Shorten Horizontal Blinds

Horizontal blind slats hanging below the windowsill are unsightly and a hazard for young children. The pull cords are the most dangerous. Shortening the blinds to the proper height will raise the pull cords and make your home safer.

Make an Easy Blind Cleaner

Keep some inexpensive cotton or microfiber gloves around the house to clean your blinds. Slip on a glove and run your fingers over the slats. When the gloves get dirty, pop them into the wash. It’s that easy!

Use Hooks for Mini Blind Cord Safety

Put suction cups with hooks on the window to keep mini blind cords safely out of the reach of infants and toddlers. You won’t have to drill holes in either the wall or the casing for cord brackets. And when the kids are older, you can just remove the hooks—no holes to repair!

Straighten a Bent Blind

Unmangle mangled mini-blinds with a mini-blind slat straightener. Just slide it over the damaged slat and squeeze.

Use a Mini Blind Bracket Hole Template

Marking the pilot holes for mini blinds or other small brackets is painstaking. Transfer the pilot holes to a piece of tape, and stick the tape where the bracket is to be fastened. Drill the pilot holes and mount your brackets.

Replace Your Blinds’ Cords Regularly

Replace worn cords on mini blinds, pleated shades and other slatted blinds before they break.

Make Your Windows Work for You

Keep the blinds or drapes on windows with direct sun exposure open (usually on the south side of the house) to let the sunlight heat the room. Heating doesn’t get any cheaper than this! At night, close the blinds or drapes to cover the cold glass.

The post Mini Blind Maintenance: Tips and Fixes That Work appeared first on Family Handyman.

A broken storm window can be dangerous and inefficient, but is it a DIY project? A few things to know before you decide to do it yourself.

The post How to Repair or Replace a Broken Storm Window appeared first on Family Handyman.

Curtains are a welcome accessory to any room.  Like a piece of jewelry, curtains can add a lot of depth to an environment if done well. But if curtains aren’t done properly, it draws the eye in a highly unflattering way.

And just like a good accessory, curtains and curtain rods can get expensive.  Seriously, the only reason I purchased a sewing machine was to save money making my living room curtains.  I preferred to spend the money on a very nice piece of curtain fabric that would have cost me a ton if I purchased the SAME material in an already-made curtain.

The same thought process applies to the curtain rod. I invested in hole saw bits for my drill press with a specific diameter so I could cut the wood rings I wanted. In the end, it truly is an investment, as these tools will be used repeatedly for many other projects. Besides, I love nothing more than telling guests, “I made them!”

When making curtain rods, there are many ways to go. Metal, wood, plastic? The bottom line is that, beyond serving its function by holding a curtain, a curtain rod can add some flair to the space and reflect the characteristics of the style. Decide on the color of the finish and make sure it complements the other finishes in the space.

Get as fancy or simple as you wish. Enjoy the process… To make your life easier, I share the steps with a couple of my favorite techniques: Pyrography and decorative paint finishes. Enjoy!

Bracket Overview

Cutting List

Make the brackets

Cut the top caps (A) and back legs (B) for your curtain rods and nail them together using wood glue and brad nails, forming an “L bracket.”  Orient the top cap (A) on top of the back leg (B). If your curtain rod will be longer than four feet, or if the curtain’s fabric is heavier, make an additional bracket to serve as a center support and prevent the rod from sagging in the middle.

Make the rings

Using a 2-1/8-in. hole saw in a drill press, cut a circle from 1×3 material for each bracket you made. Hole saws are measured by the outside diameter so a 2-1/8-in. hole saw will cut a 2-inch circle or one just slightly shy of it. Place a sacrificial board underneath the 1×3 to prevent blowing out on the back side of the circle when the hole saw cuts through.

Create a ring by cutting a hole through the center of the roughly 2-in. circle with a 1-1/4-in. hole saw. Use the same arbor hole from the 2-1/8-in. hole saw to center the 1-1/4-in. hole. When drilling with the smaller diameter 1-1/4-in. hole saw, use double stick tape to secure the circle to the sacrificial piece of wood underneath it. If necessary, lock the piece in place with other pieces of wood so that it does not move during the drilling process.

Once cut, sand the edges smooth and remove any cutting marks from the wood rings you have created.

Burn the ring edges (optional)

Utilizing a pyrography pen, create a texture of straight lines along the outer edge of the curtain rod rings.

Set the temperature by performing a test run with the same species of wood and tip you intend to use. If your pyrography pen does not have a temperature adjustment, you will have to adjust your speed as you burn.  You should move the pyrography pen faster if you are burning softwood. Slower if you’re burning harder wood. Also, slow down slightly when burning against the grain to prevent skips in your burn line.

Cut and drill the curtain rod

Cut the one-inch dowel to the length you require, usually 12 inches wider than the window opening.  Drill a 7/32-in. hole at each end, 1/2 inches from the rod end. These holes will accommodate the small tie rack peg we will use as a stop to prevent the rod from falling out of the ring when curtains are drawn or closed. Drill these holes with the dowel in the same orientation to keep them aligned and symmetrical.

Paint

Paint all pieces. First, apply two coats of black paint, and then build up the coats of your chosen metallic color to a solid finish. If you want a brushed metal look, lightly apply coats with a dry brush. If you want a solid metallic look, build up with layers. Keep in mind that your metallic paints will reflect the movement of your brush strokes. Most metallic paints will require more than the standard two coats of paint to achieve a solid look.

Pre-drill hanging holes

Pre-drill the mounting holes in the bracket’s back leg (B) with a countersink drill bit so that screws will be seeded flush with the surface.  The holes were drilled 1/2-in. down from the inner corner of the bracket and 1/4-in. in from the edges. Touch up the countersunk holes with primer and paint before installation.

Attach the rings

Position the painted rings so they are aligned and centered on brackets. Pre-drill countersunk holes from the backside of the top cap (A) and back leg (B) of the bracket, and use wood glue and one-inch screws to secure the rings in place.

How To Hang Curtain Rods

Determine the bracket placement

It is recommended that the brackets be positioned so that they are wider than the window opening in order to ensure that, when the curtains are drawn, they can completely cover the window. It is important to consider the length of your curtains as well as the location where you would like them to fall when determining the height of the bracket.

Decide how the curtain rod brackets will be attached to the wall. To determine what hardware to securely install your curtain rod brackets, use a stud finder to determine if you have a stud or hollow drywall at the desired location. Be mindful that some heavy curtains can weigh up to 50 pounds when choosing the appropriate screw or anchor.

Hang the curtain rods and curtains

Use the appropriate screws or anchors to secure the brackets to the wall.  A level should be used to ensure that the brackets are level with one another. After that, thread the curtains onto the rod and the rod through the brackets. To complete the installation and ensure the curtain rod is locked in place, insert the tie rack peg into the drilled holes at each end of the rod.

FAQ

Why use black paint as a primer for metallic paints?

When applying a metallic paint, always use a dark color to serve as a primer and help you get to the metallic finish with less coats and help the metallic have more brilliance when done.  Decorative painters often use black or red paint as a base color under silver, brass, gold or copper.

How high off the floor should my curtain be?

The proper height to hang curtains depends on the style and function of the room. Here are a few common options:

• Floor-length: Formal. Hangs 1/2 inch above floor, creating an elegant “kissing the floor” effect.
• Casual Length/Float Length: Sits about one inch above the floor for a relaxed, modern look and easy maintenance.
• Puddled Style: Extends 1-10 inches onto floor for dramatic luxury. Not recommended with children/pets.
• Shorter Length: Practical for specific situations like children’s rooms, areas with pets, or above radiators. Can make ceilings appear lower and room feel more casual.

The post DIY Curtain Rods: Add Personal Flair to Your Home appeared first on Family Handyman.

What are Window Belly Bars

They’re a unique architectural feature, usually made of metal. They curve out from the window, creating a “potbelly” shape. Their primary purpose is extra security. They’re often seen in older buildings with a bit of vintage charm, adding to the overall character of the structure.

Where Are They Most Common?

You’ll typically spot window belly bars in older, historic buildings. Cities with a lot of Victorian, Georgian, or Art Deco architecture—like New York, London, or Paris—are prime locations for these charming bars. They add some character to buildings, whether it’s an old apartment building, a townhouse, or even a commercial property.

Are They Hard to Install?

If you’re considering adding window belly bars to your space, they’re not too difficult to install. Most kits come with pre-cut bars and brackets, so it’s mostly about measuring your windows and attaching them securely.

However, if you’re dealing with an older building, hiring a professional is a good idea to ensure the bars fit correctly and don’t damage the structure. Especially in historic buildings, you want to ensure the installation doesn’t interfere with the overall integrity or aesthetic of the space or go against any city codes or HOA rules.

Make sure the window frame or surrounding structure can handle the weight of the bars, and you’ll have a fun, charming addition to your home.

The post Here’s What Those Window Bars With a Potbelly Are Actually For appeared first on Family Handyman.

It requires just a few inexpensive supplies and a few minutes of your time every couple of weeks.

A Hack to Stop Window Condensation

TikTok user @blooms_abode posted a quick solution to control mold growth around windows.

The hack starts by fully opening window curtains and blinds to allow complete access. Next, leave a jar of bicarbonate soda “bicarb” on the windowsill to absorb moisture. Every two weeks, use a mold spray and cleaning rag to run along the window to clean off any growth.

And that’s it!

@blooms_abode

You NEED this. #condensation #condensationhack #hacks #fyp #foryoupage #cleaning #cleantok

♬ Christmas Is Coming – DM Production

Causes of Condensation in Windows

Condensation on windows happens when warm, moist air comes into contact with a cold surface, like a window pane. The air cools down, and the moisture in it turns into tiny water droplets, which is what you see on the glass.

This is especially common in colder months when indoor air is warmer and more humid compared to the chilly outside air. It can also occur if there’s a lot of moisture in your home—think cooking, showering, or even plants releasing water vapor. If the humidity inside your house is too high, it makes it more likely for condensation to form, even when your windows are closed.

Is Mold on Windows Dangerous?

Mold on windows can indeed be a concern, especially if left unchecked. While it might start as a small patch, mold can spread to other areas and release spores into the air, which isn’t ideal for indoor air quality.

For some people, especially those with allergies, asthma, or compromised immune systems, exposure to mold spores can lead to symptoms like coughing, sneezing, eye irritation, or even respiratory issues. Even if you’re not sensitive to mold, it’s still a good idea to clean it up as soon as you spot it, since it can damage surfaces over time and lead to staining.

Keeping your windows dry and controlling indoor humidity can help prevent mold from forming in the first place.

The post This Simple Hack Stops Condensation on Your Windows appeared first on Family Handyman.

That’s right. Home insulation materials hold small pockets of air and keep them separated from each other. Because air is a poor thermal conductor, these pockets prevent heat from passing through walls and ceilings. This is true for all types of home insulation — fiberglass, cellulose, mineral wool and foam.

The same principle is true for window glass. By itself, glass is a poor insulator. Test it yourself by touching the inside of a window on a cold day. If it’s single-pane glass, it will feel cold. If it’s double- or triple-pane, it won’t.

Insulated glass consists of two or more panes with a gap in between, filled with air or an inert gas like argon or neon. That layer of air or gas does the insulating.

“Insulated windows act as effective barriers against the cold,” says Jeramy Sibley, president of Glass Doctor. “This not only reduces heating costs by improving energy efficiency, but also enhances overall indoor comfort by maintaining a consistent and warmer temperature.”

