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How To Start Seeds Indoors in 8 Simple Steps

Carmen De La Paz — Wed, 30 Apr 2025 19:55:28 +0000

Planting seeds seems basic, and it is. Dirt. Water. Seeds. However, options must be considered, and some knowledge must be applied for guaranteed success and diminished failures in the form of sprouts worthy of going in your yard and maturing to harvest.

Starting seeds indoors has benefits for different reasons. Some vegetables, like tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, brussels sprouts, kale, lettuce, celery, cucumbers, summer squash, and most herbs, are referred to as “tender plants” because they can’t tolerate cold temperatures. Other vegetables, like artichokes, eggplant, and peppers, require a long growing season and will benefit from being started indoors to maximize harvest time. Overlapping with some of the above, some of these vegetables have slower root development, like peppers, eggplants, cauliflower, and celery. Starting these indoors allows for more growing time and makes them more likely to succeed when they are planted in the vegetable garden.

There are also plants that do not transplant well and are best started in the garden (or outdoors in larger containers). These include cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, and squash. These are all tender, however, so refrain from sowing them outdoors while frost is still a threat.

No matter the reason, most plants and vegetables can only win by being started indoors. Research the specific plant and seeds as you develop your green thumb. Here are the steps for starting your seeds, along with some tips to have a bountiful harvest right in your backyard, perhaps starting in your basement or kitchen window. Cheers to your green thumb!

When to start seeds indoors

I have provided a reference for when to start seeds indoors for some of my favorite vegetables. The following are the times needed for each seed to grow into a transplantable plant for the start of the outdoor growing season.

Artichokes: 8-10 weeks
Brussels sprouts: 4-6 weeks
Eggplant: 8-10 weeks
Peppers: 8 weeks
Tomatoes: 6-8 weeks

Soil to start seeds

Combine one part compost, one part vermiculite, and two parts coconut coir for an easy seed-starting potting mix. It is also acceptable to purchase seed-starting potting soil from a garden center.

Whether you make your own potting soil mixture or purchase some, it is usually fully dry. Add water to hydrate it. This will cause the soil to inflate and make it easier to break apart. Once it becomes soft and pliable, break it up with your hands or a small garden shovel, making sure all of the mix is hydrated and fluffy.

Tip: Make sure the soil is moist before planting seeds to prevent them from being displaced or sinking too deeply into the soil mix.

Transfer the soil mixture

Fill potting trays or two-inch organic pods with the soil mixture. Fill to the top, but don’t compact the soil mix down too tightly. You want the seeds to have room to sprout without a lot of effort or energy spent finding their way.

Tip: Cardboard toilet paper rolls work wonderfully as a potting reservoir because they are organic, allow moisture to pass through, and are small enough to make a seed feel snug.

Plant the seeds

Excavate a hole in the center of the potting mix with the handle of your garden shovel or a small seed sowing tool. Be sure to read the specifications for each seed type to determine the depth.

You want your seeds deep enough to be covered and shallow enough to allow the shoot to find its way up and out of the dirt. Some seeds make it easy to determine which side of the seed is up and which is down. If detectable, place the seed so the roots easily grow into the dirt and the sprout easily finds its way up.

Label your seeds

Use plant tags and a permanent marker and label your seeds. You may think you will remember which each is, but you may easily get them confused. It is crucial to know which sprouts are which to continue with the ideal light, water and temperature environment for a successful harvest.

Mist with water

After planting the seeds, you may lightly mist the soil mixture. Use a gentle spray of water to avoid displacing the seeds. You should also ensure an easy drainage path for the water to drain through the seed trays or pots.

Place on a heat mat

Seeds need warmth to grow—between 65 and 70 degrees F is ideal. Heating mats ensure the dirt is at an optimal temperature for growth. For this reason, plants should not be placed in the ground outdoors until the ground temperature is at a level that will allow the seeds to grow and flourish.

Once you have planted the seeds, place them on a heating mat until they sprout and start showing their first leaf, called cotyledons. Once you see these emerge, you can place the tray under light for 12 – 16 hours daily.

Introduce a grow light

Once the cotyledons have emerged, you may introduce grow lights. Seedlings need 12 to 16 hours of light daily. Place the grow lights about 4 inches away from the sprouts until they are ready to begin hardening for outdoor transplantation. Make sure the grow lights are not touching the leaves.

Start fertilizing

Once the sprouts develop true leaves, start fertilizing until they are ready to be transplanted. Fertilize sprouts every two weeks with ocean water (rich in nutrients) or a balanced fertilizer to encourage good roots and healthy growth. If using a water-soluble fertilizer, it is very important to use it diluted to one-half the normal strength.

FAQ

When it comes to starting seeds, what is a blackout period?

A blackout period, mostly used when growing microgreens, is a time when seeds or microgreens are kept in complete darkness to encourage specific growth processes. The length of the blackout period (two to seven days) depends on the variety of microgreens and the desired outcome. The blackout period encourages the development of root systems and longer stems, making the microgreens more tender and flavorful.

What does it mean to sacrifice a seed?

Some seeds, like beans, must be scratched (scarified) and soaked for 24 hours before planting. This will allow moisture to enter the seed and activate germination. This is easily done by scratching the outer layer and placing it in a Ziploc bag with water before putting it in the soil mix.

Why do some seeds (especially flowers) require refrigeration before planting?

Many wildflowers or plants that usually spend the winter buried in the ground getting ready for the spring need to experience cold stratification before planting. To replicate this cold period, this may be done by placing the seeds into the refrigerator or placing the seed packet outside for at least a month.

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10 Water-Saving Tips for Your Garden and Yard

Laurie M Nichols — Wed, 30 Apr 2025 16:25:30 +0000

Water, like everything else these days, is getting more expensive. In my town, the rate per gallon has more than doubled over the past two years, with another increase expected next year. Beyond the rising cost, water is a limited resource that deserves thoughtful use by both homeowners and municipalities.

To do your part and save some money in the process, opt for water-saving strategies and practices when planning and cultivating lawns and gardens. Ahead, we share ten practical water-saving tips, with input from two lawn and garden experts: Ryan Mange from CMS Landscaping and Joe Churchill from Reinders.

Choose drought-tolerant plants

This tip applies to lawns and gardens. When planting lawns, choose drought-tolerant grass seed types like buffalo grass, tall fescue or fine fescue, which require less watering once established. In garden beds, opt for drought-tolerant plants such as lavender, yarrow, salvia and black-eyed Susan to reduce the need for watering.

Add a rain barrel (or two)

Attached to your home’s gutter system, rain barrels make it easy to divert rainwater to your garden or lawn. I always have at least one rain barrel on my property and use it to water my flower containers. It’s a simple way to cut down on municipal water use, especially during dry spells. Even a single storm can fill a barrel, providing a free and sustainable water source for days.

Mulch well

“Proper mulching of plants and garden beds helps reduce water loss due to evaporation and retain water in root zones of trees, shrubs and other garden plants,” Mange says. “Three to four inches of mulch is plenty, and be sure not to pile it up around the trunks of trees and shrubs.” Organic mulches like wood chips, straw or shredded leaves can also improve soil quality over time as they break down.

Plant native shrubs

In the garden, choose native plants shrubs and perennial flowers. These set deep root systems and are more likely to ride out a dry spell. Native plants are also better adapted to local soil and climate conditions, which means they typically need less water, fertilizer and maintenance overall. Choosing the right plants can make a big difference in water usage.

Add organic matter to soil

“Organic material in the soil provides sites for both water and nutrients to adhere and be available for roots or plants,” Mange says. If your soil is hard and dry, consider amending it with compost or aged manure. This not only improves water retention but also enhances soil structure and supports healthier root growth.

Replace grass with ground cover

Ground covers like pachysandra, vinka vine and ivy require little maintenance once established, and need little to no water. The areas of pachysandra in my yard have never been watered and look great year after year.

Install a smart irrigation system

A smart irrigation system includes ground sensors placed strategically throughout your lawn. “These sensors will sense when the soil under your lawn is dry and will engage the system only when water is needed. And, just as importantly, tell your irrigation system when it’s not needed and can take the day (or two or three) off,” Churchill says. These systems “lead to precise usage and way less waste and runoff than older irrigation systems or watering with a garden hose,” Mange says.

Raise the mower height

Longer grass blades shade the soil and reduce evaporation caused by direct sun exposure by keep the ground cooler during hot weather. In addition, maintaining a taller grass height encourages deeper root growth, which improves the lawn’s drought resistance over time. Raise your mower deck to 4-in. for cooler-weather grass and to 3-in. for warm weather grass.

Only water during ideal conditions

Early morning is generally considered the best time to water, as temperatures are cool and the grass has time to absorb the water through the day. “Try to stay away from watering during the midday when ambient temps are hot, and it may be windy,” Churchill says. If temperatures are 85 degrees or higher, most of the water evaporates before hitting the ground. This is Watering on windy days prevents water from reaching its intended target.

Plant a low-water lawn alternative

Low-water lawn alternatives are becoming increasingly popular in water-scarce climates like California and Arizona. While initial installation costs can be expensive, artificial lawns offer the benefits of real grass without any need to water. Another option is to plant grass-like ground covers like clover, creeping thyme and buffalo grass that stay green, can handle minor foot traffic and require little to no water.

About the Experts

Joe Churchill is a Senior Turf Specialist with Wisconsin-based Reinders, a major distributor of lawn care products in the Midwest. He has over 25 years of experience in the turfgrass industry, is certified in Turfgrass Management with a B.A. in Geography and Horticulture from the University of Minnesota.
Ryan Mange is a Lawn/Plant Health Manager at CMS Landscaping, a full-service lawn care and irrigation company in Holyoke, Massachusetts. He is also an International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) Certified Arborist.

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10 Weeds With Purple Flowers

Laurie M Nichols — Wed, 30 Apr 2025 16:04:34 +0000

Burdock

With large, rough-textured leaves, burdock has distinctive, fast-growing foliage and pretty purple or pink flowers that look like thistles. The flowers later turn into burrs that cling to animals and clothing, helping the plant to spread prolifically. Growing to 4 to 5 feet tall in a single season, burdock is “considered invasive in North America, especially in the Pacific Northwest and Midwest,” Singh says. Manual removal is the best way to control burdock in your garden.

Fleabane

Fleabane resembles miniature daisies with their small purple, pink or white petaled flowers with yellow centers and long, narrow pointed leaves. Fleabane can be found in fields and roadsides, where it can rapidly spread and form clusters, especially in full sun. While not overly aggressive, fleabane will need management in a garden setting to control its spreading habit.

Besides its pretty purple flowers, fleabane can also be used as a bug repellant. “The leaves release compounds that are believed to help keep unwanted insects at bay,” Singh says. “It has been used to deter pests, including fleas (thus the name).”

Wild Violet

A low-growing ground cover, wild violet has heart-shaped leaves and small purple or white flowers. Violet can be quite invasive in lawns and garden beds. “Since they are perennials and readily produce large amounts of viable seed, these plants can become problematic and remain that way for quite a while if not managed early on,” Schmitz says. “Control can be difficult, depending on your comfort level with using chemicals.” I’ve found broadleaf weed killer to be the most effective method for controlling wild violet in my lawn.

Purple Deadknettle

Purple deadknettle produces small purple flowers and jagged, heart-shaped leaves that emerge from a single, central stem. Part of the mint family, it is a low-growing plant of 2 to 8 inches. One of the earliest plants to emerge in the spring, purple deadknettle is also an important food source for pollinators. “These plants are easily controlled via hand weeding in beds and rarely become an issue in turf because they are intolerant of mowing heights,” Schmitz says. “If you can tolerate them early in the season, it wouldn’t be a bad thing to let the bees have their fill before pulling these plants as other flowers come into bloom.”

Chicory

Often found in fields, meadows and along roadsides, chicory can be an attractive addition to a wildflower garden as well. Drought-tolerant and low-maintenance, it has delicate stems with purplish-blue, daisy-like flowers.

Chicory is considered an invasive plant in parts of the U.S. and can quickly take over if not carefully managed. “This stuff appears all over the place here in Maryland, where I live,” Singh says. “I see it pop up in different areas of my yard, near the driveway and along the road throughout the state.” Chicory also has medicinal properties and can be used as a coffee substitute.

Creeping Speedwell

This fast-growing ground cover produces small, purplish blue flowers on delicate stems. The opposite-oriented leaves have a rose-bud appearance on new growth and can be an attractive addition to a garden. Considered invasive in some states, creeping speedwell can become problematic if not closely tended to. It is very hardy and drought-resistant, and will grow in large patches reaching 3 feet wide.

Heal-all

Heal-all produces tall, cone-shaped clusters of small, purple or pink flowers on the top of single stems with oval, serrated leaves. A low-growing plant, the flower stems stand a bit taller than the foliage, at 6 to 12 inches. An attractive addition to gardens, Heal-all is a spreading ground cover that will need to be managed to prevent a takeover. “If left unchecked, this plant can form masses of plants and stolons stretching out along the ground. It can be pulled by hand, but it is a laborious task,” Schmitz says. “Chemical applications are able to control this plant rather effectively.”

Comfrey

With thick foliage consisting of spear-like, broad leaves, comfrey can be quite a presence in a garden, reaching heights of 2 to 4 feet. The real draw, however, is the clusters of drooping, bell-shaped purple, blue or pink flowers. If you want to add this to your pollinator garden, it will reach full size in a single season. However, it can be difficult to manage once established. Comfrey can thrive in less than ideal soils, and is drought-tolerant due to its deep tap taproots so it can be difficult to remove.

Aster

Another weed with purple flowers that is great for pollinators, asters produce small, star-shaped purple or white petaled flowers with yellow centers. They have slender, delicate leaves and stems with a clumping growth habit and can grow 2 to 4 feet tall. While not a rapid grower, once established Aster will spread through underground rhizomes. However, aster is a manageable plant in gardens, only requiring occasional splitting and cutting back.

Ground Ivy

Also known as Creeping Charlie, this opportunistic ground cover is commonly found in lawns and disturbed soil. Ground ivy produces small, purplish blue flowers and has foliage that mimics the look of clover. “It has the same square stems and attracts pollinators like other mints do, but there are few other redeeming qualities about this plant,” Schmitz says. “It crawls across the ground, rooting as it goes, creating an insidious sprawling mass of vines.” Manual removal and targeted broadleaf herbicide applications are the best methods to control this weed in beds and lawns.

About the Experts

Samuel Schmitz is a full-time faculty instructor in the Horticulture Department at Triton College in Illinois. He was formerly Ground Operations Supervisor for Ball Horticultural Company for 16 years.
Trisha Singh is the Vice President of Product at Garden for Wildlife, a program run by the National Wildlife Federation, which encourages wildlife-friendly gardening spaces. Trisha is a wildlife biologist who enjoys native plant gardening and helping to support others in their native gardening pursuits.

Sources

Clemson College of Agriculture, Forestry and Life Sciences, “Heal-all“

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Hairy Bittercress: How to Identify and Get Rid of It

Gemma Johnstone — Mon, 28 Apr 2025 19:40:36 +0000

Hairy bittercress is a fast-spreading, cool-season weed that can quickly overtake your lawn if you don’t take the right precautions. Fortunately, with the right maintenance and preventative measures, you can keep this superabundant spreader from turning your grass from lush to lacking. I spoke with three turfgrass experts to get their tips for preventing and controlling hairy bittercress.

What Is Hairy Bittercress?

Hairy bittercress (Cardamine hirsuta), or Lamb’s cress, flickweed, spring cress, or wood cress, is a low-growing, fast-spreading annual weed. Lawn care professional John D. Steiner explains that the plant belongs to the mustard family and thrives in cool, moist, shaded environments.

Hairy bittercress is native to Europe and Western Asia but has naturalized throughout much of North America. It grows readily in USDA hardiness zones 4 to 8. While it’s a winter weed that’s most prolific from late fall through early spring, it can linger year-round when conditions are ideal.

What Does Hairy Bittercress Look Like?

Are you unsure if it’s weedy, hairy bittercress emerging in your lawn? Steiner explains that this small, low-growing plant features pinnately compound leaves that divide into smaller, rounded or kidney-shaped leaflets.

“The plant produces small, white, four-petaled flowers, which develop into slender, elongated seed pods that burst open when mature, dispersing seeds explosively,” he says. Developing like a dandelion in a basal rosette, the leaves range from half an inch to one inch in size, and the flowers reach 3 to 9 inches tall.

Why Is Hairy Bittercress a Problem?

“Hairy Bittercress can be difficult to control due to its rapid lifecycle and high seed production,” Steiner says. “It completes its life cycle in just a few weeks, allowing multiple generations per year in favorable conditions.” He explains that even when conditions aren’t ideal, the seeds can remain viable for years in the soil, making eliminating these weeds from your lawn challenging.

Hairy bittercress seed pods, known as silique, contain as many as 30 seeds. When ejected from the pod, the seeds can land up to 16 feet away. This means you might treat one patch of lawn, only to discover these plants popping up on a separate patch later in the season. Plus, the seeds don’t have any dormancy requirements (a period of time when the seeds can’t germinate—even when conditions are right), and they germinate rapidly, reaching maturity and reseeding within five weeks.

The small, sticky seeds cling to containers and the underside of shoes, so you might not realize you’re bringing them home from a nursery or riverside walk, allowing them to spread into your yard sneakily.

How To Prevent Hairy Bittercress

Fortunately, there are some simple strategies you can employ to help prevent hairy bittercress from taking over your lawn or borders.

Promote a healthy lawn

A thick, healthy lawn not only looks good, it blocks out the light and space that hairy bittercress seeds need to germinate.

Plant genetics expert Matthew Koch recommends using a 3-in-1 grass seed, fertilizer and soil improver mix to help fix a patchy lawn. He also cautions against overwatering and suggests aerating your soil to break up compacted ground and improve drainage. “Since hairy bittercress prefers damp conditions, addressing excess moisture can make your lawn less hospitable to it,” he says.

Plant a dense ground cover

If you’re worried about hairy bittercress taking hold in non-lawn areas of your landscape, consider selecting a densely growing, low-maintenance ground cover, like thyme, that can choke out those unwanted weeds. Another option is to add a deep layer of coarse-textured mulch or some gravel.

Avoid spread from nursery plants and pots

Always wash out any nursery containers you plan to reuse to minimize the chance of stowaway sticky seeds spreading to your soil. Also, before planting any new greenhouse-propagated plants, check their soil for signs of germinating hairy bittercress sitting alongside them.

Minimize soil disturbance

Steiner recommends only digging or tilling your garden when absolutely necessary. “Disturbing the soil can bring buried seeds to the surface, triggering germination,” he says.

How To Get Rid of Hairy Bittercress

If your preventative strategies haven’t kept hairy bittercress at bay, here are some methods for getting rid of this weed.

Pre-emergence control

Applying a pre-emergence weed control product in late summer or early fall prevents those persistent seeds from germinating. “Several pre-products (dithiopyr, isoxaben, and oryzalin) have activity on hairy bittercress in turfgrass,” Professor and Extension Turfgrass Specialist Grady L. Miller says. Application instructions vary, so always carefully read the label, and don’t expect these products to work on emerged plants.

