My experience playing with Hypertufa extends over many years. I say playing because the creative opportunities are endless. I have made everything from water features to Buddha heads out of Hypertufa. Planters are an excellent introduction to hypertufa as a material, so let’s walk through the steps for making a hypertufa planter from scratch.

What is hypertufa?

Hypertufa is an easy DIY cement mix made with Portland cement that is lighter than traditional cement mixtures. Hypertufa is durable. It can live outdoors and lends itself to either a smooth, polished look or a rough, rustic texture. The secret to the finish is in the mold you use. The secret to living outdoors, at freezing temperatures, is in the ratio of the mix. Hypertufa conforms like clay, can take on many forms and is inexpensive. Here is a wonderful introduction to Portland cement and the possibilities it holds.

Select the hypertufa mold

The mold will determine the final finish and texture of the hypertufa planter in which it is cast. For a smooth, polished appearance, choose a plastic tub with a smooth, shiny finish. If you want a textured look like us, line a plastic tub with a plastic liner. Allow the wrinkles to form in the plastic liner and embed into the wet hypertufa cement.

Mix the hypertufa ingredients

Mix together the dry ingredients: two quarts perlite, two quarts peat moss and two quarts Portland cement. The dry Portland cement and peat moss tend to clump and become difficult to break down when you add water, so sift them through a 1/2-in. steel mesh screen first.

Once sifted, to ensure even distribution of materials, mix the dry material by hand or with a garden shovel to blend well.

Slowly add water

Slowly add water as you thoroughly mix the materials. It is important not to overwet the mix. Shoot for a consistency like a thick brownie mix. If you can make a ball out of the mix and it stays in shape, you’ve added the right amount of water.

Transfer the Hypertufa mix into the plastic tub

Put on a pair of plastic gloves and transfer the hypertufa mix into the plastic-lined tub. Start by building up at least an inch of Hypertufa mix on the bottom of the tub for the base, and work your way up the tub’s sides to create walls at least an inch thick.

Bore out a drain hole

Every planter needs a drain hole to ensure proper drainage and prevent root rot. With a wood dowel or your finger, create a one-inch-ish drain hole in the bottom of the planter. Depending on the size of your planter, you may opt for two holes six to nine inches apart.

Finishing touches

This is the last opportunity to shape and form the wet hypertufa mix.  Whatever stage you leave it in now is how it will dry and cure. Be sure to smooth out the top lip of the planter, make sure corners are defined and all four walls are about the same thickness.

Cure for 24 hours

Fold the plastic liner over the top of the hypertufa and leave it in the mold to cure for 24-hours. If your plastic mold container has a lid, use this as well. The plastic liner and/or lid will prevent moisture from escaping too quickly and slow down drying time. Slowing down the drying time will help prevent the hypertufa from developing cracks and weakening the planter.

De-mold and clean up

De-molding is easy when using a non-porous plastic tub like ours. But if you decide to use another porous material (such as wood) in the future, you will want to use a lubricant such as vegetable or olive oil sprayed or brushed on the mold.

When mixing Portland cement with Perlite and peat moss, you may find small loose particles of these elements attached to the outer surface but not fully embedded.  To clean loose bits of material, use a wire brush to remove them. This step is more about aesthetics than it is about the durability of the planter. It’s about the look you like.

Complete the drying process

Once the planter has been de-molded, it will still not be dry. You will want to continue the slow drying process by wrapping the whole planter in plastic for five to seven days and misting it with water every 24 hours. You will know it is dry when it looks even in color, and no moisture is visible. Moisture can be detected by uneven, darker grey spots in the Hypertufa.

While drying, the drain hole may become glazed over with a thin layer of cement. Use a dowel or screwdriver to clean it out before the drying process.

Transition to a tub of water

The last step is to ensure your planter is no longer holding the lime from the cement.  Lime can mix into your potting soil and hurt your plants.  To allow the lime to leach out, submerge the entire planter in a tub of water for seven days.

Remove planter from water, Rinse off and plant

To ensure any remnants of Lime have been removed from the planter, give it a good rinse before adding dirt and planting.

FAQ

What is the difference between concrete and cement?

Concrete is cement with an aggregate of sand and gravel added to it for strength.  Cement is just the Portland cement powder. It becomes concrete when you add sand and gravel.

Does Hypertufa work with water for water features?

Yes, Hypertufa is often used for water features and is well-suited to water exposure. If your water feature will be exposed to freezing temperatures, be sure to add sand to the mix to help prevent cracking.

The post DIY Hypertufa Planters With This Step-by-Step Guide appeared first on Family Handyman.

Popcorn ceilings hit their “heyday” in the 1970s and 1980s. Also known as an acoustic ceiling for its noise-dampening properties, popcorn ceilings were both an architectural choice. They made finishing ceilings easier because the texture was usually sprayed on and rarely painted or sealed. Although that day has come and gone, it doesn’t mean many of us don’t still have popcorn-textured ceilings in our homes.

The challenging thing about popcorn ceilings is that they may be toxic. Until the 1980s, the composition of the mix used for the application had asbestos fibers, which we know is considered a carcinogen.  So, although we may want to remove the popcorn ceiling texture, you are advised to use an abatement professional who will get rid of it safely and avoid having asbestos dust flying through the ducts and landing on surfaces all over your home.

One less attractive characteristic of textured ceilings is that they are less reflective of natural light, and we all want as much light as possible in our homes. Popcorn ceilings also have a high propensity to catch, store dust and absorb cigarette smoke — all of which turn into allergens affecting everyone in the household.

With all this said, it doesn’t mean you have to live with a dirty and dingy popcorn ceiling.  It means you must maintain and clean it, but how?  You don’t want to disturb the material yet; you want to clean it.  My first advice is to approach the cleaning of a popcorn ceiling with a process of elimination until you find what works best for you and your ceiling.  Meaning that if one process doesn’t work, try another. I share a few different ways to clean a popcorn ceiling.

Prep the area

Spending a few minutes preparing to clean a popcorn ceiling will save you a great deal of time cleaning up afterwards.  It is likely that household dust and lint has accumulated in the nooks and crannies of the popcorn texture. Whatever doesn’t get sucked up by a vacuum will end up in the air and can take up to eight hours to land on a surface. Lay drop cloths on the floor, keeping ladder safety in mind. Remove or cover all surfaces and furniture.

Vacuum up surface dust

Before you start brushing dust in the air, try to suck as much as possible up using a vacuum with a soft bristle attachment. Focus on not disturbing the texture. Press lightly on the wand and let the vacuum do the work.

Use a chip brush or microfiber duster

Use a chip brush or microfiber duster to clean hard-to-reach areas, such as corners or areas with a deeper texture. Hold the brush/duster in one hand and the vacuum in the other to clean as you go.

Clean with soap and water

Lightly spray the area with a water and soap solution. Adding a few drops of dish soap is all you need. You do not want to soak the area, which may create water stains. Gently scrub with a soft sponge or roll with a clean, thick nap roller to pick up dirt in hard-to-wash areas. Do not rub hard, as this may damage or disturb the texture and push the dirt further into the texture, making the ceiling look dirtier.

Applying water to the popcorn ceiling may make the texture look dirtier by pushing the dirt around, forcing you to paint the surface. Be very selective with this step. Spray the water and soap mixture sparingly and lightly. This step could do more damage than good. Try to remove as much dust and dirt as possible without exposing the surface to too much water.

• Tip: Cut a sponge to a smaller size so it fits comfortably in your hand and can conform to the areas you want to reach.

If you have water stains, paint it

It is unlikely that any of these solutions will remove water stains. To fully remove them, you must paint the popcorn ceiling with a primer and then a flat or matte topcoat. You must understand that once you seal in your popcorn texture with paint, removing it will be much more difficult later. If you want a clean, fresh look, knowing the texture will remain, paint and seal it. This may be the time to consider hiring a professional to remove it.

FAQ

Can you clean textured tiles the same way you clean a popcorn ceiling?

Yes, acoustic ceiling tiles trap, dust, lint and cigarette smoke the same way a popcorn ceiling does. Thus, using a vacuum with a soft bristle brush, micro duster or thick nap roller will be effective.

Is it possible to successfully repair popcorn ceiling texture after damage?

Although it may require patience and finesse, repairing a popcorn ceiling is possible.  Retailers now sell non-toxic popcorn ceiling textures in a can for this purpose.  You will have to test the level of texture to achieve a patch that is not noticeable.  Start lightly and build up.

How do I clean grease trapped in my popcorn ceiling?

To remove grease from a popcorn ceiling, you must break it down. Spraying the grease on the ceiling with a mixture of two parts water, one part vinegar and a teaspoon of dish soap will help soften the grease and make it easier to lift off.  Over time, grease on any surface becomes sticky and adheres like an adhesive, making it very difficult to remove without scrubbing hard.  With a popcorn ceiling, scrubbing hard may damage the texture, resulting in further work to repair it. The last resort to deal with grease on a popcorn or textured ceiling is to paint it first with a primer and then with a flat sheen paint.

The post Clean Your Popcorn Ceiling in 5 Easy Steps appeared first on Family Handyman.

Planting seeds seems basic, and it is.  Dirt. Water. Seeds. However, options must be considered, and some knowledge must be applied for guaranteed success and diminished failures in the form of sprouts worthy of going in your yard and maturing to harvest.

Starting seeds indoors has benefits for different reasons.  Some vegetables, like tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, brussels sprouts, kale, lettuce, celery, cucumbers, summer squash, and most herbs, are referred to as “tender plants” because they can’t tolerate cold temperatures. Other vegetables, like artichokes, eggplant, and peppers, require a long growing season and will benefit from being started indoors to maximize harvest time. Overlapping with some of the above, some of these vegetables have slower root development, like peppers, eggplants, cauliflower, and celery. Starting these indoors allows for more growing time and makes them more likely to succeed when they are planted in the vegetable garden.

There are also plants that do not transplant well and are best started in the garden (or outdoors in larger containers). These include cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, and squash. These are all tender, however, so refrain from sowing them outdoors while frost is still a threat.

No matter the reason, most plants and vegetables can only win by being started indoors. Research the specific plant and seeds as you develop your green thumb.  Here are the steps for starting your seeds, along with some tips to have a bountiful harvest right in your backyard, perhaps starting in your basement or kitchen window. Cheers to your green thumb!

When to start seeds indoors

I have provided a reference for when to start seeds indoors for some of my favorite vegetables. The following are the times needed for each seed to grow into a transplantable plant for the start of the outdoor growing season.

• Artichokes: 8-10 weeks
• Brussels sprouts: 4-6 weeks
• Eggplant: 8-10 weeks
• Peppers: 8 weeks
• Tomatoes: 6-8 weeks

Soil to start seeds

Combine one part compost, one part vermiculite, and two parts coconut coir for an easy seed-starting potting mix. It is also acceptable to purchase seed-starting potting soil from a garden center.

Whether you make your own potting soil mixture or purchase some, it is usually fully dry. Add water to hydrate it. This will cause the soil to inflate and make it easier to break apart. Once it becomes soft and pliable, break it up with your hands or a small garden shovel, making sure all of the mix is hydrated and fluffy.

• Tip: Make sure the soil is moist before planting seeds to prevent them from being displaced or sinking too deeply into the soil mix.

Transfer the soil mixture

Fill potting trays or two-inch organic pods with the soil mixture. Fill to the top, but don’t compact the soil mix down too tightly. You want the seeds to have room to sprout without a lot of effort or energy spent finding their way.

Tip: Cardboard toilet paper rolls work wonderfully as a potting reservoir because they are organic, allow moisture to pass through, and are small enough to make a seed feel snug.

Plant the seeds

Excavate a hole in the center of the potting mix with the handle of your garden shovel or a small seed sowing tool. Be sure to read the specifications for each seed type to determine the depth.

You want your seeds deep enough to be covered and shallow enough to allow the shoot to find its way up and out of the dirt. Some seeds make it easy to determine which side of the seed is up and which is down.  If detectable, place the seed so the roots easily grow into the dirt and the sprout easily finds its way up.

Label your seeds

Use plant tags and a permanent marker and label your seeds. You may think you will remember which each is, but you may easily get them confused. It is crucial to know which sprouts are which to continue with the ideal light, water and temperature environment for a successful harvest.

Mist with water

After planting the seeds, you may lightly mist the soil mixture. Use a gentle spray of water to avoid displacing the seeds. You should also ensure an easy drainage path for the water to drain through the seed trays or pots.

Place on a heat mat

Seeds need warmth to grow—between 65 and 70 degrees F is ideal. Heating mats ensure the dirt is at an optimal temperature for growth. For this reason, plants should not be placed in the ground outdoors until the ground temperature is at a level that will allow the seeds to grow and flourish.

Once you have planted the seeds, place them on a heating mat until they sprout and start showing their first leaf, called cotyledons. Once you see these emerge, you can place the tray under light for 12 – 16 hours daily.

Introduce a grow light

Once the cotyledons have emerged, you may introduce grow lights. Seedlings need 12 to 16 hours of light daily. Place the grow lights about 4 inches away from the sprouts until they are ready to begin hardening for outdoor transplantation. Make sure the grow lights are not touching the leaves.

Start fertilizing

Once the sprouts develop true leaves, start fertilizing until they are ready to be transplanted. Fertilize sprouts every two weeks with ocean water (rich in nutrients) or a balanced fertilizer to encourage good roots and healthy growth. If using a water-soluble fertilizer, it is very important to use it diluted to one-half the normal strength.

FAQ

When it comes to starting seeds, what is a blackout period?

A blackout period, mostly used when growing microgreens, is a time when seeds or microgreens are kept in complete darkness to encourage specific growth processes. The length of the blackout period (two to seven days) depends on the variety of microgreens and the desired outcome. The blackout period encourages the development of root systems and longer stems, making the microgreens more tender and flavorful.

What does it mean to sacrifice a seed?

Some seeds, like beans, must be scratched (scarified) and soaked for 24 hours before planting. This will allow moisture to enter the seed and activate germination. This is easily done by scratching the outer layer and placing it in a Ziploc bag with water before putting it in the soil mix.

Why do some seeds (especially flowers) require refrigeration before planting?

Many wildflowers or plants that usually spend the winter buried in the ground getting ready for the spring need to experience cold stratification before planting. To replicate this cold period, this may be done by placing the seeds into the refrigerator or placing the seed packet outside for at least a month.

The post How To Start Seeds Indoors in 8 Simple Steps appeared first on Family Handyman.

Our Gazebo Project

The team at Family Handyman joined forces to take advantage of some open backyard space and build a gazebo that not only looks good but also expands its living and entertainment space. Lots of planning and coordination took place up front, permits were pulled, and materials landed in the driveway.

Here’s our step-by-step process for making a gazebo. Get some extra sets of hands and allow yourself the time to get it done right. Rome wasn’t built in a day, and neither was this gazebo!

Pour concrete footings

The 6×6 posts will be attached to footings in a square that measures 101-1/2-in. to the center of the footings, or exactly eight feet between the faces of the posts.

• All your deck and wall measurements hinge on these four posts. Ensure the footings are positioned accurately so that the posts and their faces line up in a perfect square. Use eight-foot wood spacers, or make a layout jig to ensure the spacing is correct.
• Use a rented auger or manual post hole digger to dig holes 48-in. deep and at least eight inches wide to accommodate an eight-inch concrete form tube. Both tools will come in handy as you get deeper.
• Using a reciprocating saw, cut the concrete forming tubes to 48-in. and insert them into the holes. Make sure the tubes are seated in the bottom of the hole and flush to the soil level. If you have a grade variance, make sure the tops of the cement tubes are level with each other. Check their levelness with a piece of wood and a six-foot level.
• For improved drainage around the footings, start by filling the concrete form tubes with six inches of sand followed by six inches of gravel. Use a tamper to compact the sand and gravel at the bottom of the tube form and eliminate air pockets. Make sure the sand and gravel are as compacted as possible.
• Fill the form tubes with concrete, double-checking the height of all the tubes to ensure they are level. If the concrete form tube has empty space around it once in the hole, backfill it with dirt and sand to prevent it from moving. Allow the cement to cure overnight before proceeding to the next step.

Attach post bases to footings

To attach the posts to the footings, you will be installing galvanized post bases on top of each cured footing as follows:

• Before screwing the post bases to the footings, simply set your post bases on top of each dried footing and measure to make sure the placement is as you intended for the wood posts. This is your second opportunity to make sure they are all level and the four post bases are square to each other.
• Once you are confident of the placement of the post bases, drill 1/2-in. holes with a masonry bit and hammer drill in your footings to secure the included post base bolts. Ensure the hole is drilled deep enough so the head of the five-inch bolt sits flush or below the line where the actual post will sit on the post base.
• After drilling and vacuuming out debris from the holes for the post bases, use a caulk gun to fill each hole with high-strength acrylic anchoring adhesive, insert the bolt, and secure the post base to the footing with a nut. Allow the anchoring adhesive to cure.

Mark and drill the posts

With galvanized post bases secured on top of each concrete footing, set the 6×6 posts in position within the metal post base. Use a post level to verify each post sits plumb and level. The post bases have pre-drilled holes in their metal tabs designed to hold the post with a bolt from side to side.

Mark holes for bolt placement on both sides of each wood post. Once holes are marked, pull the wood post out of the post base, lay them down on the ground and drill holes, as straight as possible, from the marked locations on each side of the 6×6 post so they meet in the middle. Once through test that they are straight enough for the carraige bolt to slide through before moving on.

Note: While the posts are on the ground, cut the two 35-1/2-in. stub wall posts from the gazebo’s back 6×6 posts.

Frame the deck

• Cut all the 2×6 joists and rim joists to build the deck structure.
• Nail the joists and rim joists together using a framing nailer as in the drawing above with both sides of the post bases being straddled by deck joists running in the opposite direction as the decking will be laid. Most composite decking manufacturers say you need floor joists every 16-in., but in my experience, it is better to have them closer as composite decking tends to flex.
• Check that the deck frame is square and level. Concrete deck blocks on a pad of gravel help hold the frame in place as you attach the joists.
• Using a carriage bolt installed parallel to the joists, secure the 6×6 posts to the metal post base, through the holes in the post base and the holes you pre-drilled in the posts in the previous step.
• Drill a hole for a second carriage bolt that will sandwich together the 6×6 posts and the two deck joists straddling them. Ensure that your deck frame and posts are square and level before drilling them. Drilling these holes straight will be challenging since you will require a long drill bit with some flex to it, and some of the floor joists will be in the way. It’s just a matter of making your hole straight enough for the carriage bolt to pass through and staying clear of the metal tabs on the post base.
• Place the longer, 10-inch carriage bolts through the posts and the joist and tighten them down to secure the deck frame and 6×6 posts.
• For support and stability, install two rows of 2×6 blocking 39-in. in from each side of the deck and staggard along the lines to aid in nailing. The only critical blocking piece placement is the one set 17 -1/2-in. over from the front posts, which will serve as the anchor for the short stub wall post. Install the blocking pieces plumb using a Speed square.
• Install the stub wall posts in line with the front corner posts tight against the blocking and flush with the bottom of the joists. Use screws to hold them in place and a carriage bolt through the post and joists to secure them.

Install the decking

To avoid the hassle of hidden fastener clips, we decided to use composite decking screws and plugs that match the finish of the composite decking. Here is how the decking was installed:

• Cover the outer faces of the rim joists with composite decking pieces that will serve as skirt boards. Miter these boards to fit in the corners.
• To prevent water from leaking between the deck boards and rotting the framing, cover the tops of all joists and any blocking with joist tape.
• Around the outer frame of our deck, install the picture frame border of mitered deck boards that overhang the face of the skirt boards by half an inch. Use the four deck boards you purchased without the grooves for them. Prior to screwing them down, ensure you have calculated the exact dimensions you will need, including the spacing between each deck board. It is more critical that your frame is square than that the half-inch overhang surrounding the skirt board remains constant, so make adjustments as necessary.
• Fill in the picture frame border by securing the top composite decking boards to the joists, starting at the center of the deck and working toward the edges. When you reach the posts, measure and cut around them to maintain the spacing between deck boards. Plan on hiding any deck boards that you will need to rip narrower near the walls to make them less obvious.

Frame the stub and back walls

• Frame the two 96-in. wide x 30-in. tall stub walls to be installed on the sides of the structure, with studs set 16-in. on center. Secure these to the posts and deck joists using three-inch screws, ensuring the posts are plumb before locking them in place.
• Frame the two 12-in. wide x 30-in. tall stub walls to be installed between the front posts and the front stub wall post near the gazebo’s entrance. Secure these to the posts using three-inch screws again double-checking that the posts are plumb before locking them into place.
• Frame the 96-in. wide back wall to be installed between the gazebo back posts. The top of this wall is framed so the top plate sits at a 14-degree angle (the same pitch as the roof), so the wall height should be built to 80-in. to the highest side of the top plate. Construct this wall with studs 16-in. on center, ensuring there is a stud directly in the center of the wall. Secure the back wall to the posts and deck blocking using three-inch screws.

Frame the front arch

• Frame the 96-in. wide x 24-7/8-in. tall top wall to be installed between the gazebo front posts. This wall has a matching 14-degree top plate as the back wall. It is also framed with studs 16-in. on center with one directly in the center. The tricky part about constructing this wall is cutting the arch.
• I knew I wanted the arch to be 60 inches wide by 7-1/2-in. deep, so after conducting some calculations, I determined that a router circle cutting jig with a radius of 63-3/4-in. would be required to make the arch. Using scrap OSB and 2x4s, I constructed the jig, marking the arch with a 1/8-in. deep router pass. Having routed the arch a little bit, I used a circular saw and handsaw to finish cutting through the 2x4s to ensure the cuts remained square.
• Install 2×4 blocking between the cut studs to ensure that they remain in place and are sturdy.
• Install the top wall between the front 6×6 posts. Screw it into place so that the bottom plate on the arch wall is 80-1/2-in. from the surface of the deck.

Frame the roof

• Like to how the deck joists straddle the posts on the deck the roof rafters will straddle the posts on the roof frame. Cut the rafters and fascia boards to length, and both ends of the rafters to 14-degrees (roof pitch is 3/12 or 14 degrees).
• In a large flat area on the ground, nail together just the four rafters that straddle the posts and the front and back fascia boards.
• With a couple extra sets of hands (and ladders), walk the four rafter/fascia section over to the structure and set it on top of the front arch wall and the back wall of the structure. Align it so the rafters land on each side of the 6×6 posts.
• Adjust the overhang on the front and back of the roof so the fascia board hangs over each end by 16-in.
• After checking that the four rafter/fascia section is square, secure it to the 6×6 posts with a 10-in. carriage bolt that sandwiches together the posts and the two rafters straddling them. Use three-inch screws to hold the pieces in place while drilling for the carriage bolts.
• Affix the remaining rafters to the fascia boards, 18-in. on center, starting in the center, in order to accommodate the width of the metal roofing peaks. Toe nail them to the top plates of the front arch and back wall, as well.
• Use a reciprocating saw with a long wood blade to cut the top of the 6×6 posts off flush to the top of the roof rafters.

