Experts emphasize that only the three Ps should be flushed down toilets: pee, poop, and (toilet) paper. But everyone has their own thoughts about what “can” get disposed of by flushing. Unfortunately, they might not find out that their beliefs are wrong until it’s too late. A Guardian Service survey updated in 2025 reports that “clogged toilets” is the most common plumbing issue searched over the last two years.

Being clear about what can and cannot get flushed down the toilet is key to preventing plumbing emergencies. Ahead, the truth about what items Americans are frequently flushing down toilets, how much toilet-related emergency plumbing repairs cost, and how to dispose of items that should never, ever go down the toilet.

What Items Are Most Frequently Flushed Down Toilets

The items that Americans tend to flush down toilets are pretty similar across the board. Here are the most common items people are flushing.

Wipes (43%)

Wipes of all kinds are one of the most common items flushed down toilets, but it’s never a good idea. People often flush baby wipes and disinfectant wipes, but even those who know not to put these items in the toilet think it’s okay to flush so-called “flushable wipes.” After all, it says they’re flushable in the name. According to the Guardian Service survey, 24 percent of Americans didn’t know whether flushable wipes were safe to flush, with another 14 percent thinking they were flushable.

To be clear: It’s definitely not a good idea to flush even “flushable” wipes. Yet they account for 43 percent of what Americans flush down the toilet that they shouldn’t. They do not actually meet the criteria for flushability, so they can clog pipes, especially where pipes form an angle. This causes backups and expensive, inconvenient plumbing emergencies. Always put used wipes of any kind in trash cans rather than flushing them.

Feminine hygiene products (16%)

Tempting as it is to flush feminine hygiene products down the toilet, it’s never advisable, yet they make up 16 percent of the most commonly flushed items. Tampons and pads are specifically designed to absorb liquid and when they do, they swell. Obviously, this can cause big problems in pipes and lead to backups. Instead, make sure to have a trash can with a lid in all your bathrooms so anyone who needs to can dispose of their feminine hygiene products properly.

Medications (8%)

Many people worry about the environmental impact of flushing medication down the toilet. However, as FDA environmental assessment expert Raanan Bloom, Ph.D. says in “Where and How to Dispose of Unused Medicines,” “the main way drug residues enter water systems is by people taking medicines and then naturally passing them through their bodies.” Because of the substantial risk they pose to humans and animals, some medications should be flushed down the toilet. Still, this only applies to medications on the FDA flush list. Otherwise, find a drug take-back location or mix unused medications with dirt, kitty litter, or coffee grounds before sealing in a plastic resealable bag and tossing.

Cotton Products (7%)

Cotton products, such as cotton swabs/balls (7%), makeup pads, and cotton balls, are also often flushed down the toilet. Although they seem like they’d break down easily, they don’t and can cause plumbing issues. Again, make sure to toss these in the trash instead of flushing them down the toilet.

Other items that are commonly flushed (that shouldn’t be)

• Facial tissues (34%)
• Paper towels (24%)
• Leftover food (10%)
• Condoms (4%)
• Small toys (4%)
• Pet fish (4%)

Plumbing Repair Costs

Plumbing repairs aren’t cheap, and the sticker shock can be overwhelming. According to the survey conducted by Guardian Service, 57 percent of homeowners are “shocked by the cost of a plumbing repair at some point.” The kicker and the good news, depending on your perspective, is that many of these plumbing costs are related to items that shouldn’t be flushed — meaning the problem is preventable.

A whopping two in five homeowners have had to pay for emergency plumbing repairs due to improper flushing. The average cost of these repairs is $671 out of pocket. However, one in twelve homeowners have had to pay over $2000 for emergency sewer repairs. While many homeowners are able to pay for plumbing repairs with their savings, others pay with a credit card or a personal loan. An important takeaway is that these unexpected, expensive plumbing repairs caused many homeowners to regret not having homeowners or plumbing insurance.

The cost of plumbing repairs isn’t only financial. Dealing with plumbing issues and their aftermath also costs homeowners time. In addition to the inconvenience and frustration caused by problematic toilets, there’s the time involved in finding a plumber, making sure you’re home when they’re able to come, and then being around while the problem is getting fixed. Most repairs take a few hours, but sometimes they can take an entire day or more.

FAQ

How much are major plumbing repairs on average?

According to the Guardian Service survey, Americans spend $671 on average for emergency sewer repairs. Angi puts the average cost for toilet repairs between $200 and $1200. One thing is for sure: Plumbing repairs are going to cost you, but emergencies caused by items that shouldn’t be flushed down the toilet don’t have to happen in the first place. Just stick to flushing only the three Ps.

Why are flushable wipes called flushable if they’re not actually flushable?

Flushable wipes are allowed to be called flushable because there is no legally binding definition of what’s considered flushable. Hence, even wipes that don’t disintegrate well enough that they won’t cause problems are designated “flushable” for marketing purposes. Due to the lack of regulation and confusion surrounding which wipes will actually disintegrate, it’s best not to flush any wipes at all down the toilet.

Sources

• “Orange Water and Sewer Authority: Down the Drain: Yes, to the 3 Ps“
• “Guardian Service: America’s Biggest Plumbing Problems: What Homeowners Are Flushing, Fixing, and Googling” (2025)
• “Power Plumbing Services: 5 “Flushable” Things That You Should Never Actually Flush” (2021)
• “Santa Monica Water District: What to flush?“
• “International Water Services Flushability Group: Criteria for Recognition as a Flushable Product“
• “US Food & Drug Administration: Where and How to Dispose of Unused Medicines“
• “US Food & Drug Administration: Drug Disposal: FDA’s Flush List for Certain Medicines“
• “Angi: How Much Does Plumbing Repair Cost?“

RELATED: 

• The Real Reason Aluminum Foil Has a Shiny Side and a Dull Side 
• Think Adirondack Chairs Are Uncomfortable? You’re Using Them Wrong 
• Why You Shouldn’t Crush Aluminum Cans Before Recycling 

The post You Won’t Believe What Americans Keep Flushing Down the Toilet appeared first on Family Handyman.

It is difficult to pinpoint when weavers first considered incorporating dobby borders on fabrics, but they started being a staple on bath towels sometime after the dobby loom came about in 1843, as its upgraded mechanics allowed weavers to create more complex fabric designs.

Today, dobby borders on bath towels are mostly ubiquitous, though sometimes we notice the touch of class they add. Other times, they can be frustrating, especially on lower-end towels, if the weave ends up shrinking, bunching or fraying.

Suddenly, dobby borders are having a moment, though, after someone on social media made a post wondering what they are for, and the post got more than 91 million views. If you’re curious about the answer to that question, here’s what to know about dobby borders, and why you might want, or not want them on your bathroom towels.

What Is the Strip at the Bottom of Towels Called?

That woven stripe near the edge of bath towels is called a dobby border. The name comes from the dobby loom, on which weavers use a special attachment to create simple, geometric patterns. The word “dobby” comes from the old term for a weaver’s assistant, “draw boy.” Sometimes, a dobby border is also called a dobbie border, decorative border, dobby weave, woven band, woven trim or decorative band.

What Is a Dobby Border, and What Does It Do?

A dobby border typically adds a touch of style to a towel, often through checkered, striped or diamond patterns. But it also serves more functional purposes. Because that stripe is denser and less absorbent than the rest of the towel, it helps towels hold their shape better, keeping them from shrinking unevenly in the wash and curling or fraying at the edges. Dobby borders can also make towels easier to hang on a clothesline and give added durability to towels that get washed often in commercial settings, like hotels and gyms.

“Plus, it offers a touch of design variation without printing or dyeing and often serves as a brand signature in luxury towels,” says product developer Belinda Jacobs.

What’s the Difference Between a Towel With and Without a Dobby Border?

Towels with dobby borders often last longer since the weave adds structure, thus helping the towel hold its shape. However, low-end dobby borders can shrink or pucker if they’re not properly pre-shrunk or stitched. So, whether to buy towels with a dobby border comes down to the quality of the towel you’re buying and your personal preference.

“Towels without a dobby border are usually larger and have a more modern feel, but could also be more prone to fraying or curling at the ends,” says designer Gretchen Rivera.

Do Towels With Dobby Borders Cost More?

Sometimes towels with dobby borders are more expensive because of the additional weaving process, though usually, the difference is marginal unless there are complex patterns or specialty yarns involved, like metallic threads. Often, luxury brands have dobby borders, too, and those will cost more as well.

“Dobby towels often also use a higher quality of cotton, so for the extra cost, you’re getting a more durable towel,” says Rivera. “It’s the towel equivalent of upgrading from flip-flops to loafers: still functional, just a bit more polished.

About the Experts

• Gretchen Rivera is owner and principal designer at Casa Casual Interiors in Alexandria, Virginia. She has more than two decades of experience as a conceptual artist and designer. Instagram: @casacasual_interiors.
• Belinda Jacobs is a product developer and technical designer at Tech Packs Co., where she helps fashion brands bring their products to life. She has 15 years of experience in fashion and manufacturing.

RELATED:

• The Real Reason Aluminum Foil Has a Shiny Side and a Dull Side
• Think Adirondack Chairs Are Uncomfortable? You’re Using Them Wrong
• Why You Shouldn’t Crush Aluminum Cans Before Recycling

The post Do You Know What That Strip at the Bottom of Bath Towels Is For? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Do you have any wire hangers left over from your last trip to the dry cleaners? Before you throw them away, consider that they can be surprisingly helpful when used to unclog a toilet or other drains. You can try this method if you do not have a plunger or an auger on hand and want to dislodge a clog as soon as possible. However, remember that metal hangers can scratch the porcelain of your toilet. To prevent this, I used some shrink tubing that I had at home to cover the metal hanger before attempting this method.

How does this method work? The wire coat hanger can be shaped to function like an auger, a tool used to clear blockages. To use this method, you should first remove any plastic coating or cardboard from the hanger. Be sure to wear rubber gloves to keep your hands clean. Another tip, keep a trash bin nearby so you can quickly toss the hanger out once you are finished.

If this method doesn’t work, you can try other options like a plunger or an auger. If those methods fail, it may be time to contact a plumber for assistance.

Straighten out a wire coat hanger

Straighten out the wire coat hanger by hand or using pliers. If you are removing some stuck toilet paper, you can try bending a hook at the end of the hanger so you can pull it out or push it through.

Add shrink tube at the end of the hanger

To prevent scratching the porcelain toilet, apply heat shrink tubing to the straightened hanger with a heat gun on the end of the hanger that will be inserted through the toilet drain.

Prod the clog

Put on rubber gloves and carefully insert the end of the wire with the shrink tube into the clogged area. Carefully shift the debris until it loosens and drains away. Then, attempt to flush the toilet. While a drain auger is a more effective tool for this task, a wire hanger can be used in a pinch.

FAQ

What is the strongest thing to unclog a toilet?

A plumbing auger, also known as a snake, is an effective tool for unclogging a toilet.

How to unclog a toilet when the water is high?

Use a toilet plunger or auger to unclog the toilet. Start by carefully inserting the plunger into the toilet bowl, ensuring it fills with water. Then, plunge gently until the clog is dislodged and the water drains away. If you are using an auger, place the end into the toilet bowl so that it points down the drain. Turn the handle clockwise to extend the auger cable down the drain toward the clog and remove it.

The post No Plunger? No Problem: How To Unclog Toilet With a Hanger appeared first on Family Handyman.

Are you dealing with a minor toilet clog? You can unclog it effectively using common household ingredients like baking soda and vinegar. While using a toilet plunger is a straightforward solution, this method can be a good alternative if you don’t have one available.

So, how does it work? Mixing baking soda (a base) with vinegar (an acid) results in a chemical reaction that produces carbon dioxide gas. This bubbly gas helps to break down and loosen the clog. It’s a simple and effective way to break down blockages. This is the same chemical reaction as the old “volcano” science experiment you may remember from high school, but it will also work wonders in a toilet. The chemical reaction can effectively break down certain materials, making it a useful solution for tackling minor clogs.

The key to this method is to give the solution enough time to fizzle in the toilet bowl. I suggest waiting 30 minutes for the solution to take effect; set a timer on your phone and go find something else to do in the meantime that doesn’t involve a toilet. While this may not be the ideal approach for stubborn clogs, it is still worth trying when no other options are available.

Add baking soda

Before pouring, ensure that the water level in the toilet bowl is not so high that adding this mixture will cause an overflow. Measure and pour one cup of baking soda into the toilet bowl.

Add vinegar

Measure out two cups of vinegar. Carefully pour the vinegar into the toilet bowl over the baking soda. Let the mixture sit undisturbed for 30 minutes. During this time, the vinegar’s acidity will react with the clog, helping to break it down.

Wait and flush

30 minutes later, flush the toilet to see if the clog has been removed. If the clog persists, you may need to repeat the process or use alternative methods, such as plunging the toilet or using an auger to remove the blockage.

FAQ

What happens if you put baking soda and vinegar in your toilet tank?

Using a mixture of baking soda and vinegar in your toilet tank can help remove hard water stains, but it will not unclog your toilet.

How long do you leave baking soda and vinegar in the toilet to unclog?

Let the mixture of baking soda and vinegar sit undisturbed for 30 minutes.

Is it safe to put vinegar and baking soda in the toilet bowl?

Yes, mixing vinegar and baking soda in the toilet bowl is safe.

What dissolves toilet blockage?

Mixing baking soda and vinegar in the toilet bowl can help dissolve blockages. Additionally, using hot water and dish soap can create lubrication to dislodge the clog. Premixed liquid clog dissolvers, such as Green Gobbler, Liquid-Plumr, and Drano Max, are available for purchase at stores.

What is the ratio of baking soda to vinegar to unclog a toilet?

The ideal ratio of baking soda to vinegar is 1:2, meaning one cup of baking soda should be mixed with two cups of vinegar.

The post Unclog Your Toilet With Baking Soda and Vinegar appeared first on Family Handyman.

Vacuum First, Then Scrub

Do you ever find yourself chasing strands of wet hair or running into dust balls in the corners with your sponge or cleaning rag? You can clean your bathroom better and eliminate this nuisance by vacuuming the bathroom before you get out your cleaning solutions.

For a really thorough cleaning, start at the top, vacuuming the dust from light fixtures and the top of window casings. Then work your way down. And finally, vacuum the floor methodically so you cover every inch. You don’t want to leave any stray hair or dust bunnies to muck up your cleaning water. A soft-bristle upholstery brush works best for this type of vacuuming.

Buff Off Heavy Grime

If you have glass shower doors in your bathroom and don’t keep on top of the cleaning, you can end up with soap scum so tough that it’s nearly impossible to remove. Here’s how to clean your bathroom better — bring out the heavy equipment. Pick up some polishing compound at a home center or an auto parts store and use an auto buffer to polish off the offending scum. If possible, remove the doors and take them out to the garage to avoid messing up the bathroom.

Protect Your Shower Doors From Mineral Buildup

When the beads of water left on your glass shower door dry out, they leave minerals behind that are at best unsightly, and at worst can be tough as nails to remove if you let them build up. One option is to squeegee the glass every time you shower and whenever you clean the bathroom. But there’s an easier trick. You can avoid beading water altogether by coating the glass with an auto-glass treatment. Follow the instructions on the package to apply the treatment to your shower door glass.

Install a Detachable Toilet Seat

A thorough deep clean of your bathroom includes every nook and cranny on your toilet. But it seems like no matter how hard you try, you can never get the hinges clean. There’s always a bit of cleaning solution that seeps underneath and creeps out later. Installing a detachable toilet seat solves the problem. Then you have easy access to clean under the hinges.

Remove Stubborn Rust Stains With Acid Magic

If you have a lot of iron in your water and struggle with rust stains in your bathtub or toilet, here’s a perfect solution. Acid Magic dissolves rust like, well, magic. It’s as powerful as muriatic acid but much safer and more pleasant to use. You should still take all the precautions you would with any strong cleaning solution, like wearing gloves and safety glasses when you’re using it. But it’s better than regular acid because there are no noxious fumes, and it won’t burn your skin.

To clean rust from toilets and other porcelain surfaces, add three parts water to one part Acid Magic. Apply the mixture to the rust stains with a sprayer, brush or foam pad and watch the stain dissolve. Rinse with clear water. You can also use it full strength for stubborn stains. Avoid getting the acid on metal parts because they can discolor.

Remove Tough Grime With Less Scrubbing

Whether it’s built-up soap scum on the shower walls, ground-in dirt on the floor tile or dried toothpaste on the vanity top, a Magic Eraser-type sponge will make short work of it. Just dampen it and rub it on the offending mess. In most cases, the mess will come right off. These sponges are especially useful for removing ground-in dirt from porous floor tile and getting those pesky nonslip strips in the bottom of your tub clean. Unlike regular sponges, though, they wear out pretty fast. So be prepared to stock up.

Make Your Own Greener Cleaning Solution

Professional housecleaner Maggie Orth likes to make her own cleaning products. Here’s her recipe for an all-purpose cleaning solution, modified from a recipe she found in the book Clean House, Clean Planet by Karen Logan. Use this mixture to clean tile, countertops and painted woodwork. It’s a good all-purpose cleaner, but it’s not the best for cleaning glass. Orth uses club soda to clean glass.

In a 5-quart bucket, mix 1 cup of distilled vinegar, 3 tablespoons of borax, 1 gallon of hot water and 1/2 cup of soap-Orth uses Dr. Bronner’s Sal Suds. She likes to add 10 or 15 drops of tea tree, lavender or lemon oil for a nice fragrance. Mix the ingredients and then pour some of the mixture into a spray bottle. Save the rest in a gallon jug. The raw ingredients will set you back about $25 to $30, but you’ll have enough to last for years!