Post-emergence control

When you want to get rid of hairy bittercress that’s already established, you can apply selective or non-selective weed control products. “Post control can be achieved with several applications of mixtures of 2,4-D, carfentrazone, dicamba, MCPP, MCPA and/or sulfentrazone,” Miller says. “Other post options included atrazine/simazine (where appropriate/labeled), imazaquin, metribuzin, metsulfuron, triclopyr (alone or in combination with other broadleaf control products such as fluroxypyr or 2,4-D).”

It’s best to apply these products before the plant produces seeds, and always check the label for application instructions and to ensure it’s suitable for use on your lawn.

Pulling manually

Pulling these shallow-rooted weeds by hand or with a tool is a more time-consuming, physical removal method, but it’s a natural way to kill weeds and means you won’t risk damaging the surrounding lawn or ornamental species.

“Hand-pulling is most effective in moist soil when the roots can be easily extracted,” Steiner says. He also recommends doing this before plants flower and set seeds.

Regular mowing

Don’t panic if you’re not quick enough with chemical controls and there are too many hairy bittercress plants on your lawn to pull manually. “Regular mowing before the plant flowers prevents its seed pods from exploding and spreading seeds,” Koch says.

FAQ

Is hairy bittercress poisonous to animals?

Hairy bittercress is not poisonous to animals, so you don’t have to worry about your dog or pet rabbit nibbling on any untreated weeds appearing on your lawn. The leaves are actually edible, and their mild, peppery flavor makes them popular salad additions.

About the Experts

Matthew Koch is the Director of Biotechnology, Genetics, and Seed at Scotts and has a PhD in plant genetics and breeding from Rutgers University.
John D. Steiner is the Regional Manager for NaturaLawn of America. He is a licensed, seasoned lawn care professional with over 38 years of experience.
Grady L. Miller, PhD, is a Professor and Extension Turfgrass Specialist in the Crop and Soil Sciences Department at North Carolina State University. His research activities are centered on cultivar evaluation, irrigation practices, turfgrass nutrition, and athletic field maintenance practices.

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Here’s How Much Water Your Grass Really Needs

Gemma Johnstone — Mon, 28 Apr 2025 19:31:53 +0000

Before I started learning about landscaping, I always thought the more the merrier was a good mantra when considering how much to water my lawn. However, overwatering can be as much of a problem as underwatering for turfgrasses, both leading to yellowing and other lawn health issues.

I spoke with two turfgrass experts to understand how much to water lawns to keep them looking lush and what factors influence watering frequency and volume.

How Much Should I Water My Lawn?

“Most lawns require about 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation,” John Kaminski, Associate Professor of Turfgrass Management in the College of Agricultural Sciences at the Pennsylvania State University, explains. Also, it’s best to water deeply and slowly once or twice a week rather than a light daily watering, which won’t support the development of deep grass roots.

However, while this is a helpful guide, the optimal amount and frequency depend on various factors.

What Factors Influence How Much To Water My Lawn?

Grass species, soil composition and seasonal conditions all play a part in how much to water your lawn.

Lawn type

The species of turfgrass you select can influence how much you water your lawn at different times of the year. “Cool-season grasses (like Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue) tend to need more water during hot, dry summers,” Kaminski says. “Whereas warm-season grasses (like bermudagrass or zoysiagrass) are more drought-tolerant, but still benefit from consistent moisture in peak summer.

Lawn age

A newly seeded lawn requires more frequent, shallower watering than an established lawn.

Season

Slow, deep watering once or twice a week is usually ideal during the summer months. “This approach encourages grass to develop a deeper root system, making it more resilient to heat and drought,” Kaminski says. He recommends allowing the water to penetrate at least 6 to 8 inches into the soil. “In spring and fall, when temperatures are cooler, you can usually cut back on watering unless it’s particularly dry,” he says.

Soil composition

Fast-draining sandy soils may need more water, more regularly than slow-draining clay soils, which hold moisture for longer.

Other environmental conditions

While you would expect to give more water in hot, dry regions, it’s not just temperatures that affect the rate of water required for your lawn.

“The most important [environmental] conditions are radiant energy (sunlight), atmospheric vapor pressure (relative humidity), temperature, wind movement, and available soil moisture,” Grady Miller, professor and extension turf grass specialist, explains. “Minimal water is used under dark, cloudy days with high relative humidity, low temperatures, and little to no wind.”

You need to provide the most water for your lawn during bright sunny spells with low relative humidity, high temperatures and moderate to high winds.

How Much Should I Water a Newly Seeded Lawn?

When watering new grass seeds, you need to do this frequently and shallowly. This ensures even moisture on the soil surface, allowing the seeds to germinate and establish roots. “[Watering] 2 to 3 times per day for the first couple weeks helps prevent the seedbed from drying out,” Kaminski says. “Once the seedlings emerge and begin developing roots, you can gradually reduce the frequency and increase the depth of watering to encourage deeper root growth.”

Signs You Are Underwatering Your Lawn

While yellow or brown patches on your lawn are well-known signs that it isn’t getting enough water, it’s good to look for earlier signs you are underwatering. That allows you to remedy things before you need to fix a patchy lawn.

Kaminski suggests looking for subtle signs of wilting and discoloration. “Grass blades that turn a dull bluish-green or begin to curl are often moisture-stressed,” he says.

He also recommends the “footprint test.” “If your footprints stay visible on the lawn for more than a few minutes, it’s a sign the grass isn’t springing back and may need water.”

What Are The Signs I Am Overwatering My Lawn?

Signs of an overwatered lawn can be similar to an underwatered one—in that it can also turn yellow and develop bare patches. However, it can also be more soggy-looking and weed or fungi-infested. Plus, a layer of thatch can develop more rapidly, as the excess water prevents the soil and grass from effectively breaking down the plant material buildup.

Kaminski says you might also see water run off onto paths and driveways, as your soggy lawn can’t absorb more moisture effectively.

Tips To Avoid Overwatering a Lawn

Overwatering is one of the most common lawn mistakes. Follow these tips to prevent this from causing shallow root growth, disease development and water wastage.

Install a rain sensor or smart irrigation controller: Kaminski explains that these adjust water amounts to account for weather changes.
Use a rain gauge: This allows you to measure how much water your lawn is receiving.
Check your soil: “If it feels soggy or water is pooling, dial it back,” Kaminski says.
Water early in the morning: Your lawn is active at this time and will absorb the water it needs. Any excess can evaporate off during the hotter part of the day.

About the Experts

John Kaminski, PhD, is an Associate Professor of Turfgrass Management in the College of Agricultural Sciences at the Pennsylvania State University.
Grady L. Miller, PhD, is a Professor and Extension Turfgrass Specialist in the Crop and Soil Sciences Department at North Carolina State University.

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Lawn Care Playbook: How To Supercharge Your Yard This Season

Laurie M Nichols — Tue, 22 Apr 2025 21:21:41 +0000

Taking care of a lawn and yard for the first time can be exciting, especially for new homeowners. However, the lack of necessary tools and know-how can be a challenge. This was me when I bought my first home. I had always rented and knew nothing, and I didn’t have any lawn tools. At first, I felt a bit overwhelmed, but with each season, I gained more confidence, knowledge and tools.

If you’re new to lawn care, don’t panic. It’s completely normal to start without all the answers. Read on for our beginner’s lawn care guide, featuring expert advice from three professionals: Joe Churchill from Reinders, Matt Cameron from CMS Landscaping and Tylor Harrington from Berkshire Turfgrass Specialists.

Tools and Materials

When starting out with lawn care, you’ll need a few basic tools.

Lawnmower: Push mowers are great for small lawns, while a ride-on tractor is better for large ones.
String trimmer: Use a string trimmer for the edges of the lawn. Electric, battery, and gas-powered options are available.
Rake: Garden rakes are great for cleaning up leaves and debris from the lawn. For a splurge, pick up a leaf blower.
Lawn spreader: Used to spread fertilizers, herbicides and grass seed, lawn spreaders are frequently used throughout the lawn care season.
Hose: An indispensable tool with a myriad of uses, a high-quality hose is worth the extra cost.
Sprinkler: Invest in a sprinkler or two (or more, depending on the size of your lawn). There are lots of types to choose from.”I can’t say one sprinkler type is better than others,” Churchill says, “but make sure to match the sprinkler to your lawn’s size and shape.”
Aerator: You’ll want to aerate at least once a season. Consider renting one from your local hardware store.
Protective gear: Don’t forget personal protective items like gloves, hearing protection and protective eyewear.

Prepping for Spring and Summer

In the spring, clean up debris or leaves left from the winter months, then fertilize and add pre-emergent herbicides. Thin or bare spots can be overseeded in the spring, but “if you’re seeding in the spring, seed will always emerge slower,” Churchill says, noting it may need a bit more attention as a result. Water regularly during the summer, continue weed management efforts and aerate the soil.

Seeding

Spread seed in the spring or fall, not during the summer. Always choose grass seed appropriate for your climate. Rake to loosen the soil, and spread the seed evenly with a lawn spreader. Gently rake the seeds into the soil, then water regularly to keep the seed moist but not soggy for a few weeks.

Mowing

Keep mower blades sharp by sharpening once or twice a season. Set the cutting height of your mower to between 3 to 4-in. for cool season grasses or 2 to 3-in. for warm-season grasses.

Alternatively, you can follow Cameron’s “1/3” rule, which means to only cut 1/3 of the blade off when you mow. He also recommends mulching clippings instead of bagging them to return nutrients to the soil.

Watering

Aim to water approximately twice a week, preferably in the morning. “Try to stay away from watering during the midday when ambient temps are hot, and it may be windy,” Churchill says. Aim to give your lawn 1 to 1 1/2-inches of water per week, but know that this amount can be adjusted. “There are many factors that determine if and when your lawn needs water,” Churchill says, including daytime temperatures, lawngrass types and recent rainfall amounts.

Fertilizer

Pick the right fertilizer for your lawn type, then spread it evenly with a lawn spreader. In cooler climates, fertilize in the spring and fall. In warmer climates, add fertilizer in the late spring or summer. Always read the directions and follow them carefully. Overfertilizing can kill your lawn or lead to yellow spots. Time it so you spread fertilizer right before a rain, or water thoroughly immediately after.

Crabgrass and Weeds

Regular weed management promotes a healthier lawn and helps keep weeds under control. “A strong stand of turf will compete with weeds,” says Harrington, preventing weed germination. Crabgrass, which appears in late spring or early summer, can be prevented with a pre-emergent herbicide in mid-spring. Broadleaf weeds like dandelions, clover, and chickweed should be treated with herbicide in spring. Grassy weeds are best managed by manual removal and targeted herbicides.

Brown Patches

Brown grass indicates dead grass, but identifying the cause is key to fixing it.

Pet urine: Dilute urine spots with hose water to prevent brown patches.
Improper watering: In dry weather, water deeply weekly.
Fungal issues: Treat brown patches caused by fungus, which can occur from overwatering with a fungicide.
Pests: Grubs in the soil can stress your lawn and lead to brown patches, but can be treated with grub killer.
Lawn clippings: “Excess clippings and debris can create problems like thatch buildup or dead spotting,” Cameron says, so only mow dry grass and bag long clippings.

Once brown patches are remedied, rake dead grass and reseed in the fall.

Fall and winter maintenance

In the fall, rake and remove fallen leaves from your lawn before winter. Rent an aerator and aerate the entire lawn, which Cameron touts as one of the most important lawn care practices. Don’t forget to overseed and water in the fall as well, to help your lawn emerge healthy and strong in the spring.

About the Experts

Joe Churchill is a Senior Turf Specialist for Reinders, a major distributor of lawn care products throughout the Midwest. Churchill is certified in Turf Management and has over 25 years of experience in the turfgrass industry.
Tylor Harrington is the owner and operator of Berkshire Turfgrass Specialists. He has a degree in Turfgrass Management from University of Massachusetts Stockbridge School of Agriculture. He worked grounds keeping in professional sports (mostly baseball) before moving back home to Dalton, Massachusetts to open his business.
Matt Cameron is the owner of CMS Landscaping, a full-service lawn care and irrigation company in Holyoke, Massachusetts. Matt has 15 years of landscaping experience.

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Lawn Care Confessions: Unfiltered Truths & Trade Secrets Behind Perfect Lawns

Karuna Eberl — Thu, 17 Apr 2025 19:05:37 +0000

At one point in his career, lawn care expert Ryan Waltz was tasked with maintaining golf courses for the Professional Golfers’ Association of America’s (PGA) tour events. It was a monumental task, which often started at 2:30 a.m. Every aspect needed to be perfect, from making sure the mowing stripes on the tee boxes pointed in the correct direction to timing the irrigation system precisely down to the second.

“Every angle of turf care had to work in tandem to make these events what they were, both for the players and aesthetically for the audiences watching on TV around the world,” he says.

Luckily, creating an enviable lawn at home is a lot less stressful, but it still requires knowing the fundamentals of a lawn ecosystem. Think of the challenge as conducting a symphony, where instruments combine to create a lush and vibrant experience. But instead of violins and tubas, your tools are water, soil conditioning, nutrition, aeration, weed control, mowing, timing and especially passion.

“Maintaining a home lawn should never require you to wake up at 2:30 a.m., but it may require you to spend a little extra time in the garage sharpening those mower blades a couple times a year to keep a clean cut,” says Walts.

It All Starts With The Soil

In years past, the main focus of lawn care fell on the grass, so fertilizers and mowing schedules were the priorities. But now we’re becoming increasingly aware that success actually starts with a healthy soil ecosystem — healthy soil fosters better growth, helps keep out weeds, cuts water usage in half and enhances nutrients, which can reduce fertilizer dependence by 40%.

“The real secret is what is happening under the surface,” says turf specialist Bennett Barrier. “Would you prefer to spend decades fighting yellow patches and weeds or establish a self-sustaining lawn?”

One of his clients in Dallas learned this lesson the hard way. Before consulting with Barrier, he had spent thousands of dollars on high-quality sod but neglected to address his soil. “The compacted clay suffocated the roots, and by the time he called us in, half the grass had died,” says Barrier. Barrier was able to revive the lawn using liquid aeration and organic composting. “Within months, the lawn recovered,” he says. “Proper soil prep is everything.”

It’s also vital to test your soil to assess its pH levels and nutrient deficiencies. Landscape designer Eduard Negodenko used this tactic to revive a large residential lawn that had gone unattended for years. The soil test prompted him to add lime and organic matter. He also aerated it, reseeded it with drought-tolerant grass and installed a drip irrigation system for water conservation.

“The natural process was long and slow,” says Negodenko. “I remember the client losing faith halfway through. But in months, the lawn finally transformed into a beautiful green space. Starting off with the soil is the biggest takeaway for me. No amount of mowing or fertilizer could ever give a sustainable, beautiful lawn without soil health being addressed.”

Tips For A Lush, Healthy Lawn From Turf Pros

Aeration

Negodenko, Walts and Barrier all emphasize that aeration is vital for reducing soil compaction, as it allows more water and nutrients to reach the grasses’ roots. Traditionally, aeration involves a machine that punches small holes into the soil, but Barrier says it’s also possible to aerate with a soil-conditioning spray.

“For larger areas, machine aeration is effective, especially when the soil is compacted,” says Barrier. “For smaller or more delicate lawns, a soil-conditioning spray can be equally beneficial without disrupting the yard.”

Negodenko further recommends following aeration with a mixture of organic compost and sand to improve drainage and bring in needed nutrients.

Pre-Emergent

Content creator Jordan Netzel, aka “The Lawn Tools,” says his No. 1 tip is to use pre-emergent to prevent weeds. “Preventing the weeds from popping up in the first place is a lot easier than trying to kill them after the fact, specifically with crabgrass,” he says. (Many experts recommend avoiding products with glyphosate, however, which harms bees and natural ecosystems.)

Proper Mowing

Negodenko says most homeowners make the mistake of cutting grass too short, which weakens lawns by making them more susceptible to weeds and diseases. For most grass species, he recommends a height of three inches.

Emerging trend: electric lawn equipment. “I see a lot of people being really bitter about battery equipment, but I like how quiet it is and I love how low maintenance it is,” says Netzel. “My ah-ha moment was after I had been using electric trimmers and found myself extremely annoyed with how loud my neighbor’s gas string trimmer was.”

Adequate Watering

Many lawn enthusiasts don’t realize that it’s better to water deeply and less frequently, which helps roots grow deeper, says Negodenko. Also, beware of inconsistencies in your irrigation system, which could cause overwatering in some areas and underwatering in others.

Emerging trend: smart irrigation systems. These new, nifty devices monitor soil moisture, weather and soil type, then adjust irrigation accordingly. They save money, plus EPA studies have shown that they can save up to 50% on water use, says Barrier. “That is quite a lot, especially for areas experiencing drought or water restrictions,” he says.

Organic Fertilizers

Walts recommends regularly applying slow-release, eco-friendly soil treatments like compost or organic soil amendments to improve soil health and make grass more resilient. Organic fertilizers are gentler on the environment, reducing runoff into waterways while promoting healthy soil. A common mistake is over-fertilizing with chemical fertilizers, which can lead to nutrient overload, polluting the environment and harming beneficial insects.”

Organic fertilizers are also trending in commercial lawn care, says Negodenko. “There’s a move towards less chemical fertilizers and pesticides treatment, with a growing percentage of lawn care enthusiasts going for organic alternatives of compost tea or neem oil for that healthy lawn,” he says.

Probiotics

A milestone new trend is soil probiotics, says Barrier. These combinations of fungi and bacteria improve soil health by making nutrients more available and helping with water retention. One study showed they enhance drought tolerance by 30%, a big plus with increasingly erratic rain patterns. Plus, they lessen the need for synthetic fertilizers, so they’re better for the environment and overall soil health, he says.

“Smart irrigation systems and probiotics are areas where we’re seeing a real positive, exciting change in the industry,” says Barrier. “Probiotics are a newer trend, but their benefits are becoming increasingly obvious as more research is done.”

LawnTok

Want more lawn ideas? Try using LawnTok for helpful solutions, says Negodenko. “LawnTok is propagating knowledge and excitement about lawn care for most DIY enthusiasts,” he says.

For A True Show-Stopping Lawn, Think Beyond Grass

Creating a truly knockout lawn takes more than just grass, says Negodenko. Instead, aim for a yard that feels aesthetically whole, plus serves a purpose by including elements like pollinator-friendly gardens, water-efficient irrigation, xeriscaping and areas designed for outdoor living.

“Emerging trends in lawn care these days are influenced by sustainability and environmental responsibility,” he says, “effects that are beneficial not only to this planet but also to the increasing demand for low-maintenance landscapes.

Negodenko’s other pro-tips for achieving a well-rounded yard include:

Plant a diversity of plants for year-round interest, especially native species that are well-adapted to your climate, helpful to the ecosystem and require less maintenance. “With annuals and perennials, mixed with shrubs and ornamental grasses, your yard is guaranteed a splash of color and texture well into the winter,” he says.
Hardscaping, such as walkways, patios and garden borders, adds a refined feel to your yard and enhances its functionality. “Most homeowners stuff their yards with as many features as possible or place them completely ignoring flow and proportion,” he says. Just a well-designed path or even a simple stone border around flower beds can do so much to create the illusion of structure and visual interest.”
Create defined edges. “A crisp lawn edge and some nicely defined hedges will instantly transform your yard into having a well-manicured, professional quality, and ensure it becomes the star in the neighborhood,” he says.