Install the roof

• Cover the top of the roof frame with T1-11 tongue and groove slatted panels facing down into the interior of the gazebo, beginning at the back and working forward. Use a narrow crown stapler to attach them to the rafters, so that the tongue on the panels edge will serve as a catch on the next panel. Stagger the seams using full and cut sheets until the entire roof frame is clad.
• Install metal drip edge along the outer edge of the whole roof. Use tin snips to cut the drip edge to length and help form the bends at the corners.
• Install self-adhesive foam closure strips along the inner edge of the drip edge at the front and back of the structure. These foam strips are contoured to follow the peaks and valleys of the roof. They help keep weather, debris, and insects from making their way under the ends of the roofing panels.
• The metal roofing panels measure 36-in.wide by 12-ft. long. They interlock as you lay one ridged edge over another. Secure the metal roofing panels to the rafters with roofing screws equipped with rubber gaskets every 24-in. to seal the screw holes from water. Also, use butyl sealant tape at the seams connecting the metal roof panels. This will give an added layer of water protection and help prevent the metal panels from shifting as you secure them down.
• Install eave flashing across the roof line at the front of the gazebo. Together with the foam closure strips, this is the second layer of defense designed to prevent the elements from getting under the metal roofing.
• On the inside, add 2×6 blocking between the rafters on top of the framed back and arch walls to help enclose the interior.

Using pre-finished siding

As part of this project, we utilized a variety of pre-finished siding. The exterior and interior surfaces of the back wall, as well as the front of the arched wall, are covered with board and batten siding composed of 4×8 textured siding panels and 1×2 textured trim pieces. For the exterior of the side walls and two front stub walls, we used 8-in. lap siding, while all the interior walls (with the exception of the back wall) were clad with smooth 4×8 siding panels. Here are a few tips for installing prefinished siding:

• All cut edges must be sealed before installation to prevent the siding from absorbing moisture. Seal the cuts with a clear or color-matched exterior-rated topcoat.
• Make sure that there is a gap of 1/8 – 1/4-in. between all the prefinished pieces being installed – at the ends of lap siding, between panels and posts, etc. These gaps will be caulked or covered with 1×2 trim pieces.
• Whenever a piece of siding meets the decking, leave a gap of 5/16 – 3/8-in. This will allow the siding to dry out after a rainstorm.

Build the triangular side walls

After the roof has been erected, frame the upper triangular side walls on the ground. These walls should extend all the way up to the T1-11 siding on the underside of the roof and finish 48-in. above the top of the framing on the lower wall. Before securing them between the 6×6 posts, clad the exterior side of each with eight-inch lap siding (7-21/25-in. actual size). Start flush with the bottom of the framing and work your way up. You should overlap each piece of siding by one inch and cut off the siding pieces flush with the triangular wall shape.

Lift the walls and secure them with three-inch screws through the framing on the side that is not covered with siding.

Install the siding

• Cut and clad the interior of all walls, except the back wall, with smooth pre-finished siding panels. Using a siding nailer set, sink each nailhead just a hair beneath the surface of the pre-finished siding so they will become undetectable once filled and painted.
• Cover both sides of the back wall with textured pre-finished siding panels run vertically so that the center seam lines up with the center stud of the back wall. The panels should be nailed every 8 – 12-in. along each stud.
• Clad the exterior of the side and front walls with eight-inch lap siding. Install your first piece 5/16 – 3/8-in. off the decking, nailing it into each stud on the upper inch of the piece.
• The top edge of your fourth piece of lap siding should just barely overhang the bottom edge of the top plate on your framing. Finish off these walls by running a piece of 1×2 trim strip across the top, made from the same material as the batten.

Clad the arch wall

• Attach smooth siding panels to the interior of the gazebo, the height of the arch wall, with the seam centered on the center stud. For the time being, let the panels hang long over the arch.
• Using nails and construction adhesive, secure two layers of 1/2-in. x 3-1/2-in. flexible PVC trim to the ends of the cut arch studs, one over the other, to form the bend. Once secured, trim the PVC trim ends flat to the bottom face of the framing bottom plate.
• Cut out the arch of the interior siding flush to the bottom of the PVC trim. The easiest way to cut this arch was to use a jigsaw and oscillating tool to cut it close, and a router equipped with a flush trim bit to smooth it out.
• Once the interior arch has been cut, clad the exterior of the arch with textured siding panels and follow the same process to cut the siding to the contour of the arch.
• Install 2×4 blocks to cover the bottom plate of the framing and the ends of the PVC trim on the bottom sides of the arch. Wrap these 2×4 blocks in 1×2 batten trim strips, mitering the exposed corners.
• Immediately below that, install a reveal block of 1/2-inch thick lumber the same size as the 2×4 block above it wrapped in batten trim.
• Cap off the reveal block with a piece of 2×6 material the same length as the initial 2×4 block including the batten trim it is wrapped in.
• Finally, seal and cover the visible edges of the cut siding on the underside of the arch with 1/2-in. x 3/4-in. pieces of flexible PVC trim cut from a full 3-1/2-in. piece.

Install the battens

Attach horizontal 1×2 battens at the top and bottom of both sides of the back wall, the top of the arch wall, and around the base on the gazebo’s interior. Use exterior-rated wood glue and two-inch brad nails to secure these.

Then, proceed to secure the vertical battens. Use a level to align them with the studs on both sides of the back wall and the outside and center studs on the arched wall. Last but not least, install two battens at the corners of the arch.

Install 2×6 caps

Install 2×6 caps on the tops and undersides of the clad walls using exterior-grade wood glue and countersunk three-inch screws. Align them so the edges are flush with the 6×6 posts. Overhang the front stub wall posts by 3/4-in.

Finishing touches

• Use composite decking plugs to fill all screw holes. Companies that manufacture composite decking sell matching plugs to go with their screws. Be sure to order the appropriate plugs that match your decking finish. Line up the grain and tap them flush with a mallet.
• Ensure that all siding seams, gaps, and nail/screw holes are caulked or filled.
• Use color-matched paint to touch up the paint.
• Build a gravel path and composite decking step in front of the gazebo if needed.
• Lay mulch or landscape the area around the structure.

Add screens (optional)

Due to the high mosquito population in the upper Midwest during the summer months, we decided to add screens to the front and sides of the gazebo.

Hidden behind the arched wall, a roll-down screen was installed across the front of the gazebo, keeping pests out and creating shade during peak summer temperatures. We purchased a standard eight-foot wide roll-down screen from Amazon and followed the simple manufacturer instructions for installation. For the installation of side screens:

• Install two 2×6 mullions between the caps on the top and bottom walls to create three equal 45-in. tall x 31-in. wide openings. Secure the mullions in place with exterior-rated wood glue and pocket screws.
• Construct the six screens using aluminum frame screen kits purchased at the home center. Make sure your screens are 1/4 inch smaller in both directions than your openings.
• As a stop, trim the inside of every screen opening with 3/4-in. x 3/4-in. trim pieces all around the opening. Cut these pieces from the same material as the wall caps and mullions.  To ensure that the screen is centered in the opening from front to back, offset them 5/32-in. towards the exterior side of center.
• Push the screens tightly against the 3/4-in. by 3/4-in. trim pieces on the interior of the gazebo. Install 1-1/2-in. trim head screws covered with white wire shelving caps against the interior side of the aluminum frame of the screen to hold them in place.

FAQ

Do gazebos increase property value?

Yes, gazebos can increase property value by enhancing outdoor living space and curb appeal, particularly in areas where outdoor entertainment is popular year-round.

What’s the difference between a pergola and a gazebo?

The roof. Pergolas typically have an open or slatted roof, which offers partial shade, whereas gazebos have solid roofs that offer complete weather and sun protection.

The post How To Build a Modern Gazebo to Enhance Your Outdoor Space appeared first on Family Handyman.

Although smooth walls have been the trend for many years now, some homes still have popcorn or textured ceilings. As with all walls in your home, there will come a time when you may want to paint it. Since popcorn and textured ceilings capture and trap dust and grim, they can look dingy over time. Even when you try to clean them, they just don’t look fresh and crisp, and you come to the crossroads of deciding to paint them. Before moving forward with painting, carefully consider your long-term plans for the ceiling, as painting over popcorn texture will make it significantly more difficult and costly to remove in the future should you decide to do so.

Painting any textured or rough surface has its challenges and requires a bit more effort than painting a smooth surface. Most importantly, it requires the thickest nap roller you can find. If you have ever painted a rough or textured surface with a thin nap roller, you know how frustrating it can be. Here is the lay of the land when approaching a popcorn ceiling with paint.

Do popcorn ceilings have asbestos?

Popcorn ceilings or textured ceilings applied in the 1980s or earlier are likely to contain some amount of asbestos, which is known to cause cancer.  If you’re not sure when your popcorn ceiling was installed, you can send a sample off to home centers to check if it contains asbestos. If uncertain, wear protective gear, such as safety glasses and a mask, to avoid coming into contact with crumbling texture or dust particles. If left undisturbed, the popcorn ceiling may be painted over, which is not harmful.

Mask the ceiling before painting

Before painting, clean the surface well to eliminate dust and loose particles. Dust and loose particles prevent the paint from properly adhering to any surface.

Use two-inch wide painter’s tape to mask off the edges of the outer perimeter of your ceiling. Ensure good adhesive bonding of the tape to seal the edge and avoid paint bleeds under the tape line. This is particularly important if the color of the walls differs from the color of the ceiling.

Protect floors and furniture with drop cloths

When using thick nap paint rollers, a lot of paint splatter will be generated during the painting process. Protect your floors and furniture with drop cloths or tarps to avoid paint droplets from getting everywhere. Additionally, wear clothes you won’t mind getting paint on, and protect your eyes by wearing safety glasses.

Cut in around the edges

Cut in around the edges of the room using a 1-1/2-to-2 in. angled trim brush to get into the nooks and crannies of the texture. Be generous when loading the brush with paint. Be careful not to push the paint too deeply into the tape’s edge, as this may cause it to bleed underneath. Use light brush strokes to avoid disturbing or damaging the texture.

Tip: Textured painter’s tape will leak paint through the wrinkles and under the texture, resulting in paint bleed that requires touchups. Choose painter’s tape with the smoothest texture for a clean paint edge.

Painting popcorn ceiling

Ceilings are usually painted in a flat finish unless they are located in high-moisture areas, such as bathrooms. Using a generous amount of paint, roll the paint onto the ceiling in random directions. Crisscross the roller as you go to force paint into the crevices of the texture. Think of making X and W patterns with your roller movement. In areas where a paint roller is too cumbersome to operate, use the trim brush to force the paint into the deep pockets of the popcorn drywall texture.

If you splatter paint on something not protected by a dropcloth, try to clean it up before the paint has fully dried. The fresher the paint splatter droplets, the easier they will be to remove.

Allow the paint to dry and apply a second coat. In most cases, two coats are sufficient, but depending on the coarseness of your ceiling and the paint you choose, more coats may be required.

Tip: Ceilings are usually painted white or light colors to reflect light back into the room. A darker paint color will absorb the light – which may be a conscious choice for a space such as a home theater.

Remove the painter’s tape and clean up

Once the paint has dried, gently remove the painter’s tape used to mask off the edges. Be careful not to pull off the texture that has been bonded to the edge of the tape. Remove the drop cloths and clean your painting supplies.

FAQ

Can I use a paint sprayer on a popcorn ceiling?

You may consider using a paint sprayer to paint a popcorn ceiling.  This will save on actual paint time but will require a lot more prep time. Using a paint sprayer will require the whole room to be fully protected because of the large amount of overspray. It comes down to personal preference. Ask professional painters, and half will say, “Definitely use a brush and roller,” and the other half will say, “Definitely use a paint sprayer.” For me, it comes down to the configuration of the room: how much furniture is in there?  What is the surface of the floor?  How tall are the ceilings?  The right choice is the one you feel most comfortable with.

What if I don’t want to paint a ceiling white?

White is highly reflective of light and will help a room feel bigger. If you want a bit of color but not a stark white, some professionals will mix a ratio of white with the color being used on the walls, so the ceiling lends itself to a complementary color but isn’t stark white.  Be sure to do a test, focusing on the color when it is dry.  Wet paint is deceiving because it is usually a different color than when it is dry. Think of saving a small amount of the mixed paint or make a note of the ratio used in the mix should you need to touch it up in the future.

What type of paint should I use for the ceiling?

More often than not, especially in new construction, you will find a ceiling painted with primer and no additional topcoat. If you desire a specific color match, you may add a topcoat over the primer.

Paint manufacturers are now selling paint specifically designed for ceilings. The difference between ceiling paint and primer is that ceiling paint is thicker, which may make additional coats less necessary. Ceiling paint comes in flat or low-gloss sheen.

Both primers and ceiling paints are manufactured to be stain-resistant, which means they are less likely to absorb smoke, cooking vapors, and other substances. Both ceiling paint and primers are also mildew-resistant.

The post The Ultimate Guide to Painting a Popcorn Ceiling Like a Pro appeared first on Family Handyman.

Closets are a precious space in any house. That’s why you’ve probably heard, “I don’t have enough closet space,” or “My closets are just too small!” more times than you can count.

Seeking solutions to maximize closet space without sacrificing tidiness, I turned to professional home organizer Rachel Winter from Happy Home Organizers. She gave this striking advice: “Don’t put anything but a clothes hamper for laundry on the floor of your closet.” This made sense: a clutter-free floor instantly makes a closet look neater and more spacious – but who can afford to lose out on all that floor space?

This insight sparked an idea – what if we could create a customized closet organizer that accommodated a laundry hamper, fabric storage bins, and shoes, all while giving the illusion of a clutter-free floor? Here, I’ll share my design and step-by-step instructions to help you create your own, which you can easily adapt to your specific storage needs.

The concept is simple: Let’s build an organizer that maximizes the space inside your closet. Everything in its place and a place for everything is the perfect motto for this project.

Before you begin

• Pre-paint all the wood to make touch-ups easier. If you can purchase primmed 1x2s, that will also make your process simpler and faster.
• Purchase the laundry hamper and fabric storage bins before starting the building process to get their dimensions. The size of these accessories will determine the height, length, and depth of your project. Allow additional space in your design for ease of access. Our accessories measured:
  • Laundry Hamper: 24″w x 25″h x 14″d
  • Fabric Storage Bins: 12-3/4″w x 12-3/4″h x 14-3/4″d

Project Overview

Cutting List

Build the top and bottom frames

Cut the pieces for the long sides (A) along with the sides (B) for the outer frames of your closet organizer. Join the pieces using wood glue, 18ga. brad nails and screws to create two frames, one for the top and one for the bottom of your completed unit.

Divide the base

To make two compartments, install the bottom shelf divider (F) between the long frame pieces (A) of the bottom frame. Install it so the hamper side is 24-3/4 inches wide and the other side is 38-inches wide. This side will serve as the bottom shelf. Please adjust this dimension if you intend to use a hamper with different dimensions.

Install legs in the corners

Using wood glue and two-inch screws, join the top and bottom frames with four legs (C), installing one in each corner.

Install the bottom plywood

Install the hamper bottom plywood (D) and bottom shelf plywood (E) in the openings on either side of the bottom shelf divider (F) installed at the bottom of the unit. Use nails, wood glue and screws to secure it in place flush to the bottom edge of the long (A) and side (B) frame pieces.

Install the middle legs

Install the last two legs (C) between the long frame pieces (A) on the front and back of the organizer so they are aligned with the hamper-side edge of the bottom shelf divider (F). Use a level to ensure they are plumb.

Install support for shelves

Determine the shelf height at which the fabric storage bins will fit. The shelf supports (G) should be installed 3/4-inch lower than this to allow space for the plywood shelf (H) to be installed. They should be glued, nailed and screwed in place level between the legs (C) on the left of the unit and the legs (C) aligned with the bottom shelf divider (F) near the center of the organizer. The top of our closet organizer’s supports (G) were installed 13-3/4-inches below the bottom edge of the long frame pieces (A) on top of the unit.

Install the middle shelf

Lay the middle shelf (H) onto the shelf supports (G) and install it flush to the outside edges of the supports (G). Use a small level to ensure the shelf is level and nails and wood glue to lock it in place.

Install trim on front and back of shelf

To cover the raw edges of the plywood middle shelf (H) on the front and back of the closet organizer, install the middle shelf trim piece (J) flush to the top of the shelf (H) and in between the legs (C).

Install top

Install the plywood top shelf (K) flush with the top of the unit above the middle shelf (H) where the storage bins will be located. You may find it easier to install this piece by turning the entire unit upside down. Use wood glue, brad nails, and screws to secure the top through the long (A) and side (B) frame pieces at the top of the organizer.

Fill holes with putty, caulk seams, sand and touch up with paint

After the entire unit has been assembled, fill all nail and screw holes with wood filler and caulk all visible seams with painter’s caulk. After the filler and caulk have dried, sand back the filler to create an even and level surface. Then, retouch the paint for a smooth and even finish.

FAQ

Where does one start with closet organization?

You can’t organize a closet until you know what is already in it and what you want to put in it. Start with an inventory of what is in your closet. Throw away anything broken, ripped or no longer useful. Donate anything someone else may get use from. Now there’s more room to sort the things you want to keep.

What if my closet is too small for everything I want to store in it?

Consider sorting your clothes or accessories by season. Hang the items you want for the season on the closet rod, and store the stuff you won’t be using. Trade them out with the change of seasons.

The post Maximize Space, Minimize Mess: How to Build a Closet Organizer That Works appeared first on Family Handyman.

Snap Lines on the Sand

You can stretch a string between stakes to create a layout line for setting bricks, but simply snapping a chalk line in the sand is quicker, plus you don’t have a string in the way. With layout lines snapped on the sand, laying bricks is faster and easier. The chalk won’t stick to dry sand, so you may have to mist the sand with water before snapping lines. Then, snap layout lines directly on the sand using a standard carpenter’s chalk line reel.

Simple Lawn Edging

To edge your lawn, garden, or flowerbed, lay down a 2×6. While holding the board with your foot, drive a flat spade along its edge. Move the board as needed to create a clean, straight line.

Save Your Back with Dollies

Roll Heavy Stones Over PVC Pipe

Move really heavy stones by rolling them over lengths of PVC pipe, much like the ancient Egyptians did.

Plant-in-a-Pot Landscaping Design

Ever wish you could reorganize your garden after seeing how the mature plants look? Here’s a clever way to do it. You’ll need a bunch of pots of the same size so they’ll nest in each other. Put your plants in doubled pots, and then bury them at ground level. Whenever you want a change, lift out the top pot and put in a different one. This method is also really slick for bringing plants indoors over the winter. This method is great for quickly changing out seasonal plants and allows for easy experimentation with the color and placement of plants and flowers.

Cover Your Grass With Plywood

Keep Sand in the Cracks

Dry sand tends to get washed away or swept out of paver brick and stone patio joints. One solution is to use special polymeric sand that binds together when wetted. You can buy the polymeric additive and mix it with dry sand yourself, or you can buy premixed bags of sand. Premixed sand is the most convenient solution. A bag covers about 120 sq. ft. on paver bricks. Check with landscape suppliers and home centers. Make sure there is no sand on the surface of the brick or stone before you wet it.

Easy Mulch Spreading

Getting mulch up close to flowers and bushes is easier if the mulch is in a small container. So, I place buckets and pails in my wheelbarrow and fill them up with mulch. It doesn’t matter much if the mulch misses the bucket and lands in the wheelbarrow. Once you’re done dumping the buckets, dump what’s left in the wheelbarrow in an open area and spread it out. — Eric Swartz

Apply a Stabilizing Sealant

Invest in a Heavy-Duty Tarp

Nothing is quite so useful in landscaping projects as a durable tarp. It’s excellent for moving leaves, weeds, soil, and small rocks (among other materials) quickly and safely when working in the yard. You can also use it to cover plants or landscaping materials on a truck bed when transporting them or to protect projects from a fierce storm. Just don’t leave a tarp lying out on the lawn for too long, or it will kill your grass.

Spray Water to Keep the Dust Down

Hardscape with Permeable Materials

Inexpensive patio pavers set in a grid and surrounded by trap rock make an elegant, simple and environmentally friendly courtyard. Patios, walkways, courtyards and other hardscape elements add a bit of magic to any yard and reduce landscaping chores. Choose materials and designs that allow rainwater to permeate the soil to irrigate plantings, minimize erosion and prevent runoff. These include organic mulches, gravel, stone and permeable pavers.

Save Your Fingertips with Athletic Tape

Use Polyurethane Adhesive

Mortar is traditionally used to secure the top courses of stone on a wall. However, polyurethane adhesive does the same thing without the hard work and mess of mixing mortar or the skill needed to trowel it on. Also, polyurethane stays flexible, so it doesn’t crack and fall out like mortar does. Combine stone chips with the adhesive to shim stones to keep them steady until the adhesive cures. Polyurethane adhesive is available at home centers and is at least as strong as dedicated landscape adhesives.

Pack Gravel in Layers

Depending on the type of soil, most paths, patios and walls require an 8- to 12-in.- deep compacted base of gravel. But if you just dump 8 in. of gravel into a trench and run a plate compactor over it, only the top few inches will be fully compacted. The uncompacted gravel will settle later, creating waves in the wall or path. For a fully compacted base that won’t settle, add the gravel in 2- or 3-inch-deep layers and run the plate compactor over each layer before adding the next one.
If you want to make your backyard even more exciting, you can add a basketball court to the gravel base!

Build in Drainage for Long-Lasting Walls

Water-soaked soil is the worst enemy of retaining walls because it exerts enormous pressure behind the wall. Adding good drainage behind block or stone walls is crucial for long-lasting, bulge-free walls. Start by laying perforated plastic drainage tubing along the base of the wall slightly above ground level so it can drain to daylight. Slope the tubing about 1/4 inch per foot.

Add Drainage Outlets Every 16 Feet

The post 17 Easy Landscaping Secrets To Transform Your Backyard appeared first on Family Handyman.

Most reach-in, standard-size bedroom closets do not have closet lighting in them. Who wants to fish and connect an electric wire from an outlet or light switch and drill through studs to connect a light in a closet? The simple fact is that a lack of light in a closet makes it difficult to see the true color of your clothing or track down where a specific item may be. How often have you used the light on your phone to see in a closet and pick out an outfit?  I am guilty of doing this many times!

The wonderful thing is that manufacturers have now developed battery-operated LED lights that look like recessed can lights and are perfect for your closet space. Some of the battery-operated LED options have a sensor triggering the light to come on the second you step into the closet, and you have a choice of on, off or auto.   The installation is easy, making it a perfect weekend DIY project you won’t regret. Let the light in with this easy closet upgrade!

