Outdoor Equipment, Projects and Ideas | Family Handyman

DIY Hypertufa Planters With This Step-by-Step Guide

Carmen De La Paz — Fri, 02 May 2025 18:09:57 +0000

My experience playing with Hypertufa extends over many years. I say playing because the creative opportunities are endless. I have made everything from water features to Buddha heads out of Hypertufa. Planters are an excellent introduction to hypertufa as a material, so let’s walk through the steps for making a hypertufa planter from scratch.

What is hypertufa?

Hypertufa is an easy DIY cement mix made with Portland cement that is lighter than traditional cement mixtures. Hypertufa is durable. It can live outdoors and lends itself to either a smooth, polished look or a rough, rustic texture. The secret to the finish is in the mold you use. The secret to living outdoors, at freezing temperatures, is in the ratio of the mix. Hypertufa conforms like clay, can take on many forms and is inexpensive. Here is a wonderful introduction to Portland cement and the possibilities it holds.

Select the hypertufa mold

The mold will determine the final finish and texture of the hypertufa planter in which it is cast. For a smooth, polished appearance, choose a plastic tub with a smooth, shiny finish. If you want a textured look like us, line a plastic tub with a plastic liner. Allow the wrinkles to form in the plastic liner and embed into the wet hypertufa cement.

Mix the hypertufa ingredients

Mix together the dry ingredients: two quarts perlite, two quarts peat moss and two quarts Portland cement. The dry Portland cement and peat moss tend to clump and become difficult to break down when you add water, so sift them through a 1/2-in. steel mesh screen first.

Once sifted, to ensure even distribution of materials, mix the dry material by hand or with a garden shovel to blend well.

Slowly add water

Slowly add water as you thoroughly mix the materials. It is important not to overwet the mix. Shoot for a consistency like a thick brownie mix. If you can make a ball out of the mix and it stays in shape, you’ve added the right amount of water.

Transfer the Hypertufa mix into the plastic tub

Put on a pair of plastic gloves and transfer the hypertufa mix into the plastic-lined tub. Start by building up at least an inch of Hypertufa mix on the bottom of the tub for the base, and work your way up the tub’s sides to create walls at least an inch thick.

Bore out a drain hole

Every planter needs a drain hole to ensure proper drainage and prevent root rot. With a wood dowel or your finger, create a one-inch-ish drain hole in the bottom of the planter. Depending on the size of your planter, you may opt for two holes six to nine inches apart.

Finishing touches

This is the last opportunity to shape and form the wet hypertufa mix. Whatever stage you leave it in now is how it will dry and cure. Be sure to smooth out the top lip of the planter, make sure corners are defined and all four walls are about the same thickness.

Cure for 24 hours

Fold the plastic liner over the top of the hypertufa and leave it in the mold to cure for 24-hours. If your plastic mold container has a lid, use this as well. The plastic liner and/or lid will prevent moisture from escaping too quickly and slow down drying time. Slowing down the drying time will help prevent the hypertufa from developing cracks and weakening the planter.

De-mold and clean up

De-molding is easy when using a non-porous plastic tub like ours. But if you decide to use another porous material (such as wood) in the future, you will want to use a lubricant such as vegetable or olive oil sprayed or brushed on the mold.

When mixing Portland cement with Perlite and peat moss, you may find small loose particles of these elements attached to the outer surface but not fully embedded. To clean loose bits of material, use a wire brush to remove them. This step is more about aesthetics than it is about the durability of the planter. It’s about the look you like.

Complete the drying process

Once the planter has been de-molded, it will still not be dry. You will want to continue the slow drying process by wrapping the whole planter in plastic for five to seven days and misting it with water every 24 hours. You will know it is dry when it looks even in color, and no moisture is visible. Moisture can be detected by uneven, darker grey spots in the Hypertufa.

While drying, the drain hole may become glazed over with a thin layer of cement. Use a dowel or screwdriver to clean it out before the drying process.

Transition to a tub of water

The last step is to ensure your planter is no longer holding the lime from the cement. Lime can mix into your potting soil and hurt your plants. To allow the lime to leach out, submerge the entire planter in a tub of water for seven days.

Remove planter from water, Rinse off and plant

To ensure any remnants of Lime have been removed from the planter, give it a good rinse before adding dirt and planting.

FAQ

What is the difference between concrete and cement?

Concrete is cement with an aggregate of sand and gravel added to it for strength. Cement is just the Portland cement powder. It becomes concrete when you add sand and gravel.

Does Hypertufa work with water for water features?

Yes, Hypertufa is often used for water features and is well-suited to water exposure. If your water feature will be exposed to freezing temperatures, be sure to add sand to the mix to help prevent cracking.

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How To Start Seeds Indoors in 8 Simple Steps

Carmen De La Paz — Wed, 30 Apr 2025 19:55:28 +0000

Planting seeds seems basic, and it is. Dirt. Water. Seeds. However, options must be considered, and some knowledge must be applied for guaranteed success and diminished failures in the form of sprouts worthy of going in your yard and maturing to harvest.

Starting seeds indoors has benefits for different reasons. Some vegetables, like tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, brussels sprouts, kale, lettuce, celery, cucumbers, summer squash, and most herbs, are referred to as “tender plants” because they can’t tolerate cold temperatures. Other vegetables, like artichokes, eggplant, and peppers, require a long growing season and will benefit from being started indoors to maximize harvest time. Overlapping with some of the above, some of these vegetables have slower root development, like peppers, eggplants, cauliflower, and celery. Starting these indoors allows for more growing time and makes them more likely to succeed when they are planted in the vegetable garden.

There are also plants that do not transplant well and are best started in the garden (or outdoors in larger containers). These include cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, and squash. These are all tender, however, so refrain from sowing them outdoors while frost is still a threat.

No matter the reason, most plants and vegetables can only win by being started indoors. Research the specific plant and seeds as you develop your green thumb. Here are the steps for starting your seeds, along with some tips to have a bountiful harvest right in your backyard, perhaps starting in your basement or kitchen window. Cheers to your green thumb!

When to start seeds indoors

I have provided a reference for when to start seeds indoors for some of my favorite vegetables. The following are the times needed for each seed to grow into a transplantable plant for the start of the outdoor growing season.

Artichokes: 8-10 weeks
Brussels sprouts: 4-6 weeks
Eggplant: 8-10 weeks
Peppers: 8 weeks
Tomatoes: 6-8 weeks

Soil to start seeds

Combine one part compost, one part vermiculite, and two parts coconut coir for an easy seed-starting potting mix. It is also acceptable to purchase seed-starting potting soil from a garden center.

Whether you make your own potting soil mixture or purchase some, it is usually fully dry. Add water to hydrate it. This will cause the soil to inflate and make it easier to break apart. Once it becomes soft and pliable, break it up with your hands or a small garden shovel, making sure all of the mix is hydrated and fluffy.

Tip: Make sure the soil is moist before planting seeds to prevent them from being displaced or sinking too deeply into the soil mix.

Transfer the soil mixture

Fill potting trays or two-inch organic pods with the soil mixture. Fill to the top, but don’t compact the soil mix down too tightly. You want the seeds to have room to sprout without a lot of effort or energy spent finding their way.

Tip: Cardboard toilet paper rolls work wonderfully as a potting reservoir because they are organic, allow moisture to pass through, and are small enough to make a seed feel snug.

Plant the seeds

Excavate a hole in the center of the potting mix with the handle of your garden shovel or a small seed sowing tool. Be sure to read the specifications for each seed type to determine the depth.

You want your seeds deep enough to be covered and shallow enough to allow the shoot to find its way up and out of the dirt. Some seeds make it easy to determine which side of the seed is up and which is down. If detectable, place the seed so the roots easily grow into the dirt and the sprout easily finds its way up.

Label your seeds

Use plant tags and a permanent marker and label your seeds. You may think you will remember which each is, but you may easily get them confused. It is crucial to know which sprouts are which to continue with the ideal light, water and temperature environment for a successful harvest.

Mist with water

After planting the seeds, you may lightly mist the soil mixture. Use a gentle spray of water to avoid displacing the seeds. You should also ensure an easy drainage path for the water to drain through the seed trays or pots.

Place on a heat mat

Seeds need warmth to grow—between 65 and 70 degrees F is ideal. Heating mats ensure the dirt is at an optimal temperature for growth. For this reason, plants should not be placed in the ground outdoors until the ground temperature is at a level that will allow the seeds to grow and flourish.

Once you have planted the seeds, place them on a heating mat until they sprout and start showing their first leaf, called cotyledons. Once you see these emerge, you can place the tray under light for 12 – 16 hours daily.

Introduce a grow light

Once the cotyledons have emerged, you may introduce grow lights. Seedlings need 12 to 16 hours of light daily. Place the grow lights about 4 inches away from the sprouts until they are ready to begin hardening for outdoor transplantation. Make sure the grow lights are not touching the leaves.

Start fertilizing

Once the sprouts develop true leaves, start fertilizing until they are ready to be transplanted. Fertilize sprouts every two weeks with ocean water (rich in nutrients) or a balanced fertilizer to encourage good roots and healthy growth. If using a water-soluble fertilizer, it is very important to use it diluted to one-half the normal strength.

FAQ

When it comes to starting seeds, what is a blackout period?

A blackout period, mostly used when growing microgreens, is a time when seeds or microgreens are kept in complete darkness to encourage specific growth processes. The length of the blackout period (two to seven days) depends on the variety of microgreens and the desired outcome. The blackout period encourages the development of root systems and longer stems, making the microgreens more tender and flavorful.

What does it mean to sacrifice a seed?

Some seeds, like beans, must be scratched (scarified) and soaked for 24 hours before planting. This will allow moisture to enter the seed and activate germination. This is easily done by scratching the outer layer and placing it in a Ziploc bag with water before putting it in the soil mix.

Why do some seeds (especially flowers) require refrigeration before planting?

Many wildflowers or plants that usually spend the winter buried in the ground getting ready for the spring need to experience cold stratification before planting. To replicate this cold period, this may be done by placing the seeds into the refrigerator or placing the seed packet outside for at least a month.

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10 Water-Saving Tips for Your Garden and Yard

Laurie M Nichols — Wed, 30 Apr 2025 16:25:30 +0000

Water, like everything else these days, is getting more expensive. In my town, the rate per gallon has more than doubled over the past two years, with another increase expected next year. Beyond the rising cost, water is a limited resource that deserves thoughtful use by both homeowners and municipalities.

To do your part and save some money in the process, opt for water-saving strategies and practices when planning and cultivating lawns and gardens. Ahead, we share ten practical water-saving tips, with input from two lawn and garden experts: Ryan Mange from CMS Landscaping and Joe Churchill from Reinders.

Choose drought-tolerant plants

This tip applies to lawns and gardens. When planting lawns, choose drought-tolerant grass seed types like buffalo grass, tall fescue or fine fescue, which require less watering once established. In garden beds, opt for drought-tolerant plants such as lavender, yarrow, salvia and black-eyed Susan to reduce the need for watering.

Add a rain barrel (or two)

Attached to your home’s gutter system, rain barrels make it easy to divert rainwater to your garden or lawn. I always have at least one rain barrel on my property and use it to water my flower containers. It’s a simple way to cut down on municipal water use, especially during dry spells. Even a single storm can fill a barrel, providing a free and sustainable water source for days.

Mulch well

“Proper mulching of plants and garden beds helps reduce water loss due to evaporation and retain water in root zones of trees, shrubs and other garden plants,” Mange says. “Three to four inches of mulch is plenty, and be sure not to pile it up around the trunks of trees and shrubs.” Organic mulches like wood chips, straw or shredded leaves can also improve soil quality over time as they break down.

Plant native shrubs

In the garden, choose native plants shrubs and perennial flowers. These set deep root systems and are more likely to ride out a dry spell. Native plants are also better adapted to local soil and climate conditions, which means they typically need less water, fertilizer and maintenance overall. Choosing the right plants can make a big difference in water usage.

Add organic matter to soil

“Organic material in the soil provides sites for both water and nutrients to adhere and be available for roots or plants,” Mange says. If your soil is hard and dry, consider amending it with compost or aged manure. This not only improves water retention but also enhances soil structure and supports healthier root growth.

Replace grass with ground cover

Ground covers like pachysandra, vinka vine and ivy require little maintenance once established, and need little to no water. The areas of pachysandra in my yard have never been watered and look great year after year.

Install a smart irrigation system

A smart irrigation system includes ground sensors placed strategically throughout your lawn. “These sensors will sense when the soil under your lawn is dry and will engage the system only when water is needed. And, just as importantly, tell your irrigation system when it’s not needed and can take the day (or two or three) off,” Churchill says. These systems “lead to precise usage and way less waste and runoff than older irrigation systems or watering with a garden hose,” Mange says.

Raise the mower height

Longer grass blades shade the soil and reduce evaporation caused by direct sun exposure by keep the ground cooler during hot weather. In addition, maintaining a taller grass height encourages deeper root growth, which improves the lawn’s drought resistance over time. Raise your mower deck to 4-in. for cooler-weather grass and to 3-in. for warm weather grass.

Only water during ideal conditions

Early morning is generally considered the best time to water, as temperatures are cool and the grass has time to absorb the water through the day. “Try to stay away from watering during the midday when ambient temps are hot, and it may be windy,” Churchill says. If temperatures are 85 degrees or higher, most of the water evaporates before hitting the ground. This is Watering on windy days prevents water from reaching its intended target.

Plant a low-water lawn alternative

Low-water lawn alternatives are becoming increasingly popular in water-scarce climates like California and Arizona. While initial installation costs can be expensive, artificial lawns offer the benefits of real grass without any need to water. Another option is to plant grass-like ground covers like clover, creeping thyme and buffalo grass that stay green, can handle minor foot traffic and require little to no water.

About the Experts

Joe Churchill is a Senior Turf Specialist with Wisconsin-based Reinders, a major distributor of lawn care products in the Midwest. He has over 25 years of experience in the turfgrass industry, is certified in Turfgrass Management with a B.A. in Geography and Horticulture from the University of Minnesota.
Ryan Mange is a Lawn/Plant Health Manager at CMS Landscaping, a full-service lawn care and irrigation company in Holyoke, Massachusetts. He is also an International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) Certified Arborist.

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10 Weeds With Purple Flowers

Laurie M Nichols — Wed, 30 Apr 2025 16:04:34 +0000

Burdock

With large, rough-textured leaves, burdock has distinctive, fast-growing foliage and pretty purple or pink flowers that look like thistles. The flowers later turn into burrs that cling to animals and clothing, helping the plant to spread prolifically. Growing to 4 to 5 feet tall in a single season, burdock is “considered invasive in North America, especially in the Pacific Northwest and Midwest,” Singh says. Manual removal is the best way to control burdock in your garden.

Fleabane

Fleabane resembles miniature daisies with their small purple, pink or white petaled flowers with yellow centers and long, narrow pointed leaves. Fleabane can be found in fields and roadsides, where it can rapidly spread and form clusters, especially in full sun. While not overly aggressive, fleabane will need management in a garden setting to control its spreading habit.

Besides its pretty purple flowers, fleabane can also be used as a bug repellant. “The leaves release compounds that are believed to help keep unwanted insects at bay,” Singh says. “It has been used to deter pests, including fleas (thus the name).”

Wild Violet

A low-growing ground cover, wild violet has heart-shaped leaves and small purple or white flowers. Violet can be quite invasive in lawns and garden beds. “Since they are perennials and readily produce large amounts of viable seed, these plants can become problematic and remain that way for quite a while if not managed early on,” Schmitz says. “Control can be difficult, depending on your comfort level with using chemicals.” I’ve found broadleaf weed killer to be the most effective method for controlling wild violet in my lawn.

Purple Deadknettle

Purple deadknettle produces small purple flowers and jagged, heart-shaped leaves that emerge from a single, central stem. Part of the mint family, it is a low-growing plant of 2 to 8 inches. One of the earliest plants to emerge in the spring, purple deadknettle is also an important food source for pollinators. “These plants are easily controlled via hand weeding in beds and rarely become an issue in turf because they are intolerant of mowing heights,” Schmitz says. “If you can tolerate them early in the season, it wouldn’t be a bad thing to let the bees have their fill before pulling these plants as other flowers come into bloom.”

Chicory

Often found in fields, meadows and along roadsides, chicory can be an attractive addition to a wildflower garden as well. Drought-tolerant and low-maintenance, it has delicate stems with purplish-blue, daisy-like flowers.

Chicory is considered an invasive plant in parts of the U.S. and can quickly take over if not carefully managed. “This stuff appears all over the place here in Maryland, where I live,” Singh says. “I see it pop up in different areas of my yard, near the driveway and along the road throughout the state.” Chicory also has medicinal properties and can be used as a coffee substitute.

Creeping Speedwell

This fast-growing ground cover produces small, purplish blue flowers on delicate stems. The opposite-oriented leaves have a rose-bud appearance on new growth and can be an attractive addition to a garden. Considered invasive in some states, creeping speedwell can become problematic if not closely tended to. It is very hardy and drought-resistant, and will grow in large patches reaching 3 feet wide.

Heal-all

Heal-all produces tall, cone-shaped clusters of small, purple or pink flowers on the top of single stems with oval, serrated leaves. A low-growing plant, the flower stems stand a bit taller than the foliage, at 6 to 12 inches. An attractive addition to gardens, Heal-all is a spreading ground cover that will need to be managed to prevent a takeover. “If left unchecked, this plant can form masses of plants and stolons stretching out along the ground. It can be pulled by hand, but it is a laborious task,” Schmitz says. “Chemical applications are able to control this plant rather effectively.”

Comfrey

With thick foliage consisting of spear-like, broad leaves, comfrey can be quite a presence in a garden, reaching heights of 2 to 4 feet. The real draw, however, is the clusters of drooping, bell-shaped purple, blue or pink flowers. If you want to add this to your pollinator garden, it will reach full size in a single season. However, it can be difficult to manage once established. Comfrey can thrive in less than ideal soils, and is drought-tolerant due to its deep tap taproots so it can be difficult to remove.

Aster

Another weed with purple flowers that is great for pollinators, asters produce small, star-shaped purple or white petaled flowers with yellow centers. They have slender, delicate leaves and stems with a clumping growth habit and can grow 2 to 4 feet tall. While not a rapid grower, once established Aster will spread through underground rhizomes. However, aster is a manageable plant in gardens, only requiring occasional splitting and cutting back.

Ground Ivy

Also known as Creeping Charlie, this opportunistic ground cover is commonly found in lawns and disturbed soil. Ground ivy produces small, purplish blue flowers and has foliage that mimics the look of clover. “It has the same square stems and attracts pollinators like other mints do, but there are few other redeeming qualities about this plant,” Schmitz says. “It crawls across the ground, rooting as it goes, creating an insidious sprawling mass of vines.” Manual removal and targeted broadleaf herbicide applications are the best methods to control this weed in beds and lawns.

About the Experts

Samuel Schmitz is a full-time faculty instructor in the Horticulture Department at Triton College in Illinois. He was formerly Ground Operations Supervisor for Ball Horticultural Company for 16 years.
Trisha Singh is the Vice President of Product at Garden for Wildlife, a program run by the National Wildlife Federation, which encourages wildlife-friendly gardening spaces. Trisha is a wildlife biologist who enjoys native plant gardening and helping to support others in their native gardening pursuits.

Sources

Clemson College of Agriculture, Forestry and Life Sciences, “Heal-all“

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Hairy Bittercress: How to Identify and Get Rid of It

Gemma Johnstone — Mon, 28 Apr 2025 19:40:36 +0000

Hairy bittercress is a fast-spreading, cool-season weed that can quickly overtake your lawn if you don’t take the right precautions. Fortunately, with the right maintenance and preventative measures, you can keep this superabundant spreader from turning your grass from lush to lacking. I spoke with three turfgrass experts to get their tips for preventing and controlling hairy bittercress.

What Is Hairy Bittercress?

Hairy bittercress (Cardamine hirsuta), or Lamb’s cress, flickweed, spring cress, or wood cress, is a low-growing, fast-spreading annual weed. Lawn care professional John D. Steiner explains that the plant belongs to the mustard family and thrives in cool, moist, shaded environments.

Hairy bittercress is native to Europe and Western Asia but has naturalized throughout much of North America. It grows readily in USDA hardiness zones 4 to 8. While it’s a winter weed that’s most prolific from late fall through early spring, it can linger year-round when conditions are ideal.

What Does Hairy Bittercress Look Like?

Are you unsure if it’s weedy, hairy bittercress emerging in your lawn? Steiner explains that this small, low-growing plant features pinnately compound leaves that divide into smaller, rounded or kidney-shaped leaflets.

