Facility Maintenance Solutions.

Benefits of Raking Your Leaves

Before you stop raking leaves, consider the benefits of leaf cleanup.

Aesthetics: A well-raked lawn looks neat and tidy, improving your home’s curb appeal. Plus, there’s nothing as satisfying as getting every last leaf.
Prevent plant fungus and disease: Unraked leaves can develop mold and fungus, which could spread to bushes and shrubs in your landscaping.
Lawn health: Keeping leaves raked promotes a healthy lawn, as thick layers of leaves will smother and kill your grass. “It’s good to have oxygenated soil, and you’ll end up with dead, yellow spots on your lawn in the spring if you don’t rake,” Doucette says.
Safety: Leaves can hide uneven ground or trip hazards for you and your family, as well as guests. Some leaves, like oak, are also very slippery.

Benefits of NOT Raking Your Leaves

If you think you might stop raking leaves, there are some advantages.

Natural fertilizer: As leaves break down and decay, they return nutrients to the soil.
Preserves biodiversity: Many microorganisms, insects and small animals rely on decaying leaf litter as a habitat or a safe place to overwinter.
More free time: Letting leaves lie will give you more time to enjoy fall weekends with friends and family.
Less allergen exposure: Leaves contain pollen, dust and dirt. Avoid this added allergen exposure by not raking your leaves.
Natural weed management: Group leaves into piles or thick layers around shrubs in landscaping beds to inhibit weed growth. The leaves will block sunlight and prevent any airborne weed spores from taking root in the soil.

Should I Stop Raking My Leaves?

Whether or not you rake your leaves really comes down to personal preference. But if you’re thinking you might stop raking leaves, you’ll want to consider a few points.

If you live in a wet climate, unraked leaves can easily get damp and moldy. It’s important to rake them up to reduce air allergens and prevent infecting landscape plantings. Also, in drier climates, or areas prone to forest fires, you’ll want to rake leaves to reduce flammable leaf litter.

If you live in a Homeowner’s Association (HOA), you likely have to rake your leaves. HOA’s often have rules that govern the outside appearance of your home. Some provide landscaping services, which include fall cleanup. Those that don’t will have guidelines and even deadlines when you’re expected to have your leaves cleaned up.

About the Expert

Shawn Doucette is the owner of Facility Maintenance Solutions, a full-service property maintenance company offering exterior and interior services, in Amherst, Massachusetts.

The post Why You Might Want to Stop Raking Your Leaves appeared first on Family Handyman.

I Tried the New Battery-Powered Toro Leaf Blower, and Here’s How It Went

Tyler Graham — Tue, 19 Nov 2024 16:37:19 +0000

I tried the all-new Toro leaf blower—the Toro 60-volt Max 900-CFM 165-MPH leaf blower, to be exact—and I was (literally) blown away. This was my first experience with the Toro leaf blower, and I am quite impressed.

I have used dozens of leaf blowers in my day and can confidently say I’ve experienced a wide range of performances from blowers. I started my leaf blower journey with the classic handheld Stihl BG86C blower. Since then, I have personally owned and tested five handheld gas blowers, nine backpack leaf blowers (both battery and gas), three handheld corded electric leaf blowers, and 11 handheld battery-powered blowers.

What Is the Battery-Powered Toro Leaf Blower?

When Toro designed their new battery leaf blower, we were shocked to see how much thought went into the design and the performance. You can easily tell that the team that pulled this blower together included people like me, who have used dozens of blowers and knew that Toro needed to push the envelope to stay competitive in the battery-powered leaf blower space.

I admit that I was skeptical when I first received this blower. Toro, a brand with an amazing reputation for providing some of the most powerful zero-turn mowers, has long been known for its success with golf course management tools and a wide range of commercial products. However, they have only recently begun to dip their toes in the battery-powered space, starting with their classic lawnmowers, which I have come to know and love.