Identify and mark installation locations

To help determine where the ceiling lights should be placed, do a test run to determine where the light will spill when the light is on.  Install the batteries, turn the light on, and hold it up to the ceiling.  Putting the light directly in the center of the closet ceiling may not be the best option, as clothing rods or items on upper shelves may block the pool of light, creating shadows rather than illuminating. I found that placing the light centered between the upper shelf unit and closet doors allows for the most light to spill.

If your light has an automatic light sensor, it is imperative that the mounting plate be installed at the location where the main body of the light will be positioned to place the light sensor towards the opening of the closet door. You want the sensor to be triggered immediately upon opening the doors. If the sensor faces the closet’s back wall, it may not trigger the light to come on as quickly as you would like it to.

Mark the mounting plate screws

Separate the light from the mounting plate. Hold the mounting plate on the ceiling at the chosen location. Trace the screw placement slots onto the ceiling at your desired location.

The slots allow the plate to be moved back and forth before you tighten it against the ceiling.

Secure the mount

Once you know where you want to attach the mounting plate and before screwing it into position, you must determine if you will be securing it into hollow ceiling drywall or into the wood joists. Use a stud finder to determine where the ceiling joists are and if they correspond with the screw placement of your mounting plate.

You have two options for securing the mounting plate. Screw straight through the drywall into the ceiling joist with a 1-1/4-in. screw. Or, install a drywall anchor and then screw into the anchor. Most manufacturers provide both options with your purchase. To prevent the plastic mounting plate from splitting under pressure, don’t over-tighten the screws.

You may need to use a combination of screws and drywall anchors for your desired LED pot lights placement.

Tip: To prevent drywall dust from getting all over your items in the closet, use a plastic cup drilled on the drill bit shaft to catch debris as you hollow out for the anchor. When drilling, lightly hold the plastic cup against the ceiling to allow drywall dust and debris to fall into it.

Attach the light to mounting plate

Align the light’s main body with the mounting plate secured to the ceiling. Rotate and lock into place until it is securely in place.

FAQ

Are there different styles of lights not requiring wiring?

Yes, you will find many styles of LED lights that will work well in a closet and don’t require electric wiring.  Some look like canned recessed lights, others look like light strips. The shallower the profile of the light, the more it will look like it is recessed. Some closet lighting options for a closet have sensors and on, off or auto buttons.

Are non-wired lights fixtures for closets expensive?

With any home DIY project, price is always relative.  The wonderful thing is there are price options to go with different finishes and styles.  Do the homework and select the best one for you.

The post The Simplest Way to Install Closet Lighting: No Wiring Required appeared first on Family Handyman.

Have you ever had a closet rod fall with ALL the clothes still hanging on it? I will be completely transparent and share that, yes, that has happened to me. Albeit, this was before I had any clue about how to hang things properly. So, now that I DO know a thing or two about anchors, studs and load-bearing weight, I want to share with you my tips and tricks for hanging a long clothes rod in a bedroom closet.

First, determine if you want a wood closet rod or a metal closet rod. Additionally, ensure the closet rod diameter corresponds with the closet rod brackets you choose. 1-1/4 inch is the standard size and allows most clothes hangers to fit easily. Rods made of metal will support more weight and sag less over time, but they will cost more to purchase.

Next, think about what this rod needs to support to determine how many brackets you should use. Full clothing rods can weigh over 250 pounds, especially if there is a closet shelf above them. You will always need a bracket in each corner and in the center. But don’t be afraid to use more than that, especially if children may try to climb on them or if you are a serious shopper.

Find the wall studs

Find and mark the location of buried studs in the wall using a stud finder. By doing this, you can determine the location of clothing rod brackets in relation to the wall studs.

Determine the height

By using the closet rod brackets as a guide, determine the height at which you would like the rods to be secured. A standard height for clothing rods in a closet is 60 inches to the top of a single rod. For a double rod, the top of the lower rod should be 40- to 42-in. off the ground, and the upper rod should be an additional 40 to 42 inches above that. This measurement may be adjusted to suit your height, your ceiling height, and your ease of access.

Make wood bracket supports

Cut and paint wood bracket supports from 1×3 material that will be sandwiched between the wall and the closet rod brackets. In addition to providing solid wood for screwing the closet rod brackets to, these boards allow us to move the closet rod brackets in the closet corners a little towards the center of the closet, allowing the closet rod brackets to be tied into studs without being all the way in the corner. If you have adequate access to wall studs or would rather rely on drywall anchors, bracket supports are optional.

Install wood bracket supports

Secure the 1×3 bracket supports to the wall using construction adhesive and 2-1/2 in. screws into the studs. Be careful not to obstruct the screw placement of closet rod brackets with screws securing the wood block to the studs. Use a level to ensure that the bracket supports are plumb and level on the wall. Heavy-duty wall anchors can be used if a stud is not located close to your bracket support. It is, however, always preferable to attach the bracket to the framing.

Once the bracket supports have been installed, paint the screws’ heads to further hide them.

Install closet rod brackets

Secure the closet rod brackets to the wood bracket supports with screws. The closet rod brackets may be installed directly into the drywall with anchors, or if you find studs conveniently located, screws may be placed directly through the closet rod bracket and into the studs. Again, be sure to use a drywall anchor with plenty of weight capacity. Clothes are heavier than you think.

Secure rod to brackets

Place the clothing rod in place on the closet rod brackets. Depending on the type you purchased, either cut or expand the rod to the desired length and secure it with screws provided from under the hook on the closet rod bracket.

FAQ

How far apart should I install support brackets to hold a clothing rod?

Ideally, you want a clothing rod to be supported at both ends and every 32 inches (every other wall stud) in between.

How do I hang a closet rod so it rounds a corner?

To take the corner with a closet rod, you can purchase a rod for corners that can hang at an angle, or you can purchase an “L”-shaped clothes rod and incorporate it into your long straight run. Be sure you have the correct supports and that the closet storage system chosen will work with the clothes rod you have purchased.

The post 6 Simple Steps to Hang a Long Clothes Rod in Your Closet appeared first on Family Handyman.

Curtains are a welcome accessory to any room.  Like a piece of jewelry, curtains can add a lot of depth to an environment if done well. But if curtains aren’t done properly, it draws the eye in a highly unflattering way.

And just like a good accessory, curtains and curtain rods can get expensive.  Seriously, the only reason I purchased a sewing machine was to save money making my living room curtains.  I preferred to spend the money on a very nice piece of curtain fabric that would have cost me a ton if I purchased the SAME material in an already-made curtain.

The same thought process applies to the curtain rod. I invested in hole saw bits for my drill press with a specific diameter so I could cut the wood rings I wanted. In the end, it truly is an investment, as these tools will be used repeatedly for many other projects. Besides, I love nothing more than telling guests, “I made them!”

When making curtain rods, there are many ways to go. Metal, wood, plastic? The bottom line is that, beyond serving its function by holding a curtain, a curtain rod can add some flair to the space and reflect the characteristics of the style. Decide on the color of the finish and make sure it complements the other finishes in the space.

Get as fancy or simple as you wish. Enjoy the process… To make your life easier, I share the steps with a couple of my favorite techniques: Pyrography and decorative paint finishes. Enjoy!

Bracket Overview

Cutting List

Make the brackets

Cut the top caps (A) and back legs (B) for your curtain rods and nail them together using wood glue and brad nails, forming an “L bracket.”  Orient the top cap (A) on top of the back leg (B). If your curtain rod will be longer than four feet, or if the curtain’s fabric is heavier, make an additional bracket to serve as a center support and prevent the rod from sagging in the middle.

Make the rings

Using a 2-1/8-in. hole saw in a drill press, cut a circle from 1×3 material for each bracket you made. Hole saws are measured by the outside diameter so a 2-1/8-in. hole saw will cut a 2-inch circle or one just slightly shy of it. Place a sacrificial board underneath the 1×3 to prevent blowing out on the back side of the circle when the hole saw cuts through.

Create a ring by cutting a hole through the center of the roughly 2-in. circle with a 1-1/4-in. hole saw. Use the same arbor hole from the 2-1/8-in. hole saw to center the 1-1/4-in. hole. When drilling with the smaller diameter 1-1/4-in. hole saw, use double stick tape to secure the circle to the sacrificial piece of wood underneath it. If necessary, lock the piece in place with other pieces of wood so that it does not move during the drilling process.

Once cut, sand the edges smooth and remove any cutting marks from the wood rings you have created.

Burn the ring edges (optional)

Utilizing a pyrography pen, create a texture of straight lines along the outer edge of the curtain rod rings.

Set the temperature by performing a test run with the same species of wood and tip you intend to use. If your pyrography pen does not have a temperature adjustment, you will have to adjust your speed as you burn.  You should move the pyrography pen faster if you are burning softwood. Slower if you’re burning harder wood. Also, slow down slightly when burning against the grain to prevent skips in your burn line.

Cut and drill the curtain rod

Cut the one-inch dowel to the length you require, usually 12 inches wider than the window opening.  Drill a 7/32-in. hole at each end, 1/2 inches from the rod end. These holes will accommodate the small tie rack peg we will use as a stop to prevent the rod from falling out of the ring when curtains are drawn or closed. Drill these holes with the dowel in the same orientation to keep them aligned and symmetrical.

Paint

Paint all pieces. First, apply two coats of black paint, and then build up the coats of your chosen metallic color to a solid finish. If you want a brushed metal look, lightly apply coats with a dry brush. If you want a solid metallic look, build up with layers. Keep in mind that your metallic paints will reflect the movement of your brush strokes. Most metallic paints will require more than the standard two coats of paint to achieve a solid look.

Pre-drill hanging holes

Pre-drill the mounting holes in the bracket’s back leg (B) with a countersink drill bit so that screws will be seeded flush with the surface.  The holes were drilled 1/2-in. down from the inner corner of the bracket and 1/4-in. in from the edges. Touch up the countersunk holes with primer and paint before installation.

Attach the rings

Position the painted rings so they are aligned and centered on brackets. Pre-drill countersunk holes from the backside of the top cap (A) and back leg (B) of the bracket, and use wood glue and one-inch screws to secure the rings in place.

How To Hang Curtain Rods

Determine the bracket placement

It is recommended that the brackets be positioned so that they are wider than the window opening in order to ensure that, when the curtains are drawn, they can completely cover the window. It is important to consider the length of your curtains as well as the location where you would like them to fall when determining the height of the bracket.

Decide how the curtain rod brackets will be attached to the wall. To determine what hardware to securely install your curtain rod brackets, use a stud finder to determine if you have a stud or hollow drywall at the desired location. Be mindful that some heavy curtains can weigh up to 50 pounds when choosing the appropriate screw or anchor.

Hang the curtain rods and curtains

Use the appropriate screws or anchors to secure the brackets to the wall.  A level should be used to ensure that the brackets are level with one another. After that, thread the curtains onto the rod and the rod through the brackets. To complete the installation and ensure the curtain rod is locked in place, insert the tie rack peg into the drilled holes at each end of the rod.

FAQ

Why use black paint as a primer for metallic paints?

When applying a metallic paint, always use a dark color to serve as a primer and help you get to the metallic finish with less coats and help the metallic have more brilliance when done.  Decorative painters often use black or red paint as a base color under silver, brass, gold or copper.

How high off the floor should my curtain be?

The proper height to hang curtains depends on the style and function of the room. Here are a few common options:

• Floor-length: Formal. Hangs 1/2 inch above floor, creating an elegant “kissing the floor” effect.
• Casual Length/Float Length: Sits about one inch above the floor for a relaxed, modern look and easy maintenance.
• Puddled Style: Extends 1-10 inches onto floor for dramatic luxury. Not recommended with children/pets.
• Shorter Length: Practical for specific situations like children’s rooms, areas with pets, or above radiators. Can make ceilings appear lower and room feel more casual.

The post DIY Curtain Rods: Add Personal Flair to Your Home appeared first on Family Handyman.

Mold has an amazing way of showing up in bathrooms, basements and around or behind baseboards. The bottom line is that mold spores are found in every household. However, mold can’t grow if moisture is eliminated.

You can’t and won’t ever be able to control mold if moisture levels are not controlled and if the mold has penetrated an organic surface and started to decompose it. This could be surfaces such as drywall, masonry, or wood. The other challenge is mold is everywhere, AND there are many, many types of common molds.

The good news is that if a surface has been painted and mold has not found its way below the surface and into organic matter, mold can be removed. It is a very fine line, but it is possible.

The single most common place to find mold in a home is a poorly ventilated bathroom. With every shower, mold is fed the main ingredient it needs to grow—moisture. Seeing black spots appear on your ceiling is a telltale sign you need a more effective fan or ventilation system to help rid the moisture faster so the mold doesn’t have an opportunity to grow. Mold can only be removed from a bathroom ceiling IF it hasn’t penetrated below the surface of the paint and into the actual drywall.

When to call a pro

In the event that the mold is widespread, larger than a 10-square foot area, or has penetrated the surface of the paint into the drywall, insulation, or framing, it is advisable to consult a mold abatement specialist to remove any exposed or damaged areas.

Safety considerations

When dealing with mold, whether it be removing it from a ceiling or even doing a DIY mold test, be sure to protect yourself. Mold spores are very small and easily airborne, and you don’t want to breathe them in. Always wear safety glasses, a respiratory mask and plastic gloves when dealing with mold.

Here are the steps to help clean up mold and keep it under control.

Clean mold with vinegar

Start by saturating the mold with distilled white vinegar (containing 5% acetic acid) or cleaning vinegar (containing 6% acetic acid) using a spray bottle. You can mix a vinegar and water solution if the smell bothers you, but I would not advise diluting more than 1:1. Let it soak for around ten minutes and begin wiping it away. Avoid rubbing the mold around; you want to wipe it off as much as possible. With each wipe, fold the cloth over to maintain a clean area to avoid spreading mold. If you have a particularly stubborn spot, apply another round of vinegar. Let it sit for a few more minutes, and wipe it down again.

When you have removed all the surface mold from your bathroom ceiling, wipe down the ceiling and surrounding areas. Throw away all the towels used to clean the mold. Allow the area to dry completely.

As an alternative, you can follow these steps using 3% hydrogen peroxide. However, never mix vinegar and hydrogen peroxide. Together they create peracetic acid, which can irritate the eyes, skin and respiratory system.

Apply primer

Once the area has completely dried, apply two coats of primer. Mold stains are hard to cover, so the second coat of primer is necessary.

Apply paint

Once the primer has fully dried and you are satisfied with the stain coverage, apply at least two coats of paint.  Semi-gloss is the recommended paint finish for bathroom ceilings.

Pro Tip: Pool paint works great for bathroom walls and ceilings – it is mildew and mold-resistant and designed to live in moisture, sealing the organic material out and preventing mold from finding a place to live. 

FAQ

What can I do to minimize mold in my home?

In order to prevent mold growth in your home, keep your home well-ventilated with fans of appropriate sizes in the bathrooms and open your curtains to allow the sunlight to shine through. Make sure you are aware of any water leaks or water damage to your ceiling, and repair it as soon as possible. To deter mold, occasionally spray your bathroom ceiling with mold removal spray.

Is vinegar or bleach better for mold on ceilings?

For ceiling mold removal, vinegar kills mold more effectively than bleach. Unlike bleach, which only treats the surface and contains water that can promote regrowth, vinegar’s high acidity destroys mold down to its roots, especially on porous surfaces like drywall.

The post Clearing Mold Off Your Bathroom Ceiling: A Step-by-Step Guide appeared first on Family Handyman.

Simple closet updates like installing new sliding closet doors adds style and value to any home. Doors, as a general rule, can be a complex installation project.  However, manufacturers are now making sliding closet doors lightweight and easy to install with all the necessary hardware provided. New sliding closet doors can be installed in less than an hour, with focus and determination.

Before purchasing your sliding door, take precise measurements of the width and height of your closet opening. Ours was 60-in. wide x 80-in. tall.  Use that information to select your door according to the manufacturer’s recommended height and width ranges. The doors we purchased fit openings between 58- and 61-in. wide and 80- to 80-1/2-in. tall.

Here are the steps to installing sliding closet doors, along with a few tricks to make the process even easier.

Attach the sliding closet doors hardware

All sliding closet doors will have hardware that works specifically with the track it is created for. Some doors come delivered with this hardware already attached to the top of the door. Others, require you to attach the hardware yourself. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for hardware installations and spacing. Pre-drill pilot holes for the hardware so that it will stay exactly where you want it while you screw it in place.

Install the closet door top track

Identify the center of the header of your closet opening and screw the top track into place. The location of this track will determine the vertical position of the closet doors. You may cheat the track forward or back in the opening – just ensure that the track edge is recessed at least 1/2-in. from the front or back edge of the closet opening so that the screws are embedded in the header framing rather than the drywall.

Place doors on track

Start with the inside door (the one furthest inside the bedroom closet opening) and attach the wheels of the hardware to the track. Ensure that it is securely clicked into place so that it will not fall off the track. Test it to make sure it slides easily from side to side and stays on track. Once that’s done, do the same for the outer door.

Tip: It is extremely helpful to have another person around to assist you in getting the doors on the track. Particularly if the sliding closet doors are heavy or awkward to lift.

Cut base board if needed

With the closet doors hanging level and plumb, slide them out to their outermost position. If the baseboard around your closet opening prevents the doors from landing flush against the sides, you will need to cut some of it out. Determine where each door will be positioned within the opening. Mark the baseboard and decide whether it can be removed, cut, and reinstalled easily or if you will need to use an oscillating tool or pull saw to do it in place. In some cases, it is easier to cut new pieces of baseboard, paint and install them rather than attempt to salvage a few slivers of the current one.

Install door guide at the bottom center of opening

Install the door guide into the bedroom flooring on the bottom, center of the sliding door opening. Again, double-check with a level to make sure the doors are level and plumb when finalizing the placement of the guide. This will keep the doors in line and prevent them from falling off the track when sliding from side to side.

Install trim piece to hide tracks in the opening

Most sliding door manufacturers provide a trim piece of wood to cover the top track once the doors are installed. If your doors don’t not include this piece, simply find a thin profile piece of trim that can be painted to match the door and installed.

Tip: If you choose to paint the doors, it is best to do it before you hang them. The benefit of having doors on a track is if you choose to paint them later on you can simply take them off the track, paint them on saw horses, and place them back on the track after the paint has dried.

FAQ

Do sliding closet doors need a bottom track?

Regardless of whether it is a full track or a center-mounted guide, sliding closet doors must be supported by a bottom track to ensure alignment with the top track and to prevent sliding doors from swinging inward or outward, which may result in damage to the top track or the derailment of the doors.

How much should sliding closet doors overlap?

Most manufactures recommend a one inch overlap between the doors when they are closed. This allows the closet to have the widest opening possible for easy access into the closet and ensure they the sliding closet doors close the opening all the way around.

The post Don’t Hire a Pro: Here’s How To Install Sliding Closet Doors Yourself appeared first on Family Handyman.

This loft bed design maximizes the area between the mattress and floor, offering customizable bedroom storage solutions like drawers, shelves, and, in our case, a retractable desk.

Built in collaboration with cabinet maker Ethan O’Donnell, the headboard, footboard, mattress frame, dresser, and cubbies were all constructed separately and then assembled at the end to form the final product. Here is a step-by-step explanation of the process.

Before we begin

There are a few common themes throughout this build. Instead of reviewing them every time, I laid them out beforehand.

• Everything was finished beforehand. You may have noticed that I always pre-finish my materials to make touch-ups and finishing touches easier. The components were all primed, painted, and polyurethaned prior to assembly.
• The plywood edges were edge banded with iron-on edgebanding. We cleaned up the edges of the edge-banded plywood with a file, chisel, and sandpaper and painted them throughout the process.
• Filling nail and screw holes and touching up paint are also procedures that were completed throughout the building process rather than waiting until the end.
• The joining method was the same. Except where otherwise noted, all parts were set using wood glue and 1-1/2-in. brad nails and secured with pre-drilled and countersunk 1-1/2-in. screws.

Mattress Frame

Cutting List

* – 45° angled cuts at each end. Cut to fit.

Build the mattress frame

The exact size of your mattress will determine the width of your mattress frame, which will, in turn, determine the width of the footboard and headboard. Make this measurement with a tape measure. Don’t go by what is stated on the box mattress website or packaging, as you’ll quickly learn that those aren’t exact.

Make the inside dimensions of the mattress frame 1-1/2-in. wider and longer than the actual mattress dimensions. Join the long sides(A) with the short sides (B) using wood glue, nails and screws.

When the glue has dried, install angled gussets (C) in the four corners and a center slat (B) that runs down the middle of the frame, flush to the bottom edge of the sides (A and B).  These pieces will keep the mattress frame square and sturdy.

Cut the plywood bottom pieces to fit into the mattress frame. Because of their size, you will need to cut them out of two separate sheets of plywood.  Nail and screw the bottom (D) into place, securing them to the gussets (C) and the center slat (B).

Dresser

Cutting List

Build the cabinet

This loft bed project features a straightforward dresser build with a unique design. In addition to the pull-out desk, the dresser has two bottom drawers on casters that can be completely rolled out from the cabinet.

Cut all of your parts for your dresser. Take the dresser sides (A) over to the table saw to cut dados.

With your dado blades set to the plywood thickness, cut the dados and rabbets at the dimensions in the image above on the dresser sides (A). I prefer 1/8-in. deep dados to ensure perfect alignment yet not compromise the integrity of the side pieces. After all your dados have been cut, cut a 3/4-in. wide x 3/8-in. deep rabbet along the back edge of the shelf (B) and two sides (A).

Install the dresser stretchers (C) and shelf (B) flush to the front edge of the sides. Secure the back stretchers (C) flush to the shoulder of the 3/8-in. rabbit along the back edge.

Slide in the dividers (D, E, F), and secure them so they are square and centered along the shelf (B) and stretchers (C).

Install the back (G) into the rabbet along the back edge of the shelf (B) and two sides (A), making sure it is a tight fit and that the back is cut square. Glue, screw, and nail it into the rabbet on the sides (A) and shelf (B), and into the back edges of the stretchers (C) and dividers (D, E, F).

Make the drawers

Cut a 1/2-in. wide x 1/4-in. deep dado, a 1/2-in. up from the bottom edge of the drawer sides (J) and drawer box fronts (K) for top four drawers. For the bottom two drawers that are going to be on casters, cut the same 1/2-in. wide by 1/4-in. deep dado, except make it 2-in. from the bottom edge of the drawer sides (J) and fronts (K).

Using thick CA glue and brad nails, nail together the drawer box fronts (K), sides (J), and backs (L, M). Be sure the edges of the drawer backs are flush to both the top edge of the sides and top shoulder of the dado cut into the sides.

Once the glue has cured, slide the drawer bottoms (N) into the dados (with a little wood glue in them) and put a couple of nails through the bottom side of the drawer bottom into the bottom edge of the drawer backs (L, M).

Install the drawer slides and casters

When choosing drawer slides, I look for three things: durability, affordability, and foolproof installation. Hence, I chose to use bottom-mount drawer slides.