Clean Grout With a Bleach Pen

For tile walls, try using a bleach pen to transform your grout from grungy to great. This method is tedious, but the payoff is crisp, clean grout lines. Use the pen to “draw” bleach across the grout lines. The pen allows you to target the grout without getting bleach all over the tile. Wait ten minutes and then rinse.

For really mildewed grout, you may need a second application, and it can help to gently scrub the bleach into the grout with a toothbrush before allowing it to sit. Make sure to run the fan in the bathroom and to avoid skin contact. This method is best for light or white grout. If you have colored grout, test a small area first. It might fade.

Clean the Exhaust Fan

It’s often overlooked, but cleaning your bathroom fan is essential to a clean, safe bathroom. Dirty fans don’t work as well, which means it can’t do its job of preventing mold and mildew. Clogged exhaust fans are also a fire hazard.

If the grille on your bathroom exhaust fan is clogged with dust, try a trick that’s faster and more effective than vacuuming. Turn on the fan and blast out the dust with “canned air.” The fan will blow the dust outside. This works on the return air grilles of your central heating/cooling system too. Run the system so that the return airflow will carry the dust to the filter.

Caution: The cans contain chemical propellants, not just air. Don’t let children play with them.

Bleach Away Stains

Remove stubborn stains from marble, cultured marble or plastic laminate with a bleach-soaked paper towel. Cover the towel with a cup to contain the bleach odor, and leave it in place overnight. If the stain has faded but not disappeared, just repeat the process. Test this trick in a hidden area first; it could discolor the surface.

Warning: If you have quartz countertops in your bathroom, it’s recommended you NOT use bleach.

Make Cleaning Easier

One-piece toilets are easier to clean (fewer nooks and crannies), but they’re also more expensive and can be harder to install than a two-piece unit (they’re a lot heavier than a separate bowl and tank). If you’re feeling flush and want to make it really easy to clean your bathroom, consider a wall-mounted toilet.

Photo: Courtesy of Toto USA, Inc.

About the Expert

Maggie Orth is a professional housecleaner.

The post 11 Surprising Tips Guaranteed to Make Cleaning the Bathroom a Breeze appeared first on Family Handyman.

The key to this nightmare possibility of a fire caused by a bathroom fan is dust and dirt buildup on the inside of the fan. This brings us to the point of this post: When it comes to bathroom fans, looks can be deceiving. Even if one runs a duster over the outside of the fan to make it look clean, many do not give a second thought to what is going on inside the fan, which is just as important to keep clean as the outside. That’s why cleaning influencer Azure MacCannell (@livecomposed) came up with a great hack to assess whether or not your bathroom fan needs a deep clean.

Hack To See If Your Bathroom Fan Needs Cleaning

In MacCannell’s video, she displays one of her bathroom fans, which is covered in dust. To check the airflow, she places a paper towel on a flat mop pad and uses the flat mop to press the paper towel into the ceiling fan. After a moment, she pulls back the flat mop, but the paper towel sticks to the bathroom fan, indicating good and unobstructed airflow.

She tries this method again on a different bathroom fan in her house that actually looks cleaner than the previous one. Despite the cleaner appearance, the paper does not stick to the fan, indicating that something may be obstructing the airflow in the fan.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Azure MacCannell 👋 Cleaning & Organizing (@livecomposed)

It’s important to remember that this method is not a definitive indication of whether or not a fan needs to be cleaned (there could be other reasons the airflow in any given fan isn’t good). Rather, it’s a reminder that looks can be deceiving when it comes to ceiling fans. While the outside may look clean as a whistle, the inside may still be dusty and dirty.

Rather than leaving it up to chance and an unscientific paper towel suction test, you should instead work cleaning your bathroom fan into your cleaning routine on a monthly basis.

The post Your Bathroom Fan May Be Dirtier Than You Think— Here’s a Hack to Tell appeared first on Family Handyman.

Mold has an amazing way of showing up in bathrooms, basements and around or behind baseboards. The bottom line is that mold spores are found in every household. However, mold can’t grow if moisture is eliminated.

You can’t and won’t ever be able to control mold if moisture levels are not controlled and if the mold has penetrated an organic surface and started to decompose it. This could be surfaces such as drywall, masonry, or wood. The other challenge is mold is everywhere, AND there are many, many types of common molds.

The good news is that if a surface has been painted and mold has not found its way below the surface and into organic matter, mold can be removed. It is a very fine line, but it is possible.

The single most common place to find mold in a home is a poorly ventilated bathroom. With every shower, mold is fed the main ingredient it needs to grow—moisture. Seeing black spots appear on your ceiling is a telltale sign you need a more effective fan or ventilation system to help rid the moisture faster so the mold doesn’t have an opportunity to grow. Mold can only be removed from a bathroom ceiling IF it hasn’t penetrated below the surface of the paint and into the actual drywall.

When to call a pro

In the event that the mold is widespread, larger than a 10-square foot area, or has penetrated the surface of the paint into the drywall, insulation, or framing, it is advisable to consult a mold abatement specialist to remove any exposed or damaged areas.

Safety considerations

When dealing with mold, whether it be removing it from a ceiling or even doing a DIY mold test, be sure to protect yourself. Mold spores are very small and easily airborne, and you don’t want to breathe them in. Always wear safety glasses, a respiratory mask and plastic gloves when dealing with mold.

Here are the steps to help clean up mold and keep it under control.

Clean mold with vinegar

Start by saturating the mold with distilled white vinegar (containing 5% acetic acid) or cleaning vinegar (containing 6% acetic acid) using a spray bottle. You can mix a vinegar and water solution if the smell bothers you, but I would not advise diluting more than 1:1. Let it soak for around ten minutes and begin wiping it away. Avoid rubbing the mold around; you want to wipe it off as much as possible. With each wipe, fold the cloth over to maintain a clean area to avoid spreading mold. If you have a particularly stubborn spot, apply another round of vinegar. Let it sit for a few more minutes, and wipe it down again.

When you have removed all the surface mold from your bathroom ceiling, wipe down the ceiling and surrounding areas. Throw away all the towels used to clean the mold. Allow the area to dry completely.

As an alternative, you can follow these steps using 3% hydrogen peroxide. However, never mix vinegar and hydrogen peroxide. Together they create peracetic acid, which can irritate the eyes, skin and respiratory system.

Apply primer

Once the area has completely dried, apply two coats of primer. Mold stains are hard to cover, so the second coat of primer is necessary.

Apply paint

Once the primer has fully dried and you are satisfied with the stain coverage, apply at least two coats of paint.  Semi-gloss is the recommended paint finish for bathroom ceilings.

Pro Tip: Pool paint works great for bathroom walls and ceilings – it is mildew and mold-resistant and designed to live in moisture, sealing the organic material out and preventing mold from finding a place to live. 

FAQ

What can I do to minimize mold in my home?

In order to prevent mold growth in your home, keep your home well-ventilated with fans of appropriate sizes in the bathrooms and open your curtains to allow the sunlight to shine through. Make sure you are aware of any water leaks or water damage to your ceiling, and repair it as soon as possible. To deter mold, occasionally spray your bathroom ceiling with mold removal spray.

Is vinegar or bleach better for mold on ceilings?

For ceiling mold removal, vinegar kills mold more effectively than bleach. Unlike bleach, which only treats the surface and contains water that can promote regrowth, vinegar’s high acidity destroys mold down to its roots, especially on porous surfaces like drywall.

The post Clearing Mold Off Your Bathroom Ceiling: A Step-by-Step Guide appeared first on Family Handyman.

But what if I told you a simple product most people have lying around the house could simplify this whole process? If you have dryer sheets in your laundry room, they’re about to change how you clean your toilet forever.

How To Use Dryer Sheets To Clean a Toilet

Dryer sheets are made of polyester or other cellulose fibers, which happen to pick up hair and dust on the surface of a toilet than a wet sponge. Instead of going right in with something wet, put on a pair of gloves and run a dryer sheet over all the toilet surfaces. It will act like a lint roller, picking up all the dry muck on your seat and leaving it prepped for you to go in with your wet cleaning products for a perfect clean.

Check out TikTok user @The MatureCleaner using the method:

@theamateurcleaner Makes it easy to clean💖#cleantok #fyp #cleaninghacks #viral #housekeeper #houskeeepingtip #hack #home #trending ♬ midnight rain x daylight – kait .𖥔 ݁ ˖

If you’re concerned about wasting precious dryer sheets using this method, know you needn’t use a brand-new sheet to take advantage of it. The sheet’s fabric picks up the dust, not the softeners and fragrances it’s coated with.

Save your dryer sheets after drying your clothes. You can then use them again while cleaning your bathroom.

Alternatives To Dryer Sheets

As an alternative to using dryer sheets to dust your toilet, you can use dry pads for dry mops, like the Swiffer Sweeper, to achieve the same effect. However, this method eliminates the benefit of reusing the pads like you can with a dryer sheet (you wouldn’t want to clean your toilet with a dry pad you just used on your dirty floors).

The post A Used Dryer Sheet Can Make Cleaning Your Toilet So Much Easier appeared first on Family Handyman.

“As people adopt more automated systems — like smart thermostats, smoke detectors and air purifiers — traditional, unconnected devices like exhaust fans fall out of regular inspection and maintenance routines,” says Jon Gilbertson, president of Chris Heating & Cooling. “This gap creates a hidden vulnerability in what we think of as safe.”

This viral TikTok video from the wife of a firefighter points out how dust accumulates over the years in our bathroom fans, and how that creates what she defines as the “number one fire danger in your house.”

@unhingedreviewswjess Google will tell you the most common house fire is a kitchen fire. That may be the most common way fired get *started* in houses, but not how they burn to the ground. RJ said kitchen fires are usually put out by the time they arrive on scene. It’s not only RJ’s opinion that this is the most dangerous fire in your home, but I met a retired FF who was working as a Fire Safety guy that worked for the city that 100% agreed with him. Exhaust fans accumulate sooo much dust and dirt over the years. I prefer to replace them over cleaning them. They’re not terribly expensive or difficult to replace. A lot easier than replacing your home, and not to mention everything in it!! Stay safe, friends. #firefighter #firefightertiktok #firefighters #homeimprovement #renovation #diyproject #homeproject #homerenovation ♬ Suspense, horror, piano and music box – takaya

Here’s what can go wrong with bathroom exhaust fans, and how to prevent them from starting a fire in your home.

How Do Exhaust Fans Become a Fire Hazard?

This happens partly because we often overlook cleaning bathroom exhaust fans. They tend to accumulate dust. As that builds up on the fan blades and vents, the motor has to work harder to move air, which can cause it to overheat and cause the bearings to wear. All of this has the potential to spark a fire, especially if the motor shorts out.

Overusing the fan adds to the danger. “Because they’re almost always plugged in, any damage in the wiring or circuit can cause sparks that can spread into a fire,” says Timothy Wood, founder of Fix It Today.

Old and improperly installed wiring can also create problems, especially if the insulation on the wires degrades or the connections loosen. Gilbertson says this danger can be compounded by bathrooms’ high humidity.

Why Are Exhaust Fan Fires So Dangerous?

Exhaust fan fires commonly get out of control because they start above the ceiling, out of view and out of reach from fire detectors. In a confined area, like an attic, they are also likely to ignite insulation and other materials. Besides causing structural damage, those can create toxic smoke that seeps into living areas.

Exhaust fan fires are “particularly dangerous because the fan’s design and placement create a chimney effect,” says Gilbertson. “When a fire starts in or near the fan, the heat naturally rises through nearby ductwork, amplifying the fire’s intensity and allowing flames to move quickly into other parts of the home.”

How to Avoid Exhaust Fan Fires

We don’t want to get rid of our exhaust fans, since they keep our bathrooms from getting moldy, but we can keep them from being dangerous by:

• Making sure the vent pipe, discharge end and fan blade are free from obstruction;
• Cleaning the system out annually and checking wires and circuits for signs of wear and damage. To clan them properly, remove the exhaust fan cover and use a brush or vacuum to remove any debris from both sides of the cover and any accessible portion of the fan housing, says Kevin Busch, president at Dryer Vent Wizard.
• Checking installation, with the exhaust fan vent pipe being less than 15 feet;
• Installing a newer fan, with thermal protection, which shuts down if the fan overheats;
• Making sure they’re properly vented, with exhaust not going directly into the attic, but rather outside of the home through a wall, soffit or roof.

“We find many bath fans that are not exhausted using the proper materials, which can allow fires to burn through the venting increasing the risk of a fire spreading,” says Busch.

Also, it’s very important to use exhaust fans in moderation and turn them off promptly. “Put the fan on a timer that only allows 30 minutes of use at a time,” says Todd Tripp, a home improvement expert with JustAnswer.com. “This lets the fan cool down and not run constantly as fans are easily left on continuously.”

Wood also recommends providing a dedicated circuit for the exhaust fan to avoid overloading. “If you must connect it to a circuit that services several other devices, make sure the total load doesn’t exceed that circuit’s capacity,” he says.
Lastly, consider installing a humidity sensor fan that runs only when necessary. This will reduce wear and prevent constant dust buildup, says Gilbertson, “a smart, hands-off solution for busy households.”

About the Experts

• Timothy Wood is founder and CEO of Fix It Today, an online home repair scheduling and estimate service based in the Dallas-Fort Worth area.
• Todd Tripp is a general contractor and founder of Trip Mills Builders in upstate South Carolina, and a home improvement expert with JustAnswer.com.
• Jon Gilbertson is president and CEO at Chris Heating & Cooling, a family business based in Chicago, where he began his career as an HVAC technician in 2015.
• Kevin Busch is president of Dryer Vent Wizard, a Neighborly Company and national home service franchise specializing in professional dryer duct and vent cleaning, inspection, repair and maintenance services.

The post There’s a Hidden Fire Hazard in Your Bathroom You Might Be Ignoring appeared first on Family Handyman.

Grab bars aren’t just safety devices for hospitals and public restrooms. In your own home, a strategically placed and solidly anchored grab bar can mean the difference between a relaxing bath and a trip to the emergency room. Grab bars are an example of universal design. They provide extra security for the first slippery step in your bathtub or shower.

Here, we’ll show you where to position grab bars and how to anchor them so they’re rock-solid. Plus, they’re a solid home improvement investment that pays off.

If you’ve mounted towel bars or other hardware around the house, you’ll have no trouble installing grab bars or a bathtub handrail. It shouldn’t take more than a few hours. You’ll only need a hammer, a level, a drill and a few special drill bits. A stud sensor is optional. Anchoring your grab bars to the studs will make them rock-solid.

Video: How to Install a Bathroom Grab Bar

Buy the right safety grab bars

Grab bars are specially manufactured to hold at least 250 lbs. when properly secured. Towel bars and other light-duty bars are not strong enough.

Most shower bars are stainless steel to resist corrosion, but you can also find them with a painted finish in various colors. We purchased our 1-1/2 in. dia. white grab bars at a home center. The 18-in. bar cost about $30; the 24-in. bar about $40. Thinner bars are available, but a standard 1-1/2 in. dia. shower bar like we’re using is just right for most people’s grip. Some bars feature added texture to reduce slipping. Here are a few guidelines for selecting grab bars:

• Purchase an 18-in. or longer bar to mount vertically at the tub edge.
• Locate the studs before you buy a bar to mount at an angle or horizontally on the long tub wall. Then buy a bar that reaches from one stud to the other, usually 32 in. long for a horizontal bar and 24 in. long for an angled bar.
• Buy standard 1-1/2 in. dia. grab bars for most situations. Thinner bars look more like towel bars and may not be strong enough for heavy use.
• Avoid grab bars that leave more than a 1-1/2 in. space between the bar and the wall unless there is a specific reason for using one. A person’s arm could slip into the extra-wide space and become trapped or break during a fall.
• If you’re installing grab bars for a person with special needs, ask a physical therapist or an occupational therapist to help you select the right bars.

Identify where you’ll position your grab bars

Even a solidly anchored grab bar is useless if it’s in the wrong place. What location is best depends on the particular situation. If you’re installing the bars for a person with a disability or injury, have this person help you decide which location will be most helpful. Here are tips for making your home safer for older folks.

A physical therapist or an occupational therapist can also help with this decision. Stud locations are critical for solid anchoring. (Later, we’ll tell you what to do if studs aren’t available.)

Here are guidelines for placing the bars:

• Place an 18-in. to 24-in. long bar vertically at the tub edge to assist in getting in and out of the tub. The bottom of the bar should be 32 to 38 in. above the floor. Position the bar so it can be anchored to a wall stud.
• Mount a bar at an angle between two wall studs on the long back wall of the tub (Photo 7). The bottom of the bar should be about 6 to 10 in. above the top of the tub. For studs 16 in. apart, a 24-in. long bar provides a nice angle. A person can use this grab bar to help lower himself and get up again.
• If this bar will be used primarily by a person sitting in a bath chair, raise the bottom to about 18 in. above the tub.
• Mount a bar horizontally about 36 in. to 38 in. above the bottom of the tub as a convenient handhold while showering.

Locate and mark the stud locations

If you’re mounting your grab bars to standard wood-framed walls, first you’ll have to precisely locate the vertical framing members called studs. Most grab bars have three screw holes in each mounting flange, but you’ll only be able to anchor two of the three screws into a typical 1-1/2 inch wide stud. Use a plastic anchor for the third screw. As long as these screws penetrate at least an inch into sound wood, the grab bar will meet or exceed the 250-lb. load rating required by the government for public buildings. More importantly, it will be strong enough to support you even in the fall.

We’ll show you how to mount grab bars to fiberglass tubs and showers, hollow walls and concrete. Studs are easy to find in walls with only a single layer of drywall over the framing. Rap on the wall with your knuckle until the sound changes from hollow to a dull thud, or use a stud sensor, like in the photo above. Thicker wall coverings like plaster present a greater challenge. Here are a few tips for installing grab bars:

• Remove the access hatch behind the tub drain and peer behind the tub with a flashlight to look for studs.
• Go to the room or closet behind the long tub wall and look for clues to stud locations like nails in the baseboard. Then, measure from a reference point that you can identify when you return to the bathroom.