Jeff Palla, president of Mr. Handyman, adds: “Properly insulating windows for the winter season is a smart investment that can save a homeowner money on heating costs, both in the short and long run.”

How much? Up to $583 per year, according to Energy Star.

What Is Window Insulation?

Basically, window insulation is a barrier that prevents heat loss through your windows. Insulated glass is the most obvious example, because it insulates the entire window while preserving transparency. But not all insulation methods do that.

Sometimes gaps around the window are more problematic than the glass. Barriers that prevent airflow through these gaps “enhance overall indoor comfort by maintaining a consistent and warmer temperature,” Sibley says.

Palla offers the following advice for four window insulation strategies that don’t involve replacing the window glass:

• Draft stoppers: These simple fabric tubes sit at the bottom of the window to prevent cold air from leaking inside. “They are most effective when used with double-hung windows, which are most prone to leaking along the bottom,” Palla says.
• Curtains and blinds: “The right window treatments can act like a blanket, covering the glass to keep the cold out,” he says. Palla recommends cellular or honeycomb shades, along with fleece-lined and blackout curtains.
• Caulk and weatherstripping: Use caulk to seal gaps between the window glass and the frame. “Help your windows and doors close more tightly by installing weatherstripping inside the jams and sashes,” Palla says.
• Window film: Whether you DIY the installation or hire a pro, shrink film “seals off drafts and captures an insulating buffer of air,” Palla says.

What Is Insulated Window Glass?

Insulated windows may be made from tempered or safety glass. Because gas molecules between the panes are farther apart than in solid materials, they interact less and transmit less heat energy. This is why insulated windows prevent heat transference.

Insulated double- or triple-pane windows act as effective barriers against the cold, preventing drafts and heat transfer, Sibley says. That isn’t the only factor affecting heat loss, however. The type of window also matters, and Sibley compares four of the most effective styles:

• Single-hung: These feature one moveable framed pane (aka sash) that opens vertically, and one fixed one. The moveable sash does a good job of preventing drafts, although it may need weatherstripping at the bottom. Single-hung windows are good for climate control because they let cold air into areas that may have be too full of heat, providing a balance of warmth and coolness. “They also provide resistance to strong winds in freezing temperatures,” Sibley says.
• Double-hung. These come with two vertically moveable sashes. They work as well as single-hung windows while allowing you to better manage airflow.
• Casement: A casement window opens and closes like a door, usually with one or two locks to seal it shut. “Many consider this the best window for cold weather due to its tight seal,” says Sibley.
• Sliding: These open horizontally. “The sliding window’s seal combined with double- or triple-glass panes is more than sufficient for guarding you and your family from the cold,” says Sibley.

How To Insulate Windows for Winter

Replace all your single-pane windows with double- or triple-pane ones is an expensive proposition that isn’t always practical. Sealing gaps with weatherstripping and caulk will help, but they won’t prevent heat loss through the glass.

Drafty windows let in the cold air, and that can make your favorite corner or even your entire house uncomfortably chilly. Learn to winterize your windows to stay warm this winter.

Window film

Palla suggests installing window film to reinforce the glass against the cold. It’s generally inexpensive and readily available at hardware stores or online.

Bubble wrap

Sibley offers an effective, if slightly less elegant, idea. You’ll need bubble wrap, scissors, a spray bottle full of water and some double-sided tape:

• Measure each window pane and cut bubble wrap to fit, using scissors.
• Moisten the glass by spraying it with water.
• Press the bubble wrap onto the moistened glass. Electrostatic attraction should make it stick.
• Secure the bubble wrap with double-sided tape if it fails to stick to the wet surface.
• Remove the bubble wrap by grasping a corner and pulling it off.

About the Experts

• Jeff Palla is president of Mr. Handyman, a Neighborly company. His 25 years of experience include district manager for Bridge Street Accommodations and multi-unit general manager for Red Roof Inn.
• Jeramy Sibley is president of Glass Doctor, another Neighborly company. It’s a nationwide franchise specializing in window installation and repair.

The post What To Know About Window Insulation appeared first on Family Handyman.

Adding blinds to windows can create subtle and delicate light, eliminate light altogether and give you some privacy. Your needs will inform what type of blinds you want and the best place to mount them.

Typically, if your windows have curtains, you should mount the blinds inside the windowsill. For windows without curtains, mount them outside of the window frame. Each type of blind is measured and mounted differently.

Check out this step-by-step guide to learn how to measure for inside and outside mounting window treatments. But first, some tips:

• Don’t round down — measure to the nearest 1/8-inch;
• Measure the window itself, not the existing blinds (if any);
• When writing your measurements, it’s width, then height (W x H);
• Use a metal measuring tape rather than a cloth one for the most accurate results;
• Once you’ve measured the window frames and chosen the blinds, review the mounting requirements before attempting to install the blinds.

How To Measure For Inside Mount Blinds

Measure the width

For width, measure across the top, through the middle and across the bottom of the frame. Go with narrowest measurement. Since the window might not be perfectly straight, measuring in three locations ensures the blinds fit.

Measure the height

For height, again measure in three spots: to the left, middle and right side. This time, the longest length will ensure the window is completely covered.

Note: You can shorten window blinds if necessary, but save yourself the hassle by ordering them the correct length.

Measure the depth

As with the height, measure the depth of the window in three locations. If the depth is shallow, a mini blind or outside mounting blind may be the best choice.

How To Measure For Outside Mount Blinds

Measure the width and height

For these, measure the width and height of the window including the window trim in three locations like above.

• From those measurements, add about three inches to each to ensure light will be properly blocked.
• Outside mounts need to be placed on about two inches of flat surface, which may mean mounting them above the frame. If this is the case, you may need to purchase projection brackets to create space between the frame molding and the blinds.
• Headrails tend to be about 2-1/2-inches tall, so consider the headrail and mounting brackets when thinking about placement and space needed above the window.

The post How To Measure Windows for Blinds appeared first on Family Handyman.

In an October 9 news release, the FGIA and its subcommittee, the Window Safety Task Force (WSTF), share their top pointers for preventing fires. Review their advice below, then check out our top 12 fire safety tips.

Six Steps to Take for Fire Prevention

Take these steps now to ensure if a fire does break out in the future, you’re prepared.

Make or review a fire escape plan

Creating an escape plan is one of the best ways to ensure you and your family know exactly what to do in a fire. If you’ve never made one before, here’s our fire escape guide.

In short, make sure you identify two exits for every room in your home, one through a door and another through a window. The WSTF advises excluding impact-resistant windows, aka hurricane windows, from your plan, since they’ll be nearly impossible to smash in an emergency.

“Don’t forget to include accommodations for loved one with special needs and necessary actions for cherished pets in your plan, as well,” says WSTF co-chair Angela Dickinson.

Practice your fire escape plan 

When practicing, remove all obstructions from windows and doors and make sure all your windows open properly; breaking glass should be the last resort in an emergency.

If you have a safe ladder to get out of your windows — which is advised! — practice using it ahead of time. The WSTF also suggests practicing at night as well as during the day, since many home fires occur after dark.

Identify potential hazards

Extension cords, space heaters and gas water heaters are all potential fire hazards. Keep portable electronics unplugged when not in use, and at least three feet away from flammable items like curtains or clothing.

Ensure your smoke alarms work

Smoke alarms save lives, so it’s imperative yours work properly. The National Fire Prevention Agency (NFPA) suggests checking them every month and replacing them every ten years.

To help you remember, replace the batteries in your smoke alarms whenever you change your clocks for daylight savings time. Consider writing the “last checked” date on your actual smoke alarm as well.

Stock up on fire extinguishers

Be sure to keep at least one fire extinguisher in your home, and preferably several. They should be regularly inspected and maintained and easily accessible, within 75 feet of any point. Make sure everyone in your household knows how to use a fire extinguisher properly.

Consult local building codes

If you’re remodeling your home, the WSTF suggests checking all local building codes to ensure your windows are fire-safe. You can even build specific emergency windows, called egresses.

If you’re planning on installing window guards or fall prevention devices, make sure they comply with ASTM F2090, ensuring people can escape if needed in an emergency.

The post Why This Is the Week to Review Your Fire Safety Plans appeared first on Family Handyman.

During a hurricane, strong winds can lift debris and hurl it through the air at high speeds. When it strikes windows, flying shards of shattered glass pose a hazard to anyone in the vicinity. And with the glass gone, there’s nothing to stop the wind and rain from damaging the inside of the structure. Hurricane windows can prevent all that.

What Are Hurricane Windows?

Windows designed to stand up to hurricane-force winds and flying debris.

Instead of a single pane, hurricane windows feature two panes of tempered or laminated glass, bonded to a central layer of clear polymer (usually polyvinyl butyral). The glass shatters when struck by a projectile. But instead of flying in all directions, it clings to the central plastic layer, which remains intact to seal out wind and rain.

Hurricane windows come with strong frames, usually wood or steel. Some budget-friendly windows may have vinyl or aluminum frames. To provide the maximum level of protection, hurricane windows need to be professionally installed.

Hurricane Windows vs. Impact Windows: What’s the Difference?

Hurricane-resistant and impact-resistant windows are almost the same thing. The difference: Hurricane windows must meet building codes in hurricane-prone areas. They undergo one of two tests, depending on where they’re placed on a building.

Windows installed below 35 feet above ground must withstand the impact of a 2×4 fired at the glass from a cannon at around 50 feet per second. Those above 35 feet are tested differently, with a large number of ball bearings fired at the glass. Two tests are needed because the force of debris in the air during a hurricane varies with altitude.

Hurricane windows sold in Florida must be approved by the state or Broward and Miami-Dade Counties. The latter two, in South Florida, carry more stringent requirements because hurricanes in that region, known as the High Velocity Hurricane Zone (HVHZ), are stronger than anywhere else.

Hurricane windows in other states don’t have to conform to Florida standards. But if they do, it’s a selling point.

Types of Hurricane Windows

Each hurricane window receives a design pressure (DP) rating based on the maximum pressure differential it can withstand. It’s a complex formula that corresponds to storm intensity.

A DP rating of 10 should withstand a Category 1 hurricane (maximum wind speed 95 mph). A 20 rating should withstand a Category 2, and so on, up to DP 5 for a Category 5 storm (maximum wind speed exceeding 157 mph).

Hurricane windows are available in seven formats, including:

• Single-hung;
• Double-hung;
• Bay;
• Sliding/rolling;
• Picture/fixed;
• Casement;
• Skylight.

Dealers stock windows in standard sizes, designated by a four-number code. A standard 24- by 36-inch bedroom window bears the code 2436. Most dealers also accept orders for non-standard sizes.

Benefits of Hurricane Windows

If you live in hurricane country, the benefit is obvious. There’s no need to add storm shutters or cover your windows with plywood, which Floridians turned to in the past when storms approached. There are other benefits as well.

• Noise reduction: Hurricane windows are thicker than conventional single-pane windows, making your house quieter.
• UV protection: The laminated glass, as well as the central polymer layer, naturally filter out harsh sunlight, even without a UV-blocking film.
• Energy efficiency: Hurricane windows provide better thermal insulation than regular ones.
• Home security: Windows that can withstand a hurricane can also stand up to intruders trying to break them and get into your house.

The No. 1 drawback to hurricane windows is the expense. They’re not only costly to purchase and install, but more costly than conventional windows to replace if they do break. Besides that, design options are more limited than conventional windows.