Install the drawer box side of the slide so that the end is flush with the front edge of the drawer box. On the cabinet side of the slide, install it so it it sitting on the stretchers and there’s a 1/16-in. gap between the front edge of the slide and the cabinet’s front. Since the dadoes run along the entire length of the dresser sides (A), we can ensure that the stretchers (C) are aligned, which will, in turn, align the slides. For these slides, it is crucial that the drawer box is one inch smaller than the opening in the casework and that the divider (D, E, F) and dresser sides (A) are parallel.

Rigid rubber casters support the bottom two drawers so they can be completely rolled out of the cabinet. Considering the drawer bottoms (N) on the bottom drawers are recessed two inches, and the casters are 2-1/2-in. tall, the casters will hold the drawer box a half inch off the ground. It is important that these casters are rigid non swiveling casters. Nail small guide strips along the lower cabinet divider and bottom openings of the cabinet sides to ensure the drawers stay aligned.

Once you are sure that the drawers slide smoothly, take them out and round over the top edges of the sides (J), front (K), and back (L, M) with a 1/4-in. round-over bit in the router, fill nail holes, and touch up polyurethane on all six drawer boxes.

Build the desk

The desk is constructed from a large piece of plywood (P) and a single leg comprised of two uprights (Q) and three stretchers(R), all glued and pocket screwed together. The leg is attached to the underside of the plywood desktop (P) with a piano hinge, which allows the desk to be folded up and inserted into the opening at the top of the dresser.

In the dresser opening, two 1×2 runners (H) have been screwed into the shelf (B) along the sides, and drawer slide friction tape has been applied to all surfaces that come into contact with the underside or legs of the desk.

The desk simply folds up and slides in and out of the opening. There is a 1×4 stop block (S) that was screwed to the plywood desktop’s (P) back edge at installation, so it can’t slide all the way out. The most important aspect of this desk is the friction hinge attached to the bottom and the inside of the leg of the desk in order to prevent the leg from slamming down during setup and pinching the user’s fingers.

Install the drawer fronts

The drawer fronts are laid out with a 3/8-in. gap along the floor to ensure the bottom drawers won’t get caught up on the rug and 1/4-in. gaps between all the other surrounding drawer fronts and the cabinet sides. This means that the drawer fronts (U, T) and upper opening faces (V) will overhang the center dividers (D, E, F) and stretchers (C) by 1/4-in. and the dresser sides (A) and top stretcher by 1/2-in.

Prepare the drawer box fronts (K) by predrilling holes inside all of them. Using strong two-sided tape, adhere the drawer fronts (U, T) to the drawer box fronts (K) and screw them in place through the drawer interiors using one-inch screws.

Start with the grey bottom drawer fronts (U) and work your way up to the upper yellow fronts (T) and upper opening faces (V). Cut 1/4-in. spacers to create the gaps on the sides of the cabinet and between the drawer fronts and upper openings.

Attach the upper opening face (V) on the right side of the dresser with glue and Brad nails. The face (V) on the left, to the front edge of the desktop (P) with glue, nails and screws. A plush carpet or rug may require a larger gap between the bottom drawer fronts (U) and the floor for the bottom drawers with casters to operate.

Cubbies

Cutting List

Assemble the cubbies

The dado joints cut into the cubby sides (A) are identical to those cut into the dresser sides, except that an additional rabbet along the bottom edge (of the same depth and width as the rest) is present. To align the dividers (B, C), I also cut a 3/4-in. wide by 1/8-in. deep dado down the center of both sides of the middle two cubby shelves and down one side of the top and bottom shelves (D).

Assemble the cubbies by attaching the four shelves (D) to the bottom rabbet and three dados in the cubby sides (A).  In the top dado, attach the stretcher (E) so that you’ll have something to nail the false cubby opening face (F) to after everything is edgebanded.

Next, add the dividers (B) between the shelves (D) with the short divider (C) on the bottom. Attach the top (B) and bottom (C) dividers first so you can nail through the shelves (D) into the divider above or below it, and toenail the center divider in place. The cubby back (G) is just butted against the back of the case and secured to the sides (A), dividers (B, C), and shelves (D).

Footboard

Cutting List

Assemble the footboard panel

On a large work surface layout the footboard (A) and ladder (B) plywood panels and the panel stiles (C) and outer ladder rail (D). Lay them face down and mark the locations for biscuits. Separate the pieces and cut your biscuit slots using a biscuit joiner so that the back edge of the stiles (C) and rail (D) are flush with the back edge of the plywood panels (A, B).

Once the biscuits have been cut, glue the footboard panel (A) and two stiles (C), as well as the ladder panel (B) and outer ladder rail (D) using wood glue and clamps.

Build the ladder rungs

Make the three ladder rungs out of the treads (E) and front (F) and rear supports (G). Attach the rear support (G) flush with the tread’s (E) back edge and the front support (F) so that the tread (E) overhangs it by 1/4-in.

Build the ladder

Glue the assembled rung through its rear support (G) into the plywood ladder panel (B). Space them apart so the tops of each rung are 12-in. apart. Attach the ladder rails (D) so that they align with the front ladder supports (F) on the rungs of the ladder with glue and three-inch screws. When securing these, ensure the top of the tread (E) is perpendicular to the back ladder panel (B). Then, glue the ladder panel (B) with attached ladder and rails to the headboard panel using wood glue, biscuits, and clamps.

Trim out the footboard and ladder

Attach the ladder bases(H) and ladder caps (J, K) so that they align with the ladder rails (D). For proper spacing, attach the ladder cap spacer (L) to the top of the ladder panel(B) between the center panel stile (C) and the left ladder cap (K). Connect these components with glue and three-inch screws, ensuring the top of the tread is perpendicular to the back ladder panel.

Complete the footboard by installing the top and bottom trim on the ladder (M) and footboard panel (N) . Next, attach the top caps to the ladder (P) and footboard panels (Q). Place them so that they overhang the backside of each panel by 3/4-in. and the ladder side by 1/2-in.

Headboard

Cutting List

* – 45° angled cuts at each end. Cut to fit.
** – Mitered top edge.

Build the headboard case

Build the headboard box out of the top cap (A), sides (B), and base (C). The top cap overhangs each side by 1/2-in.

Next, inset the headboard back (D) flush with the back edge of the top cap (A), sides (B), and base (C) and secure it to these components.

In the headboard shelf (E), cut a dado slightly wider than 3/4-in. x 3/8-in. deep. Position it 3/4-in. from the front edge to accommodate the sliding doors (F). After the dado is cut, install the headboard shelf (E) with the dado facing up 8-9/16-in. below the bottom of the top cap (A).

To prevent the headboard shelf (E) from bowing over time, attach the vertical support (G) centered on the bottom of the shelf (E). Connect this piece to the shelf (E), back (D), and the base (C).

Next, install the gussets (H) with mitered ends at the bottom corners of the headboard between the sides (B) and the base (C). These will provide strength and serve as a place to secure the bed pieces together during assembly.

Install the sliding door and partitions

Rather than run a stop-dado on the bottom side of the headboard top cap (A), I chose to build the upper guide for my sliding door out of two 1×2 guides (J). The front guide will be secured on its edge to the headboard cap (A) and the back guide on its face.  There should be a gap between the two guides (J) that is the same width (a little over 3/4-in.) and aligned directly above the dado you cut in the headboard shelf (E). This alignment is crucial for your doors (F) and dividers (K) to fit in and operate correctly.

Following the installation of the upper door guides, notch the two dividers (K) around the back guide rail (J) and install them in the headboard shelf (E) to create three evenly spaced openings (roughly 18-in. wide).  Secure these to the top cap (A), headboard shelf (E), and back (D) for strength.

To install the doors (F), rip a 45-degree miter along its top edge. Next, slide the doors into position by sliding the mitered point into the gap between the upper guides (J) and pivoting the bottom into the headboard shelf (E) dado from inside the headboard cabinet.

Assemble the loft bed

Cutting List

* – 45° angled cuts at each end. Cut to fit.

Make angle brackets

Make five angle brackets for the loft bed assembly. Connect two angle bracket sides (A) together to create an “L.” Then, attach the angle bracket gusset (B) to stiffen the “L” and hold the two legs exactly 90-degrees from one another.

Piece the bed together

Remove the drawers from the dresser and join it to the cubby unit by lining up the front edges and screwing the cubby (cubbies part A) and dresser sides (dresser part A) together using clamps to hold them in place. Pre-drill the holes using a counter sink bit and secure it with 1-1/4-in. screws, being careful not to poke the screw through the other side. Screws should be placed on every shelf level, one towards the front and one further back.

Align the front edge of the dresser side (dresser part A) with the left side of the headboard (headboard part B). Pre-drill 1-1/4-in. screws from inside the dresser side (dresser part A) into the side of the headboard (headboard part B) and the gusset (headboard part H) that is mounted there.

Using 1-1/4-in. screws, attach the cubby unit to the footboard by screwing through the inside of the cubby side (cubbies part A) into the back of the ladder panel (footboard part B). Drive these in at an angle or use a right-angle drill or attachment to seat these screws. We also attached the back of the cubbies (cubbies part G) to the back of the footboard panel (footboard part A) using the angle brackets we built in the last step at the top and bottom of the cubby unit.

For level installation of the mattress box, secure support legs (C) at the far ends of the headboard and footboard. Attach these with glue and three-inch screws flush to the back outside edge of the headboard side (headboard part B) and footboard stile (footboard part C). Between the support legs (A), attach the cross brace (B) along the floor and secure it to the back of the footboard panel (footboard part A), as well as the gusset (headboard part H) and base of the headboard  (headboard part C), using a couple more of those homemade angle brackets. Last but not least, install a vertical support (C) in the center of the cross brace (B). Screw it directly into the cross brace (B) at the bottom and use a final homemade angle bracket at the top to tie it into the mattress frame’s bottom center slat (mattress frame part B).

Once the bed is completely assembled, jump up into the mattress frame and sink a few screws through the short sides of the mattress frame (mattress frame part B) into the headboard and footboard in locations that will be hidden once the mattress is installed. Before installing the mattress, the last thing to do is to lock the entire bed into place by attaching the back, long side of the mattress frame (mattress frame part A) into a wall stud or two at its final location.

Finishing touches

For a striking contrast, paint the lower section of the loft bed in a different color (in this case grey) at the line of the lowest drawers. Tape off the line using a level and delicate surface painter’s tape.

For the best seal at the tape line and to prevent paint bleed, secure the tape and paint the tape edge with the base color. Allow it to dry, and then paint the lower section in the desired color. This will prevent the other paint color from finding its way under the tape and causing the need for detailed touch-ups.

Finally, install the pulls to the drawer fronts (dresser parts T and U), faces (dresser part V), and headboard doors (headboard part F).

FAQ

What is the difference between a captain’s bed and a loft bed?

A key difference between the two is the height and the type of space utilization. Traditionally, a captain’s bed (or storage bed) is a standard bed frame that is designed to maximize space in smaller rooms by incorporating storage directly into the frame. Loft beds, on the other hand, are usually raised much higher and create an entirely new usable area beneath the sleeping surface, which makes this bed the a mix of both worlds.

How tall are loft beds?

The height of a loft bed ranges from 36 to 75-in. The key dimension with loft bed height isn’t how high the sleeping surface is off the floor but rather how high the sleeping surface is from the ceiling. For an adult, this should be at least 33-in.

The post Elevate Your Space: Building the Perfect DIY Loft Bed appeared first on Family Handyman.

A gallery wall transforms a blank wall into a personal narrative, far more sophisticated than randomly hanging pictures here and there. This artistic display requires careful curation, thoughtful selection, and intentional arrangement. “A gallery wall isn’t about just throwing a screw up on the wall and haphazardly placing items,” explains Melissa Franco, senior set designer and stylist at Trusted Media Brands.

The art of creating a gallery wall involves understanding how various elements work together to create a cohesive visual story. Colors, sizes, textures, and themes must harmonize to produce a statement that reflects your unique style and personality. In this project, we will walk you through the detailed process of designing and installing a stunning gallery wall, from the initial concept to the final installation.

Choosing gallery wall components

When selecting items for your gallery wall, Franco recommends an intuitive approach: “I like to pick items that speak to me and will choose more items than I think I will need.” This strategy allows maximum creative flexibility and ensures you have options during the design process.

Begin with a focal point – typically the largest or most meaningful picture or piece. This anchor will guide the composition of surrounding elements. Your gallery can encompass a diverse range of items: framed photographs, original artwork, vintage posters, sculptural pieces, mirrors, or decorative objects. Use matching picture frames and similar subject matter for a uniform, organized look or try mixing varied pieces unified by a color palette or overall aesthetic.

The key is creating a collection that tells your story. “The beauty of a gallery wall is that you can choose whatever is most important to you!” Franco notes. Whether you’re showcasing family memories, travel experiences, or artistic collections, your gallery wall should feel personal and meaningful.

Gallery wall layout

Preparation is crucial to creating a visually compelling gallery wall. Franco suggests two primary layout methods: arranging items on the floor or large table or using scale paper cutouts to map potential arrangements on the wall. This preliminary step allows you to experiment with positioning without making permanent marks.

Pay close attention to how different pieces interact. “It’s the different sizes, space between, and orientation of items that creates movement and allows your eye to travel around your gallery wall,” Franco explains. Avoid rigid, perfectly symmetrical arrangements. Instead, embrace slight asymmetry to create visual dynamism and interest.

To create a flow that guides the viewer’s eye, consider varying the size of the components, keeping consistent spacing between them, and balancing colors and textures to create visual harmony and depth.

Take time to assess your arrangement. Photograph potential layouts to help you visualize the final composition. Remember, the goal is to create a harmonious, intentional and effortless display.

Installing the gallery wall

If you have drywall with studs, use a stud finder to determine where the studs are buried under the drywall. Mark the stud locations on the wall to help you remember them as you progress with installation. It is always best to hang even moderately heavy objects from studs. However, if your desired hanging location does not line up with a stud, install the appropriate wall anchor for the object’s weight.

Drive screws through the drywall and directly into the stud. To pierce metal studs, you will need to pre-drill with a metal drill bit slightly smaller than the screw you intend to use.

If you have lath and plaster walls, they consist of small wood slats called lath that is nailed over studs and then covered with plaster. Lath can be strong and solid or brittle due to aging or dry rot. Because the lathe slats cover the studs, it may be difficult to determine where the studs are located. For lightweight objects, screws work if they seed solidly into the lathe. If the lath seems weak or brittle, go ahead and install an anchor for added insurance. Mount heavier objects directly to a stud or use an appropriate anchor.

You’ll also want some wire, specific hangers or mounts (in our case, for a skateboard and basketball) and a level to ensure everything is straight and plumb when you finally hang it on the wall. Then start hanging, starting with the middle components and working your way out, making sure that the center of your galley wall cluster is at eye level.

Franco’s most encouraging advice: “Don’t be afraid to hang it! If you make a mistake and want to move it, it’s only a hole. Patch the drywall and move on.” Embrace the process, remain flexible, and remember that your gallery wall is a reflection of your unique aesthetic journey.

FAQ

How many pictures should be on a gallery wall?

Use the size of the wall you are hanging your gallery wall on as a guide to the number of pictures it should have. Your gallery wall cluster as a whole shouldn’t exceed 60% of the available wall space not covered by furniture.

When did gallery walls start?

Gallery walls have been around in one shape or another since the 1600’s.

The post A Step-By-Step Guide to Crafting a Stunning Gallery Wall appeared first on Family Handyman.

Inflatables, inflatables, inflatables! Have you noticed how inflatables seem to be a part of holiday decor every season? Big ones, small ones. Halloween, Christmas, cartoon characters, fantastical! They are not cheap, and truth be told, the biggest challenge to having inflatables in your front yard is they are fragile. Some inflatables are even delicate. The question is, after investing in decorative inflatables, how do you take care of them to ensure your investment lasts for more than one season?”

Most inflatable yard decorations are made from durable, waterproof nylon or other synthetic materials so they can resist rain. However, the true secret to having your inflatable around for more than one season is how you take care of it when it is up and how you store it during the off-season.

Here are a few tips to protect your inflatable investment and ensure the fun lasts more than one season.

Before you use your inflatable

• Read the directions and follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for exposure to extreme temperatures and moisture, such as snow, ice or rain.
• Location, location! Choose a flat, clean area far away from Christmas trees and other sharp objects to display your inflatable.
• Check for tears and rips at the start of each new season. Small holes will prevent the inflatable from properly filling, and over time, small holes will become bigger holes.
• Everything has a limit. Follow recommended weight limits, restrictions and recommendations.

When setting up your inflatable

• Always secure inflatables with stakes well seeded into the ground. For added peace of mind, feel free to use additional stakes and a mallet to seed them into the ground and stronger nylon rope.
• Be aware of securing the rope too tightly—the tension may stretch or cause the inflatable to tear. Although inflatables come with a basic set of stakes and nylon twine, you may consider getting more and adding them to your installation.
• Keep your inflatable away from heat. This means open flames, fire pits, heaters and furnaces. Even extended periods of time in the direct sun can do long-term damage to your inflatable. The sun weakens the nylon and vinyl materials, making them more prone to tears and compromising the seams. You can’t fully avoid the sun, but be conscious of the damage it can do.
• Make sure nothing is around the fan that could find its way into the fan housing and prevent the fan from spinning. Check for small sticks and dry leaves. If you can access the inside of the fan housing, it is a good idea to reinforce the seam between the fan and the fabric, as it will see the most strain.
• Inflatables are not meant to be jumped on. To prevent seams from bursting or accidentally deflating your inflatable, avoid applying unnecessary pressure. You’d be surprised how easily parts can come loose or seams can pop. Even a small rip or tear can prevent your inflatable from filling and holding air, which will prevent it from displaying properly.
• Pets are curious creatures, which means it is best to keep them away from your inflatables.

Know when NOT to use your inflatable

• Inflatables are NOT meant to withstand all types of weather exposure. Be sure to put your inflatable away before stormy weather, including high winds, thunderstorms, tornadoes, snow, heavy rain, or hail.
• Inflatables don’t do well in any extreme. Exposure to high temperatures can and will damage an inflatable.

How to store holiday inflatables

• When it is time to store your inflatable with your other holiday decorations at the end of the season, make sure it is clean and fully dry before you store it in the included bag or a plastic storage bin.
• To clean the inflatable, use water, mild soap and 1/2 teaspoon of vinegar. Use an all-purpose cleaning cloth or soft sponge, and make sure the inflatable is clean. Let it air dry thoroughly before storing it. Mildew and mold can easily form if the inflatable is stored while still damp. It is harder to get rid of mold than it is to prevent it. Try to keep the original box with instructions and all moving pieces together. You may also consider a plastic storage bin with a snap-in-place lid to keep it dry and clean during the offseason.

How to repair holiday inflatables

• Some inflatables come with small repair and patch kits for holes and tears in the material. Another option for repairs is flexible tape, such as electric or duct tape—they come in many colors to match the section you are repairing or reinforcing. Whenever possible, attack repairs from the inside out; this will help the repair last longer.
• If the fan or blower stops working, check for sticks or debris in the fan housing that are preventing the blades from spinning. For ultimate safety, make sure the fan is unplugged when troubleshooting issues.
• Make sure your extension cord and outlet are working properly. Use an extension cord protector to protect the plug connection from moisture.

FAQ

Are all inflatables created equally?

No, the quality and durability of inflatables vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some fabrics and materials are more durable than others. Take advantage of inflatables on display and inspect the quality. A thicker material will probably hold up better.

How long do inflatables last?

High-quality inflatables can last five to ten years if taken care of and stored well. The time frame will vary based on the material used to manufacture the inflatable.

Should inflatables be turned off during the day?

The answer is not whether you should have your inflatable on or off during the day. The more important answer is how long to run your fan. Most manufacturers recommend running the fan for eight hours to avoid overheating or short-circuiting your inflatable. Power surges during thunderstorms may also affect how well your inflatable fan runs.

The post Tips and Tricks to Keep Your Holiday Inflatables Looking Festive for Years appeared first on Family Handyman.

For plant enthusiasts, Kokedama offers a creative and visually appealing way to incorporate greenery into your home. Kokedama is a unique houseplant trend that focuses on how you plant and display your leafy companions. Rather than using pots, Kokedama involves wrapping the plant’s root system in a moss-covered soil ball, resulting in a natural and visually striking presentation.

This method allows you to easily add a touch of living, thriving vegetation to any space in an artistic, unconventional manner. Embracing the Kokedama style can be an excellent way to bring more vibrancy and life into your living environment through the display of your beloved houseplants.

What Is a Kokedama?

Kokedama bares its roots in Japan and is a many centuries old garden art.  Most recently, the concept of Kokedama gardening has come into popularity in the west. Known for its beauty,  kokedama literally means “moss ball” in Japanese. It is also known as “Poor Man’s Bonsai” or “String Garden” as most Kokedama gardens seem to float in the air when they are hung with transparent fishing line.

The curious thing about Kokedama is the learning curve lies in making your first one.  Once you figure out the dirt mix and how to form your ball shape, it can become addictive because you want to have more and more. Find the right combination of water and light and you will find successful Kokedamas can live for years. Here are some tips and trick to starting you very own indoor Kokedama garden.

Mix the soil

Mix together one part bonsai soil, one part peat moss, and half part potting soil.

These soil ingredients combine to create good drainage and aeration, which is crucial to prevent root rot, support excellent moisture retention, and allow roots to stay moist between waterings. They are also lightweight and sturdy, which makes them easy to hang.

Add small amounts of water as you go and combine to a thickness where the soil clumps together. You will know your dirt soil mix is to the right consistency when you press it in to your hand and it stays together in a tight shape. Press and form a dirt ball five to six inches in diameter.

Prep the plant

Prep the plant by cleaning off as much of the potting dirt around the roots as possible. Do this over a tray or bucket for easy cleanup. This will allow you to tuck the rootball into the newly formed Kokedama ball.

Plant the kokedama

Lay out a single layer of cheesecloth large enough to cover the entire ball. Transfer the Kokedama ball to the center.

With the Kokedama ball of dirt now over the cheesecloth, use your hands or a small garden shovel to gently excavate a hole large enough to accommodate the roots of your plant (and a few expanded clay pebbles) in the center of the ball. Place your plant and clay pebbles in the hole, and gently pack and compress the dirt around the rootball. Make sure the roots are snug and completely covered by the soil but not so tight that they bulge out the top of the ball of soil.

Wrap the kokedama in cheese cloth

To help maintain the formed Kokedama ball and ensure it stays snug around your plant’s root ball, wrap the ball with the sheet of cheesecloth. Temporarily tie some twine around the top to secure it around the stalk of your plant. You will remove this string later when the moss has been secured around the plant. Do not worry if the shape of your Kokedama balls is not perfect at this stage.

Cover it with moss and twine

With the roots nicely tucked into the Kokedama ball, cover the entire ball with sheets of moss, securing them with jute twine. Jute twine will hold the moss in place and help create the ball shape you desire for your Kokedama.  Feel free to tie knots in the twine as you see fit to draw the ball together in a nice round shape and secure the loose ends before trimming them with shears.