TYLER GRAHAM FOR FAMILY HANDYMAN

I Tried It

Toro Flex-Force 60-volt Max 900-CFM 165-MPH Battery Handheld Leaf Blower

Toro Leaf Blower Features

The blower boasts a whopping 900 CFM (cubic feet per minute) and 165 MPH air speed, both of which are at the top of the game in the leaf blower world. You can reach the maximum airspeed by using the “Turbo” button, which is meant for temporary blasts of air that help remove wet leaves and grass from surfaces.

This blower also comes with a concentrated nozzle, which helps further focus air and increase overall air speed for targeted clean-up. The Toro battery-powered blower also comes with several easy-to-control measures, including a textured grip, a well-balanced body, variable speed and cruise control so that you don’t tire out your hand, and an aggressive design that helps hold the blower down and forward.

You can use the 60-volt battery on the Toro leaf blower on other 60V Max products from Toro, which saves you money on buying new batteries for these tools in the long run. As Toro continues to build out the 60V Max lineup, this can result in huge savings for the average homeowner who doesn’t have to buy a new battery with each tool.

How I Tested the Toro Leaf Blower

Assembly

The new Toro battery-powered leaf blower was very simple to put together. It comes in two or three pieces that easily snap together. I quickly snapped the nozzle onto the base of the blower and excitedly rushed out the door to start eviscerating leaves.

Job Site Test (Commercial Landscaping)

I used the Toro battery-powered blower on the job site first. Having recently re-started a landscaping company, I had about eight lawns back-to-back on my first day with the Toro blower. I was excited to see how it would perform relative to other handheld battery blowers. My first stop was mowing my friend Chase’s house. He lives in a nice neighborhood with lots that are about ¼ acre or less.

This presented the ideal opportunity to see how the Toro blower would perform on a typical lawn. Another positive of using the battery-powered Toro blower is that Chase has two small kids that I knew napped at various points throughout the day. My gas-powered backpack blower could wake the dead with its high noise levels, so having an electric tool was great for making sure I could maneuver around their home without waking the kids.

I will also caution that most handheld battery leaf blowers aren’t used for commercial landscaping purposes. They aren’t designed to last all day, and I knew that going into this round of testing. Other blowers, including electric ones, are designed to go with you on the job site. Toro designed this blower for residential homeowners looking to crush leaves and debris in their backyard, put the battery back on the charger and get on with their life. That doesn’t mean I am not going to push the blower to its limits and use it however I can.

Home Test

I used the Toro on my yard after the first time mowed again after a week straight of rainfall here in middle Tennessee. The grass clippings were still a bit moist. If you have ever used a leaf blower after mowing a moist lawn, you will understand that this situation is headache-inducing. Wet grass sticks to concrete like nothing you have ever seen. In order to get it off, you generally have to either wait until it dries, use a push broom, or have a blower that can somehow lift it off of the concrete.

Most leaf blowers put out about 400-500 CFM. Even some of the most powerful backpack leaf blowers will put out 700 CFM or so of air. At 900 CFM, the Toro 60V Max may be one of the most powerful handheld leaf blowers I have ever seen. The combination of tremendous air volume output with wind speeds of 165 MPH means that very few blowers on the market come close to this amount of power.

So naturally, I had to use this on the famous wet grass clippings to see how it would do. It was an absolute demolition. The leaf blower removed almost every blade of grass from the concrete driveway. I was so impressed that I wanted to ring the doorbell and tell my friend all about it. I have never seen a blower, especially a handheld battery-powered leaf blower, push this much air and perform so well.

Blowing Heavy Debris

I set this blower back in the trailer and moved on to the next house. At the next job, I was looking at a garden bed that had been washed out with water and spread mulch all over the lawn and sidewalk leading up to the front door. The mulch was a shredded hardwood mulch and was mostly dry by this point. Before I mowed the yard, this needed to be cleaned up. It presented a perfect opportunity to give the Toro 60V blower a chance to run wild by blowing mulch in the grass (which is notoriously difficult) and pushing it across a sidewalk.

The blower accomplished both of these. Moving mulch across concrete was a breeze, and I was shocked to see how easily it lifted the mulch out of the thick, long grass and placed it back into the garden bed.