Finally, make a light pencil mark at the center of each stud.

Mark the sides of the studs for grab bars

When you’ve located what you believe to be the center of the studs, confirm the stud locations and find both edges by probing with a nail. Make a series of holes in an inconspicuous location, like directly above the tile, and mark both edges of the studs.

If wall tile extends to the ceiling, drill 1/8-in. holes with a glass-and-tile or masonry bit in a horizontal grout line instead. Patch the holes later with matching grout or caulk.

Transfer the stud locations to the tile

Extend the stud marks down to the grab bar location with a level. Place a strip of 1-1/2 in. masking tape on the tile to indicate the studs.

Place the grab bar over the studs

Position the grab bar (see “Positioning Your Shower Grab Bars.”) so that at least two of the screw holes align with the studs. Mark the studs and grab bar mounting holes with a grease pencil.

Drill into the studs

Drill a 1/8-in. hole with a glass-and-tile bit at the mark closest to the center of each stud to confirm the stud location. If you hit solid wood, drill the remaining holes. If not, poke a piece of bent wire through the hole and probe until you feel the stud. Reposition the grab bar and mark the holes.

• Pro tip: If you miss the stud, adjust the grab bar location accordingly and drill new holes. In most cases, the unused hole will be covered by the mounting plate on the grab bar.

Caulk the mounting flange

Caulk the back of the shower bar mounting flange with tub-and-tile adhesive or silicone caulk.

Attach the grab to the wall

Use a 1/4-in. glass-and-tile or masonry bit to enlarge the holes. Then use a 5/32-in. wood bit to drill pilot holes into the stud. This will make driving the screws easier. Insert a plastic anchor in the holes in the tile that miss the stud Then screw the shower bar to the wall with No. 10 or 12 stainless steel pan head screws. Make sure the screws penetrate the studs at least 1 in. In most cases, 2-in. screws are long enough.

How to Install Grab Bars When You Can’t Anchor to a Stud

If you simply can’t anchor the shower bar to a stud, you have a few options. The best alternative is to secure wood blocking between the studs. However, this requires opening a small hole in the wall and patching it after the blocking is screwed into place. Work from the backside of the tub wall if possible, where you’re not hindered by ceramic tile or other tub finishes. If you’re lucky, you’ll have a closet or storage area where the wall patch doesn’t have to be perfect.

As a last resort, use toggle bolts or WingIts to mount the shower bar to the hollow part of the wall. The plaster, mortar or tile backer must be dry and solid and at least 5/8 in. thick.

Special anchor for fiberglass enclosures

The Solid Mount solves the fiberglass shower problem. Fiberglass tub and shower enclosures present a unique challenge. You must mount the shower bar to a stud, but the space between the stud and fiberglass must also be filled with something or the fiberglass will bend as you tighten the mounting screws.

Special toggle bolt for hollow walls

Toggler brand toggle bolts work great for hollow walls or steel studs. If you simply can’t mount your grab bar to a stud or solid wood backing, then these Toggler brand 1/4-in. toggle bolts are the thing to use. Follow the instructions on the package to mount the toggle. Then use a 2-in. x 1/4-in. x No. 20 stainless steel machine screw to attach the grab bar to the toggle anchor. Use the same method to mount grab bars to steel studs.

The best way to anchor grab bars to concrete

Plastic plug anchors hold screws tight in masonry or concrete. Anchor grab bars to concrete, concrete block or brick with 1/4-in. x 1-1/2 in. plastic plug anchors and No. 12 stainless steel pan head screws.

Drill a 1/4-in. hole with a masonry bit (you may need a hammer drill for concrete or hard brick). Push the sleeve into the hole and drive in the screw.

Pull on the shower bar to confirm it’s secure

Now’s the time to make sure the shower bar will hold up when it’s really needed, which means you need to do a yank-test. Give the shower bars a good solid yank to test their holding power. With a helper standing by in case the bar comes loose, pull with all your strength.

While you’re at it, consider installing grab bars in other key locations. A vertical or angled bar mounted on the wall to the side of the toilet or a vertical bar installed on the side wall in front of the toilet helps get up or down. Our expert recommended mounting a vertical bar beside the entry door from an attached garage.

Usually, there isn’t a handrail, and negotiating two or three steps with a bag of groceries under your arm is a lot easier and safer with a grab bar to hang on to. Look around and you’ll find other spots where grab bars would make everyday tasks safer and easier.

The post Shower Bar: How to Install Bathroom Grab Bars appeared first on Family Handyman.

Tile Layout Preparation

Mockup and measure a row of tiles to determine the layout. If you’ll use spacers to create grout lines, add them between the tiles before you measure. Use the measurement as your tile layout calculator to determine whether you should shift the layout to get a wider tile in the corner and determine the tile layout for the end walls of a tub or shower.

Draw level and plumb tile layout lines on the wall to guide your installation. Measure a row of tile to determine the location of the plumb line on the back wall. Subtract about 3/4 in. from the height of the tile and use this measurement to locate the height of the level line above the tub or shower.

No Skinny Tile Strips

Don’t leave a skinny strip of tile in the corners. Plan for the widest possible corner tile for the most attractive tile job.

Locate the starting plumb line to leave the widest possible same-sized tiles at each corner. Lay out the tile on the floor and use the back wall measurement to determine how wide the corner tiles will be. If starting with the edge of a full tile in the center of the back wall leaves a skinny strip in the corner, shift the plumb line by half the width of the tile. This will increase the size of the corner tiles.

Start Out Level

Screw a straight board to the level line and stack tiles on the board. When you’ve completed tiling above the board, and the tiles are held firmly, remove the board and cut the first row of tiles to fit. Leave a 1/8-in. space between the tub and the tile to allow the installation of a flexible bead of caulk. This allows you to wrap tile around tub corners, as shown in the photo below.

Don’t start the first row of tile by resting it against the tub or shower. It’ll cause trouble because most tubs and showers aren’t perfectly straight or level. Your tile will wander from the plumb line, and misaligned grout lines will be your only solution.

Tile Extends Beyond Tub

Plan the tile layout so a column of tile extends past the end of the tub. Use the method shown in the first step to determine how wide the corner tile needs to be to extend the tile beyond the tub. Plan to extend the tile 2 or 3 in. beyond the tub and leave at least a half tile along the wall if possible.

Don’t stop tile even with the end of the tub. This leaves the walls along the front of the tub vulnerable to water damage and doesn’t look as finished as tile that extends to the floor.

The post Shower Tile Layout Tips for Remodeling Your Bathroom appeared first on Family Handyman.

Clogged Toilet

“A clog in the toilet trap or drainpipe is the most common reason a toilet won’t flush,” says Bux. “This can be due to excessive toilet paper, foreign objects, or waste buildup.” Unfortunately, when this happens, there’s a danger of an overflow if you keep flushing, so the toilet is effectively out of service until the clog goes away.

Fixes to try

• Grab a plunger. Not a flat-bottomed sink plunger, but a bell-shaped toilet plunger. Bux recommends the Korky Beehive Max Plunger, but any brand will do. You should keep one in the bathroom, because plumbers agree it will clear most toilet clogs if you use it properly.
• Pour in some dish soap. The soap may provide enough lubrication to coax the clog out of the way. Plunge after you pour it in.
• Use a snake. “A toilet auger (also known as a closet auger) like the RIDGID K-6 Toilet Auger can help reach and break up deeper clogs,” says Bux.
• Try an enzymatic clog buster. A non-corrosive drain cleaner like Green Gobbler Toilet Bowl Clog Remover may work, but it will take time, so this isn’t an instant solution. Bux cautions to use it sparingly to avoid damaging the plumbing. Whatever you do, stay away from conventional corrosive drain cleaners, which often cause more problems than they solve.
• Pull the toilet and manually clear the clog if nothing else works.

Misadjusted Float

In a gravity-fed toilet, the float rides on the water’s surface and shuts off the fill valve when the water level reaches the predetermined height. If the float isn’t properly adjusted, it can shut off the valve before the tank has enough water for a flush.

Fixes to try

• Adjust the float arm. If your toilet has a ball float, it’s connected to the fill valve by a rod with a slight bend. Rotate the rod to make the bend face the top of the tank. If the rod is metal and has no bend, go ahead and bend it yourself.
• Shorten the float arm. Turn the rod or the ball clockwise through several rotations to shorten the rod. It must rise higher to develop enough force to shut off the valve.
• Use the adjustment screw. If your toilet has a cup float that rides up and down on the fill valve tube, use a screwdriver to turn the screw on top of the float clockwise. This shortens the rod connected to the fill valve and raises the water level.

Misadjusted or Disconnected Chain

Vandepoll says that a broken or fallen-off lift chain is a common problem. You can recognize this issue immediately because you won’t feel any resistance when you press the flush valve, and nothing will happen.

Fixes to try

First, you must Turn off the toilet shutoff valve, remove the tank lid and manually lift the flapper or canister to empty the tank’s contents into the bowl.

• Reconnect the chain if it has fallen off.
• Shorten the chain if it’s too long. Disengage it from the hook on the flush lever and reconnect it a few links closer to the flapper. Turn on the water, test the flush and repeat the process if the chain is still too long.

Leaky Flapper

“On toilets with flappers,” says Vandepoll, “the flapper may be letting water slip past, either due to wear and tear or just an improper fit or adjustment.” Toilets with this problem usually experience “phantom flushing” as the fill valve cycles on repeatedly to replace the water lost through the flapper. You may also see swirling water or bubbles in the tank.

Fixes to try

• Hold the flapper down. For a quick fix, hold the flapper (or canister) down until the tank fills with enough water for a flush. Once you’ve done this, turn off the shutoff valve to avoid wasting water until you have time to replace the flapper.
• Replace the flapper. If the flapper won’t seal, it’s time to replace it. (Most toilets use a standard 2-in. flapper, but some larger ones will use a 3-in. version. If you’re unsure of what size, you can get adjustable Super Flapper, which can be adapted to fit either size.
• Replace the canister seal. If your toilet has a leaking canister instead of a flapper, you simply have to replace the rubber gasket on the bottom of the canister — not the whole canister.

Malfunctioning Fill Valve

The cylindrical fill valve (most modern ones are plastic) opens to let water into the tank and closes to stop the flow according to instructions from the float. It “may get stuck partway up due to debris in the mechanism, incorrect adjustment or just wear and tear,” maintains Vandepoll, and when that happens, the tank may not fill with enough water for a flush.

Fixes to try

• Jiggle the lever attached to the float. This may dislodge whatever is preventing the valve from opening.
• Flush the valve. Turn off the water, remove the cap (some twist off and some have screws) and turn the water back on again to clear out debris.
• Adjust the valve. Use a screwdriver to turn the adjustment screw on the top of the valve counterclockwise. This should increase the flow.
• Replace the fill valve if you can’t get it to work, or it malfunctions repeatedly. Fill valves are inexpensive (around $15), and the procedure is quick and easy.

The Refill Tube Has Popped Out

Sometimes, the refill tube, which is connected to the fill valve, isn’t properly aimed toward the center of the overflow tube. If so, all the water from the fill valve goes directly into the bowl and not the tank, so the toilet won’t flush.

Fixes to try

• Reposition the refill tube. It’s made of flexible plastic, so you can bend it until you can get the end inside the refill tube. You can do this without turning off the water.
• Clamp it in place. Some overflow tubes have molded inlets to hold the refill tube in place, while others have special clamps. You’ll usually see the clamp still attached to the overflow tube. If you don’t clamp the refill tube, it’ll probably stay in place for a while, but you may have to fix it again in a few weeks.

Blocked Rim Jets or Siphon Jet

Rim jets are small holes under the toilet bowl’s rim that release water during a flush. They can get blocked with mineral deposits or debris, reducing flushing power and eventually resulting in impartial flushes.

Fixes to try

• Clean them. Bux’s advice: “Use a small brush or a wire hanger to clean the rim jets.” Mineral deposits are tough to remove, so you’ll need a very stiff brush, or even a wire brush. Don’t worry about scratches; no one is ever going to poke their head in there to see them.
• Dissolve them. “Pour household vinegar into the overflow tube and let it sit for a few hours before flushing,” says Bux. Vinegar is an acid that dissolves mineral deposits, and it’s safe to flush down the toilet, even if you’re on a septic system.

Sewer Blockage

A few problems are so gnarly that you won’t be able to fix them before going to work, and this is one of them. Fortunately, sewer obstructions take time to develop, so you should have plenty of warning. Flushing will become progressively more sluggish over a period of days or weeks, and the best time to address this problem is before the toilet stops flushing altogether.

Fixes to try

• Try clearing the obstruction yourself. Locate the clean-out nearest the sewer inlet, which may be in the basement or just outside the house. Use a wrench to remove the cap, insert a sewer auger (a long, heavy-duty snake that you can rent) and try to clear the obstruction. You might get lucky.
• Call a plumber. You won’t have any luck if the obstruction is out of reach or if it’s caused by tree roots or something else an augur can’t clear. In this case, you need a plumber with cameras to diagnose the blockage and heavy-duty equipment like water jets to clear it.

Blocked Vents

According to Vandepoll: “Your plumbing system relies on proper venting to equalize pressure and keep everything running correctly. Vent pipes can get clogged or damaged by things like bird nests, insect nests, leaves, or ice, and this can cause poor water flow or fluctuating water levels in the toilet.”

Vent blockages appear similar to sewer blockages, but Vandepoll points out a key difference: “Normally a vent pipe blockage will cause issues with other fixtures as well, and will not just appear as a toilet problem.” The bathroom sink or shower may drain slowly, and you may hear gurgling sounds from these drains when you flush the toilet.

Fixes to try

• Clear the vent stack. Go on the roof (if it’s safe — otherwise, have a pro do this) and clear the opening of the main vent stack. Shoot a jet of water from a garden hose into the vent opening to clear any obstructions you can’t see. Don’t worry…the water will go into the sewer.
• Melt the ice. It’s common for vent stacks to ice over in the winter, and you must clear the ice. Rather than risking your life walking on an icy roof, go into the attic and use a hair dryer to heat the portion of the stack just below the roofline and melt the ice inside.
• Upgrade the vent. If icing over is a frequent problem, it’s probably because the stack is undersized. A three-inch pipe is recommended in freezing climates, so if yours is only two inches, have a plumber upgrade it.

Septic System Issues

Homes on septic systems have a special set of potential problems. The inlet to the septic tank may have a screen that can clog, the tank itself may be full, or the whole system may be vulnerable to flooding and backing up when it rains heavily. All of these problems — and more serious ones like a clogged drain field or a malfunctioning transfer pump — can prevent a toilet from flushing.

Fixes to try

• Get the tank pumped. Even if you aren’t having problems, you should do this every three to five years. During this process, the septic pros should be able to identify and fix problems like blocked screens.
• Check the transfer pump. When your drain field is on higher ground than the tank, you need a transfer pump in the tank. If it stops working, check the breaker because it may have tripped (this happened in a house I used to own). Otherwise, have the pump professionally evaluated and replace it if necessary.
• Have a backup plan. If your system is prone to flooding or freezing, you may simply have to stop flushing the toilet until outdoor conditions improve. If so, consider installing a waterless toilet, such as a composting toilet, in an auxiliary bathroom that you can use in emergencies.

About the Experts

Hendrik Vandepoll is the co-owner and service manager of Service Force Plumbing, located in Rockville, MD. He has over 30 years of experience in the plumbing trade.

Asif Bux is the owner and service manager of Comfort Union, a family-owned plumbing, HVAC and electrical service located in Calgary, AB.

The post Toilet Won’t Flush? These Are the Most Likely Reasons and How to Fix It appeared first on Family Handyman.

There comes a time when you need to remove a toilet from a bathroom for one reason or another. Maybe you need to replace the toilet, or perhaps you are in the middle of a bathroom remodeling project, installing new floors underneath the toilet and painting behind it. Though it may seem intimidating, removing a toilet is an easy task most DIYers can do.

Removing a toilet requires no special tools and does not take very long. If you plan to dispose of your old toilet once it has been removed, I recommend contacting your local waste management facility to inquire about the proper disposal methods for it.

When To Call a Pro

It is not necessary to hire a professional plumber to remove a toilet. However, you should ensure that you are capable of heavy lifting and bending over numerous times during the project. Seek the assistance of a plumber or handyman if you are not confident in removing a toilet yourself and to also ensure the replacement seat fits properly.

Shut off water to toilet

Turn off the water supply to the toilet by turning the shut-off valve clockwise. Flush the toilet to remove all the water from the tank. Plunge the toilet to remove as much residual water as possible from the bowl and trap.

Disconnect the water line

Disconnect the water supply line from the toilet tank with an adjustable wrench. Have a bucket or towel ready to catch any water dripping from the supply line.

Loosen the floor bolts

Use a flathead screwdriver or putty knife to pry off the caps covering the bolts at the toilet’s base. Then, using an adjustable wrench, unscrew the nuts.

Cut the Caulk Free

If caulk or silicone was used to caulk your toilet to the floor, cut through it using a utility knife.

Remove toilet tank

Remove the tank cover and set it aside. If there is still a little water present in the bottom of the tank, soak as much of it up as possible with towels so that it doesn’t drip all over the floor. Unscrew the bolts connecting the toilet tank to the bowl. Carefully lift the tank off the bowl and set it aside.

Remove toilet bowl

Once the toilet is loose, prepare a place to set it, like a moving blanket or piece of cardboard. Then, lift it up and pull it free from the flange. Be ready for any last bits of water to spill out during this step.

Clean off the flange

Clean any remaining wax from the toilet wax ring off the toilet flange with a putty knife or towels. If you are not replacing the toilet immediately, stuff a towel into the drain opening to prevent sewer gases from escaping.