“The plant produces small, white, four-petaled flowers, which develop into slender, elongated seed pods that burst open when mature, dispersing seeds explosively,” he says. Developing like a dandelion in a basal rosette, the leaves range from half an inch to one inch in size, and the flowers reach 3 to 9 inches tall.

Why Is Hairy Bittercress a Problem?

“Hairy Bittercress can be difficult to control due to its rapid lifecycle and high seed production,” Steiner says. “It completes its life cycle in just a few weeks, allowing multiple generations per year in favorable conditions.” He explains that even when conditions aren’t ideal, the seeds can remain viable for years in the soil, making eliminating these weeds from your lawn challenging.

Hairy bittercress seed pods, known as silique, contain as many as 30 seeds. When ejected from the pod, the seeds can land up to 16 feet away. This means you might treat one patch of lawn, only to discover these plants popping up on a separate patch later in the season. Plus, the seeds don’t have any dormancy requirements (a period of time when the seeds can’t germinate—even when conditions are right), and they germinate rapidly, reaching maturity and reseeding within five weeks.

The small, sticky seeds cling to containers and the underside of shoes, so you might not realize you’re bringing them home from a nursery or riverside walk, allowing them to spread into your yard sneakily.

How To Prevent Hairy Bittercress

Fortunately, there are some simple strategies you can employ to help prevent hairy bittercress from taking over your lawn or borders.

Promote a healthy lawn

A thick, healthy lawn not only looks good, it blocks out the light and space that hairy bittercress seeds need to germinate.

Plant genetics expert Matthew Koch recommends using a 3-in-1 grass seed, fertilizer and soil improver mix to help fix a patchy lawn. He also cautions against overwatering and suggests aerating your soil to break up compacted ground and improve drainage. “Since hairy bittercress prefers damp conditions, addressing excess moisture can make your lawn less hospitable to it,” he says.

Plant a dense ground cover

If you’re worried about hairy bittercress taking hold in non-lawn areas of your landscape, consider selecting a densely growing, low-maintenance ground cover, like thyme, that can choke out those unwanted weeds. Another option is to add a deep layer of coarse-textured mulch or some gravel.

Avoid spread from nursery plants and pots

Always wash out any nursery containers you plan to reuse to minimize the chance of stowaway sticky seeds spreading to your soil. Also, before planting any new greenhouse-propagated plants, check their soil for signs of germinating hairy bittercress sitting alongside them.

Minimize soil disturbance

Steiner recommends only digging or tilling your garden when absolutely necessary. “Disturbing the soil can bring buried seeds to the surface, triggering germination,” he says.

How To Get Rid of Hairy Bittercress

If your preventative strategies haven’t kept hairy bittercress at bay, here are some methods for getting rid of this weed.

Pre-emergence control

Applying a pre-emergence weed control product in late summer or early fall prevents those persistent seeds from germinating. “Several pre-products (dithiopyr, isoxaben, and oryzalin) have activity on hairy bittercress in turfgrass,” Professor and Extension Turfgrass Specialist Grady L. Miller says. Application instructions vary, so always carefully read the label, and don’t expect these products to work on emerged plants.

Post-emergence control

When you want to get rid of hairy bittercress that’s already established, you can apply selective or non-selective weed control products. “Post control can be achieved with several applications of mixtures of 2,4-D, carfentrazone, dicamba, MCPP, MCPA and/or sulfentrazone,” Miller says. “Other post options included atrazine/simazine (where appropriate/labeled), imazaquin, metribuzin, metsulfuron, triclopyr (alone or in combination with other broadleaf control products such as fluroxypyr or 2,4-D).”

It’s best to apply these products before the plant produces seeds, and always check the label for application instructions and to ensure it’s suitable for use on your lawn.

Pulling manually

Pulling these shallow-rooted weeds by hand or with a tool is a more time-consuming, physical removal method, but it’s a natural way to kill weeds and means you won’t risk damaging the surrounding lawn or ornamental species.

“Hand-pulling is most effective in moist soil when the roots can be easily extracted,” Steiner says. He also recommends doing this before plants flower and set seeds.

Regular mowing

Don’t panic if you’re not quick enough with chemical controls and there are too many hairy bittercress plants on your lawn to pull manually. “Regular mowing before the plant flowers prevents its seed pods from exploding and spreading seeds,” Koch says.

FAQ

Is hairy bittercress poisonous to animals?

Hairy bittercress is not poisonous to animals, so you don’t have to worry about your dog or pet rabbit nibbling on any untreated weeds appearing on your lawn. The leaves are actually edible, and their mild, peppery flavor makes them popular salad additions.

About the Experts

Matthew Koch is the Director of Biotechnology, Genetics, and Seed at Scotts and has a PhD in plant genetics and breeding from Rutgers University.
John D. Steiner is the Regional Manager for NaturaLawn of America. He is a licensed, seasoned lawn care professional with over 38 years of experience.
Grady L. Miller, PhD, is a Professor and Extension Turfgrass Specialist in the Crop and Soil Sciences Department at North Carolina State University. His research activities are centered on cultivar evaluation, irrigation practices, turfgrass nutrition, and athletic field maintenance practices.

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Here’s How Much Water Your Grass Really Needs

Gemma Johnstone — Mon, 28 Apr 2025 19:31:53 +0000

Before I started learning about landscaping, I always thought the more the merrier was a good mantra when considering how much to water my lawn. However, overwatering can be as much of a problem as underwatering for turfgrasses, both leading to yellowing and other lawn health issues.

I spoke with two turfgrass experts to understand how much to water lawns to keep them looking lush and what factors influence watering frequency and volume.

How Much Should I Water My Lawn?

“Most lawns require about 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation,” John Kaminski, Associate Professor of Turfgrass Management in the College of Agricultural Sciences at the Pennsylvania State University, explains. Also, it’s best to water deeply and slowly once or twice a week rather than a light daily watering, which won’t support the development of deep grass roots.

However, while this is a helpful guide, the optimal amount and frequency depend on various factors.

What Factors Influence How Much To Water My Lawn?

Grass species, soil composition and seasonal conditions all play a part in how much to water your lawn.

Lawn type

The species of turfgrass you select can influence how much you water your lawn at different times of the year. “Cool-season grasses (like Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue) tend to need more water during hot, dry summers,” Kaminski says. “Whereas warm-season grasses (like bermudagrass or zoysiagrass) are more drought-tolerant, but still benefit from consistent moisture in peak summer.

Lawn age

A newly seeded lawn requires more frequent, shallower watering than an established lawn.

Season

Slow, deep watering once or twice a week is usually ideal during the summer months. “This approach encourages grass to develop a deeper root system, making it more resilient to heat and drought,” Kaminski says. He recommends allowing the water to penetrate at least 6 to 8 inches into the soil. “In spring and fall, when temperatures are cooler, you can usually cut back on watering unless it’s particularly dry,” he says.

Soil composition

Fast-draining sandy soils may need more water, more regularly than slow-draining clay soils, which hold moisture for longer.

Other environmental conditions

While you would expect to give more water in hot, dry regions, it’s not just temperatures that affect the rate of water required for your lawn.

“The most important [environmental] conditions are radiant energy (sunlight), atmospheric vapor pressure (relative humidity), temperature, wind movement, and available soil moisture,” Grady Miller, professor and extension turf grass specialist, explains. “Minimal water is used under dark, cloudy days with high relative humidity, low temperatures, and little to no wind.”

You need to provide the most water for your lawn during bright sunny spells with low relative humidity, high temperatures and moderate to high winds.

How Much Should I Water a Newly Seeded Lawn?

When watering new grass seeds, you need to do this frequently and shallowly. This ensures even moisture on the soil surface, allowing the seeds to germinate and establish roots. “[Watering] 2 to 3 times per day for the first couple weeks helps prevent the seedbed from drying out,” Kaminski says. “Once the seedlings emerge and begin developing roots, you can gradually reduce the frequency and increase the depth of watering to encourage deeper root growth.”

Signs You Are Underwatering Your Lawn

While yellow or brown patches on your lawn are well-known signs that it isn’t getting enough water, it’s good to look for earlier signs you are underwatering. That allows you to remedy things before you need to fix a patchy lawn.

Kaminski suggests looking for subtle signs of wilting and discoloration. “Grass blades that turn a dull bluish-green or begin to curl are often moisture-stressed,” he says.

He also recommends the “footprint test.” “If your footprints stay visible on the lawn for more than a few minutes, it’s a sign the grass isn’t springing back and may need water.”

What Are The Signs I Am Overwatering My Lawn?

Signs of an overwatered lawn can be similar to an underwatered one—in that it can also turn yellow and develop bare patches. However, it can also be more soggy-looking and weed or fungi-infested. Plus, a layer of thatch can develop more rapidly, as the excess water prevents the soil and grass from effectively breaking down the plant material buildup.

Kaminski says you might also see water run off onto paths and driveways, as your soggy lawn can’t absorb more moisture effectively.

Tips To Avoid Overwatering a Lawn

Overwatering is one of the most common lawn mistakes. Follow these tips to prevent this from causing shallow root growth, disease development and water wastage.

Install a rain sensor or smart irrigation controller: Kaminski explains that these adjust water amounts to account for weather changes.
Use a rain gauge: This allows you to measure how much water your lawn is receiving.
Check your soil: “If it feels soggy or water is pooling, dial it back,” Kaminski says.
Water early in the morning: Your lawn is active at this time and will absorb the water it needs. Any excess can evaporate off during the hotter part of the day.

About the Experts

John Kaminski, PhD, is an Associate Professor of Turfgrass Management in the College of Agricultural Sciences at the Pennsylvania State University.
Grady L. Miller, PhD, is a Professor and Extension Turfgrass Specialist in the Crop and Soil Sciences Department at North Carolina State University.

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The Dos and Don’ts of Siphoning Fluids

Chris Deziel — Wed, 23 Apr 2025 21:18:06 +0000

I used to own a lightweight hot tub that you could just roll into position and fill with a garden hose, but to use it, I needed to know how to siphon fluids — specifically water. That’s because the tub didn’t have a drain. It was super easy to set up, and once I plugged it into a standard outlet, it provided many days of relaxing soaks. Changing the water presented a conundrum because of the lack of a drain, but fortunately, the tub was on a deck, so I could use gravity to siphon the water onto the lawn, which very much needed it during the dry season.

According to pool pro Jeremy Yamaguchi, the problem of draining is a pretty common one for hot tub owners, and siphoning is a common solution. All in all, siphoning is a useful technique with a number of uses around the house, in the shop or on a boat. It’s good to know how to siphon fluids, and it’s knowledge that’s bound to come in handy at some point, so we asked Yamaguchi, automotive repair expert Alan Gelfand and plumber Luke Wooffindin for tips on doing it properly and safely.

Why Siphon Fluids?

Siphoning will come in handy for any container containing 10 or more gallons of water, like a storage tank or an aquarium, or is too heavy to lift (one gallon of water weighs over eight pounds). Siphoning offers a way to get the water out without having to do any lifting. It’s also the best way to empty the gas tank in your car or riding mower, to get water out of your boat or to empty your backed-up bathtub or toilet. Winemakers transfer products from fermentation barrels to smaller containers by siphoning, and property owners can use siphoning techniques to move standing water to a place from which it can drain.

Tools & Materials Needed

Approved siphon hose or garden hose
Approved container
Siphon pump

Precautions

“You should never begin to siphon hazardous fluids such as gasoline, diesel, chemicals, or any other toxic substances by mouth,” cautions Gelfand. “This can lead to accidental consumption, which can cause severe health issues or even death.” Wooffindin extends this caution to hot tub water, bilge water from a boat or any other potentially contaminated water. “Mouth siphoning is old school, but it is highly risky,” he says.

Gelfand also offers these other precautions:

Don’t siphon hot fluids.
Provide adequate ventilation when siphoning flammable fluids like gasoline.
Don’t use tubing that can be degraded by the fluid you’re siphoning.
Don’t use damaged tubing.
Never siphon petroleum products or hazardous chemicals directly onto the ground.
Prevent cross-contamination by using containers and siphoning equipment recommended for the fluid.
Know what it is you’re siphoning. “Unknown containers or fluids that one cannot identify may contain hazardous materials,” he says.

How to Siphon Fluids

When you siphon, you insert one end of a hose into a fluid receptacle, bring the other end to a lower elevation, suck air from the hose to create a vacuum that the fluid rises to fill, and gravity does the rest. As the fluid begins to flow, it creates its own suction force that pulls out all the fluid. Here’s how to siphon fluids in various situations:

Gas or hazardous chemicals from a tank

Set a container approved for the fluid on the floor under the tank outlet. The container should be large enough to hold the amount of fluid you’re siphoning.
Insert the end of a battery-powered or manual siphon pump approved for use with hazardous chemicals into the tank as far as it will go. This is no place for a garden hose, cautions Wooffindin. It will get contaminated and probably degrade.
Insert the outlet hose into the container and push it to the bottom.
Start pumping. When the fluid begins to flow, you can stop pumping and let gravity do the work.
Remove the pump when the tank is empty. Hold it aloft to allow all the fluid to drain from the hose.

Pro tip: You can also use this method to siphon contaminated water from an aquarium or similar vessel.

Water from a pool, hot tub or similarly large receptacle

This is the method pool pro Yamaguchi uses to empty pools and hot tubs:

Connect a garden hose to an outdoor faucet.
Insert the end of the hose into the water and push it to the bottom of the container. Have a helper hold it there.
Turn on the faucet to fill the hose with water, then turn it off.
Kink the hose while you disconnect it from the faucet. Maintain the kink while you bring that end to a drainage area. “Two of the most important parts are making sure the end of the hose stays at the bottom of the hot tub and making sure the kink stays firm until you intentionally release it,” says Yamaguchi. That’s why he recommends enlisting a helper.
Release the kink. As water flows, it will continue creating suction until the tub or pool is empty — as long as you keep holding the end of the hose on the bottom.

Standing water from a depression in your yard

If you can find a drainage area at a lower elevation, you can use a garden hose to siphon standing water from your yard, but in most cases, you’ll need a pump. You can use a drill pump, which creates suction by the rotary action of a drill pump, but like the hose pump, an ingenious tool that needs only water to create suction. To use one, you’ll need two garden hoses — one connected to a faucet and one that will reach from the water to a drainage area.

Place one end of the hose you use for drainage the lowest part of the pool of water you want to drain.
Bring the other end of the hose to a drainage area and connect it to the pump. A second hose connects the pump to a water faucet.
Turn on the faucet. The water flowing through the pump creates enough vacuum in the drainage hose to suck the water out of your yard.

Fun fact: This pump depends on a phenomenon known as the Venturi effect. Gas pumps use it to determine when the tank is full, and it’s tine to shut off.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

The most common mistake to avoid is sucking fluids with your mouth. Full disclosure: I’ve done that to siphon gas, and the results were highly unpleasant.

Another common boo-boo is failing to keep the end of the pump or hose on the bottom of a tub or tank while siphoning. When the hose rises above the water level and air gets in, siphoning stops, and there often isn’t enough water left to restart.

Another common mistake is failing to check the siphon hose for leaks before starting. Leaks break the vacuum and make siphoning futile.

FAQ

How to stop a siphon once started?

Pull the siphon hose or pump out of the vessel containing the fluid you’re siphoning. Alternatively, raise the end of the drainage hose until it’s high enough for the fluid to stop flowing. If you’re draining water with a garden hose, you can also kink the hose.

Which fluids are best to siphon, and which to avoid?

Water is the best candidate for siphoning, and petroleum products like gasoline, paint thinner and similar chemicals are also good candidates, as long as you use the proper equipment and observe precautions. Avoid siphoning chemicals that are strongly acidic or alkaline. You could be injured by splashes, and they will quickly degrade the hoses.

What’s the fastest way to siphon a large tank?

Yamaguchi’s method for draining a pool or hot tub, described above, will work for any large container and is the fastest way to siphon.

About the Experts

Luke Wooffindin is a licensed plumber and gas-fitter at Safeguard Plumbing in Sydney, Australia.
Alan “Ollie” Gelfand is a European car expert specializing in German automotive repairs. He operates German Car Depot in Hollywood, FL.
Jeremy Yamaguchi is the CEO of Cabana, a full-service pool maintenance and repair company based in San Diego, CA.

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Lawn Care Playbook: How To Supercharge Your Yard This Season

Laurie M Nichols — Tue, 22 Apr 2025 21:21:41 +0000

Taking care of a lawn and yard for the first time can be exciting, especially for new homeowners. However, the lack of necessary tools and know-how can be a challenge. This was me when I bought my first home. I had always rented and knew nothing, and I didn’t have any lawn tools. At first, I felt a bit overwhelmed, but with each season, I gained more confidence, knowledge and tools.

If you’re new to lawn care, don’t panic. It’s completely normal to start without all the answers. Read on for our beginner’s lawn care guide, featuring expert advice from three professionals: Joe Churchill from Reinders, Matt Cameron from CMS Landscaping and Tylor Harrington from Berkshire Turfgrass Specialists.

Tools and Materials

When starting out with lawn care, you’ll need a few basic tools.

Lawnmower: Push mowers are great for small lawns, while a ride-on tractor is better for large ones.
String trimmer: Use a string trimmer for the edges of the lawn. Electric, battery, and gas-powered options are available.
Rake: Garden rakes are great for cleaning up leaves and debris from the lawn. For a splurge, pick up a leaf blower.
Lawn spreader: Used to spread fertilizers, herbicides and grass seed, lawn spreaders are frequently used throughout the lawn care season.
Hose: An indispensable tool with a myriad of uses, a high-quality hose is worth the extra cost.
Sprinkler: Invest in a sprinkler or two (or more, depending on the size of your lawn). There are lots of types to choose from.”I can’t say one sprinkler type is better than others,” Churchill says, “but make sure to match the sprinkler to your lawn’s size and shape.”
Aerator: You’ll want to aerate at least once a season. Consider renting one from your local hardware store.
Protective gear: Don’t forget personal protective items like gloves, hearing protection and protective eyewear.

Prepping for Spring and Summer

In the spring, clean up debris or leaves left from the winter months, then fertilize and add pre-emergent herbicides. Thin or bare spots can be overseeded in the spring, but “if you’re seeding in the spring, seed will always emerge slower,” Churchill says, noting it may need a bit more attention as a result. Water regularly during the summer, continue weed management efforts and aerate the soil.

Seeding

Spread seed in the spring or fall, not during the summer. Always choose grass seed appropriate for your climate. Rake to loosen the soil, and spread the seed evenly with a lawn spreader. Gently rake the seeds into the soil, then water regularly to keep the seed moist but not soggy for a few weeks.

Mowing

Keep mower blades sharp by sharpening once or twice a season. Set the cutting height of your mower to between 3 to 4-in. for cool season grasses or 2 to 3-in. for warm-season grasses.

Alternatively, you can follow Cameron’s “1/3” rule, which means to only cut 1/3 of the blade off when you mow. He also recommends mulching clippings instead of bagging them to return nutrients to the soil.

Watering

Aim to water approximately twice a week, preferably in the morning. “Try to stay away from watering during the midday when ambient temps are hot, and it may be windy,” Churchill says. Aim to give your lawn 1 to 1 1/2-inches of water per week, but know that this amount can be adjusted. “There are many factors that determine if and when your lawn needs water,” Churchill says, including daytime temperatures, lawngrass types and recent rainfall amounts.

Fertilizer

Pick the right fertilizer for your lawn type, then spread it evenly with a lawn spreader. In cooler climates, fertilize in the spring and fall. In warmer climates, add fertilizer in the late spring or summer. Always read the directions and follow them carefully. Overfertilizing can kill your lawn or lead to yellow spots. Time it so you spread fertilizer right before a rain, or water thoroughly immediately after.

Crabgrass and Weeds

Regular weed management promotes a healthier lawn and helps keep weeds under control. “A strong stand of turf will compete with weeds,” says Harrington, preventing weed germination. Crabgrass, which appears in late spring or early summer, can be prevented with a pre-emergent herbicide in mid-spring. Broadleaf weeds like dandelions, clover, and chickweed should be treated with herbicide in spring. Grassy weeds are best managed by manual removal and targeted herbicides.

Brown Patches

Brown grass indicates dead grass, but identifying the cause is key to fixing it.

Pet urine: Dilute urine spots with hose water to prevent brown patches.
Improper watering: In dry weather, water deeply weekly.
Fungal issues: Treat brown patches caused by fungus, which can occur from overwatering with a fungicide.
Pests: Grubs in the soil can stress your lawn and lead to brown patches, but can be treated with grub killer.
Lawn clippings: “Excess clippings and debris can create problems like thatch buildup or dead spotting,” Cameron says, so only mow dry grass and bag long clippings.

Once brown patches are remedied, rake dead grass and reseed in the fall.