I moved onto the third house of the day, which was just like the first one. The grass was slightly dryer, and the clippings blasted back into the grass easily. At this point, I was texting my wife, telling her I couldn’t believe it.

As a second reminder, this blower was not designed for professional landscapers in the same way that gas-powered leaf blowers are. Those can run all day because you can keep buying and pouring gas into the blower for as long as you need. Toro’s new blower obviously requires you to recharge the batteries.

Long-Term Performance

In my personal use of this blower around my house, which seems to be more and more neglected the more I work on other people’s lawns, I continued to be impressed with the Toro leaf blower. In the course of my normal weekly lawn maintenance, I found the blower to have consistent, extremely powerful performance.

One downside I noticed relatively early is that when you use the turbo button off and on, there is a noticeable drain on the battery life. I expected extremely high power to reduce battery life, but I was a bit disappointed to see how quickly it reduced battery life. Without using the turbo button, I still had more than enough battery life to care for my yard (and then some).

As the weeks passed and leaves began falling from the trees, I retested the Toro battery blower once more. Leaves were absolutely light work for this blower. The blower is an absolute bully for drying leaves, easily launching them across my yard. The turbo button was unnecessary, but I had to use it for the sake of science. It was total and absolute destruction of the leaves.

Pros:

Extremely high power with 900 CFM
Ergonomic grip with easy maneuvering
60V Max battery system used across Toro’s 60V lineup
Finger-saving cruise control function
Much quieter than gas blowers
Turbo button to toggle maximum speed

Cons:

Battery life drains with Turbo usage
Fewer tools in Toro’s battery lineup than some other brands

Why You Should Trust Us

As I mentioned at the beginning of this article, I have personally tested dozens, if not hundreds, of leaf blowers, including backpack blowers, corded electric blowers, cordless blowers and gas-powered handheld blowers.

As a landscaper, I developed a unique love for lawn tools after using them every day for years. Now, I spend my days testing lawnmowers, string trimmers, leaf blowers and more. Much of my time is spent using new leaf blowers and comparing them to see which one reigns supreme.

FAQ

How long does a Toro leaf blower last?

The Toro leaf blower advertises a run time of 120 minutes—but this is generally on a low-speed setting under ideal conditions. In my experience, the blower can run for about an hour for typical use around the house, where you may maximize the power for a longer time. Introducing the turbo button drops the run time to about 30 minutes.

How do you use the Toro battery-powered leaf blower?

The Toro battery leaf blower can be easily controlled using the variable speed trigger, which changes the amount of power coming from the battery. It also has a cruise control function that holds a certain speed in place, allowing your hand to relax and hold the blower—no more cramping.

This is a handheld leaf blower, meaning you simply pull the trigger and point it at whatever debris you want to blow away.

What Other Reviewers Had to Say

While the Toro 60V Max Battery-Powered Blower is still relatively new, the few who have used it have agreed with me—it rocks. One reviewer at Lowe’s felt similarly, calling the blower a “powerhouse” with “the size and weight of the blower working perfectly to balance the blower when used in turbo mode.” Another reviewer at Lowe’s had the same experience as me, using this blower on “1/2 acre of concrete around their farm” and mentioned that the blower “gets rid of those pesky leaves and grass clippings.”

Toro Battery-Powered Leaf Blower vs. Ryobi Battery-Powered Leaf Blower

I’ve had the distinct privilege of using the Toro and Ryobi battery-powered leaf blowers. The Ryobi battery-powered leaf blower is a great blower. Ryobi’s new Whisper series produces quiet, powerful tools that can be found at The Home Depot for a great price. Ryobi’s Whisper series blower was the cat’s meow when it was released. It had one of the highest CFM and MPH ranges on the market and was advertised as the quietest blower.

Times have changed in the last two years. There are a number of other blowers in a similar power range that also exhibit quiet run times. The Toro battery blower simply outguns the Ryobi blower. I have used both side-by-side, and the Toro is the better blower.