FAQ

Do you have to replace the wax ring when you remove a toilet?

Yes, you must replace the wax ring whenever you replace or reinstall a toilet.

Do plumbers remove toilets?

Yes, hiring a plumber to remove your toilet and dispose of it for you is possible. However, this service can cost up to $250.

Do you have to drain a toilet before removing it?

Yes. It is important to drain the toilet before removing it to avoid any spillage or extra weight.

The post How To Remove a Toilet the Right Way appeared first on Family Handyman.

Luckily, I’m here to tell you I survived, and you will too. Fixing a pop-up assembly like this is not only doable, but it’s also a great, low-stakes way to learn a little bit about your home’s plumbing.

I consulted with a pair of master plumbers, Stephen Venturelli and Beau Means, about the most common types of bathroom sink stoppers and how to repair or replace them.

If you have a drain stopper that needs attention, there’s no need to worry. As Venturelli says, “The issues that pop up (pun intended) with a drain stopper are not a major repair and typically can be replaced at a minimal cost.”

Pop-up Assembly Stoppers

The most common type of sink stopper is called a pop-up drain assembly. This design is easily identified; simply look for a pull rod on the back of the faucet. Beneath the countertop, that rod connects to another, horizontal rod that terminates in a ball joint in the drain tailpiece. The ball joint is secured in place, but still loose enough to serve as a pivot point.

The bottom of the drain stopper slides into the drain tailpiece, where it connects to the end of the pivot rod’s ball joint. Since the stopper is connected to the pivot rod, which is connected to the faucet rod, raising the faucet rod adjusts the stopper, allowing it to seal or open the drain.

That may sound complex, but the mechanics are fairly easy to understand when you see it in person. The trick with pop-ups is understanding that all the real work is done under the sink.

“Lavatory pop-ups come apart from the tailpiece,” says Beau Means. “Remove the nut from the side of the tailpiece and pull the pop-up free from the lever assembly that connects to the pull-rod and protrudes from the top of the lavatory faucet.”

How to Remove and Fix Pop-up Assembly Stoppers

Stephen Venturelli suggests a simple fix if there’s a drip or leak at the ball joint: using pliers to tighten up the nut connecting the assembly. It’s also possible to tighten or adjust the points where the rods connect to each other or the stopper.

But if any of those parts is damaged, Venturelli recommends purchasing a completely new assembly rather than trying to replace individual rods, clips or connecting parts. “The cost and ease of installation make it cost and time-efficient,” he says.

The worst-case scenario is that the entire pop-up has rusted. In that case, says Venturelli, “You will need to cut out the existing pop-up with a metal blade power/manual hacksaw. Clean up all surfaces before installing [the] new strainer and gaskets. Use channel lock style pliers to tighten the nut and squeeze gaskets tight to ensure no leaks. Connect to existing trap and again tighten nuts with pliers.”

Lift and Turn Stoppers

Lift and turn stoppers don’t have an assembly beneath the counter. Instead, they work by incorporating a metal ridge inside the drain flange. Raising the stopper and giving it a partial turn rests the stopper stem on that ridge, where it acts as a sort of shelf, holding the stopper up and allowing water drain freely.

How to Remove and Fix Lift and Turn Stoppers

According to Venturelli, “All these assemblies have very easy installation instructions which I believe a novice handy person can accomplish.”

You can typically remedy minor leaks at the drain washer by simply tightening the nut on the underside of the sink. If the stopper stem has broken and won’t stay in place, you must install a new drain stopper. To do that, you’ll fully loosen the nut beneath the sink, and remove the drain stopper, flange, and tail. Install the new tailpiece and drain flange, then tighten everything back together.

Flip Top Stoppers

This design uses a circular inset disc on the stopper top. Hinged in the center, it functions like a butterfly valve on a carburetor, rotating to a 90-degree angle, allowing water to flow through.

How to Remove and Fix Flip Top Stoppers

Flip top stoppers develop issues when the gasket that helps create a seal wears out, or when the hinge is damaged in some way (often by a dropped object). In both instances, the easiest solution is usually to replace the entire assembly.

Replacing a flip top stopper is similar to repairing a lift and turn-style stopper. Working from beneath, loosen the nut, then remove the drain stopper, flange, and tailpiece. Install the new tailpiece and flange, and tighten until leak-free.

About the Experts

Beau Means is a master plumber with nearly 35 years of experience. Formerly the chief plumbing inspector for Wichita/Sedgwick County, Means is general manager of Benjamin Franklin Plumbing in Wichita, Kansas and chairman of the local plumbing board.

Stephen Venturelli has been a licensed master plumber in Massachusetts for 43 years and is currently the plumbing instructor for At Leisure Contractor Licensing.

The post How To Remove a Stopper From the Bathroom Sink appeared first on Family Handyman.

Whether you’re simply fascinated by the remodel or would love to get some bathroom decor trend inspiration as you tackle your own project, you’ll find these stunning pictures of Gaines’ castle bathrooms enlightening. If that wasn’t enough, Gaines also gave the castle’s laundry room a major glow-up by remodeling it.

How Joanna and Chip Gaines Renovated the Castle Bathrooms and Laundry Rooms

Ready to be wowed by Joanna and Chip Gaines’ incredible renovation of the castle’s bathrooms and laundry rooms? Let’s walk through how the couple took these spaces from outdated to outstanding.

Primary Bathroom

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First up is the castle’s primary bathroom. As you can see from the “before” image with dark wood trim and antiquated floors, this room came a long way. This bathroom features a glorious vintage-esque vanity and geometric marble tile that adds visual interest. Plus, a clawfoot tub adds a nostalgic, upscale vibe to the space.

The reworked primary bathroom also makes better use of the space, as it now accommodates a tub, shower, vanity and toilet room. We love how the primary bathroom maintains the castle’s original character as Gaines kept the antique windows intact.

Guest Bathroom

Gaines did it yet again with the guest bathroom! The before and after pictures are truly jaw-dropping. What started out as a spooky, unfinished room was transformed into a fully functional bathroom.

The guest bathroom features darker wood finishes which are a nod to the castle’s original interior style. The sconces which frame the bathroom mirror are an excellent addition, as well as the crown modeling which adds elegance to the room. The walk-in shower is another great addition that guests are sure to appreciate while visiting. Overall, this space reveals just how well neutrals can work in a bathroom.

Hall Bathroom

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Next up is the hall bathroom. Earth tones are gaining momentum right now, and using one in your bathroom is an excellent way to experiment with the color. The green custom wainscoting is the central focus of this space. In addition, the geometric mosaic tile on the floor pulls your attention. That’s not the only place tile is used in this bathroom: There’s also tile up to the crown molding. This unexpected touch demonstrates just how wise taking design risks can be.

Powder Bathroom on First Floor

The first-floor powder room the Gaines renovated reveals how you can make a closet so much more with some creativity. This bathroom started out as a closet but evolved into a vintage-inspired bathroom. The vintage-inspired tiles on the floor are a nod to the home’s history, and artful touches such as a candle, wall decor and plants bring the space into this century.

As you walk through the home, you’ll begin to notice that certain elements you first see in the powder room on the first floor appear throughout. This adds a feeling of cohesiveness that makes the entire home feel highly intentional and well-curated. All of the bathrooms have the same metal finish and a similar overall vibe.

Laundry Room

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We don’t even recognize this room in the before picture! Gaines took this basement into the 21st century by transforming it into a functional, visually pleasing laundry room. The satin-finish paint used on the trim, cabinets and paneling makes the room feel cohesive and contrasts with the dark tile flooring. Plus, the wicker and wood add some much-needed texture.

The post Joanna Gaines’ Castle Bathroom and Laundry Room Makeover Is Insanely Gorgeous appeared first on Family Handyman.

Rust is a compound known as ferric oxide or iron oxide. It forms when iron combines with oxygen in the presence of water.

Where the oxygen and water came from on Mars to turn the iron-rich surface rusty is a question scientists haven’t determined. But on Earth, there’s no mystery. Oxygen is abundant in the atmosphere, and so is water. So there’s no shortage of rust, especially in bathrooms.

But why do rust stains show up on even non-metallic surfaces in the bathroom? Because iron is present in most water supplies. When water evaporates on a surface, it leaves a film of iron that quickly oxidizes to form a tenacious reddish-brown rust.

We checked with Elizabeth Shields, operations manager of Super Cleaning Service Louisville, for tips on removing rust stains from bathroom surfaces and fixtures. She recommended several acidic cleaners weak enough to do the job safely. She also suggested a cleaning method involving aluminum foil that sounds like it wouldn’t work, but actually does.

Scrub With Lemon Juice and Salt

You’ll need:

• Lemon juice;
• Table salt;
• A sponge or soft brush.

If a juice or condiment is sour or tangy, it’s probably acidic, and few juices are more sour than lemon juice. It contains citric acid, which is strong enough to cut through rust while still safe to use on most materials. Add salt as an abrasive, and you have one of the most widely used rust cutters.

“Squeeze lemon juice over the rusted area and sprinkle salt,” Shields says. “Let it sit for an hour, then scrub with a sponge or soft brush.”

She recommends this treatment particularly for porcelain tiles and bathroom fixtures like toilets, bathtubs and sinks. Salt is corrosive enough to damage metal, though, so you’ll need something else for faucets, towel racks and curtain rods.

Clean Stainless Steel With Aluminum Foil

You’ll need:

• Aluminum foil;
• Clean water.

“My favorite hack,” says Shields, “is grabbing some aluminum foil, giving it a crumple so it forms a ball, and dipping it in water. This helps it glide over the stainless steel without scratching it up. Here are a few tips to remove rust from stainless steel.

“Now with the damp foil ball, scrub the rust using gentle circular motions. You’ll start to see the rust lift away. Once the rust is gone, give the area a rinse with clean water and pat it dry with a cloth.”

This method works because the oxygen atoms in iron oxide are electrically charged, and they’re more strongly attracted to aluminum than iron. Once the oxygen atoms are stripped away, the iron that remains is easy to remove.

Aluminum doesn’t rust, but it does form a powdery film of aluminum oxide that washes right off when you’re done.

Use Bar Keepers Friend on Fiberglass

You’ll need:

• Bar Keepers Friend;
• A soft cloth or sponge;
• Clean water.

Bar Keepers Friend is a scouring powder that combines oxalic acid, a well-known rust-cutting cleaner, with feldspar, a mild abrasive. Shields recommends it for removing rust stains from fiberglass.

Here’s what to do, according to Shields:

“Sprinkle or squeeze a small amount of Bar Keepers Friend powder or liquid directly onto the rust stains. Be precise in applying it only to the rusted areas. Let it sit for a few minutes to allow the cleaning agents in the product to work on breaking down the rust.

“Scrub in circular or back-and-forth motions with a soft cloth or sponge. Rinse the area thoroughly with clean water, making sure you’ve banished all traces of the cleaning product.”

Remove Rust With Hydrogen Peroxide

You’ll need:

• Household strength (3%) hydrogen peroxide;
• Paper towels or or soft cloth;
• A sponge;
• Clean water.

The hydrogen peroxide in your medicine cabinet has a pH between three and six. That makes it just slightly acidic, but still strong enough to dissolve rust if you give it enough time. Shields recommends this method for cleaning acrylic, which can be damaged by stronger acids or too much scrubbing.

“Pour a small amount of hydrogen peroxide into a container,” she says. “Dip your cloth or paper towel until it’s thoroughly saturated but not dripping. Carefully place the saturated cloth directly onto the rust stain. It should cover the entire rust stain area. Leave the cloth in place for a few hours or even overnight.”

Once you notice the rust dissolving, she says “use a soft cloth or sponge to gently scrub the rusted area. The rust should come off relatively easily. Rinse with clean water and dry with a clean cloth.”

Soak Small Rusty Metal Parts in Coke

This tip comes from Josh Rudin, who owns and operates ASAP Restoration LLC in Phoenix, Arizona.

You’ll need:

• Coca-Cola;
• A bowl or jar.

“It sounds crazy, but this tasty magic beverage can also be a powerful cleaning agent, when used correctly,” Rudin says. “Coca-Cola is especially good at removing rust stains from metal materials, but it can work on a variety of surfaces too.”

Coca-Cola and beverages like it work because they contain phosphoric acid. Fill a jar or bowl with fresh Coke, drop in rusty metal parts and retrieve them when the rust vanishes, which can take a few hours to a day or two.

Repurpose Resin Bed Cleaner

You’ll need:

• Resin bed cleaner;
• A foam brush;
• Clean water.

If you have a water softener, it probably has a resin bed, a collection of thousands of tiny plastic beads that separate rust and other minerals from the water by ionic attraction.

You must clean this periodically by flushing resin bed cleaner through the system. The cleaner also works on rust in your bathroom. Some common products are Rust Out and Res Care.

Apply the cleaner to the rust with a foam brush. It dissolves rust quickly — in most cases, in only a few minutes — and you simply rinse it off with water. Because no scrubbing is involved, this method is safe for porcelain, acrylic, fiberglass and any other material that can be scratched or damaged.

The post How To Remove Rust Stains From Your Bathroom appeared first on Family Handyman.

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Japanese Bathrooms

Japan’s design influence has created some major trends in bathroom design, especially when combined with the Scandi style (a combination known as “Japandi”). 

Interior designer Artem Kropovinsky of Arsight says Japanese-style bathrooms are “marked by an economy of means, with stone and wood as the natural resources.” Japanese style is usually minimal, but part of its aesthetic appeal is the marriage of form and function, using the finest quality craftsmanship available.

“The main quality of such sites is peacefulness and cleanliness,” says Kropovinsky. These elements make the Japanese style a natural choice for a bathroom.

Pros

• Minimalist functionality promotes a spa-like serenity.

Cons

• Japanese-style bathrooms are costly due to the quality of materials and craftsmanship required to create the style faithfully.
• You may or may not have space — or will incur steep costs to relocate plumbing — for installing a Japanese soaking tub, which is one of the style’s main draws.

Organic Modern

According to Lovato, organic modern is another increasingly popular bathroom design style. Organic modern blends natural elements with sleek and modern design, making it a good fit in many different eras of homes. 

Lovato says the style is marked by warm paint colors and wood tones, giving off an inviting feel. That warmth is accentuated by the perfect imperfection of natural stone countertops and handmade tiles — Zellige tile is particularly hot in that department. Brass fixtures and hardware are a popular pairing with the warm-toned palette.

Pros

• This style appeals to humans’ biophilic connections — the desire to connect with the outside, natural world. Though the style is trending, it has a “timeless contemporary appeal,” Lovato says, which means you won’t necessarily need a redo in just a few years.
• Lovato says the palette is full of “safe color choices,” making decisions easier for the risk-averse.
• It imparts a serene atmosphere.

Cons

• Organic materials can be expensive and take more time to maintain.
• Some of the materials can be fragile (especially some tiles, which can also be difficult to install) or high-maintenance (some natural stones).

Scandinavian Minimalism

Scandinavian style is still the hottest classic around. Kropovinsky says the style’s hallmarks include clean, plain lines, neutral shades and practical construction. Think blonde woods, white or pale paint, and simple furnishings and fixtures. It should almost feel like it’s not even there.

Pro

• This classic chic can help enlarge small rooms.
• Light, airy palettes, an emphasis on natural light and a lack of clutter will keep a smaller space feeling roomy.

Con

• What about people with … stuff? Kropovinsky says the minimalistic style — which may eschew cabinetry for open shelving, among other details — may be too harsh or impractical for some lifestyles.

Rustic Farmhouse

Popularized by Chip and Joanna Gaines, rustic farmhouse styles are still popping up in bathrooms from coast to coast. Kropovinsky says the style features natural woods, vintage details (clawfoot tub, classic black-and-white mini hex tile, décor) and a notably welcoming warmth.

Pros

• The style is welcoming, Kropovinsky says, calling it “cozy and friendly.”
• It features easy color palettes: usually wood, black, white and gray.
• It can also feature a classic “pop of color” accent.
• It fits many eras of homes naturally.

Cons

• The style’s been kicking around for a while, so it may not have much more time in the sun.
• It’s easy to get carried away: Kropovinsky says this style may get too thematic or kitschy without some aesthetic reins.

Modern Coastal

Hot on the heels of trends like cottagecore came the “modern coastal” trend, which is something of a modern update on the kitschier “seashells by the seashore” bathroom themes of the ’80s. Lovato defines modern coastal style based on characteristics such as blue-and-white color palettes, nautical elements, natural light, seagrass, natural woods (think driftwood) and brass or nickel hardware.

Pros

• Lovato says this style creates a relaxing, nature-forward environment.
• Blue is a perennial favorite color that feels right at home in watery environments.
• Material selections will feel intuitive.
• Martha Stewart fans will feel right at home.

Cons

• Lovato wonders about the longevity of the trend: Will you be ready for a refresh before your budget is?
• It doesn’t transition particularly well. Lovato says it can be difficult to incorporate other trends into it.

Moody Traditional

Some interior design clients are moving away from the stark all-white or neutral bathroom, instead opting for something on the darker side. Lovato says this trend typically features dark, earthy color palettes, especially in the paint, rustic wood, natural stone countertops and tiles, more ornate and traditional detailing on the furnishings, wood beadboard paneling, and black or brass hardware.

Pros

• Lovato says the moody take manages to feel both unique and classic after the light, bright, minimal feels of past years. It is a surprise without the scare of a big design risk.
• The look is timeless, charming, and elegant, which is great for all sizes of bathrooms and many eras of homes today.

Cons

• Dark colors can make a room feel smaller, so be prepared for the shift in perspective (and plan for great lighting!).
• Traditional elements can be harder to clean and maintain. Think about how much toothbrush scrubbing you want to do on scrollwork or beadboard, for example.