Fall and winter maintenance

In the fall, rake and remove fallen leaves from your lawn before winter. Rent an aerator and aerate the entire lawn, which Cameron touts as one of the most important lawn care practices. Don’t forget to overseed and water in the fall as well, to help your lawn emerge healthy and strong in the spring.

About the Experts

Joe Churchill is a Senior Turf Specialist for Reinders, a major distributor of lawn care products throughout the Midwest. Churchill is certified in Turf Management and has over 25 years of experience in the turfgrass industry.
Tylor Harrington is the owner and operator of Berkshire Turfgrass Specialists. He has a degree in Turfgrass Management from University of Massachusetts Stockbridge School of Agriculture. He worked grounds keeping in professional sports (mostly baseball) before moving back home to Dalton, Massachusetts to open his business.
Matt Cameron is the owner of CMS Landscaping, a full-service lawn care and irrigation company in Holyoke, Massachusetts. Matt has 15 years of landscaping experience.

The post Lawn Care Playbook: How To Supercharge Your Yard This Season appeared first on Family Handyman.

12 Weeds That Are Actually Attractive

Laurie M Nichols — Fri, 18 Apr 2025 17:23:19 +0000

Mullein

“Notable for its fuzzy leaves and large flower stalks, mullein plants grow up to 7 feet tall,” DeJohn says. “The small yellow flowers on this dramatic plant are a good nectar source for pollinators.”

Found throughout the United States, mullein often grows along roadsides, parking lots and fences or any other neglected, well-drained soils. While great for pollinators, it is considered invasive as it is a prolific seed producer, so you’ll want to manage the area closely to contain spreading.

Chicory

Native to Europe, this woody, perennial plant has long been established in the U.S. and is considered invasive in some states. However, it is an attractive weed, producing “beautiful blue flowers on stalks reaching up to 4 feet tall,” DeJohn says. It attracts and supports pollinators throughout its long blooming season from mid-summer through fall.

In addition to its pretty flowers and pollinator benefits, “chicory is known for its medicinal uses and use as a coffee substitute,” Singh says. Chicory will self-seed, but is not overly aggressive, so limited control efforts should keep it contained.

Creeping Buttercups

Often found in lawns, fields and forest edges, Creeping Buttercups are a low-growing leafy weed that produces bright yellow flowers. “Creeping buttercup makes an attractive ground cover, especially in areas with moist soils,” DeJohn says. However, this variety is native to Europe and can be aggressive, spreading more than 40 sq. ft. in a single year. Singh suggests planting less invasive, native varieties like Early Buttercup (Ranunculus fascicularis) with its “beautiful, yellow flowers.”

Yarrow

“Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium) is native to North America and has great benefits for pollinators,” Singh says. Growing 1 to 3 feet tall, this attractive weed has feathery foliage and clusters of small, flat-topped flowers. However, “some yarrows are aggressive growers and will take over a garden,” DeJohn says. “If you want to plant yarrow, look for cultivated varieties that are more ‘well-behaved.'” Once planted, yarrow can achieve its full height within a single growing season.

Burdock

Producing interesting clusters of spiky, purple flowers that look like thistles, burdock grows in two stages. The first year it establishes roots and produces limited vegetation and flowers. The second year it sends up a tall flowering stalk that can reach 8 feet in height. It’s a prolific re-seeder and is “considered invasive in North America, especially in the Pacific Northwest and Midwest,” Singh says. Remove it entirely from your yard or cut it back before it seeds to prevent it from taking over.

Scarlet Pimpernel

A low, spreading ground cover, Scarlet Pimpernel is often found growing in fields, meadows or roadsides. This attractive weed has thin, leggy stems, bright green foliage and vibrant red and orange flowers. It grows quickly, able to generate a thick mat that can outcompete native plants. “Many weeds we see in our yards, along the roadside, and in naturalized areas are not native to North America,” Singh says. “Over time, species imported from Eurasia for their ornamental value broke the bounds of where they were planted and spread uncontrollably.” This is the case with Scarlet Pimpernel, as it is very adaptable, fast-growing and a prolific re-seeding plant that will need close attention in the garden.

Goldenrod

“With numerous species native to North America, goldenrod produces show-stopping plumes of yellow flowers that attract pollinators,” DeJohn says. Often found along roadsides and in fields, goldenrod grows quickly, reaching heights of 6 to 7 feet within a season or two. Often mistaken for ragweed, as the two bloom at the same time, goldenrod is “a keystone species with huge benefits for a wide range of pollinators,” Singh says. Native to North America, goldenrod is not considered invasive and will not overpower other plants in your yard.

Milkweed

Milkweed is a tall, attractive plant that produces clusters of small, brightly colored flowers. While not typically a cultivated plant, native milkweed “is an essential host plant for monarch butterfly caterpillars,” Singh says. “It’s the only species Monarchs will lay their eggs on, so it’s critical to plant milkweed to save this species from extinction.” When planted in full sun and well-draining soil, milkweed can grow to 6 feet or more, producing flowers within a few seasons of being planted. “Some of the best choices for supporting monarchs are common milkweed, swamp milkweed, butterflyweed, and showy milkweed,” DeJohn says. Avoid tropical milkweed, which is considered invasive and problematic for Monarchs.

Queen Anne’s Lace or Wild Carrot

A fast-growing plant found in disturbed soil along roadsides, fences and forest edges, this attractive weed produces clusters of delicate white flowers with feathery leaves. Able to grow and flower in a single season, Queen Anne’s Lace is native to Europe and can be difficult to contain once established. “It’s considered invasive in many regions because it can outcompete native species,” Singh says. “There is a native version, American Wild Carrot (Daucus pusillus), which appears in the southern U.S. and has smaller flowers than the European species,” Singh says.

White Clover

This low-growing ground cover, native to Europe and Central Asia, produces white thistle-like flowers with small, triplet leaflet leaves. White clover has a long blooming season, from late spring to fall, and is a prolific pollinator attractor. It’s often used a lawn alternative as well. “[It] can be used in grass mixes because, as a legume, it fixes nitrogen and therefore needs little to no nitrogen fertilizer,” DeJohn says. Singh suggests trying native species as ground cover instead. “A few examples include bigleaf aster, common blue violet and side oats grama grass,” Singh says. Clover will spread but is not aggressive, so it will not need strict attention in lawns and gardens.

Wild Roses

Unlike cultivated roses, wild roses grow unassisted in forests and fields and along roadsides in disturbed soil. “There are several species of roses native to North America, but they might not be what come to mind when we think of a bouquet of roses or a rose bush,” Singh says. Wild roses have smaller flowers than cultivated species, and blooms can be solitary or in small clusters. While an attractive weed, “they are very invasive and should be removed, if possible,” DeJohn says. Many spread through underground suckers, quickly overtaking other vegetation.

Fleabane

A wildflower found in fields, meadows and roadsides across central and eastern North America, Fleabane can also migrate into gardens and lawns. Producing small, daisy-like flowers that bloom from late spring to fall, fleabane has also been long used to deter pests, like fleas. “The leaves release compounds that are believed to help keep unwanted insects at bay,” Singh says. With a central yellow disc and petals of white, pink or lavender, this attractive weed can crowd out other plants but is easy to manage with manual pulling.

About the Experts

Suzanne DeJohn is a horticulturist at KidsGardening, a national non-profit organization. Since 1982, KidsGardening supports educators, families and caregivers with grant funding, original educational resources, inspiration, and community to get more kids learning through the garden.
Trisha Singh is the Vice President of Product at Garden for Wildlife, a program run by the National Wildlife Federation, which encourages wildlife-friendly gardening spaces. Trisha is a wildlife biologist who enjoys native plant gardening and helping to support others in their native gardening pursuits.

The post 12 Weeds That Are Actually Attractive appeared first on Family Handyman.

How To Build a Ramp for a Shed in an Afternoon

Samuel Rosenmayer — Fri, 18 Apr 2025 17:16:41 +0000

A four-inch rise from my shed to the ground may not seem significant, but it can be quite an annoying hassle to maneuver my lawn mower and snowblower in and out of. A ramp is definitely needed, but I didn’t want to deal with a permanent shed ramp. Instead, I decided to build a portable ramp that I could easily store in the shed when not in use. Your dimensions will likely differ from mine, but you can follow the same process to create a simple ramp for your shed.

Project Overview

Cutting List

KEY	QTY.	PART	DIMENSIONS
A	2	Outside Stringer	1-1/2” x 3-1/2” x 48”
B	1	Middle Stringer	1-1/2” x 3-1/2” x 46-1/2
C	1	Header	1-1/2” x 3-1/2”* x 29”
D	2	Vertical Blocking	1-1/2” x 2-9/16”* x 13-3/4”
E	2	Horizontal Blocking	1-1/2” x 3-1/2” x 13-3/4”
F	1	Runner	1/2″ x 32” x 48”

* – To long side of angled edge

How to measure for a shed ramp

To determine the appropriate size for your shed ramp, you must understand the relationship between the ramp’s rise and slope.

First, measure your shed’s rise—the vertical distance from the ground to the shed floor. This measurement is crucial as it determines the height of your ramp and helps calculate its length.

While OSHA guidelines recommend a maximum slope of 1:3 (meaning one inch of height for every three inches of length) for slip-resistant ramps, consider what you’ll move in and out of your shed when choosing your slope. For non-permanent ramps, a gentle slope between 1:8 and 1:12 is often more practical.

To calculate your ramp length:

Measure your shed rise (in inches)
Multiply by your desired slope ratio

For the ramp we are planning to build, with a 4-in. rise and a 1:12 slope, the calculation is: 4-in. × 12 = 48-in. long ramp length.

If you preferred a steeper 1:8 slope, you would multiply 4-in. × 8 = 32-in. long ramp length.

Finally, measure the width of your shed doors—ours is 32-in. wide—and you will have all the measurements needed to start building.

Cut the 2×4 components

Using a miter saw, cut the stringers (A and B), header (C), and blocker boards (D and E) to length from the treated 2x4s.
Using a track saw or circular saw, cut the 1:12 ramp slope on the outside (A) and middle (B) stringers.
Set your table saw to roughly 4.7 degrees and rip the top edge of the header (C) and vertical blocking pieces (D) so the longer side matches the cut list. Test the cut angle on a scrap piece to make sure it aligns with the stringers’ (A and B) angle.

Drill pocket holes in the blocking boards

Use a pocket hole jig to drill two pocket holes at each end of the vertical (D) and horizontal blocking (E) boards. These blocking boards will be secured between the outside (A) and middle (B) stringers.

Attach the header to the stringers

Using predrilled 2-1/2-in. exterior screws, secure the two outside stringers (A) to the ends of the header (C). Next, use the same predrilled 2-1/2-in. exterior screws to attach the middle stringer (B) so that it is centered on the header (C). Use clamps and the blocking boards (D and E) as spacers to ensure that the pieces are aligned and their tops are flush.

Attach the blocking

Fasten the blocking (D and E) between the stringers (A and B) with 2-1/2-in. pocket hole screws. Center the vertical blocking (D) 12-in. from the top of the ramp and the front edge of the horizontal blocking (E) 24-in. from the same.

Cut and install the runner

Measure and cut the runner (F) from ground contact pressure-treated plywood using a table saw.
Using a drywall T-square, draw lines on the plywood runner (F) that indicate the positions of the outside (A) and middle (B) stringers where you will secure it with screws. Drill mounting holes along these lines approximately eight inches apart with a countersink drill bit.
Attach the runner (F) to the outside (A) and middle (B) stringers using exterior rated screws. Be sure to use shorter screws as you approach the beginning of the ramp, since the stringers become narrower at that point. I used 2-1/2-in. screws at the tall end of the ramp and gradually reduced their length to 1/2-in. screws at the short end.

Apply grip tape

Wooden ramps can become slippery when wet, so it’s important to add something that creates traction. Clean the top of the ramp to ensure it is dust-free, and apply grip tape to the surface of the runner (F). Use a utility knife to cut the grip tape to the appropriate width and space the pieces 1-1/4-in. apart.

FAQ

What wood to use for a shed ramp?

For an outdoor ramp, use wood and plywood that will hold up outdoors, such as pressure-treated, ground-contact lumber and exterior-rated plywood.

Should I use 2×4 or 2×6 for a shed ramp?

For heavy equipment, use 2×6 lumber to support the weight. For lighter equipment, such as a push mower or snowblower, 2×4 lumber is sufficient.

How to determine the length of a shed ramp?

The slope is calculated using a 1:12 slope ratio. For example, if your rise is 2-in., the slope will be 2 multiplied by 12, resulting in an overall ramp length of 24-in.

The post How To Build a Ramp for a Shed in an Afternoon appeared first on Family Handyman.

Lawn Care Confessions: Unfiltered Truths & Trade Secrets Behind Perfect Lawns

Karuna Eberl — Thu, 17 Apr 2025 19:05:37 +0000

At one point in his career, lawn care expert Ryan Waltz was tasked with maintaining golf courses for the Professional Golfers’ Association of America’s (PGA) tour events. It was a monumental task, which often started at 2:30 a.m. Every aspect needed to be perfect, from making sure the mowing stripes on the tee boxes pointed in the correct direction to timing the irrigation system precisely down to the second.

“Every angle of turf care had to work in tandem to make these events what they were, both for the players and aesthetically for the audiences watching on TV around the world,” he says.

Luckily, creating an enviable lawn at home is a lot less stressful, but it still requires knowing the fundamentals of a lawn ecosystem. Think of the challenge as conducting a symphony, where instruments combine to create a lush and vibrant experience. But instead of violins and tubas, your tools are water, soil conditioning, nutrition, aeration, weed control, mowing, timing and especially passion.

“Maintaining a home lawn should never require you to wake up at 2:30 a.m., but it may require you to spend a little extra time in the garage sharpening those mower blades a couple times a year to keep a clean cut,” says Walts.

It All Starts With The Soil

In years past, the main focus of lawn care fell on the grass, so fertilizers and mowing schedules were the priorities. But now we’re becoming increasingly aware that success actually starts with a healthy soil ecosystem — healthy soil fosters better growth, helps keep out weeds, cuts water usage in half and enhances nutrients, which can reduce fertilizer dependence by 40%.

“The real secret is what is happening under the surface,” says turf specialist Bennett Barrier. “Would you prefer to spend decades fighting yellow patches and weeds or establish a self-sustaining lawn?”

One of his clients in Dallas learned this lesson the hard way. Before consulting with Barrier, he had spent thousands of dollars on high-quality sod but neglected to address his soil. “The compacted clay suffocated the roots, and by the time he called us in, half the grass had died,” says Barrier. Barrier was able to revive the lawn using liquid aeration and organic composting. “Within months, the lawn recovered,” he says. “Proper soil prep is everything.”

It’s also vital to test your soil to assess its pH levels and nutrient deficiencies. Landscape designer Eduard Negodenko used this tactic to revive a large residential lawn that had gone unattended for years. The soil test prompted him to add lime and organic matter. He also aerated it, reseeded it with drought-tolerant grass and installed a drip irrigation system for water conservation.

“The natural process was long and slow,” says Negodenko. “I remember the client losing faith halfway through. But in months, the lawn finally transformed into a beautiful green space. Starting off with the soil is the biggest takeaway for me. No amount of mowing or fertilizer could ever give a sustainable, beautiful lawn without soil health being addressed.”

Tips For A Lush, Healthy Lawn From Turf Pros

Aeration

Negodenko, Walts and Barrier all emphasize that aeration is vital for reducing soil compaction, as it allows more water and nutrients to reach the grasses’ roots. Traditionally, aeration involves a machine that punches small holes into the soil, but Barrier says it’s also possible to aerate with a soil-conditioning spray.

“For larger areas, machine aeration is effective, especially when the soil is compacted,” says Barrier. “For smaller or more delicate lawns, a soil-conditioning spray can be equally beneficial without disrupting the yard.”

Negodenko further recommends following aeration with a mixture of organic compost and sand to improve drainage and bring in needed nutrients.

Pre-Emergent

Content creator Jordan Netzel, aka “The Lawn Tools,” says his No. 1 tip is to use pre-emergent to prevent weeds. “Preventing the weeds from popping up in the first place is a lot easier than trying to kill them after the fact, specifically with crabgrass,” he says. (Many experts recommend avoiding products with glyphosate, however, which harms bees and natural ecosystems.)

Proper Mowing

Negodenko says most homeowners make the mistake of cutting grass too short, which weakens lawns by making them more susceptible to weeds and diseases. For most grass species, he recommends a height of three inches.

Emerging trend: electric lawn equipment. “I see a lot of people being really bitter about battery equipment, but I like how quiet it is and I love how low maintenance it is,” says Netzel. “My ah-ha moment was after I had been using electric trimmers and found myself extremely annoyed with how loud my neighbor’s gas string trimmer was.”

Adequate Watering

Many lawn enthusiasts don’t realize that it’s better to water deeply and less frequently, which helps roots grow deeper, says Negodenko. Also, beware of inconsistencies in your irrigation system, which could cause overwatering in some areas and underwatering in others.

Emerging trend: smart irrigation systems. These new, nifty devices monitor soil moisture, weather and soil type, then adjust irrigation accordingly. They save money, plus EPA studies have shown that they can save up to 50% on water use, says Barrier. “That is quite a lot, especially for areas experiencing drought or water restrictions,” he says.

Organic Fertilizers

Walts recommends regularly applying slow-release, eco-friendly soil treatments like compost or organic soil amendments to improve soil health and make grass more resilient. Organic fertilizers are gentler on the environment, reducing runoff into waterways while promoting healthy soil. A common mistake is over-fertilizing with chemical fertilizers, which can lead to nutrient overload, polluting the environment and harming beneficial insects.”

Organic fertilizers are also trending in commercial lawn care, says Negodenko. “There’s a move towards less chemical fertilizers and pesticides treatment, with a growing percentage of lawn care enthusiasts going for organic alternatives of compost tea or neem oil for that healthy lawn,” he says.

Probiotics

A milestone new trend is soil probiotics, says Barrier. These combinations of fungi and bacteria improve soil health by making nutrients more available and helping with water retention. One study showed they enhance drought tolerance by 30%, a big plus with increasingly erratic rain patterns. Plus, they lessen the need for synthetic fertilizers, so they’re better for the environment and overall soil health, he says.

“Smart irrigation systems and probiotics are areas where we’re seeing a real positive, exciting change in the industry,” says Barrier. “Probiotics are a newer trend, but their benefits are becoming increasingly obvious as more research is done.”

LawnTok

Want more lawn ideas? Try using LawnTok for helpful solutions, says Negodenko. “LawnTok is propagating knowledge and excitement about lawn care for most DIY enthusiasts,” he says.

For A True Show-Stopping Lawn, Think Beyond Grass

Creating a truly knockout lawn takes more than just grass, says Negodenko. Instead, aim for a yard that feels aesthetically whole, plus serves a purpose by including elements like pollinator-friendly gardens, water-efficient irrigation, xeriscaping and areas designed for outdoor living.

“Emerging trends in lawn care these days are influenced by sustainability and environmental responsibility,” he says, “effects that are beneficial not only to this planet but also to the increasing demand for low-maintenance landscapes.

Negodenko’s other pro-tips for achieving a well-rounded yard include:

Plant a diversity of plants for year-round interest, especially native species that are well-adapted to your climate, helpful to the ecosystem and require less maintenance. “With annuals and perennials, mixed with shrubs and ornamental grasses, your yard is guaranteed a splash of color and texture well into the winter,” he says.
Hardscaping, such as walkways, patios and garden borders, adds a refined feel to your yard and enhances its functionality. “Most homeowners stuff their yards with as many features as possible or place them completely ignoring flow and proportion,” he says. Just a well-designed path or even a simple stone border around flower beds can do so much to create the illusion of structure and visual interest.”
Create defined edges. “A crisp lawn edge and some nicely defined hedges will instantly transform your yard into having a well-manicured, professional quality, and ensure it becomes the star in the neighborhood,” he says.

Netzel’s advice for creating a show-stopping lawn is stripes. “A weed-free and fresh-cut lawn can look nice, but if there are stark lawn stripes, that’s what will turn heads,” he says. I take it to the next level by trying to incorporate different patterns to make my lawn look like plaid.”

If you want in on the stripes game, Netzel says the trick is to use a roller or something heavy on the mower that will push that grass over as you mow. Then, when you go in different directions, the grass will reflect the sun differently and appear to be different shades of green. “Stripes going toward and away from the sun show up the best,” he says.

Finally, keep in mind that creating the perfect lawn will require some trial and error, so have fun with the journey.

“In lawn care, Tiger, Phil and Rory are nowhere to be found, but there is still grass,” says Walts. “At home, it may not require the same level of intensive care as a golf course, but it still demands love and care to perform its best.”