Final Verdict

I can confidently say that this is hands down the best combination of price, power and performance on the market. I am excited that Toro will continue to build out their electric lineup with the 60V Max batteries so that I can achieve better cost efficiency in the future. I also think Toro can keep refining their battery technology so that the batteries last longer.

All in all, this blower has set a new standard for power in handheld electric blowers.

Where to Buy the Toro Battery-Powered Leaf Blower

TYLER GRAHAM FOR FAMILY HANDYMAN

I Tried It

Toro Flex-Force 60-volt Max 900-CFM 165-MPH Battery Handheld Leaf Blower

You can grab the Toro battery-powered blower from Lowe’s with the battery for just under $350, and you can use the battery with other Toro lawn tools.

The post I Tried the New Battery-Powered Toro Leaf Blower, and Here’s How It Went appeared first on Family Handyman.

Think Adirondack Chairs Are Uncomfortable? You’re Using Them Wrong

Rebecca Wright Brown — Mon, 18 Nov 2024 16:55:01 +0000

If you’ve been looking to furnish your outdoor area, you’ve likely been browsing for lawn chairs. Or perhaps you’re planning on replacing old or uncomfortable chairs. Either way, you’ve likely looked at several popular styles of outdoor chair. But if you’ve seen negative reviews about the comfort of Adirondack chairs, or you dislike your own, don’t count them out just yet.

Most people who complain that Adirondack chairs are uncomfortable are just using them wrong.

What Are Adirondack Chairs?

Adirondack chairs are a distinct style of outdoor chair. They have tall backs and wide arms, so they look like a fantastic choice for lounging in your yard. What separates them from other lawn chairs out there, however, is the legs. On an Adirondack chair, the rear legs are much shorter than the front legs. They also attach to the seat at an obtuse angle, whereas the front legs form a right angle. This means that when the chair is sitting on flat ground, the seat pitches back

@watchautumn Thank you, Adirondack Chair.. Sorry I doubted you.. #adirondacks #adirondackchair #themoreyouknow ♬ original sound – Autumn | Millennial Money

Why Are Adirondack Chairs So Uncomfortable?

To put it bluntly, if your Adirondack chairs are particularly uncomfortable, it’s most likely because you’re using them wrong.

As TikToker Autumn (@watchautumn) explains in her video above, the design of the legs pushes the seat up at an awkward angle. And it’s exactly this odd angle that makes so many people write off these chairs as uncomfortable. But fear not! It’s very easy to use these chairs the right way. And once you do, you’ll understand why they’ve been a staple of yards for such a long time.

How to Properly Sit on Adirondack Chairs

Autumn begins her video by explaining that she bought some Adirondack chairs and immediately found them uncomfortable. She says that her backyard is flat, and so the shorter back legs left her sitting in a very uncomfortable position. But then someone alerted her to the fact that Adirondack chairs get their name from the Adirondack range in New York, a famously mountainous and hilly part of the country. These chairs are designed to accommodate hills and mountains, letting people still sit out and enjoy the scenery.

Autumn then explains that when she moved her Adirondack chair to the hill in her backyard, with the rear legs higher up on the hill, the design choices suddenly became clear. Now, those shorter legs balance out the slope of the hill, leaving you sitting upright at a right angle, just like other lawn chairs do.

So, if your Adirondack chairs have been sitting on flat ground, move them onto a slope so they’re angled downward. Suddenly, you’ll find that they’re much more comfortable than you originally thought.

The post Think Adirondack Chairs Are Uncomfortable? You’re Using Them Wrong appeared first on Family Handyman.

Should You Mulch Leaves or Bag Them?

Laurie M Nichols — Mon, 11 Nov 2024 19:45:22 +0000

Fall is here, and with it comes the task of leaf cleanup. If you’re in New England like me, that often means several weekends of raking, piling and bagging leaves. This year, I’m considering mulching them with my lawn tractor instead. Both bagging and mulching have their pros and cons, each affecting your lawn’s health in different ways. In this article, we’ll break down the benefits and drawbacks of each method, with expert insights from Jeremy Martin of Willow Gates Landscaping.