Netzel’s advice for creating a show-stopping lawn is stripes. “A weed-free and fresh-cut lawn can look nice, but if there are stark lawn stripes, that’s what will turn heads,” he says. I take it to the next level by trying to incorporate different patterns to make my lawn look like plaid.”

If you want in on the stripes game, Netzel says the trick is to use a roller or something heavy on the mower that will push that grass over as you mow. Then, when you go in different directions, the grass will reflect the sun differently and appear to be different shades of green. “Stripes going toward and away from the sun show up the best,” he says.

Finally, keep in mind that creating the perfect lawn will require some trial and error, so have fun with the journey.

“In lawn care, Tiger, Phil and Rory are nowhere to be found, but there is still grass,” says Walts. “At home, it may not require the same level of intensive care as a golf course, but it still demands love and care to perform its best.”

About the Experts

Eduard Negodenko has been designing landscapes and providing lawn and garden expertise for more than seven years. He currently works at Avanti Landscaping in Toronto, Canada.
Ryan Walts is training manager and business coach at the fertilizer and weed control franchise Lawn Squad. He has 17 years of experience in turfgrass science and maintenance.
Bennett Barrier is a turf specialist and CEO of DFW Turf Solutions.
Content creator and Toro ambassador Jordan Netzel and his brother are “The Lawn Tools.” Unless Netzel’s lawn looks like an MLB baseball field, he’s not happy.

Lawn Lords

Family Handyman — Wed, 16 Apr 2025 15:58:46 +0000

Weeds: Stop the Spread

What Are Spurge Weeds and How Do You Get Rid Of Them?

Get Rid of Lawn Weeds For Good With These 12 Tips

Is Bleach as a Weed Killer a Good or Bad Idea? Experts Weigh In

10 Mushrooms Growing In Your Grass and What It Means

Grass Growth

The Best Way to Plant Grass Seed for a Lush Lawn

Why Grass Seed Goes Bad— And How To Work Around It

Bring New Grass Seed To Life With These Watering TIps

Why Grass Won’t Grow Under Your Trees—and How to Fix It

Landscaping Wisdom

Why Is My Neighbor’s Lawn Greener Than Mine?

When Are You Too Old to Mow Your Own Lawn? Experts Weigh In

How Much Should You Pay Someone to Mow Your Lawn?

10 DIY Pond, Fountain and Waterfall Projects That Will Transform Your Yard

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What Are Spurge Weeds and How Do You Get Rid Of Them?

Shifrah Combiths — Tue, 15 Apr 2025 13:41:43 +0000

Spring is the perfect time to prepare for everything summer brings. The warmer weather and later sunlight bring people outside of their homes and into their yards. From filling container gardens to laying new mulch, spring is kickoff season for yard work. Just a couple of weeks ago, here in east Tennessee, we started needing to mow our lawns and prepare them for summer.

A big part of lawn maintenance is weed control. As with so many things, prevention is key. This is particularly true with spurge weeds, which plague lawns all across the United States. Spurge weeds are hardy and produce thousands of seeds per plant once they flower, so it’s important to catch them before they sprout or very soon after.

Ahead, some more information about how to spot spurge weeds, how best to get rid of them, and what you can do to prevent them.

What Are Spurge Weeds?

Spurge weeds belong to the genus Euphorbia. They are fast-growing, invasive plants that are the bane of many Americans with lawns and lawn care routines. They thrive in poor, compacted soil and hot, dry environments, so they are especially prolific during summer months.

According to Julia Omelchenko, resident botany expert at plant care app Plantum, “There are several types of spurge, such as the spotted spurge (Euphorbia maculata), the ground spurge (Euphorbia prostrate) and the creeping spurge (Euphorbia serpens), to name a few. While these species slightly differ in appearance and growth patterns, they still have lots in common.”

Omelchenko details, “Spurge weeds form thick mats, smothering grass and cultivated plants,” and they’re particularly problematic because “if left unchecked, these highly resilient weeds can quickly spread over a large area.” Each plant can produce thousands of seeds that can germinate immediately, the next year, or stay dormant in the soil for years, according to the horticulture division of the University of Wisconsin-Madison. In addition, when the stems or leaves of spurge weeds are damaged, they release a milky white sap that irritates the skin and can be toxic to pets if swallowed.

Another characteristic of spurge weeds is their adaptability to various conditions and their rapid reproduction, both of which make them a huge nuisance to residential landscapes.

What Do Spurge Weeds Look Like?

Spurge weeds are easy to spot. They grow in areas like cracks in sidewalks, driveways or garden beds near concrete and have a distinct appearance that’s easy to distinguish from surrounding plants and grass.

Ryan Walts, turf management expert and training coach of lawn maintenance franchise Lawn Squad, describes spurge weeds as having “a distinctive appearance with small, oval leaves arranged in a whorled pattern around the stems. The leaves may have a reddish tint, especially in the summer heat. One of the key identifiers is the plant’s ability to form a mat-like structure on the ground, which can crowd out surrounding plants.”

Omelchenko adds, “During the growing season, spurge produces tiny green or pink flowers in the leaf axils. Despite their size, these flowers generate a large number of seeds, allowing spurge to spread rapidly. The seeds can be carried by wind, water, animals, lawnmowers, and even sticking to shoes.”

How To Get Rid of Spurge Weeds

Although spurge weeds are invasive and spread quickly, they don’t have to be hard to get rid of if you’re aware of some important points.

The first line of defense against spurge weeds, once they appear in your landscape, is weeding by hand. Targeting spurge weeds is easy because they’re easy to spot. Omelchenko explains how to hand-weed spurge weeds effectively: “Hand-weeding is a good option for handling small patches of spurge plants, provided you do it properly. It’s crucial to remove the root system, especially the taproot, to prevent regrowth. Make sure to wear gloves during the process to avoid contact with the irritating sap. The best time to remove spurge is when the soil is moist, as dry soil can cause the roots to break, leaving parts behind and allowing the weed to grow back.”

Herbicides can also be used to deal with spurge weed, but Omelchenko cautions, “Remember that herbicides can harm other garden plants or crops and can be toxic to humans and animals, so use them only as a last resort.” She adds that “herbicides are most useful when spurge appears in sidewalk cracks or garden paths rather than in garden beds or lawns.”

Walts is also a proponent of herbicides. “The most effective way to control spurge weeds is to apply the weed control product directly on the target area. Spurge is a broadleaf weed, so applying the appropriate post-emergent herbicide that targets broadleaf weeds is essential,” he says.

How to Prevent Spurge Weeds From Returning

Because spurge weeds are invasive, you should expect their yearly return to your garden. However, there are some preventive measures you can take.

Maintaining a healthy lawn is actually one of the best ways to discourage spurge weeds. Omelchenko explains, “Since spurge weeds thrive in compacted or poor soils, they tend to appear in lawns with thin or bare patches. That’s why proper lawn care, such as mowing, watering, and fertilizing, promotes thick and strong grass that can naturally outcompete weeds like spurge.” Walts concurs, saying, “Prevention begins with maintaining a healthy lawn. Aeration, fertilization, and overseeding can help create a dense lawn that makes it more difficult for spurge weeds to establish. A well-maintained lawn is a natural defense against many weed species, including spurge.”

In addition, pre-emergent herbicides and consistent hand-pulling can help keep spurge weed under control. However, it’s important that both of these methods be used before seeds germinate in order to maximize their effectiveness. “Consistent hand-pulling of any young spurge plants before they can produce seeds will help to limit their spread,” confirms Walts.

FAQs

Why are spurge weeds so hard to control?

Spurge weeds are difficult to control due to a few factors. They thrive in areas that are inhospitable to other plants, such as in compacted soil and in hot, dry environments, so it’s easy for them to grow. Their tap roots are hard to pull out, so even when they are pulled by hand, and you think you got them, they could re-emerge from the tap root remnant that’s still in the soil. In addition, they are self-seeding and can spread quickly if not kept in check.

Can I eliminate spurge weeds for good?

Spurge weeds are prolific, rampant, and invasive. You shouldn’t expect to get rid of them once and for all. Instead, you should prepare for them with a pre-emergent herbicide in early spring and then be vigilant to hand weed whenever you see new plants pop up so they don’t have a chance to germinate and spread. Also, stay on top of maintaining your lawn, since dense, healthy lawns with no bare spots help minimize spurge weed.

About the Experts

Julia Omelchenko is a botanist at AIBY Inc. and plant expert for the Plantum plant care app, where she has consulted on botany-related topics for five years. Her areas of specialization include phytopathology, plant physiology, and plant biochemistry.
Ryan Walts is a turf management and maintenance expert with a passion for turf science. He is also a training manager and business coach for lawn treatment franchise Lawn Squad.

Sources

Julia Omelchenko, botanist and plant consultant for plant care app Plantum
Ryan Walts, turf management expert and training manager at Lawn Squad

“University of Wisconsin-Madison Wisconsin Horticulture Division of Extension: Spotted Spurge, Chamaesyce (=Euphorbia) maculata“
“University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources: Spotted Spurge and Other Spurges” (2009)

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Why Is My Neighbor’s Lawn Greener Than Mine?

Karuna Eberl — Mon, 14 Apr 2025 20:25:19 +0000

For some, the quest to create the lushest, greenest lawn on the block is a serious summer-long competition. For others, it’s more about just having a comfortable, aesthetically pleasing place to chill outdoors. Regardless of personality type, at some point, we’ve all probably asked ourselves, “Why is the neighbor’s lawn greener than mine?”

The answer is multi-faceted. A lot of lawn care practices need to come together to create that masterpiece. But getting it right isn’t out of reach. Here’s what to know about why your neighbor’s lawn is greener than yours and how to troubleshoot what’s holding yours back.

Why Is My Neighbor’s Lawn Greener Than Mine?

Watering habits

In general, lawns benefit from deep watering, which encourages strong root growth. Landscape designer Eduard Negodenko recommends soaking the ground to 1.5 inches deep once a week in the early morning. Also, avoid night watering, as it can encourage fungal diseases.

“Irrigation systems also vary,” he says. “Perhaps your neighbor’s system blankets the entire lawn evenly with hydration, while your hand-held hose or sprinkler may miss some spots.”

Soil composition

Soil composition varies between yards due to home construction, past landscaping practices and natural soil variations. A soil test can determine the nutrient balance in your soil and whether your yard’s pH is too high (alkaline) or too low (acidic). The ideal range for most grasses is between 6.0 and 7.0, says Negodenko. “Anything above or below and your grass will struggle to absorb nutrients no matter how much fertilizer you apply,” he says.

Nutrients and fertilization

Lawns lacking nutrients may look pale or yellowish, says turf expert Ryan Walts. “Products containing nitrogen, iron, and/or ferrous sulfate often encourage green-up of the grass and provide a more immediate visual response,” he says. Also, a soil test will show what essential nutrients might be lacking, such as nitrogen, phosphorus or potassium.

The type of fertilizer can also affect lawn color. Quick-release fertilizers can green things up quickly but for a shorter time. “If the neighbor uses slow-release nitrogen-rich fertilizers every six to eight weeks in the growing season, the grass will always be green in color,” says Negodenko.

Shade

Most grass varieties do best with at least four to six hours of direct sunlight per day. If your lawn is less green “it could be that your neighbor’s yard is receiving a little more sun, or they chose a shade-tolerant variety like fine fescue or St. Augustine, while your yard struggles with a sun-loving species like Bermuda grass,” says Negodenko.

Weed control

Competition from weeds can also weaken a lawn. “If weeds such as crabgrass, dandelions or clover are stealing nutrients and water, your grass will have trouble maintaining health,” says Negodenko.

Mowing habits

“Most homeowners mow too short, thinking this will cause the lawn to need mowing less frequently, but this actually damages the lawn because it exposes more soil surfaces to sunlight,” says Negodenko. That ends up making it more susceptible to weeds.

The ideal mowing height varies by grass type, but in general, cutting it no shorter than three inches, as well as never cutting off more than one-third of the length of the grass blades, will keep your lawn healthy and help it develop deep roots that hold onto moisture.

Lawn care routine

Another reason your neighbor’s lawn might be greener than yours is their maintenance routine. “A lawn with a consistent care program, including aeration, overseeding and seasonal treatments, will generally stay greener and healthier throughout the year compared to one that doesn’t,” says Walts.

Tips To Make My Lawn Look Like My Neighbor’s

Just ask

“The best first step to make your lawn the same as your neighbor’s is to ask what they do,” says Negodenko. “They may give you a bit on the products they use, watering schedules or perhaps even mention hiring a professional lawn care service.”

Test your soil

Testing your soil for nutrients and pH levels is a game-changer. Buy an at-home kit or send a sample to a local extension services office to find out exactly what your lawn needs.

Water properly

Water each area of your lawn three mornings per week for 20 to 30 minutes. “Lawns that receive consistent, deep watering tend to be greener and healthier than those that don’t,” says Walts.

Prune trees and bushes

If shade is the problem, prune back tree branches or switch to a more shade-tolerant grass species.

Slow-release fertilize

Use a slow-release nitrogen-blend fertilizer to keep your grass fed continuously throughout the season, and fertilize at recommended intervals. “Proper fertilization helps grass make the most of nutrients and store energy, keeping it lush and resilient,” says Walts. “Regular applications of organic products can also improve drought tolerance.”

Mow higher

If you’ve been mowing too short, now is a good time to raise your blade to that healthier height, which will ultimately encourage strong root growth, says Negodenko.

Aerate

Walts recommends aerating your lawn annually during peak growing seasons to loosen compacted soil and improve water and nutrient absorption. “This can lead to stronger, deeper roots and an overall healthier lawn. ”

Pest control

Keep an eye out for insects and lawn diseases, as they can steal nutrients and weaken your grass, says Walts. “Implementing a pest control program can help maintain your lawn’s health and keep it looking as vibrant as your neighbor’s,” he says.

Limit traffic and wear

Reducing foot traffic, especially in high-use areas, can help prevent patchy or worn-down spots, says Walts. “If needed, create designated walkways or play areas to keep the grass in its best shape,” he says.

About the Experts

Eduard Negodenko has been designing landscapes and providing lawn and garden expertise for more than seven years. He currently work at Avanti Landscaping in Toronto, Canada.
Ryan Walts is training manager and business coach at the fertilizer and weed control franchise Lawn Squad. He has 17 years of experience in turfgrass science and maintenance.

The post Why Is My Neighbor’s Lawn Greener Than Mine? appeared first on Family Handyman.

How Coffee Grounds Can Supercharge Your Plants

Jenna Clark — Fri, 11 Apr 2025 18:21:57 +0000

If you love gardening and have some extra coffee grounds around, you’ll be glad to know that those grounds can help boost your green thumb. Coffee grounds are really good for plants in some circumstances. They can easily be used for many reasons, from extra nourishment to pest control. Knowing how to incorporate them into your gardening routine is key to ensuring optimal plant and lawn health.

Whether you’ve been there and done that and are looking to enhance your current gardening regimen or are new to gardening and looking for the ground rules when using coffee beans, we’ve got you covered. Ahead, professors, horticulturists, master gardeners, and extension specialists weigh in on the nuances of the answer to the question “Are coffee grounds good for plants?” Additionally, they share best practices when it comes to using coffee grounds on different types of plants, lawns, and soils.

Are Coffee Grounds Good for Plants?

Coffee grounds can be good for plants depending on the type of coffee grounds used, the type of plant, and how the coffee grounds are used. That said, “There is a significant difference between fresh and used coffee grounds. Most of the nutritional benefits come from the fresh stuff, not the stuff you can get by the bucket from your local barista,” explains Jonathan Russell-Anelli, a senior lecturer and extension associate at Cornell University’s School of Integrative Plant Science.

Which plants are coffee grounds good for?

Although we’ve covered the basic answer to the question “Are coffee grounds good for plants?” it is important to know which plants (as only some prefer more acidic soil). Plants that benefit from coffee grounds include cabbage, soybeans, anthuriums as well as some other houseplants, root vegetables, and ericaceous plants such as azaleas and hydrangeas, adds Stephen Pryce Lea, the deputy executive director of horticulture at the Delaware Botanic Gardens.

What plants do not react well to coffee grounds?

As important as it is to know which plants react well to coffee grounds, it is equally important to be aware of the plants that may experience an adverse reaction. “Plants that prefer a more alkaline soil may not thrive as much with coffee grounds and may become stunted over time, ” explains Masterson. Barychko adds that these types of plants may also experience burns resulting from over-acidification, and nobody wants that. As far as specific plants go, Langelo notes that you should avoid placing coffee grounds on plants, including orchids, tomatoes, rosemary, lavender, cover, alfalfa, and century plants, to name a few.

Luke Gatiboni, Ph.D., a professor in the Department of Crop and Soil Sciences at North Carolina State University, recommends testing your soil and coffee grounds beforehand to avoid applying coffee grounds to plants that may not be as receptive to them or those already planted in acidic soil. Luckily for you, testing soil pH can easily be done using a strip kit or by sending your soil to a laboratory (although this might be a larger investment).

Are Coffee Grounds Good for the Lawn?

Daniel Barychko, a horticulturist at the Central Florida Zoo, notes that coffee grounds can be good for the lawn depending on how they’re used, the type of grass, and the soil pH. To be most favorable for a lawn, coffee grounds should be properly composted, explains Wendy Wilber, a Florida master gardener volunteer program coordinator and horticulture extension agent for the University of Florida IFAS. “[Coffee grounds] can be beneficial on lawns when used sparingly, improving soil health and providing a natural slow-release fertilizer,” adds Lea.

Coffee grounds can benefit the lawn by adding trace minerals such as nitrogen and phosphorus, adds Linda Langelo, a Colorado-based horticulturist and extension horticulture specialist at Colorado State University. However, you need to be careful to ensure your soils mineral levels are balanced to prevent the overuse or depletion of other trace minerals.

Why Are Coffee Grounds Good for Lawn/Plant Care?

According to Lea, “Coffee grounds add essential nutrients (such as nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus) back into the soil naturally, improve the soil structure, and help foster a healthy ecosystem for beneficial microorganisms and earthworms. They can also help control pests without the need for chemical treatments.”

How To Use Coffee Grounds for Plants/the Lawn?

In compost

Composting coffee grounds is one of the most effective ways to use them when it comes to plant and lawn care, as many lawns cannot handle the large quantities of caffeine contained directly in coffee grounds themselves. “If using it [coffee grounds] as compost, you can make compost as quickly as your piles can be finished,” explains Irish-Hanson. With this in mind, she adds that you should aim to keep your concentration of coffee to 20% or less (with between 10% and 20% as the ideal range) in your compost to create the healthiest mix.