Cost of Hurricane Windows

The average cost to equip an entire home with hurricane windows is around $8,000. The factors that influence costs include:

• Window size and location: It costs more in labor to install windows in upper stories.
• Frame material: Wood is the most expensive, and aluminum the cheapest.
• Special features: Adding stabilizer bars or low-emissivity glass costs more.
• Permits: These costs vary from place to place but are generally between $50 and $200.

Homeowners in hurricane hotspots can save money on installation by doing it during the off-season.

The post Everything You Need to Know About Hurricane Windows appeared first on Family Handyman.

Tough question. New windows are tempting because they offer so much—smoother operation, lower maintenance, energy savings, fewer drafts and easier cleaning. But they’re expensive, and pros charge almost as much as the cost of the windows to install them, which is a major investment.

Repair or Buy Replacement Windows?

Ask yourself the following three questions to evaluate your old windows and weigh the benefits of new ones.

Are Your Old Windows a Hassle?

Are you sick and tired of nursing your windows along, or are you OK with the minor maintenance jobs that go along with them? Consider:

• Ease of operation: Do they lift, swing or slide easily, or do you hesitate to open them when you want ventilation?
• Scraping and painting: Painted windows require regular maintenance. Otherwise they’ll rot and fall apart. New windows with aluminum or vinyl cladding or that are made from vinyl or a composite eliminate this chore.
• Condensation: Does condensation regularly collect on the glass, cloud the view and soak the window trim? Higher-efficiency glass in new windows will help reduce this problem.
• Storm windows: Do you mind cleaning, maintaining and putting up and taking down storm windows? Do your storms need replacement?
• Cleaning: Is this so difficult that you avoid doing it? Many new windows are designed to make cleaning a snap.

Are Your Old Windows Comfortable?

Single-pane windows often leave rooms feeling chilly and dry in cold weather and overheated in warm, sunny weather. Windows with double-pane glass can greatly improve the comfort of your home. They can block much of the heat of direct sunlight but still allow the light to come through (less need for shades).

They’ll reduce cold drafts and the chill of cold glass. And they’ll reduce condensation so you can keep the indoor humidity at a higher, more comfortable level in cold weather. New energy-efficient windows will also save on your fuel bills but rarely enough to justify the investment if your old windows are still in good shape.

Are Your Old Windows Worth Repairing?

You can almost always repair and restore old windows if you’re willing to set aside the time and can find replacement hardware. But it’s not always worth the effort and expense. Major problems include:

• Rot: Once rot starts, it’s tough to stop unless you commit yourself to replacing rotted wood (a difficult job) and then maintaining it regularly. Consider replacement.
• Sagging casement (crank-out) windows: You can usually replace worn-out crank mechanisms, but bent or worn hinges are tougher and replacements don’t always solve the problem. Consider new windows.
• Fogged double-pane glass: The fogging that occurs between the glass panes can’t be fixed. Glass replacement (sometimes the entire sash) is the only solution. This is often difficult and it’s expensive if a pro does it. Compare the “fix-it” cost with the cost of a new window.
• Hard-to-find replacement hardware: Call the window manufacturer or local window dealer if you can identify the window brand and model number. Many hard-to-find parts are available from online suppliers. But often new windows are the only option.

What’s the Best Way to Replace My Windows?

The easiest way to replace windows is to remove the old sashes and slip a window insert into the old frame. You get the benefits of high-efficiency glass, weather-tightness and a maintenance-free exterior with minimal impact on the appearance of your home.

To start the process, simply measure the frame and order a new wood or vinyl unit to fit it. This always works for double-hung (slide up and down) windows but only sometimes for casements (crank out) and sliding windows. A window dealer will advise you on your options. Or you can opt for sash replacement, which works for double-hungs only.

You can complete the changeout this way in about an hour per window (or much less after learning the ropes on the first one!). But this approach has several drawbacks. The old frame must be rot-free and reasonably square. And you still have to maintain the exterior wood frame and trim.

A second option is to completely tear out the old window and frame and put in a new one. You usually have to go this route with casement and slider windows. This project takes longer and is more difficult because you have to remove the exterior and interior trim, make the new window weathertight and then replace the trim. Plan on spending a whole day per window.

On the plus side, this method allows you to start fresh with a new, weathertight, low-maintenance window. And you have the option of reframing the opening and changing the window size while you’re at it.

Keep in mind that complications can arise if your old window doesn’t have exterior trim. Sometimes brick, stucco, vinyl siding or other siding materials butt right up against the window frame. In these situations, you may have to remove or cut siding to get the old window out and the new one in, and then patch or restore siding to finish up.

Should I Replace Them All at Once?

Balance your home’s appearance with your budget. Even if you try for a close match, new windows will probably look a bit different from the old. And even the glass itself (we recommend the low-E) usually looks somewhat different from clear glass. So replacing one or two in a conspicuous area may look bad. Here’s why you should opt for low-E window film.

One good strategy is to replace all the windows on one side (or level if you have a two-story house) to retain a consistent appearance. Often the windows on one side of a house deteriorate much faster than the others.

How Do I Know I’m Getting a Good-Quality Window?

• Appearance: Imagine the windows in your home. Does the style of the windows blend well on the interior and exterior? Are the wood or vinyl joints well made? Do the muntins (grids that divide the glass) fit tightly and cleanly? Is the hardware attractive? Unless you’re trying to match existing window colors, choose a low-maintenance exterior (such as vinyl or aluminum) so you’ll never have to scrape and touch up the paint.
• Operation: Try out the display windows. Do they open and close smoothly? Are the cranks, runners and locking devices solid and do they look as though they’ll withstand heavy use? Does the window latch firmly without too much effort? Does the weatherstripping fit snugly? Are the screens solidly built and easy to remove?
• Cleaning: If cleaning is a priority, can you easily reach both interior and exterior glass? Remove or rotate the sashes to test them.
• Service: Are parts available if something should break or wear out? Can you replace the weatherstripping when it wears out? Both these questions favor window companies with long track records because they’ll likely serve their customers well into the future. If the glass breaks or fogs, how difficult and costly is replacement?
• Warranties: Compare the warranties for parts and finishes. Probably the most frustrating (and expensive) problem is the failure of the seal between doublepane glass and the resulting fogging. Look for a warranty that covers glass replacement up to 20 years. Note: Keep the receipt for your window purchase and the warranty in your records.
• Glass selection: Energy-efficient double-pane glass is fairly standard now. But it’s almost always worth paying a bit extra for two additional features: a low-E coating and argon gas between the panes. Most manufacturers have two variations of this type of glass, one designed for cold climates and one designed to control sunlight in warmer climates. If you spend more for air conditioning than for heating, choose the warm-climate type, and if you spend more for heating, choose the cold-climate type.

How Much Do New Windows Cost?

The cost of new windows can vary significantly based on several factors. The type of window, material, size, and installation complexities all contribute to the overall expense. Generally, standard vinyl windows are among the most budget-friendly options.

Factors like energy efficiency, glazing, and additional features such as grids or custom shapes can further influence costs. Installation expenses also play a vital role. Overall, for an average-sized home, homeowners might anticipate spending anywhere from $3,000 to $10,000 or even more for a complete window replacement.

The post Should You Buy New Windows? A Complete Guide appeared first on Family Handyman.

Double-glazed windows came on the market in 1952. Today, a little more than half of American homes have them. You’re more likely to find them in the Midwest, where winters are really cold and least likely to find them in the South.

Because they prevent heat transfer and reduce energy costs, double-glazed windows are a sound investment. Here’s what you need to know.

What Is a Double-Glazed Window?

By itself, glass isn’t a good insulator — its R-value is less than one. However, when you install two panes of glass with a sealed gap between them, you increase the insulation value of the window up to five times, depending on the gas that fills the gap. That’s the principle of double-glazed (aka double-pane) windows.

A double-glazed window comes pre-manufactured in a frame of wood, composite or some other non-thermally conducting material. The frame includes spacers that keep the panes separated by a quarter to half an inch. Manufacturers usually replace the air in the gap with an inert gas like argon, xenon or krypton.

Krypton is preferred because it insulates the best and won’t dissipate through the glass. To keep the gas contained, the panes must be well sealed against the frame. If the seal breaks and moist air gets into the gap, the window turns cloudy. The only remedy is to replace it.

Benefits of Double-Glazed Windows

Double-glazed windows can make a big difference in energy efficiency, but they aren’t for every home. Because they’re pre-manufactured, they can look out of place in an older structure. Moreover, if the structure isn’t well insulated, they won’t save much in energy costs.

Focusing on the positive, here are some of the main benefits of double-glazed windows:

• Thermal insulation: You install double-glazed windows to prevent heat transfer through the glass. That way your HVAC system doesn’t work as hard to maintain the climate in the house, and your energy bills go down.
• Sound insulation: A double-glazed window absorbs sounds from the outside and creates a quieter indoor space. This can make everyone in the house feel more comfortable.
• Security: If an intruder tries to get into your house, they’ll have a tougher time breaking through two panes of glass than a single pane. Windows made with tempered or laminated glass are even more secure.
• Reduced condensation: The temperature differential between the inside and outside of a double-glazed window is smaller than a single-pane window. That means there’s less chance of indoor moisture condensing on the window and promoting mold growth.

The main drawback with double-glazed windows? They aren’t repairable. If the glass cracks or the gas leaks out, the only option is to replace the window. And double-glazed windows aren’t cheap.

How Much Do Double-Glazed Windows Cost?

On average, around $1,000 per unit installed, but there’s a wide cost range from $300 to $6,900. This is due to a number of factors.

Window size

The larger the window, the more expensive it is. Here are some typical prices, according to size, with installation included.

• Small (bathroom, basement or kitchen single-hung windows): $300 to $750.
• Medium (standard single- and double-hung windows): $400 to $1,850.
• Large (bay and picture windows): $650 to $4,500.

Frame material

Fiberglass and steel tend to be the most expensive materials. Composite and wood are next. Vinyl and aluminum are budget choices that cost 30% to 50% less than the most expensive ones.

Window style

Double-hung windows with two movable sashes are most expensive, followed by single-hung, bay and sliding windows. Each could cost in excess of $3,000 installed. Casement and picture windows are a comparative bargain, with prices around half as much.

Type of glass and gas

Most people go with clear-tempered or laminated glass, which cost about the same. Choosing frosted glass or e-coating adds a little over $100 per window unit. The most common fill gas — argon — also happens to be the least expensive. Expect to add about $300 per window if you choose krypton.

DIY vs. Pro Installation of Double-Glazed Windows

Installing double-glazed windows yourself is definitely possible. But it isn’t recommended, primarily because manufacturers tend to make professional installation a condition of the warranty.

You also have to think about the building permit. You’ll need one if you change the size of the window opening.

If you have the relevant building skills, there’s nothing to stop you from getting the permit and doing the work yourself. Don’t forget you’re paying premium prices for the windows, though, and the security of a workmanship warranty may help you sleep better.

The post Homeowner’s Guide To Double-Glazed Windows appeared first on Family Handyman.

Whether you’re renting or own a home, learning how to caulk a window will save you time and money. For the expense of a tube of caulk and a smooth rod caulk gun, you could reduce your air conditioning or heating use, keep pesky bugs out and prevent moisture from entering your home.

If you’ve never DIY’d anything, this is also a great place to start. It’s fairly easy and will give you confidence to take on other projects!

Make sure to examine the caulking on your windows after your first year in a new home. As the home settles, the caulking could shift, losing its integrity and allowing moisture in. For older homes, it’s important to renew the window caulking every few years to make sure it hasn’t deteriorated.