What Is Mulching Leaves?

Mulching leaves means to cut them into small pieces to reduce their volume and hasten decomposition. Mulched leaves are typically returned to the soil, but can be bagged up and removed.

How to Mulch Leaves

You can use a lawn mower or leaf mulcher to mulch leaves.

With the bag off your lawn mower, go over the leaves as though cutting the lawn. The blades will shred the leaves into small pieces, then distribute them across your lawn. Mulching works well for light leaf litter that doesn’t exceed the mower deck, but thick layers can overwhelm the blades and cause the mower to shut down. To avoid this, mulch regularly as leaves accumulate.

A leaf mulcher is a power tool that shreds leaves with blades or string. Handheld models suck in leaves and collect the shredded material in attached bags, making them ideal for small amounts of leaves. Larger stand-alone models require raking and piling leaves but can quickly handle larger volumes.

Pros and Cons of Mulching Leaves

Mulching leaves with a mower adds nutrients like phosphorous, nitrogen and potassium to the soil as the leaves break down. Smaller pieces of leaves also add organic matter to the soil, promoting moisture retention.

On the other hand, if mulched leaves are too thick on your lawn, it can smother grass and kill it. “They will form a wet, dense mat,” Martin says. And if you like a pristine lawn free of all debris, you will not like mulching leaves into your grass.

Pros and Cons of Bagging Leaves

Bagging leaves makes it easier to contain and transport leaves for disposal. Some municipalities even offer curbside pickup of bagged leaves. Raking and bagging leaves also protects your lawn from layers of decaying leaves, which can harm the grass through the winter. And for a tidy lawn, nothing beats bagging leaves.

However, raking and bagging leaves is more time-consuming than mulching, and it can also be more expensive if you’re buying bags or paying for disposal. Plus, by bagging, your lawn misses out on the natural nutrients that mulched leaves would provide.

Mulching vs. Bagging Leaves: Which Is Right for Me?

“It’s really situational,” Jeremy Martin of Willow Gates Landscaping says of mulching vs bagging leaves. It will largely depend on the amount of leaves you can expect each fall. “If you live in dense woods as I do, mulching leaves will kill the lawn,” he says. In this case, you’ll need to bag leaves or blow them off the property into the woods.

If you only have a few trees and a moderate amount of leaf cleanup, you have the option of mulching your leaves or bagging them. “If you don’t have a lot of trees, you can mulch leaves, and you’d be fine,” Martin says.

About the Expert

Jeremy Martin is owner of Willow Gates Landscaping in Mohnton, Pennsylvania, which he founded in 2005. He shares his passion for the industry by teaching installer courses for retaining walls, concrete pavers, permeable pavers and advance hardscape projects, plus speaking at industry events.

The post Should You Mulch Leaves or Bag Them? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Tired of Raking Leaves? Plant These Trees Instead

Laurie M Nichols — Mon, 11 Nov 2024 17:11:04 +0000

Why Do Trees Lose Their Leaves?

Trees typically lose their leaves seasonally before the winter to conserve water and energy during the dormant winter months. Shedding leaves is also a protective strategy for trees. With fewer surfaces for snow and ice to cling to, there’s less risk of broken or damaged branches. Empty branches also allow winter winds to easily pass through.

Trees will also lose their leaves when they are diseased or stressed.

Are There Any Leafy Trees That Don’t Lose Their Leaves?

Unfortunately, there aren’t any deciduous or leafy trees that don’t lose their leaves. So, if you’re looking to avoid a big fall cleanup, you’ll have to turn to evergreen trees. These trees have needles instead of leaves and stay, well, evergreen all year long. While they do shed their needles, it’s a slower process throughout the year instead of a single event each fall, making it less noticeable.

That’s not to say that evergreens can’t make a mess. White Pines experience a significant shedding of needles in the fall, produce large amounts of pollen, and also drop pitch, a sticky substance, along with pine cones. Among the least messy evergreens, consider Arbor Vitae and Blue Spruce trees.