About the Experts

Eduard Negodenko has been designing landscapes and providing lawn and garden expertise for more than seven years. He currently works at Avanti Landscaping in Toronto, Canada.
Ryan Walts is training manager and business coach at the fertilizer and weed control franchise Lawn Squad. He has 17 years of experience in turfgrass science and maintenance.
Bennett Barrier is a turf specialist and CEO of DFW Turf Solutions.
Content creator and Toro ambassador Jordan Netzel and his brother are “The Lawn Tools.” Unless Netzel’s lawn looks like an MLB baseball field, he’s not happy.

Lawn Lords

Family Handyman — Wed, 16 Apr 2025 15:58:46 +0000

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Landscaping Wisdom

Why Is My Neighbor’s Lawn Greener Than Mine?

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What Are Spurge Weeds and How Do You Get Rid Of Them?

Shifrah Combiths — Tue, 15 Apr 2025 13:41:43 +0000

Spring is the perfect time to prepare for everything summer brings. The warmer weather and later sunlight bring people outside of their homes and into their yards. From filling container gardens to laying new mulch, spring is kickoff season for yard work. Just a couple of weeks ago, here in east Tennessee, we started needing to mow our lawns and prepare them for summer.

A big part of lawn maintenance is weed control. As with so many things, prevention is key. This is particularly true with spurge weeds, which plague lawns all across the United States. Spurge weeds are hardy and produce thousands of seeds per plant once they flower, so it’s important to catch them before they sprout or very soon after.

Ahead, some more information about how to spot spurge weeds, how best to get rid of them, and what you can do to prevent them.

What Are Spurge Weeds?

Spurge weeds belong to the genus Euphorbia. They are fast-growing, invasive plants that are the bane of many Americans with lawns and lawn care routines. They thrive in poor, compacted soil and hot, dry environments, so they are especially prolific during summer months.

According to Julia Omelchenko, resident botany expert at plant care app Plantum, “There are several types of spurge, such as the spotted spurge (Euphorbia maculata), the ground spurge (Euphorbia prostrate) and the creeping spurge (Euphorbia serpens), to name a few. While these species slightly differ in appearance and growth patterns, they still have lots in common.”

Omelchenko details, “Spurge weeds form thick mats, smothering grass and cultivated plants,” and they’re particularly problematic because “if left unchecked, these highly resilient weeds can quickly spread over a large area.” Each plant can produce thousands of seeds that can germinate immediately, the next year, or stay dormant in the soil for years, according to the horticulture division of the University of Wisconsin-Madison. In addition, when the stems or leaves of spurge weeds are damaged, they release a milky white sap that irritates the skin and can be toxic to pets if swallowed.

Another characteristic of spurge weeds is their adaptability to various conditions and their rapid reproduction, both of which make them a huge nuisance to residential landscapes.

What Do Spurge Weeds Look Like?

Spurge weeds are easy to spot. They grow in areas like cracks in sidewalks, driveways or garden beds near concrete and have a distinct appearance that’s easy to distinguish from surrounding plants and grass.

Ryan Walts, turf management expert and training coach of lawn maintenance franchise Lawn Squad, describes spurge weeds as having “a distinctive appearance with small, oval leaves arranged in a whorled pattern around the stems. The leaves may have a reddish tint, especially in the summer heat. One of the key identifiers is the plant’s ability to form a mat-like structure on the ground, which can crowd out surrounding plants.”

Omelchenko adds, “During the growing season, spurge produces tiny green or pink flowers in the leaf axils. Despite their size, these flowers generate a large number of seeds, allowing spurge to spread rapidly. The seeds can be carried by wind, water, animals, lawnmowers, and even sticking to shoes.”

How To Get Rid of Spurge Weeds

Although spurge weeds are invasive and spread quickly, they don’t have to be hard to get rid of if you’re aware of some important points.

The first line of defense against spurge weeds, once they appear in your landscape, is weeding by hand. Targeting spurge weeds is easy because they’re easy to spot. Omelchenko explains how to hand-weed spurge weeds effectively: “Hand-weeding is a good option for handling small patches of spurge plants, provided you do it properly. It’s crucial to remove the root system, especially the taproot, to prevent regrowth. Make sure to wear gloves during the process to avoid contact with the irritating sap. The best time to remove spurge is when the soil is moist, as dry soil can cause the roots to break, leaving parts behind and allowing the weed to grow back.”

Herbicides can also be used to deal with spurge weed, but Omelchenko cautions, “Remember that herbicides can harm other garden plants or crops and can be toxic to humans and animals, so use them only as a last resort.” She adds that “herbicides are most useful when spurge appears in sidewalk cracks or garden paths rather than in garden beds or lawns.”

Walts is also a proponent of herbicides. “The most effective way to control spurge weeds is to apply the weed control product directly on the target area. Spurge is a broadleaf weed, so applying the appropriate post-emergent herbicide that targets broadleaf weeds is essential,” he says.

How to Prevent Spurge Weeds From Returning

Because spurge weeds are invasive, you should expect their yearly return to your garden. However, there are some preventive measures you can take.

Maintaining a healthy lawn is actually one of the best ways to discourage spurge weeds. Omelchenko explains, “Since spurge weeds thrive in compacted or poor soils, they tend to appear in lawns with thin or bare patches. That’s why proper lawn care, such as mowing, watering, and fertilizing, promotes thick and strong grass that can naturally outcompete weeds like spurge.” Walts concurs, saying, “Prevention begins with maintaining a healthy lawn. Aeration, fertilization, and overseeding can help create a dense lawn that makes it more difficult for spurge weeds to establish. A well-maintained lawn is a natural defense against many weed species, including spurge.”

In addition, pre-emergent herbicides and consistent hand-pulling can help keep spurge weed under control. However, it’s important that both of these methods be used before seeds germinate in order to maximize their effectiveness. “Consistent hand-pulling of any young spurge plants before they can produce seeds will help to limit their spread,” confirms Walts.

FAQs

Why are spurge weeds so hard to control?

Spurge weeds are difficult to control due to a few factors. They thrive in areas that are inhospitable to other plants, such as in compacted soil and in hot, dry environments, so it’s easy for them to grow. Their tap roots are hard to pull out, so even when they are pulled by hand, and you think you got them, they could re-emerge from the tap root remnant that’s still in the soil. In addition, they are self-seeding and can spread quickly if not kept in check.

Can I eliminate spurge weeds for good?

Spurge weeds are prolific, rampant, and invasive. You shouldn’t expect to get rid of them once and for all. Instead, you should prepare for them with a pre-emergent herbicide in early spring and then be vigilant to hand weed whenever you see new plants pop up so they don’t have a chance to germinate and spread. Also, stay on top of maintaining your lawn, since dense, healthy lawns with no bare spots help minimize spurge weed.

About the Experts

Julia Omelchenko is a botanist at AIBY Inc. and plant expert for the Plantum plant care app, where she has consulted on botany-related topics for five years. Her areas of specialization include phytopathology, plant physiology, and plant biochemistry.
Ryan Walts is a turf management and maintenance expert with a passion for turf science. He is also a training manager and business coach for lawn treatment franchise Lawn Squad.

Sources

Julia Omelchenko, botanist and plant consultant for plant care app Plantum
Ryan Walts, turf management expert and training manager at Lawn Squad

“University of Wisconsin-Madison Wisconsin Horticulture Division of Extension: Spotted Spurge, Chamaesyce (=Euphorbia) maculata“
“University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources: Spotted Spurge and Other Spurges” (2009)

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Why Is My Neighbor’s Lawn Greener Than Mine?

Karuna Eberl — Mon, 14 Apr 2025 20:25:19 +0000

For some, the quest to create the lushest, greenest lawn on the block is a serious summer-long competition. For others, it’s more about just having a comfortable, aesthetically pleasing place to chill outdoors. Regardless of personality type, at some point, we’ve all probably asked ourselves, “Why is the neighbor’s lawn greener than mine?”

The answer is multi-faceted. A lot of lawn care practices need to come together to create that masterpiece. But getting it right isn’t out of reach. Here’s what to know about why your neighbor’s lawn is greener than yours and how to troubleshoot what’s holding yours back.

Why Is My Neighbor’s Lawn Greener Than Mine?

Watering habits

In general, lawns benefit from deep watering, which encourages strong root growth. Landscape designer Eduard Negodenko recommends soaking the ground to 1.5 inches deep once a week in the early morning. Also, avoid night watering, as it can encourage fungal diseases.

“Irrigation systems also vary,” he says. “Perhaps your neighbor’s system blankets the entire lawn evenly with hydration, while your hand-held hose or sprinkler may miss some spots.”

Soil composition

Soil composition varies between yards due to home construction, past landscaping practices and natural soil variations. A soil test can determine the nutrient balance in your soil and whether your yard’s pH is too high (alkaline) or too low (acidic). The ideal range for most grasses is between 6.0 and 7.0, says Negodenko. “Anything above or below and your grass will struggle to absorb nutrients no matter how much fertilizer you apply,” he says.

Nutrients and fertilization

Lawns lacking nutrients may look pale or yellowish, says turf expert Ryan Walts. “Products containing nitrogen, iron, and/or ferrous sulfate often encourage green-up of the grass and provide a more immediate visual response,” he says. Also, a soil test will show what essential nutrients might be lacking, such as nitrogen, phosphorus or potassium.

The type of fertilizer can also affect lawn color. Quick-release fertilizers can green things up quickly but for a shorter time. “If the neighbor uses slow-release nitrogen-rich fertilizers every six to eight weeks in the growing season, the grass will always be green in color,” says Negodenko.

Shade

Most grass varieties do best with at least four to six hours of direct sunlight per day. If your lawn is less green “it could be that your neighbor’s yard is receiving a little more sun, or they chose a shade-tolerant variety like fine fescue or St. Augustine, while your yard struggles with a sun-loving species like Bermuda grass,” says Negodenko.

Weed control

Competition from weeds can also weaken a lawn. “If weeds such as crabgrass, dandelions or clover are stealing nutrients and water, your grass will have trouble maintaining health,” says Negodenko.

Mowing habits

“Most homeowners mow too short, thinking this will cause the lawn to need mowing less frequently, but this actually damages the lawn because it exposes more soil surfaces to sunlight,” says Negodenko. That ends up making it more susceptible to weeds.

The ideal mowing height varies by grass type, but in general, cutting it no shorter than three inches, as well as never cutting off more than one-third of the length of the grass blades, will keep your lawn healthy and help it develop deep roots that hold onto moisture.

Lawn care routine

Another reason your neighbor’s lawn might be greener than yours is their maintenance routine. “A lawn with a consistent care program, including aeration, overseeding and seasonal treatments, will generally stay greener and healthier throughout the year compared to one that doesn’t,” says Walts.

Tips To Make My Lawn Look Like My Neighbor’s

Just ask

“The best first step to make your lawn the same as your neighbor’s is to ask what they do,” says Negodenko. “They may give you a bit on the products they use, watering schedules or perhaps even mention hiring a professional lawn care service.”

Test your soil

Testing your soil for nutrients and pH levels is a game-changer. Buy an at-home kit or send a sample to a local extension services office to find out exactly what your lawn needs.

Water properly

Water each area of your lawn three mornings per week for 20 to 30 minutes. “Lawns that receive consistent, deep watering tend to be greener and healthier than those that don’t,” says Walts.

Prune trees and bushes

If shade is the problem, prune back tree branches or switch to a more shade-tolerant grass species.

Slow-release fertilize

Use a slow-release nitrogen-blend fertilizer to keep your grass fed continuously throughout the season, and fertilize at recommended intervals. “Proper fertilization helps grass make the most of nutrients and store energy, keeping it lush and resilient,” says Walts. “Regular applications of organic products can also improve drought tolerance.”

Mow higher

If you’ve been mowing too short, now is a good time to raise your blade to that healthier height, which will ultimately encourage strong root growth, says Negodenko.

Aerate

Walts recommends aerating your lawn annually during peak growing seasons to loosen compacted soil and improve water and nutrient absorption. “This can lead to stronger, deeper roots and an overall healthier lawn. ”

Pest control

Keep an eye out for insects and lawn diseases, as they can steal nutrients and weaken your grass, says Walts. “Implementing a pest control program can help maintain your lawn’s health and keep it looking as vibrant as your neighbor’s,” he says.

Limit traffic and wear

Reducing foot traffic, especially in high-use areas, can help prevent patchy or worn-down spots, says Walts. “If needed, create designated walkways or play areas to keep the grass in its best shape,” he says.

About the Experts

Eduard Negodenko has been designing landscapes and providing lawn and garden expertise for more than seven years. He currently work at Avanti Landscaping in Toronto, Canada.
Ryan Walts is training manager and business coach at the fertilizer and weed control franchise Lawn Squad. He has 17 years of experience in turfgrass science and maintenance.

The post Why Is My Neighbor’s Lawn Greener Than Mine? appeared first on Family Handyman.

How Coffee Grounds Can Supercharge Your Plants

Jenna Clark — Fri, 11 Apr 2025 18:21:57 +0000

If you love gardening and have some extra coffee grounds around, you’ll be glad to know that those grounds can help boost your green thumb. Coffee grounds are really good for plants in some circumstances. They can easily be used for many reasons, from extra nourishment to pest control. Knowing how to incorporate them into your gardening routine is key to ensuring optimal plant and lawn health.

Whether you’ve been there and done that and are looking to enhance your current gardening regimen or are new to gardening and looking for the ground rules when using coffee beans, we’ve got you covered. Ahead, professors, horticulturists, master gardeners, and extension specialists weigh in on the nuances of the answer to the question “Are coffee grounds good for plants?” Additionally, they share best practices when it comes to using coffee grounds on different types of plants, lawns, and soils.

Are Coffee Grounds Good for Plants?

Coffee grounds can be good for plants depending on the type of coffee grounds used, the type of plant, and how the coffee grounds are used. That said, “There is a significant difference between fresh and used coffee grounds. Most of the nutritional benefits come from the fresh stuff, not the stuff you can get by the bucket from your local barista,” explains Jonathan Russell-Anelli, a senior lecturer and extension associate at Cornell University’s School of Integrative Plant Science.

Which plants are coffee grounds good for?

Although we’ve covered the basic answer to the question “Are coffee grounds good for plants?” it is important to know which plants (as only some prefer more acidic soil). Plants that benefit from coffee grounds include cabbage, soybeans, anthuriums as well as some other houseplants, root vegetables, and ericaceous plants such as azaleas and hydrangeas, adds Stephen Pryce Lea, the deputy executive director of horticulture at the Delaware Botanic Gardens.

What plants do not react well to coffee grounds?

As important as it is to know which plants react well to coffee grounds, it is equally important to be aware of the plants that may experience an adverse reaction. “Plants that prefer a more alkaline soil may not thrive as much with coffee grounds and may become stunted over time, ” explains Masterson. Barychko adds that these types of plants may also experience burns resulting from over-acidification, and nobody wants that. As far as specific plants go, Langelo notes that you should avoid placing coffee grounds on plants, including orchids, tomatoes, rosemary, lavender, cover, alfalfa, and century plants, to name a few.

Luke Gatiboni, Ph.D., a professor in the Department of Crop and Soil Sciences at North Carolina State University, recommends testing your soil and coffee grounds beforehand to avoid applying coffee grounds to plants that may not be as receptive to them or those already planted in acidic soil. Luckily for you, testing soil pH can easily be done using a strip kit or by sending your soil to a laboratory (although this might be a larger investment).

Are Coffee Grounds Good for the Lawn?

Daniel Barychko, a horticulturist at the Central Florida Zoo, notes that coffee grounds can be good for the lawn depending on how they’re used, the type of grass, and the soil pH. To be most favorable for a lawn, coffee grounds should be properly composted, explains Wendy Wilber, a Florida master gardener volunteer program coordinator and horticulture extension agent for the University of Florida IFAS. “[Coffee grounds] can be beneficial on lawns when used sparingly, improving soil health and providing a natural slow-release fertilizer,” adds Lea.

Coffee grounds can benefit the lawn by adding trace minerals such as nitrogen and phosphorus, adds Linda Langelo, a Colorado-based horticulturist and extension horticulture specialist at Colorado State University. However, you need to be careful to ensure your soils mineral levels are balanced to prevent the overuse or depletion of other trace minerals.

Why Are Coffee Grounds Good for Lawn/Plant Care?

According to Lea, “Coffee grounds add essential nutrients (such as nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus) back into the soil naturally, improve the soil structure, and help foster a healthy ecosystem for beneficial microorganisms and earthworms. They can also help control pests without the need for chemical treatments.”

How To Use Coffee Grounds for Plants/the Lawn?

In compost

Composting coffee grounds is one of the most effective ways to use them when it comes to plant and lawn care, as many lawns cannot handle the large quantities of caffeine contained directly in coffee grounds themselves. “If using it [coffee grounds] as compost, you can make compost as quickly as your piles can be finished,” explains Irish-Hanson. With this in mind, she adds that you should aim to keep your concentration of coffee to 20% or less (with between 10% and 20% as the ideal range) in your compost to create the healthiest mix.

“At my home for the past two years, I have been adding all my coffee grounds and vegetable waste into a composter that dries the coffee grounds and vegetables and breaks them down,” says Andrea Masterson, a horticulturist and collections manager at The Buffalo and Erie County Botanical Gardens. “I store this compost until spring, then I add it to the soil in my vegetable garden. Last year was the first year I did it and I believe it was very beneficial and helped create a good yield.”

Adding them to a worm bin

Barychko notes that one of the most advantageous ways to use coffee grounds is as part of a worm bin. “The earthworms can consume the grounds, break them down and add the nutrients to their “castings” which forms a very rich and nutrient-dense soil amendment that is safe to use without the worry of burning your plants or grass,” he adds.

As fertilizer

Although it is not recommended that coffee grounds be used as your main fertilizer source, depending on the circumstances of the lawn, you might be able to occasionally use them as a slow-release fertilizer. Mixing coffee grounds with other organic matter is a best practice when it comes to fertilizing soil.

As a soil amendment

Although coffee grounds can be used as a soil amendment, it can become costly. Wilber notes that when you mix composted coffee grounds into garden soil, it will enhance the soil’s overall structure and ability to hold nutrients.

What Not To Do When Using Coffee Grounds as Lawn Care

If you plan on using coffee grounds as lawn care, there are a couple of things you want to avoid. First and foremost, Langelo notes that you should not apply them directly onto your lawn as their caffeine can harm the microbes within the soil. Barychko adds that you don’t want to over-apply coffee grounds (or apply them in clumps) to a lawn as this may cause over-acidification and your lawn to experience unwanted holes. It is also a best practice to avoid applying coffee grounds directly onto seedlings as their high nitrogen content can prevent younger plants from properly germinating and growing, explains Lea.

Can coffee grounds hurt my lawn?

“If used excessively, coffee grounds can hurt your lawn as adding too much coffee grounds to your soil can create a compacted coffee layer, reducing air and water flow in the soil, leading to root suffocation and potentially harmful mold growth,” explains Lea.

How often should I use coffee grounds in my plants and lawn?

How often you should use coffee grounds in your plants and lawn will depend on several factors, including how you decide to use the coffee grounds, the climate, and the season. In many cases, using coffee grounds once a month is sufficient. “Using them too frequently can cause nitrogen overload, which could harm plants or grass. The best time to apply them is during the growing season, from early spring to mid-summer, when plants and lawns can take full advantage of the nutrients,” explains Lea.

However, the frequency can change if you’re using compost. Irish-Hanson notes that compost can be applied as needed and usually in the springtime if it’s part of a mulch combination. That said, Langelo recommends avoiding applying coffee grounds on lawns during the warmer months.

About the Experts

Jonathan Russell-Anelli is a senior lecturer and extension associate within the School of Integrative Plant Science at Cornell University. He has conducted and continues to research how the characteristics of soil change in urban environments influenced by humans. Furthermore, he has contributed to several publications covering soil and factors that impact growth.
Linda Langelo is a Colorado-based horticulturist with more than 20 years of industry experience. She serves as an extension horticulture specialist at Colorado State University and is the producer of The Relentless Gardener podcast.
Laura Irish-Hanson is a horticulture extension education at the University of Minnesota. Before her role as an extension educator, she taught classes on plant propagation at the university. She has experience using coffee grounds (making up no more than 10% volume) on plants as part of her vermicomposting under-sink set-up used on in-ground and larger houseplant pots.
Daniel Barychko has been a horticulturist at the Central Florida Zoo for three years. When not helping to care for the plants at the zoo, he is an active member of the Florida Native Plant Society.
Luke Gatiboni, Ph.D., is a professor within the Department of Crop and Soil Sciences and an extension specialist in soil fertility and nutrient management at North Carolina State University.
Andrea Masterson is a horticulturist and collections manager at The Buffalo and Erie County Botanical Gardens. With 10 years of experience, she works to maintain the 12-acre site which houses an arboretum and a multitude of plant collections.
Stephen Pryce Lea is the deputy executive director of Horticulture at the Delaware Botanic Gardens.
Wendy Wilber is a Florida master gardener volunteer program coordinator and horticulture extension agent for the University of Florida IFAS. With more than 20 years of industry experience and a master’s degree in horticultural sciences from the University of Florida, she is a specialist in all things landscaping.