Either way, replacing caulking is something you’ll do throughout the life of your home. Here’s what to know.

How to choose the right type of caulk

As you examine your home, check the caulking on the inside and the outside of the window. The location determines what type of caulk you’ll need.

Here are a few types to choose from. Some are more resistant to moisture, making them suitable for sealing outdoors. Others might break down faster if exposed to water, but expand better and can be painted. So be sure to choose the right caulk for the job.

Here are a few examples to consider:

Silicone caulk (indoor/outdoor use)

Pros

• Durable;
• Water resistant;
• Weatherproof;
• Mold resistant;
• Top choice for outdoor surfaces.

Cons

• Some types can’t be painted; check the label.
• Doesn’t adhere to every surface.

Polyurethane caulk (outdoor only)

Pros

• Adheres to all types of materials;
• Paintable.

Cons

• Breaks down when exposed to sunlight; paint over it so it lasts longer.

Siliconized latex caulk (indoor/outdoor)

Pros

• Can be painted;
• Works well in humid rooms;
• Flexible with temperature changes.

Cons

• Can be damaged if constantly exposed to rough weather.

Acrylic latex caulk (indoor)

Pros

• Durable;
• Low odor;
• Cleans up with water;
• Expands into the seam;
• Paintable, or comes in various colors.

Cons

• Not weather resistant.

Caulking guns

The smooth rod caulk gun will be your new best friend, making applying caulk easy peasy. A midrange gun should be fine. Unless it’s a major project, you probably don’t need a high end electric model. But don’t go with a cheap one that might break before you finish your project.

Now that you have your caulk and gun, let’s get started!

How to remove old caulk

If you’re dealing with moldy, old, or deteriorating exterior caulk, be sure to remove ALL of it before applying new caulk.

• Scrape off the old caulk with a utility knife, putty knife or a caulk removal tool.
• Clean the surface with rubbing alcohol.
• Let that surface dry completely. If any moisture remains, mold could form under the new caulk.

Prep the surface

• If indoors, apply painter’s tape above and below where the caulk will go. That creates a clean line so you apply the caulk exactly where you should.

Open caulk tube

• If your project requires thin lines, use a scissors or utility knife to cut the tip off the caulking tube at a 45-degree angle.
• For fatter lines, cut the nozzle closer to the tube.
  • Pro tip: There’s a hole in the gun on the side to snip off the tip, but it can be tricky to use. Only do it if you need a larger line and don’t mind cutting off a bit more.
• Finally, use the thin metal rod attached to the caulk gun to pierce the inner seal. If there isn’t one, a nail works fine.

Load caulk gun

• Typically, smooth rod caulk guns have a metal trigger on the back. While pressing it down, pull back the L shaped rod (rotated to point down) as far as you can.
• Insert the tube by placing the nozzle into the hole at the face of the gun, then pressing the flat base of the tube to the back of the gun.
• Pull the trigger until the base plate of the rod is firmly against tube.

Test your skill

• Practice using the caulk gun on a piece of paper or cardboard.
• Squeeze the trigger, moving down the line at a 45-degree angle and a consistent pace. If you go too slowly, the caulk might clump up. Too fast, and areas might not be covered.
• Make sure to bend at the elbow and keep your wrist steady.
• Start away from your body and draw the line of caulk towards you.
• If the line is too small, cut it again.

Once you have the hang of it, go ahead and start caulking!

Caulk window

• Make sure to point the tip towards the seam.
• Don’t make the common caulking mistake of trying to run a continuous bead from corner to corner. Start away from your body at the farthest corner and move the line toward you.
• Once you reach the middle of the window, stop and turn around to the other side. Start at the other corner and pull the line towards your body again to meet the already created line in the middle.
• Remember to bend at your elbows and keep your wrist steady.
• Do this for all four sides.

Finishing step

• For a beautiful finish, dip your finger in water and run it over the caulk.
• This will also push the caulk into the joint and make sure the seal is tight and smooth.
• When finished, wipe the caulk off your finger with the wet rag.

Pro tip: Start running your finger ahead of the caulk a bit, then keep going. This will keep the line smooth from start to finish.

If the caulk ever becomes too thick at one point, run a wet finger through the line to remove the excess. If you don’t, that edge or bump will show up when you paint over it.

Let it dry

• Remove the painter’s tape.
• Check the recommended drying time on the caulking tube, then let it dry.

Fantastic! Now your window is prepped for all kinds of weather.

The post How to Caulk Windows appeared first on Family Handyman.

Can Birds See Glass?

The short answer is no, birds cannot easily see glass. This is not a matter of species or time of day— it’s a fundamental aspect of how birds perceive their environment. To birds, glass appears invisible or reflective depending on lighting conditions and the angle of view. When it’s invisible, birds simply don’t realize there’s a barrier in their flight path. When it’s reflective, they see it as more open space or a continuation of the surrounding environment, which can be equally misleading.

Why Do Birds Hit Windows?

Birds hit windows primarily because they don’t perceive glass as a solid barrier. Brian Cunningham, Director of Outreach and Nature Education for Wild Birds Unlimited, Inc, explains it like this:

“Birds have trouble recognizing glass windows around our homes or buildings as a barrier until, like people, they learn it is not a passage. They can mistake the window’s reflection of the sky or yard for safe passage.”

They either don’t see it at all, or they see reflections of the sky, trees or other appealing habitats. This misperception is due to the fact that birds’ vision is primarily adapted for distance and motion detection, not for discerning reflections or transparent surfaces. Another contributing factor is the time of year.

“The research I know of about seasonality of window strikes suggests that spring and fall are the worst times of the year, because not only are there resident birds that can collide, but there are also migrants on the move at those times.,” says Emma Greig, Ph.D., from the Cornell Lab of Ornithology and Project FeederWatch.

How To Make Windows and Doors More Visible to Birds

Making windows and glass doors more visible to birds can significantly reduce the number of fatal bird strikes. This protects your feathered friends and prevents potential damage to your property.

Here are some strategies:

Use window decals

Window decals are an easy and cost-effective solution. These stickers adhere to the glass and create a visual barrier that birds can see. They come in various shapes and sizes, from bird silhouettes to more decorative designs.

The key to using decals effectively is to place them close enough together so that birds don’t perceive the space between them as a possible route. A good rule of thumb is to place them no more than two to four inches apart if you’re trying to deter small birds, and no more than four to six inches apart for larger birds.

Install bird-safe glass

Bird-safe glass is designed with a pattern that is visible to birds but barely noticeable to humans. This pattern is created by applying a special coating to the glass that reflects ultraviolet light, which birds can see but humans cannot.

While bird-safe glass can be a more expensive option, it’s highly effective and doesn’t alter the appearance of your windows significantly from a human perspective. It’s an excellent choice if you’re building a new home or planning to replace your windows.

Apply window films or screens

Window films or screens can be applied to the exterior of windows, creating a visual and physical barrier that birds can detect. They also have the added benefit of reducing heat and glare inside your home, which can help lower your energy costs.

Window films, such as window tinting or low-e films, are typically transparent and have patterns that are visible to birds. Screens, on the other hand, add a layer of texture to the window that birds can easily see and avoid. Both options are relatively easy to install and can be removed without damaging the window.

Hang objects outside the window

Hanging objects such as wind chimes, sun catchers or even strips of brightly colored tape can deter birds. The movement and reflections these objects create can signal to birds that there’s a solid barrier ahead.

This method can be particularly effective if you have a problem with birds hitting a specific window. The objects not only break up the reflection on the glass but also add a bit of decorative flair to your home.

The post Can Birds See Glass Windows and Doors? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Another common way to restore old windows is replacing the sash cords. Connected to weights that sit in cavities on each side of the window, these cords allow you to raise the window and hold it in place so it doesn’t come crashing down.

Over time, these cords wear out, so it’s important to replace them with the correct type of cord. Norbert Rodriguez, owner of Quaint Milwaukee Window Restoration, recommends a 3/8-inch cord unless your older home has extremely heavy windows. If your window is 60 to 80 pounds, go with a 1/2-inch cord or chain.

The two weights already in the sashes are probably the right ones. To double check, weigh the sash by placing it on a scale, then make sure the two weights total that of the sash. So if your sash is 14 pounds, each weight should be seven pounds.

Here’s how to replace a broken sash cord.

Remove the sash

To remove the sash, take off the front stops (they’re usually screwed in). Start by scoring paint lines or caulk with a utility knife. Remove the stops with a moulding pry bar. You may need a rubber mallet to wedge the pry bar between sash and stops.

Disconnect sash cords

Detach sash cords from the sash. Remove the lower sash from the window frame first, then the upper sash.

Access sash weights

Use a screwdriver to open and remove the doors on each side of the cavities to access the weights. Remove both weights.

Attach sash cords to weights

To feed the new sash cord through the pulley system down the cavity, attach something small to the end of the cord so it doesn’t get stuck. Pull the cord through, then tie the end to the sash weight. Let the remaining end of the cord hang to about the meeting rail and cut it.

Repeat on the other side. Close up the doors of the weight cavities with a screwdriver.

Attach cords to the sash

Pull on the cords so there’s tension and the weights go up near the very top. Line up the cords to the sash. Attach both cords by tying knots at the ends and placing them into cord slots on each side of the sash. Drive a screw or staple through the knot so the cords stay in the slots. Cut off excess cords.

Mount front stops

Reinstall the front stops with screws and test out the window.

The post How to Replace a Window Sash Cord appeared first on Family Handyman.

Best Overall Window Air Conditioner

Midea Smart Inverter Window Air Conditioner

Super quiet, energy efficient, leak-resistant, easy to install and tech-compatible are just some of the words that describe the Midea Smart Inverter. We could keep talking about why it’s one of the best window air conditioners, but we’d be here a while.

The most important thing to know: This window air conditioner can be turned on and off with Amazon Alexa. Plus, it has the all-important Energy Star certification that meets the strictest energy standards while still keeping you cool all summer. The anti-theft mechanism locks your closed window giving your home an extra layer of security.

Pros

• More than 12,000 five-star Amazon ratings
• Great bang-for-your-buck
• Quieter than most air conditioners
• Energy-efficient
• Compatible with Amazon Alexa

Cons

• iOS and Android apps are clunky

379.9913% OFF$331.80 at Amazon

Best Budget Window Air Conditioner

TCL 5WR1-A Home Series Window Air Conditioner

If you’re OK with a window air conditioner with mechanical control knobs, then the TCL Home Series is our recommendation. Setup is simple with the easy installation kit, and it is overall pretty energy-efficient, though it lacks an Energy Star certification.

This small but mighty air conditioner is backed by more than 1,500 perfect five-star Amazon ratings and comes with a 30-day money-back guarantee, so you have nothing to lose (but the heat) by giving this affordable air conditioner a shot.

Pros

• Affordable price point
• 5,000 BTU
• Easy installation
• Eight-way cooling and four-way directional vents

Cons

• Only a 150-square-foot coverage area

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Most Customizable Window Air Conditioner

Windmill Window A/C Unit

The Windmill AC can be customized to match your room’s decor, and the exterior has an attractive-looking honeycomb design found on all size options. You can change the room’s temperature via the Windmill app, or connect it to Google Assistant and Amazon Alexa for voice control.

The unit is easy to install and comes with filters that last up to three months, compared to the standard monthly life cycle of most window A/C units. Get an in-depth look at what it’s like to live with this smart AC unit by reading our Windmill Air Conditioner review.