Deciduous Trees You Can Plant for a Low-Maintenance Yard

While there may not be any trees that don’t lose their leaves, there are some that create less mess.

Japanese Maple

Able to grow in USDA Zones 5 to 8, the Japanese Maple is a mid-sized (33 ft. maximum height) tree that produces beautiful star-shaped leaves. The leaves are small and light, making clean-up efforts less strenuous. “Likewise, the flowers and the fruit, a pair of small, winged samaras, disappear with one pass of the lawnmower,” Corbett says.

Red Bud

Red Bud trees have a maximum height of 25 feet, so they produce fewer leaves that will later drop. The leaves they do produce are an attractive heart shape that turns a brilliant yellow before dropping in the fall. “Even if it had an abundance of leaves, one can’t complain about heart-shaped leaves,” Corbett says. “And the fruit are flattened pea-like pods, which the lawn mower easily removes.”

Dogwood

Another mid-sized tree that only grows to 33 feet, Dogwood trees are cherished for their spring blooms throughout Zones 5 to 9. With its shorter stature, you get all the benefits of a tree without excessive fall cleanup. Dogwoods do produce berries, but “birds love [them], which makes them disappear quickly,” Corbett says.

Ginkgo Biloba

Grown in USDA Hardiness Zones 3 to 8, Ginkgo Biloba trees reach 80 feet tall with a large canopy and fan-shaped leaves. Male Ginkgo trees are a better option if you’re after less mess, as female trees of the species drop seeds in the fall. Unlike most deciduous trees that lose leaves slowly, Ginkgo trees drop all their leaves in one day, making cleanup quicker.

About the Expert

Joyce Corbett is the owner of Classic Courtyards in West Springfield, Massachusetts. She has over forty years of landscaping design and installation experience.

The post Tired of Raking Leaves? Plant These Trees Instead appeared first on Family Handyman.

Lawn Care Maintenance and Repair | Family Handyman

10 Water-Saving Tips for Your Garden and Yard

Choose drought-tolerant plants

Add a rain barrel (or two)

Mulch well

Plant native shrubs

Add organic matter to soil

Replace grass with ground cover

Install a smart irrigation system

Raise the mower height

Only water during ideal conditions

Plant a low-water lawn alternative

About the Experts

10 Weeds With Purple Flowers

Burdock

Fleabane

Wild Violet

Purple Deadknettle

Chicory

Creeping Speedwell

Heal-all

Comfrey

Aster

Ground Ivy

About the Experts

Sources

Here’s How Much Water Your Grass Really Needs

How Much Should I Water My Lawn?

What Factors Influence How Much To Water My Lawn?

Lawn type

Lawn age

Season

Soil composition

Other environmental conditions

How Much Should I Water a Newly Seeded Lawn​?

Signs You Are Underwatering Your Lawn

What Are The Signs I Am Overwatering My Lawn?

Tips To Avoid Overwatering a Lawn

About the Experts

Lawn Care Playbook: How To Supercharge Your Yard This Season

Tools and Materials

Prepping for Spring and Summer

Seeding

Mowing

Watering

Fertilizer

Crabgrass and Weeds

Brown Patches

Fall and winter maintenance

About the Experts

12 Weeds That Are Actually Attractive

Mullein

Chicory

Creeping Buttercups

Yarrow

Burdock

Scarlet Pimpernel

Goldenrod

Milkweed

Queen Anne’s Lace or Wild Carrot

White Clover

Wild Roses

Fleabane

About the Experts

Lawn Care Confessions: Unfiltered Truths & Trade Secrets Behind Perfect Lawns

It All Starts With The Soil

Tips For A Lush, Healthy Lawn From Turf Pros

Aeration

Pre-Emergent

Proper Mowing

Adequate Watering

Organic Fertilizers

Probiotics

LawnTok

For A True Show-Stopping Lawn, Think Beyond Grass

About the Experts

Lawn Lords

Weeds: Stop the Spread

Grass Growth

Landscaping Wisdom

How Much Should I Water a Newly Seeded Lawn?