Eclectic and Playful

Lovato has also noticed that people in general are having more fun with their bathrooms. Eclectically styled bathrooms are marked by bold and bright paint colors, unique patterned tiles and colorful wallpaper. As its name implies, the eclectic trend features elements from various styles and eras and may feature a mishmash of vintage fixtures and other mismatched metals and hardware.

Pros

• Creating a fun, unique, and personalized space can’t be beat.
• You’ll have a guaranteed wow factor in your home.
• Taking a design risk feels easier in a smaller space and smaller spaces can handle more color and pattern than you may initially expect.

Cons

• It can be hard to know when to say when on design combinations.
• Mixing patterns, texture, and eras takes a concerted effort to edit: It can’t be a total free-for-all or it won’t look right.
• This style isn’t necessarily built for resale value (if that is a concern or priority).

Midcentury Modern

Midcentury modern style has stuck around for a reason. If you have a midcentury home, there are naturally some features you want to keep around. Maybe you have some original bombproof tile still around, or a few uniquely colored fixtures. Maybe you just want your bathroom design to stay in keeping with the era of the house. That all makes good sense. Whatever the specific reasons, the angular, colorful and stylish aspects of midcentury modern endure.

Midcentury modern bathrooms are marked by trademarks like walnut and/or white oak slab cabinets, natural stone, sleek fixtures, a blend of geometric and organic tile, chrome and brass hardware and bold colors. Lovato lists deep blues, vibrant yellows or rich greens as the midcentury modern mainstays, but notes that pink or peach can also work.

Pros

• This now-classic design style will stand the test of time.
• It’s functional and flexible in design.
• The aesthetic is clean overall, even when it features patterns or color.

Cons

• Lovato says midcentury elements and fixtures can be more expensive. Especially if you try to salvage tile or fixtures — the demand is still there. Luckily there are also some great dupes on the market.
• The design might feel out of place unless your home is also a midcentury house, Lovato says. Mix and match as necessary to make it work.

Art Deco Glam

The excess of the 1920s is back in the form of big Gatsby style, a direct contrast to the minimalism of recent years. Kropovinsky says Art Deco Glam is characterized by dramatic geometric patterns, vivid colors and glamorous luxury.

Metallics, bold palettes, foil wallpapers, intricate designs, glossy paint finishes: Art Deco isn’t afraid of anything.

Pros

• Kropovinsky calls it a “smart and articulated” style.
• A fresh perspective of maximalism after so many years of quiet.
• A small bathroom is an easy place to do overboard glam without getting tired of it.

Cons

• It’s also easy to go overboard.
• Finishes can be fragile and a pain to clean.
• Rein in your options and focus on a few elements or risk an overwhelming tiny space.

About the Experts

Lindsay Boudreaux designs high-end homes in Northern Virginia and the Washington D.C. area through her firm Shotgun Double Interior Design. She is Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) certified.

Artem Kropovinsky, an award-winning interior designer, founded New York-based Arsight. The studio’s work has been featured in The New York Times and other media.

Ariana Lovato is the owner and principal designer of California-based Honeycomb Home Design. She is also a realtor and founded Honeycomb Gives Back, a nonprofit that does room makeovers for children with special needs.

The post 9 Popular Bathroom Styles for Your Home appeared first on Family Handyman.

Of course, there’s always the possibility of a roof leak.

“I had a customer call just yesterday and explain that their can light in the ceiling was filling up with water after it rained recently,” says Korey Gregory of ASAP Restoration. “Oddly enough this happens quite commonly.

“One of the reasons is because the light fixtures, fans, vents and skylights are almost always at the lowest point. If a property has a leak in the roof or if elevated appliances such as HVAC units start to leak, gravity does the rest of the work and brings the water pooling into these spots.”

I’ve seen this in my own bathroom. After a heavy rain, a mysterious pool of water collected in the middle of the floor. I couldn’t figure out the source until I saw water dripping from the bottom of a light fixture dome. I guess that means our next project is to repair the leak.

Gregory is among the experts I asked to explain what causes these water issues, and how to deal with them.

About the Experts

Drew Mansur, a self-described “serial renovator,” co-founded TileCloud, Australia’s leading online tile outlet. He has a degree in construction management.

Korey Gregory is the superintendent for ASAP Restoration, LLC, based in Phoenix, Arizona.  He’s a licensed contractor with more than 17 years experience.

Joseph Wade is vice president of operations for Benjamin Franklin Plumbing.

What Causes Water Dripping From Bathroom Fan?

Our experts cite five reasons:

• Condensation: This is the most common reason. When warm, moist air from your shower meets the cooler air in the ductwork of your fan, condensation forms. This water accumulates and eventually drips back down through the fan. Properly installed ducts are usually sloped back to the fan to allow water to drip out rather than collecting and pooling inside.
• Underused fan: If the duct is properly insulated, the drip problem may be because you aren’t using your fan often enough. Some warm air will still escape into the ducting whether the fans runs or not. On really cold days, that warm air will condense inside the ducting, especially if you never run the fan to dry it out.
• Blocked or inadequate venting: The vent leading outside may be blocked or the wrong size. This can cause the moist air to back up and condense within the duct or fan housing.
• Plumbing or roof leaks: If you have water pipes in the attic, one may have sprung a leak, spraying water onto the duct or the fan itself.
• Improper installation: “If your fan is not installed correctly,” says Wade, “water can accumulate and possibly lead to dripping.” This would include using the wrong size ducts, failing to insulate them, or simply putting the fan in the wrong place. “If your bathroom fan is directly over your shower or tub, and you are experiencing excessive leakage from your fan, you might want to move it,” Wade says.

How To Fix a Dripping Bathroom Vent

Tools and materials

• Stepladder;
• Duct insulation;
• Zip ties or aluminum tape;
• Roof repair supplies.

1. Inspect the fan and the vent opening: Get on a stepladder, remove the fan cover and look at your damper flap just behind the fan. It channels airflow and prevents water from moving upward into your ducts. If it doesn’t spin readily when your push in it, it may need to be replaced. The vent cover on your roof could also be the issue. It could have suffered weather-related damage that prevents it from expelling air and keeping water out. Replace it, if necessary.
2. Update the insulation: Head into the attic and check the insulation on the ducts. You may find it simply needs to be refastened. If you see your duct isn’t insulated at all, pick up duct insulation at the home center. Use zip ties or aluminum tape to fasten the insulation.
3. Fix the roof: If you suspect a roof leak, determine where the water is coming from. “Typically, there’s a small leak under a roofing tile or the like,” Gregory says. “But frequently water can also come from the air conditioner unit drip line. Plug the leak, fix the roof and then address the water damage and potential mold issues that come with soaked drywall.”

How much does it cost to fix a leaking bathroom fan?

That depends on what’s wrong.

• If you need to replace the damper, it will cost about $15 for the part, plus $150 an hour for labor if you have to call a pro to retrofit it. Expect to pay about the same to replace a damaged roof vent.
• If the situation calls for more duct insulation, it’s DIY-able. You can buy a 15-foot roll for less than $20, and a roll of aluminum tape  for about $20.

How To Prevent a Bathroom Exhaust Fan From Dripping Water

Install a condensation trap

“If you can’t change the amount of moisture in the bathroom,” says Mansur, “you can at least stop it from dripping down. Install a condensation trap or a drip loop in the ductwork to catch condensation before it drips down.”

Lubricate the damper

Spray a little WD-40 on the damper mechanism whenever you clean the fan. Do this every six to 12 months, depending on how often you use the fan.

Maintain the insulation

Check the insulation on the ductwork periodically and replace any that fell off or degraded.

Upgrade your bathroom fan

If your bathroom fan is old or not powerful enough for the size of your bathroom, upgrade to a more efficient model.

“Bathroom fans should be replaced every five to 10 years, as older ventilation fans are less effective at moving moisture out of the bathroom,” Wade says. Mansur adds you can even get some with built-in humidity sensors that automatically turn on when moisture levels are high.

The post Why Is Water Dripping from My Bathroom Fan? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Long Shower Niche

A longer shower niche like this one from @beckmannhouse offers more room for bottles and other shower supplies.

Notice how the shape of it mimics the horizontal window above to create nice cohesion. Using the same tile on the shower wall and the niche allows a subtle transition, so the niche doesn’t disrupt the beautiful wall of blue.

Double Shower Niche

With a tub and shower combination, shampoo bottles are often clumsily stored on the bathtub ledge, where they often fall over. This tub and shower from @ventura_interiordesign features two niches at the far end, opposite the shower head.

A lot of math and precision went into making the niches line up perfectly with the penny tile pattern, but the seamless results were well worth the effort!

Arched Shower Niche

We love a green shower moment, and this niche from @kimberly.mcgowan.interiors is stunning. The elegant arched shape on the top of the niche repeats in the wall tile, and the square mosaic tile inside the niche creates contrast.

Using solid stone for the base of the niche and the shelf makes it easier to clean, eliminating grout lines that trap water and soap scum.

Vertical Shower Niche

This tall, vertical layout is a fresh take on the shower niche, designed by @styleitwithjackie and photographed by @arnalphotography.

This is a good choice for a narrow shower with limited wall space. The four shelves provide plenty of storage, and the pops of black hexagonal tile tie in beautifully with the black fixtures.

Prefab Shower Niche

For DIYers, a prefab shower niche might be the way to go because it doesn’t require intricate tile work.

The black shower niche seen here from @biancareino is a solid stainless steel insert by Rubinet that’s easy to install. Simply slip it in to a pre-framed space in your shower, and add silicone caulk all around the edge. Conveniently, it comes with two adjustable shelves.

Large Shower Niche

This shower niche from @tylerinteriorsdesign is large and in charge — almost reaching from floor to ceiling!

Even the most serious bath product fanatic would have plenty of space to hold all their bottles on the three spacious shelves. The marble herringbone tile inside offers a soft contrast, making the niche distinct from the rest of the shower but not too jarring.

@kriciapalmer333 Great place to hide a shower niche! #bathroomremodel #bathroomdecor #remodeling #remodelingideas ♬ original sound – Kricia Palmer MD, ASID

Hidden Shower Niche

Here’s a great solution if you don’t like the sight of mismatched bottles in your shower.

As you can see in this video from @kriciapalmer333, the shower niche sits behind the short half-wall. So when you walk into the bathroom, you can’t even see it. This strategy gives the space an overall tidy look.

@sellingthesuburbs #PepsiApplePieChallenge here is what we used to light our shower niche #showerniche #schlutersystems #playandplugit #howto #bathroominspo #forthehome #hereiswhatgonnado #showerideas #showergoals #tileshop #marble #niche ♬ FEEL THE GROOVE – Queens Road, Fabian Graetz

Lighted Shower Niche

Light your shower niche with LED strip lighting to add soft ambiance to your showering experience.

Installation is simple but needs to be part of the rough-in process, not added on to an existing shower. As explained in the video from @sellingthesuburbs, the LED light requires a special track so it’s flush with the tile, and your niche will need low voltage wiring.

@rrservicestx This one is for the girls! Ladies, take a look at this amazing built in niche that will make shaving way easier!! Let us know today if you would like this on your next shower remodel 💛🪒 #showerniche #bathroomremodel #shaving #tiling #contracting ♬ The Good Part – AJR

Shaving Niche

The clever design of this shower from @rrservicestx includes four niches arranged vertically.

The small bottom niche helps with shaving. You can use it to store your razor, and it’s the perfect place to balance your foot when showering. And unlike a bench, a niche won’t take up any floor space in your shower layout.

@athomewith__tanzin #stitch with @Tiffany Krylov A niche is great, but a full width niche is even better! #building #Aussiehomes #aussiebuild #bathroomtips #bathroomdesign #fyp #newbuild #newbuildaustralia ♬ Love You So – The King Khan & BBQ Show

Full-Length Niche

The niche in this large double shower stretches along the entire length of the wall. According to @athomewith__tanzin, a large niche like this looks better, is easier to install and clean and holds more products.

Stick with the same shower tile when designing a niche of this size. That way it doesn’t interrupt the flow of the tile by visually cutting the shower wall in half.

The post 10 Shower Niche Ideas for Your Bathroom appeared first on Family Handyman.

Have you found yourself not turning on your bathroom exhaust fan because it’s too loud? Or maybe it’s too old and just stopped running?

Bathroom fans have come a long way in efficiency, using much less energy than before. Some even claim to be noiseless. Replacing your bathroom fan isn’t complicated. It can be one-afternoon DIY project that doesn’t require extensive experience with drywall or electrical wiring.

By selecting a fan that fits the same dimensions as your old one, you won’t need to cut into the drywall, connect any ductwork in your attic or climb onto the roof to cut a hole for the air to escape.

Safety considerations

Turn off electricity at the main breaker box. Ensure you open your ladder fully and place it on stable ground. Wear safety glasses. And be ready for anything. You might be surprised what comes out of the ceiling when removing a fan that has been in place for years.

What size bathroom fan do I need?

When selecting your new fan, choose one that will fit in the same size hole as your old one. Also ensure the fan generates the appropriate air flow for the size of your bathroom.

Airflow is measured by CFM (cubic feet per minute).  Generally, a 50 CFM fan will work for a small bathroom; larger ones need at least 100 CFM.

To calculate CFM for your bathroom, measure the length, width and height of the bathroom. Use this formula: Length times width times height times (.13) = CFM. Round up the result to the nearest ten.

Before you begin, be sure you can fully access the ceiling fan housing.

Remove the bathroom fan cover

Remove the old fan cover. Use an electrical tester to confirm the power is off and electricity is not live at the connection point.  You’d be surprised how many breaker boxes aren’t labeled correctly.

Separate the motor from the housing and the duct from the fan

When you get the fan out of the ceiling, you’ll notice a housing protecting the motor. Locate the screws holding the housing in place, then remove them. Gently pull the motor out of the housing, being careful not to yank on the wiring. Disconnect the wiring and separate it from the motor.

You will also find a duct connected to the fan. Gently separate it. You’ll use this ducting with your new fan, so don’t damage it.

Reuse existing housing system or install new?

Determine if you can use the old housing or if you’ll have to install the housing that came with new fan. If the existing housing is the same size as the model you purchased, and the housing and duct work are free of water damage and in good working order, go ahead and use it. Just swap out the old electrical components; they should snap in and out of the old housing.

You may also need a different bracket or hanging mechanism. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for specific details on how to attach the new fan. They’re all slightly different, yet equally simple.

If the old fan housing is attached with mounting brackets, you may have to cut out the brackets with a reciprocating or oscillating saw. Avoid cutting through any wiring, ductwork or drywall.

Install securely as directed. If not done properly, the fan will remain loose and eventually fall out.

Connect air exhaust duct to fan

Connect the existing air exhaust duct to the new fan. If it doesn’t fit snuggly, secure with zip ties.

Connect electric wires

When connecting the wires, follow the colors: white to white, black to black and green (ground) to green.  Some new fans come with easy to connect clips, known as wire connectors. If your fan didn’t come with them, purchase them separately or use a more traditional wire nut.

Secure the fan

Tucking your air exhaust duct first, slip the fan into place, connecting it to the hanging system or brackets. Some fans clip into place; others require a screw.

Test the electric connection

Before you attach the cover, turn the electricity back on at the breaker and turn on the fan to ensure it works properly.

If your fan doesn’t work, be sure to turn off the power at the breaker before you start troubleshooting.

Attach the fan cover

Attach cover, insuring it sits flush to the ceiling and perpendicular to your bathroom wall. The human eye easily picks up when something is crooked or off kilter.

FAQs

How many years will a bathroom fan last?

Manufacturers estimate around ten years. If yours is older than that, be ready for it to go out, or replace it the next time you repaint or remodel the bathroom.

Is it bad to leave a bathroom fan on all night?

Yes. A bathroom exhaust fan can overheat if you use it excessively.

What happens if a bathroom fan isn’t powerful enough?

An exhaust fan must be strong enough to cycle fresh air into the bathroom and draw moist air out. Fans that are too small can’t properly cycle air out or remove moisture. Trapped moisture can warp cabinetry, fog mirrors and encourage black mold or mildew growth. That’s why it’s important to properly calculate the square footage of your bathroom and install a fan that’s the right size for it.

What happens if a bathroom fan is too powerful?

It can make the bathroom cold and noisy.

The post How To Replace a Bathroom Exhaust Fan appeared first on Family Handyman.

Have you ever had a toilet in your home you dreaded sitting on because of the annoying wobble? Well, it’s time to finally fix it. The wobble can cause additional issues if left unaddressed.

Several things could cause a toilet to wobble — loose bolts, an uneven or rotting floor, or a damaged toilet flange. Some people assume they need to replace the toilet, when it usually requires a quick fix any DIYer can handle.

The toilet I worked on wobbled because of loose bolts. All I did was remove the plastic caps, grab a wrench and gently tighten the nuts on the bolts. This is pretty common. Over time, the bolts that secure the toilet to the floor come loose .

When to call a pro

If you can’t get your toilet to stop wobbling after following these steps, or discover more difficult plumbing issues you don’t feel comfortable DIY-ing — say, spongy flooring or a leaky toilet flange —  contact a professional plumber or general contractor.

Tighten the toilet bolts

This should be first thing to try. Here’s how to do it:

• Take a putty knife and pry off the plastic caps that cover the two bolts at the base of the toilet.
• Check if the bolts are loose. If so, tighten them evenly with a wrench. Be careful not to over-tighten them, which can crack the toilet.
• If this eliminates the wobble, replace the plastic caps and carry on. Keep an eye out for any water leaking from the toilet base after a dozen flushes or so. If you do have a leaking toilet, check the wax ring and flange.

Shim the toilet

Uneven floors can cause toilet wobbles. Shims eliminate the unevenness. Here’s how to add them:

• Cut through any caulk around the toilet base.
• Slide plastic or composite shims around the base until it sits firmly in place.
• Use a utility knife to cut away any exposed shim parts.
• For the next few weeks, keep an eye out for water leaking from the base. Old wax rings can crack if you shim a toilet too high.