“At my home for the past two years, I have been adding all my coffee grounds and vegetable waste into a composter that dries the coffee grounds and vegetables and breaks them down,” says Andrea Masterson, a horticulturist and collections manager at The Buffalo and Erie County Botanical Gardens. “I store this compost until spring, then I add it to the soil in my vegetable garden. Last year was the first year I did it and I believe it was very beneficial and helped create a good yield.”

Adding them to a worm bin

Barychko notes that one of the most advantageous ways to use coffee grounds is as part of a worm bin. “The earthworms can consume the grounds, break them down and add the nutrients to their “castings” which forms a very rich and nutrient-dense soil amendment that is safe to use without the worry of burning your plants or grass,” he adds.

As fertilizer

Although it is not recommended that coffee grounds be used as your main fertilizer source, depending on the circumstances of the lawn, you might be able to occasionally use them as a slow-release fertilizer. Mixing coffee grounds with other organic matter is a best practice when it comes to fertilizing soil.

As a soil amendment

Although coffee grounds can be used as a soil amendment, it can become costly. Wilber notes that when you mix composted coffee grounds into garden soil, it will enhance the soil’s overall structure and ability to hold nutrients.

What Not To Do When Using Coffee Grounds as Lawn Care

If you plan on using coffee grounds as lawn care, there are a couple of things you want to avoid. First and foremost, Langelo notes that you should not apply them directly onto your lawn as their caffeine can harm the microbes within the soil. Barychko adds that you don’t want to over-apply coffee grounds (or apply them in clumps) to a lawn as this may cause over-acidification and your lawn to experience unwanted holes. It is also a best practice to avoid applying coffee grounds directly onto seedlings as their high nitrogen content can prevent younger plants from properly germinating and growing, explains Lea.

Can coffee grounds hurt my lawn?

“If used excessively, coffee grounds can hurt your lawn as adding too much coffee grounds to your soil can create a compacted coffee layer, reducing air and water flow in the soil, leading to root suffocation and potentially harmful mold growth,” explains Lea.

How often should I use coffee grounds in my plants and lawn?

How often you should use coffee grounds in your plants and lawn will depend on several factors, including how you decide to use the coffee grounds, the climate, and the season. In many cases, using coffee grounds once a month is sufficient. “Using them too frequently can cause nitrogen overload, which could harm plants or grass. The best time to apply them is during the growing season, from early spring to mid-summer, when plants and lawns can take full advantage of the nutrients,” explains Lea.

However, the frequency can change if you’re using compost. Irish-Hanson notes that compost can be applied as needed and usually in the springtime if it’s part of a mulch combination. That said, Langelo recommends avoiding applying coffee grounds on lawns during the warmer months.

About the Experts

Jonathan Russell-Anelli is a senior lecturer and extension associate within the School of Integrative Plant Science at Cornell University. He has conducted and continues to research how the characteristics of soil change in urban environments influenced by humans. Furthermore, he has contributed to several publications covering soil and factors that impact growth.
Linda Langelo is a Colorado-based horticulturist with more than 20 years of industry experience. She serves as an extension horticulture specialist at Colorado State University and is the producer of The Relentless Gardener podcast.
Laura Irish-Hanson is a horticulture extension education at the University of Minnesota. Before her role as an extension educator, she taught classes on plant propagation at the university. She has experience using coffee grounds (making up no more than 10% volume) on plants as part of her vermicomposting under-sink set-up used on in-ground and larger houseplant pots.
Daniel Barychko has been a horticulturist at the Central Florida Zoo for three years. When not helping to care for the plants at the zoo, he is an active member of the Florida Native Plant Society.
Luke Gatiboni, Ph.D., is a professor within the Department of Crop and Soil Sciences and an extension specialist in soil fertility and nutrient management at North Carolina State University.
Andrea Masterson is a horticulturist and collections manager at The Buffalo and Erie County Botanical Gardens. With 10 years of experience, she works to maintain the 12-acre site which houses an arboretum and a multitude of plant collections.
Stephen Pryce Lea is the deputy executive director of Horticulture at the Delaware Botanic Gardens.
Wendy Wilber is a Florida master gardener volunteer program coordinator and horticulture extension agent for the University of Florida IFAS. With more than 20 years of industry experience and a master’s degree in horticultural sciences from the University of Florida, she is a specialist in all things landscaping.

Sources

Steven Fonte, Ph.D., an associate professor in the Department of Soil at Crop Sciences at Colorado State University; email interview, March 18, 2025.
Washington State University: “myths, miracles…or marketing Coffee grounds— will they perk up plants?” (2009)

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The Best Time to Prune Trees for Healthy Growth

Laurie M Nichols — Mon, 07 Apr 2025 21:10:41 +0000

Mature, healthy trees are among the most valuable assets on any residential property. After all, a fifty-year-old tree cannot easily be replaced. However, despite their size and strength, trees still need care to stay healthy and look their best. Pruning is a crucial part of tree maintenance, and it’s important to know when to prune trees and when to leave them alone.

While there are general pruning guidelines, the ideal timing will vary based on tree species and age. In this article, learn the best pruning times for your trees with expert advice from two horticultural experts.

Why Prune Trees?

“In the woods, trees do fine without us. In our landscapes, some trees benefit from regular pruning,” Suzanne DeJohn, horticulturalist at KidsGardening.org, says. Pruning helps preserve tree health, control shape and ensure safety.Without pruning, trees can become overcrowded and develop fungus from poor airflow or become overgrown. Pruning also removes dangerous dead or overhanging branches that may fall and cause damage. Failing to prune fruit trees can lead to reduced fruit production and disease.

Tools Needed to Prune Trees

Safety gear: Wear safety glasses and protective gloves when pruning trees with hand tools.
Bypass pruners/pruning shears: Ideal for trimming suckers and thin branches up to 3/4 inch thick.
Loppers: Longer handles mean better leverage to cut thicker branches up to 2-inch thick.
Pruning saw: A pruning saw with a curved or straight blade is best for branches thicker than 2 inches.
Pole Pruner: “Pole pruners help reach higher branches,” DeJohn says. They feature an extendable pole with a pruning saw or shears at the end.

When To Prune Most Trees

Late winter or early spring is a good time to prune most trees, including deciduous, evergreen and fruit trees, as this is their dormant season. “Dormant pruning” reduces stress on the tree and helps it recover before new growth emerges.

For deciduous trees, remove crowded or crossing branches to improve airflow and prune to shape. “Never remove more than 20 to 25 percent of branches in one season,” Samuel Schmitz, horticulture professor at Triton College, says. On young trees, prune offshoots and secondary trunks to encourage a strong main trunk.

For evergreens, pruning will mostly consist of removing any dead or diseased branches. Dormant prune lightly over several seasons to shape.

Avoid pruning any trees in fall, as it can expose the tree to diseases or stimulate new growth that may not survive winter. However, “It’s fine to remove dead or diseased wood at any time,” DeJohn says.

When to prune fruit trees

“Most fruit trees should be pruned in late winter, after the coldest temperature have passed but before the buds begin to swell and growth begins,” DeJohn says. “Sometimes, fruit trees are also lightly pruned in summer.”

When to prune flowering trees

For spring-blooming trees, prune right after they finish flowering. “If you wait too long to prune, you’ll remove the buds that produce the next year’s flowers,” DeJohn says.

Summer-blooming trees can be pruned in late winter to early spring before new growth begins. “They produce their flowers on the current season’s growth, so you won’t be removing any flower buds at that time,” DeJohn says.

How Often to Prune Most Trees

This will vary depending on the age and species of tree, but a general rule of thumb is every three to five years for most deciduous trees. “Larger trees may need to be pruned only as needed to remove dead branches or those that pose a hazard,” DeJohn says. Established evergreens often remove dead branches on their own and need less frequent pruning. Consider consulting with a certified arborist for tree-specific pruning recommendations.

How often to prune fruit trees

Fruit trees benefit from annual pruning in the late winter or early spring to remove dead branches and encourage new growth, as well as a light pruning in the summer for shaping. “Winter is best to do any structural or hard pruning,” Schmitz says. “Training and minor pruning can happen year-round.”

How often to prune flowering trees

When young, consider pruning flowering trees each year.”Young trees benefit from pruning to help guide their growth to the shape we desire,” DeJohn says. Once established, prune flowering trees when necessary to maintain shape or thin, crowded or crossing branches.

Pruning Timeline Tips

When to prune trees throughout the year:

Prune most trees from late December to February. During this time, remove dead branches, thin canopies, shape young trees and prune summer-flowering trees.
From March to May, prune spring-flowering trees after they bloom.
Late spring to early summer is for light, aesthetic pruning or removing suckers.
Avoid pruning during the hot summer months through fall, as trees can become stressed or diseased.

About the Experts

Samuel Schmitz is a full-time faculty instructor in the Horticulture Department at Triton College in Illinois. He was formerly Ground Operations Supervisor for Ball Horticultural Company for 16 years.
Suzanne DeJohn is a horticulturalist at KidsGardening.org, a national non-profit organization providing support to youth garden programs since 1982. Suzanne formerly worked for the nonprofit National Gardening Association’s Education Department as a writer and program promoter.

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Take Your Lawn to the Next Level With the Coolest New Shrubs

Luke Miller — Wed, 02 Apr 2025 21:35:08 +0000

Fire Ball Seedless® Burning Bush (Euonymus alatus)

Everyone loves the fiery red intensity of the foliage in fall, but burning bush is considered a pest in some areas. Enter Fire Ball Seedless, a new cultivar that is seedless, sterile and, most importantly, non-invasive. Developed by the Mountain Horticultural Crops Research Station in North Carolina, this burning bush cultivar is part of the Proven Winners® ColorChoice® collection. It has the durability and infernal-red autumnal foliage of burning bush without the risk of it spreading into wild areas and out-competing native plants.

Named 2025 Professional’s Choice Green Thumb award winner, Fireball grows 5 to 6 feet tall and wide and makes a fine screen or backdrop for a mixed border. USDA Hardiness Zones 4-8. Photo courtesy of Proven Winners ColorChoice Shrubs.

Paisley Pup® Doghobble (Leucothoe fontanesiana)

This underappreciated species goes by several names, including drooping leucothoe, fetterbush and mountain doghobble. Whatever you call it, you’ll appreciate this broadleaf evergreen for its handsome foliage and the array of green, cream, white, bronze and yellow hues. And as if that weren’t enough, it also features arching stems holding racemes of fragrant white flowers to delight both people and pollinators alike.

Paisley Pup is a low-growing cultivar, just 3 to 4 feet tall and 2 to 3 feet wide, so it can be used as a midrange plant in a mixed bed. It is shade-tolerant and deer-resistant. USDA Hardiness Zones 5-8. Photo courtesy of Proven Winners ColorChoice Shrubs.

Oso Easy En Fuego® Rose (Rosa spp.)

Oso Easy landscape roses have a reputation for living up to their name, for they are oh-so-easy to grow! En Fuego keeps the proud lineage going with its beauty, plus its adaptability to cold and hot climates and built-in disease resistance to black spot and powdery mildew. The large, intensely colorful flowers, set off against glossy dark green foliage, start out yellow and red before opening fully to an electric orange.

Part of Proven Winners® ColorChoice® collection, En Fuego matures at 3 to 4 feet tall, 18 in. wide and makes an excellent addition to a perennial garden or dwarf conifer bed. USDA Hardiness Zones 4-9. Photo courtesy of Proven Winners ColorChoice Shrubs.

Kodiak® Jet Black™ Diervilla (Diervilla x ‘SMNDSN’)

The Kodiak Diervilla line of Proven Winners ColorChoice shrubs has gained fans for its easygoing nature and ability to accept different lighting conditions. Homeowners also like the fall foliage and the bright flower clusters, although the latter are sometimes hard to see against the summer foliage.

Enter Kodiak Jet Black Diervilla, which features contrasting burgundy-black foliage that remains strikingly dark all season long, helping the small yellow flowers stand out. Kodiak Jet Black Diervilla grows 3 to 4 feet tall and wide and makes an excellent addition to shrub borders or to surround a deck. USDA Hardiness Zones 4-7. Photo courtesy of Proven Winners ColorChoice Shrubs.

Autumn Moonstruck® Azalea (Rhododendron hybrid ‘Roblezf’)

A repeat bloomer is always appreciated, but one with eye-catching foliage as well. It seems Encore® Azalea has hit another home run with Autumn Moonstruck, the first in this popular series of reblooming azaleas to offer variegated foliage. The emerald and chartreuse variegation has enough charm to carry the show all season—with or without the double white blooms, which appear in spring and then sporadically after that in summer and fall.

This azalea likes the sun, too, so it can be massed as a colorful hedge. It grows to 5 feet tall, 4 feet wide or kept smaller and grown in a pot. USDA Hardiness Zones 7-10. Photo courtesy of Encore Azaleas.

Golden Child® Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis ‘Mirjam’)

This is one arborvitae that refuses to blend into the background. This Monrovia introduction not only grows in the garden, but it also glows in the garden with finely cut foliage in bright hues of yellow and yellow-green that resist scorching in the sun. In winter, the foliage takes on a light bronze cast for even more variety. With a slow growth rate and compact mature size of 18 to 24 in. tall and wide, this globe-shaped evergreen makes a well-behaved addition to the garden. USDA Hardiness Zones 4-8. Photo courtesy of Monrovia.

Chateau® de Saumur Rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus ‘Minsyanlav02’)

Like its other rose of Sharon brethren, this shrub is fast-growing and full of colorful flowers in late summer. However, there is one major difference: this is the first in Monrovia’s popular Chateau series to feature fluffy, peony-like blooms with frilly center petals. The large violet-pink flowers cover stems from top to bottom for a long blooming season into fall.

Chateau de Saumur grows 5 to 6 feet tall and 4 feet wide and makes an excellent informal hedge or backdrop for shorter plants. USDA Hardiness Zones 5-9. Photo courtesy of Monrovia.

Seaside Serenade® Pebble Beach Hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla ‘SC-04-20’)

The newest member of Monrovia’s Seaside Serenade hydrangea collection, Pebble Beach boasts large mophead flowers—purple in acidic soil, raspberry pink in alkaline—spring through summer. Blooms, which have a hint of bright green color for an intriguing twist, are held on sturdy, dark red stems to resist weather.

Like others in the Seaside Serenade series, Pebble Beach has a compact, bushy growth habit, growing 3 to 4 feet tall and wide. It works well as a focal point in the garden, massed as an informal border or even grown in a container as an accent plant. Also, the blooms make excellent cut flowers in a vase. USDA Hardiness Zones 4-9. Photo courtesy of Monrovia.

Violet Mist® Chastetree (Vitex agnus-castus)

With a mature size of just 3 to 4 feet in height and width, Violet Mist from First Editions® is more compact than other varieties and can fit neatly into many smaller landscapes. It also reacts well to pruning and, since it blooms on new wood, can be trimmed back in spring to keep an even tighter habit—without jeopardizing the season’s floral show.

Speaking of which, the flowers on Violet Mist are a pollinator magnet, appearing in profusion in early summer and showing off their attractive blue-purple hues. Deadheading encourages reblooming. USDA Hardiness Zones 6-9. Photo courtesy of First Editions.

Bloombux® Blush Rhododendron (Rhododendron hybrid)

Here’s a colorful alternative to boring boxwood—and one less prone to winter damage, too. Growing just 18 to 24 in. tall, it’s a perfect option for an elegant low hedge. But rather than settling for a long season of greenery, Bloombux Blush offers something extra with a floral show worthy of rhododendrons.

The large, 3 to 4-in. wide blooms on this Bloomin’ Easy® introduction have a blush-pink hue when they appear in spring and are sure to please the eye while satisfying pollinators. USDA Hardiness Zone 5-9. Photo courtesy of Bloomin’ Easy.

Spice Cowboy™ Snowball Bush (Viburnum carlesii ‘SMNVCST’)

Spice Cowboy Snowball Bush combines visual appeal with fragrant blooms and seasonal color changes. This versatile shrub, available through Jackson & Perkins®, grows 6 to 10 feet tall and 4 to 5 feet wide, so it can be shaped into a small tree or grown as a dense hedge.

Large clusters of snowball-like flowers boast a spicy-sweet scent in spring, so consider placing the shrub near a patio, deck or other spot in the garden where you can appreciate this feature. Come fall, you can look forward to seeing the foliage turn fiery orange-red as a final act. Spice Cowboy is highly adaptable, thriving in most moist, well-drained soils. It is also deer-resistant. USDA Hardiness Zones 4-8. Photo courtesy of Proven Winners ColorChoice Shrubs.

Li’l Annie Oakleaf™ Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia ‘Oakann1588’)

Here’s a downsized version of the classic oakleaf hydrangea that’s a great fit for gardens of all sizes. While the North American native species grows 6 to 8 feet tall and wide, Li’l Annie oakleaf hydrangea has a more compact reach of 3 to 4 feet tall and 4 to 5 feet wide, making it more suitable for use as a foundation plant or midrange addition to a mixed bed.

Available from Star® Roses and Plants, the shrub has large, white flowers that age to pink and host many beneficial pollinators. As a bonus, the green foliage eventually turns burgundy for added drama in the fall garden. USDA Hardiness Zones 5-9.

Suntastic™ Pink Abelia (Abelia hybrid ‘Pink’)

This new and improved abelia from the Southern Living® Plant Collection is a compact shrub that adds oodles of color and texture without making a gardener raise a sweat. The brightly variegated foliage is a treat throughout the year, and the plant itself matures at just 2 to 3 feet tall and 3 to 5 feet wide, so it’s perfect for borders, foundations or even containers. Moreover, this water-wise beauty is heat tolerant and thrives in full sun. USDA Hardiness Zones 6-10. Photo courtesy of PlantHaven International, planthaven.com

Mop Top™ Butterfly Bush (Buddleia alternifolia)

With its weeping branches and compact growth habit, Mop Top brings a touch of elegance and grace to a garden. It’s not lacking in color, either, as this new shrub is full of fragrant lavender flowers from mid-spring to mid-summer, much to the delight of bees, butterflies and hummingbirds.

Mop Top stays manageable at 3 to 5 feet tall and wide, offering versatility for small garden spaces. This low-maintenance shrub, available through Jackson & Perkins®, has excellent drought tolerance and enhanced cold hardiness. It’s also sterile, so it won’t cause concern over self-seeding. USDA Hardiness Zones 4-8. Photo courtesy of Proven Winners ColorChoice Shrubs.

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The Truth About Using Salt to Eliminate Weeds

Karuna Eberl — Wed, 02 Apr 2025 18:48:26 +0000

When I lived in Florida, my yard was made from pea rock, so keeping up with weeding was a hassle. However, since I lived next to a waterway, I didn’t want to use chemicals that could harm aquatic life, so I considered killing the weeds with salt. That’s when a friend pointed out that historically, conquerors have used salt on their opponents’ agricultural fields to keep crops from growing. That made me wonder if it was truly something I should be doing to my own land.

“It is a myth that salt is a safe, natural alternative to chemical herbicides,” says turf specialist Bennett Barrier. “It’s a cheap shortcut, but in the long run, it will cause long-lasting damage to the soil and plants growing nearby, impacting biodiversity.”

Here’s what you need to know about killing weeds with salt and when, if ever, it’s a good solution.

Does Salt Kill Weeds?