Once the moss has been secured, remove the string you placed around the cheesecloth in the previous step. This will allow the plant to stretch and grow without being restricted.

Pro Tip: Misting the moss with water before you wrap it around the ball of dirt will make it pliable and help it conform to the desired shape.

Hanging kokedama plants (optional)

You can make your Kokedama appear to be floating by hanging it from a ceiling or window using a fishing line. Use twine to tightly knot it and the fishing line together. Experiment with the balance by moving the fishing line or wrapping it around the twine.  Though barely visible, the fishing line does all of the heavy lifting, so ensure that you select a line with a weight rating that is capable of supporting your kokodama following a watering.

Kokedama care

Watering
A with all plants, watering every Kokedama plant will differ.  However, ideally, once or twice a week take your Kokedama down and let it soak in a tray of room temperature water. Water will automatically be drawn up into the Kokedama ball. You may also use a watering can and water from above to make sure the ball is saturated with moisture.

Take the Kokedama ball out of the water and let it drain for about 30 minutes.  To avoid a mess with water dripping all over when you go to hang it back up, make sure the Kokedama is no longer dripping. Plants take in water from their roots and via their leaves.  In between regular watering, make it a habit to mist the leaves of your plant.

Light
Avoid a plant that wants full sunlight as the dirt will probably dry out very quickly and you will have to water more frequently. The best plant candidate for a Kokedama is a plant that enjoys partial to full shade. If you place your Kokedama where sunlight will hit it directly, filter the sunlight through a sheer curtain or shade.

FAQ

How do I hang or display a Kokedama?

Part of the charm to Kokedama plants is the illusion of it seeming to float in the air.  Most hang their Kokedama with fishing line because it is strong and clear which makes it seem to disappear when a few feet away.  Other creative ways of hanging a Kokedama are hanging from the middle of a picture frame or neatly placed onto a stone or wood dish.  The most important thing to keep in mind about where you display your Kokedama is how easy it is to remove and replace it when watering.

What are the best plants for Kokedama?

Choose plants that prefer partial to full shade. My project utilized Elephant Ear (Alocasia Polly), Ponytail Palm (Beaucarnea recurvata), and Ficus Tree Bonsai (Ficus Retusa Bonsai); however, there are a number of other plants that would be suitable, such as Orchids (Phalaenopsis), African violets (Saint Paulia ionantha), Hedera Helix, Spider plants (Chlorophytum comosum), and herbs such as Basil, Thyme, or Mint.

What kind of moss works best for kokedama?

You will find moss sheets sold in two forms. One is alive and shipped damp.  Live moss arrives moist with dirt on the back of it. It comes in sheets, but they fall apart easily.  The second form is dried moss sheets.  They are usually more vibrant in green because they have been dyed. They do not have any dirt attached to them and you will find the green dye is released into the water when watering. Both dried and fresh moss will conform better if misted before use. Try them both before you decide which you prefer. I combined them for some of my Kokedama plants and it worked well.

The post A DIYers Guide to Making Kokedama Masterpieces appeared first on Family Handyman.

Family gatherings, holiday get-togethers, dinner parties for friends… it doesn’t matter the time of year or the event, customizing your dining table can be both a challenge and a lot of fun. Or, better yet, a fun challenge! You want to be creative and unique but not over-the-top kitschy. As far as I am concerned, napkin rings set the stage for any table. As I pondered how to create a one-of-a-kind napkin ring, I settled on copper etching and a patina solution for just the unique touch I desired. Handmade, warm, rustic, and fun to make using pre-cut copper pipe.

Once you gather all the elements required to make this project, it can be done in less than an hour and a half.  The other benefit is that once you figure out how easy it is to do copper etching, you will want to do it repeatedly.  The technique is easily applied and can be incorporated into many shapes and forms. I promise these napkin rings will serve as a wonderful topic of conversation.  Don’t forget to say, “Yes, I made them!”

Prep the copper pipe

To ensure that the napkins fit easily in the DIY napkin rings and to give you enough room to draw the design you desire, use copper pipes with at least 1/2-in. diameter by 2-in. length.

The copper must be free of dirt, oil, and fingerprints before etching.  Oil residue is often left behind on pipes during manufacturing. Even oil on your fingers can compromise the etching process. To ensure your copper is free of oil and fingerprints, wipe it down with alcohol and a cotton rag. Packaged alcohol swabs also work great.

Mask the inside of the copper pipe

To prevent the inside of the copper pipe from being eaten away and weakened by the ferric chloride, you must mask the area with a resist. A resist is a material that resists or seals out the ferric chloride, such as paint, permanent marker or duct tape.

If you choose paint or permanent marker, ensure it is completely dry before exposing it to the ferric chloride. If using duct tape, make sure it adheres well at the edges to prevent the ferric chloride from seeping in underneath. The ferric chloride will attack all parts of the copper that haven’t been protected or sealed. This is the biggest secret to etching—block what you want to keep and expose what you want to be etched.

Draw your design

Draw your design on the copper pipe using a permanent marker.  Your permanent marker’s tip size can either be your friend or your enemy.  I find it easiest to start with the finest tip permanent marker I can find and build up the thickness of the lines. The permanent marker’s ink will protect the areas you wish to highlight, while the ferric chloride will consume the exposed copper, resulting in an embossed/debossed appearance.

If you are uncomfortable with your drawing skills, try using a flexible stamp and permanent ink to lay out your design.

“Float” the copper

Now, it’s time to etch the copper. In order to obtain the best results, it is crucial to suspend the copper napkin rings in the etching solution, as the etching process creates sediment that sinks to the bottom and can affect the project.

The first step in this process is to find a large plastic tub or bucket. This bucket must be large enough to hold all of the copper pieces while they are suspended and deep enough so they can be completely submerged in the solution. Then, use duct tape to span the bucket and thread the copper napkin rings onto it so they will be submerged in the solution but suspended off the bottom.

Don a pair of plastic gloves and safety glasses. In a separate plastic tub, thoroughly mix enough ferric chloride to submerge copper napkin rings and a tablespoon of citric acid. The citric acid will increase the potency of the solution, resulting in less time for it to etch.  Allow the copper to soak in the ferric chloride solution for an hour.

Remove and rinse

After immersing the copper in ferric chloride for one hour, examine the depth of the etching. If you want the etching to be more pronounced or deeper, leave the copper in the solution for a longer period of time. Check back every 30 minutes until you are satisfied.

Once you have achieved the desired etching depth, remove the copper from the ferric chloride solution and rinse it under running water. Be sure to catch the rinsing water in a bucket or tub, as any etching solution that flows down the drain will eat at pipe fittings and drain lines.

Clean and sand

With alcohol, remove the permanent marker from the inside of the copper pipe and on the surface of your design. Lightly sand along your design with fine-grit sandpaper (400-grit or finer) to reveal all of the etching.

Apply the patina

Using a small brush, apply the patina solution and allow it to react with the copper for a few hours. Use the fine-grit sandpaper to sand back the high spots of your design and reveal the highs and lows between the shiny copper and the patina. Feel free to apply multiple layers of patina for a more dramatic effect.

Apply a sealer

Seal the patina and copper with clear spray paint or polyurethane. This will prevent the patina from rubbing off on your napkin during your meal and keep the shiny copper bright instead of dulling as copper oxidizes. However, be aware that the sealer may dull the patina.

FAQ

Does the thickness or gauge of the copper matter when doing copper etching?

Ferric chloride will eat through copper by breaking it down with acidity.  If your copper is too thin, you will lose strength and rigidity and you may end up with small holes in your copper. Always do a test to determine how deep you want your etching to go and how much time it will take to achieve desired etching effect.

Do all patinas react the same on copper?

No, different patinas will elicit different reactions to the copper, which will create different hues and intensities.   Always do a test before applying to the final piece.  Humidity, temperature and many other variables may affect how the patina reacts and what it looks like in the end.

The post These DIY Copper Napkin Rings Are A Perfect Holiday Project appeared first on Family Handyman.

I grew up with parents who love music.  Dancing was a favorite pastime in my household, and my mother still has an extensive album collection to this day.  If you haven’t noticed, those old-school vinyl records are back in vogue. Now that they’re considered cool again, there’s been some huge growth in LP record player sales.  As I looked over my mom’s old albums, I thought it would be cool to figure out a nice way to display them. With that goal in mind, I began to tinker around with how to make a wooden crate with a vinyl record display.

If you’ll allow me to get on my DIY soapbox: I truly believe that once you know how to make a box, you can make a million things. Let’s make it a million and one with this hip and a bit retro wood record crate.

Project Overview

Cutting List

Overall dimensions: 16-1/2″w x 16-1/2″h x 17-1/4″d

Cut the wood

For this project, I found some 5/8-inch thick walnut wood boards at the lumber yard. If you cannot find any similar boards, you may wish to run 3/4-in. boards through a thickness planner or drum sander to get to 5/8-inch, or simply construct the project using 3/4-inch thick material. Keep in mind the latter will alter some dimensions on the cutting list.

Cut wood slats (A, D), trim pieces (B, C), and album ledger (E) out of the walnut lumber using the table saw and miter saw.

Build the front and back panels

Assemble the front and back panels using clamps to hold the five slats (A) tightly together while you nail trim pieces (B) at the top and bottom using wood glue and 18ga. brad nails. The trim pieces are essentially holding the panel together, so make sure both ends of all the slats are flush for a tight seam against the trim pieces.

Repeat this process twice to create two panels: one for the front and another panel for the back of the record crate.

Build the side panels

Mirror the process in step two to create side panels by tightly squeezing six slats (A) and securing them with the side trim pieces (C).

Again, repeat this process twice to create the two side panels.

Run the panels through the drum sander

Run the completed panels through a drum sander to ensure they are flat and the same thickness. I didn’t take much off, maybe 1/32-inch or so. Make sure the last pass on each panel is set at the same thickness. All nails be sunk below the surface of the wood to prevent damaging the sandpaper roll on the drum sander.

Join the panels to create a square

Use 18ga. brad nails and wood glue to join the four sanded panels together to make the sides of the wooden crate. Flush the bottom edges of all four panels as you put them together. The front and back panels will have slats horizontally oriented, and the slats on the side panels will be vertically oriented, making them taller to accommodate space for a handle.

Nail on the bottom

Using wood glue and 18ga. brad nails, install the bottom slats (D) one at a time on the inside along the bottom edge of the crate. Use clamps to help squeeze the slats tightly together as you go.

Rout the handles

Route a handle opening on each of the vertically oriented side panels using a router with a pattern bit (a straight-cut bit with a top bearing) and an acrylic template.

Position the handle placement centered on the acrylic on the panel with the top of your handle 1-1/2-inches down from the top edge. Use a pencil to trace the outline of the handle in the desired position before you start routing.  If the template moves while using the router, you can put it back in the exact location. Always use clamps to secure the acrylic template while working with the router. Three points of contact with the clamps will ensure the acrylic template stays put with the router’s vibrations.

Introduce the router bit to the wood through a pre-drilled 5/8-in. hole in the center of the template opening. Slide the bit through the hole and set its depth to ensure the bearing will ride along the template without the cutting blade damaging the template and the cutting edge. It is crucial for safety that the router bit is not in contact with wood when turning the tool on.

After the handle material has been removed, go back and soften the edges using a 1/4-in. round-over bit followed by some 220-grit sandpaper.

Install album ledger

Install the album ledger (E) at the bottom of the front panel with wood glue and 18ga. brad nails. Its purpose is to catch and hold the album when you slide it in behind the vinyl record display plexiglass.

Cut and drill the plexiglass

Cut the plexiglass (F) to the exact outer width of the front panel and the height from the top of the ledger (E) to the top edge of the front panel.  Cut it to size on the table saw.

Once it is cut, lay the plexiglass on the front panel and determine where the stand-offs will be positioned.  Place the bottom stand-offs one inch up from the bottom of the crate and 3/8 inches in towards the center.

Place the top stand-offs one inch down from the top of the front panels and 3/8 inches in toward the center of the crate. Make sure the screw for the stand-off will go into the side panel and not protrude out the back of the front panel.

To ensure the exact placement of the stand-offs through the plexiglass and into the wood, pre-drill holes in both materials at the same time. Use a small 1/8-inch tapered or plastic drill bit to pierce both. Then, using a 5/16-in. tapered or plastic drill bit, enlarge those pre-drilled holes in the plexiglass to accommodate the top portion of the stand-off.

Fill and oil

Touch up all the nail holes and imperfect seams with wood filler. Allow it to dry, and sand it back with 320-grit paper.

Apply two coats of walnut oil to the entire record crate, rubbing each coat with a cotton rag. Allow the oil to soak in overnight. Sand back any raised grain or fuzz from the rag with 320-grit sandpaper and repeat the process, applying two more coats.

Install the stand-offs and acrylic glass

Unscrew the top portion of the stand-offs and set them aside with their plastic gaskets. Secure the bottom portion of the stand-offs by screwing them into the wood at the previously pre-drilled locations.

Position the plexiglass over the holes of stand-offs. Place plastic gasket under and above the plexiglass – sandwiching the plexiglass between the gaskets and the metal pieces of the stand-offs. Thread the upper portion of the stand-off through the holes in the plexiglass and secure it to the bottom portion.

Install rubber feet

Install rubber feet or cabinet bumpers on the underside of the record crate so it won’t slide or scratch any surfaces it is set on.

FAQ

What is the difference between acrylic glass and plexiglass?

Acrylic glass and plexiglass are one in the same— two names for the same material, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA). Think of it this way:  Plexiglass is a trademarked name, just like Kleenex is to tissue.  PMMA is a synthetic resin known for being transparent, lightweight, and durable. Often used as an alternative to glass for lower costs and higher durability. Acrylic Glass is different than polycarbonate.

Does storing records flat-warp them?

The uneven distribution of the weight of the records can cause them to warp. In addition to causing them to warp, flat-storing your records also makes it more difficult to find and access the records you wish to listen to.

The post Show Off Your Records with This DIY Wooden Crate Display appeared first on Family Handyman.

Circles are difficult to create. Whether you draw them by hand or try to achieve that perfect circle with a tool, they are not always easy, especially when it comes to wood. I tell all my clients that curves and circles always cost more—time and money—until your world opens up to a router circle jig, also known as a trammel arm.

A router circle jig basically sets the center point and allows you to make a circle with whatever you put at the other end of it, sort of like a compass. A pencil, a jigsaw, a router can all work well to make a circle with a trammel arm jig.  I used to dread making circles until I found out I could attach my wood router to a jig. Let me make your woodworking life easier and certainly much more pleasant by sharing the steps to making this simple woodworking jig.  You may not need it often, but when you do, you will be happy to know how to make it!

Remove the router base plate

Unscrew the plastic base plate (also called a shoe, running plate, or sub-base) to remove it from the wood router.

Rip the plywood

Rip a long strip of plywood the same width as the baseplate. Then use the router base plate as a template to lay out the bit location and screw placement on one end of the plywood strip.

Determine length

Decide how long you want to make your jig. This is the step that takes a little thought and foresight. A 24-in. jig can rout a 48-in. diameter circle and any diameter smaller by moving the pivot location. Make your jig length half of the largest diameter circle you envision yourself cutting plus three inches measured from the center of the bit location mark to the far end.

Cut the jig shape

If your base plate has a radius, cutting out the shape with a band saw or a jigsaw is a nice touch, though not required. I suggest tapering the length of the jig slightly, as it seems to make it easier to maneuver and reduces the area where sawdust can build up under it. It doesn’t have to be much, just an inch or so along each side from the base plate to the far end.

Drill all the holes

Drill the holes for the four router screws. Mark the hole placement with a nail set for the exact location. With a counter sink bit, drill the holes from the bottom side of the jig, ensuring they are drilled deep enough so that the screw head is countersunk below the surface of the plywood.

On the opposite end of the jig, still on the bottom side and 1-1/2-in. from the end, drill a 1/4-in. hole to accommodate your 1/4- 20 x 1-in. bolt for the knob.  With the 1/4-in. hole drilled, use a 5/8-in. bit to drill part way through the plywood to counter-sink the head of the bolt below the plywood surface.

Finally, drill out the bit location hole to match the hole in the router base plate. This hole diameter can change depending on the router you have. I used a 1-3/8-in. Forstner bit to drill the hole marked from my router base. This hole allows the router bit to come through once the router is secured to the jig. 

Soften the edges

Using a random orbital sander, sand back any kerf marks and tearout along the jig’s edge made while drilling and cutting. Then, round over all of the edges, both top and bottom of the jig, using a round-over bit with a bearing installed in your router.

Wax the circle cutting jig

Use furniture wax to lubricate the bottom side of the plywood jig. This promotes a smooth glide as it rides along the work surface when routing your circles.

Assemble the circle cutting jig

Set the router base plate aside in a safe location. Attach the router to the jig via the base plate screw holes. You may have to purchase longer screws depending on how thick the plywood is that you used for your jig. Attach the knob via the 1/4-in. bolt hole to the other end of the jig. Ensure the screw and bolt heads are tightened so that they are below the surface of the jig as not to scratch your projects as you rout.

How to cut circles with a router circle jig

You are now ready to cut a circle using your jig. Here is how to proceed:

1. Determine the radius and center point of the circle you would like to cut on your workpiece.
2. Insert a straight-cut bit into the router.
3. Measure the distance between the innermost part of the straight-cut router bit up the length of the jig, the same distance as the radius of your circle, and mark the position.
4. Drill a hole in the jig at the mark and insert a nail or screw that is the same diameter as the hole. Your jig’s pivot point has now been established.
5. Nail or screw the pivot point fastener into the circle centerpoint on your workpiece.
6. If possible, start and adjust the router in a location away from the workpiece. Use the depth adjustment on the router to lower the bit and make passes of 1/8-to 1/4-in. at a time. Change the bit’s depth with every pass until your circle is routed.If the layout of your circle will not allow you to start and adjust the router in a location where it is not touching the workpiece, you’ll need to do a plunge cut. Plunge cuts are where you start the tool and introduce the spinning bit to the workpiece by plunging it in. To avoid damaging the workpiece or creating a potentially dangerous situation, the router should be started with the bit clear of the material.

How to cut an arch with a router circle jig

A circle-cutting jig can also be useful when cutting arches. Arches are cut in the same manner as circles, with the exception of where the router bit lands during the process of cutting. When cutting circles, you should place the router bit groove around the outer edge of the circle. An arch, however, should have the groove inside of it. That said, when routing an arch, instead of measuring the distance between the innermost point of your router bit and the pivot point, measure from the outermost point of the bit to ensure it lands inside the arch.

FAQ

How big can I make a circle with a Router Circle jig?

A circle cut using a router jig can be as big as you make the jig. You will need to ensure you can run the length freely. I have seen eight-foot circle cutting jigs to make huge circles.

Can I make a Router Circle jig out of something other than wood?

Yes! Many make their router jigs out of acrylic or polycarbonate. The longer you get with acrylic or polycarbonate, the thicker you will want your materials to avoid it from sagging or snapping in half.

The post Cut Perfect Circles Every Time With This Easy DIY Router Circle Jig appeared first on Family Handyman.

The first thing to do when planning any garden or landscape feature is to ask yourself what you want out of it. Are you trying to attract birds? Add color or fragrance to the area? Or cover up some unsightly porch or deck footings? For our project, our goal was to create low-maintenance front yard landscaping that would freshen up our space and boost the curb appeal of our home.

I want to be very clear: “low maintenance landscape” does not mean NO maintenance. A flower bed or landscape feature in your yard is a living thing that will require some attention. As much as we wish “low maintenance” meant “put it in the ground and you’re done,” that is not the case. At a minimum, you must water and pay attention to how your garden grows. Plants are just like people: some are high maintenance, and some are low maintenance. Do a little homework so you can make your choice wisely, and the whole flower garden season will be easier in the end.

I was very fortunate to have Melinda Myers, a highly regarded landscape designer, on this project. I gained a ton of knowledge and am happy to share some of her insight.

Choose plants for garden

Once you know what you want from your garden, it’s time to determine the plants that will get you there. Myers recommends first visiting your local garden center and reading the plant tags.

“Plant tags are excellent,” she says. “They give you the growing conditions and the size of the plant. Some nurseries are now sharing more information on their website, where you can learn so much more than just the hardiness zone. Will it flower? Is it going to provide interest for songbirds and butterflies? Will it match the color you are looking for?”

Sketch out a plot map that includes the anchor plants you want to plant to get an idea of how the garden will come together. Consider the size of the plants now and how big they will grow. Myers always plans to “use smaller complementary plants and annuals for quick fill until plants grow into the space, so it looks like your garden has been there for a while.”

Establish the physical garden

Define a specific line where you plan to plant your flower bed. If it isn’t defined by hardscapes, such as a sidewalk entrance or front porch, you will want to edge the flower bed to contain the dirt and mulch once it is all done. For visual confirmation, before you start digging up your yard, lay out your flowerbed section with colored landscape marking spray paint.

Where hardscape doesn’t exist, use a lawn edger or shovel to cut into the grass or dirt along your spray paint line to create your garden boundaries. It helps to rock the edger or shovel back and forth to make ample room if you plan to install a physical metal or plastic garden edging to fit into.

Remove sod, weeds and roots

Once the flower garden has been defined, start the process of preparing the dirt by clearing away grass/sod, weeds, pebbles and rocks from the planned section. You may want to rent a garden tiller to help with hard-to-remove grassroots. Turn over the dirt and then return with a rake to gather and remove loose roots and weeds. Knee pads will make this process much more comfortable.

Once the weeds, roots and small stones have been removed, if you think you have low-quality dirt, you will want to help your soon-to-be-planted plants by nourishing your dirt with equal parts of compost and topsoil. Use the tiller to help combine the compost and topsoil with the existing dirt. For good water drainage, you want your dirt mix to be fluffy and light, not compact and tight.

Layout plants

Before committing to plant placement and getting a feel for spacing before you put them in the ground, take the time to set plants with their plastic pots where you envision them on top of the ground. This will allow you to move things, step back, take a look and ultimately be sure of where you want the plants to live and thrive. Always consider the trajectory of sunlight and color flow in flowers and leaves.

When playing with placement, keep in mind the potential growth size of each plant and allow them room to grow. For visual interest, avoid the same color or plant right next to each other unless you want to make a specific statement, such as a straight line of lavender. The more thought and purpose you dedicate to this step, the more successful your garden will be.

For example, in our flower bed, we placed the Korea Spice Viburnum along the wall, leaving growing room behind it against the wall of the house. It was the biggest plant we had and had the potential to get bigger, so we left room for growth all the way around it. The Fire Light Tidbit hydrangea will get bigger every season, yet it starts out each season low, allowing for the plants behind it to be seen. The Purple Monet was placed toward the front because these plants are starting to grow smaller, which will also give us the effect of color contrast.