Pros

• Customizable covers
• Honeycomb exterior
• Multiple size options
• App and voice control

Cons

• Only cools up to 250 square feet

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Best Vertical Window Air Conditioner

Koldfront Window Air Conditioner

If your home has casement windows, sometimes called vertical windows, that go left or right rather than up and down, then there’s no better option than the Koldfront Window Air Conditioner. This compact unit packs enough power to cool up to 450 square feet and comes with several energy-saving modes such as sleep and shut-off intervals.

Customer reviews say the installation is straightforward, and the front-facing filters are convenient when it comes time for monthly replacements. Yes, it’s on the pricier side, but you won’t find a better air conditioner for casement windows.

Pros

• Fits most casement windows
• Compact
• Energy efficient
• Cools a large area
• Remote control

Cons

• On the pricier side

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Most Energy Efficient Window Air Conditioner

Whirlpool Window Air Conditioner

On top of having Energy Star certification, the Whirlpool Air Conditioner has a number of energy-saving modes to conserve power on cooler days or during times when you’re not around for a while. The eight-way directional air louvers, or the shutter-like slats on an air conditioner, help disperse the cool air throughout the entire room for a quicker cool-down period. For those in humid climates, this type of air conditioner is also effective at dehumidifying rooms up to 450 square feet.

Pros

• Energy Star certification
• Eco-mode uses less energy
• Programmable 24-hour on/off timer
• Quiet
• Three-speed fan for even air distribution

Cons

• Not app compatible

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Most Quiet Window Air Conditioner

Frigidaire Window Air Conditioner

Most window air conditioners emit around 50 decibels of noise, but the Frigidaire Window Air Conditioner only produces around 41 decibels. That might not seem like a big difference, but it definitely matters if your main priority is a good night’s sleep.

If you need more proof, take a peek at the customer reviews raving about this machine’s efficiency and whisper-quiet operation. Pair it with the Frigidaire app or Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant for easy operation.

Pros

• 41-decibel unit is 20% quieter than most A/C units
• Energy Star certification
• Pairs with Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant
• Available in 8,000, 10,000 and 12,000 BTU options
• Easy-to-clean washable filter

Cons

• Some customers complain about filter issues

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What to Look for When Buying Window Air Conditioner 

Below are our top considerations for shoppers to consider when shopping for a window air conditioner. 

Cooling Capacity (BTU Rating) 

Most air conditioners have a certain number of BTUs or British Thermal Units. To ensure optimal cooling performance, select an air conditioner that offers a minimum of 20 BTUs per square foot of the room where the window unit will be installed. 

• 5,000–8,000 BTUs: for small rooms up to 350 square feet 
• 8,000–12,000 BTUs: for medium rooms between 350 to 550 square feet 
• 12,000–18,000 BTUs: for larger rooms up to 1,000 square feet 

In addition to the room size, consider ceiling height, insulation and sun exposure because these can also affect your cooling needs. 

Energy Efficiency 

A cheaper electric bill is always a good thing, so energy efficiency is worth considering when buying a window AC unit. An efficient model consumes less electricity, which reduces energy bills and lessens its environmental impact. 

Look for units with:

• Energy Star certification: The unit meets government standards for efficiency.

• EER (Energy Efficiency Ratio): The higher this number, the better the efficiency.

Additional features like programmable timers, sleep modes and eco settings help increase energy savings even further, giving you more control over when and how much to cool your space.

Noise Level 

Unless you’re a fan of white noise, the decibel rating (dB) is an important factor to check when choosing a window air conditioner, especially for bedrooms or other quiet spaces. Most AC units make some noise, usually within the 40 to 60 dB range. 

Check for models with insulated compressors or variable-speed fans to reduce sound. Find a unit with a “quiet mode” for reduced noise at night.

Size and Fit 

Measure your window and purchase an air conditioner that fits securely. The unit should be slightly smaller than the window opening so you can fit installation hardware and sealing strips around the edges. Many models come with adjustable side panels and installation kits for a custom fit. The important part is to prevent air leaks, which affect the air conditioner’s efficiency. Also, check the unit’s weight and ensure your window frame can support it. 

Features and Controls 

Many window AC units come with additional features and controls. 

• Thermostat control: This allows you to set your preferred room temperature, which makes unit run more efficiently, as it turns on and off as needed.

• A remote control adjusts settings anywhere in the room. 

• Programmable timer: This lets you schedule the air conditioner to turn on and off at specific days and times. It optimizes energy use and cools the room.

• Multiple fan speeds provide better control over airflow and noise level.

• Dehumidifier mode: Some models can help reduce moisture levels in the air, which is handy in humid areas.

Air Quality Features 

Window air conditioners can improve indoor air quality by filtering dust, allergens and other pollutants. Many units come with washable or replaceable filters that trap particles, while some advanced models include HEPA filters or activated carbon filters to help with air purification and odor removal. Stay on top of replacing filters. Regular maintenance is crucial to ensure your filters work.

Price and Warranty 

A window air conditioner’s price can vary widely, depending on the features, cooling capacity and brand you’re looking for. A budget model can cost as little as $200, while high-end units can cost $600 or more. You’ll pay extra for advanced features like smart controls, energy-saving modes and smart air filtration. 

Look for a unit with a good warranty. These typically range from one to five years and protect the unit against potential defects. 

Maintenance and Cleaning 

Regular maintenance and cleaning are key to keeping your window air conditioner running efficiently. This involves cleaning or replacing the air filter every one to two months and cleaning the coils every now and then to prevent dust buildup. It’s also important to check for any mold or mildew that may be forming. Some units include indicator lights to let you know when it’s time to clean or replace the filter.

Safety Features 

Many window AC units include automatic shutoff features to prevent overheating or in case of a fault. If you have kids at home, a child lock feature can prevent accidental changes to settings. 

In terms of installation, a secure mounting bracket ensures the unit is securely in place and won’t tip over or fall. The power cord length is also worth noting to ensure it comfortably reaches your outlet. 

Types of Air Conditioners

• Window air conditioners: As their name suggests, window air conditioners are installed in windows. They are often used to cool bedrooms or small living areas. Some even have modern technology, such as Amazon Alexa compatibility.
• Portable air conditioners: Portable air conditioners are free-standing or wheeled units that are plugged into a wall outlet. They’re good for cooling small areas or when traveling, but they are not the most energy-efficient.
• Wall-hung air conditioners: These units are hung on the wall to cool areas like basements. They’re some of the most energy-efficient units but require vents to the outside.
• Multi-head split system air conditioners: If your family can’t agree on the temperature, split systems allow one person to feel like they’re in the Arctic and the other to feel like they’re on a deserted island.

Why You Should Trust Us  

Anthony O’Reilly is a decorated journalist and photographer who became an expert product tester in 2019. He writes reviews for Flipboard, U.S. News and World Report and Pillar4 Media.

Paul Rankin, Content Updates Editor at Taste of Home, updated and contributed research to this article. Paul is a former commerce editor at Bob Vila and has written shopping guides since 2021.

How We Found the Best Window Air Conditioners 

To curate our list of top window air conditioners, we evaluated models based on essential factors like cooling capacity, energy efficiency, noise levels, and additional features such as smart controls or timers. We also analyzed hands-on customer reviews to gauge real-world performance and reliability. Our selection spans a range of price points, from high-end units with advanced features and powerful cooling to budget-friendly options that offer basic functionality without compromising on efficiency. This approach ensures that we recommend the best models for various needs and budgets.

FAQ  

Which AC is best in Windows? 

Several air conditioners are designed specifically for windows. Our favorite is the Midea Smart Inverter Window AC unit. It’s quiet, energy efficient and can be controlled remotely via a smartphone app. 

Is it better to run a window AC or central air? 

This depends on the size of the space you’re trying to cool. If you only want to cool down a single room, a window unit will do the trick for cheaper. Central air can be more efficient and cost-effective if you have an entire building or multiple rooms.

How many BTU do I need for window AC? 

Most shopping and energy experts agree that 20 BTUs per square foot is a good rule of thumb.

What is the best BTU for a bedroom air conditioner?

A 300-square-foot room needs an air conditioner with at least 6,000 BTUs, though a more powerful unit with 8,000 BTUs is never a bad idea.

How big of a room will 8,000 BTU cool?

An air conditioner with 8,000 BTUs cools a room as large as 400 square feet, around the average size of a living room.

The post 6 Best Window Air Conditioners to Cool Every Room appeared first on Family Handyman.

To save some money and keep some perfectly good products out of the landfill, you can purchase windows from a re-use company that sells recycled building materials. Some were salvaged or mis-ordered. And some are new materials that, for one reason or another, were never used.

If the windows have been previously installed, you may need to order replacement parts like nailing flanges and hardware from the manufacturer. And you might not find a matching set of all the windows you’re looking for, so you’ll likely make some compromises there.

You may also need to add extension jambs to the window to meet the depth of your framing.

As long as you have all the necessary window parts, the process of installing previously used windows is no different than installing new windows and flashing.

Frame the Window Opening

Frame the window openings as you’re framing the walls.

To find the size of the openings, measure the windows and add 1-1/2-inches to the width and height. This leaves space on all sides of the windows to plumb and level with shims, as well as insulation.

Install the Sill and Sill Tape

Cut a piece of cedar bevel siding to fit the windowsill. Set it in place with the thin edge towards the exterior. This way, if any moisture does get in around the window, it’ll flow outward.

Tape the sill using flexible sill tape, extending about six inches up each side. Tape the seams where the sheathing meets the studs with window flashing tape.

Shim the Sill

Level 3/4-inch thick shims on the sill.

Set the Window in Place

With a helper, set the window into place on the shims. Apply silicone to the flange, then tip the window into the opening.

Level and Secure the Window

With one person inside with a level and one outside with a hammer and roofing nails, fasten the window to the sheathing.

Level the sill and nail the two bottom corners of the flange. Then plumb the sides and nail the top corners. Use a straightedge on the jambs as you’re nailing off the flange, shimming the jambs as need to keep them perfectly straight.

Tape the Flanges with Flashing Tape

Tape over the nailing flanges with window flashing tape. On the inside, drive trim head screws through the jambs into the studs to firmly secure the windows.

Add Extension Jambs

If you need to add extension jambs, pre-build them before installing instead of installing one board at a time. This approach ensures the extension jamb is square and makes installation a breeze. Just set the assembled jamb in place and fasten it to the framing.

Finish by installing the interior window trim.

The post How to Install Recycled Windows appeared first on Family Handyman.

Venus Slope Door Awning

The scroll detail on this awning provides a stylish addition to a piece that has function at the forefront. This rust-resistant awning is up for year-round use and designed to transmit more than 90% sunlight while blocking UV rays, rain and snow (loads up to 20 pounds). Its metal frame and polycarbonate cover can stand up to 55 miles per hour winds and has a three-year limited warranty.

If you’re looking for a front door awning idea that won’t block light but will elevate your front door style, this is it.

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Lily Dome Door Awning

Whether you have a stunning stucco exterior that you don’t want to cover up, or you’re looking for a front door awning idea that will set your entry apart from the rest of the neighborhood, this domed awning might be the ticket.

Marry form and function in a way that will have pedestrians stopping to take it all in. The DIY kit includes a smart locking system with panels that easily slide into place. Powder-coated galvanized brackets with loads of charming detail and clear panels are designed to stand up to the elements, and all hardware is included and can be used on concrete, brick, or block materials.

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Metal Standing Seam Door Awning

Three matte colors (black, bronze and gray) and a wide variety of sizes make this metal door awning an elegant choice for those looking to create a more modern front door look. The fixed aluminum frame and stainless steel hardware provide a sturdy structure that can deal with high winds, snow and rain without issue or concern.