Yes, high concentrations of salt kills weeds by drawing moisture out of their cells and interfering with their ability to uptake water and nutrients.

Does Salt Kill Weeds Permanently?

It depends on the amount of salt and what kind of plants you’re trying to kill, but in general, small amounts of salt tend to kill only the above-ground parts of the plant, not necessarily the roots. Because of that, salt works best on smaller, shallow-rooted weeds versus perennials like dandelions and thistles that have deeper roots, says lawn care expert Eduard Negodenko.

Can I Use Salt to Kill Weeds on My Lawn?

Yes, but it’s not a good idea since salt also kills beneficial plants and can damage your lawn, making it uneven and sickly looking, says home renovation expert Keith Sant. Salt also changes the chemistry of your soil and harms microbes that are important for maintaining soil health. If you have excess salt in your soil, nothing will be able to grow there again until rainwater gradually washes it away, which will also make it harder to renovate or re-sod the lawn.

If you do decide to use salt anyway, lawn care expert Rob Palmer recommends adding ingredients such as baking soda, vinegar and dish soap to make the mixture more effective. “Since salt is the main ingredient in baking soda, it can help control weeds when applied correctly,” he says. Vinegar’s acidity can further help dry out the target weeds, while dish soap helps the mixture stick to the leaves.

Can I Use Salt To Kill Weeds in My Driveway?

Yes, but use it sparingly. “Since you are dealing with hard, compacted surfaces like concrete, the salt will be more effective here without doing too much damage to surrounding plant life,” says Barrier. “But it will, nonetheless, still affect the soil beneath the driveway, especially if the salt is washed into any cracks or crevices, leading to future growth problems in those areas.”

Negodenko recommends pouring a 3:1 water-to-salt mixture into cracks in driveways. Only apply it during a dry time to avoid runoff into areas where plants are to be grown.

Also, beware of using excess de-icing salts in the winter, as the salt and other additives in those pose a significant threat to your lawn, soil and greater ecosystem health.

“Over time, it can build up in the soil, creating an inhospitable environment for plant growth,” says Palmer. “Certain turfgrasses, like tall fescue and perennial ryegrass, have a higher tolerance to salt exposure, while more sensitive varieties, such as Kentucky bluegrass, may suffer greater damage.”

As an alternative, Palmer recommends de-icers, including calcium magnesium acetate (CMA), sand, kitty litter, beet juice or brine solutions.

What’s the Best Alternative To Salt for Killing Weeds?

Some more sustainable alternatives to killing weeds with salt include:

Horticultural-grade vinegar, which is especially effective on tender and sprouting plants. “It’s great for killing weeds in no time, and is the fastest way to kill those plants,” says Negodenko.
Boiling water, which is best for weeds growing within cracks and gravel paths. “It is simple and straight to the point,” says Negodenko.
Pulling weeds by hand or with a weeding tool, which is best for plants with deeper roots.
Flame weeding with a propane torch, which won’t damage the surrounding soil.
Wood chips or straw mulch, which blocks sunlight and thus suppresses weed germination.
Organic weed barriers (refrain from plastic-based products, which also damage soil health).

“In severe cases, one could use something more preventive like a pre-emergent,” says Negodenko. For that, he recommends aerating the soil, over-seeding, then applying corn gluten meal. “It’s a great way to kill weeds and preserve a healthy lawn,” he says.

About the Experts

Rob Palmer is Brand President at the lawn care franchise Lawn Squad, and has been in the lawn care business for more than 30-years.
Eduard Negodenko has been designing landscapes and providing lawn and garden expertise for more than seven years. He currently work at Avanti Landscaping in Toronto, Canada.
Bennett Barrier has years of experience with lawn care, and is currently a turf specialist and CEO at DFW Turf Solutions.
Keith Sant is Founder and CEO of Kind House Buyers, based in Tacoma, Washington, and specializes in buying, renovating and selling highly damaged houses.

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10 DIY Pond, Fountain and Waterfall Projects That Will Transform Your Yard

noelle devoe — Tue, 01 Apr 2025 17:57:36 +0000

Peaceful Pond and Deck

Are you in need of a little serenity now? A reflecting pond is just the place to rest your gaze after a trying day. This pond and deck are unique, not only in appearance but also in building technique. Most ponds are free-form, informal shapes that have either soft or hard plastic liners dug into the ground. But for this homemade pond, we used simple wood walls to frame it and form the base for the surrounding deck. A single-piece rubber liner keeps the water in. And the garden berm that surrounds one end is practical and has a nice landscaping feature. We simply mounded the soil dug from the pond hole so we wouldn’t have to haul it away.

This homemade pond isn’t exactly a weekend project. In fact, even if you’re in great shape, you should expect to spend the better part of a long day just digging the hole and laying in the gravel footings. The good news is that the construction is simple and doesn’t require a bunch of expensive tools.

One-Day Mini Pond and Fountain

Build this compact, charming, inexpensive little pond and fountain in one day using simple off-the-shelf materials. This homemade water fountain will spruce up your yard and provide a pleasant place for you to sit and for neighborhood birds to get a drink and splash around a bit.

Pond in a Box

Build this simple, above-ground pond with a trellis and fountain on a weekend. The advantages of an above-ground patio waterfall are:

With this design, there’s practically none of the worst part of pond building — gut-busting digging. And that also means there’s no huge pile of dirt to get rid of.
Talk about instant gratification! Build the walls and trellis in the morning, assemble the pond in the afternoon, add the trim the next day, and then go buy goldfish!
Traditional in-ground ponds can be a drowning hazard for toddlers and pets, but this above-ground design reduces the risk.

Low-Maintenance Backyard Pond

A backyard pond with running water, floating plants and darting fish can make a bland space breathtaking. Keeping a patio waterfall attractive and trouble-free takes work, but with a little extra care at the planning and building stages, you can create a pond that’s almost maintenance-free.

Patio Pond

This freestanding pond-in-a-box features a place for water plants and planters for in-ground plants. Construction is easy for this homemade pond, and a brush-on rubber lining keeps the container watertight.

Pond with Waterfall

Add the magic of moving water to your backyard with a waterfall and pond. Preformed shells, rubber liners and off-the-shelf pumps and filters put the project’s costs and skill requirements within easy reach of any do-it-yourselfer to build a homemade water fountain. You’ll put in your share of sweat equity, busting sod and hauling stone for a patio waterfall. But when you’re done, you’ll have a landscape feature to enjoy for years.

Private Pond and Waterfall

A backyard pond doesn’t have to be big to have a big impact. This private pond is less than 6 feet long and just over 4 feet across. But with its striking stone surround and sparkling waterfall, it can become the centerpiece of any landscape. Build this small pond in as little as one weekend! This design is versatile, too. You can make the pond twice as large as this one or half the size. You can locate it on flat terrain or tuck the stone waterfall wall into a slope. Unlike most ponds, this one won’t leave you with a small mountain of soil to deal with—you can simply use the excavated soil to form a berm behind the waterfall wall.

Bamboo Waterfall

You don’t have to settle for some kitschy plastic-resin waterfall if you’re looking for a unique water feature. There’s a simple and elegant way to add a soothing waterfall to your backyard, and you don’t have to be particularly handy or have a shop full of tools. Follow these simple steps to build this bamboo sluice (in a single day) and a small pond to catch the water, complete with a pump and water plants.

Natural-Looking Artesian Fountain

If you’re looking for an eye-catching feature for your patio, deck or even front entry, this natural-looking fountain will do the trick. Designed around a special stone with a 1-in. hole drilled through it, water from the pump gurgles up through the hole and overflows the stone. To reduce maintenance, we eliminated the collection pond. A gravel-filled reservoir below collects the overflow for recirculation. Since no sunlight can reach the water in the reservoir and support algae growth, the water stays pristine.

Cast Concrete Fountain

Enjoy the splash and sparkle of water indoors or out—with minimal maintenance and expense. Learn how to build this fountain out of concrete. You’ll save several hundred dollars building this fountain yourself instead of buying it. So make a trip to your local home center to pick up the supplies, then follow these how-to steps to cast the fountain.

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Is Your House Too Humid for Your Plants?

Casey Clark — Wed, 26 Mar 2025 18:59:49 +0000

With spring upon us, it’s the perfect time to tend to a garden or even add some new houseplants to your collection (or start one). They can help bring a space to life, improve air quality, and potentially aid in stress relief. Whether you’re looking to introduce another snake plant or jade plant, it’s important to make sure your house is conducive to making your plants thrive, and one important aspect to consider is temperature. That said, you may be wondering, “Is my house too humid for plants?” That’s a valid question for both novice and experienced gardeners, and we have some insight that will help answer this question.

Ahead, we speak with plant and botany experts about how humidity affects plants and what you can do to help ensure your plants stay alive and healthy right now and in the future.

How Does Humidity Affect Plants?

Humidity is key to help your plants thrive as it affects how they breathe, drink and take in nutrients. “Too much humidity can lead to root rot, mold, or unhappy plants, while not enough leaves them thirsty and stressed,” says Stephanie Elhayani, founder and chief floral officer at Seed Floral.

Nobody wants unhappy plants and taking care of the humidity levels in your home is one way to help them thrive.

“When there is high humidity, plants take in less water in the roots as there is less water lost in the pores,” says Melvin Cubian, gardening expert and botanist at PlantIn app. “In contrast, low humidity pulls more water from the leaves and when the roots cannot replenish the loss of water, it results in browning.”

How Much Humidity Is Too Much Humidity for Plants?

The level of humidity that is ideal for plants will vary based on the type of plant. “Most plants like 40 to 60 percent humidity,” says Elhayani. “Above 70 to 80 percent, you risk mold and fungal issues, except for tropical beauties like ferns and orchids—they love it steamy.”

For example, plants like marble pothos, majesty palm, dracaena lemon line and calathea plants all thrive the best in environments with humidity levels between 40 to 60 percent.

According to Cubian, to maintain the balance between humidity and a healthy water intake in the roots, proper ventilation is recommended. “This can be achieved by observing proper plant spacing and pruning the dead leaves and redundant branches,” he tells Family Handyman.

How Can I Tell If My House Is Too Humid for Plants?

There are a few ways to tell if your house is too humid for plants that you’ll want to keep an eye out for.

First off, the leaves on your plant can tell you a lot about its overall health and well being. “If they are showing signs of fungal disease like a leaf spot or mold, then that likely means there is too much moisture,” says Teri Valenzuela, Natural Science Manager at Sunday.

Aside from the look of the plant, you’ll probably be able to feel it and see it in your home. “If an unusual odor is accompanied by a sticky or damp air feeling, then it’s likely that your house is too humid for plants,” says Cubian.

Another way to tell if your house is too humid for plants is if you notice moldy soil and pots or mushy roots, according to Elhayani.

How To Make My House Less Humid for Plants

Luckily, there are ways to make your house less humid for plants if you think humidity is an issue.

First, and most importantly, you want to make sure your home has proper and adequate ventilation. “Cracking a window or running a regular or exhaust fan in humid rooms can help get airflow going,” says Valenzuela. “Additionally, investing in an energy-efficient dehumidifier can be helpful to pull extra moisture from the air, especially in humid climates.”

Alongside better ventilation, you’ll want to make sure your plants are placed a decent amount apart. It’s important to give them breathing room, especially around the leaves and stems, according to Cubian.

If you’re still having trouble getting the humidity levels just right, then you may also want to consider investing in a hygrometer which measures moisture content, or humidity, in a space. This is an easier way to get a better read on humidity levels so you can try to adjust your environment and plants accordingly.

About the Experts

Stephanie Elhayani, founder and chief floral officer at Seed Floral in West Hollywood, CA.; email interview, March 23, 2025
Teri Valenzuela, Natural Science Manager at Sunday; email interview, March 21, 2025
Melvin Cubian, gardening expert and botanist at PlantIn app; email interview, March 20, 2025

Sources

“DripWorks: 11 Best High Humidity Plants for Your Homes” (2024)

The post Is Your House Too Humid for Your Plants? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Is Bleach as a Weed Killer a Good or Bad Idea? Experts Weigh In

Chris Deziel — Mon, 24 Mar 2025 21:25:52 +0000

Every gardener faces the same dilemma: How to remove weeds while expending the least amount of effort and avoiding damage to desirable plants. One possible solution is to kill weeds with bleach, and at first glance, that’s an approach with promise. Bleach is a powerful disinfectant that can kill mold and disinfect pool water, so it should be able to make short work of weeds by poisoning their roots, right?

The related question, however, is whether bleach is safe for the rest of the garden. Not according to turfgrass management expert Ryan Walts, who says: “Using bleach is strongly discouraged. It will likely damage the surrounding soil, harming neighboring plants and making it unsuitable for most plants to grow back in that area for a long time.” Lawn expert Chrissie Handley agrees, and so does gardening enthusiast Harry Lloyd.

In this post, we’ll explain why bleach should not be used to kill weeds on your lawn or in your garden and explore some alternative weed control methods.

Does Bleach Kill Weeds?

“Bleach’s harsh chemical nature makes it quite effective at killing weeds quickly,” says Handley. “It damages their cells and shuts off moisture absorption, which kills the plant.” Common household bleach is a solution of sodium hypochlorite (NaClO), which breaks down in the soil to release salt (sodium chloride or NaCl), water (H₂O) and chlorinated organic compounds. By attaching to organic compounds, chlorine essentially neutralizes them, which is great for pool sanitation but not so good for soil health.

Moreover, salt in the soil affects the ability of roots to absorb moisture. Think about what would happen if you drank a glass of seawater. Rather than quenching your thirst, it would make you more thirsty. That’s pretty much what happens to plants. Unable to absorb moisture from the soil, the roots shrivel, and the plants wither and die.

Does Bleach Kill Weeds Permanently?

This depends on a number of factors:

Concentration of the bleach solution: In an effort to prevent damage to desirable plants, some gardeners dilute bleach in a spray bottle. But if the concentration is too low, weeds may suffer only temporary damage and grow back.
Depth of the roots: Some weeds, such as dandelions and thistles, have very deep roots that may not be affected unless you soak the soil with the bleach solution. A surface application won’t cut it for such species.
Annuals vs. perennials: Annual weeds tend to have shallow roots, which makes them likely to be permanently eliminated by bleach application. Perennials, on the other hand, have hardier roots that grow deeper. They may wither after application but can grow back later in the year or next year.

Handley has this advice for the effective use of bleach for weed control: “You should apply it directly to the weed and re-apply often for the best results, as it makes sure the plant is fully dead and has no possibility of growing back.”

Should I Use Bleach to Kill Weeds on My Lawn?

While bleach does kill weeds, the more important question is whether you should, and the experts I interviewed all agree that the answer is no.

“I understand the temptation, but using bleach on weeds is a very bad idea,” says Lloyd. “Bleach does kill weeds, but it also harms everything else it touches, and although you think you’re directing it just at the root of the weed — it’ll spread to your soil.”

Bleach can kill earthworms, insects and microorganisms vital for soil health. It can also spread to the roots of nearby desirable plants, either causing disease or killing them outright.

“Bleach can leave residue behind in the soil and make the soil pH more alkaline, which can affect the growth of plants in the surrounding area,” says Handley. To amplify this concern, Walts adds that it can make the soil unsuitable for most plants to grow back in that area for a long time.

DIY weed control methods

“Baking soda is a much better DIY alternative,” says Walts. He recommends either applying it directly from the box or mixing it with water. Lloyd adds that you should also consider things like vinegar-based weed sprays, boiling water, or even just pulling them out by hand.

If you’re going to use bleach anyway, here’s Handley’s advice: “Try to use it in a targeted and controlled manner, only applying small amounts to the weed directly. Some people use a spray bottle and dilute the solution to try and combat the strength and just re-apply more often.”

Can I Use Bleach To Kill Weeds in My Driveway?

If weeds grow through the cracks in your driveway, you don’t have to worry about harming nearby plants or the soil under the driveway. That makes bleach an effective control method because not only will it kill the weeds, it will render the soil inhospitable for new ones. If you use this method, make a strong bleach solution — the stronger, the better — and be sure to soak the weeds thoroughly to be sure the bleach gets to the roots.

About the Experts

Ryan Walts is a training manager and business coach at Lawn Squad, a franchise lawn care business based in Columbia, MD.
Harry Lloyd is a passionate gardener and waste management expert at HIPPO, a rubbish removal service based in the UK.
Chrissie Handley is a lawn care specialist and gardening expert providing tailored advice on laying turf, garden maintenance and general gardening tips for Online Turf — a turf, soil and compost company based in Lancashire, UK.

The post Is Bleach as a Weed Killer a Good or Bad Idea? Experts Weigh In appeared first on Family Handyman.

Why Grass Won’t Grow Under Your Trees—and How to Fix It

Laurie M Nichols — Tue, 11 Mar 2025 21:07:21 +0000

Growing grass can be a time-consuming, expensive process that is made particularly more difficult under trees. I’m always amazed when I see thick, green grass growing right up to a tree in a golf course or public park. It makes me wonder, “Why can’t I grow grass under my trees?”

The answer isn’t so simple, as there are many reasons it’s such a challenge. If you’re wondering why grass won’t grow under your trees, read on for our troubleshooting guide and practical solutions from two lawn care experts Joe Churchill from Reinders and Ryan Mange from CMS Landscaping.

Why Won’t Grass Grow Around My Trees?

The ground beneath a tree is not an ideal environment for grass to grow. It’s shady, the soil is often compacted or nutrient-deficient and root systems have to compete with trees for resources. “Grass growing under tree canopies is not a practice that is natural for either the grass or the tree,” Mange says. Here are some reasons why:

Not enough sunlight

Grass requires at least four hours of sunlight per day to stay alive, but most do best with six to eight. Tree branches and leaves can create dense shade beneath them, making it difficult for grass to grow.

Solutions: Choose a shade-tolerant grass variety like a fine fescue blend. Prune tree branches to allow more sunlight to reach the grass. “Raise the canopy of the tree by selectively removing lower branches at the bottom of your trees,” Churchill says. “If it’s a heavy leaf canopy, you may have to throw in the towel and consider ground covers that do well in heavy shade.”

Compacted soil

The soil around trees often gets compacted by foot traffic and lawn care equipment, making it difficult for grass to take hold and grow. “Trying to force grass growth in areas with poor soils is always a recipe for disappointment,” Mange says.

Solutions: Rent a plug aerator to aerate the soil under trees. Also, try to reduce foot traffic and use different mowing patterns when cutting your lawn.

Acidic soil

The soil under pine trees often becomes acidic from pine needles dropping and decaying into it. Grass seed prefers a neutral pH and won’t grow in high-acid soil.

Solutions: Keep pine needles cleaned up below the tree and add lime to the soil, reducing the pH.

Dry soil

Deeper, more prolific tree roots quickly absorb rainfall and water from irrigation systems. This can leave the soil under trees too dry to support grass.

Solutions: “Manage moisture under trees by adding additional water over and above what is supplied by irrigation,” Churchill says. Deep and infrequent watering is the most effective.

Competing for nutrients

When planted so near a tree, grass can lose the competition for soil nutrients. “Trees are very good at outcompeting grass for water, nutrients and sunlight,” Mange says. “[They] have evolved to be very adept at discouraging neighboring plants.”