Then, we planted annuals to fill in the space with petunias in full color. These annuals won’t come back next year, but our other plants will take over that space as they grow.

Plant

When planting into the ground, make digging the holes easier by using a garden auger attachment with a drill. Be sure to read the tag on the plant for exact depth and separation from other plants. Plants will always do better if the hole is dug deep enough to fully cover the rootball with dirt. Use the pot the plant came in as a depth gauge and go a few inches deeper to allow the roots to expand and settle.

Again, read the tag and take into consider the plant’s full potential to grow and leave that amount of space around it. Remember, plants take time to reach a point where you will be really happy with them. Allow for room and be willing to transplant the plant if needed.

Lay in landscape mulch

To give your flower bed a finished and clean look, use a two-to-three-inch layer of organic mulch under and around the plants. Use a composting material such as cardboard or newspaper under the mulch to keep the mulch layer intact for a longer period of time. Mulch will also help maintain moisture around your plants for a longer period of time, making the need for watering less frequent.

Water regularly

Establishing your plants properly starts with ensuring they are watered correctly. Follow the watering instructions provided on the plant tags. However, be prepared to adjust your watering schedule as needed to account for changes in weather conditions. The general rule is to avoid letting the soil become too dry or overly saturated. Pay close attention to your plant’s leaves – if they start to change color or droop, that’s a sign they aren’t happy with the current watering situation. Remember, plants will communicate with you if something is amiss.

As Myers shared, “There are no failures in gardening. If a plant isn’t doing well, move it to a better place or give it to a neighbor. The most important thing is to have fun!” The key is being responsive to your plants’ needs and adapting your approach as necessary to help them thrive.

FAQ

How do I know if I need to add compost or topsoil to my flower bed?

If the dirt in your flower bed or garden is clay-heavy or too thick, it will easily clump into a ball when you bunch it up in your fist. On the other hand, if your dirt has a high composition of sand, it won’t hold moisture. You want your dirt to be fluffy when you rake it. Lay out topsoil and compost bags side by side, slice them open and mix it into the existing dirt. It should have a nice rich dirt color, not too muddy and not too grainy.

How do I dispose of extra bad dirt from my yard landscape project?

Excess bad dirt, roots, and weeds are inevitable when tackling any exterior landscape project. What do you do with it? Most community or county dump yards do not accept dirt, and most dumpster bins do not want dirt dumped in them. Furthermore, if you have rented one, the company may charge you more money if they find dirt in it.

If there is a reasonable amount of excess garden dirt, weeds and roots, you may consider starting a composting pile in your yard. Eventually, you can make this dirt good dirt. If there is a lot of excess, you can post it on a local community website or app for free dirt fill. Someone may come and get it. You may be surprised; someone may want it. One man’s garden excess may be another’s desire – especially if it is free. As a last resort, pay attention to construction sites in your area and consider calling them and asking if you can dump the dirt in their soon-to-be-cleared-out lot.

Should you put landscape fabric under mulch?

“Landscape fabric belongs under stone so the stone doesn’t disappear into the ground,” says Myers. “If you want to keep weeds out of your garden, use cardboard or newspaper as a layer under your organic mulch. Over time, these layers will break down and compost to improve your dirt.”
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The post How To Create a Low-Maintenance Front Yard Landscaping Feature appeared first on Family Handyman.

One of the most satisfying things I have learned is how to refinish wood furniture. I can’t begin to tell you how many pieces of furniture that were once someone else’s garbage have landed in my hands. With the right attention, approach and dedication, another man’s garbage can become your treasure.

The hardest part about restoring a piece of wood furniture is developing the patience to see all the steps through.  This is one DIY project you don’t want to rush, and it is highly unlikely you will get it done in one afternoon. Restoring old furniture is hardly ever straight forward, and a technique that worked for one piece might not work for another.  The trick is to know your options and then have enough knowledge to do the detective work and make an effective plan.

The steps are basic and easy.  Be patient and thorough, and people will think your refinished wood furniture is new!

Assess the condition

Take a good look at your piece of wood furniture from as many angles as possible. Use painter’s tape to pinpoint areas that will need extra attention, such as putty build-up or deep dings that will require extra sanding to even out. It is easy to overlook areas when the dust starts flying. Then, you will need to answer some questions to determine how you go about refinishing your piece of furniture:

Is the piece made out of solid wood, laminate, or veneered plywood?

A solid wood piece of furniture is one of the most forgiving and most suitable candidates for refinishing. With veneered plywood furniture, you need to be cautious when sanding, not to sand through the wood veneer. Laminate furniture is the worst candidate for refinishing because the plastic laminate won’t take sanding, stain, or paint well.

Are the joints solid, or do they need reinforcement?

If nails or screws are loose, secure them so no further damage is done while you are refinishing it. You want to work on a solid piece and avoid having a leg fall off while you are sanding. If it requires gluing, use clamps to get a tight fit and a paintbrush or screwdriver to push it down into any deep voids.

Is there a stain under the topcoat that you may have to match?

If you have stained wood under a topcoat or sealer, you will have difficulty doing a perfect color match. Stain and sealer colors change with age, making them yellow or even deepen in tone.  Therefore, it is very difficult to get an exact match. This would be the time to consider painting the furniture a solid paint color. If you choose to paint it a solid paint color, you may use all the following steps, but add a good coat of primer before proceeding with paint instead of clear sealer.

Is the current finish water-based or oil-based?

This is the most important piece of detective work you must uncover.  If the finish has a yellowing appearance, it is probably an oil-based finish. Also, if a piece of wood furniture was made before the 1980s, it is even more likely to be oil-based, as water-based clear sealers didn’t take off until then. The importance of this question lies in what paint, stain, or finish you plan to refinish it with. Water-based finishes can only go over water-based finishes, but oil-based finishes can cover everything.

Clean the surface

Remove all of the hardware and clean the surface using a solution made up of three parts water and one part vinegar. This will help break down grease and grime. Be sure not to use a heavily saturated wet rag; you want to wipe off the dirt and grime and not leave a lot of excess moisture on the wood. Allow it to dry well before moving on.

Focus on the extra attention areas

Start with deeper dings and scuffs and sand them smooth with 180-grit sandpaper. The goal is to sand back and even out chipped areas to achieve a smooth, even-looking surface.

Fill large dings and holes

If you have deep dents, dings, holes, or voids that can’t easily be sanded back (or are through the veneer on plywood pieces), fill these areas with wood putty.

Color match the putty to the species of wood you are refinishing. Pine, walnut and oak colors are available on the shelves at large home centers. Most experienced refinishers mix colors of putty to achieve the tone they desire. You won’t know the exact color until it’s dry, so give yourself the time to do a test sample when the color matches.

Once you have the color ready, build it up so there is excess putty in the ding. Putty often shrinks as it dries. Allow it to dry, and sand it back to create an even surface.

Add teeth to the surface

Use 220-grit sandpaper to lightly scuff the entire surface of your furniture.  Sand the flat parts of the furniture with the flat side of a scrap block of wood wrapped in sandpaper, and go over any profiles with a rubber profile sanding block or sanding sponge.

The purpose of this step is to ensure your new finish has what is called “teeth.” This is the place where the new finish can bond with, hang on to, and blend with your old finish. Without adding “teeth” to the surface, the new finish may peel over time. The goal is not to remove the entire finish, so use a light touch when sanding.

Remove the dust

Before applying the first coat of finish, you will want to remove all dust from the surface. Start with an air nozzle attached to an air compressor to get the bulk of the dust off the surface. Then, to remove the fine particles, use a tack cloth.  Tack cloths can be found in the paint department at hardware stores or home centers.

Apply new finish

Apply the new finish with a quality brush.  You will be applying at least two to three coats.  Allow each coat to dry completely before moving on to the next. Between the first and second coats, sand the entire surface with 320-grit sandpaper, concentrating on any raised grain. After the second coat, use 000 steel wool in between additional coats of sealer.

Before applying each coat of finish, make sure the furniture piece is dust-free at every stage. Don’t be surprised if you want to add a fourth or fifth coat of finish before it looks and feels good. A build-up of oil-based finish will also help conceal some of the areas you had to sand deeper.

Install new hardware

To complete a full makeover on a wood refinishing project, install new cabinet hardware, including knobs, handles, pulls, or hinges.

FAQ

Can you refinish furniture without stripping or sanding?

You can absolutely refinish furniture without stripping it.  You will always have to do some bit of sanding when refinishing furniture.

What’s the difference between stripping and sanding wood furniture?

Stripping removes all finishes, leaving the wood in close to a natural state where pores and grain are no longer clogged with a sealer. You will be able to apply a new stain color if you strip the wood. Sanding will most likely leave sealer or paint in the pores or grain or the wood, meaning you will build up on the finish that is already there. You wont’ have a successful new stain application if some of the sealer is left behind.

Is it better to sand or strip wood furniture?

The decision to sand or strip wood furniture is determined by the condition of the wood and what you wish the finish to be. If you wish to restain it a different color all together, then you must strip it. If you wish to revive the surface and it doesn’t have a previous stain under the sealer, then you can sand a reapply a sealer.

What kind of furniture cannot be refinished?

A plastic or manmade laminate will not be a good candidate for refinishing because the sealer or paints floats on the surface as opposed to penetrating into the wood.  Making it easily scratched and chipped.

Is it cheaper to refinish or replace wood furniture?

It is less expensive to refinish wood furniture than to replace it.

The post How To Refinish Wood Furniture appeared first on Family Handyman.

Most people think of a lazy Susan as a simple round circle spinning on a table.  However, in my mind, the form a lazy Susan takes can truly be up to its creator. I decided to make a DIY lazy Susan and take the concept to a whole new level by making it a charcuterie board.  These days, it seems like everyone is caught up in a charcuterie craze. Charcuterie boards are being served up everywhere. Restaurants, parties, events… all seem to offer a combination of fruits, nuts, cheese, crackers and cured meats served on a wooden serving board. However, I have yet to see a spinning Lazy Susan Charcuterie board.

The way I approached the steps makes this project almost DIY fail-proof. First, you will see how easily the charcuterie board-style tray takes shape with the help of an acrylic router template. Then, I will share the secret to installing a Lazy Susan Mechanism, and I am certain you will be amazed at how easy it is. Get the nuts, fruit and cured meats ready while we DIY our way to presentation, presentation, presentation!

Set up the router template

Cut the wood slightly larger than the acrylic router template, which at its widest point is roughly 12-inch x 8-inch.

Place the acrylic router template on the piece of wood and position it where you like it. Use a pencil to outline the template so you have an established starting position. Secure the wood and router template to your worktable with clamps so it doesn’t shift while routing.

Bore out the pocket sections

Before you can run the bearing along the template, you must clean out the wood in each section of the tray. Do this in increments, with the router set to a depth where the router bearing can ride along the template.

Use a straight-cut router bit to bore out the pocket sections of your tray. Introduce the moving router bit with a plunge cut. Keep the router’s shoe flat to the template and avoid tipping it. Straight-cut router bits do not have a bearing to guide them, so it’s extremely important to be very cautious about damaging the acrylic template by getting too close to the router bit while boring out the center.

Try to get as close as possible to the edge of the template without nicking it. This will be the biggest challenge to this whole project. This step is only meant to crudely remove the bulk of the material before you refine the shape of the lazy Susan later on with the acrylic template and bearing bit.

Rout the pocket sections

With the bulk of the wood removed from the center of each section, you will now change to the bowl bit with the bearing to finalize the pattern using the template.

Whenever working with a router bit with a bearing and a template, set the depth of the router bit so the bearing rides along the profile of the template. Test the depth on a scrap of wood first. At all costs, prevent the router shoe plate from dipping into the center of the pockets, as this will create dings in your wood — which will later need to be evened out.

Rout the outside profile

With the inner tray sections routed, you will now work on the outer edge of the tray along the acrylic template. If excess wood is removed as close to the edge of the acrylic template as possible, routing the outer edge will be much easier. That said, trim outside the template with a band saw or jigsaw to save you time and effort.

Starting from the top face of the tray and using the pattern bit with a bearing at the top, rout the outer edge of the template, running the bearing along the outside edge of the acrylic template. Adjust the placement of the clamps so you don’t run into them as you work your way around the piece.

When the outside top edge has been routed, switch to a flush trim bit with a bearing on the bottom. Secure the tray face down and follow the profile you made when routing from the top.

Round over the edges

With a 1/4-in. round-over bit, round over all the edges along the top and bottom of the tray’s outer profile. When rounding over the top, be sure to keep the router base plate riding flat along the top of the section divider wall, without letting it dip into the sections.

Clean up the pocket sections

Use a rotary tool with a carving bit to clean up any uneven spots left behind by the router on the top edge and bottom of the interior sections. The goal is to create a consistent texture, even out bumps and divots in the bottom of each section, carve off burn marks from interior walls, and produce a hand-carved feel.

Sand everything

Sand everything by hand—top and bottom, as well as inside each section. Start with 150 grit, then 220 and 320 to ensure a smooth surface throughout the whole tray. Sanding by hand will prevent over-sanding an edge, making it uneven or drastically changing the shape. This is also your opportunity to eliminate any other tool marks that you may come across.

Oil the tray

Using food-safe walnut oil to condition the wood, apply several coats to finish the tray. Lightly sand with 320-grit sandpaper between coats of oil to get a really smooth finish.

Cut the base of the lazy Susan

Cut the base of the lazy one inch larger than your lazy Susan mechanism. For a 4-inch x 4-inch mechanism, cut your wood 5-inch x 5-inch. Cut 45-degree angles one inch in at all four corners. Be sure the dimensions of your base will not be visible under the top tray when it spins. This is particularly important when dealing with rectangles where one end is longer than the other.

Layout lazy Susan hardware screws

Find the center on the base piece of your lazy susan and mark the placement where the screws will be secured.  The easiest way to find the center is to draw an “X” from the midpoint of your 45-degree angle cut to the midpoint of the 45-degree angle cut on the opposite corner. Place the screw holes to line up with the “X” line. Mark the screw holes with a pencil. Then remove the mechanism and use a nail set to create a starting point for your screws to be installed and not lose position.

Mark and drill access hole

On the base, spin the mechanism a quarter turn to access the screw holes on the lazy Susan’s upper plate. Mark the location where one of these upper plate screw holes lines up on the base. Drill a single 3/8-in. hole at this mark to access the upper plate screws when you join the tray to the base of the lazy Susan.

Assemble the lazy Susan

Apply a coat of walnut oil to both wood pieces with a clean shop rag. Make sure the coat is thorough around the marked screw locations on the base and tray.

Center and mark the placement for the location of the upper plate screws on the bottom of the tray. With both the base and the top marked for screw placement, start with securing the base to the lower plate of the lazy Susan mechanism using 1/2-in. screws.

Then, place the tray face down and position the wood base with the lazy Susan mechanism centered on the bottom of the tray. Secure 1/2-screws into their marked locations with a hand screwdriver through the 3/8-in. access hole. Ensure screws are well-seeded and do not pierce all through the wood and into the routed sections of the tray. Work your way around the base, spinning the base to find each screw placement through the access hole.

Install the knobs (optional)

To install knobs on each end of the tray, cut off the head of the screw provided with the knobs. Determine the center position on the edge, and drill a hole slightly larger than the screw thickness. Using CA glue, fill the pre-drilled hole and insert the screw so the end you didn’t cut is sticking out of the side. Wait a few minutes for the glue to cure, and screw the knob on until it is flush with the wood.

Apply one last coat of walnut oil

Once everything is assembled, apply one last coat of oil. Allow the oil to penetrate for 12 – 24 hours before using the lazy Susan.

FAQ

Why is it called a lazy Susan?

It is unclear why the lazy Susan is called that. Some rumors suggest that Thomas Jefferson invented it for his daughter, Susan, who often complained that she was always the last to be served at dinner. Another is that Susan was the generic name by which wealthy property owners addressed their maids in the 1700s.

What makes a sealer/oil food safe?

Volatile organic compounds make some finishes unsafe for food handling. Especially, if those sealers have not fully cured before being used with food. If a cutting board or other project smells like varnish or some other kind of chemical, you can be sure it is not food safe. To double-guarantee your finish is food safe, purchase a product that is specifically designed for food handling.

The post How To Make a DIY Lazy Susan appeared first on Family Handyman.

Every house has numbers so people and the post can find you.  Have you noticed how many people DON’T give their house numbers a DIY creative consideration?  Most are satisfied with the numbers the house had from the minute they walked in.  For this project, I pondered how a set of numbers on the front of your home can set the stage for what lies beyond the door.  From a technical perspective, I designed this project so all of you can say, “I can do that!”  Still, from a design perspective, I want the modern house numbers to boost the curb appeal and speak to the people walking up the door for the first time with a “wow,” all while giving it a cool, modern vibe.

Where To Put House Numbers

Your house number should be displayed at eye level or higher in a location where they are easily visible from the road and free of obstructions, such as tree branches. It is recommended that you use contrasting colors or place them near a well-lit area so they are easily visible in low light conditions. Use bigger numbers the further away your home is from the road.

Project Overview

Cutting List

Overall dimensions: 41-1/2″H x 7-1/2″W x 8-1/4″D

Stain the trim

Stain the trim pieces for the panel and flower box (D, E, F, and G) in a contrasting darker color.

Set the stained pieces aside and allow them to dry while you proceed to the next step. Touch up any exposed ends after the number panel is put together and framed.

To avoid staining the natural-colored wood pieces (A, B, and C) with your fingerprints while you put the piece together, you MUST ensure the dark wood stain is dry before you start to handle it. Also, using oil-based stain will give your wood even more longevity when exposed to the elements.

Determine the panel size

Our address has four numbers, but yours may be different. Adjust the panel size accordingly by laying out the numbers on a scrap piece of wood or cardboard. Think about the additional panel space you will want above, below, and on the sides of the numbers. Consider the 5-1/2-in. flower box and the plants that will need room to grow into the layout. When you have determined the size of your main panel (A) cut it.

Use the manufacturer’s template to align and drill the holes for the house number standoffs in the cut panel (A). Each number may have a different width dimension but are usually all the same height.

For vertical placement, find the center of the board, determine where you want the numbers to start and work your way down, laying out the numbers and drilling the screw holes. ALWAYS test fit your numbers before drilling holes.  It is much easier to adjust the placement before drilling than to have to hide and repair a misplaced screw hole. Just drill the holes for your numbers in this step. We’ll attach them later.

Build the flower box

Use wood glue and brad nails to assemble the three-sided flower box out of the flower box sides (B) and flower box bottom (C).

Drill drain hole

Drill a 1/2-in. hole in the center of the flower box bottom (C) to allow for water drainage once the plants are in. This will prevent the wood and roots of the plants from rotting.

Attach the flower box to the main panel

From the back of the main panel (A) attach the flower box with wood glue, brad nails, and 1-1/2-in. screws.  Pre-drill and countersink the holes so the back of the main panel (A) can sit flush when installed.  Be sure to use screws instead of just nails to give the box ample strength to support the plant and dirt.

Trim out the panel

Trim out the main panel (A) by nailing on the panel side trim (D) and panel top/bottom trim (E). Nail the panel trim pieces so that the back edge is flush to the back edge of the main panel (A). This will leave a 3/4-in. overhang around the numbers, making it look like a shadow box, and will allow you to hang the whole unit flush on the wall.

When the panel trim is attached, glue and nail on the side trim (F) and face trim (G) of the flower box.

Seal the project

Apply at least two coats of spar varnish to every side of the entire unit, including the back of the main panel and the inside of the flower box.

Attach the house numbers

Attach the house numbers by screwing them onto the main panel (A) from the backside. Use a mallet to ensure the numbers are fully seated on the panel. Countersink all the screw heads so that the back of the panel remains flat.

Attach the aluminum cleat on panel

To hang this project, we used aluminum French cleat picture hangers, also known as z-clips. Z-clips are designed to marry into each other. Place one with the lip down on the back panel of your house number panel and one with the lip up at the location on your home where you’d like the panel to hang.

To balance the weight of the panel and flower box, we attached the panel side of the cleat three inches down from the top of the main panel (A) using 1/2-in. screws. Use a Speed square to make sure it is attached square on the panel.

Attach the aluminum cleat on house

Slide the loose house-side z-clip so that it marries with the attached z-clip on the back of the house numbers panel and get a measurement from the top of the house numbers panel to the bottom of the loose z-clip. Ours was 6-7/8-in. inches: 3-3/4-in. (the gap above the panel-side z-clip w/ top trim) + 3-1/8-in. (the combined height of the married z-clips).

Then, determine the desired location and height on your house. Install the z-clip on your house centered behind the location of your panel, with the lip facing up and the bottom of the z-clip 6-7/8-in. (or whatever your measurement from above comes out to) lower than the desired height. Use a level to ensure the panel will hang level.

If you install it directly into wood, secure it with screws. If you are installing into a hollow wall, brick, or stone, use the appropriate anchor to secure the cleat with screws.

Once the cleat system has been secured, do a test hanging of the panel before you fill the flower box with dirt and plants.  Maneuvering the whole numbers panel unit when empty will be much easier and lighter.  Once you’re satisfied with the placement, move on to planting.

Prep flower box

To protect the flower box wood from too much exposure to moisture, line it with a plastic liner made out of a sandwich bag or plastic sheeting. Be sure to poke a hole through the plastic to expose the drainage hole. Then, line the flower box with a small piece of landscape fabric over the plastic liner. Leave the weed barrier intact over the drain hole. Water will drain, and dirt will stay in the flower box. 

Plant flower box

Once you are satisfied with the placement of the panel and flower box, add potting soil and plants. Plant it hanging or on the ground, whichever feels easiest for you. The panel will gain considerable weight once dirt and plants are in place. You may also consider simply dropping in the plant already in its plastic pot. However, still line it with plastic and place some landscape fabric to further protect the wood and the plant.

FAQ

Do house numbers come in different styles and sizes?

House numbers can be purchased in various styles and finishes. House numbers may also be purchased so they sit flush or raised on standoffs.  You may also find house numbers with built-in solar lighting, making numbers seen at night.

How do I install house numbers on siding?

Under the siding, your house still has a façade that has been covered over.  To secure numbers over siding. Decide placement and drill through the siding to determine if you have wood or brick to screw into to and proceed according to the material.  The big key is sealing around the screw you install for the house numbers.  Use a dab of caulk in the color of your siding around the screw holes to prevent moisture from penetrating through the holes.  Consider using numbers on stand-offs if your siding is on different levels where flush numbers may be challenging.

The post How to Install Modern House Numbers for Curb Appeal Flair appeared first on Family Handyman.

A very easy way to define a flower bed or a walkway is with landscape edging.  Edging comes in many materials, including plastic, wood and my personal favorite- metal.

Besides helping to define a garden’s edge and keeping things such as dirt, mulch or stones in place, metal edging has many upsides. It is easy to calculate, and the actual material is flexible, which means it takes curves easily. It is also relatively easy to cut with a cut-off wheel and angle grinder and comes in a few different colors to choose from.