Don’t go back and caulk your toilet to the floor until you’re certain the wax ring seal isn’t leaking.

Remove the toilet

If the toilet is still rocking or water leaks from your adjustments, it’s time to remove the toilet to see what’s going on.

If water is leaking, the wax ring probably was damaged. If the toilet is still rocking, it could be from debris under it, loose pipes or a broken toilet flange.

To remove the toilet:

• Turn off the water supply.
• Flush the toilet to empty the tank and bowl, then disconnect the water supply line. Have rags handy for any residual water that may drip out.
• Unscrew the closet bolts and lift the toilet straight up off the flange. Place some rags or cardboard out of the way to set the toilet on. Shove a few rags into the flange to keep sewer gas out of the bathroom.
• Scrape off the old wax ring with a putty knife, and inspect the toilet flange, especially the slots that hold the closet bolts.
  • If the toilet flange and pipe are sturdy and the closet bolt slots are in good condition, thoroughly clean the floor under the toilet and make sure there are no chunks of caulk or grout making the toilet rock. If all seems in good order, reinstall the toilet with a new wax ring and closet bolts.
  • If the flange and pipes are in good shape but the closet bolt slots are broken or deformed, install a flange repair ring that works with the style of your flange. Then reinstall the toilet using a new wax ring and closet bolts.
  • Test the toilet for stability by sitting on it and rocking gently from side to side. If it feels secure and doesn’t wobble, you’re good to go.
  • If the flange or pipes are loose, cracked or visibly broken, or you have a rotted floor under the toilet, it’s a more complex problem. Better to leave this repair to the pros.

FAQs

When replacing a toilet, what parts can’t be reused?
The wax ring. Always buy a new one.

Is it worth it to replace an old toilet?
Absolutely. Newer toilets are more water-efficient, saving you money. They’re also a more environmentally friendly. New toilet designs often need less cleaning and look nicer.

How long does a toilet wax ring last?
Indefinitely. Wax, unlike rubber, doesn’t deteriorate. Unless there’s another problem, the toilet wax ring won’t spring a leak on its own.

The post How To Fix a Wobbly Toilet appeared first on Family Handyman.

A bathroom vanity is probably something you never considered making yourself. Allow me to help you change that perspective.

As I approached this project for a DIY bathroom vanity, I purposely designed it with clean lines and simple joints. Ultimately, I wanted a vanity that would fit well in any bathroom and compliment any style. And it’s really not that difficult to build. The hardest part will be reading a tape measure for exacting measurements.

This vanity strategically hides all hardware so the whole thing looks like it’s floating. Follow my step-by-step instructions and insider tips so you can build this DIY bathroom vanity with confidence.

Project Overview

Cutting List

Overall dimensions: 49-in. W by 23-1/4-in. T by 18-in. D.

* – One long edge ripped at a 45-degree angle.

** – Cut both ends at a 45-degree angle.

Cut wood for top portion of vanity

Using a miter saw or circular, cut wood for the front face (A) and two side panels (B) for the upper part of the vanity. Refer to the Cutting List above.

Route “L” bracket channels

Lay the front (A) and side pieces (B) flat and in tandem to where they will connect. An inch up from the bottom of the upper section, mark where you will route a channel to install the “L” brackets. Leave a little wiggle room to easily install the “L” brackets.

Using a router with a 1/2-in. straight cut bit, set your depth to the thickness of your “L” bracket. Be careful not to take out too much depth. Your screws need enough wood to grab and do their job.

Build the top section of vanity

Using a speed square or a corner jig to ensure a solid 90-degree angle corner, glue and nail the front face (A) to the side panels (B).  Make sure the sections you routed for the “L” bracket line up from front to side panels. Once you put this together, you can’t go back in with the router.

Pro tip:  When gluing unstained wood, keep a wet rag on hand to wipe away any excess glue from the wood surface. When it comes time to stain the whole piece, you’ll be happy you did this. Dried glue will not allow stains to penetrate the surface, leaving you with a less-than-perfect finish.

Install the cleat and supports

To complete your square and provide rigidity to the upper section of your vanity, attach one of the two cleats (F) to the back of the vanity and install the cleat support (G) below it.

Install the top cleat (F) using pocket screws with the 45-degree ripped edge facing downward and flush with the back and top edges of the sides (B). Similarly, the cleat support (G) is attached flush to the back and bottom edge of the sides (B). These cleats (F), often referred to as French cleats, will serve as part of your hanging mechanism.

Install “L” brackets

Install “L” brackets with screws attaching the front panel (A) to the side panels (B). Be sure to check the length of the screw so they don’t protrude out the front (A) or side (B). You don’t want to ruin the outermost part of your vanity.

Install the gussets

Cut the 45-degree angles on either end of the gussets (H). In the top back corners of your box, install two gussets (H) between the sides (B) and the cleat (F). Install the remaining two on the bottom, front corners of the box, connecting the sides (B) to the front (A).

Ensure the case is square when installing these. Use wood glue and the appropriate length brad nails to secure them inside and outside the box.

The gussets (H) serve two purposes. They help the corners maintain their 90-degree angle and distribute the weight of the heavy bathroom countertop.

Pro tip:  No one will ever see the gussets (H) or the “L” brackets. But they’ll give the vanity longevity and ensure it can handle the weight of leaning and the pressure of pull and push with use.

Build the back and shelf

Now you’ve made that upper section, double-check your measurements for the width of the box and trim to back (C) and shelf (D) to that width. Wait until you put together the upper section to cut these pieces; sometimes they may be off by 1/16-in., and that will be noticeable.

Use wood glue, pre-drill, and countersink #8 by 1-1/2-in. screws from the underside of the shelf (D) up into the back (C).

Add brackets under lower shelf

To add even more support and strength to the lower shelf (D), I decided to add “L” brackets on the lower back side connecting the back panel (C) to the shelf (D). Again, they’re not visible.

To make them flush, route a channel the same as we did on the upper portion. This will bury the brackets and make them flush so they don’t impede when you install the bathroom vanity.

Install support straps

For more insurance with the connection from the upper square to the lower back panel, add metal support straps (G to C). Again, use a wood router to create a channel and ensure it’s flush once installed.

Cut and install dividers/support shelves

With a vanity of this length, we want to prevent the shelf from sagging over time. Therefore, we will install two dividers (E) that will also serve as support and prevent sagging.

Cut and install two center dividers. While doing this, I also placed a 1- by 4-ft. crossbar (J) from front to back over the divider for more strength and to give me more working space to install screws or nails. Notice how I installed them in a way that ensures they aren’t visible when the whole unit is in place.

Putty nail holes and apply stain conditioner

Now that the whole unit is put together, do a final prep for stain. Fill small nail holes with wood filler and ensure dried glue is not visible in seams and joints.

Once putty has dried, smooth all sections first with 150-grit, then 220-grit sandpaper.  Be sure to sand in the direction of the grain.

Prepare the exterior with a stain conditioner before applying stain. Apply conditioner according to the manufacturer’s instructions.  A wood conditioner will ensure the stain seeps into the wood grain evenly, giving you a higher-quality finish.

Be sure to do a test of your stain color on the actual wood you’re going to use, not just a sample piece of the same species.  Stains change color with species of wood. Even with different pieces of the same species, stain will take on different feels.  Avoid surprises and do a test at least a day before you begin the project.

Stain wood

Apply at least two coats of stain. In this case, I used two colors of stain. In general with stain, I prefer to brush on and wipe off with a cotton painter’s rag. Allow the stain to dry completely between coats.

The grain may bloat and rise, leaving a rough feel to the wood you nicely sanded. This is typical; just lightly sand again with 220 grit. You may have to do it again after the second coat and before you apply your sealer.

Apply sealer

Apply two or three coats of a sealer like polyurethane or lacquer with a quality paintbrush.  If you feel the grain is raised when dry, lightly sand back and apply another coat. Since the vanity is a high moisture area, consider a spar varnish.

Installation

The planning that goes into an open-style vanity is one of the more challenging parts of a build like this. This is because the goal is to conceal the plumbing inside the vanity’s upper box. To achieve this, it’s necessary to have an above-counter sink bowl. But it’s equally important to ensure the plumbing rough-in sits at the correct height for the needs of your bathroom.

When it comes time to install the vanity:

• Trim two or three inches off the loose cleat (F). This will allow you to move your vanity side to side before you secure it.
• Install the trimmed loose cleat (F) level on the wall so that its top point is 2-3/4-inches below where you would like the bathroom vanity height to be. Attach this to at least two studs. If it covers any roughed-in plumbing, cut off that portion before installing it.
• Hang the vanity so the cleat installed on the wall (F) and the cleat at the top of the vanity (F) marry. If the positioning is where you’d like it, mark and trim off any vanity components that interfere with the plumbing rough-in before moving on.
• Lock the vanity to the wall studs in at least two locations before installing your countertop and sink of choice.

FAQs

Is it cheaper to build or buy a bathroom vanity?

As you might expect, DIY is cheaper because you’re not paying for labor. Total cost with materials will be less than if you had it custom-built by a cabinet maker or contractor. A commissioned, custom-built vanity can cost you two to three times as much as a prefab vanity purchased from a retailer, because there are more costs involved in making and putting the vanity together.

What are the standard dimensions for a bathroom vanity?

Standard widths are 24-, 30-, 36-, 48-, 60- and 72-inches. Standard depth ranges from 17- to 24-inches. Most standard bathroom vanities are hung 30- to 34-inches high.

When deciding the dimensions of your vanity, take into consideration the height of your sink and fixtures you want to use, as well as the height of the people who will most be using it.  A vanity hung at 30-in. will be very uncomfortable for a tall person, just as a vanity hung at 34-in. may be too high for a shorter person. The benefit of a custom build is that you make the final choice.

What is the best wood for a bathroom vanity?

Choose a close-grained solid hardwood or plywood. Plywood is laminated, with the top layer the species called out — birch, cherry poplar, oak, teak or walnut. In any bathroom plywood, seal it well, and be sure all end grains are sealed or trimmed out so moisture doesn’t bloat or damage it. You can also look for a plywood specially treated to be water-resistant, but it’s usually much more expensive.

The post How To Build a Bathroom Vanity appeared first on Family Handyman.

As an interior designer, I love dual-purpose furniture, and I prefer to avoid the television becoming the focal point of any room. TVs typically take away from the beauty of a well-appointed space. But, having a TV that doubles as a beautiful mirror is favorable almost anywhere. And having one that’s waterproof is an even bigger bonus. 

What is the Sylvox bathroom TV mirror?

This gorgeous Sylvox mirror turns into a smart TV with the touch of a button. The clean lines of this frameless TV/mirror enhance the style of any room. The difference? The Sylvox Bathroom TV Mirror is certified safe for use in damp environments with an impressive Ingress Protection (IP) 66 water- and dust-resistant rating. This wall-mount bathroom TV mirror withstands temperatures from 30 to 104 degrees. Whether you’re using it in a dusty workshop, a steamy kitchen, a greenhouse or a shower, this waterproof TV is designed to withstand water, moisture and dust.

With all the features you would expect from a smart TV, the Sylvox Bathroom TV Mirror connects to your Wi-Fi and Bluetooth so you can access all your apps or mirror from a device. It runs on the Google system, so it’s compatible with Google Play, Google Assist voice remote and Chromecast. 

Not a Google household? No worries. You can also set it up without the Google functionality and still get all the great features this TV has to offer. The Sylvox comes pre-loaded with popular apps such as Netflix, Prime Video, Disney+ Hulu, Spotify, YouTube, Facebook and AccuWeather (plus many more). You’ll have fun exploring the content and connecting your favorite apps with the easy-to-use remote control. 

The best part about this smart TV is when it’s off, it’s a non-assuming sophisticated mirror instead of a bulky black box on the wall.

VIA MERCHANT

We Tried It

Sylvox Smart Bathroom TV Mirror

This waterproof TV and mirror in one can be mounted to a wall in your bathroom.

$559 at Amazon

Shop on Walmart

Product Features

This wall-mount bathroom TV mirror has all the connectivity you need with the easy-to-reach connectors that hang from the bottom of the set. The six connectors include a USB port, an RJ45 ethernet connector and an optical digital audio connector. Plus, it also has left and right audio output jacks, as well as an external antenna and HDMI connectors. The power cord is a generous 123 inches, so you’re in luck if your outlet is 10 feet away or less. 

The Sylvox Bathroom Mirror TV comes with an intuitive remote control as well as on-screen touch controls. The touch screen buttons are artfully imbedded in the mirror and barely visible (in a good way). Whether you choose the 24- or 32-inch set, you’ll have crystal clear 1920 x 1080 HD picture quality. 

If you like a steamy shower, you’ll appreciate the super bright picture and anti-fog feature. Plus, the waterproof remote comes with a mountable holder, so you don’t have to fish for it in the hot tub. Clean-up is easy; just use the included cleaning cloth to remove fingerprints and water spots without much effort or detergent. 

Sylvox Bathroom TV Mirrors are certified to be dust-tight and protected against powerful water jets, receiving an IP66 rating from the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC). The IEC requires products to be independently tested before they are granted an IP certification rating. 

How We Tested It

When I first laid eyes on the Sylvox Bathroom TV Mirror, I fell in love with the curved, clean lines and simplistic design. What a beauty! 

After unpacking the box, it only took nine minutes to install, thanks to the ingenious wall mount included in the package. Once we decided where to place the TV/mirror, we gathered up a level and a drill and marked the seven screw holes using the included wall bracket as a template. Next, we secured the bracket to the wall with the included fittings. Then, we simply lined up the frame hooks with the slots on the back of the unit and hung it up. Done!

Now, we were ready to connect our subscriptions. We used a Roku stick in the USB port, and connectivity took just 15 minutes. We flipped through the settings and played with the brightness adjustments and sound. The TV offers five sound modes. The unit has two built-in speakers that are fine for a bathroom or bedroom. And if the sound isn’t as robust as you prefer, you can always connect it to an external sound system or Bluetooth speakers. 

The picture is truly brilliant. It’s clear, crisp and bright with a wide viewing angle. I was a little surprised that the picture doesn’t fill the entire frame when in TV mode, there’s a small dark border around the top and sides of the image as well as a dark band at the bottom where the touchscreen buttons reside. I was pleasantly surprised that the reflective mirrored surface didn’t reflect the surroundings while watching TV. As promised, the Sylvox bathroom TV mirror had no issues with fogging up, although the environment we tested it in doesn’t get extremely steamy either. 

The connectors hang below the TV and can be tucked in the drywall to hide the wires for a wire-free look. If you’re not up for drilling a hole or fishing wires through the walls, the dangling wires are a little unsightly, but not a deal-breaker. I prefer this design because you don’t have to stand on your head with a flashlight and magnifying glass to find the right input for your device. The nice thing is, the design is adaptable to fit your needs, skills and devices.

Finally, I took a look in the mirror to see if there were any distortions or funhouse effects of a cheap mirror. In my opinion, this mirror was flawless.

Pros

• Smart TV and mirror in one
• Dust-tight and waterproof IP66-certified
• Fast and easy to install
• Detachable 10-foot power cord
• Waterproof remote control
• Touch screen controls
• Very aesthetically pleasing
• Wall mount bracket included
• 1-year warranty

Cons

• Wall mount only
• Viewing angle isn’t adjustable

FAQ

What is the mirror that turns into a TV in the bathroom?

Several electronics manufacturers are diving into the world of waterproof TVs. Sylvox is among these manufacturers and offers smart TVs for the bathroom that turn into a mirror when turned off. 

Is a smart bathroom mirror worth it?

Considering you’ll have a two-in-one dual-purpose decor piece, you can’t go wrong, especially if you’re someone who needs to save space or would like to be entertained while taking care of business or enjoying a leisurely bath. Since standard televisions aren’t rated for wet spaces, investing in a waterproof TV will keep you safe.  

Are mirror TVs any good?

After using the Sylvox Bathroom TV Mirror, I’m impressed with the picture quality, durability and smart features. Plus, the quality of the mirror is stellar with zero distortion. And what could be nicer than hiding the TV under the guise of a mirror to add sparkle to any room?

Product Comparison

The waterproof Sylvox Bathroom TV Mirror is available in 24-inch and 32-inch sizes. For anyone who wants a flush-mount TV, Sylvox is releasing an embedded wall model bathroom TV for a seamless look. Much like a built-in medicine cabinet, the mirror will be flush with the wall using this recessed mounting option. 

In comparison, the Haocrown 32-inch waterproof smart TV mirror that runs on the Android operating system sells for $272 more than the Sylvox. According to users, the Haocrown is not compatible with Google products.

Final Verdict

If you’re considering a waterproof bathroom TV mirror, the Sylvox is as stylish as they come. Design-wise, it’s stunning (the photos don’t do it justice). It’s very sleek and attractive. Whether it’s incognito as a mirror or your main source of entertainment, the frameless design looks oh-so-cool.

You’ll enjoy the easy set-up, smart features and pre-loaded apps that make connecting a breeze. The picture quality is superb, and the construction on the Sylvox feels durable and solid, thanks to the sturdy waterproof metal frame. The only downside to this bathroom TV mirror (in my opinion) is that it must be wall-mounted and can’t be angled or tilted. My advice is to make sure the height is right for your viewing pleasure when installing. 

I’ve never fallen in love with a TV before, at least not until now. If you want high style and a functional upgrade to your space, you’ll love the Sylvox Bathroom TV Mirror.

Where to Buy the Sylvox Bathroom TV Mirror 

VIA MERCHANT

We Tried It

Sylvox Smart Bathroom TV Mirror

With the touch of a button, turn the unsightly TV into a gorgeous mirror. Rated for wet spaces, the Sylvox Bathroom TV Mirror is available in 24-inch or 32-inch wall-mounted models.