Sources

Steven Fonte, Ph.D., an associate professor in the Department of Soil at Crop Sciences at Colorado State University; email interview, March 18, 2025.
Washington State University: “myths, miracles…or marketing Coffee grounds— will they perk up plants?” (2009)

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The Best Time to Prune Trees for Healthy Growth

Laurie M Nichols — Mon, 07 Apr 2025 21:10:41 +0000

Mature, healthy trees are among the most valuable assets on any residential property. After all, a fifty-year-old tree cannot easily be replaced. However, despite their size and strength, trees still need care to stay healthy and look their best. Pruning is a crucial part of tree maintenance, and it’s important to know when to prune trees and when to leave them alone.

While there are general pruning guidelines, the ideal timing will vary based on tree species and age. In this article, learn the best pruning times for your trees with expert advice from two horticultural experts.

Why Prune Trees?

“In the woods, trees do fine without us. In our landscapes, some trees benefit from regular pruning,” Suzanne DeJohn, horticulturalist at KidsGardening.org, says. Pruning helps preserve tree health, control shape and ensure safety.Without pruning, trees can become overcrowded and develop fungus from poor airflow or become overgrown. Pruning also removes dangerous dead or overhanging branches that may fall and cause damage. Failing to prune fruit trees can lead to reduced fruit production and disease.

Tools Needed to Prune Trees

Safety gear: Wear safety glasses and protective gloves when pruning trees with hand tools.
Bypass pruners/pruning shears: Ideal for trimming suckers and thin branches up to 3/4 inch thick.
Loppers: Longer handles mean better leverage to cut thicker branches up to 2-inch thick.
Pruning saw: A pruning saw with a curved or straight blade is best for branches thicker than 2 inches.
Pole Pruner: “Pole pruners help reach higher branches,” DeJohn says. They feature an extendable pole with a pruning saw or shears at the end.

When To Prune Most Trees

Late winter or early spring is a good time to prune most trees, including deciduous, evergreen and fruit trees, as this is their dormant season. “Dormant pruning” reduces stress on the tree and helps it recover before new growth emerges.

For deciduous trees, remove crowded or crossing branches to improve airflow and prune to shape. “Never remove more than 20 to 25 percent of branches in one season,” Samuel Schmitz, horticulture professor at Triton College, says. On young trees, prune offshoots and secondary trunks to encourage a strong main trunk.

For evergreens, pruning will mostly consist of removing any dead or diseased branches. Dormant prune lightly over several seasons to shape.

Avoid pruning any trees in fall, as it can expose the tree to diseases or stimulate new growth that may not survive winter. However, “It’s fine to remove dead or diseased wood at any time,” DeJohn says.

When to prune fruit trees

“Most fruit trees should be pruned in late winter, after the coldest temperature have passed but before the buds begin to swell and growth begins,” DeJohn says. “Sometimes, fruit trees are also lightly pruned in summer.”

When to prune flowering trees

For spring-blooming trees, prune right after they finish flowering. “If you wait too long to prune, you’ll remove the buds that produce the next year’s flowers,” DeJohn says.

Summer-blooming trees can be pruned in late winter to early spring before new growth begins. “They produce their flowers on the current season’s growth, so you won’t be removing any flower buds at that time,” DeJohn says.

How Often to Prune Most Trees

This will vary depending on the age and species of tree, but a general rule of thumb is every three to five years for most deciduous trees. “Larger trees may need to be pruned only as needed to remove dead branches or those that pose a hazard,” DeJohn says. Established evergreens often remove dead branches on their own and need less frequent pruning. Consider consulting with a certified arborist for tree-specific pruning recommendations.

How often to prune fruit trees

Fruit trees benefit from annual pruning in the late winter or early spring to remove dead branches and encourage new growth, as well as a light pruning in the summer for shaping. “Winter is best to do any structural or hard pruning,” Schmitz says. “Training and minor pruning can happen year-round.”

How often to prune flowering trees

When young, consider pruning flowering trees each year.”Young trees benefit from pruning to help guide their growth to the shape we desire,” DeJohn says. Once established, prune flowering trees when necessary to maintain shape or thin, crowded or crossing branches.

Pruning Timeline Tips

When to prune trees throughout the year:

Prune most trees from late December to February. During this time, remove dead branches, thin canopies, shape young trees and prune summer-flowering trees.
From March to May, prune spring-flowering trees after they bloom.
Late spring to early summer is for light, aesthetic pruning or removing suckers.
Avoid pruning during the hot summer months through fall, as trees can become stressed or diseased.

About the Experts

Samuel Schmitz is a full-time faculty instructor in the Horticulture Department at Triton College in Illinois. He was formerly Ground Operations Supervisor for Ball Horticultural Company for 16 years.
Suzanne DeJohn is a horticulturalist at KidsGardening.org, a national non-profit organization providing support to youth garden programs since 1982. Suzanne formerly worked for the nonprofit National Gardening Association’s Education Department as a writer and program promoter.

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How Much Should You Pay Someone to Mow Your Lawn?

Casey Clark — Thu, 03 Apr 2025 14:43:37 +0000

Unless you live in a HOA community, then mowing the lawn is a responsibility that falls on you. While you could buy a lawnmower and trim it yourself, that can be time-consuming and difficult — perhaps you don’t own a lawnmower, or you don’t have the time or energy to trim it yourself. Luckily, there are people out there — both professional landscapers and non-professionals — who can do this service for you in a timely and efficient manner. This raises the question of how much to pay for lawn mowing.

Ahead, we spoke with a lawn mowing expert about how much to pay for lawn mowing and the factors to consider when it comes to finding someone to get the job done — here’s what he had to say.

How Much Should I Pay a Non-Professional to Mow My Lawn?

It’s likely that a teenager in the neighborhood may knock on your door if your grass is growing out and ask to mow your lawn. In some cases, an overeager teen might say they’ll do the whole thing for $20 — in that case, you found yourself a pretty good deal. If they don’t have a price in mind, Steve Corcoran, CEO of Lawn Love, says $30 is pretty average for a non-professional. For those larger lawns, you could bump that price up to $40 as a nice gesture.

Even though they may not be professional per se, they are doing work for you and deserve a tip, too, so don’t forget that — an extra $5 or $10 can go a long way, especially if they did a great job. You may even find that they come back to help shovel in the winter, too, so it’s a win-win, and you have someone you trust, too.

How Much Should I Pay a Professional to Mow My Lawn?

As you can imagine, paying a professional to mow your lawn will be more expensive. That said, you aren’t just paying them for their time but also their expertise.

“Professionals tend to have more in-depth or expansive knowledge about lawn care and landscaping, while non-professionals may just know how to mow lawns with a mower and their expertise ends at that,” says Corcoran. “Professionals also typically have more formal training and certifications.”

According to Corcoran, the overall average across the country for hiring a lawn mower is about $77 – with it going as low as about $30 for small yards and non-professionals or upwards of $250 for professionals and large yards.

Additionally, other factors can influence the cost, such as the size of your yard, its specific needs, average labor costs in your area, the time it takes to complete the job, how many people come out to do the job and more. “Where you live plays a big factor too; for example, it will cost more in southern California than in Mississippi,” Corcoran says.

When it comes to paying a professional lawn mower, flat rates are generally preferred over hourly rates. For those bigger yards and lawns, more than one professional may come out to do the job. In this case, an equal rate is expected for each individual and separate tips so everyone goes home satisfied.

Should You Tip a Landscaping Service for Mowing the Lawn?

Yes, similar to any other industry where someone else completes a service for you, a tip is customary. “The appropriate tip depends on the cost of the job, but the average tip for a single job is about $7,” says Corcoran.

You can’t go wrong with tipping 20 percent, just like you would at a restaurant or nail salon. If it’s super hot outside, then maybe tack on a few extra dollars to show your gratitude for the hustle and effort put in.

At the end of the day, having a well-maintained lawn is essential to making sure your home looks its best all year round (especially during the spring and summer months) and helps minimize the risk of pests such as ticks and fleas. Whether you opt for a professional landscaper to get the job done or a neighborhood teen, be sure to pay them appropriately and treat them with respect.

About the Experts

Steve Corcoran, CEO of Lawn Love; email interview, March 28, 2025.

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Take Your Lawn to the Next Level With the Coolest New Shrubs

Luke Miller — Wed, 02 Apr 2025 21:35:08 +0000

Fire Ball Seedless® Burning Bush (Euonymus alatus)

Everyone loves the fiery red intensity of the foliage in fall, but burning bush is considered a pest in some areas. Enter Fire Ball Seedless, a new cultivar that is seedless, sterile and, most importantly, non-invasive. Developed by the Mountain Horticultural Crops Research Station in North Carolina, this burning bush cultivar is part of the Proven Winners® ColorChoice® collection. It has the durability and infernal-red autumnal foliage of burning bush without the risk of it spreading into wild areas and out-competing native plants.

Named 2025 Professional’s Choice Green Thumb award winner, Fireball grows 5 to 6 feet tall and wide and makes a fine screen or backdrop for a mixed border. USDA Hardiness Zones 4-8. Photo courtesy of Proven Winners ColorChoice Shrubs.

Paisley Pup® Doghobble (Leucothoe fontanesiana)

This underappreciated species goes by several names, including drooping leucothoe, fetterbush and mountain doghobble. Whatever you call it, you’ll appreciate this broadleaf evergreen for its handsome foliage and the array of green, cream, white, bronze and yellow hues. And as if that weren’t enough, it also features arching stems holding racemes of fragrant white flowers to delight both people and pollinators alike.

Paisley Pup is a low-growing cultivar, just 3 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide, so it can be used as a midrange plant in a mixed bed. It is shade-tolerant and deer-resistant. USDA Hardiness Zones 5-8. Photo courtesy of Proven Winners ColorChoice Shrubs.

Oso Easy En Fuego® Rose (Rosa spp.)

Oso Easy landscape roses have a reputation for living up to their name, for they are oh-so-easy to grow! En Fuego keeps the proud lineage going with its beauty, plus its adaptability to cold and hot climates and built-in disease resistance to black spot and powdery mildew. The large, intensely colorful flowers, set off against glossy dark green foliage, start out yellow and red before opening fully to an electric orange.

Part of Proven Winners® ColorChoice® collection, En Fuego matures at 3 to 4 feet tall, 18 in. wide and makes an excellent addition to a perennial garden or dwarf conifer bed. USDA Hardiness Zones 4-9. Photo courtesy of Proven Winners ColorChoice Shrubs.

Kodiak® Jet Black™ Diervilla (Diervilla x ‘SMNDSN’)

The Kodiak Diervilla line of Proven Winners ColorChoice shrubs has gained fans for its easygoing nature and ability to accept different lighting conditions. Homeowners also like the fall foliage and the bright flower clusters, although the latter are sometimes hard to see against the summer foliage.

Enter Kodiak Jet Black Diervilla, which features contrasting burgundy-black foliage that remains strikingly dark all season long, helping the small yellow flowers stand out. Kodiak Jet Black Diervilla grows 3 to 4 feet tall and wide and makes an excellent addition to shrub borders or to surround a deck. USDA Hardiness Zones 4-7. Photo courtesy of Proven Winners ColorChoice Shrubs.

Autumn Moonstruck® Azalea (Rhododendron hybrid ‘Roblezf’)

A repeat bloomer is always appreciated, but one with eye-catching foliage as well. It seems Encore® Azalea has hit another home run with Autumn Moonstruck, the first in this popular series of reblooming azaleas to offer variegated foliage. The emerald and chartreuse variegation has enough charm to carry the show all season—with or without the double white blooms, which appear in spring and then sporadically after that in summer and fall.

This azalea likes the sun, too, so it can be massed as a colorful hedge. It grows to 5 feet tall, 4 feet wide or kept smaller and grown in a pot. USDA Hardiness Zones 7-10. Photo courtesy of Encore Azaleas.

Golden Child® Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis ‘Mirjam’)

This is one arborvitae that refuses to blend into the background. This Monrovia introduction not only grows in the garden, but it also glows in the garden with finely cut foliage in bright hues of yellow and yellow-green that resist scorching in the sun. In winter, the foliage takes on a light bronze cast for even more variety. With a slow growth rate and compact mature size of 18 to 24 in. tall and wide, this globe-shaped evergreen makes a well-behaved addition to the garden. USDA Hardiness Zones 4-8. Photo courtesy of Monrovia.

Chateau® de Saumur Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus ‘Minsyanlav02’)

Like its other rose of Sharon brethren, this shrub is fast-growing and full of colorful flowers in late summer. However, there is one major difference: this is the first in Monrovia’s popular Chateau series to feature fluffy, peony-like blooms with frilly center petals. The large violet-pink flowers cover stems from top to bottom for a long blooming season into fall.

Chateau de Saumur grows 5 to 6 feet tall and 4 feet wide and makes an excellent informal hedge or backdrop for shorter plants. USDA Hardiness Zones 5-9. Photo courtesy of Monrovia.

Seaside Serenade® Pebble Beach Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla ‘SC-04-20’)

The newest member of Monrovia’s Seaside Serenade hydrangea collection, Pebble Beach boasts large mophead flowers—purple in acidic soil, raspberry pink in alkaline—spring through summer. Blooms, which have a hint of bright green color for an intriguing twist, are held on sturdy, dark red stems to resist weather.

Like others in the Seaside Serenade series, Pebble Beach has a compact, bushy growth habit, growing 3 to 4 feet tall and wide. It works well as a focal point in the garden, massed as an informal border or even grown in a container as an accent plant. Also, the blooms make excellent cut flowers in a vase. USDA Hardiness Zones 4-9. Photo courtesy of Monrovia.

Violet Mist® Chastetree (Vitex agnus-castus)

With a mature size of just 3 to 4 feet in height and width, Violet Mist from First Editions® is more compact than other varieties and can fit neatly into many smaller landscapes. It also reacts well to pruning and, since it blooms on new wood, can be trimmed back in spring to keep an even tighter habit—without jeopardizing the season’s floral show.

Speaking of which, the flowers on Violet Mist are a pollinator magnet, appearing in profusion in early summer and showing off their attractive blue-purple hues. Deadheading encourages reblooming. USDA Hardiness Zones 6-9. Photo courtesy of First Editions.

Bloombux® Blush Rhododendron (Rhododendron hybrid)

Here’s a colorful alternative to boring boxwood—and one less prone to winter damage, too. Growing just 18 to 24 in. tall, it’s a perfect option for an elegant low hedge. But rather than settling for a long season of greenery, Bloombux Blush offers something extra with a floral show worthy of rhododendrons.

The large, 3 to 4-in. wide blooms on this Bloomin’ Easy® introduction have a blush-pink hue when they appear in spring and are sure to please the eye while satisfying pollinators. USDA Hardiness Zone 5-9. Photo courtesy of Bloomin’ Easy.

Spice Cowboy™ Snowball Bush (Viburnum carlesii ‘SMNVCST’)

Spice Cowboy Snowball Bush combines visual appeal with fragrant blooms and seasonal color changes. This versatile shrub, available through Jackson & Perkins®, grows 6 to 10 feet tall and 4 to 5 feet wide, so it can be shaped into a small tree or grown as a dense hedge.

Large clusters of snowball-like flowers boast a spicy-sweet scent in spring, so consider placing the shrub near a patio, deck or other spot in the garden where you can appreciate this feature. Come fall, you can look forward to seeing the foliage turn fiery orange-red as a final act. Spice Cowboy is highly adaptable, thriving in most moist, well-drained soils. It is also deer-resistant. USDA Hardiness Zones 4-8. Photo courtesy of Proven Winners ColorChoice Shrubs.

Li’l Annie Oakleaf™ Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia ‘Oakann1588’)

Here’s a downsized version of the classic oakleaf hydrangea that’s a great fit for gardens of all sizes. While the North American native species grows 6 to 8 feet tall and wide, Li’l Annie oakleaf hydrangea has a more compact reach of 3 to 4 feet tall and 4 to 5 feet wide, making it more suitable for use as a foundation plant or midrange addition to a mixed bed.

Available from Star® Roses and Plants, the shrub has large, white flowers that age to pink and host many beneficial pollinators. As a bonus, the green foliage eventually turns burgundy for added drama in the fall garden. USDA Hardiness Zones 5-9.

Suntastic™ Pink Abelia (Abelia hybrid ‘Pink’)

This new and improved abelia from the Southern Living® Plant Collection is a compact shrub that adds oodles of color and texture without making a gardener raise a sweat. The brightly variegated foliage is a treat throughout the year, and the plant itself matures at just 2 to 3 feet tall and 3 to 5 feet wide, so it’s perfect for borders, foundations or even containers. Moreover, this water-wise beauty is heat tolerant and thrives in full sun. USDA Hardiness Zones 6-10. Photo courtesy of PlantHaven International, planthaven.com

Mop Top™ Butterfly Bush (Buddleia alternifolia)

With its weeping branches and compact growth habit, Mop Top brings a touch of elegance and grace to a garden. It’s not lacking in color, either, as this new shrub is full of fragrant lavender flowers from mid-spring to mid-summer, much to the delight of bees, butterflies and hummingbirds.

Mop Top stays manageable at 3 to 5 feet tall and wide, offering versatility for small garden spaces. This low-maintenance shrub, available through Jackson & Perkins®, has excellent drought tolerance and enhanced cold hardiness. It’s also sterile, so it won’t cause concern over self-seeding. USDA Hardiness Zones 4-8. Photo courtesy of Proven Winners ColorChoice Shrubs.

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The Truth About Using Salt to Eliminate Weeds

Karuna Eberl — Wed, 02 Apr 2025 18:48:26 +0000

When I lived in Florida, my yard was made from pea rock, so keeping up with weeding was a hassle. However, since I lived next to a waterway, I didn’t want to use chemicals that could harm aquatic life, so I considered killing the weeds with salt. That’s when a friend pointed out that historically, conquerors have used salt on their opponents’ agricultural fields to keep crops from growing. That made me wonder if it was truly something I should be doing to my own land.

“It is a myth that salt is a safe, natural alternative to chemical herbicides,” says turf specialist Bennett Barrier. “It’s a cheap shortcut, but in the long run, it will cause long-lasting damage to the soil and plants growing nearby, impacting biodiversity.”

Here’s what you need to know about killing weeds with salt and when, if ever, it’s a good solution.

Does Salt Kill Weeds?

Yes, high concentrations of salt kills weeds by drawing moisture out of their cells and interfering with their ability to uptake water and nutrients.

Does Salt Kill Weeds Permanently?

It depends on the amount of salt and what kind of plants you’re trying to kill, but in general, small amounts of salt tend to kill only the above-ground parts of the plant, not necessarily the roots. Because of that, salt works best on smaller, shallow-rooted weeds versus perennials like dandelions and thistles that have deeper roots, says lawn care expert Eduard Negodenko.

Can I Use Salt to Kill Weeds on My Lawn?

Yes, but it’s not a good idea since salt also kills beneficial plants and can damage your lawn, making it uneven and sickly looking, says home renovation expert Keith Sant. Salt also changes the chemistry of your soil and harms microbes that are important for maintaining soil health. If you have excess salt in your soil, nothing will be able to grow there again until rainwater gradually washes it away, which will also make it harder to renovate or re-sod the lawn.

If you do decide to use salt anyway, lawn care expert Rob Palmer recommends adding ingredients such as baking soda, vinegar and dish soap to make the mixture more effective. “Since salt is the main ingredient in baking soda, it can help control weeds when applied correctly,” he says. Vinegar’s acidity can further help dry out the target weeds, while dish soap helps the mixture stick to the leaves.

Can I Use Salt To Kill Weeds in My Driveway?

Yes, but use it sparingly. “Since you are dealing with hard, compacted surfaces like concrete, the salt will be more effective here without doing too much damage to surrounding plant life,” says Barrier. “But it will, nonetheless, still affect the soil beneath the driveway, especially if the salt is washed into any cracks or crevices, leading to future growth problems in those areas.”

Negodenko recommends pouring a 3:1 water-to-salt mixture into cracks in driveways. Only apply it during a dry time to avoid runoff into areas where plants are to be grown.