Additionally, the manual comes with step-by-step instructions suited for both professionals and beginner DIYers. It’s fit for installation on various materials such as wood, stone, stucco and brick.

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New Yorker Entry Awning

This highly-rated valance window and door awning is suitable for any homeowner, thanks to its patented modular awning framework that makes installation a breeze. The commercial-grade aluminum frame is designed to withstand both strong wind and heavy snow loads without warping under pressure. This front door awning idea will give your home a fresh new look with its acrylic fabric that comes in various colors, patterns and size options.

The unit comes with wall-mount z-brackets, but you’ll need to purchase mounting anchors separately. Replacement fabric covers and additional parts are available for purchase separately should you need replacements down the road.

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Vingli Awning Door Canopy

Give your front door a modern look with this polycarbonate manual cover designed to filter UV rays and keep rain and snow off you and your entry. Choose from black brackets with brown boards, black brackets with a transparent sheet, black brackets with a clear board, or silver brackets with a clear board.

Each canopy comes with all the hardware you’ll need for the job. The rust- and corrosion-resistant materials are designed to last, but should you find any issues with your new awning, contact Vingli with your issue and include photos.

$35.99 at Amazon

Aleko Awning Canopy

Need to add a punch of color to your curb appeal? Consider this front door awning idea that features a retractable door canopy in various shades and striped patterns.

It’s designed to fit most doors, including sliding doors, and can be assembled in under an hour thanks to thorough instructions and pre-drilled holes. Opt for additional accessories like a ceiling mounting bracket or support arms to customize the canopy for your needs and desired look. Additionally, it comes with a one-year limited warranty.

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The post Stylish Front Door Awning and Door Overhang Ideas for the Perfect Welcome appeared first on Family Handyman.

When it comes to buying the perfect curtains for your home, you’ll have plenty of options in color, style, material and price. As great as curtains are, they pose a challenge for perfectionists. Perfectly spacing panel curtains can feel like an impossible task, made especially challenging since the curtain bar is not exactly at eye level. Sure, you could use the broom handle or find the yardstick to help, but we have some easier ways to solve the issue of how to space curtains.

How to Space Your Curtains with Toilet Paper Rolls

@littlepettittpad ✌️ Curtain Spacing Hack have you tried this 🙌 #homehacks #homestylinghacks #curtainshack #homedecorideasuk #homedecortrends #homedecortrends2023 ♬ Cool Kids (our sped up version) – Echosmith

TikTok user @littlepettittpad shared an easy and nearly free hack about how to space curtains with toilet paper rolls. Here’s how to replicate the hack at home.

• Remove the curtain rod and curtains
• Alternate sliding one curtain grommet onto the curtain rod followed by one toilet paper roll. Be sure the toilet paper roll is placed on the back side of the curtain that’ll face the window.
• Repeat on the other side
• Rehang the curtain rod

It’s as simple as that. Best of all, toilet paper rolls are something every household has around.

Other Ways to Space Your Curtains

If you’re not in the mood to wait for enough toilet paper rolls to accumulate before attempting this method, here are some alternatives for how to space curtains.

Use Plastic Pipe

Instead of using toilet paper rolls, you can achieve the same effect by using plastic or PVC piping. Your local hardware store can likely cut it into your desired size—just be sure to choose piping wide enough that it’ll slide onto the curtain rod. Using plastic pipes could even last longer than toilet paper rolls since they’re more durable. Although, you’ll have to invest in some piping rather than reusing something already at home unless you happen to have some lying around.

Use Other Household Cardboard Rolls

In addition to toilet paper, a few other household items come with cardboard rolls in the core. Saving all of them can be a quicker method instead of using just toilet paper rolls. Wrapping paper rolls, lint rollers and paper towel rolls could easily be used instead of or in addition to toilet paper rolls. Just be sure to cut each of them to equal lengths to get evenly spaced curtains.

Use a Foam Pool Noodle or Foam Pipe Covers

A pool noodle or foam pipe cover could also do the trick of getting evenly spaced grommets. For this method, you’ll want to use a pool noodle with a hollow center or head to your local hardware store for some foam pipe covers. Cut the foam to your desired width and slide it between the curtain grommets just like you would if you were using toilet paper rolls.

The post How to Perfectly Space Your Curtains Using Toilet Paper Rolls appeared first on Family Handyman.

This magical mopping tool works on all hard floor surfaces, like tile, laminate and hardwood. It can be used to clean glass shower doors and tall windows, too.

What is the Floor Police Mop?

If a cordless floor map married a robot vacuum, the Floor Police Mop would be their child. This electric mop comes with three types of pads to handle different cleaning jobs. The microfiber pad loosens, lifts and traps dirt; the scrubber pad handles sticky messes and cleans grout; and the polishing pad shines surfaces.

The Floor Police Mop’s pads are self-propelled, turning at a rate of 100 rotations per minute. That speed makes it efficient at cleaning messes, saving you a lot of time and effort. Additionally, the mopping pads are machine washable, so you can use them as often as you want.

This cordless mop runs on a rechargeable lithium-ion battery. Each full charge gives you 90 minutes of cleaning time. Considering how quickly it cleans messes, that’s likely plenty of time to get your floors glistening.

How to Use the Floor Police Mop?

After unboxing the Floor Police Mop, you’ll want to let it fully charge. To remove it from the charger, attach the pads best suited for the cleaning job you’re about to tackle, spray them with floor cleaner and then press the power button.

All you have to do is push the mop over the spots you want to clean and let the self-propelled pads do all the hard work for you. Turn the power off when you’re finished cleaning, throw the pads in the washing machine and enjoy your squeaky-clean floors.

Have any tall windows that need shining? Attach the polishing pads, spray on your window cleaner and lift the mop to where you need it—it only weighs three pounds.

The Best Floor Police Mop Reviews

We’re not the only ones who can’t get enough of the Floor Police Mop. Verified purchaser Linda Addis says it allows her to clean her own floors at the age of 74. She writes, “This makes it easy for me to wash my floors even from my wheelchair!”

Five-star reviewer M. Wright says, “Service and administrative workers with tired hands and wrists should consider how much more likely and often you’ll mop your floors without having to wrestle with mop heads and buckets.”

Verified purchaser Donna Kennedy Adams says she could write volumes about how happy this “wonder mop” makes her. “I’m a former VP & Trainer for a commercial janitorial company. I really ran the Floor Police thru its paces. Preformed as advertised.”

Where to Buy the Floor Police Mop

No, you don’t have to dial 9-1-1 to reach the Floor Police Mop. Simply log onto Amazon and add it to your cart. You may want to pick up an extra set of cleaning pads, too.

$59.99 at Amazon

The post The Floor Police Mop Makes Cleaning All Surfaces Criminally Easy appeared first on Family Handyman.

Before You Start

Adding an egress window is a big job, and it’s important to plan your project to meet the building requirements in your location. Here are the steps I took before starting to excavate:

Apply for a permit

This process could take a few weeks. My city required detailed plans of the well, the dimensions of the window and rough opening, the size of the header and a drawing of the property, including the house.

Engineered drawing

The retaining walls that made up our well were tall enough to require an engineer’s approval. I sent my plans to a local engineer who gave me a new drawing with a stamp of approval to include with my permit ­application. If you buy a manufactured well, this step is likely unnecessary, but your city’s building department makes the final call.

Call the digging hotline

When you’re digging, even just a few inches, call to have underground utilities located and marked.

Digging is dangerous if you don’t know where the utilities are. If you skip this step and hit a gas, water, or power line underground, you’ll risk the lives of yourself and others, and you’ll be on the hook for the costly repairs. So be sure to call 811 before your project. The process varies by state, so call a few days ahead of your project.

Requirements for Egress Windows

Here are the minimum requirements identified by the building code: 

• The opening needs to be 5.7 square feet.
• The minimum width is 20 inches.
• The minimum height is 24 inches. 
• The well needs to provide a clear space of 3-ft. x 3-ft. when the window is open.
• From the inside, the sill height cannot exceed 44 inches

Dig the Window Well

Following my plans, I drew the window well location with marking paint. I rented a mini excavator to make the ­digging much easier. It was well worth the $450 to avoid hand ­digging.

Have a plan for the dirt you’re removing; it will be more than you anticipate. We took the nearly 10 cubic yards of dirt to a nearby compost site.

Add a Drain

Once the well was dug and free of loose dirt, I dug a trench underneath the house and fed a drainpipe to meet the drain tile system. The city required this to prevent water from pooling and then freezing against the house, potentially damaging the foundation.

The drain provides a path for water that collects in the window well to reach the sump pump. Once the drainpipe is in place, fill the well with clean rock. 

Level the Base

Use any remaining loose dirt to create a slope toward the drain. Then cover the bottom surface with geotextile fabric and a two-inch layer of clean rock, leveled and tamped. The fabric keeps the rock from settling into the dirt and causing the entire base to shift.

Pro tip: The rock isn’t “gravel” or “class V.” When I call to order it, I ask for “3/4-in. clean rock.” It’s an angular rock free of silt that could clog the drain. It compacts well, creating a solid base for the retaining wall and a drainage field.

Insulate the Footing

My window is 55 inches tall. To make room for the installation, we dug down closer to the footing than I’d normally like to.

Because we live in an area with freeze/thaw cycles, the footing needed frost protection. My solution: Add two layers of two-inch rigid insulation rated to 25 pounds per square inch (psi). That rating ensures the rock won’t crush the insulation. I cut out a hole to feed the drain through, and positioned the insulation in the bottom of the well.

Add Rock for the Timber Wall Base

I covered the insulation with another layer of fabric, then added eight inches of clean rock on top. The extra layer of fabric will keep the sharp rock from puncturing the insulation. Make sure the rock is level and compact it with a hand tamper.

Line the Well

Before laying the timbers, I lined the well with geotextile fabric. I unrolled the fabric along the dirt walls and folded it over the edges of the hole. The fabric will keep dirt from entering and clogging the drainage space behind the timbers.

Build the Retaining Wall

After you’ve established a level base of clean rock, start building the retaining wall. The first course of timbers must be level along the length and width of the well. You might have to tamp and move rocks to position this first course. Each consecutive course will be placed by alternating the overlapped corners.

As the timbers are stacked, check to be sure they’re plumb or leaning out slightly. Fasten each course to the previous one with an eight-inch coated timber screw every foot.

Brace the End Walls

To keep the ends of the retaining wall from falling in during backfilling, I added a length of steel angle against the foundation, on the inside of the well. I drilled pilot holes with a hammer drill and fastened the angle to the block wall with construction adhesive and 1-1/4-inch concrete screws. The retaining wall needs to shift a bit, so don’t fasten it to the steel angle.

Backfill the Well

Fill the space outside the well with clean rock. The rock lets water drain away from the wall and gives it space to dry, adding longevity to the treated lumber. Leave about four inches of grade at the top to be filled with topsoil.

Cover the Backfill

Fold the rest of the fabric over the rock and tack it to the retaining wall. Then cover the fabric with topsoil, maintaining a slight slope away from the well. The fabric prevents dirt and silt from clogging the drainage space.

Install a Header

Before cutting the hole in the wall, I needed to reinforce the rim joist with a header to span the new opening. I used the header span tables in the International Residential Building Code to determine how many 2x10s I needed to add to support the larger opening.

Using construction adhesive and lag bolts, I fastened two 2x10s, one at a time, to the existing rim joist. Each ply of the new header is eight inches longer than the opening to ensure there’s enough bearing on each side of the opening.