Solutions: Consider giving the tree additional fertilizer to free up soil nutrients for the grass. Top-dress the lawn with a light layer of organic compost, or try a slow-release nitrogen fertilizer.

FAQ

What should I put around my trees to make grass grow?

To help grass grow, you can put compost, lime and shade-tolerant grass around your trees. Lime neutralizes acidic soil to a level conducive to grass. Shade-tolerant grass seed has the best chance of growing into a healthy lawn. Amend the soil with compost to add the nutrients grass needs to grow.

Should I consider artificial grass around my trees?

Artificial grass can be an option around a tree, as long as it is designed to allow rainwater to reach the tree’s roots. Avoid installing artificial grass at the base of young trees to avoid suffocating developing root systems. Add a ring of mulch around the tree base first. Artificial grass under trees does require maintenance, as leaves and debris will stain if left to decay for too long.

About the Experts

Joe Churchill is a Senior Turf Specialist with Wisconsin-based Reinders, a major distributor of lawn care products in the Midwest. He has over 25 years of experience in the turfgrass industry, is certified in Turfgrass Management with a B.A. in Geography and Horticulture from the University of Minnesota.
Ryan Mange is a Lawn/Plant Health Manager at CMS Landscaping, a full-service lawn care and irrigation company in Holyoke, Massachusetts. He is also an International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) Certified Arborist.

The post Why Grass Won’t Grow Under Your Trees—and How to Fix It appeared first on Family Handyman.

Lawn Watering Tips for Yards With Lots of Trees

Chris Deziel — Fri, 07 Mar 2025 16:26:17 +0000

A yard with many trees presents both blessings and problems, and a blessing in one location can be a problem in another. Consider, for instance, the shade that trees provide: That’s a blessing in a hot area, where the trees absorb the sun’s energy and help keep everything cooler, but it’s a problem in a cool locale where every bit of sunlight is precious.

On the blessing side, trees provide natural habitats for birds and wildlife. Still, on the problematic side, they litter the yard with leaves and other detritus (depending on the species), and they can actually be hazardous in high winds. When one of the redwoods or Douglas first in my neighborhood drops a branch or blows over during a storm, it can cause a lot of damage and potentially even loss of life. Nevertheless, life is better with trees, and sometimes it’s even better with lots of them.

If you have a lawn in a yard with lots of trees, you have to consider how to approach water competition, and every situation is different. I spoke with two lawn experts from sunny California and one from the not-so-sunny UK and found that much depends on climate as well as the age, health and species of the trees and grass. Read on to find out more.

Does Your Lawn Need More Water If You Have Lots of Trees?

Two California lawn care experts, Steven Corcoran and Ward Dilmore, agreed that — generally speaking — having a lot of trees in your yard does not increase the water needs of the grass. In fact, it might be just the opposite, as Corcoran explained: “Sometimes having a lot of trees can actually decrease watering needs because the shade provided by the trees helps minimize how much water your grass needs.”

Speaking from the other side of the Pond, British lawn care specialist and gardening expert Angelika Zaber had this take: “Trees can end up competing with your grass for water as they draw a significant amount of moisture from the soil. So, to make sure that this does not result in your lawn going yellow or patchy, it is important to water your lawn more, especially in dry periods.”

A good reason for these differing opinions is the types of grass that grow in these two different climates. The species that thrive in California are warm-season, drought-resistant varieties that need less water than the cool-season varieties more common in the British Isles.

Other factors that affect the water needs of grass growing in a yard with lots of trees include:

Tree species

Some trees will compete more strongly for available water than others. “Palm trees or other trees that take up a lot of water may have an effect on a surrounding lawns water needs,” explains Dilmore.

Soil conditions

The composition of the soil determines how well it holds water. Soil with a high clay content drains more slowly than sandy or loamy soil. If the soil drains poorly, you should definitely give your lawn less water.

Watering practices

Grass roots seldom reach deeper than six inches into the ground and get the most benefit from sprinklers or hand watering with a hose. Tree roots reach much deeper. “Lawns do best with spray irrigation, and trees and shrubs should be on drip irrigation,” says Dilmore.

How To Water a Lawn With A Lot of Trees

Water grass deeply, about once or twice a week, to ensure the water reaches the roots.
Water trees separately using drip irrigation or by soaking with a hose. When using drip, choose emitters with a sufficient flow rate, and if you automate the drip system, set watering time and frequency according to the needs of the tree and the weather. Water the grass with sprinklers.
Scarify and aerate your lawn at regular intervals — about once or twice a year. “This will help to reduce compaction from tree roots and increase the lawn’s ability to absorb air, water, and nutrients,” says Zaber.
Protect tree trunks from sprinkler spray. Otherwise, says Dilmore, rotting can occur, which causes disease and invites pests.

FAQ

Can a small lawn have too many trees?

All the experts I interviewed agree on this question, and the answer is yes. Corcoran expresses the consensus by saying: “Roots can fight each other for nutrients or damage each other underground, and those roots can also go on to cause extensive damage to the yard.”

However, Dilmore points out that tree roots grow deep and shouldn’t have much effect in grass roots, which are much shallower. The real danger is the overabundance of shade, which can stunt the growth of grass and cause browned-out areas where it is dead or dying.

“The general advice,” says Zaber, “is to plant trees two meters (six feet) apart, but depending on your vision, some people plant them anywhere from one to five meters (three to 16 feet) apart.”

About the Experts

Steve Corcoran is the CEO of Lawn Love, a lawn care service based in Southern California.
Angelika Zaber is a lawn care specialist and Gardening Expert working for Online Turf, a turf, seed, and soil e-commerce company based in the UK.
Ward Dilmore is the founder of Petrus, a premier luxury estate landscaping company based in California’s Bay Area.

The post Lawn Watering Tips for Yards With Lots of Trees appeared first on Family Handyman.

Here Are the 11 Best New Flowers for Your 2025 Garden

Luke Miller — Mon, 10 Feb 2025 17:18:01 +0000

Dahlia Black Forest Ruby

Red flowers are always captivating in the garden, but when contrasted against dark, almost black foliage, the effect is particularly striking. This seed-grown dahlia is aptly named Black Forest Ruby because it is indeed a horticultural “gem.” Featuring a multitude of colorful semi-double to double blooms 2 ½ to 3 ½ in. wide, the plant is sturdy enough to stand upright without staking. Black Forest Ruby matures at 20 to 27 in. tall and 18 to 20 in. wide. AAS judges applauded this annual event for its neat habit, clean, disease-free foliage, and ability to stand up to heat and drought.

Dianthus Interspecific Capitán Magnifica

Dianthus often favors cool weather, but this 2025 AAS winner was bred with greater heat tolerance than traditional dianthus varieties. As a result, it sails smoothly through summer’s heat, continuing to grow and bloom if deadheaded. Capitán™ Magnifica dianthus features beautiful pink flowers with light pink edging atop long stems that are perfect for bouquets. It grows about 12 to 18 inches tall and wide and is hardy to USDA Zone 7 or can be grown as an annual. Judges liked the two-tone color of the flowers, the clean foliage and the adaptability of the plant. One noted, “Even in the horrible heat, the plants kept blooming their heads off and only started to give out a little at the beginning of September when it was very hot and dry!”

Marigold Mango Tango

Marigolds are capturing the hearts of gardeners as fail-safe annuals with bright colors and easygoing dispositions. Mango Tango deepens the attraction with stunning yellow and red bicolor flowers that look like Mother Nature hit the saturation button a few extra times. In keeping with the marigold’s reputation, the Mango Tango has a long flowering period from summer to frost for an eye-catching display that lasts and lasts. Plants reach 8 to 10 inches tall, making them suitable for use in containers and in front of borders.

One AAS judge applauded the compact, mounding habit and especially the “great flower power,” explaining that “flowers have more saturated colors” with “really nice deep red and yellow flower petals.”

Nasturtium Baby Series

Good things apparently happen in threes. At least that’s the case with the three nasturtiums that were named AAS Award Winners for 2025. They feature new colors in the popular Baby series of nasturtiums: petite-flowered, mounding varieties ideal for containers and small-space gardens. All have compact habits, about 1 foot tall and 10 inches wide, so flowers tend to flop less and remain upright and highly visible against the dark green foliage. Baby Gold has intense golden yellow flowers that resist fading. Baby Red has rich red flowers. And Baby Yellow boasts soft yellow blooms. Flowers in the Baby series are tolerant of heat, drought, cold, wind and rain.

Petunia Dekko Maxx Pink

Everyone loves petunias for their showy trumpet-shaped flowers — as long as the weather doesn’t get in the way. But Dekko Maxx Pink flowers are resilient enough to resist being beaten down by heavy rain and inclement weather. The vibrant pink flowers feature dark-pink throats and hold their color well. Dekko Max Pink grows 8 to 12 inches tall and 2 to 3 feet wide, keeping a nice habit all season.

Petunia Shake Raspberry F1

How do you describe the color of Petunia Shake Raspberry? Well, it has been described as looking like “a blended raspberry milkshake swirled with lemon-lime green sorbet.” Better yet, Petunia Shake Raspberry is a superior performer with blooms that won’t melt away in the summer heat. And if that’s not enough, this 2025 AAS award winner has a naturally compact habit, just 5 to 8 inches tall and 8 to 10 inches wide. One judge noted the striking color contrast between raspberry and lime shading, saying the “flower color stands out…as more eye-catching and unique.” Others lauded the compact, well-contained habit and abundant blooms.

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Snapdragon DoubleShot Yellow Red Heart F1

From the stunning flowers held on upright stems to the candy-like fragrance, this is a snapdragon you’ll want in your spring garden. And summer garden. That’s because this cool-season stalwart blooms early and continues to hold up through the heat of summer. Befitting the name, the soft-yellow tubular flowers feature heart-red throats for an intriguing two-tone effect. AAS Judges complimented DoubleShot Yellow Red Heart for the vibrant colors and long-lasting flowers, as well as the plant’s healthy disposition. It grows 18 to 20 inches tall and 6 to 8 inches wide.

Zinnia Zydeco Fire

Fiery orange color is front and center on this midsize zinnia, which features overly large, fully double flowers on sturdy stems needing no support. Blooming summer to frost, Zydeco features long-lasting blooms on disease-resistant foliage and looks particularly good when massed. It reaches 18 to 22 inches tall and 10 to 12 inches wide. “A winner from start to finish,” commented one AAS judge. “Bloomed quickly and until frost with consistently double, large flowers. Plants stayed healthy and compact the whole season.”

Zinnia Crestar Mix

Here’s a zinnia mix that is all about offering something out of the ordinary. Zinnia Crestar Mix offers highly distinctive semi-double blooms with a pronounced central disc, mimicking those of the perennial pincushion flower (Scabiosa). Plants are robust, even in the heat and humidity of summer, and they look particularly good when massed. This award-winning varietal mix gives you a range of colors—pink, orange, red, white, peach and yellow—for a stunning display all summer long. Noted one judge: “Flower quality is an improvement. Plants produced bright, colorful double blooms over a long growing season and retained a more compact plant and higher bloom quality than either comparison.” Plants reach 18 to 23 inches tall and about 5 inches wide.

Vinca Sphere Polkadot

With its compact, rounded habit, this new vinca has a neat, uniform way of displaying flowers all summer long. This fast-growing annual features small, sparkling white blooms with deep red centers set against attractive glossy foliage with excellent disease resistance. Vinca Sphere Polkadot does well in hot, dry conditions and stands up to heavy rains. “Smaller flowers make this entry perform much better than [comparison plants] after a storm,” noted one judge. “With projections forecasting that rains will decrease in frequency and increase in ferocity, this might be the vinca of the future! Very uniform and held up well through the season.” Use it along walkways and in borders or containers. It matures at about 11 inches tall and 5 to 7 inches wide.

Celosia Flamma Pink

This AAS award winner is a semi-dwarf variety with eye-popping pink “flames” for flowers. They’re held upright on bushy, compact plants and augmented by secondary flowerheads for even more oomph. In fact, judges praised Celosia Flamma Pink for its flower-filled, multi-branched habit. It all adds up to a striking annual with vibrant, long-lasting blooms for the garden or in cut-flower arrangements. Celosia Flamma Pink thrives even in hot, humid conditions, delivering continuous visual interest. “Entry held up much longer and looked great,” said one judge. “Perfect for bedding or cutting.” It reaches 14 to 18 inches tall and 7 to 9 inches wide.

The post Here Are the 11 Best New Flowers for Your 2025 Garden appeared first on Family Handyman.

Popular Lawn Mower Brand Recalls 39,000 Units Over Engine Defect

noelle devoe — Mon, 06 Jan 2025 21:39:02 +0000

If you’re a John Deere lawn mower owner, a recent recall impacting certain ZTrak Zero Turn Mower models will be of great concern to you, as it concerns potential safety risks. The issue involves the Kawasaki motors within the mowers, which have a defect that could pose a fire hazard during use or even when the mower is stored.

While no injuries have been reported, some worrying incidents linked to this defect have occurred, making it essential to act if your mower is affected. Read on to find out which models are included in the recall and how to handle the situation if you’re impacted.

What John Deere Mowers Are Being Recalled?

John Deere is recalling about 39,000 of its ZTrak Zero Turn Mowers with model numbers Z720E, Z730M, Z740R and Z760R. John Deere will contact all known purchasers of the impacted mowers directly.

The serial numbers for the impacted models, which will be located on the right side of the machine near the rear tire, are listed below:

Model Z720E
- Start Serial Number: 1TC720E****010001
- End Serial Number: 1TC720E****080657
Model Z730M
- Start Serial Number: 1TC730M****010001
- End Serial Number: 1TC730M****080574
Model Z740R
- Start Serial Number: 1TC740R****010001
- End Serial Number: 1TC740R****080462
Model Z760R
- Start Serial Number: 1TC760R****080001
- End Serial Number: 1TC760R****080339

Why Are These Mowers Being Recalled?

These mowers are being recalled because the Kawasaki engines within them are defective. According to the Consumer Product Safety Commission recall brief dated Jan. 2, “The voltage regulator in the mower’s engine can fail during use or while the product is being stored, causing the engine to overheat, posing fire and burn hazards.”

Kawasaki Motors reports five fires and 26 instances of melting and/or smoking connected to this issue, but no injuries have been reported.

What To Do If Your Mower Is Recalled

If your mower is affected by this recall, you should contact an authorized John Deere dealer immediately to set up a free repair appointment. You can contact Deere & Company for more information through their customer service line (800-537-8233).

Source

CPSC.org: “Kawasaki Motors USA Recalls John Deere ZTrak Zero Turn Mowers with Kawasaki Engines Due to Fire and Burn Hazards”

8 Must-Know Tips to Drought-Proof Your Lawn

Laurie M Nichols — Fri, 06 Dec 2024 18:08:28 +0000

Plant a Drought-Tolerant Grass

One effective way to drought-proof your lawn is by choosing drought-tolerant grass varieties. In warm climates, grasses like Zoysia, Bermuda, and Buffalo thrive on minimal water. For cooler regions, Tall Fescue and Fine Fescue are resilient to both drought and cold. These grasses are perfect for dry spells and require less water than other varieties.

Increase Mower Height

Heading into a drought with taller grass will help it survive, so keep your mower deck between 3 to 3 1/2 inches when cutting. Taller grass shades the soil, protects roots from extreme temperatures and improves moisture retention. It also encourages deeper root growth, helping the lawn access water deeper in the soil. If you’re currently in a drought, avoid mowing if possible to minimize stress on the grass.

Water Deeply and Less Often

Though it may seem counterintuitive, watering less often but more deeply actually benefits your lawn. “That will train grass roots to grow deeper into the soil looking for water,” Churchill says. Overwatered lawns develop shallow root systems, which are more vulnerable during extended dry spells.

Instead of setting your automatic sprinkler to run every day, try adjusting it to every three or four days. “Let the ground dry out some, your lawn will actually thank you for it,” Churchill says.

Fertilize Properly

Fertilizing your lawn at the right times helps develop deeper, stronger roots for better drought resistance. Start in spring with a balanced fertilizer to promote early root growth. Avoid fertilizing during peak summer to prevent heat stress. After the peak of summer heat, apply a fertilizer with moderate nitrogen and higher potassium to help grass conserve water, resist stress and grow stronger roots, which are crucial for surviving late-summer or fall droughts.

Plant Trees

Planting a few trees to provide natural shade can go a long way toward drought-proofing your lawn. The shade helps protect grass from intense sun, lowering soil temperatures and improving moisture retention. Trees also serve as windbreaks, shielding your lawn from drying winds during dry spells.

Overall, trees are a low-maintenance, natural solution to conserve moisture and enhance your lawn’s drought resilience.

Use Soil Moisture Sensors

If drought-proofing your lawn is the goal, avoid watering on a set routine. Instead, consider factors like grass type, rainfall, air temperatures, soil types and wind speeds before deciding to water.

To simplify this process, Churchill recommends relying on irrigation technology. “The best way to determine if and when your lawn needs water is to install moisture sensors in the soil just under the lawn surface,” he says. These sensors activate sprinklers only when needed, promoting optimal root growth and health.

Mulch Lawn Clippings

Instead of bagging grass clippings, mulch them back onto the lawn to help drought-proof your yard. A thin layer of mulched clippings regulates soil temperatures, improves moisture retention and adds organic matter to the soil. This helps conserve water and enriches the soil with nutrients, promoting a healthier, more resilient lawn. However, if your lawn is very overgrown, avoid mulching, as thick clippings can create a mat that may harm the grass.

Consider Lawn Alternatives

If you live in a dry, drought-prone area, consider lawn alternatives to conserve water and reduce maintenance. Xeriscaping involves replacing traditional grass with drought-tolerant native plants that can survive on minimal water.

Instead of grass, you can use bushes, shrubs, and rock landscaping to create a beautiful, low-water landscape. Additionally, artificial turf has come a long way in both appearance and durability, offering a realistic grass look without the need for irrigation or regular upkeep.

About the Expert

Joe Churchill is a Senior Turf Specialist for Reinders, a major distributor of lawn care products throughout the Midwest. Churchill is certified in Turf Management and has over 25 years of experience in the turfgrass industry.

The post 8 Must-Know Tips to Drought-Proof Your Lawn appeared first on Family Handyman.

I Tried the New Battery-Powered Toro Leaf Blower, and Here’s How It Went

Tyler Graham — Tue, 19 Nov 2024 16:37:19 +0000

I tried the all-new Toro leaf blower—the Toro 60-volt Max 900-CFM 165-MPH leaf blower, to be exact—and I was (literally) blown away. This was my first experience with the Toro leaf blower, and I am quite impressed.

I have used dozens of leaf blowers in my day and can confidently say I’ve experienced a wide range of performances from blowers. I started my leaf blower journey with the classic handheld Stihl BG86C blower. Since then, I have personally owned and tested five handheld gas blowers, nine backpack leaf blowers (both battery and gas), three handheld corded electric leaf blowers, and 11 handheld battery-powered blowers.

What Is the Battery-Powered Toro Leaf Blower?