Also, beware of using excess de-icing salts in the winter, as the salt and other additives in those pose a significant threat to your lawn, soil and greater ecosystem health.

“Over time, it can build up in the soil, creating an inhospitable environment for plant growth,” says Palmer. “Certain turfgrasses, like tall fescue and perennial ryegrass, have a higher tolerance to salt exposure, while more sensitive varieties, such as Kentucky bluegrass, may suffer greater damage.”

As an alternative, Palmer recommends de-icers, including calcium magnesium acetate (CMA), sand, kitty litter, beet juice or brine solutions.

What’s the Best Alternative To Salt for Killing Weeds?

Some more sustainable alternatives to killing weeds with salt include:

Horticultural-grade vinegar, which is especially effective on tender and sprouting plants. “It’s great for killing weeds in no time, and is the fastest way to kill those plants,” says Negodenko.
Boiling water, which is best for weeds growing within cracks and gravel paths. “It is simple and straight to the point,” says Negodenko.
Pulling weeds by hand or with a weeding tool, which is best for plants with deeper roots.
Flame weeding with a propane torch, which won’t damage the surrounding soil.
Wood chips or straw mulch, which blocks sunlight and thus suppresses weed germination.
Organic weed barriers (refrain from plastic-based products, which also damage soil health).

“In severe cases, one could use something more preventive like a pre-emergent,” says Negodenko. For that, he recommends aerating the soil, over-seeding, then applying corn gluten meal. “It’s a great way to kill weeds and preserve a healthy lawn,” he says.

About the Experts

Rob Palmer is Brand President at the lawn care franchise Lawn Squad, and has been in the lawn care business for more than 30-years.
Eduard Negodenko has been designing landscapes and providing lawn and garden expertise for more than seven years. He currently work at Avanti Landscaping in Toronto, Canada.
Bennett Barrier has years of experience with lawn care, and is currently a turf specialist and CEO at DFW Turf Solutions.
Keith Sant is Founder and CEO of Kind House Buyers, based in Tacoma, Washington, and specializes in buying, renovating and selling highly damaged houses.

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10 DIY Pond, Fountain and Waterfall Projects That Will Transform Your Yard

noelle devoe — Tue, 01 Apr 2025 17:57:36 +0000

Peaceful Pond and Deck

Are you in need of a little serenity now? A reflecting pond is just the place to rest your gaze after a trying day. This pond and deck are unique, not only in appearance but also in building technique. Most ponds are free-form, informal shapes that have either soft or hard plastic liners dug into the ground. But for this homemade pond, we used simple wood walls to frame it and form the base for the surrounding deck. A single-piece rubber liner keeps the water in. And the garden berm that surrounds one end is practical and has a nice landscaping feature. We simply mounded the soil dug from the pond hole so we wouldn’t have to haul it away.

This homemade pond isn’t exactly a weekend project. In fact, even if you’re in great shape, you should expect to spend the better part of a long day just digging the hole and laying in the gravel footings. The good news is that the construction is simple and doesn’t require a bunch of expensive tools.

One-Day Mini Pond and Fountain

Build this compact, charming, inexpensive little pond and fountain in one day using simple off-the-shelf materials. This homemade water fountain will spruce up your yard and provide a pleasant place for you to sit and for neighborhood birds to get a drink and splash around a bit.

Pond in a Box

Build this simple, above-ground pond with a trellis and fountain on a weekend. The advantages of an above-ground patio waterfall are:

With this design, there’s practically none of the worst part of pond building — gut-busting digging. And that also means there’s no huge pile of dirt to get rid of.
Talk about instant gratification! Build the walls and trellis in the morning, assemble the pond in the afternoon, add the trim the next day, and then go buy goldfish!
Traditional in-ground ponds can be a drowning hazard for toddlers and pets, but this above-ground design reduces the risk.

Low-Maintenance Backyard Pond

A backyard pond with running water, floating plants and darting fish can make a bland space breathtaking. Keeping a patio waterfall attractive and trouble-free takes work, but with a little extra care at the planning and building stages, you can create a pond that’s almost maintenance-free.

Patio Pond

This freestanding pond-in-a-box features a place for water plants and planters for in-ground plants. Construction is easy for this homemade pond, and a brush-on rubber lining keeps the container watertight.

Pond with Waterfall

Add the magic of moving water to your backyard with a waterfall and pond. Preformed shells, rubber liners and off-the-shelf pumps and filters put the project’s costs and skill requirements within easy reach of any do-it-yourselfer to build a homemade water fountain. You’ll put in your share of sweat equity, busting sod and hauling stone for a patio waterfall. But when you’re done, you’ll have a landscape feature to enjoy for years.

Private Pond and Waterfall

A backyard pond doesn’t have to be big to have a big impact. This private pond is less than 6 feet long and just over 4 feet across. But with its striking stone surround and sparkling waterfall, it can become the centerpiece of any landscape. Build this small pond in as little as one weekend! This design is versatile, too. You can make the pond twice as large as this one or half the size. You can locate it on flat terrain or tuck the stone waterfall wall into a slope. Unlike most ponds, this one won’t leave you with a small mountain of soil to deal with—you can simply use the excavated soil to form a berm behind the waterfall wall.

Bamboo Waterfall

You don’t have to settle for some kitschy plastic-resin waterfall if you’re looking for a unique water feature. There’s a simple and elegant way to add a soothing waterfall to your backyard, and you don’t have to be particularly handy or have a shop full of tools. Follow these simple steps to build this bamboo sluice (in a single day) and a small pond to catch the water, complete with a pump and water plants.

Natural-Looking Artesian Fountain

If you’re looking for an eye-catching feature for your patio, deck or even front entry, this natural-looking fountain will do the trick. Designed around a special stone with a 1-in. hole drilled through it, water from the pump gurgles up through the hole and overflows the stone. To reduce maintenance, we eliminated the collection pond. A gravel-filled reservoir below collects the overflow for recirculation. Since no sunlight can reach the water in the reservoir and support algae growth, the water stays pristine.

Cast Concrete Fountain

Enjoy the splash and sparkle of water indoors or out—with minimal maintenance and expense. Learn how to build this fountain out of concrete. You’ll save several hundred dollars building this fountain yourself instead of buying it. So make a trip to your local home center to pick up the supplies, then follow these how-to steps to cast the fountain.

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When Are You Too Old to Mow Your Own Lawn? Experts Weigh In

Shifrah Combiths — Fri, 28 Mar 2025 14:49:22 +0000

Nothing compares to the first flush of spring with its warm breezes, blooming foliage, and sunny days. It’s also the time of year that regular landscaping must begin again, including mowing the lawn, which brings up the common question of what age to stop mowing the lawn.

For some older adults especially, mowing the lawn is a great opportunity to get some exercise while enjoying the sunshine — and a nicely shorn lawn afterward. But there’s a dark side to mowing the lawn. More than 80,000 people are hospitalized each year for lawn mower-related injuries, according to a 2006 study by Annals of Emergency Medicine (via Johns Hopkins Bloomberg School of Public Health).

Tragically, many of these injuries happen to children. However, lawn mower accidents are also prevalent among older adults who may not be as spry as they once were and who may be more susceptible to overexertion. This naturally leads to the question, “How old is too old to mow the lawn?”

A common response is to suggest that older adults simply not mow the lawn altogether, but experts say there is no specific age to stop mowing the lawn. Rather, being aware of the risks, taking steps to mitigate them, and being aware of one’s own health limits should be the deciding factor. Ahead, we break down advice from experts.

Risks of Mowing the Lawn

Whether you’re using a riding lawn mower or a push mower, mowing the lawn comes with a host of risks. According to the study published by the Annals of Emergency Medicine, “the most common injuries were caused by strikes from debris, such as rocks and branches, propelled by the mower’s spinning blades.” A study published in the National Library of Medicine found that the most common types of injuries were lacerations, fractures, and amputations. The most common injury locations were the wrist or hand and foot or toe.

Emergency medicine physician Jordan Kapper, whose background includes trauma, reveals that after 15 years in suburban and rural emergency departments, he’s witnessed every lawnmower injury imaginable. “The mechanism of injury that haunts our trauma bay [is] the classic ‘cleaning the mower deck’ maneuver,” Kapper says. “Just last month, I treated a young man and seasoned maintenance worker [that] lost three fingers. The blade had stopped visually, but the mower was still on, and once the grass/vine clog was gone, so were his fingers.”

While push lawnmowers are dangerous, riding lawnmowers can be too. Kapper explains, “Riding mower rollovers present a different problem entirely. The injuries typically involve crushing mechanisms — pelvic fractures, flail chest, pneumothoraces — often with delayed internal hemorrhage that becomes apparent only after the initial trauma survey.” Kapper highlights how age becomes a factor with these types of lawn mower accidents: “The age component here is important as well. When that machine starts to tip, you have approximately 1.5 seconds to dismount before physics takes over.” Older adults may not be able to move as quickly as they once could.

Cardiologist Matthew Segar adds, “The major risks of mowing the lawn include falls, musculoskeletal injuries from repetitive motions, worsening of respiratory conditions from grass allergens or mower emission, and heat-related illness. From a cardiology perspective, mowing the lawn in hot weather can cause strain on the heart.”

Kapper adds the following related to older adults and cardiac trouble when mowing the lawn: “The cardiac events we see follow a predictable pattern: deconditioned cardiovascular systems suddenly subjected to high-intensity and consistent exertion, peripheral vasodilation from heat exposure and a drive of many to ‘push through the pain until the job is done’ leads to cardiovascular catastrophe. This can mean heart attacks, deadly arrhythmias or simple heat exertion.”

In addition to the physical risks, lawn mower injuries have substantial financial implications. The same National Library of Medicine study found that mean emergency department charges were $2,482 per patient, while the mean inpatient charges were a whopping $36,987.

How Old Is Too Old to Mow the Lawn?

According to the Johns Hopkins Bloomberg School of Public Health, most lawn mower-related injuries occur in children under 15 and adults ages 60 and over. Science Direct reports, “Lawnmower injuries increase with age, with peaks in persons older than 59 years.”

With these statistics in mind, many may feel that older adults should simply stop mowing the lawn to minimize the risk of injury. But this would deprive older individuals of not only a worthwhile activity and an opportunity to be outside and even socialize, but could also lessen their chances of staying healthy and fit.

Kapper agrees. “What many safety articles miss,” he says, is that “deconditioning poses equal danger. I regularly admit patients in their 70s who’ve suffered falls simply walking across their living rooms because they’ve eliminated all physical activity from their lives. Their well-intentioned adult children banned them from yard work but provided no alternative activity to maintain functional strength.”

Rather than banning older adults from yard work, Kapper suggests the following: “My evidence-based recommendation isn’t typical. Beyond cardiovascular conditioning, I prescribe resistance training specifically targeting functional movements. Research from the geriatric literature demonstrates that maintaining grip strength and core stability dramatically reduces mortality across multiple domains. For lawn mower safety specifically, the ability to quickly generate force (to jump clear of a tipping mower) or maintain balance (on uneven terrain) directly correlates with prevention of severe injury.”

Segar agrees that there is no specific age at which to stop mowing the lawn. “The decision should be based on your individual health status and physical capabilities rather than chronological age,” he says.

Tips to Mow the Lawn Safely

Much of lawnmower injury prevention involves actions that those who are using the lawnmowers can control.

Kapper advises keeping a few general things in mind: “Mowing the lawn during cooler parts of the day, staying hydrated, and taking frequent breaks can help improve your heart health while mowing the lawn. It’s also important to know the signs and symptoms of overexertion. This includes chest pain, dizziness, and excessive fatigue. Using a self-propelled or riding lawn mower can also help reduce exertion.”

David Bishai, M.D., Ph.D., M.P.H., senior author of the study published in the Annals of Emergency Medicine, and associate professor in the Department of Population and Family Health Sciences at the Bloomberg School, recommends the following more specific safety measures.

Wear goggles, long pants and close-toed shoes with grip soles
Clear the yard of debris before mowing
Keep everyone from the yard while mowing
People with histories of chest, back or joint pain should reconsider mowing
Use care and wear protective gloves when servicing the mower or changing blades
Many injuries occur while lifting the mower—get help if needed
Never service the mower while it is running
Mow only in good weather conditions—avoid mowing in high-heat
Do not use a riding mower on steep hills or embankments
Do not carry passengers on riding mowers or tow passengers behind the mower

About the Experts

Jordan Kapper, M.D., is a distinguished Emergency Medicine physician and successful real estate investor. With a background in trauma, airway management, sepsis, stroke, and travel medicine, Dr. Kapper is a highly skilled and adaptable physician. He has trained at a level 1 trauma center and is board-certified in Emergency Medicine.
Matt Segar, M.D., is a board-certified cardiologist and is currently a cardiac electrophysiology fellow at the Texas Heart Institute, where he also completed his cardiology fellowship. Dr. Segar received his medical degree from the Indiana University School of Medicine and graduated from Internal Medicine residency at UT Southwestern Medical Center.

Sources

Johns Hopkins Bloomberg School of Public Health: “Injuries from Lawn Mowing Increase Nationwide” (2006).
Science Direct: “Lawnmower Injuries in the United States: 1996 to 2004” (2006).
National Library of Medicine: “Incidence, Distribution, and Cost of Lawn-Mower Injuries in the United States, 2006-2013” (2018).

The post When Are You Too Old to Mow Your Own Lawn? Experts Weigh In appeared first on Family Handyman.

How To Build a Modern Gazebo to Enhance Your Outdoor Space

Carmen De La Paz — Thu, 27 Mar 2025 17:35:14 +0000

Our Gazebo Project

The team at Family Handyman joined forces to take advantage of some open backyard space and build a gazebo that not only looks good but also expands its living and entertainment space. Lots of planning and coordination took place up front, permits were pulled, and materials landed in the driveway.

Here’s our step-by-step process for making a gazebo. Get some extra sets of hands and allow yourself the time to get it done right. Rome wasn’t built in a day, and neither was this gazebo!

Pour concrete footings

The 6×6 posts will be attached to footings in a square that measures 101-1/2-in. to the center of the footings, or exactly eight feet between the faces of the posts.

All your deck and wall measurements hinge on these four posts. Ensure the footings are positioned accurately so that the posts and their faces line up in a perfect square. Use eight-foot wood spacers, or make a layout jig to ensure the spacing is correct.
Use a rented auger or manual post hole digger to dig holes 48-in. deep and at least eight inches wide to accommodate an eight-inch concrete form tube. Both tools will come in handy as you get deeper.
Using a reciprocating saw, cut the concrete forming tubes to 48-in. and insert them into the holes. Make sure the tubes are seated in the bottom of the hole and flush to the soil level. If you have a grade variance, make sure the tops of the cement tubes are level with each other. Check their levelness with a piece of wood and a six-foot level.
For improved drainage around the footings, start by filling the concrete form tubes with six inches of sand followed by six inches of gravel. Use a tamper to compact the sand and gravel at the bottom of the tube form and eliminate air pockets. Make sure the sand and gravel are as compacted as possible.
Fill the form tubes with concrete, double-checking the height of all the tubes to ensure they are level. If the concrete form tube has empty space around it once in the hole, backfill it with dirt and sand to prevent it from moving. Allow the cement to cure overnight before proceeding to the next step.

Attach post bases to footings

To attach the posts to the footings, you will be installing galvanized post bases on top of each cured footing as follows:

Before screwing the post bases to the footings, simply set your post bases on top of each dried footing and measure to make sure the placement is as you intended for the wood posts. This is your second opportunity to make sure they are all level and the four post bases are square to each other.
Once you are confident of the placement of the post bases, drill 1/2-in. holes with a masonry bit and hammer drill in your footings to secure the included post base bolts. Ensure the hole is drilled deep enough so the head of the five-inch bolt sits flush or below the line where the actual post will sit on the post base.
After drilling and vacuuming out debris from the holes for the post bases, use a caulk gun to fill each hole with high-strength acrylic anchoring adhesive, insert the bolt, and secure the post base to the footing with a nut. Allow the anchoring adhesive to cure.

Mark and drill the posts

With galvanized post bases secured on top of each concrete footing, set the 6×6 posts in position within the metal post base. Use a post level to verify each post sits plumb and level. The post bases have pre-drilled holes in their metal tabs designed to hold the post with a bolt from side to side.

Mark holes for bolt placement on both sides of each wood post. Once holes are marked, pull the wood post out of the post base, lay them down on the ground and drill holes, as straight as possible, from the marked locations on each side of the 6×6 post so they meet in the middle. Once through test that they are straight enough for the carraige bolt to slide through before moving on.

Note: While the posts are on the ground, cut the two 35-1/2-in. stub wall posts from the gazebo’s back 6×6 posts.

Frame the deck

Cut all the 2×6 joists and rim joists to build the deck structure.
Nail the joists and rim joists together using a framing nailer as in the drawing above with both sides of the post bases being straddled by deck joists running in the opposite direction as the decking will be laid. Most composite decking manufacturers say you need floor joists every 16-in., but in my experience, it is better to have them closer as composite decking tends to flex.
Check that the deck frame is square and level. Concrete deck blocks on a pad of gravel help hold the frame in place as you attach the joists.
Using a carriage bolt installed parallel to the joists, secure the 6×6 posts to the metal post base, through the holes in the post base and the holes you pre-drilled in the posts in the previous step.
Drill a hole for a second carriage bolt that will sandwich together the 6×6 posts and the two deck joists straddling them. Ensure that your deck frame and posts are square and level before drilling them. Drilling these holes straight will be challenging since you will require a long drill bit with some flex to it, and some of the floor joists will be in the way. It’s just a matter of making your hole straight enough for the carriage bolt to pass through and staying clear of the metal tabs on the post base.
Place the longer, 10-inch carriage bolts through the posts and the joist and tighten them down to secure the deck frame and 6×6 posts.
For support and stability, install two rows of 2×6 blocking 39-in. in from each side of the deck and staggard along the lines to aid in nailing. The only critical blocking piece placement is the one set 17 -1/2-in. over from the front posts, which will serve as the anchor for the short stub wall post. Install the blocking pieces plumb using a Speed square.
Install the stub wall posts in line with the front corner posts tight against the blocking and flush with the bottom of the joists. Use screws to hold them in place and a carriage bolt through the post and joists to secure them.

Install the decking

To avoid the hassle of hidden fastener clips, we decided to use composite decking screws and plugs that match the finish of the composite decking. Here is how the decking was installed:

Cover the outer faces of the rim joists with composite decking pieces that will serve as skirt boards. Miter these boards to fit in the corners.
To prevent water from leaking between the deck boards and rotting the framing, cover the tops of all joists and any blocking with joist tape.
Around the outer frame of our deck, install the picture frame border of mitered deck boards that overhang the face of the skirt boards by half an inch. Use the four deck boards you purchased without the grooves for them. Prior to screwing them down, ensure you have calculated the exact dimensions you will need, including the spacing between each deck board. It is more critical that your frame is square than that the half-inch overhang surrounding the skirt board remains constant, so make adjustments as necessary.
Fill in the picture frame border by securing the top composite decking boards to the joists, starting at the center of the deck and working toward the edges. When you reach the posts, measure and cut around them to maintain the spacing between deck boards. Plan on hiding any deck boards that you will need to rip narrower near the walls to make them less obvious.

Frame the stub and back walls

Frame the two 96-in. wide x 30-in. tall stub walls to be installed on the sides of the structure, with studs set 16-in. on center. Secure these to the posts and deck joists using three-inch screws, ensuring the posts are plumb before locking them in place.
Frame the two 12-in. wide x 30-in. tall stub walls to be installed between the front posts and the front stub wall post near the gazebo’s entrance. Secure these to the posts using three-inch screws again double-checking that the posts are plumb before locking them into place.
Frame the 96-in. wide back wall to be installed between the gazebo back posts. The top of this wall is framed so the top plate sits at a 14-degree angle (the same pitch as the roof), so the wall height should be built to 80-in. to the highest side of the top plate. Construct this wall with studs 16-in. on center, ensuring there is a stud directly in the center of the wall. Secure the back wall to the posts and deck blocking using three-inch screws.

Frame the front arch

Frame the 96-in. wide x 24-7/8-in. tall top wall to be installed between the gazebo front posts. This wall has a matching 14-degree top plate as the back wall. It is also framed with studs 16-in. on center with one directly in the center. The tricky part about constructing this wall is cutting the arch.
I knew I wanted the arch to be 60 inches wide by 7-1/2-in. deep, so after conducting some calculations, I determined that a router circle cutting jig with a radius of 63-3/4-in. would be required to make the arch. Using scrap OSB and 2x4s, I constructed the jig, marking the arch with a 1/8-in. deep router pass. Having routed the arch a little bit, I used a circular saw and handsaw to finish cutting through the 2x4s to ensure the cuts remained square.
Install 2×4 blocking between the cut studs to ensure that they remain in place and are sturdy.
Install the top wall between the front 6×6 posts. Screw it into place so that the bottom plate on the arch wall is 80-1/2-in. from the surface of the deck.