Remodeling Challenges and Solutions: Adding a Drip Ledge

I ran into a challenge where our new well transitions to the stucco siding. My solution was to add a drip ledge above the well. This creates an eave over the window, allowing the water to shed in front of the window instead of onto it. It also makes a smooth transition from the existing stucco to the thicker insulation and cladding I’ll add in the following steps.

Add Flashing

The flashing behind the existing siding and water-resistant barrier is vital. To fit the flashing behind the stucco and felt paper, I lightly pried the layers from the house and cut any nails in the way with an oscillating multi-tool. Once I tucked the flashing behind the stucco, I pressed down on it to slope it away from the house.

Fasten the Ledge

I ripped a cedar 2×6 to about four inches wide and gave it an eight-degree bevel. Then I drilled evenly spaced pilot holes on its edge. I fastened the ledge to the rim joist with six-inch timber screws.

Cut the Window Opening

With the well structure built and the drip ledge and header installed, we were ready to cut the new opening.

I measured my window and added 4-1/4-in. to the total height and width to determine the rough opening size. I transferred those measurements to the block wall. Then, donning a rain poncho, ear and eye protection and a respirator, we carefully cut the block. To keep the chain or blade from binding, we cut the bottom first, then the sides.

Concrete Saw Choices

Circular concrete saw

Typically, you cut a window opening with a circular concrete saw, a large gas-powered tool with a diamond blade and a hose connection. These saws need a constant flow of water to keep the blade cool, and require you to make cuts on both sides of the wall. But making the cut on the inside fills the house with gas fumes and floods the floor. 

Concrete chainsaw

We used a concrete chainsaw instead. The chainsaw made a clean cut all the way through the 12-inch block from the outside, keeping fumes and puddles out of the house.

Install the Window Bucks

Once I removed the cut blocks, I filled the hollow cores of the remaining wall with concrete and fit window bucks around the opening.

I cut 2×12 pressure-treated wood bucks to fit the width of the opening and fastened the top buck to the bottom of the sill plate with screws. Then I leveled the bottom buck with shims, gave it a slight pitch outside and fastened it to the core-filled blocks with concrete anchors.

Note: As you’ll see, I set the bucks proud of the block wall by two inches to line up with a layer of rigid insulation that will be added to the outside of the wall.

Flash the Opening

I used six-inch wide flexible flashing tape to create a window pan. I started by covering the front of the sill, wrapping the tape up the sides about six inches. Then I carefully stretched the tape around the corners and the front of the bucks.

Next, I applied the tape to each side, overlapping the tape on the sill. Finally, I covered the top of the bucks. I made sure to adhere the tape up the block wall, sealing any entry points where water could get inside the framing.

Note: On a normal window, the flashing tape folds around the buck and adheres flat to the block. That seals the gap between the block and the buck. In this application, you seal the gap with caulk and ­protect the wood with flashing tape.

Egress Window Installation

Installing an egress window is no different than any other window. Before placing the window in the opening, apply a continuous bead of silicone along the sides and top of the window bucks as close to the inside edges as you can get. Don’t seal the bottom.

Then, with a helper, set the bottom of the window in the opening and carefully tip the window in until the nailing flange meets the window bucks.

Pro tip: I purchased this window at a builders’ reuse center for a little more than $200. I didn’t mind that it didn’t match the rest of the windows, but I didn’t like the center piece of trim. I removed the trim after the window was installed.

Level and Plumb the Window

With your helper outside holding the window, head inside to position it.

First, raise the window a 1/2-inch off the sill and level it with a few shims. Then center the window and have your helper drive one roofing nail in each bottom corner of the window’s nailing flange. Next, place a level against the hinge side and adjust it plumb. Use a few shims to keep it in place and check the other side.

Check the window to make sure it’s level and plumb, and also check that the measurements from opposite corners are equidistant. Then drive a nail in each top corner of the nailing flange. Before nailing the rest of the window, place the level back on the sides. If there are gaps between the frame and the level, use shims to straighten the frame, then have your helper nail the sides and the top of the window’s flange.

Insulate the Wall

Believe it or not, the soil we removed from against the house insulated the basement, so we need to replace it with a two-inch layer of rigid insulation.

I ripped a ­pressure-treated cleat to match the depth of the insulation and fastened it with concrete screws a few inches from the retaining wall. Then I pressed the insulation between the cleat and the wood bucks. I pressure-fit insulation all the way around the window and sealed all the seams with sheathing tape.

Pro tip: I covered the blue rigid insulation with leftover landscape fabric to keep it from showing through the cladding.

Add a Drip Cap

I cut a piece of one-inch Z-flashing to 1/2-inch wider than the window. Then I used a hand seamer to fold the ends down to cover the sides of the window. After nailing on the drip cap, I covered the flange with flashing tape to keep out water.

Add Furring Strips

Before dressing up the inside of the well with cedar, I ripped a pressure- treated 2×4 into 1/4-inch thick strips and fastened them inside the well every two feet. This will allow water to drain away to keep the cedar cladding and the timbers free of rot.

Install Pest Screen

To prevent pests from finding a home behind the cedar cladding, I lined the inside of the well with a roll of fiberglass screen mesh. I made sure the mesh was taut and ­stapled it to each furring strip.

Clad the Well Walls

I used cedar deck boards to clad the inside of the well.

After cutting each piece to length, I fastened the boards to the timber wall with composite deck screws through each furring strip. I made sure each board was level so each course would line up at the corners.

Build the Stairs to Code

I glued and screwed two 2x4s together, then cut one end at 60 degrees and the other at 30 degrees. Starting with the bottom stair, I fitted each one into the corner, shortening each step as I worked my way up the wall.

This city requires each step to be at least 12 inches wide and three inches away from the wall, with no more than 18 inches of rise between them. I added deck boards to the top and face of the stairs to match the rest of the well.

Trim the Window

I used Boral TruExterior boards to trim the window. I ripped them to 1-1/4-inch wide and fastened them on edge with composite decking screws.

Seal the Window

Caulk the trim to the window at the sides and bottom. I used a door-and- window sealant that remains flexible after curing. The caulk prevents water from being trapped between the window and the trim.

I capped the top of the retaining wall with cedar decking and finished the well with a few coats of tung oil.

The post How to Install an Egress Window appeared first on Family Handyman.

Waterproof Egress Window Cover

To make this, start by cutting a pair of matching triangles from pressure-treated 2×8 lumber. The bases of the triangles should extend from the house to at least the outer perimeter of the window well, but they can be slightly longer.

Fasten the triangles together with pressure-treated 2x4s to make a frame that sits on top of the well wall or the ground beyond it. Attach a rectangular piece of plywood or plexiglass to the top of the frame with hinges, then screw the frame to the siding. You now have an openable cover that will keep out rain and pests.

Easy-to-Make Safety Window Well Cover

Here’s how to make a simple wooden grate for window wells with square, rounded or rectangular corners, using 2×4 and 1×3 lumber.

Cut 2×4 runners to fit inside the well in the direction perpendicular to the house. Then attach them to 1×3 slats that overlap the sides of the well by two or three inches. Spacing the slats one or two inches apart, screw them to the runners with two-inch exterior wood screws. This cover prevents kids and pets from falling in.

Lightweight Rain Protection Window Well Cover

Keep out rain and let in light with this simple cover, made from PVC pipe and clear polycarbonate roofing.

For the frame, glue 1- or 1-1/2-in. PVC pipe and fittings together with PVC cement. Use elbows for the front of the frame and tees for the back, then glue short lengths of pipe into the tees. These rest on the ground or the side of the window well, raise the back and make a slope.

Cut the roofing to size with a jigsaw or circular saw; choose a blade with a high tooth count. Then fasten it to the pipe with self-drilling roofing screws.

Well-Ventilated Egress Window Well Cover

This stay-in-place egress cover keeps out rain while providing ventilation and plenty of space on the uncovered sides. You’ll need 2x4s and corrugated plastic roofing.

Build two identical right-angle triangles about four feet high with bases that extend to the front of the well. Screw the triangles to the top of the well and the siding, then join them by screwing three or four evenly spaced 1x4s to them. Fasten clear corrugated roofing to the 1x4s with weathertight roofing screws.

Simple Acrylic Window Well Cover

If you have a galvanized steel window well with a semicircular cross-section, you can probably find a pre-fab cover for it. If not, here’s how to make your own.

Purchase a half-sheet of 1/4-in. acrylic (it’s cheaper than plexiglass). Set it on top of the well, trace the outline and cut with a jigsaw. Slit some clear flexible tubing lengthwise with a knife and fit it over the edges of the acrylic. This gives the cover a finished look. Set this on the well or attach it to the siding with hinges.

The post 5 DIY Window Well Covers appeared first on Family Handyman.

Outdoor Faucets

Outdoor plumbing is vulnerable to extremely cold temperatures. Your outdoor faucets, connected to a water supply within the home, can freeze up and cause pipes to burst. That leads to flooding and other serious damage, explains Jake Romano, a professional plumber with John the Plumber.

However, there are easy ways to prevent frozen pipes. “Shut off the interior water valve for your outdoor faucets, disconnect your hose, drain it and store it somewhere safe,” Romano says. “Then open your outdoor spigot to drain the water in the line.”

Romano also suggests using hose bib covers to prevent outdoor faucets from freezing. Outdoor faucets or pipes that crack will need to be repaired or replaced. Consider replacing with a frost-proof outdoor faucet.

Frozen Pipes

Frigid temperatures can also damage your indoor plumbing system and leave you with frozen pipes within walls. Some homes are more susceptible than others, with water supply lines or drain pipes in vulnerable, unheated areas like exterior walls, the attic and the basement.

“Look in your basement, crawl space, garage and attic for exposed pipes,” Romano says. “You can insulate them with pipe insulation or newspapers, and heating cables added to your waterlines provide additional protection.”

Waterline heaters have thermostats that will trigger the heat when it becomes too cold. Aside from that, be mindful of the temperatures outside. When it’s freezing, crank up the heat, open the cupboards with pipes inside them and let your water taps drip slightly. Any pipes that do crack will need to be repaired or replaced.

Note: Turn off the water to your home when you go on vacation or leave for an extended period of time to avoid costly damage should a pipe burst and go unnoticed while you’re gone.

Windows and Doors

Winter weather can cause caulk around the windows and doors to dry up, crack and pull away, leading to openings that let cold air in and warm air out. “This happens a lot in the South where the caulk dries not so much as the result of winter but mainly due to dry weather,” says James Surrey, founder of Review Home Warranties. “Cold and dry air is the perfect recipe for this to occur,”

If you feel air drafts around closed windows and doors, check and seal any cracks and holes with caulk. Surrey says you can also prevent interior caulk from drying out by setting up a central humidifier in your home and keeping the humidity between 30 and 50 percent.

Gutters and Downspouts

Gutters clogged with leaves and other debris allow snow and water to accumulate, which can cause ice dams. If water can’t drain out, ice and snow collects and icicles form.

Icicles add weight and stress your gutters. That’s why Warren Braithwaite, CEO of J Baron Construction, says homeowners need to not only clean gutters before winter, but make sure the gutters themselves are tightly secured. Even homes in southern states that see more rain than snow in the winter are prone to damage if gutters are not properly cleaned in the fall. Braithwaite says gutters damaged by winter weather will need repair or replacement in the spring.