When Toro designed their new battery leaf blower, we were shocked to see how much thought went into the design and the performance. You can easily tell that the team that pulled this blower together included people like me, who have used dozens of blowers and knew that Toro needed to push the envelope to stay competitive in the battery-powered leaf blower space.

I admit that I was skeptical when I first received this blower. Toro, a brand with an amazing reputation for providing some of the most powerful zero-turn mowers, has long been known for its success with golf course management tools and a wide range of commercial products. However, they have only recently begun to dip their toes in the battery-powered space, starting with their classic lawnmowers, which I have come to know and love.

TYLER GRAHAM FOR FAMILY HANDYMAN

I Tried It

Toro Flex-Force 60-volt Max 900-CFM 165-MPH Battery Handheld Leaf Blower

Toro Leaf Blower Features

The blower boasts a whopping 900 CFM (cubic feet per minute) and 165 MPH air speed, both of which are at the top of the game in the leaf blower world. You can reach the maximum airspeed by using the “Turbo” button, which is meant for temporary blasts of air that help remove wet leaves and grass from surfaces.

This blower also comes with a concentrated nozzle, which helps further focus air and increase overall air speed for targeted clean-up. The Toro battery-powered blower also comes with several easy-to-control measures, including a textured grip, a well-balanced body, variable speed and cruise control so that you don’t tire out your hand, and an aggressive design that helps hold the blower down and forward.

You can use the 60-volt battery on the Toro leaf blower on other 60V Max products from Toro, which saves you money on buying new batteries for these tools in the long run. As Toro continues to build out the 60V Max lineup, this can result in huge savings for the average homeowner who doesn’t have to buy a new battery with each tool.

How I Tested the Toro Leaf Blower

Assembly

The new Toro battery-powered leaf blower was very simple to put together. It comes in two or three pieces that easily snap together. I quickly snapped the nozzle onto the base of the blower and excitedly rushed out the door to start eviscerating leaves.

Job Site Test (Commercial Landscaping)

I used the Toro battery-powered blower on the job site first. Having recently re-started a landscaping company, I had about eight lawns back-to-back on my first day with the Toro blower. I was excited to see how it would perform relative to other handheld battery blowers. My first stop was mowing my friend Chase’s house. He lives in a nice neighborhood with lots that are about ¼ acre or less.

This presented the ideal opportunity to see how the Toro blower would perform on a typical lawn. Another positive of using the battery-powered Toro blower is that Chase has two small kids that I knew napped at various points throughout the day. My gas-powered backpack blower could wake the dead with its high noise levels, so having an electric tool was great for making sure I could maneuver around their home without waking the kids.

I will also caution that most handheld battery leaf blowers aren’t used for commercial landscaping purposes. They aren’t designed to last all day, and I knew that going into this round of testing. Other blowers, including electric ones, are designed to go with you on the job site. Toro designed this blower for residential homeowners looking to crush leaves and debris in their backyard, put the battery back on the charger and get on with their life. That doesn’t mean I am not going to push the blower to its limits and use it however I can.

Home Test

I used the Toro on my yard after the first time mowed again after a week straight of rainfall here in middle Tennessee. The grass clippings were still a bit moist. If you have ever used a leaf blower after mowing a moist lawn, you will understand that this situation is headache-inducing. Wet grass sticks to concrete like nothing you have ever seen. In order to get it off, you generally have to either wait until it dries, use a push broom, or have a blower that can somehow lift it off of the concrete.

Most leaf blowers put out about 400-500 CFM. Even some of the most powerful backpack leaf blowers will put out 700 CFM or so of air. At 900 CFM, the Toro 60V Max may be one of the most powerful handheld leaf blowers I have ever seen. The combination of tremendous air volume output with wind speeds of 165 MPH means that very few blowers on the market come close to this amount of power.

So naturally, I had to use this on the famous wet grass clippings to see how it would do. It was an absolute demolition. The leaf blower removed almost every blade of grass from the concrete driveway. I was so impressed that I wanted to ring the doorbell and tell my friend all about it. I have never seen a blower, especially a handheld battery-powered leaf blower, push this much air and perform so well.

Blowing Heavy Debris

I set this blower back in the trailer and moved on to the next house. At the next job, I was looking at a garden bed that had been washed out with water and spread mulch all over the lawn and sidewalk leading up to the front door. The mulch was a shredded hardwood mulch and was mostly dry by this point. Before I mowed the yard, this needed to be cleaned up. It presented a perfect opportunity to give the Toro 60V blower a chance to run wild by blowing mulch in the grass (which is notoriously difficult) and pushing it across a sidewalk.

The blower accomplished both of these. Moving mulch across concrete was a breeze, and I was shocked to see how easily it lifted the mulch out of the thick, long grass and placed it back into the garden bed.

I moved onto the third house of the day, which was just like the first one. The grass was slightly dryer, and the clippings blasted back into the grass easily. At this point, I was texting my wife, telling her I couldn’t believe it.

As a second reminder, this blower was not designed for professional landscapers in the same way that gas-powered leaf blowers are. Those can run all day because you can keep buying and pouring gas into the blower for as long as you need. Toro’s new blower obviously requires you to recharge the batteries.

Long-Term Performance

In my personal use of this blower around my house, which seems to be more and more neglected the more I work on other people’s lawns, I continued to be impressed with the Toro leaf blower. In the course of my normal weekly lawn maintenance, I found the blower to have consistent, extremely powerful performance.

One downside I noticed relatively early is that when you use the turbo button off and on, there is a noticeable drain on the battery life. I expected extremely high power to reduce battery life, but I was a bit disappointed to see how quickly it reduced battery life. Without using the turbo button, I still had more than enough battery life to care for my yard (and then some).

As the weeks passed and leaves began falling from the trees, I retested the Toro battery blower once more. Leaves were absolutely light work for this blower. The blower is an absolute bully for drying leaves, easily launching them across my yard. The turbo button was unnecessary, but I had to use it for the sake of science. It was total and absolute destruction of the leaves.

Pros:

Extremely high power with 900 CFM
Ergonomic grip with easy maneuvering
60V Max battery system used across Toro’s 60V lineup
Finger-saving cruise control function
Much quieter than gas blowers
Turbo button to toggle maximum speed

Cons:

Battery life drains with Turbo usage
Fewer tools in Toro’s battery lineup than some other brands

Why You Should Trust Us

As I mentioned at the beginning of this article, I have personally tested dozens, if not hundreds, of leaf blowers, including backpack blowers, corded electric blowers, cordless blowers and gas-powered handheld blowers.

As a landscaper, I developed a unique love for lawn tools after using them every day for years. Now, I spend my days testing lawnmowers, string trimmers, leaf blowers and more. Much of my time is spent using new leaf blowers and comparing them to see which one reigns supreme.

FAQ

How long does a Toro leaf blower last?

The Toro leaf blower advertises a run time of 120 minutes—but this is generally on a low-speed setting under ideal conditions. In my experience, the blower can run for about an hour for typical use around the house, where you may maximize the power for a longer time. Introducing the turbo button drops the run time to about 30 minutes.

How do you use the Toro battery-powered leaf blower?

The Toro battery leaf blower can be easily controlled using the variable speed trigger, which changes the amount of power coming from the battery. It also has a cruise control function that holds a certain speed in place, allowing your hand to relax and hold the blower—no more cramping.

This is a handheld leaf blower, meaning you simply pull the trigger and point it at whatever debris you want to blow away.

What Other Reviewers Had to Say

While the Toro 60V Max Battery-Powered Blower is still relatively new, the few who have used it have agreed with me—it rocks. One reviewer at Lowe’s felt similarly, calling the blower a “powerhouse” with “the size and weight of the blower working perfectly to balance the blower when used in turbo mode.” Another reviewer at Lowe’s had the same experience as me, using this blower on “1/2 acre of concrete around their farm” and mentioned that the blower “gets rid of those pesky leaves and grass clippings.”

Toro Battery-Powered Leaf Blower vs. Ryobi Battery-Powered Leaf Blower

I’ve had the distinct privilege of using the Toro and Ryobi battery-powered leaf blowers. The Ryobi battery-powered leaf blower is a great blower. Ryobi’s new Whisper series produces quiet, powerful tools that can be found at The Home Depot for a great price. Ryobi’s Whisper series blower was the cat’s meow when it was released. It had one of the highest CFM and MPH ranges on the market and was advertised as the quietest blower.

Times have changed in the last two years. There are a number of other blowers in a similar power range that also exhibit quiet run times. The Toro battery blower simply outguns the Ryobi blower. I have used both side-by-side, and the Toro is the better blower.

Final Verdict

I can confidently say that this is hands down the best combination of price, power and performance on the market. I am excited that Toro will continue to build out their electric lineup with the 60V Max batteries so that I can achieve better cost efficiency in the future. I also think Toro can keep refining their battery technology so that the batteries last longer.

All in all, this blower has set a new standard for power in handheld electric blowers.

Where to Buy the Toro Battery-Powered Leaf Blower

TYLER GRAHAM FOR FAMILY HANDYMAN

I Tried It

Toro Flex-Force 60-volt Max 900-CFM 165-MPH Battery Handheld Leaf Blower

You can grab the Toro battery-powered blower from Lowe’s with the battery for just under $350, and you can use the battery with other Toro lawn tools.

The post I Tried the New Battery-Powered Toro Leaf Blower, and Here’s How It Went appeared first on Family Handyman.

Corona Pruners Review: We Tried It and Were Not Impressed

Marisa Hillman — Fri, 15 Nov 2024 02:44:15 +0000

Whether you’re a casual gardener or a full blown horticulturist, you need a good pair of pruning shears. Both manual shears and electric pruning shears allow you to trim, cut and shape your outdoor plants with ease. There are dozens of pruning shears on the market so we set out to find the best of the best. We tested 11 pairs of these essential trimming tools, including the Corona pruners.

Designed for larger hands, these Corona pruners are said to be capable of cutting everything from flower stems to dead branches. In order to determine whether or not these are worthy of pruning for your garden, our testers put them up against a variety of stems, birchwood dowels and dead wood ranging from 0.25, 0.5 and 0.75 inches wide. Their findings may surprise you. Here’s everything you need to know before adding the Corona pruners to your cart.

What Are the Corona Pruners?

The Corona Classic Cut Pruners measure 8.5-inches long, have a 6.5-inch handle spread and are designed for larger hands. They’re equipped with a curved bypass blade made from high-carbon steel and have a cutting diameter of up to one inch. A non-slip textured grip and weight of just 12.5-ounces makes them easy to carry around the garden.

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We Tried It

Corona Classic Cut Pruners

These Corona pruners are supposed to cut branches and stems up to 1-inch in diameter. Our testers insist this is overstated.

Corona Pruners Features

Sharpenable Blade

You can sharpen the blades on these pruners, allowing you to use them year after year.

Wire-Cutting Capabilities

These pruners feature a tiny notch toward the base of the blade designed for wire-cutting.

Lifetime Warranty

Corona guarantees that these pruners will be free of material and workmanship defects for the life of the tool. Just be sure to save your receipt as you will need an original proof of purchase for any and all returns.

How We Tested the Corona Pruners

Associate product testers Sheri Kaz and Dylan Fischer began the testing process by noting the pruners’ weight, measurements and callout features. Right away, they noted how wide and heavy these pruners felt in their hands. They did point out that the brand’s website indicates that these pruners are made for larger hands. However, they worried that these pruners would quickly cause fatigue.

Once they concluded their observations, our testers took these Corona pruners into Sheri’s backyard for testing. They gathered three sizes of wooden dowels, deadwood branches and stems in various sizes, and greenwood branches and stems, including cherry wood and an asparagus plant, in various sizes.

Our testers ran the first test with a series of 0.25-inch stems. Unfortunately, the pruners did not meet our testers’ expectations. “It took a surprising amount of force just to cut through the smallest dowel,” says Kaz. “We thought that it would at least cut with good force considering how unwieldy it is.” Moreover, these pruners left jagged edges on the stems.

During the second test, these pruners could not cut the birch dowel without maximum force and several tries. “It took a lot of force and two hands to cut an actual dead branch,” explains Kaz. Once the dowel had been cut, our testers noted that the dowel had been split and the sides had been smooshed.

For the final test, Dylan attempted to cut through a 0.75-inch dowel, deadwood branch and asparagus. He noted good cut quality on the asparagus, but it did not cut through the dowel or deadwood. “It couldn’t cut through deadwood or dowel although the specs says it can cut up to 1 inch,” he explains. “The packaging emphasizes getting the branch into the blades are far as you can. But once you have the handles open all the way it’s near impossible to wrap your hand around it, let alone have enough strength to cut through.”

Pros

Priced under $40
Designed for large hands
Packaging allows you to test it in the store
Replacement parts offered on the brand’s website
Lifetime warranty with proof of original purchase

Cons

Poor cutting quality
Handles are too wide
Caused hand fatigue
Overstated product specs
Grip is not cushioned

Why You Should Trust Us

At Family Handyman, our goal is to help you shop with confidence. This is especially true for gardening tools, which help enhance your home’s curb appeal. Our editors and testers have years of experience testing hundreds of products from pruning saws to tree trimming tools, allowing us to bring you the most comprehensive guides on tree pruners and loppers.

For this series on pruners, our product testers spent a total of 45 hours closely examining 11 pairs, including these Corona pruners. They performed 14 tests on each pair and collected roughly 300 data points overall.

FAQ

How do you sharpen Corona hand pruners?

For best results, Corona recommends using their carbide sharpening tool.

What Other Reviewers Had to Say

Out of 50 reviews, these Corona pruners received 4.5 stars. Many purchasers are impressed by how sturdy they feel and their overall ease of use.

One verified buyer is especially appreciative of the high quality construction. “They are built to last with a replaceable blade that’s easy to sharpen…The older pair I have is still functional except that the spring and keeper wore out after 5 years of heavy use. No plastic parts in this model!”

“They are strong, sharp and a little heavier than I expected,” writes another verified buyer. “Very useful for small pruning.”

Corona Pruners vs. Felco 2 Pruners

Our team tested 11 pruners including the Corona Pruners and the Felco 2 pruners. Both pruners are almost identical in size and are rated for large hands. However, our testers found the Corona pruners to be unwieldy and cumbersome.

During testing, our team struggled with the Corona pruners. They required two hands and a lot of force to cut through all of the branches, stems and dead wood. And once cuts were made, they were jagged, smooshed or split the wood. Our team found no reason to recommend the Corona pruners, insisting they are going to cause fatigue more quickly than other pruners.

On the other hand, our testers loved the Swiss-made Felco 2. The Felco 2 features an ergonomic form and contoured finger grips for comfort and safety. Better yet, our team described the Felco 2’s cuts as clean, excellent and like butter. And while they cost around $20-$25 more than the Corona pruners, the Felco 2 is the better choice. Read our full Felco pruners review to learn more and see where to buy them.

Final Verdict

Unfortunately, not every product we test is a winner. Such is the case with these Corona pruners. “These are extremely unwieldy for even Dylan’s hands, and this doesn’t even pay off with any kind of heavy-duty performance,” says Kaz. “The only good thing we can say is that the packaging allows you to test it at the store, so you can at least tell right away if your hand is large enough to hold it.”

Where to Buy the Corona Pruners

These Corona pruners retail for $38.99 and are available at Ace Hardware, Walmart and Tractor Supply Co.

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We Tried It

Corona Classic Cut Pruners

An unwieldy grip and poor cut quality prevented our testers from recommending these pruners.

The post Corona Pruners Review: We Tried It and Were Not Impressed appeared first on Family Handyman.

The Next Big Thing In Gardening: Talking Plants?

Rebecca Wright Brown — Wed, 06 Nov 2024 16:56:34 +0000

New gardeners have so much to learn about how to care for their gardens. Selecting the right plants for their hardiness zone is just the beginning. Next they have to learn how to tell when those plants need water, or more fertilizer, or to be pruned. More experienced gardeners are often looking to enhance and expand their skills. No matter your skill level, the Chelsea Flower Show in the UK is an important event for anyone in the gardening sphere.

What is the Chelsea Flower Show?

The Chelsea Flower Show is put on every year by the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS). Most awards are judged by a carefully curated panel of gardening experts. According to the RHS, that panel generally includes “horticulturalists, garden designers, landscape architects, contractors, head gardeners, journalists or writers, and lecturers.” However, visitors also get to vote on certain awards. This practice allows all facets of the community to judge the gardens.

What’s Unique This Year?

This year, one entrant is aiming to present a futuristic garden: one that can talk back to you. Designer Tom Massey, working with Microsoft, plans to enter a garden that uses AI to communicate its needs. His goal is to embed soil sensors for as many of the garden’s needs as possible. These sensors will connect to a computer that can translate the soil readings into plain answers about what the garden needs.

He hopes that this technology can soon be used at a wider scale to usher in a new era of eco-conscious gardening. If gardeners can tell exactly how moist the soil is, they can be even more precise in their watering, for example. If enough people can implement something like this, Massey thinks, there could be a significant positive impact on water use.

AI and Resources

It is important to note here that generative AI consumes vast quantities of resources. So, we should not utilize it frivolously. According to Cindy Gorton, a contributor to Forbes, the data centers that power generative AI use “cooling towers and air mechanisms to dissipate heat, causing up to 9 liters of water to evaporate per kWh of energy used.” Water is already a scarce resource. It is our duty to be mindful of how we consume it and what we are doing to safeguard it. After all, you can’t nourish a garden without water.

Sources

AI Is Accelerating the Loss of Our Scarcest Natural Resource: Water, Forbes, 2024

The post The Next Big Thing In Gardening: Talking Plants? appeared first on Family Handyman.

19 Inexpensive Landscaping Fixes That Look Pricey

noelle devoe — Mon, 28 Oct 2024 19:51:26 +0000

Add a Small Water Feature

With minimal materials and effort, you can build this beautiful artesian fountain in just two days. And—bonus—once it’s built, you don’t have to worry about maintenance. Here’s how to build it yourself.

Carve Out a Slice of Lawn for a Flower Bed

Putting in a flower bed doesn’t have to be complex or expensive. Just some simple edging, good soil and colorful flowers will do. Get even fancier with a raised garden bed.

Gravel can also make a good flower bed filler.

Roll in a Boulder

Boulders are eye-catching and provide a natural location for adding grasses, flowers and other garden plants. You’ll find huge piles of boulders to pick through anywhere that sells landscaping supplies. Prices vary with size, less for breadbox-size ones and more for giant boulders that you’ll have to have delivered and placed. Whatever sizes you choose, nest the boulders into the ground a bit. They should look like they were left from a receding glacier—not like they were just rolled off the back of a pickup.

Grow Self-Seeding Flowers

Self-seeding flowers, like the hollyhocks seen here, are a real money saver for the home gardener. Buy a packet of seeds now and have flowers forevermore. The secret is to sow them where they have a chance to succeed (consult seed packets for recommendations) and then allow some of the fading flowers to go to seed. Resist deadheading—at least near the end of the season, when a new crop of seeds is needed. Some great self-seeders include rudbeckia, sunflower, cleome, zinnia, calendula, bachelor’s buttons, poppies and cosmos.