Frame the roof

Like to how the deck joists straddle the posts on the deck the roof rafters will straddle the posts on the roof frame. Cut the rafters and fascia boards to length, and both ends of the rafters to 14-degrees (roof pitch is 3/12 or 14 degrees).
In a large flat area on the ground, nail together just the four rafters that straddle the posts and the front and back fascia boards.
With a couple extra sets of hands (and ladders), walk the four rafter/fascia section over to the structure and set it on top of the front arch wall and the back wall of the structure. Align it so the rafters land on each side of the 6×6 posts.
Adjust the overhang on the front and back of the roof so the fascia board hangs over each end by 16-in.
After checking that the four rafter/fascia section is square, secure it to the 6×6 posts with a 10-in. carriage bolt that sandwiches together the posts and the two rafters straddling them. Use three-inch screws to hold the pieces in place while drilling for the carriage bolts.
Affix the remaining rafters to the fascia boards, 18-in. on center, starting in the center, in order to accommodate the width of the metal roofing peaks. Toe nail them to the top plates of the front arch and back wall, as well.
Use a reciprocating saw with a long wood blade to cut the top of the 6×6 posts off flush to the top of the roof rafters.

Install the roof

Cover the top of the roof frame with T1-11 tongue and groove slatted panels facing down into the interior of the gazebo, beginning at the back and working forward. Use a narrow crown stapler to attach them to the rafters, so that the tongue on the panels edge will serve as a catch on the next panel. Stagger the seams using full and cut sheets until the entire roof frame is clad.
Install metal drip edge along the outer edge of the whole roof. Use tin snips to cut the drip edge to length and help form the bends at the corners.
Install self-adhesive foam closure strips along the inner edge of the drip edge at the front and back of the structure. These foam strips are contoured to follow the peaks and valleys of the roof. They help keep weather, debris, and insects from making their way under the ends of the roofing panels.
The metal roofing panels measure 36-in.wide by 12-ft. long. They interlock as you lay one ridged edge over another. Secure the metal roofing panels to the rafters with roofing screws equipped with rubber gaskets every 24-in. to seal the screw holes from water. Also, use butyl sealant tape at the seams connecting the metal roof panels. This will give an added layer of water protection and help prevent the metal panels from shifting as you secure them down.
Install eave flashing across the roof line at the front of the gazebo. Together with the foam closure strips, this is the second layer of defense designed to prevent the elements from getting under the metal roofing.
On the inside, add 2×6 blocking between the rafters on top of the framed back and arch walls to help enclose the interior.

Using pre-finished siding

As part of this project, we utilized a variety of pre-finished siding. The exterior and interior surfaces of the back wall, as well as the front of the arched wall, are covered with board and batten siding composed of 4×8 textured siding panels and 1×2 textured trim pieces. For the exterior of the side walls and two front stub walls, we used 8-in. lap siding, while all the interior walls (with the exception of the back wall) were clad with smooth 4×8 siding panels. Here are a few tips for installing prefinished siding:

All cut edges must be sealed before installation to prevent the siding from absorbing moisture. Seal the cuts with a clear or color-matched exterior-rated topcoat.
Make sure that there is a gap of 1/8 – 1/4-in. between all the prefinished pieces being installed – at the ends of lap siding, between panels and posts, etc. These gaps will be caulked or covered with 1×2 trim pieces.
Whenever a piece of siding meets the decking, leave a gap of 5/16 – 3/8-in. This will allow the siding to dry out after a rainstorm.

Build the triangular side walls

After the roof has been erected, frame the upper triangular side walls on the ground. These walls should extend all the way up to the T1-11 siding on the underside of the roof and finish 48-in. above the top of the framing on the lower wall. Before securing them between the 6×6 posts, clad the exterior side of each with eight-inch lap siding (7-21/25-in. actual size). Start flush with the bottom of the framing and work your way up. You should overlap each piece of siding by one inch and cut off the siding pieces flush with the triangular wall shape.

Lift the walls and secure them with three-inch screws through the framing on the side that is not covered with siding.

Install the siding

Cut and clad the interior of all walls, except the back wall, with smooth pre-finished siding panels. Using a siding nailer set, sink each nailhead just a hair beneath the surface of the pre-finished siding so they will become undetectable once filled and painted.
Cover both sides of the back wall with textured pre-finished siding panels run vertically so that the center seam lines up with the center stud of the back wall. The panels should be nailed every 8 – 12-in. along each stud.
Clad the exterior of the side and front walls with eight-inch lap siding. Install your first piece 5/16 – 3/8-in. off the decking, nailing it into each stud on the upper inch of the piece.
The top edge of your fourth piece of lap siding should just barely overhang the bottom edge of the top plate on your framing. Finish off these walls by running a piece of 1×2 trim strip across the top, made from the same material as the batten.

Clad the arch wall

Attach smooth siding panels to the interior of the gazebo, the height of the arch wall, with the seam centered on the center stud. For the time being, let the panels hang long over the arch.
Using nails and construction adhesive, secure two layers of 1/2-in. x 3-1/2-in. flexible PVC trim to the ends of the cut arch studs, one over the other, to form the bend. Once secured, trim the PVC trim ends flat to the bottom face of the framing bottom plate.
Cut out the arch of the interior siding flush to the bottom of the PVC trim. The easiest way to cut this arch was to use a jigsaw and oscillating tool to cut it close, and a router equipped with a flush trim bit to smooth it out.
Once the interior arch has been cut, clad the exterior of the arch with textured siding panels and follow the same process to cut the siding to the contour of the arch.
Install 2×4 blocks to cover the bottom plate of the framing and the ends of the PVC trim on the bottom sides of the arch. Wrap these 2×4 blocks in 1×2 batten trim strips, mitering the exposed corners.
Immediately below that, install a reveal block of 1/2-inch thick lumber the same size as the 2×4 block above it wrapped in batten trim.
Cap off the reveal block with a piece of 2×6 material the same length as the initial 2×4 block including the batten trim it is wrapped in.
Finally, seal and cover the visible edges of the cut siding on the underside of the arch with 1/2-in. x 3/4-in. pieces of flexible PVC trim cut from a full 3-1/2-in. piece.

Install the battens

Attach horizontal 1×2 battens at the top and bottom of both sides of the back wall, the top of the arch wall, and around the base on the gazebo’s interior. Use exterior-rated wood glue and two-inch brad nails to secure these.

Then, proceed to secure the vertical battens. Use a level to align them with the studs on both sides of the back wall and the outside and center studs on the arched wall. Last but not least, install two battens at the corners of the arch.

Install 2×6 caps

Install 2×6 caps on the tops and undersides of the clad walls using exterior-grade wood glue and countersunk three-inch screws. Align them so the edges are flush with the 6×6 posts. Overhang the front stub wall posts by 3/4-in.

Finishing touches

Use composite decking plugs to fill all screw holes. Companies that manufacture composite decking sell matching plugs to go with their screws. Be sure to order the appropriate plugs that match your decking finish. Line up the grain and tap them flush with a mallet.
Ensure that all siding seams, gaps, and nail/screw holes are caulked or filled.
Use color-matched paint to touch up the paint.
Build a gravel path and composite decking step in front of the gazebo if needed.
Lay mulch or landscape the area around the structure.

Add screens (optional)

Due to the high mosquito population in the upper Midwest during the summer months, we decided to add screens to the front and sides of the gazebo.

Hidden behind the arched wall, a roll-down screen was installed across the front of the gazebo, keeping pests out and creating shade during peak summer temperatures. We purchased a standard eight-foot wide roll-down screen from Amazon and followed the simple manufacturer instructions for installation. For the installation of side screens:

Install two 2×6 mullions between the caps on the top and bottom walls to create three equal 45-in. tall x 31-in. wide openings. Secure the mullions in place with exterior-rated wood glue and pocket screws.
Construct the six screens using aluminum frame screen kits purchased at the home center. Make sure your screens are 1/4 inch smaller in both directions than your openings.
As a stop, trim the inside of every screen opening with 3/4-in. x 3/4-in. trim pieces all around the opening. Cut these pieces from the same material as the wall caps and mullions. To ensure that the screen is centered in the opening from front to back, offset them 5/32-in. towards the exterior side of center.
Push the screens tightly against the 3/4-in. by 3/4-in. trim pieces on the interior of the gazebo. Install 1-1/2-in. trim head screws covered with white wire shelving caps against the interior side of the aluminum frame of the screen to hold them in place.

FAQ

Do gazebos increase property value?

Yes, gazebos can increase property value by enhancing outdoor living space and curb appeal, particularly in areas where outdoor entertainment is popular year-round.

What’s the difference between a pergola and a gazebo?

The roof. Pergolas typically have an open or slatted roof, which offers partial shade, whereas gazebos have solid roofs that offer complete weather and sun protection.

The post How To Build a Modern Gazebo to Enhance Your Outdoor Space appeared first on Family Handyman.

Is Your House Too Humid for Your Plants?

Casey Clark — Wed, 26 Mar 2025 18:59:49 +0000

With spring upon us, it’s the perfect time to tend to a garden or even add some new houseplants to your collection (or start one). They can help bring a space to life, improve air quality, and potentially aid in stress relief. Whether you’re looking to introduce another snake plant or jade plant, it’s important to make sure your house is conducive to making your plants thrive, and one important aspect to consider is temperature. That said, you may be wondering, “Is my house too humid for plants?” That’s a valid question for both novice and experienced gardeners, and we have some insight that will help answer this question.

Ahead, we speak with plant and botany experts about how humidity affects plants and what you can do to help ensure your plants stay alive and healthy right now and in the future.

How Does Humidity Affect Plants?

Humidity is key to help your plants thrive as it affects how they breathe, drink and take in nutrients. “Too much humidity can lead to root rot, mold, or unhappy plants, while not enough leaves them thirsty and stressed,” says Stephanie Elhayani, founder and chief floral officer at Seed Floral.

Nobody wants unhappy plants and taking care of the humidity levels in your home is one way to help them thrive.

“When there is high humidity, plants take in less water in the roots as there is less water lost in the pores,” says Melvin Cubian, gardening expert and botanist at PlantIn app. “In contrast, low humidity pulls more water from the leaves and when the roots cannot replenish the loss of water, it results in browning.”

How Much Humidity Is Too Much Humidity for Plants?

The level of humidity that is ideal for plants will vary based on the type of plant. “Most plants like 40 to 60 percent humidity,” says Elhayani. “Above 70 to 80 percent, you risk mold and fungal issues, except for tropical beauties like ferns and orchids—they love it steamy.”

For example, plants like marble pothos, majesty palm, dracaena lemon line and calathea plants all thrive the best in environments with humidity levels between 40 to 60 percent.

According to Cubian, to maintain the balance between humidity and a healthy water intake in the roots, proper ventilation is recommended. “This can be achieved by observing proper plant spacing and pruning the dead leaves and redundant branches,” he tells Family Handyman.

How Can I Tell If My House Is Too Humid for Plants?

There are a few ways to tell if your house is too humid for plants that you’ll want to keep an eye out for.

First off, the leaves on your plant can tell you a lot about its overall health and well being. “If they are showing signs of fungal disease like a leaf spot or mold, then that likely means there is too much moisture,” says Teri Valenzuela, Natural Science Manager at Sunday.

Aside from the look of the plant, you’ll probably be able to feel it and see it in your home. “If an unusual odor is accompanied by a sticky or damp air feeling, then it’s likely that your house is too humid for plants,” says Cubian.

Another way to tell if your house is too humid for plants is if you notice moldy soil and pots or mushy roots, according to Elhayani.

How To Make My House Less Humid for Plants

Luckily, there are ways to make your house less humid for plants if you think humidity is an issue.

First, and most importantly, you want to make sure your home has proper and adequate ventilation. “Cracking a window or running a regular or exhaust fan in humid rooms can help get airflow going,” says Valenzuela. “Additionally, investing in an energy-efficient dehumidifier can be helpful to pull extra moisture from the air, especially in humid climates.”

Alongside better ventilation, you’ll want to make sure your plants are placed a decent amount apart. It’s important to give them breathing room, especially around the leaves and stems, according to Cubian.

If you’re still having trouble getting the humidity levels just right, then you may also want to consider investing in a hygrometer which measures moisture content, or humidity, in a space. This is an easier way to get a better read on humidity levels so you can try to adjust your environment and plants accordingly.

About the Experts

Stephanie Elhayani, founder and chief floral officer at Seed Floral in West Hollywood, CA.; email interview, March 23, 2025
Teri Valenzuela, Natural Science Manager at Sunday; email interview, March 21, 2025
Melvin Cubian, gardening expert and botanist at PlantIn app; email interview, March 20, 2025

Sources

“DripWorks: 11 Best High Humidity Plants for Your Homes” (2024)

The post Is Your House Too Humid for Your Plants? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Transform Your Patio with These Easy DIY Furniture Ideas

Rebecca Wright Brown — Tue, 25 Mar 2025 20:10:57 +0000

Cedar Potting Bench

This super-simple potting bench will make your gardening projects much more enjoyable and help you stay organized, too! You can build this DIY patio furniture project in just a few hours, even if you’re a beginner. Once it’s finished, you’ll have everything you need to care for your patio plants in one place.

Timber Bench

Need outdoor seating in a hurry? This simple timber bench, based on author and ecologist Aldo Leopold’s classic design, can be constructed in a couple of hours, even if you are a novice woodworker. Unlike other ornate options, this bench will look right at home in your yard, regardless of your landscaping.

Cedar and PVC Patio Table

For large outdoor gatherings, a reliable patio table is a necessity. And while you can certainly purchase one from a store, making one yourself allows you to customize the piece however you need. If you have the budget, we recommend purchasing a naturally rot-resistant wood for the legs. We opted for cedar when we did this DIY patio furniture project.

Tile-Top Table

Combining woodworking, metalwork and tiling techniques, this Italianate tile-top table makes a lovely addition to any deck or patio. The top is made from plywood, with mosaic tiles added for a Mediterranean feel. The legs are hand-bent metal. This is a more involved DIY patio furniture project; you’ll need to make a gig to ensure accurate shaping. It will also take you several days, but it will be well worth the investment once you see how beautiful it turns out.

Polished Concrete Table Top

Although it certainly doesn’t seem like it would be a quick project, this gorgeous concrete tabletop is an excellent introduction to working with finished concrete, and it builds faster than you’d think. The longest part of forming a concrete top is building the form. But once you’ve mastered that skill, the rest moves along easily.

How to Make an Adirondack Chair and Loveseat

This Adirondack chair and matching loveseat are designed for outdoor comfort. They’re pieces of DIY patio furniture that have been designed for easy assembly so that a novice can build them. And you can build them from inexpensive, durable wood that, once stained, looks beautiful.

Planter Side Table

If you think you’ve got a planter you no longer have any use for, think again. Before tossing it, consider upcycling it into a side table to accompany your other patio furniture. If you want to get fancy with this, you can use stencils when adding color. Or you can simply let it be a pop of color on its own, no patterns needed.

Kids’ Table

Don’t forget the little ones in your life! They need spaces to sit as well, especially if you entertain on your patio quite often. This DIY kids’ table is fairly easy to make and gives the children their own spot to eat or play during your barbecues and summer parties.

Composite Benches

Seating is one of the most important features of a patio. Why have an outdoor space if you can’t sit down and enjoy it? We built these benches with composite decking so that they’re low-maintenance. You just need to build them and then enjoy them all season long.

Epoxy River Bench

If you want a stand-out bench for your patio, this one with an epoxy river is an excellent choice. It’s trendy and beautiful, and it’s a piece of patio furniture that you can DIY. There’s no need to shell out lots of money as long as you’re willing to learn how to work with epoxy resin.

The post Transform Your Patio with These Easy DIY Furniture Ideas appeared first on Family Handyman.

Bring New Grass Seed To Life With These Watering TIps

Jenna Clark — Tue, 25 Mar 2025 15:43:58 +0000

You might not think about growing grass seed as gardening, but all the same principles apply. While soil, sunlight, and water are the essentials for gardening magic to happen, knowing how much of each element is needed is crucial – especially when it comes to watering. If you’ve been curious about how much to water new grass seed, you’ve landed at the right place.

We’ve asked gardening pros some questions about watering new grass seeds so you can spend less time researching and more time nurturing some beautiful grass. Ahead, horticulture extension specialists answer the question and provide insights on how much you should be watering new grass seed and how often; plus, they provide some best practices when it comes to watering new grass seed.

How Much To Water New Grass Seed

How much you should water your new grass seed varies depending on the grass’s growth stage. It is essential that the seedbed does not dry out during the germination period, which can be avoided by watering its top inch, explains Aaron Steil, a consumer horticulture extension specialist at Iowa State University.

As your new grass seed grows, you must provide more water during each irrigation session. You will know when it’s time for another irrigation session based on the moisture level, how much time has passed, the length of the grass, and how often it has been mowed. To make things easier, you can note the last time you watered your grass seed (or grass) and how long it has been since you sowed your grass seed on a calendar or note-taking application and go from there (we cover more about the timeline in the next section).

“The main concept is water deeply and not frequently— you want the roots to grow deeper into the soil and not remain at the surface as the roots go where the water goes,” explains Linda Langelo, a horticulture area extension specialist at Colorado State University. If you do not provide an adequate amount of water to your new grass seed, you risk the seedlings dying.

How much to water new grass seed can also depend on the type of watering tool used. If you’re watering a newly seeded area, Steil recommends using an overhead sprinkler, whereas spot sprinklers can be used for smaller seeding jobs and impact sprinklers for larger ones. With this in mind, Langelo adds that setting an automatic sprinkler for five minutes should be enough time to properly water your new grass seed during the beginning stages.

How Often To Water New Grass Seed?

According to Langelo, new grass seed should generally be watered two or three times daily during the beginning stages.

As your new grass seed germinates (typically within two to three weeks), the frequency with which you need to water the new grass seed will decrease from every day to every two or three days to twice a week to ultimately once per week, says Steil. He adds that you ideally should start by watering the seedbed multiple times per day for the first couple weeks until the grass has reached about two inches as this marks the time when you can start transitioning to a couple of times per week, and then ultimately once per week after your new grass has been mowed a couple of times.

Nonetheless, the weather influences the frequency, as warmer weather dries out the grass seed more quickly. “The warmer the weather, the quicker the grass seed will dry out and the more often you may need to water before the seed sends roots into the soil,” explains Langelo. “So, if the temperature is in the 80s, you might need to water four times a day as opposed to two or three.”

When To Stop Watering New Grass Seed

After initially planting your new grass seed, you’ll know when it is time to stop watering it if you notice any water runoff. Although it will always require moisture, you can stop watering your new grass seed as much as time progresses and your grass grows.

FAQ

Will fertilizer negatively or positively affect new grass seed?

Fertilizer can positively affect new grass seed when applied (if needed) after germination. If you find that your grass seed needs fertilizer, Langelo recommends waiting between six and eight weeks. “Remember, all the nutrients start out in the embryo of the grass seed. More fertilizer does not mean better growth; rather, proper sun exposure and watering benefit the seed initially,” Langelo says. That said, fertilizer may not always be needed and can be determined by completing a soil test.

When should you first mow new grass seed?

Langelo and Steil agree that you should first mow new grass seed once it is three inches. You don’t want it to get too long, as that can potentially cause issues while mowing. Langelo adds that it is generally a best practice to engage in your first mowing after four weeks and trim the grass down to about two inches. “Use a walk-behind push mower for the first mow, if possible,” advises Amanda Folck, an assistant extension educator of turfgrass management at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln.”Be steady on the first mow to prevent any immediate turns on the new grass area.”

About the Experts

Amanda Folck has served as the assistant extension educator of turfgrass management at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln since 2023. She is also a university faculty member within the Department of Agronomy and Horticulture.
Aaron Steil is a consumer horticulture extension specialist at Iowa State University with more than 15 years of industry experience. Before his current role he was an assistant teaching professor and assistant director of the on-campus Reiman Gardens.
Linda Langelo is a horticulture area extension specialist at Colorado State University. Before her role at the university, she served as the grounds supervisor at Turning Stone Casino and Resort and was in charge of ensuring that reseeding processes were properly carried out (which included overlooking the seed coverage within 30 days of watering). With more than 30 years of industry experience, she is a long-time member of Garden Communicators International and the American Public Garden Association.