Installing metal edging is an easy project with the physical demand of being on your hands and knees for the duration.  With all landscaping projects remember, slow and steady wins the race.  Wear kneepads, pace yourself, plan for more time than you anticipate and drink lots of fluids as you go.  Happy gardening!

Lay out the area

Before cutting your lawn, you will want a visual reference to ensure placement. Define a specific line where you plan to install your metal edging by spraying with a colored landscape marking spray paint. This spray paint is designed for use in an inverted position for marking construction and landscape projects. It works great on exterior surfaces such as concrete, blacktop, gravel, soil and grass.

Cut the sod

Using a lawn edger or square shovel, cut into the grass following your spray paint line to cut into the grass or dirt where the metal edging will be installed. It helps to swivel or rock the edger or shovel back and forth to make room for the metal edging to fit in.

Remove sod, weeds and roots

Before installing the Metal Edging, clear away any grass/sod, pebbles and rocks from the planned garden section or walkway. You may want to rent a small garden tiller to help with hard-to-remove roots.

Mix in compost and/or topsoil

Mix in compost or topsoil before installing the metal edging to the new flower bed area. I find it easiest to lay out all the bags and cut them open in place. Then, come back through with a shovel or rake and turn over the dirt.

Stake the edging into place

Before placing the metal edging in the ground, clip off the attached stakes. This is where metal shears come in handy. You will use the metal stakes to secure the edging in place and in tandem with the next one.

Use a 2×4 as a buffer between the dead blow hammer and the metal edging when seeding the metal edging into the ground. By striking the metal edging directly with a hammer, you risk bending, denting, chipping and damaging it. Hammer it down until there are about two inches of metal edging above grade. Once the edging is positioned where you want it, secure it using the metal stakes provided through the openings on the ends of each piece of edging. Overlap the edging to allow you to secure both pieces using the same stakes.

To install the metal edging along a curved line, use wood stakes to position the curve where you want it. Then, drive the metal edging into the ground with the hammer and 2×4 and secure it with the accompanying metal stakes. Be sure to remove the wood stakes when you’re done and push dirt into the metal edging for additional support and stability from both sides.

FAQ

Can I make right angles with metal garden edging?

Yes, metal garden edging will take sharp angles from 45 – 90 degrees well. Use a 2×4 and a dead blow hammer or rubber mallet to gradually bend the metal to the desired position. Take your time, and know it takes many hammer strikes to get the metal to the desired degree. Do not use a metal hammer, as it will likely chip the paint finish on your metal edging.

How deeply should I bury my metal edging into the ground?

How deeply you bury your metal edging depends on what and how much you want to hold back and in place.  If you are not adding dirt, stones or mulch to the area you are edging, the edging can go deeper, revealing an inch above ground. If you are adding height to the flower bed via mulch, stones or dirt, you may not want to go so deep. A good guideline is to bury it where two inches are visible aboveground.  If you use four-inch wide metal edging, it will get you at least halfway down— maybe a little more. Be aware that because metal edging is so thin, it can also be a trip hazard.

How do you cut metal landscape edging?

You can cut your metal edging with an angle grinder and a cutoff wheel. Take all necessary safety precautions, such as wearing eye protection and long-sleeve shirts, to avoid getting burned by hot sparks. The cutting should be performed in a well-ventilated area so that hot metal sparks will not have a chance to ignite loose debris.

The post Edge a Flower Bed or Walkway in 5 Steps appeared first on Family Handyman.

One of my proudest DIY moments was when I first replaced a light fixture. Dealing with electricity comes with equal parts intimidation and fear. The thought of dealing with the connections of electric wires felt insurmountable and challenging.

Boy, was I wrong! While installing or changing a basic light fixture requires a high regard for safety and some attention to detail, it is not complicated. Nor does it require expensive tools. When it comes to electricity, there is one rule you cannot break or deviate from: Cut off the power to the source and test it before you touch it.

Although I have gained experience with electrical work, I would not consider myself quick or extremely skilled at it. Because we wanted to install our outdoor light fixture in a place without a junction box or wiring and intended for it to be connected to its own switch inside the entryway, I called an electrician. Burkhardt sent out a licensed electrician to install the box, run the wiring from outside through the walls in our office and to the entryway, and expand the box in the entryway to accommodate an additional switch, all in just a few hours. It would have taken me much longer to do and probably included patching more holes in my drywall. By calling, I turned this into a few-hour project rather than a full weekend project.

Choosing a porch light fixture

When choosing a light fixture for your porch, consider how much it will be exposed to moisture from the elements. When shopping for a porch light fixture, you find “exterior grade” light fixtures and “damp-rated” light fixtures. Choose accordingly if your light fixture will be exposed to all the weather elements, use and “Exterior grade.” If your light fixture will live under a covered porch that doesn’t receive sheets of rain, you may opt for a damp-rated fixture. It is a judgement call, when it comes to electricity outdoors go for the best protection you can find. Look for a light fixture with a universal mounting bar or mounting plate to ensure it is compatible with whichever junction box was installed.

Safety considerations

As with all electrical projects, ensure that the power to the area you are working in is turned off at the breaker before beginning work. Use a non-contact voltage connector, insulated tools and a non-metal ladder during installation. And, if at all possible, choose to do your installation on a dry day. The last thing you want to do is install a light fixture when it’s raining.

Cut the hole

After determining where you wish to hang your outdoor light, use a hole saw to cut a hole through the soffit panels and OSB underlayment into the cavity above the porch.

Run wires

Make sure you have ample excess wire and begin feeding it toward the location of the new switch. Be patient with this. Fishing wire through a wall can be frustrating, depending on how far you need to run. If you decide to have the new porch light fixture on an existing circuit with capacity, run the wire to the nearest light fixture or outlet on that circuit. When the wire is run to its final destination, install a junction box in the porch rafter with the wires running through it and strip about 1/2-inch off the ends on each side of the wires.

Make the switch connections

If you are running this light to a new light switch, make those connections now.

Attach mounting bar

The junction box will have various holes to accommodate different light mounting plates sold with your light fixture. Some mounting plates are round, and some are square. Other times, it could be just a flat bar. These mounting plates or bars (regardless of manufacturer) are designed to correspond with at least one set of holes in your junction box.

Manufacturers often provide more than one mounting option in their instructions. Choose the one that makes the most secure connection from your junction box to your mounting plate. If you can’t find a hole in the junction box that lines up with the holes on your mounting plate or mounting bar, you may have to drill a hole into the junction box with a drill bit to secure the mounting.

Connect the wires

Position the wires for easy access when making your connections. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions or diagram to connect the corresponding colors. White wire to white wire, black wire to black wire and copper wire to green grounding wire or screw.

This light fixture is “damp rated,” which means the electric wire connection is protected from the elements by connecting the wires inside a capsule-shaped housing. It is also known as a waterproof three-pole wire connector external electrical junction box.

The three-pole wire connector is stamped with a letter key for a corresponding placement of the wires in your fixture. Follow the specific placement for the white, black and grounding wire and secure tightly with the small screw found in the housing. Be sure to use the right size screwdriver to avoid stripping the small screws inside the housing. Seal the wires into the capsule and continue with your process as you would with any light fixture by neatly tucking the excess wires into the junction box.

• Note: If your light fixture doesn’t come with a protected housing, make sure to cover the wire connections with the appropriate wire nuts.

Mount the fixture

Tuck the wires away so that they don’t impede your ability to secure the fixture to the mounting plate. Install the fixture using the screws provided in their designated locations. Do this by hand rather than with a drill, in case you need to adjust a wire so it doesn’t get pinched in the process.

Test the fixture

Once your porch light fixture is securely installed and before you install the lampshade or cover, turn the power back on at the circuit breaker and test the light by turning it on at the light switch. If your light doesn’t turn on, turn off the power before and go back to ensure all the wire connections have been properly made. Also, be sure you have a working lightbulb in the fixture. You’d be surprised how many people think their light fixture doesn’t work and it is merely a blown bulb.

Once you have the light is functioning properly, turn off the switch and attach the shade according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Caulk around the base

For added safety and a cleaned-up look around the hole in your porch ceiling, apply a bead of siliconized caulk around the seam where the light fixture meets the ceiling. This will help keep moisture and bugs out and serve as an added support layer should the light fixture come loose from prolonged exposure to heavy winds.

FAQ

What does damp rated mean?

Damp-rated light fixtures are built for outdoor placement in areas protected from direct and harsh weather, such as snow or rain. An ideal location for a damp-rated fixture is a covered porch, balcony, or patio. Damp-rated light fixtures are also a great choice for interior locations with some exposure to moisture, such as basements, barns, ventilated bathrooms (not directly exposed to the shower) and cold storage warehouses where condensation can be created.

Wet-rated light fixtures are designed to withstand direct exposure to outdoor elements like rain or snow. If the light fixture is going to be directly rained on or snowed on, wet-rated is the choice you want.

Can I adjust the height of a hanging light fixture when installing it?

If your light fixture hangs down, you can absolutely change the length to hang to however high or low you want it from the ground or ceiling. Most manufacturers make these types of fixtures with extra wire, which you can simply cut to the desired height, strip back 1/2-inch to expose the wire, and make your connection.

The post How To Install a Porch Light Fixture appeared first on Family Handyman.

If you enjoy spending time with friends and family as much as I do, you know having a bar at home makes entertaining that much easier. Having all your beverages and accessories within reach and well-organized will make your social gatherings stress-free. So, why not make it yourself? All your choices, personality, character and style. Here is to building a bar – Cheers!

A note about paint and stain

You will notice that this project contains both painted and stained components. When constructing woodworking projects such as this, I always paint and stain my parts before assembling them. This allows the project to be completed faster by just touching up paint and requires less taping off and cutting in. That’s why I’ll include the finish in the cutting list below.

The only exception to that rule is when a component requires a lot of machining (such as the wine rack on this project) and will require the pieces to be sanded before being put together.

Figure A: Wine Rack Overview

Figure B: Cabinet Overview

Figure C: Kickplate Overview

Figure D: Shelf Overview

Cutting List

Overall dimensions: 64″w x 44″t x 28″d

* – Before cutting 31.5° angle.
** – 45° miters on both ends.

Remove the bark on the slab

Purchase a flattened live edge slab roughly 1-1/2-inches thick or buy a thicker slab and flatten it yourself with a planner, wide belt sander, or router gantry.

Remove all the bark along the natural edge of your live edge bar top (A). You may find some of the bark is loose, and some of it may be harder to pull off. To remove the bark, use a chisel and enter along the edge of the cadmium layer, which is the innermost part of the bark but not the actual wood. Hammer at the chisel to pry away the bark. Don’t worry if it isn’t perfect at this point. You will come back and clean it up with a wire wheel and sanding pad later.

• Tip: Avoid cutting bark with your circular saw. It often has dirt and small pebbles embedded in it that will dull or chip the blades when cutting it.

Cut the live edge to size

Plan out the bar top dimensions first, as they determine the measurements for the rest of the build.

When determining the layout, look closely at the curve of the natural edge you plan to use. Use a large drywall “T” square and whatever other squares and straightedges you need to help you mark the sides to be cut. The natural edge will be the front of the bar top, and the back will be a straight edge. If your slab is already the approximate width, using the slab with a natural edge on both sides is okay.

Line out the desired dimensions for the bar top; for me, I went with 18-ish inches wide and 64-inches long. That would give me the six-ish-inch overhang on the front of the bar that I wanted. The sides must be perpendicular to the back line, allowing the natural edge’s front to hold the desired measurement and creating 90-degree angles at the back two corners.

Cut the slab to the desired dimensions of the bar top (A) using a track saw. First, make crosscuts for the sides. Before you cut the back line, make sure you have a perfect 90-degree angle along the back edge and on either side. The base of the bar is a square, and it will be visibly obvious if the back and sides are misaligned.

Clean up the slab

Once the bulk of the bark has been removed on the bar top (A), use a wire wheel and a 150-, and 220-grit sanding disc on an angle grinder to remove any excess layers and clean up the natural edge. Then sand the bar top and edges with a random orbit sander and 150-, and 220-grit sandpaper until the entire bar top (A) feels and looks uniform.

Cut and dado the wine rack pieces

In addition to the live-edge bar top (A), the other part of the bar build that will hold a fixed measurement is the wine rack because we are building it around a standard four-inch opening for the bottle compartments.

Use a table saw and miter saw to cut the wine rack shelf (B), dividers (C), and top/bottom (E) out of the aspen 1x12s. You’ll need to edge-glue and biscuit some pieces to cut the sides (D) from.

Using a router equipped with a guide and a 3/4-in. straight cut bit, rout a 1/4-inch deep dado centered down the middle of both sides of the shelves (B) and one side of the top and bottom (E).

Assemble the wine rack

Nail the shelf dividers (C) into the dados in the shelves (B) using an 18ga. brad nailer and 1-1/2-in. brads with wood glue. You’ll only be able to nail straight through the dado into the divider (C) on one side of the shelf (B). You’ll have to toenail through the divider’s (C) front edge on the other.

When the grid of dividers and shelves has been assembled, join them with the sides (D) and the wine rack’s top and bottom (E) with wood glue and brad nails. Use a speed square to ensure all the wine rack cubbies stay square as you nail.

Sand and stain the assembled wine rack and its unattached back (F). Apply the stain with a brush and wipe it back with a cotton painter’s rag. Set aside to dry before installing the back.

Build the cabinet boxes

Cut the plywood cabinet’s inside sides (H), angled sides (G), and top and bottom (J)out of plywood using the table saw and miter saw. Use wood glue and 1-1/2-in. brad nails and screws to assemble the boxes so that the outer sides mirror each other with the angles both facing the same direction. Use clamps and clamping squares to ensure the cabinet boxes are square.

Frame the kick

Out of the 2×4 material, cut the long kickplate frame pieces (K) and the short (L) to construct the kickplate box. The center of the center kickplate frame pieces (L) needs to be placed to line up with the seams of your wine rack and side cabinets (see Fig. C above).

Join the cabinets

Now it’s time to join the constructed wine rack, cabinet boxes, and kickplate and start to see this thing really come together. To do this:

• Place the completed kick plate framing on a workbench or set of saw horses.
• Place the completed cabinets and wine rack on top of the kick plate framing.
• Clamp the two outer cabinets and middle wine rack together so that their base and top and bottom edges are flush. Secure them together with countersunk 1-1/4-in. screws.
• When they have been adequately fastened using screws, remove the clamps and center the cabinet cluster on the kick plate framing so that it overhangs evenly by 1-3/4-inches all the way around except the back side of the shallower wine rack.
• Secure the centered cabinet cluster to the kickplate framing with countersunk 2 1/2-in. screws

Prep for the slab and shiplap

To add stability to the angled cabinet sides and give us a place to attach the slab bar top (A), glue and screw the horizontal cross brace (P) flush to the top and front edge of the angled cabinet side. To prevent sagging of the cross brace, glue and pocket screw the two cross brace supports (Q) flush to the front edge and side of the cabinet tops (J).

For later mounting the live edge countertop to the bar base, pre-drill pocket holes along the top edge of the angled cabinet sides (G) and horizontal cross brace (P). Ensure that there is at least 1-1/4-inches of wood left at the top of the pocket hole to seed the screw top in without it splitting or breaking through.

This is also a good time to scab in the foot rail support (R). The foot rail support (R) is cut out of 2×4 material and screwed into the cabinet inside sides (H) between the two front and bottom edges of the cabinets. This will give you something sturdy to install the foot rail center bracket to later.

Install shiplap on the bar

Wrap the cabinet in pre-painted shiplap. I chose to use primed pine shiplap because the inside of the boards are beaded, which would be a nice visual accent on the backside of the finished bar.

Cut and nail the shiplap piece by piece using one-inch brad nails. Start at the bottom, 3/4-inch lower than the bottom edge of the cabinets and work your way up, mitering both ends. Then, move on to wrapping the angled sides in the shiplap, mitering the joint where it meets the shiplap along the front and cutting it flush to the back edge.

Stop when you are two courses from the top to install the bar top.

Install the lower countertop

The lower countertop (S) was constructed out of two edge-glued 1x12s with a biscuit joint that was then cut to width and length. Slide it into place and mark where the cross brace support (Q) notches will be along the back edge. Remove it and cut them out with a jigsaw before attaching the countertop (S) to the top of the cabinets (J) and wine rack (E) with wood glue and 1-1/4-in. brad nails from underneath.

Install the bar top

Position the live edge bar top (A) by leaving a six-inch overhang on the front of the bar and a roughly 1-3/4-in. overhang on either side. Use 2-1/2-in. pocket hole screws to secure into place through pocket holes along the top edge of the angled sides (G) and horizontal cross brace (P). Once the slab is secured via pocket screws, install the two bar top supports (T) under the live edge bar top using 18ga. 1-1/2-in. brad nails. Nail them through the shiplap and toenail them into the lower countertop (S) and underside of the bar top (A) so they are evenly spaced (18-7/8-inches apart).

After the bar top (A) has been installed, nail the last couple of rows of shiplap in place to hide the pocket screws, knowing that you will have to rip the final row on the table saw to make it fit.

Trim out the bar

Cover all plywood edges and seams with glued and brad-nailed solid wood trim pieces. Because the thicknesses of plywood and shiplap can differ between style and manufacturer, these dimensions will be unique to each project.

Use painted 1×2’s to trim out the cabinet top and bottom, sides, and angles. Ensure to cut the 31.5-degree angle on the top and bottom of the angle trim pieces. When that is done, trim the inside sides of each cabinet with a 3/4-inch x 3/4-inch piece of painted trim.

Then, install the stained 3/4-in. x 3/4-in. trim pieces on the sides and middle of the wine rack and the short shelf trim pieces between them. Finally, install the long (M) and short (N) kickplate trim pieces that wrap around the kick plate’s front/back and sides.

Build and install the shelves

• Install the metal glass holders centered on the underside of the cabinet top (J) of the right-side compartment.
• Using wood glue and 1-1/2-in. brad nails, secure the shelf face trim (U) to the front edge of the plywood shelves (V) so that its one-inch side is facing forward and the top edge and the top of the shelf are flush.
• Glue and nail the shelf ledgers (W) on the inside of the angled side (G) and inside side (H) of the cabinets so that the bottom of the ledger is 12-1/8-in. from the bottom of the cabinet. The ledgers are level from front to back.
• Glue and nail the ledger face (X) that spans the shelf ledgers (W) so that it’s flush with the top and bottom edges of the attached ledgers.
• Place the shelves (V) on top of the ledgers (W) so the lip of the shelf face (U) overlaps the ledger face (X) and the shelf is flush with the back wall of the cabinets. Nail through the top of the shelves (V) into the ledgers (W) to secure it.

Fill, sand, touch up, and seal

Fill all visible nails and screw holes with wood filler. Allow it to dry, then sand the filler back and touch up paint areas with paint and even out the stained areas. Allow the touched-up paint/stain to dry.

Use a brush to apply two coats of satin polyurethane to all stained wood components and the sanded bar top (A). Allow the coats to dry, and sand back the raised wood grain with 320-grit sandpaper between coats.

Install the footrail

We ordered all of the foot rail components from Kegworks.com. Install the support brackets for the foot rail on the front of the bar, flush with the bottom edge of the shiplap. Pre-drill pilot holes and screw the top, outer holes in the outer support brackets through the shiplap and into the edges of the buried plywood angled sides (G) using 2-1/2-in. screws. The lower two screws on each bracket lined up on the 3/4-in. shiplap overhang, so I scabbed in a chunk of 1x material in those locations and screwed through that into the kickplate. The top inside screws on the end brackets were the only places where I couldn’t hit anything solid, so a short 1/2-in. screw was installed in these two locations strictly for looks.

The center support was easily installed into the 2×4 foot rail support (R) you secured between the cabinets.

Make sure the supports are aligned and level. Cut the foot rail to the desired length with a hacksaw, install the endcaps and feed it through the supports after they are installed. Finally, install the set screws to hold the foot rail in place.

FAQ

What is the standard bar height?

The standard bar height for a home bar is 42-inches, but that measurement can change based on your height and what you feel comfortable with.  The decision will also be contingent on the height of the bar stools chosen. Bar stools are most often found in 29- to 30-inches high.

The post How To Build a Bar appeared first on Family Handyman.

Are you ready to elevate your home decor and impress your guests with unique, handmade drink coasters? In this step-by-step project, we’ll explore how to make DIY coasters using two distinct materials: epoxy resin and cement. These materials offer a perfect blend of creativity and functionality.

We’ll start by diving into how to make resin coasters, showcasing epoxy’s versatility and vibrant potential. Then, we’ll switch gears to demonstrate how to make coasters with a more industrial chic vibe using cement. Both methods allow for endless customization and experimenting with colors and textures. By the end of this, you’ll have the skills to craft beautiful, durable coasters that not only protect your surfaces but also serve as conversation starters at your next gathering.

How To Make Resin Coasters

Measure and mix the epoxy

Plan to work in a dust-free environment. Make sure you have a designated area where you will leave your resin pieces to cure so that they will not be disturbed. Note the epoxy open time. That is the time from mixing until epoxy resin sets. The resin will stay sticky and tacky for at least 12 hours. Any small dust particles that land on your resin during this time will settle in it and be visible in your finished product. While curing, cover your resin with a plastic tarp to protect it from flying insects or dust particles.

In two separate clear mixing cups, measure out equal parts of epoxy resin and hardener.

Be sure that your resin mix has acclimated to room temperature before mixing. Warm up the resin by sitting it in a bucket of hot water for 15 minutes before mixing it to reduce air bubbles and make it easier to pour.

Use a popsicle stick or plastic knife to mix the two parts thoroughly, but not too aggressively, as it could create air bubbles in the resin. The resin will initially appear cloudy, but as you stir, it will become clear—this indicates that your epoxy resin has been combined well and is ready for use.

 Add color and mica powder

Add a dye of choice to the resin, mixing in a drop or two at a time. A little dye goes a long way. Remember: you can always add more, but you cannot remove it.

Add 1/2 teaspoon of pearlescent mica powder to the resin. Mix thoroughly, ensuring even powder distribution. You can add any other material that floats and stays suspended in the resin. Fine powders like aluminum, metal or any other powder will work well. The only way to find out is to experiment and see what happens.

Pour epoxy into molds

Fill the silicone molds with the epoxy resin mix in one continuous pour. Start in the center and allow the resin to find its way to the edges of your mold.

Epoxy resin always contains air bubbles due to the stirring process.  It is important to release as many air bubbles while the resin is still a liquid as possible in order to ensure that no air is trapped in your finished product. To coax air bubbles out of the resin mix, use a heat gun or a small propane gas touch to flash the epoxy’s surface and allow the air bubbles to escape. Keep the heat source four to six inches away from the resin. Do not allow the heat source to remain in one area for more than a couple of seconds. As you work on it, you will be able to get a sense of the distance and heat time it takes to release the air bubbles.

Set aside to cure

After 24 hours, the Epoxy resin should be hard to the touch. Release from the mold and allow it to finish curing for another 48 hours before using it or exposing it to moisture. 