Roof

Roofs bear the brunt of harsh winter weather no matter where you live. Heavy snow on the roof, along with ice, strong winds, hail and rain, can cause problems, since damaged and missing shingles lead to leaks. Braithwaite says that before winter weather—with all different types of winter storm names—arrives, give your roof a good once-over and replace any missing or cracked shingles. Address damaged shingles and leaks promptly.

“Also, look at areas such as the vents or gaps in the roof and the materials surrounding them to make sure there are no holes or cracks,” he says. “It’s vital to remove any detritus (this can include moss or plants) to avoid absorbing unwanted dampness, which can lead to further issues down the road, such as leaks.”

Driveways and Sidewalks

Keep an eye on the concrete walkways and steps right outside your house. Besides wear and tear caused by weather, many homeowners use salt-based products and deicers on their concrete walkways and steps. Jonathan Faccone, a real estate developer and founder of Halo Homebuyers, says that can be problematic.

“It can cause surface discoloration, can put undue stress on the concrete’s pores and even corrode the rebar underneath the surface,” he says. “In order to keep your concrete surfaces looking good for years to come, stay on top of shoveling to keep ice to a minimum.”

Stay ahead of the snow and ice by trying pickle brine as substitutes for corrosive salt and deicers. Concrete caulk can help repair any concrete that cracks following the winter months.

Decks and Porches

Heavy rain that pummels the South and snow that sits for months in the North can torture wooden decks, causing them to rot.

“Winter in the South, here in Georgia, it rains a lot more and because it’s colder, it stays wet longer which really causes lasting damage to the wood,” says Rick Lopes, owner of Handyman Connection of Alpharetta. “The best prevention for this is to make sure your wood has been treated before the weather gets too cold and rainy. Any holes and cracks in painting jobs should be taken care of before the winter, because those will offer an entrance for the moisture to get inside the wood and rot it.”

Shoveling a deck can also do more harm than good, since it can strip away paint. Rotting wood can make a deck structurally unsound, so you’ll have to inspect and repair your deck to address it.

Siding

Winter weather conditions take a toll on the exterior of a house, resulting in peeling paint. If not repaired, that allows moisture to infiltrate your siding, leading to rot. The paint on your home is one of the most important maintenance items to consider, says Matt Kunz, president of Five Star Painting, a Neighborly company.

As part of your annual home winterization process, he says, “Inspect your home for any peeling or blistering and paint that you can almost see through or that appears chalky. Inspect for any bare surfaces exposed to the elements, and at a minimum apply a primer coat.”

Repainting your exterior before winter will prevent these problems. In addition, hail or fallen tree limbs can damage siding by denting aluminum or cracking vinyl. Damaged siding should be repaired or replaced in a timely fashion, as the exterior is the home’s first line of defense against the wrath of winter weather.

Foundation Cracks

During the winter, those bitter Arctic blasts cause the ground to freeze. When it unfreezes, and as the cycle repeats. The expansion and contraction of the soil as it freezes and thaws can result in shifting ground under your foundation, which can cause cracks and other damage.

It’s worth noting that not all foundation cracks are the same. There are different types that can mean different things, so it’s important to know the difference. Vertical cracks are a common occurrence for most homes, resulting from the compression and tension on the concrete as a house settles. However, ice can cause cracks to expand as it thaws and refreezes, so it’s important to know when and how to fix cracks in your foundation.

The post Which Parts of Your Home Are Most Susceptible to Winter Storm Damage? appeared first on Family Handyman.

If your skylight leaks, don’t wait to fix it. A small leak could indicate water collecting around the skylight that could rot the roof decking.

Maryland general contractor Alan Hill warns that major skylight repair jobs aren’t DIY-friendly. However, he says homeowners can find and seal most leaks if they have the right equipment.

Hill adds the problem may not even be a leak — it could be condensation. And if it is a leak, it may not be coming from the skylight itself, but from another part of the roof. Roof leaks tend to be insidious that way.

Note: Roof work is dangerous, so follow recommended safety guidelines for setting up and working from your ladder. Always use the proper safety equipment, including non-slip shoes and a roof safety harness. If the roof is too steep to walk on comfortably, or you have any concerns at all, hire a pro.

Pinpoint the Source of the Leak

When you see water dripping from your skylight, put something under the drip to catch the water. Then try to determine where the drip originates. You’ll probably need a stepladder for a close-up view from indoors.

Condensation

While you’re examining the skylight, look for signs of condensation on the glass. If you find any, you’ll probably notice it collects at certain points and drips from there.

The best remedy for condensation is ventilation. If the skylight doesn’t open, consider using a fan to improve air circulation. Hill also recommends going on the roof and clearing obstructions from the weep holes, the tiny holes on the lower part of the skylight frame that allow condensation to drain. This will prevent the skylight glass from clouding up.

Faulty skylight

If the skylight opens, check the rubber gasket around the frame for signs of deterioration or mold. That would indicate the skylight isn’t sealing all the way and moisture is dripping between the window casing and the frame.

To remedy this, you may need to replace the gasket. You may also find bits of debris preventing the skylight from closing all the way. Removing them may stop the leak.

Your inspection may reveal moisture around a cracked section of the skylight. Although it may be possible to remove the cracked part and repair it, in most cases you’ll have to replace the entire skylight.

Faulty roof flashing

Once you’ve eliminated condensation and skylight defects, any water you see must be coming through the roof. It’s either seeping under the flashing or getting through the seal between the flashing and the skylight.

If it’s coming from the frame on the upper part of the roof slope, that’s easier to diagnose and repair than if it’s coming from the lower part of the frame. Water tends to travel along the roof decking, so a leak from the lower part could originate from anywhere on the roof. One from the upper part is almost always from the skylight flashing.

Reseal the Flashing

If you determine the water is indeed coming from the flashing, the next step is to go on the roof with a caulk gun and the appropriate sealant. Hill recommends sealant designed specifically for roof flashing, such as Loctite Roof & Flashing Sealant. Butyl and silicone sealants are not recommended for this project.

The damage may be easy to spot. You may find parts of the existing sealant have chipped or crumbled away from exposed flashing. In that case, scrape off all the loose bits with a putty knife and apply a bead of new sealant to the exposed area.

To examine the parts of the flashing that sit flush against the roof, you’ll need to peel back the shingles. Apply the sealant generously to the edges of the flashing, especially along the head of the skylight on the upper part of the roof. Remember that any water seeping under the flashing at the top of the skylight can trickle down and drip from a lower part.

You May Need to Reinstall the Flashing

Quality skylights come with flashing, which Hill says is leakproof when installed correctly. Without knowing it, however, a DIY or inexperienced pro installer could damage the flashing by nailing it to the roof, which Hill says you should never do.

If you find nails, deteriorated or rusting flashing, or gaps in the step flashing along the sides of the skylight frame where shingles and flashing are layered, it’s probably best to rip up the shingles and redo the flashing.

If things reach this point, Hill recommends hiring a vetted contractor. That way you’ll be sure the proper flashing is used and installed correctly. It’s an extra expense, but it’s better than doing the job yourself and discovering the skylight still leaks.

The post Tips for Fixing a Leaking Skylight appeared first on Family Handyman.

Add a Splash of Color

Painting is a quick and easy project if you’re new to DIY. Paint your trim a bright color or something like a dark black to contrast with your home’s exterior walls. Another fun idea: Use multiple colors. Paint the parts of the trim that go over the windows one color, and the trim along the perimeter of the window another.

Add Window Boxes

Another way to add color to your home’s exterior: Build window boxes and fill them with flowers. Window boxes add dimension to your home and can really give nice curb appeal. They’re also relatively simple to put together without too many tools. Finish them with stain or a coat of paint.

It save time, you can also buy planter boxes online. This option on Amazon comes with an easy installation kit. Order it in black, espresso or white.

Add Shutters

Window shutters, like window boxes, are quick DIY projects that add curb appeal. There are plenty of styles and designs to choose from. Pick a bold paint color or a trendy wood stain to finish them off. Shutters also protect windows against severe weather — imperative in certain parts of the country.

Add Window Grids

If you’re OK with adding a pattern over your view, a removable grid like this one by Anderson Windows adds dimension and a modern look to your windows. There are dozen of window grid installation kits available on Amazon.

Add a Thicker Frame

Thicker trim will make your windows look larger and give your home a classic look. Drawing eyes to the windows will help give them character and make your home stand out from the street.

Add Angles

Use angles to make your windows look larger and add extra dimension to your home. Sharp angles can enhance your home’s window shape. You can also add extra dimension beneath the windows, like this manufactured stone veneer.

The post 6 Exterior Window Trim Upgrades appeared first on Family Handyman.

Types of Skylight Shades

Skylight shades are typically custom-made to fit a skylight’s precise dimensions. They come in all kinds of materials with varying degrees of effectiveness.

Densely made room darkening or “blackout” shades will completely block sunlight from entering a room, even during the brightest times of the day. Light-filtering shades will let in more light but also insulate skylights, reducing the energy drain they can have on a room.

Skylight shades open and close manually or via a motor. Much like traditional shades, manual skylight shades can be opened and closed with cords and poles. Motorized skylight shades work by remote control or smartphone app. This feature is especially convenient if you open and close your shades multiple times a day.

How to Choose Skylight Shades

Choosing the right skylight shades for your home mostly depends on how you use the room(s) where you’re installing them.

If it’s a place for daytime naps or a home movie theater, choose a blackout shade to make it as dark as possible. If you’re less concerned with blocking light and want to increase the energy efficiency, go with light filtering shades. They’ll still block most light while providing key insulation in an area likely to be a significant thermal leak

Best Skylight Shades

Here are three of the best skylight shades on the market, including manual and motorized options.

Levelor Light Filtering Skylight Cellular Shades

• The honeycomb design insulates the window and the room.
• Operated using standard manual cord controls.
• The fabric’s light filtering capability blocks harmful UV rays.

Shop on Home Depot

Levelor Room Darkening Skylight Cellular Shades

• “Blackout” shades block all light; perfect for bedrooms or home theaters.
• Comes in multiple colors.
• Can be made with double cell honeycomb fabric that dampens sound and reduces noise.

Shop on Home Depot

Blindsgalore Motorized Skylight Shade

• The shades can be opened and closed with the touch of a button.
• The battery can be charged via solar power.
• Compatible with Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant.

Shop Now

Why You Should Trust Us

Harrison Kral is an author at Family Handyman with experience in the home-building industry and construction, specializing in any and all DIY trends and projects. Given his years of hands-on DIY experience, he has built a wealth of information when advising on projects like skylight shade installation.

Alexandra Mantella, Content Updates Editor at Family Handyman, updated and contributed research to this piece. She has over five years of experience in product testing, research and commerce writing. Previously, she served as a commerce content update editor at Bob Vila.

FAQ

Are skylight shades worth it?

Skylight shades are definitely worth it. These shades give you full cover against any streaming sunlight. These also minimize the heat in the space, which is convenient in areas with hot, dry climates.

Can you put a shade on a skylight?

Skylight shades can be added to any current skylight. Simply measure the skylight’s surface area and find a shade that matches its size.

One option that we love that comes in a wide array of sizes is the Levelor Light Filtering Skylight Cellular Shades, which block UV rays and are built to accommodate skylights.

Can skylights be tinted?

Those who prefer to keep their space UV-protected and shades can try tinting their skylight. This is a film that can be directly applied to the surface of the skylight to block out the majority of UV rays and the sun’s heat. If you choose this method, we recommend the Kespen Window Film.

The post How to Choose the Right Skylight Shades for Your Home appeared first on Family Handyman.