$559 at Amazon

Shop on Walmart

You could spend thousands of dollars on a vanity TV, but with the Sylvox available, why would you? Grab this class act on Amazon or Walmart and turn your bath into your retreat. 

The post We Tried this New Sylvox Bathroom TV Mirror and Fell in Love – Here’s Why You Might, Too appeared first on Family Handyman.

Yes, the Family Handyman team went as far as to build a bathroom set using the top trends just so you can see them in action. Ready to see what we came up with?

Dual Shower Heads

Wall-Mount Dual Shower Heads with Handheld Shower Head Set

“Regular single shower heads are losing popularity, as more and more people are opting for the luxury and convenience of dual shower heads,” says interior designer and founder of Meble Furniture, Raf Michalowski.

Dual shower heads offer double the functionality and enjoyment when it comes to showering, Michalowski adds. In addition to a spa-like, luxurious look and feel, just imagine how clean you and your shower are going to be with double the water pressure coming from multiple directions.

“Go for different spray settings on each shower head for a customized experience,” Michalowski says. “The key to incorporating dual shower heads is proper placement and installation. It should be positioned in a way that allows for comfortable and equal water flow from both heads.”

Shop on The Home Depot

Also, don’t forget to explore these shower niche ideas for your bathroom.

Open Shower Space

Vigo Arden Frameless Fixed Shower Screen Door

According to the Houzz 2023 U.S Bathroom Trends report, “Nearly one in five renovating homeowners choose a doorless shower” when renovating their bathroom. This frameless shower screen offers the look of a doorless shower with the water protection of a traditional shower door. An open shower space can give more of a wet-room feel, which is perfectly on-trend. We love that this Vigo option is easy to clean and can be installed seamlessly on either side of your shower.

“‘Wet rooms’ and barrier free showers have been trending, and I think that will continue in 2024,” explains NCIDQ-certified interior designer with Paige Studio, Courtney Batten. “They’re not just beautiful, but necessary as our population ages since they serve an important role in keeping homeowners in their homes and living independently. I think more homeowners building new or remodeling their homes will be asking for barrier free showers from their designers and contractors.”

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Wall-Mounted Faucets

Aurora Decor Hoon Two-Handle Bathroom Faucet in Brushed Gold 

Trying to avoid the cluttered look around your bathroom vanity? A wall-mounted faucet frees up vanity and skin space while adding an upscale hotel vibe to your home bathroom. This wall-mounted faucet option is simple in design, yet looks totally chic when fixed to the wall.

“Space saving and sleek, these faucets add a modern touch to the bathroom,” says certified interior designer and founder of Simply Tablecloths Georgina Ross. We couldn’t agree more, and love the look of mounting simple brass or black hardware onto a bathroom wall, especially one with a bold or textured wallpaper.

Shop on The Home Depot

Freestanding Sinks

Vigo Rectangular Bathroom Vessel Sink

“These are becoming a focal point in modern bathroom designs for their aesthetic appeal,” says Georgina. This stone freestanding sink blends this trend with design interest in natural elements.

In addition to having a modern aesthetic appeal, freestanding sinks save you precious bathroom space, too. They’re a smart option for small bathrooms, half baths and powder rooms where you don’t have the room or need for a larger vanity. Without a vanity unit or bulky cabinets underneath the sink, your bathroom will feel more open. And if you opt for a freestanding sink in a larger bathroom, you can build in storage space in other clever ways custom to your needs.

$85 at Amazon

Adding Curves

Umbra Hubba Arched Wall Mirror

“I think this trend will continue to gain popularity as it adds a unique and elegant touch to bathroom design,” says interior designer and founder of Knobs.co, David Mason. “Whether it’s in the form of a curved vanity or a freestanding bathtub, incorporating curves can instantly elevate the aesthetic of any bathroom.”

One simple way to add curvature to your bathroom is with a curved mirror, like this Umbra option. Its arched top and curved edges add visual interest while its sleek metallic frame provides a finished feel that simple cut glass doesn’t often provide.

“As I can see, curved vanities, mirrors and fixtures soften the overall bathroom aesthetic, creating a more inviting and harmonious space,” Mason says. “So, the shift in 2024 is toward more sculptural and fluid forms, departing from strictly geometric designs, to introduce a sense of artistry and movement in bathroom interiors.”

Shop on Umbra

Choosing Luxe Accessories

Tesora Jewelry Box

“I believe that the bathroom accessories market will continue to expand, offering an array of luxe and functional options for homeowners,” Mason explains. “From stylish soap dispensers, toothbrush holders and towel racks to high-end shower caddies and baskets, there will be no shortage of options to elevate the bathroom experience. This trend is all about upgrading everyday items into statement pieces that add a touch of luxury and personality to the space.”

We’ve already seen this trend take flight at the beginning of this year, too. Whether you’re thrifting or repurposing trinkets or buying new, staple pieces to add a bit of charm to your bathroom, this trend offers a quick, easy and affordable way to upgrade your space. This jewelry box is a timeless, yet practical, piece that looks great on the counter while helping your bathroom vanity stay clean and clutter free.

Shop on Umbra

Dimmable Lights

SunRider Golden Industrial Vanity Light Fixtures

OK, who doesn’t love dimmable lights in the bathroom for that spa-like feel? Light a candle, dim the lights, hop in the tub for a relaxing way to unwind after a long day.

“Bathrooms are the perfect space to create ambiance and different moods with lighting. From soft mood lighting for a bubble bath to bright lighting for applying makeup, the technology to create different lighting is getting easier and more budget friendly by the year,” Batten explains.

These gorgeous mid-century wall sconces can be streamlined into just about any decor style. They can be mounted vertically or horizontally and are fully dimmable when used with dimmable bulbs and a compatible dimmer switch. “In 2024 we will see a lot about circadian lighting, which is lighting temperatures that automatically adjust based on the time of day,” Batten adds. “And since bathrooms are used to start and end your day, it’s the perfect space to experiment with this new technology.”

69.999% OFF$63.99 at Amazon

Easy-to-Maintain Tile

Villa Sage Glossy Ceramic Tile 

“Tiles that are easy to maintain, such as glazed ceramic tiles, are preferred for their resistance to moisture and stains,” Georgina explains. Makes sense to us! Who wants to scrub their bathroom floor every day to keep it looking hygienic? Glossy and glazed tiles, like these ceramic tiles, are easy to clean and look great. Plus, they add a pop of color to your space with a fresh sage hue.

Ceramic tile is easy to maintain, versatile and easy to install. Colorful, polished tile makes a huge design impact in small areas like the bathrooms and other frequently overlooked spaces. The classic rectangular, subway-style shape of these tiles will remain in style for a long time, so it can be updated over the years as you find new looks that are right for you. We like the idea of using these particular tiles as a design accent or over a larger area. They can also be installed on a shower wall.

Shop on Floor & Decor

Bold Patterns

Floor & Decor Mallorca Porcelain Tile 

Whether you add it in the form of wallpaper or tile, bold patterns and motifs are here to stay in 2024. “Color is back in for 2024, I believe we will see less of the all white ‘light and airy’ spaces and more clients wanting to infuse color into their spaces,” Batten says. “Bathrooms are the perfect room to experiment with bold color as their smaller scale means a little goes a long way. I think we will see a lot more historic floor patterns and hex tile in personalized designs and colors.”

These bold Mallorca porcelain tiles add a pop of color and a bold geometric design while keeping things feeling fresh. Porcelain tiles are easy to install and maintain, too. If you’re not sure about adding them to the entire floor, these particular tiles can be installed on a shower wall or even a shower floor.

Shop on Floor & Decor

Natural Elements

Kayan River Pebble Mosaic

“Incorporating natural elements like wood accents and plants continues to be a strong trend, creating a serene, spa-like atmosphere,” Georgina explains. Stone fixtures and elements create an indoor-meets-outdoor vibe, too.

This pebble mosaic has a greenish-blue tint and a satin-smooth finish. With the proper sealant, they are waterproof and can be used as a backsplash in the bathroom or kitchen. They look cool paired with a wooden vanity or countertop and will make you feel at one with nature.

Shop on Floor & Decor

Functional Flooring

Butter Toast Luxury Plank

Remember when carpet in the bathroom used to be the norm? Wet feet touching fluffy carpet fresh out of the shower seems like a surefire way to produce unwanted mold and mildew. Anyway, if you’re looking for functional bathroom flooring that’ll stand up to dog claws and your toddler throwing who-knows-what on it, this cork back option is an ideal choice. We love that this vinyl flooring looks like real wood, yet is waterproof and stain resistant. 

Michalowski agrees and says, “Functional flooring options such as cork and bamboo, which bring a warm and natural element to the space, are gaining popularity in bathrooms. I have seen a rise in homeowners opting for non-traditional bathroom flooring materials that not only look beautiful but are also durable and easy to maintain.”

“For instance, people are preferring cork flooring because it is not only soft underfoot but also water resistant and anti-microbial,” Michalowski adds, “making it a perfect choice for bathrooms.”

Shop on Floor & Decor

Sources:

• Raf Michalowski, interior designer and founder of Meble Furniture
• David Mason, interior designer and founder of Knobs.co
• Courtney Batten, NCIDQ-certified interior designer with Paige Studio
• Georgina Ross, certified interior designer and founder of Simply Tablecloths

The post The Top 11 Bathroom Trends of 2024, According to Interior Designers appeared first on Family Handyman.

Actually, a lot of us overlook our bathrooms. And that’s a problem. What happens there can significantly impact the environment, says Amy Zimmer-Faust, the wastewater pollution program director at The Nature Conservancy.

“In the United States, despite advanced wastewater treatment, some pollutants, including certain chemicals, can escape treatment processes and enter natural waterways, affecting aquatic ecosystems,” she says.

The bathroom is also where we tend to waste precious water and pile up plastics. But luckily, it’s pretty easy to fix all that with a few changes of habit. Here are some ideas for making your bathroom more sustainable.

Cut Down on Disposable Plastics

Ditch all of those single-use plastic bottles by switching to bars of shampoo, conditioner and soap, like these from J.R. Liggett’s.

“Most shampoo bars are the equivalent of what’s in two shampoo bottles, so it really does cut down on waste,” says Tonya Harris, an environmental toxicity specialist and author of The Slightly Greener Method. “They also typically last longer, because it’s hard to accidentally use too much, which means they’re better for the environment and your wallet.”

If you share a bathroom and don’t like the idea of multiple people using the same bar of hand soap, try buying bulk refills rather than replacing the container every time.

Also opt for products that don’t come in plastic packaging, like these shampoos from Alpine Provisions. Also choose refillable razors, deodorant that comes as a bar or a cardboard tube, and bamboo products like hairbrushes and toothbrushes.

“It can take up to 500 years for a plastic toothbrush to degrade, so try making the switch to a toothbrush that’s biodegradable,” says Harris.

Say Goodbye To Toxic Chemicals

Many common chemicals found in cleaners and personal care products are toxic to us and the environment. So opt for biodegradable soaps, like Castile soaps, and those without chemical fragrances.

Using biodegradable cleaning supplies and detergents is also important, says Zimmer-Faust. “These are less likely to contribute chemicals that can persist and accumulate in wildlife and the environment, like 1,4-dioxane, which can be found in many household detergents,” she says.

Harris agrees this is a biggie, and the switch doesn’t have be complicated. “We don’t need a different cleaner for each surface, like we’ve been led to believe,” says Harris. For most bathroom surfaces, she suggests a natural, non-toxic, all-purpose spray like Vermont Soap’s Liquid Sunshine Spray ‘n Wipe. Or you can make your own.

You can even make your own toilet bowl cleaner from white vinegar and baking soda, which also helps keep your pup safe if he or she enjoys sneaking a drink from the loo.

Harris’s recipe: Pour two cups of white distilled vinegar into the toilet bowl and let it set for about 30 minutes. Then pour in one cup of baking soda.

“This will create a fizz that will help lift any stains and grimy areas,” she says. “Be aware that vinegar and baking soda neutralize each other, taking away any cleaning properties, so be sure to let the vinegar sit for 30 minutes before adding baking soda. Then scrub and flush as usual.”

Flush Mindfully

What goes down the toilet can end up miles downstream, polluting waterways and harming aquatic life.

“It’s especially important to properly dispose of expired pharmaceuticals and personal care products,” says Zimmer-Faust. “A simple and eco-friendly alternative is to take pharmaceuticals to your local pharmacy.” For a list of locations near you, try this site from the U.S. Food and Drug Administration.

For personal care products, if your local recycling center doesn’t accept them as part of its hazardous materials program, then empty the contents into one container (like a glass jar or a non-recyclable bag) and throw that away. Rinse and recycle the other containers if they’re recyclable. While the landfill isn’t an ideal place for personal care products, it’s preferable to putting them in the water supply.

If you’re on a septic system, proper maintenance and regular inspections are also important, especially in rural areas near sensitive aquatic environments. Also, avoid flushing non-biodegradable materials. That will reduce the strain on the system, whether it’s septic or a community wastewater treatment plant.

Wipe Wisely and Install a Bidet

Toilet paper causes 15% of deforestation worldwide, with 27,000 trees lost each day. Manufacturing it also takes a lot of water and harsh chemicals. And a 2023 study found it to be a large contributor to PFAS (aka forever chemicals) in the environment and potentially in our bodies.

Luckily, it’s not too hard to find sustainable options. The National Resources Defense Council keeps tabs on brands’ environmental sustainability, and the Environmental Working Group helps consumers find brands that are safer for humans.

Either way, you can go a step farther by installing a bidet, which reduces the number of sheets you use. Plus, it’s more sanitary. While they’re just starting to become trendy in the U.S., bidets are widely popular in Europe and Asia, and even required in homes in some countries.

Replace Toilets and Showerheads

If you have an old toilet, you’re flushing away money and precious resources. Toilets made before 1980 may use seven or more gallons per flush compared with toilets today, which are required to use 1.6 gallons or less.

If changing to a low-flow modern model possible right away, fill a one-liter plastic bottle with gravel, screw on the cap and put it in your tank, making sure it doesn’t touch any moving parts. That will save you water with each flush. (Don’t put bricks in your toilet tank to displace water. They’ll break down over time and can damage flush mechanisms.)

As for the shower, many low-flow heads let you drastically cut back on water without cutting down on the experience. Also, try shortening your shower, especially if you live in a drought-prone region. That will help out creatures who depend on wetlands for their homes.

Don’t Forget to Recycle

Many single-use plastics in your bathroom are great candidates for recycling, especially shampoo bottles. Just make sure to rinse them out before putting them in the bin. And that toilet paper tube is also recyclable.

Rethink Beauty and Hygiene Products

Just as we rethought the need for formal work wear after the pandemic, we can reduce our use of makeup, hairspray and other superfluous personal care products.

Chemicals and contaminants in many brands are harmful to us and the environment. They’re also bad for the communities and waterways near manufacturing plants.

Check EWG’s resources for healthier choices and look for Leaping Bunny cruelty-free certification. And don’t forget to replace those makeup wipes with a reusable towel, which will save a mountain of plastic-infused waste.

About the Experts

• Tonya Harris is an award-winning environmental toxin expert, the founder of Slightly Greener and author of The Slightly Greener Method, which offers busy moms simple solutions to reduce toxins. She holds a master’s degree in holistic nutrition and multiple certificates in the environmental health field.
• Amy Zimmer-Faust is an environmental health scientist with a passion for finding solutions to water challenges. She’s the wastewater pollution program director at The Nature Conservancy.

The post How To Make Your Bathroom More Sustainable appeared first on Family Handyman.

Navy and Gold Chic

When browsing blue vanity bathroom ideas, you’ll find a common pairing with all shades: gold or brass accents.

As you can see in this example from the Chicago interior design firm @esslingerdesigncompany, the deep navy of this vanity contrasts elegantly with the gold hardware and mirror. Add a traditional white marble countertop, and this design screams sophistication, luxury and self-care.

Soft, Airy Blue

This stunning blue vanity from color expert and home blogger @mariakillam proves two things. One, going blue doesn’t have to mean going bold. And two, you can (and maybe should) mix your metals.

Chrome fixtures and brass accents coexist beautifully in this bathroom, where the light blue vanity adds just a touch of color to an otherwise mostly neutral space. Small bathrooms in particular can benefit from the airy feel.

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A post shared by Emily Counts | Organizing & Simplifying (@smallstuffemily)

Powder Blue

You don’t have to replace your vanity to enjoy the calming effects of blue. As shown in this DIY from home organization blogger @smallstuffemily, painting an existing vanity a soft powder blue can completely transform your bathroom.

You don’t see it in her video, but she added black hardware and painted the ceiling black for a modern contrast that pulled the whole look together.

Steel Blue

For a modern take on a blue vanity, consider going with a deep steel blue, like this one from home styling expert @getshelfhelp.

The cool tone creates a sleek, sophisticated setting that makes the shiny gold fixtures come to life. Limiting the pop of color to the vanity doesn’t overpower the small bathroom, and adds just enough visual interest to make a statement.

Bold Cobalt

OK, we know we’ve stressed the need for neutral tones when incorporating blue. But we can’t deny the impact of a bold cobalt vanity and a wildly colorful wallpaper, like this one from interior design studio @ashleygoforth.

Even in a teeny-tiny bathroom, this combination is dynamic and visually captivating. The key to pulling this off is making sure the wallpaper ties in the blue color of the vanity. That’s what makes it work!

@jenhantz I mean, I needed more storage! #bathroom #quickfix #lowes #bluevanity #itsme ♬ Anti-Hero – Taylor Swift

Silver Touches

Gold is undoubtedly the go-to fixture finish for blue vanities. But as shown in this TikTok from @jenhantz, a cool silver can work just as well.

Tired of the lack of storage from her simple pedestal sink, she chose a chic blue vanity with silver hardware that effortlessly complements the gray and white color scheme in the rest of the bathroom. The addition gives it a touch of glam without being overpowering.