How To Make Cement Coasters

Make the cement coaster molds

• Cut squares of scrap 1/2-in. plywood to the size you’d like your drink coasters to be. A 3-1/2-inch square seemed about perfect to me.
• Using CA or wood glue, attach strips of 3/4-in. by 1/2-in. scrap wood or plywood pieces around the edge of the plywood square to make a 1/4-inch deep wood mold.
• Allow the glue to dry.

Add decorative detail

If you want to add decorative detail to the top of your coaster, draw out what you wish and apply a bead of hot glue over it.  When you lay in the cement, it will form and dry over the glue, leaving an impression.

Mix the cement

Mix powdered cement with water.  Add small amounts of water as you go until the mix is the consistency of a loose brownie mix.

Pal Tiya sculpting cement mix has chemical reinforcement fibers, making it ideal for coasters. It is also designed to resist cold and high heat. Before you make all your coasters, do a trial run with a very small amount to familiarize yourself with the cement you plan to use.

Coat your mold with a releasing agent

Once your hot glue is dry, coat your mold with a releasing agent to help the cement come out easily when it dries. Some people use cooking oil spray, WD40, or silicone release spray. They all work, and with this small of a project, it won’t affect the finished product.

Fill the mold and let it dry

• Trowel the cement into the mold so it is built up to the height of the sides of the mold.
• Let the filled mold sit for 24 hours undisturbed until the cement is hard to the touch.
• Release the coaster from the mold and allow it to finish curing for another 48 hours.

Polish and buff (optional)

If you want a high glossy shine on your cement, sand with very high-grit sandpaper and buffing compound. Start with 220 grit sandpaper and work your way through grits 320, 400, 600, 1000, 1500, and 3000 until it’s smooth with a bit of sheen.

Seal the drink coaster

To seal your cement coasters, use a masonry sealer or polyurethane. Brush or sponge it on, building up coats in between drying times.

FAQ

What if my epoxy resin stays sticky to the touch or doesn’t harden fully?

If, after 24 hours, your epoxy resin stays sticky to the touch or doesn’t seem to fully harden, this means your ratio of resin and hardener is not right. Usually, this happens if not enough hardener was added. Not mixing thoroughly can also be the reason the resin stays sticky.

Can I make my own molds for resin?

Yes, you can make your own molds for epoxy resin projects. Remember that to prevent the epoxy resin from seeping out of your mold, all seams must be fully sealed.  Latex caulk works well to seal seams. Ensure the caulk has fully dried before pouring the epoxy. Also, use a non-porous surface such as laminate or plastic for your molds.  If you use a porous material such as wood, you want to avoid air bubbles coming up through the wood fibers. Be sure to seal the mold with a varnish and allow it to fully cure before pouring the epoxy resin.

Will any cement work to make coasters?

Not all cement is created equal. Some have aggregate, and some have reinforcement, etc. The important thing is to find a crack-resistant cement mixture so it isn’t brittle and likely to crack over time.

Can I add colorant to my cement mixtures?

Yes, you may add color to your cement; however, be sure to find colorants specifically designed for cement.

The post How To Make Coasters Two Ways appeared first on Family Handyman.

Long ago, I realized that one quick and simple way to organize your home is to build a DIY drawer divider for your junk drawers. We all have at least one junk drawer in our desk or kitchen cabinets. Most of us can’t stand it and yet don’t know what to do with it. Organization has always been near and dear to my heart, so I decided to tackle that drawer mess and am happy to share how I went about it by making a drawer organizer with an unexpected material that makes it completely washable and waterproof.

I found it easier to make repetitive half-lap joints with my router and a custom jig than with a table saw. This jig enabled me to repeat the cuts without measuring each time I repeated the same cut.

Overview of Jig

Jig Cutting List

Measure the drawer and cut the PVC

I chose 5/16-inch thick exterior PVC siding trim for the drawer organizer. It is textured on one side and smooth on the other.  Since it is made of PVC, your drawer divider can be easily dismantled and cleaned when necessary. Furthermore, this material cuts very easily and cleanly with a router.

Measure the height of your drawer and rip the PVC material so it is at least 1/2-inch shorter than the top of the drawer box.

Measure the length and width of the inside of your drawer.  To start, cut three pieces of the ripped PVC to the length and another three pieces to the width. Once you have determined the layout and size of the compartments you’d like in your drawer, cut more for the rest of the drawer.

Make the Jig

Attach jig sides to front and back

• Using CA glue and 3/4-in. staples, attach the jig sides (B) square to the top of the jig front (A). The gap width between the sides (B) should match the width of your router baseplate. Adjust the front and back (A) length accordingly to accommodate this.
• Attach the jig back (A) square on top of the jig sides (B) using CA glue and staples.

Attach the PVC spacers

To ensure the router sits balanced when routing, center the two PVC spacers (C) on the underside of each jig side (B) roughly 1/2-inch from the back edge. Make sure to leave enough room between the spacers (C) and the jig front (A) to fit the pieces you’ll rout.

Attach the indexing spacer

Attaching the PVC index spacer (D) requires some thought and math. It is important to consider the dimensions of your drawer’s interior, the size of the objects you will be placing inside it, and the thickness of the materials you will use to build the divider. I decided that three-inch boxes would be a good size for my grid. To set up the jig for making these cuts repeatedly, I needed to:

• With the router in place between the two side pieces (B) of the jig, mark where the outside edge of the router bit will cut the channel on the jig front (A).
• From this mark, measure over your desired grid spacing and glue the PVC indexing spacer (D) into place using CA glue. Ensure the index spacer (D) is shorter than the half-lap channel will be, and use a square to keep the index space parallel to the channel routed at the top of the jig front (A).

Build the Drawer Divider

Test the jig

In order to route your half-lap joints, you will need to ensure that your router bit is the correct depth and that the half-lap channel is long enough so that your joints sit flush with one another. To do this:

• Put a scrap piece of 3/4-in. plywood on your bench and a scrap piece of PVC in the jig, butting it up to the jig front (A). Secure the pieces to the workbench with clamps.
• Using a 5/16-in. straight-cut router bit set 5/16-inch deep, route a channel through the front (A) of the jig and into the PVC, stopping just over halfway across the PVC piece.
• Check the channel. It should be just barely through the thickness of the PVC material, and the outside edges should be slightly more than half the width of the PVC. Adjust as necessary.

Rout the PVC

Moving on to cutting the actual PVC slats for the drawer divider:

• Clamp the PVC piece between the jig and scrap plywood like when testing the jig, except for this time, but the end of it up to the indexing spacer (D).
• Make a pass with the router, again stopping just over halfway across the PVC piece.
• Unclamp everything and move the PVC piece so the routed slot fits snugly into the indexing spacer (D). Clamp the PVC and jig and repeat as many times as needed., moving the freshly cut slot onto the indexing spacer (D) after each cut.  Repeat until you cut from one end of the PVC piece to the other.
• Repeat the process on your other pieces of PVC so the two half-lap joints can fold together. Be sure to rout your channel into the side you ripped on the table saw. This will ensure the clean manufacturer’s edge ends up on top and gives the piece a finished look.

Assemble the drawer divider

Place your long PVC pieces so that the channels you cut in them face upward, and interlock your shorter pieces so that the channels face downward. Use a mallet if needed to ensure the top edges sit flush. Then, place the entire drawer divider “grid” in your drawer for use.

FAQ

What is the best material to make a DIY drawer divider out of?

Any material 1/8- to 3/8-inch thick usually works well.  Most will make their drawer divider from inexpensive wood species, even MDF or a plywood. However, the downside of wood is that it needs to be sealed with polyurethane or varnish. Metal and plastics are great because they don’t requie a seal coat, but can be more difficult to machine.

Is there a standard height for a drawer divider?

There is not a standard height for drawer dividers as cabinet drawers have different heights.  The most common depth found in ready-made drawer organizers ranges from 1-1/2-inch to 2-3/4-inch.

How can I prevent a drawer divider from sliding around?

You can prevent a drawer divider from sliding around in several different ways.  Placing a bit of double-sided adhesive on the corners of your drawer divider helps keep it stable. Placing a textured plastic liner in the base of your drawer will also help prevent a drawer divider from sliding around. You may also consider rubber pads under your drawer divider to help keep it stable.

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Plants add a wonderful element to any living environment. Only recently did I start to consider growing plants in anything other than pots, on the floor or sitting on a side table near a window. I love my plants and wanted to find a creative way to incorporate them into an indoor space. As I researched ideas and options, I found living walls are all the rage and very much on trend.

The more I pondered making a living wall, the more I realized I have some specific things I want to incorporate into it. I want my living wall to be modular so I can change and rearrange it as my indoor plants grow. I want to water my living wall plants/pots in place, and I don’t want to pull out a ladder whenever I want to reach the top layer. I want my living wall to have a glowing essence. And I want to make my living wall big.

This means adding a drip system and accent lighting and truly filling up a wall space. This living wall combines functionality, visual stimulation and an easy DIY approach to making it a reality. The only secret is to have fun and feel free to make your own decisions to customize it your way.

Cutting List

Overall dimensions: 66″w x 66″t x 6-1/2″d

Note: This cutting list is specific to our wall, which had two vertical slats, two horizontal slats, and five planter boxes.
* – One edge ripped at 30°.
** – With 45° miters at each end.

Cut the cleats

Using a table saw, rip a few 1x4s at a 30-degree angle so the shorter face of the rip is 1-1/2-inches. This will be your frame cleats (M) and box cleats (D) that mimics the dimensions of the box slats (C). Then, rip the straight side of the offcut so that the long face is 1-in. This will be your wall cleat (E).

Pre-stain and cut

Before cutting all the boards to the finished sizes listed on the cut list, stain the boards for all the parts, except the wall cleat (E), ahead of time. By doing this, you will be able to touch up the stain after the unit has been assembled, and you will not be required to cut into tight spaces with a paintbrush and rag, which can leave lap marks. Let the stain dry overnight, and cut all your pieces the following morning.

Nail together the box frames

For each of the nine boxes of the living wall, join the top and bottom (A) with the sides (B) to create a square.  Use wood glue and 18ga. brad nails with at least three nails joining each corner. All nine boxes are the same in dimensions.

Build the vertical slat boxes

Install the first slat (C) centered in the very middle of the square box frame. Then, work your way to the left and right with three other slats on either side, leaving a 3/4-in. gap between each one, gluing and nailing them flush to the top edge of the box top and bottoms (A). Use at least two nails securing each end of each slat (C) in place. Keep your box slats (C) square to the box using a Speed square.

When all the slats are attached, flip over the box and install the box cleat (D) that will catch on the wall. This is nailed into the box top (A) and side (B) behind the slats and flush to the back edge of the box with the point of the 30-degree angle pointing down along the back edge of the box. Ensure that the box cleat (D) is secured with at least four nails through the top and sides (A & B), then reinforce it with a couple of screws, as it will bear all the weight of the box.

Build the horizontal slat boxes

Install the box cleat (D) flush to the top, back edge of the top (A) and sides (B) of the horizontal slat boxes using the same process to install the box cleats on the vertical slat boxes. Then leave a 1-1/2-in. gap so you have room to insert the wall cleat (E) through it when hanging it and attach the six remaining slats (C) with evenly spaced (a hair under 15/16-in.) gaps between them.

Be sure to test your first box with a wall cleat (E) to ensure it works before proceeding with the other boxes.

Build the planter boxes

To construct the planter box:

• Install the box cleat (D) to the top, back edge of the top (A) and sides (B) just like you have on the other boxes.
• To hold a plastic plant liner or square pot in place, attach a single box slat (C) at the back bottom of the planter box, just like the very bottom slat (C) of the horizontal slat box. Use 18ga. nails and wood glue to do this.
• Attach the planter face (F) flush to the front edge of the bottom (A) and sides (B) using 18ga. nails and wood glue.
• Finally, to create a dimensional detail (and let my creativity run wild), I cut scrap 4x4s, 2x4s, 2x2s, and 1x2s into 1/4-inch, 1/2-inch and 1-inch lengths. After staining the pieces, lay them out on the planter face (F) without glue to determine the placement you desire. Once you have a pattern you like, use CA Glue (also known as “Super Glue”) to secure the dimensional pieces to the planter box faces (F). This will avoid nail holes, filler and sanding of these pieces.

Build the shadow box

Put together the large shadow box frame exactly like the smaller boxes. Join the shadow box top and bottom (G) with the sides (H) using wood glue and 18ga. brad nails with at least four nails joining each corner. Ensure it is constructed square by measuring corner to corner diagonally.

Build and attach the front frame

Build the front frame out of the four mitered frame pieces (J). Nail and glue the corners to create a front picture frame with flat 45-degree angles. It is imperative that this frame is constructed square. Cut test miters and measure corner to corner diagonally when assembling to ensure it comes out that way.

Lay the completed and square front frame on the completed shadow box. Use wood glue and 18ga. brad nails to join the front frame pieces (J) to the shadow box, nailing at least every nine inches. Use the square front frame as a guide to ensure there is a uniform 1/4-in. overhang over the shadow box all the way around the frame.

Build and attach the cleat support box

Using brad nails, glue and screws, build a “U” shaped three-sided box out of the cleat support top (K) and cleat support sides (L). Attach one of the frame cleats (M) flush to the back edge of the cleat support top(K) and sides (L).

Center the cleat support box on the frame. Use wood glue and pocket hole screws to attach the cleat support box to the backside of the shadow box top (G) and top frame piece (J).

Fill, paint, stain, and polyurethane

Once everything has been assembled, fill all nail holes on the finished boxes and frame with natural-colored/maple wood filler, allow it to dry, sand back and touch up the stain.

Instead of sanding away the raised wood filler with fine-grit sandpaper, which may also remove some of the stain, wet a cotton paint rag and wipe away the filler. The moisture in the rag will make the filler pliable again and allow you to feather it back for a smooth and seamless surface.

Paint the wall cleats (E) the same color as the wall so they are inconspicuous.

Once the stain has fully dried, seal the wood with two coats of polyurethane, allowing the recommended time to dry between coats. Before applying the second coat, lightly sand back the raised grain with 320-grit sandpaper. Be sure to just knock down the grain, not to sand too hard to reach the stain layers and ruin your finish.

Hang the outer frame

Having built all the living wall elements, begin the installation process with the outer frame.

• Determine the height at which you’d like to hang the living wall frame, and use a stud finder to mark the studs and the overall unit’s centerline at that location.
• Center the second frame cleat (M) on the center line with the bottom of the cleat level and 3-3/8 inches lower than the predetermined height. Secure the frame cleat (M) into at least two studs.
• Hang the frame so that the frame cleat (M) inside the cleat support box marries to the frame cleat (M) on the wall.
• Check that the unit is level. If the cleat is hung level, the frame should end up level.
• Once you’ve got the frame level and where you’d like it, crawl underneath the unit and secure the shadow box bottom (G) to the marked studs on the wall in at least two locations using two-inch angle brackets. This will permanently lock the living wall frame in place.

Install the boxes

Now that the outer frame is installed on the wall, you can begin installing the boxes starting by placing the lowest row of boxes.

• To leave 1/2-in. gap between the frame and boxes, sit the lower boxes on a 3/4-in. piece of wood to serve as a spacer. Remember, the shadow box is recessed 1/4-inch. Therefor, placing the boxes on a 3/4-in. piece of wood will leave the 1/2-in. reveal you want.
• Slide the wall cleat (E) into position inside its box and screw it to the wall hitting at least one stud. If you can’t find a stud where your cleat needs to be positioned, mark its placement, pre-drill and install drywall anchors to hold it in place. Repeat for all boxes in this row.
• Move on to the middle row of boxes. Rest the middle row of boxes on top of the first row so they are flush on top of each other from side to side. Continue to leave the 1/2-in. gap between the boxes and the frame. Follow the same method for installing the wall cleats (E) to the wall and repeat for each box in the second row.
• Follow the same process with the top row of boxes as you did with the first two. Again, ensure a 1/2-in. gap between the frame and the sides and top of the top row of boxes. Repeat the wall cleat (E) hanging process. All nine boxes should now be installed and hung securely on the wall.

Install the watering system

After populating the wall with plants, I followed the manufacturer’s recommendations and installed the Kollea Battery-Operated Watering System. I chose this system because it has a programmable watering schedule feature and a remote control that allows for easy watering. This system requires downward water siphoning using gravity to flow to the plants. In order to feed the water drip system, I created a water tank using a square plastic flowerpot, which I sat on top of the shadow box top (G), behind the top frame piece (J).

Identify which boxes will require watering in order to determine the path of the watering tub. To promote water flow via gravity pull, ensure the tube flows in a progressive downward direction. Using a 3/8-in. drill bit, drill holes from planter to planter, starting at the top near the water tank and working your way down to the lowest planter box.  Connect the drip system tube from top to bottom using the three-way or two-way plastic couplers included in the drip system kit.  Test the water flow before adding your plants.

Install rope light

Based on how long your rope light is, determine where you want rope placement to start and end. This will be somewhat determined by the outlet you use to power them. If you go with a battery-powered rope light, this will create more flexibility, but you’ll have to determine how and where to mount the battery pack.

Secure the rope light in place with the included plastic clips and double-sided tape to the back of the frame pieces (J).

FAQs

Can I use any type of plant in my living wall?

No, not all plants are suitable for a living wall. When selecting plants for your living wall, try to group the plants by the amount of light exposure and required watering schedule they require that works with the placement of your unit.

With my living wall, can I place my plants directly into the wood boxes?

You can, but there are risks. Planting directly into your wood boxes will expose the wood to excess moisture, which could develop water stains on the outside of the box and, over time, rot the wood. If you want to plant directly into the wood planter box, line it with a 3-mil plastic liner and then a weed barrier. Remember that if you do this, the plants may develop root rot if you’re overwatering your plants.

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Repotting a plant is more than putting a plant in a pot. Not all plants belong in the same pot. Not all pots are adequate for all plants. Plastic, terracotta, cement, ceramic, wood?  Many things to consider.

Growing a thriving plant depends on the soil and pot you choose for it.  I am amazed at how many times I find a friend has a potted plant dying simply because the pot they have it in does not have a hole for drainage, the roots are rotting, and their watering schedule is off.  A plant WILL tell you what it needs. You just have to observe it. Seeing roots emerge from drainage holes, roots emerge from the soil, and leaves and stems drop off all indicate that it is time to repot the plant. My assumption is that you have a great soil mix for your plant. I must, however, also share how to select the correct pot for the plant and how to create drainage in any container without a hole.

Before you repot, research the plants you will pot and what they prefer in terms of moisture, light, and pH balance. Then, according to meter readings, adjust the watering schedule, light exposure, and soil acidity. Give the plant a good watering a few days before you plan to repot it. This will help the plant have a heartier transition and loosen the roots from the walls of the old pot.

Select a potting container

Terracotta pots are always a happy home for plants because they absorb moisture and breathe with the plant.  However, if the pot you choose is metal, plastic or ceramic glazed, ensure it has a hole at the bottom for proper drainage.

If your pot does not have a hole, you can easily drill one to allow water to drain properly and prevent roots from rotting or fungus and disease from developing.  Use a drill bit that is appropriate for the material of your pot.  Masonry bit for ceramic or terracotta. Metal bit for metal. Glass bit for glass. Acrylic or wood bit for plastic or resin. If you have to drill a hole in your pot:

• Find and mark the center point of your pot’s bottom. Place a couple of pieces of painter’s tape where you intend to drill to prevent chipping or cracking, especially in glass or ceramic.
• Drill through the bottom or turn it upside down and drill downward.  Either way, ensure you have a sacrificial piece of wood supporting where you will drill through to prevent the drill from blowing out the material and creating any further damage to the pot.
• When drilling through glass, ceramics, terracotta, or plaster, add water to cool the bit and prevent the powder of the material from becoming airborne. If you are drilling through metal, a couple of drops of oil will do the same to lubricate the bit and material.

Start with landscape fabric

Place a small piece of landscape fabric over the drainage hole to prevent pebbles and dirt from coming out the bottom when you water.

Place drainage layer at the bottom

Place one to two inches of small pebbles over the landscape fabric. This will help drain the water away from the roots and prevent them from being saturated or sitting in water.

Fill with potting soil

Fill the pot about 3/4-full with potting soil, allowing room to place your plant.

Remove plant from old pot

Gently remove the plant from its old pot. Aerate the roots by shaking the compacted dirt around them to free them up and allow them to easily grow into their new dirt. Feel free to cut back some of the roots along the outer part of the root ball. Try not to get too close to the center. Believe it or not, cutting away some of the roots will promote growth. This will also make fitting the plant in its new pot easier.

Plant in pot

In your new pot of soil, create a center depression in the dirt to make room for the plant and its roots.  You want the root ball to be about one inch below the surface of the soil line. Compress the potting soil around the roots, being careful not to crush them.

Water after repotting

For the first watering, water the plant generously to ensure all the dirt is saturated.  A good watering will release air pockets, settle the dirt and give your roots a running start to flourish in their new home.

Tips for repotting a plant

• Keep the newly repotted plant out of direct sunlight for the first few days. Even if the plant likes sun exposure, it needs a few days to adjust to its new home and will do better in filtered or indirect light.
• Sprinkle cinnamon liberally on the top layer of the soil to prevent fungus and plant diseases and repel insects. Cinnamon is a chemical-free way to help your plants be happy.
• After a few waterings, you may want to add more dirt. As plants are watered, air is released from the layers of dirt, compacting it and lowering the dirt level. Add enough dirt to cover the root ball fully, with about one inch to the top of the soil line.

FAQs

How often should I water my plants?

When it comes to watering your plants, every plant is different.  Your plant’s pot and the amount of light it receives will also influence how water dissipates and how much water it needs to thrive.  Watering frequency will also vary according to the season.  When planting or transplanting, be sure to water generously to allow the roots time to settle in. Generally speaking, plants must be watered every five to seven days.  Pay close attention to the recommended watering schedule for the plant. Plants give you signals if they aren’t happy— dropping leaves, brown or black spots, and dried-out leaves are all signs your plant wants attention.

How do I know when my plant needs a new pot?

Plants are constantly growing. With plant growth comes bigger roots going deeper and filling a pot.  When the root ball starts to pop up from the top of the dirt line, it might be time to give your plant more room.  Another way to check if your plant wants a bigger pot is to check just below the dirt line and along the outer edge of the pot.  If you feel the roots have filled out the pot it is time to change the pot. Roots can also start growing from the pot’s bottom through the drain holes.  If your plant is top-heavy, leaning over and overpowering the pot, this also means it is time to repot the plant.

Do grow lights work?

Yes, grow lights do work well for indoor plants. There are many options for grow lights. Some grow lamps have a timer, allowing you to choose how many hours of light exposure your plants receive. Other grow lights also allow you to choose red lights, blue lights or both, which support growth and flowering. There is nothing better than seeing plants flower under a grow light when, outside your window, there are inches of snow.

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