Sources

Iastate.edu: “Watering Home Lawns“

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Is Bleach as a Weed Killer a Good or Bad Idea? Experts Weigh In

Chris Deziel — Mon, 24 Mar 2025 21:25:52 +0000

Every gardener faces the same dilemma: How to remove weeds while expending the least amount of effort and avoiding damage to desirable plants. One possible solution is to kill weeds with bleach, and at first glance, that’s an approach with promise. Bleach is a powerful disinfectant that can kill mold and disinfect pool water, so it should be able to make short work of weeds by poisoning their roots, right?

The related question, however, is whether bleach is safe for the rest of the garden. Not according to turfgrass management expert Ryan Walts, who says: “Using bleach is strongly discouraged. It will likely damage the surrounding soil, harming neighboring plants and making it unsuitable for most plants to grow back in that area for a long time.” Lawn expert Chrissie Handley agrees, and so does gardening enthusiast Harry Lloyd.

In this post, we’ll explain why bleach should not be used to kill weeds on your lawn or in your garden and explore some alternative weed control methods.

Does Bleach Kill Weeds?

“Bleach’s harsh chemical nature makes it quite effective at killing weeds quickly,” says Handley. “It damages their cells and shuts off moisture absorption, which kills the plant.” Common household bleach is a solution of sodium hypochlorite (NaClO), which breaks down in the soil to release salt (sodium chloride or NaCl), water (H₂O) and chlorinated organic compounds. By attaching to organic compounds, chlorine essentially neutralizes them, which is great for pool sanitation but not so good for soil health.

Moreover, salt in the soil affects the ability of roots to absorb moisture. Think about what would happen if you drank a glass of seawater. Rather than quenching your thirst, it would make you more thirsty. That’s pretty much what happens to plants. Unable to absorb moisture from the soil, the roots shrivel, and the plants wither and die.

Does Bleach Kill Weeds Permanently?

This depends on a number of factors:

Concentration of the bleach solution: In an effort to prevent damage to desirable plants, some gardeners dilute bleach in a spray bottle. But if the concentration is too low, weeds may suffer only temporary damage and grow back.
Depth of the roots: Some weeds, such as dandelions and thistles, have very deep roots that may not be affected unless you soak the soil with the bleach solution. A surface application won’t cut it for such species.
Annuals vs. perennials: Annual weeds tend to have shallow roots, which makes them likely to be permanently eliminated by bleach application. Perennials, on the other hand, have hardier roots that grow deeper. They may wither after application but can grow back later in the year or next year.

Handley has this advice for the effective use of bleach for weed control: “You should apply it directly to the weed and re-apply often for the best results, as it makes sure the plant is fully dead and has no possibility of growing back.”

Should I Use Bleach to Kill Weeds on My Lawn?

While bleach does kill weeds, the more important question is whether you should, and the experts I interviewed all agree that the answer is no.

“I understand the temptation, but using bleach on weeds is a very bad idea,” says Lloyd. “Bleach does kill weeds, but it also harms everything else it touches, and although you think you’re directing it just at the root of the weed — it’ll spread to your soil.”

Bleach can kill earthworms, insects and microorganisms vital for soil health. It can also spread to the roots of nearby desirable plants, either causing disease or killing them outright.

“Bleach can leave residue behind in the soil and make the soil pH more alkaline, which can affect the growth of plants in the surrounding area,” says Handley. To amplify this concern, Walts adds that it can make the soil unsuitable for most plants to grow back in that area for a long time.

DIY weed control methods

“Baking soda is a much better DIY alternative,” says Walts. He recommends either applying it directly from the box or mixing it with water. Lloyd adds that you should also consider things like vinegar-based weed sprays, boiling water, or even just pulling them out by hand.

If you’re going to use bleach anyway, here’s Handley’s advice: “Try to use it in a targeted and controlled manner, only applying small amounts to the weed directly. Some people use a spray bottle and dilute the solution to try and combat the strength and just re-apply more often.”

Can I Use Bleach To Kill Weeds in My Driveway?

If weeds grow through the cracks in your driveway, you don’t have to worry about harming nearby plants or the soil under the driveway. That makes bleach an effective control method because not only will it kill the weeds, it will render the soil inhospitable for new ones. If you use this method, make a strong bleach solution — the stronger, the better — and be sure to soak the weeds thoroughly to be sure the bleach gets to the roots.

About the Experts

Ryan Walts is a training manager and business coach at Lawn Squad, a franchise lawn care business based in Columbia, MD.
Harry Lloyd is a passionate gardener and waste management expert at HIPPO, a rubbish removal service based in the UK.
Chrissie Handley is a lawn care specialist and gardening expert providing tailored advice on laying turf, garden maintenance and general gardening tips for Online Turf — a turf, soil and compost company based in Lancashire, UK.

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10 Mushrooms Growing In Your Grass and What It Means

Laurie M Nichols — Mon, 24 Mar 2025 15:59:17 +0000

Button Mushroom (Agaricus bisporus)

Button Mushrooms, one of the most cultivated mushrooms globally, are prized for their taste and versatility. You’ll typically find them in stores with a smooth, grayish-white cap and short, sturdy stem. If left to mature in your lawn, the cap expands and develops small scales.

“Agaricus loves moisture, so it may pop up in your lawn after a big rain,” Bashian-Victoroff says. “These decomposer fungi are a critical part of a healthy soil environment, likely a sign that your soil is healthy and full of life!”

Parasol Mushroom (Macrolepiota procera)

Parasol Mushrooms have a flat, scaly and broad cap that can grow three to 10 inches wide. If left to mature, Parasol Mushrooms can grow three to 12 inches tall with a brown, rough-textured stem.

These mushrooms are edible but can easily be mistaken for poisonous specimens. You may find these growing under trees in shady, moist areas of your lawn, and they are the fruiting bodies of a fungus in the soil.

Ringless Honey Mushrooms (Armillaria tabascens)

Golden-brown Ringless Honey Mushrooms often grow at the base of trees infected with Armillaria fungus, and often form clusters of one to two feet. “Each individual mushroom within the cluster is typically rather small, with caps ranging from about two to five centimeters across and stems about three to five centimeters tall,” Bashian-Victoroff says. They may also sprout on decaying tree roots in your lawn.

Although they only live for about a week, to remove, “cut or pry the stems up, place the mushrooms into a non-porous bag and then into the trash,” Bashian-Victoroff adds.

Shaggy Ink Cap (Coprinus comatus)

When immature, Shaggy Ink Caps (or Lawyers’ Wigs) have tall, grayish-white caps that resemble a bullet, with upturned scales and a smooth stem. Often found in lawns, these mushrooms only live about 24 hours. Once past maturity, Shaggy Ink Caps transform into a black ink-like substance full of spores.

“While these fungi are a good sign of healthy soil, they may leave behind an inky liquid in your grass. If you would like to avoid this (which some might find unsightly), be sure to remove the mushrooms while they are still immature before they start to deliquesce,” Bashian-Victoroff says.

Lawnmower’s Mushroom (Panaeolus foenisecci)

Also known as the Haymakers Mushroom, you’ve most likely seen this small, brown mushroom in your lawn at some point. Prolific in yards across North America, Lawnmower’s Mushrooms often grow in clumps in grass. Depending on its stage of maturity, the cap will be conical or bell-shaped when young and flat when mature, with a short, smooth stem. If ingested, these can cause gastrointestinal upset.

Fairy Bonnet (Coprinellus dissemanetus)

Fairy Bonnets, typically found in forests growing on rotting logs, can also appear in grass— but only if there’s decaying wood present. If your lawn has rotting tree roots or stumps, these mushrooms are likely to show up. Easily identified by their delicate gray caps, Fairy Bonnets often grow in tight, prolific clusters. They’re short-lived and delicate but will likely continue to proliferate unless areas of rotting wood are removed from the lawn. They are not poisonous.

White Dunce Cap (Conocybe lactea)

This small, white mushroom often pops up in lawns after a rainfall. They are very delicate and shrivel up and disappear by afternoon during hot, sunny weather. “White Dunce Caps aren’t harmful to grass, but they can indicate that your lawn is damp or has a high level of decaying organic material,” Corbett says. “If you’re concerned, improve drainage and reduce excess organic matter to help manage their growth.” This mushroom is not edible and can be harmful to pets if ingested.

Stinkhorn (Phallus impudicus)

True to their name, Stinkhorn Mushrooms emit a pungent odor that is unmistakable once you’re familiar with it. “You’ll usually smell a stinkhorn before you see it,” Corbett says. “They have a nasty, foul smell that’s hard to miss.” They also have a distinct appearance, with a tall, phallic-shaped fruiting that often grows in gardens, mulch beds and leaf piles. Stinkhorns do not last for long, usually dying off in a day or two. They are not edible, and can be poisonous to dogs.

Yellow Fieldcaps (Bolbitius titubans)

Widespread throughout North America, Yellow Fieldcaps are named for their bright yellow caps during their initial growth phase. Very short-lived, these mushrooms only last a day or two, quickly morphing from yellow, bulbous caps to flat, gray caps. Yellow Fieldcaps thrive in well-fertilized lawns or compost piles, so their presence in grass suggests healthy soil with lots of nutrients and organic material. They are not considered poisonous.

Fairy Ring Mushroom (Marasmius oreades)

While visible above ground, Fairy Ring Mushrooms are actually an offshoot of a fungus living underground. Commonly found growing in a circle on lawns with a beige, bell-shaped cap and smooth stem, Fairy Ring Mushrooms are edible and generally harmless to lawns. Consider adding a balanced lawn fertilizer to quickly remove their presence from your grass if you choose.

About the Experts

Claudia Bashian-Victoroff is a fungal ecologist and research specialist at Holden Arboretum in Kirtland, Ohio. Bashian-Victoroff holds a Master of Science degree in Forest Pathology and Mycology from SUNY College of Environmental Science and Forestry.
Joyce Corbett owns Classic Courtyards in West Springfield, Massachusetts. She has over forty years of landscaping design and installation experience.

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Why Does This Hollywood Celebrity Hate Leaf Blowers?

noelle devoe — Tue, 18 Mar 2025 21:17:27 +0000

In a competition to determine the most mundane yard work a homeowner must do to upkeep their lawn, collecting leaves in the fall is up there fighting for the top spot. However, the task isn’t so mundane if you ask Indiana Jones and Thor: Ragnarok star Cate Blanchett. In fact, it’s the source of a decades-long grievance. See, Blanchett has some beef with one particular power tool homeowners use to take care of their falling leaves: leaf blowers. It’s not often we turn to Hollywood A-listers for their takes on lawn care, but this one is worth a listen.

Appearing in a March episode of the Subway Takes podcast with Kareem Rahma to promote her latest movie, Black Bag, the Oscar-winning actress filled listeners in on her hottest take, passionately explaining, “Leaf blowers need to be eradicated from the face of the Earth.” She continued: “The stupidity! Here’s the thing: It’s a metaphor for what’s wrong with us as a species. We blow shit from one side of our lawn to the other side, and then the wind is just gonna blow it back.”

One might argue that leaf blowers’ biggest benefit is the time it saves. It takes far longer (and more effort) to manually rake leaves than to blow them in the desired direction. However, that point probably would not move Blanchett, who claimed 30 minutes of leaf blower usage creates more pollution than driving a pickup truck from Texas to Alaska, which led to them getting banned in Washington, D.C. And clearly Blanchett does her research— that stat checks out according to a 2011 Edmunds study on leaf blower emissions.

Blanchett has been singing the same tune for well over a decade. Her well-documented hatred of leaf blowers dates back to 2007, when she first told W Magazine that leaf blowers “sum up everything that is wrong with the human race.” So, while you may disagree with her take on leaf blowers, you have to give her props for her consistency and passion. Watch her rage against leaf blowers in her “Subway Takes” segment below.

@subwaytakes Episode 310: Leaf blowers need to be eradicated from the face of the earth!! Feat Cate Blanchett 🚋🚋🚋🚋🚋 Hosted by @KAREEM RAHMA Created by Kareem Rahma and Andrew Kuo Shot by @Anthony DiMieri and Thomas Kasem Edited by Tyler Christie Associate producer @Ramy #podcast #subway #hottakes #subwaytakes #interview #nyc #opinions #cateblanchett #movies #films #leafblowers ♬ original sound – SubwayTakes

Sources

Edmunds: Leaf Blower’s Emissions Dirtier than High-Performance Pick-Up Truck’s, Says Edmunds’ InsideLine.com (2011)

W Magazine: “Queen Cate” (2007)

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Get Off The Grass With These Excellent Backyard Alternatives

Rebecca Wright Brown — Fri, 14 Mar 2025 22:05:43 +0000

Mulch Backyard

If you’re looking for lawn alternatives, why not a mulch backyard instead of a grass one? Mulch comes in a variety of materials, which allows for creative landscape designs using different textures and colors. It provides additional benefits as one of the alternatives to grass lawns such as moisture retention, weed control, protection against erosion, heat retention and protection of root systems.

If you’re landscaping your yard with features such as flower or rock gardens, mulch is ideal for creating pathways throughout the yard. There are several types of much,including wood chips, shredded bark, sawdust, pine needles and straw mulch. However, remember to replace the mulch on time.

Synthetic Grass Backyard

Synthetic grass, also known as artificial grass or turf, is viable as an alternative to grass lawns. The material has the same look and texture as natural grass. There are three main types worth considering: nylon, polyethylene and polypropylene. The amount of traffic the lawn receives will help determine the type of material best suited for your home. Polyethylene is soft, vibrant in color and resilient. Nylon is strong, allowing it to maintain its shape, and can withstand high temperatures. Polypropylene, while less costly, does not have the durability or resilience of the other two.

Gravel Backyard

If you’re intrigued by the idea of a mulch backyard instead of grass, but want an option that is less likely to attract bugs, consider landscaping gravel. There is a wide range of stone types to choose from such as crushed granite, stone pebbles, river rocks, decomposed granite, pea gravel.

Granite offers many advantages as a grass alternative including a wide variety of color and texture options, broad availability, a wide price range-perfect for any budget and durability. Stone-based materials do not attract bugs, don’t decompose due to the elements, and are long-lasting. One thing to consider however, is that over time, gravel will start to sink into the soil.

Clover Backyard

We’re not talking about the clover that’s taking over your lawn, we’re talking about a larger flowering variety that is far more at home in your garden. While you may have to protect it from hungry creatures, bees will love it. Just remember to plant it more like grass and treat it like a ground cover as an alternative to a lawn.

Lily Turf

Lily Turf grows well in full sunlight or deep shade in moderate regions and partial shade in regions with extreme heat and cold winters. It thrives in USDA Zones 6-10. The slow-spreading ground cover blooms in late summer with purple or white flowers. Lily Turf prefers slightly acidic, well-drained soil. Once the root system is established, the plant is drought tolerant. During the late winter or early spring months, Lily Turf can be sheared or mowed, which strengthens the plant for new growth and is a nice alternative to a traditional lawn.

Moss

Moss as a ground cover is the perfect solution for shady lawns as well as lawns with poor soil. The two key ingredients for growing moss are moisture, a two-minute watering daily, and daylight, but not direct sun. For yards that are heavily shaded, moss is both practical—needs no mowing—and provides aesthetic value. Moss does not produce flowers, seeds or establish true roots. It is a cover-like mat of stems and leaves, which absorbs nutrients and water. Moss grows very well with other perennials that thrive in the shade such as hostas, trilliums and ferns.

Flower and Shrub Beds

If you like the idea of a mulch backyard instead of grass, but want to keep some plant life around as well, you can split the difference with flower and shrub beds. This combination adds a touch of interest and beauty to the landscape while reducing soil erosion and the amount of time needed for maintaining a grassy lawn.

Generally, the types of plants used range in various heights of around 1 ft., or less. Taller flowers and shrubs can be used, as well, as a backdrop to the shorter plants. Flower beds, built-in planters and alongside sidewalks are a few suggestions when laying out a landscaping plan. For pathways throughout the yard, use one of the suggestions in this slideshow such as mulch, rocks or gravel to cover the area.

Garden Meadow

Visions of flowers blooming and gently bending in the breeze evoke an atmosphere of peace and serenity. This scene can be yours with a colorful garden meadow. There are two types: perennial and annual. Perennial meadows blossom from year to year and annual meadows produce once per year. Both are excellent alternatives to grass and put on a display of color for many months. Planting is recommended in mid-spring or early autumn in sunny areas. While annual meadows need a rich soil base, perennial meadows do well in poor soil. Wildflowers are available as a mixture of assorted seeds or as individual plants.

Outdoor Garden Features

Create an oasis in the front or backyard and eliminate the need for grass by designing a landscape that uses mostly hardscape features, such as a deck, patio, koi pond, water features, an outdoor kitchen or a fire pit.

For pathways, use one of the mentioned low-maintenance ground covers such as moss, gravel, synthetic grass or mulch. You can add in a touch of greenery by planting bordering flower beds alongside the pathways, designating an area for a vegetable or flower garden, and highlighting areas around decks, ponds or patios with drought-resistant and ornamental grasses.

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Why Grass Won’t Grow Under Your Trees—and How to Fix It

Laurie M Nichols — Tue, 11 Mar 2025 21:07:21 +0000

Growing grass can be a time-consuming, expensive process that is made particularly more difficult under trees. I’m always amazed when I see thick, green grass growing right up to a tree in a golf course or public park. It makes me wonder, “Why can’t I grow grass under my trees?”

The answer isn’t so simple, as there are many reasons it’s such a challenge. If you’re wondering why grass won’t grow under your trees, read on for our troubleshooting guide and practical solutions from two lawn care experts Joe Churchill from Reinders and Ryan Mange from CMS Landscaping.

Why Won’t Grass Grow Around My Trees?

The ground beneath a tree is not an ideal environment for grass to grow. It’s shady, the soil is often compacted or nutrient-deficient and root systems have to compete with trees for resources. “Grass growing under tree canopies is not a practice that is natural for either the grass or the tree,” Mange says. Here are some reasons why:

Not enough sunlight

Grass requires at least four hours of sunlight per day to stay alive, but most do best with six to eight. Tree branches and leaves can create dense shade beneath them, making it difficult for grass to grow.

Solutions: Choose a shade-tolerant grass variety like a fine fescue blend. Prune tree branches to allow more sunlight to reach the grass. “Raise the canopy of the tree by selectively removing lower branches at the bottom of your trees,” Churchill says. “If it’s a heavy leaf canopy, you may have to throw in the towel and consider ground covers that do well in heavy shade.”

Compacted soil

The soil around trees often gets compacted by foot traffic and lawn care equipment, making it difficult for grass to take hold and grow. “Trying to force grass growth in areas with poor soils is always a recipe for disappointment,” Mange says.

Solutions: Rent a plug aerator to aerate the soil under trees. Also, try to reduce foot traffic and use different mowing patterns when cutting your lawn.

Acidic soil

The soil under pine trees often becomes acidic from pine needles dropping and decaying into it. Grass seed prefers a neutral pH and won’t grow in high-acid soil.

Solutions: Keep pine needles cleaned up below the tree and add lime to the soil, reducing the pH.

Dry soil

Deeper, more prolific tree roots quickly absorb rainfall and water from irrigation systems. This can leave the soil under trees too dry to support grass.

Solutions: “Manage moisture under trees by adding additional water over and above what is supplied by irrigation,” Churchill says. Deep and infrequent watering is the most effective.

Competing for nutrients

When planted so near a tree, grass can lose the competition for soil nutrients. “Trees are very good at outcompeting grass for water, nutrients and sunlight,” Mange says. “[They] have evolved to be very adept at discouraging neighboring plants.”

Solutions: Consider giving the tree additional fertilizer to free up soil nutrients for the grass. Top-dress the lawn with a light layer of organic compost, or try a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer.

FAQ

What should I put around my trees to make grass grow?

To help grass grow, you can put compost, lime and shade-tolerant grass around your trees. Lime neutralizes acidic soil to a level conducive to grass. Shade-tolerant grass seed has the best chance of growing into a healthy lawn. Amend the soil with compost to add the nutrients grass needs to grow.

Should I consider artificial grass around my trees?

Artificial grass can be an option around a tree, as long as it is designed to allow rainwater to reach the tree’s roots. Avoid installing artificial grass at the base of young trees to avoid suffocating developing root systems. Add a ring of mulch around the tree base first. Artificial grass under trees does require maintenance, as leaves and debris will stain if left to decay for too long.

About the Experts

Joe Churchill is a Senior Turf Specialist with Wisconsin-based Reinders, a major distributor of lawn care products in the Midwest. He has over 25 years of experience in the turfgrass industry, is certified in Turfgrass Management with a B.A. in Geography and Horticulture from the University of Minnesota.
Ryan Mange is a Lawn/Plant Health Manager at CMS Landscaping, a full-service lawn care and irrigation company in Holyoke, Massachusetts. He is also an International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) Certified Arborist.

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