@lilsgrl Turned part of my master vanity into a standing vanity, sawed the bottom, added legs and a drawer and now a vessel vanity! Something classy #diyproject #deepbluevanity #chalkpaint #iwantimake #bathroomremodel #savemoneylivebetter #boybathroomideas #sawitonpinterest #workhardplayharder ♬ So Fresh, So Clean – Outkast

Modern Farmhouse Blue

This stunning DIY blue vanity from TikToker @lilsgrl offers the perfect example of how to incorporate a bold color into a traditional setting. We love how she mixed the charm of the vanity’s vintage-style legs with modern fixtures and a vessel sink.

@fieldandvineyard Spending my birthday finishing up this guest bathroom refresh! The previous paint job was so bad that it would peel off with just my nail. It is now extremely durable thanks to my favorite One Hour Enamel paint! I love how this color looks with this gorgeous brass hardware from @inspire_hardware! Their high-quality cabinet pulls and knobs are the perfect finishing touch to this vanity makeover. #bathroomvanityupdate #bathroomvanitypainted #bluevanity ♬ original sound – Christina

Pole-Wrapped Doors

Pole-wrapping is a fun and easy way to add some personality to plain cabinet doors, as demonstrated in this TikTok by furniture flipper @fieldandvineyard.

She used Wise Owl Paint’s One Hour Enamel in the color Raven, described as “the deepest dark blue of your dreams.” The result? A dramatic update to her bathroom vanity that instantly elevates the entire space. The added pole-wrapping detail brings texture and interest to the otherwise flat cabinet doors.

@angezcreations Blue Bathroom Vanity #bathroom #farmhousebathroom #bluebathroom #2pcbathroom #renovation #bathroomrenovation #renovation #mainfloorbathroom #farmhouse #bathroomsink #bluevanity #vanity #vanitymakeover #bluefaucet ♬ Otra Vez – ProdMarvin

Floating Blue Sink

Just because you lack the room for a full-sized vanity doesn’t mean you can’t enjoy the beauty of blue in your bathroom. TikToker @AngeZCreations gave her simple floating sink (it’s the size of a single drawer) a fresh coach of deep blue paint and added black and silver hardware.

The unique shape of the sink and the unexpected color choice make this a standout statement. Plus, it’s a great space-saving solution.

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A post shared by Jennifer Kizzee Design (@jenniferkizzeedesign)

Blue Overload? Never!

If you’re worried that painting your vanity blue will limit your color choices elsewhere, think again. This striking bathroom from interior design studio @jenniferkizzeedesign features a gorgeously serene blue vanity, plus a blue-tiled shower and blue tile flooring.

To make this work, stick with similar shades of blue throughout and balance them with white accents. The result? A dreamy, spa-like oasis right at home.

About the Expert

• Artem Kropovinksy is an interior design expert and the founder of Arsight, an award-winning interior design studio based in New York City.

The post 10 Blue Vanity Bathroom Ideas You’ll Love appeared first on Family Handyman.

• Open any bathroom windows.
• Turn on the bathroom vent fan.
• For additional protection, wear a canister respirator mask.

Remove the toilet tank lid

• Gently lift the lid from the toilet tank.
• Place it gently on a carpeted surface or towel to prevent breakage.

Clean behind the toilet

• Mix a solution of mild soap and water in a bucket. One teaspoon of soap for every quart of water is a good ratio.
• Use a wrung-out sponge or rag to wipe the wall behind the toilet to remove any dust or hair.
• Let the surfaces dry.

Protect the toilet

• Open a 30-gallon trash bag and place it over the toilet tank.
• Gather the open end of the bag toward the front of the tank.
• Twist the open end of the bag until it’s snug against the back of the tank.
• Secure the twisted part of the bag to the toilet with painter’s tape.
• Place a drop cloth on the floor behind the toilet.

Mix and pour paint

• Use a paint can opener to remove the lid.
• With the stir stick, mix the paint until thoroughly combined. This can take three to five minutes.
• Pour the paint into the paint tray, partially filling the well (the deepest part).

Paint behind the toilet

• Using your roller, apply paint to the wall behind the toilet in a back and forth motion.
• Apply from different angles until wall coverage is complete.
• Check for drips or runs in the paint. Gently reapply the roller to smooth out.
• Follow the manufacturer’s dry time and apply a second coat, if needed.

Clean up

• Remove the trash bag and painter’s tape.
• Dispose of the trash bag, roller cover and painter’s tape. You can use the bag for something else if there aren’t any holes in it.
• Wash the paint roller frame and tray.
• Remove the drop cloth.

Replace toilet tank lid

• Pick up the toilet tank lid.
• Carefully place the lid onto the tank until it sits in place.

The post How To Paint Behind a Toilet appeared first on Family Handyman.

Vertical Shiplap

Farmhouse style bathrooms from a few years ago incorporated a lot of horizontal shiplap paneling. Install vertical shiplap for a more updated look, as seen here in this space from @blessedandhumbledhome.

The vertical shiplap and peg rail add interest as well as a place to hang towels. Finish the look with even more layers of texture, like this antique stool and vintage-style rug.

A Touch of Color

Here’s another example of updated shiplap, incorporating color. Black and white is the traditional pallet for modern farmhouse bathroom design, but current trends call for more color.

This accent wall from @kylieminteriors is painted a gorgeous gray-green color — Evergreen Fog by Sherwin-Williams. Look for earthy, muted colors in hues you would find in nature to achieve the cozy style synonymous with farmhouse.

Unique Vintage Details

Feminine, vintage touches, like these from @lhsimpleliving, give your farmhouse bathroom character. Notice the creamy beige color on the walls and wood tones, which add warmth. And we’re drooling over the wood doors to the linen closet. They were taken off an old boat!

Vintage pieces like the doors will help you avoid cookie cutter trends and attain one-of-a-kind style.

Subtle Pattern

Outdated farmhouse bathrooms often feature bold black-and-white pattern, usually in the flooring. A more subtle one, like in the wallpaper seen here from @oliverjames_interiors, makes this bathroom a softer and updated.

Paired with the white beadboard paneling, it’s bright and airy, yet still gives off that welcoming farmhouse vibe.

Colored Tile

When using more color to update your farmhouse style, consider the tile. The pretty sage green tile in this space by @ourlittleflintcottage warms up the room and defines the bath and sink area.

Don’t forget other homey touches to achieve a layered, collected look, like the vintage mirror, barn-style door and wood floors featured here.

DIY Shelf Unit

Farmhouse design includes natural textures like wood and rope. That’s why this DIY shelf project by @ourwintonhome is perfect for your updated farmhouse bathroom.

Watch as they drill holes into a few wood planks, and tie the shelves together into one unit with rope. Hang it above the toilet for functional storage space that compliments your modern aesthetic.

Brick Flooring

The unexpected choice of brick flooring in this bathroom by @thewhole9yardsdesign definitely gives off farmhouse vibes. They used brick web sheets, which are easier to install than individual bricks.

Because brick and grout lines are porous, it’s important to properly seal the flooring for durability, water resistance and easier cleaning.

DIY Rustic Beams

Rustic wood will warm up any bathroom and add farmhouse flair. Here’s how @homewithhay made and installed her own rustic wood beam casing around her bathtub nook.

She purchased 4×6 wood beams, then added texture and saw marks to make them look aged. Next, she stained them with dark wood stain and attached them to the walls and ceiling with five-inch screws.

About the Expert

• Bryn Wulf is a senior designer at Two Hands Interiors, serving the greater Chicago area. Her interiors are comfortable, traditional and tailored to be expertly livable.

The post 8 Farmhouse Bathroom Ideas appeared first on Family Handyman.

Adorn the Lighting

If you have sconce lighting, you can copy this cute idea from @nickser_upper. Take a few ornaments, a bow and a little greenery, and attach a bundle to each sconce. The all-red color scheme makes a big impact against the white walls. And because the decor is attached to the lighting, it doesn’t clutter up limited counter space.

Cozy Lights

This bathroom from @tayloramorgan_glows with cozy Christmas magic thanks to the twinkle lights. A festive garland, a Christmas banner and lights hang above the mirrors, while a few paper snowflakes dangle from the ceiling. The counter decor is simple: just a few trees and snowflake-shaped soap dispensers. She calls the space her own little wonderland — and we agree!

Fresh Garland

Fresh garland and greenery in your bathroom smells great and will last longer thanks to the humid atmosphere. This black-and-white bathroom from @marimakeovers features a garland strung on the shower rod (complete with dried orange slices!) as well as a couple of fresh branches in a vase. The effect is festive yet clean and modern.

Jolly Linens

Sometimes all you need to do is switch out your linens to holiday-themed versions to transform your bathroom for the season. Red-and-white towels and a bath mat make this bathroom from @simply_luka_home ready for Christmas. (Yes, we found a similar bath rug.) Finish the look with a couple of faux Christmas trees, and you’re done!

Pretty Bows

This sweet pink-and-red bathroom from @westcottageinteriors was just screaming for delicate Christmas baubles and bows. White bows tied to the sconce lights, a tray of ornaments, a small wreath and a pink poinsettia all fit the vintage vibes perfectly. Ensuring your Christmas decor blends seamlessly with your everyday decor will create a cohesive and harmonious look for the holidays.

Christmas Tree

Have you ever seen an entire Christmas tree set up in a bathroom? If your bathroom is big enough — why not? As seen in this space from @kristenmtracey, the Christmas tree, adorned with ribbon and lights, makes a huge impact. And how much fun would it be to take a bubble bath while enjoying a twinkling Christmas tree?

If you use plug-in lights, keep the cord off the floor and away from any water source.

Simple and Sophisticated

Just a few simple Christmas touches might be all you need in your bathroom, especially if you’re aesthetic is more minimalist. A winter floral, holiday soap and a modern reindeer is enough to fill this vanity top from @designsanddecors. Pay attention to details for an elevated look. Notice the gold reindeer antlers match the gold accents of the bathroom, and the wood vase adds warmth.

Shelf Accessories

Switching out the artwork and shelf decor is an easy way to add holiday cheer without overcrowding a small bathroom. Cute “Better Not Pout” artwork and a few Christmas accessories add just the right amount of merriness to this cottage bathroom by @cozycrazing. A pine- or cinnamon-scented candle is always a nice touch for extra ambiance.

Maximalist Christmas Bathroom

We’ve talked a lot about not cluttering up the bathroom with Christmas decor, but maybe that’s your goal! There’s nothing wrong with taking the maximalist approach to holiday decorations, even in the bathroom, as proven here by @house.on.holmes. A fluffy garland and a wreath practically cover the mirror, while the shelves are stuffed with framed Christmas artwork. You can’t help but feel the holiday spirit in this small bathroom.

Shower Curtain

The easiest way to get your bathroom ready for the holidays is to simply hang a Christmas-themed shower curtain, as seen here in this bathroom from @nizsousa. A winter or holiday shower curtain completely transforms the space without busting your budget. Choose a shower curtain that blends well with your bathroom color scheme to avoid it looking too jarring.

About the Expert

Sheri Fitzgerald is a luxury holiday designer and owner of Hold my Eggnog based in Florida.

The post 10 Bathrooms Decorated for Christmas To Give You Inspiration appeared first on Family Handyman.

• Typically, there’s a water shut off valve near the base of the toilet.
• Turn the control handle to the right to shut off the water supply.
  • Some valves need to be turned repeatedly, while others only take a quarter turn.
• If there’s no shut off near the toilet or if the shut off won’t close completely, turn off the main water supply.

Drain water from the toilet

• Flush the toilet and hold the handle down to drain out as much water as possible.
  • Because the water supply is off, it will drain without refilling the tank.
  • This will remove most of the water, but not all.
• Use a wet/dry vacuum or a sponge to remove the last of the water.
  • While the water in the tank is clean, the water in the bowl and trap definitely isn’t. Wash your hands as needed.
• Disconnect the water supply line from the toilet tank.
  • Have paper towels or rags on hand for any water that leaks out the fill valve.

Pull the toilet

• Remove the toilet seat and set it aside.
• Remove the bolt caps, then the nuts that secure the toilet to the floor.
  • If the bolt spins along with the nut, grab the exposed bolt above the nut with locking pliers.
  • Loosen the nut just enough to squeeze in a hacksaw blade below the nut and saw through the bolt.
• Lift the toilet high enough to clear the bolts (about three or four inches) and set it aside.
  • Lift with your legs rather than your back.
  • If the toilet is too heavy, disconnect the tank from the base and remove each half separately.
• Stuff a rag into the drain line to keep sewer gases contained.
  • Use a rag that’s about the size of a small hand towel. You do not want the rag to fall into the waste pipe. (Trust me on this one.)
  • Note: Some of the photo details were obscured with the rag in place, so for the sake of clarity I removed the rag blocking the toilet hole. Keep the rag in place on your own project,

Scrape wax from flange and toilet

• Scrape all the old wax from the bottom of the toilet and toilet flange with a putty knife.
• If the toilet was caulked to the floor, scrape off any stuck-on caulk.

Identify the cause of the leak

This step will be unique to your situation. Sometimes the issue is immediately apparent. Other times, it takes more investigation.

In the toilet I was repairing, it turned out that whoever installed the bathroom flooring hadn’t leveled the floor around the toilet flange. Rather than take time to fix their mistake, they’d simply left a handful of tile spaces and hoped things would be OK. This poor fix allowed the toilet to rock, which over time pushed the wax seal out of alignment and caused a leak.

Here are some common causes of leaks around the flange:

• Broken flange.
  • Identified by a crack in the flange, usually on the outside of the slot that holds the toilet bolt.
  • Most common with cast iron or plastic flanges.
  • Repair with a flange reinforcement ring.
• A flange that’s too low.
  • Flanges that sit more than 1/4-inch below the finished floor can have this problem.
  • Common when a non-plumber installs a new floor, and doesn’t understand the importance of a good seal at the flange.
  • Repair with a flange extender.
• Wax ring failure.
  • A wax ring won’t deteriorate, but it can be pushed down, squeezed to one side or twisted out of place by a loose, wobbling toilet.
  • If nothing appears to be wrong, resetting the toilet with a new wax ring might be the only thing you need to do.
  • This is the most common problem when toilets leak at the base. Luckily, it’s also the easiest solution.

Repair the issue

Once you’ve identified the root issue, it’s time to fix it.

• Repair broken flanges with a flange reinforcement ring.
• Repair low flanges with a flange extender.
• Repair damaged wax rings by replacing the ring and stabilizing the toilet to prevent repeat issues.
  • In my case, I added another vinyl tile to level the flooring beneath the toilet.
• If the flooring is still wet from the leak, clean it up and dry it thoroughly.
  • Leave a fan on it to speed this process.
• If the leak has gone on for a long time, the flooring or subfloor may be damaged. Remove any rotten or weakened material and replace it.
  • If the subfloor or joists are rotten, this will take some carpentry skills. If you’re not comfortable with that type of work, it’s best to bring in a pro.

Install the new wax ring

• Place the toilet bolts in the flange.
  • The wide bottom of the bolt fits in the wide opening of the flange, then slides into place.
  • Note that these new bolts are taller than the ones you removed. This is to make installation easier. You’ll trim them down to size after setting the toilet.
• If the bolts came with plastic washers, slip them over the bolts so they fit snugly against the top of the flange.
  • These will keep the bolts upright and in place while you set the toilet.
  • If you haven’t already removed the rag, be sure to do so now.
• Set the wax ring in place.
  • If you have a “reinforced” wax ring with a plastic spout, it’s usually easiest to set it onto the flange opening.
  • If you have a plain wax ring, it’s usually easiest to set it around the spout on the bottom of the toilet.
  • I recommend the reinforced rings. They’re an extra layer of protection for only a few dollars more.

Set the toilet

• Lift the toilet high enough to clear the bolts.
  • Remember, the new bolts are taller than the ones you removed.
• Set the toilet down as straight as possible. You want to avoid knocking the wax ring out of center.
  • You may not get it perfectly straight and even. That’s fine, as long as you don’t damage the wax seal.
• Rock the toilet back and forth gently, pushing the wax tight.
  • Don’t twist the toilet into place, which can create a void in the wax seal.
• Put the washers and nuts on the toilet bolts.
  • Hand-tighten both sides, then switch to pliers or a wrench.
• Alternate from one side to the other so the toilet is tightened with uniform pressure.
• Tighten each side slightly, then rock the toilet. If it’s loose, continue tightening until it sits tight and even against the floor.
• Do not over-tighten. Tightening too much can crack the porcelain.
• Snap off the top of the bolts to bring them down to the right height.
• Use pliers for this, or a hacksaw to cut through and pliers to finish the job.
• Replace the toilet bolt caps.
• Replace the toilet seat.

Reconnect water supply

• Connect the water supply to the fill valve on the toilet tank.
• Hand-tighten the supply line.
  • You should not need pliers to tighten the supply line. If you do, there is a good chance you will strip the plastic threads.

Test and adjust as needed

• Flush the toilet and allow it to fill up. Look for leaks around the water supply, tank and base.
• Sit on the toilet a few times and move from side to side. If it rocks or shifts, tighten the bolts further or put a shim in place.
• Once the toilet is definitely tight, stable and running without leaks, caulk the gap between the toilet and floor.
  • How much needs to be caulked depends on the code requirements where you live. Some areas require caulk all around the toilet. Others allow a gap in the back, while a few do not require caulk at all.

Fixing Common Toilet Problems

Whether you need to unclog the toilet or are facing a different set of toilet troubles, here are some common fixes for the porcelain problems you may be encountering.

• How to Unclog a Toilet
• How to Unclog a Toilet With a Plunger
• How to Unclog a Toilet With a Drain Snake
• How to Stop a Running Toilet
• How to Fix a Running Toilet
• How to Fix a Leaking Toilet Flapper

The post How To Fix a Leaking Toilet appeared first on Family Handyman.