Use Cheap Planters, but Dress Them Up

Garden twine is a useful tool for any gardener, especially as a cheap and cheerful addition to any planter. With a little hot glue and some imagination, you can create almost any look you like. Wrap an entire run-of-the-mill cheap plastic planter with twine for an industrial look, or cover only a portion to give your decorative planters a modern edge. Twine is also easily painted, so consider adding a colorful stripe to the middle section of twine with spray paint for an extra pop of color, or group pots together with assorted colors to accent your other outdoor decor. The only limitation to any planter is to ensure that the size of the planter matches the size of the plants you want to display.

Go with a Gravel Path

Adding a garden path provides interest and a place to walk through your landscape. But rather than installing an expensive concrete or paver pathway, opt for less-expensive gravel or mulch.

Mount Small Planters on the Deck

In a little under an hour, you can make this simple railing-mounted planter. All you need is some standard gutter parts. Get the plans for this deck planter here.

Build a Rustic Arbor

You can make this garden trellis from just $40 of steel rebar. And you won’t have to weld a thing. Build the garden archway by bending the arches and attaching the decorative circles with wire. When you’re done, cover it with climbing plants for an attractive addition to your garden.

Repurpose Containers for Starting Seeds

Reuse a plastic clamshell container from the salad bar as a mini greenhouse for starting seeds in the spring. After washing the container, punch a few holes in the top. Fill the bottom with potting soil and plant your seeds. Close the lid and place the container in a sunny spot. It acts like a mini greenhouse, allowing the sun to reach the plants while holding in moisture.

Put in a Backyard Fire Pit

Build a fire pit for not much more than the cost of a flimsy store-bought fire ring.

Save Your Tender Bulbs

A lot of northern gardeners treat tender bulbs — such as calla lilies, caladiums and gladiolus — as annuals, allowing them to die at season’s end. Instead, overwinter them so they’ll be fit and healthy in the spring. To make it simpler, plant tender bulbs in containers. After frost kills the tops, whisk the containers into cool storage in a basement or attached garage. Water sparingly — maybe once a month — while they’re dormant so the soil doesn’t totally dry out, and bring the containers back out in spring.

Recycle Berry Containers for Lawn Care

When it’s time to clean out the refrigerator, be sure to save those plastic berry containers. You can toss the mushy raspberries, but wash and dry the container—it’s perfect for spreading grass seed on your lawn!

Make Your Own Planters

This 3-season planter box uses plastic containers or liners to keep moisture and dirt away from the wooden parts, meaning it will survive the outdoors a lot longer than other planters. Learn how to build the 3-season planter box here.

Add Mounds to Flat Areas

If you’re stuck with a perfectly flat yard, a mounded “island” of earth is a great place to isolate and display plantings, yard ornaments, boulders or other eye-catching features. A yard with contours looks more natural than a flat yard. Order a dump truck’s worth of topsoil, or use fill generated from patio or pond excavations.

Go For Green

Unless you’re a seasoned gardener, make gardening easier by getting help with selecting and placing plants. Bring photos or a scale drawing of planting areas to the nursery and enlist the help of a knowledgeable salesperson. Your goals are to choose a variety of plants that lend color throughout the season (including winter), and to position them well, so their mature growth heights and widths fill in the planting beds and blend well.

Erect Stone Entry Walls

Low stone walls are striking features that can define your entry and guide visitors up the walk. Natural stone is ideal but difficult to set. But, it may not always be the right material for your retaining wall. The decorative concrete units shown here are relatively inexpensive and easy to install. They subtly separate seating areas from public sidewalks and streets. And they’re also great places for casual seating and potted plants.

Put in a Small Patio

A simple flagstone or paver brick patio furnished with an outdoor dining set can make the perfect patio design. They’re also the perfect spot to watch the kids play in the yard and entertain guests. Practically speaking, patios help drain water away from the house and are a great solution for areas that won’t support grass.

Cleome

Cleome is just one of the many self-seeding annual plants that come back year after year without any effort on your part. They work great in both the city or the suburbs. Also called spiderflower because of the spiderlike flowers, it grows 4 feet tall or better and brandishes large pink, purple or white flowers. Although it is a vigorous self-seeder, unwanted seedlings are easy to pull when they’re young. Because of its size, cleome is not a plant to be ignored. That size also makes it a great back-of-border plant in a flowerbed.

Celosia

Celosia is another rampant self-seeding perennial that makes itself at home in your garden year after year. If so, consider yourself lucky, because the vividly colored blooms on this plant are a pure delight. They feature a variety of colors—from burgundy, red, magenta and pink to cream, orange and yellow. Celosia offers different flower shapes, too. There are plumes, crests and spikes. No wonder this annual is loved by so many gardeners. There’s a size to fit any garden, from 6-inch dwarfs to 3-foot-tall specimens.

The post 19 Inexpensive Landscaping Fixes That Look Pricey appeared first on Family Handyman.

How To Create a Low-Maintenance Front Yard Landscaping Feature

Carmen De La Paz — Fri, 18 Oct 2024 15:47:30 +0000

The first thing to do when planning any garden or landscape feature is to ask yourself what you want out of it. Are you trying to attract birds? Add color or fragrance to the area? Or cover up some unsightly porch or deck footings? For our project, our goal was to create low-maintenance front yard landscaping that would freshen up our space and boost the curb appeal of our home.

I want to be very clear: “low maintenance landscape” does not mean NO maintenance. A flower bed or landscape feature in your yard is a living thing that will require some attention. As much as we wish “low maintenance” meant “put it in the ground and you’re done,” that is not the case. At a minimum, you must water and pay attention to how your garden grows. Plants are just like people: some are high maintenance, and some are low maintenance. Do a little homework so you can make your choice wisely, and the whole flower garden season will be easier in the end.

I was very fortunate to have Melinda Myers, a highly regarded landscape designer, on this project. I gained a ton of knowledge and am happy to share some of her insight.

Choose plants for garden

Once you know what you want from your garden, it’s time to determine the plants that will get you there. Myers recommends first visiting your local garden center and reading the plant tags.

“Plant tags are excellent,” she says. “They give you the growing conditions and the size of the plant. Some nurseries are now sharing more information on their website, where you can learn so much more than just the hardiness zone. Will it flower? Is it going to provide interest for songbirds and butterflies? Will it match the color you are looking for?”

Sketch out a plot map that includes the anchor plants you want to plant to get an idea of how the garden will come together. Consider the size of the plants now and how big they will grow. Myers always plans to “use smaller complementary plants and annuals for quick fill until plants grow into the space, so it looks like your garden has been there for a while.”

Establish the physical garden

Define a specific line where you plan to plant your flower bed. If it isn’t defined by hardscapes, such as a sidewalk entrance or front porch, you will want to edge the flower bed to contain the dirt and mulch once it is all done. For visual confirmation, before you start digging up your yard, lay out your flowerbed section with colored landscape marking spray paint.

Where hardscape doesn’t exist, use a lawn edger or shovel to cut into the grass or dirt along your spray paint line to create your garden boundaries. It helps to rock the edger or shovel back and forth to make ample room if you plan to install a physical metal or plastic garden edging to fit into.

Remove sod, weeds and roots

Once the flower garden has been defined, start the process of preparing the dirt by clearing away grass/sod, weeds, pebbles and rocks from the planned section. You may want to rent a garden tiller to help with hard-to-remove grassroots. Turn over the dirt and then return with a rake to gather and remove loose roots and weeds. Knee pads will make this process much more comfortable.

Once the weeds, roots and small stones have been removed, if you think you have low-quality dirt, you will want to help your soon-to-be-planted plants by nourishing your dirt with equal parts of compost and topsoil. Use the tiller to help combine the compost and topsoil with the existing dirt. For good water drainage, you want your dirt mix to be fluffy and light, not compact and tight.

Layout plants

Before committing to plant placement and getting a feel for spacing before you put them in the ground, take the time to set plants with their plastic pots where you envision them on top of the ground. This will allow you to move things, step back, take a look and ultimately be sure of where you want the plants to live and thrive. Always consider the trajectory of sunlight and color flow in flowers and leaves.

When playing with placement, keep in mind the potential growth size of each plant and allow them room to grow. For visual interest, avoid the same color or plant right next to each other unless you want to make a specific statement, such as a straight line of lavender. The more thought and purpose you dedicate to this step, the more successful your garden will be.

For example, in our flower bed, we placed the Korea Spice Viburnum along the wall, leaving growing room behind it against the wall of the house. It was the biggest plant we had and had the potential to get bigger, so we left room for growth all the way around it. The Fire Light Tidbit hydrangea will get bigger every season, yet it starts out each season low, allowing for the plants behind it to be seen. The Purple Monet was placed toward the front because these plants are starting to grow smaller, which will also give us the effect of color contrast.

Then, we planted annuals to fill in the space with petunias in full color. These annuals won’t come back next year, but our other plants will take over that space as they grow.

Plant

When planting into the ground, make digging the holes easier by using a garden auger attachment with a drill. Be sure to read the tag on the plant for exact depth and separation from other plants. Plants will always do better if the hole is dug deep enough to fully cover the rootball with dirt. Use the pot the plant came in as a depth gauge and go a few inches deeper to allow the roots to expand and settle.

Again, read the tag and take into consider the plant’s full potential to grow and leave that amount of space around it. Remember, plants take time to reach a point where you will be really happy with them. Allow for room and be willing to transplant the plant if needed.

Lay in landscape mulch

To give your flower bed a finished and clean look, use a two-to-three-inch layer of organic mulch under and around the plants. Use a composting material such as cardboard or newspaper under the mulch to keep the mulch layer intact for a longer period of time. Mulch will also help maintain moisture around your plants for a longer period of time, making the need for watering less frequent.

Water regularly

Establishing your plants properly starts with ensuring they are watered correctly. Follow the watering instructions provided on the plant tags. However, be prepared to adjust your watering schedule as needed to account for changes in weather conditions. The general rule is to avoid letting the soil become too dry or overly saturated. Pay close attention to your plant’s leaves – if they start to change color or droop, that’s a sign they aren’t happy with the current watering situation. Remember, plants will communicate with you if something is amiss.

As Myers shared, “There are no failures in gardening. If a plant isn’t doing well, move it to a better place or give it to a neighbor. The most important thing is to have fun!” The key is being responsive to your plants’ needs and adapting your approach as necessary to help them thrive.

FAQ

How do I know if I need to add compost or topsoil to my flower bed?

If the dirt in your flower bed or garden is clay-heavy or too thick, it will easily clump into a ball when you bunch it up in your fist. On the other hand, if your dirt has a high composition of sand, it won’t hold moisture. You want your dirt to be fluffy when you rake it. Lay out topsoil and compost bags side by side, slice them open and mix it into the existing dirt. It should have a nice rich dirt color, not too muddy and not too grainy.

How do I dispose of extra bad dirt from my yard landscape project?

Excess bad dirt, roots, and weeds are inevitable when tackling any exterior landscape project. What do you do with it? Most community or county dump yards do not accept dirt, and most dumpster bins do not want dirt dumped in them. Furthermore, if you have rented one, the company may charge you more money if they find dirt in it.

If there is a reasonable amount of excess garden dirt, weeds and roots, you may consider starting a composting pile in your yard. Eventually, you can make this dirt good dirt. If there is a lot of excess, you can post it on a local community website or app for free dirt fill. Someone may come and get it. You may be surprised; someone may want it. One man’s garden excess may be another’s desire – especially if it is free. As a last resort, pay attention to construction sites in your area and consider calling them and asking if you can dump the dirt in their soon-to-be-cleared-out lot.

Should you put landscape fabric under mulch?

“Landscape fabric belongs under stone so the stone doesn’t disappear into the ground,” says Myers. “If you want to keep weeds out of your garden, use cardboard or newspaper as a layer under your organic mulch. Over time, these layers will break down and compost to improve your dirt.”
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The post How To Create a Low-Maintenance Front Yard Landscaping Feature appeared first on Family Handyman.

10 Flowers That Will Thrive in Full Sun

Rebecca Wright Brown — Fri, 18 Oct 2024 15:07:59 +0000

Lantana

These cheery full sun flowers come in a variety of colors. They do best with at least six hours of direct sunlight per day. Some varieties feature gorgeous multi-colored blooms like the ones pictures here. Others are solid-colored. They handle heat well, too, and are a good choice for landscaping in hot weather.

Zinnias

When these adaptable flowers get full sun, they can grow up to three feet high. However, they will also do well in shade. Zinnias also tolerate heat well, although some species are susceptible to mildew. Advances in breeding and hybridization have produced species and cultivars that are disease-resistant, performing well even in the muggy summers of the Southeast.

Zinnias are annuals, and many self-sow readily in the garden each year. They are a must-have in a butterfly garden, and some species attract hummingbirds as well. Because they’re annuals, they transform from seed to flower in record time, and their blooms last all summer long!

Sunflower

Sunflowers are the perfect wildflowers for the suburbs! Some varieties of sunflowers even grow up to 10 feet tall. Choose a variety that stays a reasonable height, and you’ll enjoy showy flowers and tasty seeds. If you choose the Soraya, expect stunning blooms on sturdy stems, so you don’t have to worry about them falling over. It grows up to six feet tall and is a pretty cut flower as well.

Dahlberg Daisy

Dahlberg daisies are native to south Texas and northern Mexico, so they love hot, dry conditions and don’t enjoy extended high humidity or soggy soils. Plant them in dry, well-drained soil and give them lots of sunshine. Once established, they’ll thrive for weeks on end without much rain.

They’re intolerant of frost or freezes, so start them inside from seed and transplant them outdoors once winter has finally given up in your area. This low-growing, spreading plant looks best along borders or in hanging baskets, where folks can appreciate up close the little blooms and fragrant feathery foliage. Some butterflies even use these flowers for nectar, so you might try them as edging in a sunny butterfly garden.

Annual Vinca

Annual vinca is a compact plant, growing to about 15 in. x 15 in. Multiple five-petaled blooms that appear continuously set off the shiny green leaves. Vinca is available in a range of shades, including white, pink, red, purple, and lavender.

Vinca needs little maintenance and deadheading isn’t required. They do well in full sun to part shade, and can tolerate some drought, although they flower best with regular watering. Trailing vinca is wonderful for containers or as ground cover. Butterflies visit annual vinca for nectar, although it’s not their preferred garden plant.

Pentas

In most of the country, pentas are grown as an annual, though you can overwinter them in zones without frost. They’re readily available in nurseries in most areas and easy to grow.

The clusters of tiny star-shaped flowers are laden with nectar, and butterflies of all sizes love to visit them. Grow pentas in full to partial sun and provide regular water, especially as they are established. They grow well both in the ground and in containers.

Peony

Peonies like the sun, so when you’re planting them, you need to be mindful of location. Avoid trees that will grow taller and shade them. With its green foliage and showy blooms, you wouldn’t think that the peony does well in a dry garden, but you’d be surprised.

And since the flowers are fragrant, it’s a popular choice as a cut flower as well. Peonies like full sun or partial shade, and grow to a height and width of up to 35 inches. Another plus is that they are resistant to deer and rabbits.

Beardtongue

Penstemon, also known as beardtongue, is a great addition to a drought-tolerant garden with its flowering spikes that color the landscape in spring and summer. Each flowering spike consists of multiple blossoms ranging in color from pale pink, rose, magenta, purple and red depending on the species.

Besides adding beauty to the garden, hummingbirds are drawn to their tubular flower. The majority of penstemon species are tough and thrive on neglect. Their needs are few and they do best in drought tolerant gardens with well-drained soil, full sun to filtered shade, and supplemental water during the warm months of the year.

Russian Sage

The distinctive spiky shape of Russian sage with its lavender-blue flowers stands alone in the garden. This small shrub is often treated as a perennial. Its silvery stems and leaves are fragrant, and its flowers can appear as early as late spring and all the way into early fall, depending on your zone. Bees, butterflies and hummingbirds are all attracted to this small shrub, but deer and rabbits are not. Check out our list of fragrance flowers for your garden.

Russian sage can be grown in a wide variety of climates all the way from Zone 3 to Zone 10. Because of its hardiness, it’s one of our favorite full sun flowers. In colder climates, it will die back to the ground only to reappear in spring. Those in warmer climates, Zone 8 and above, will enjoy this shrub all year long. Extremely drought tolerant, Russian sage needs well-drained, neutral to slightly alkaline soil, full sun and hot summers to look its best.

Fernleaf Yarrow

Fernleaf yarrow, or simply yarrow, is an easy perennial that grows in nearly any sunny situation, even with poor soil. This species forms a tall, bushy mound of fragrant ferny foliage, with huge clusters of golden-yellow flowers appearing on tall stems beginning in early summer. Outstanding for cutting, fresh or dried. Remove faded flowers regularly to promote continued blooming.

The post 10 Flowers That Will Thrive in Full Sun appeared first on Family Handyman.

8 Outdoor Plants to Get Ready for the Fall

Laurie M Nichols — Fri, 27 Sep 2024 19:49:11 +0000

Holly

Prized for their shiny, evergreen leaves and red berries, holly bushes are a low-maintenance addition to your garden. Fall is a great time to plant hollies. The cool, seasonal temperatures, followed by months of winter, give them a chance to establish strong roots before facing the heat of summer.

Plan to plant hollies at least six weeks before the first frost to avoid killing new transplants. If wind exposure will be an issue, consider wrapping hollies in burlap to protect them from harsh winter conditions.

Azalea

Flowering shrubs known for their colorful blooms in early spring, azaleas are a popular choice among gardeners. They come in both deciduous and evergreen varieties of many shapes and color blooms.

Planting azaleas in the fall while the soil is still warm and new growth has slowed allows the roots to flourish. “Fall’s a great time to plant azaleas,” Laterreur says. “Your patience will be rewarded with blooms early the following spring.”

Chrysanthemums (mums)

Chrysanthemums, or “mums,” as they’re often called, are the quintessential fall plant. One of the few that blooms in the fall, mums will return year after year if planted in the ground. Mums prefer to be planted in the early part of the season, which allows for the plant to establish a hardy root system that will survive the winter. “Planting them in fall while they’re in bloom gives you an instant pop of color in your garden, too,” Corbett says.

Tulips

Grown from bulbs, tulips are a popular spring-blooming flower known for their vibrant colors.

In order for tulips to grow and bloom, they must be planted in the fall. “Tulips need a period of dormancy before they can grow in the warm spring temperatures,” Corbett says. “The cold winter months are key to strong, healthy flowers in the spring.” If possible, plant tulip bulbs in late fall. The cooler temperatures help prevent fungal growth and reduce the risk of squirrels and chipmunks digging them up.

Maple tree

A maple tree is a deciduous tree known for its iconic fall foliage of red, orange and yellow leaves. There are many varieties of maple trees, and most do best in well-draining soil and full sun.

Fall is the best time to plant maple trees, as the cool air and warm soil stop foliage growth and direct energy to root development. This allows the tree to be well-rooted by spring and ready for the growing season. For best results, plant maple tree saplings in the fall after they have lost their leaves.

Lilac

Lilacs are a flowering, woody shrub known for their fragrant, early spring blooms. A very hardy plant, once established, lilacs require very little upkeep to continue to flourish. Planting lilacs in the fall gives them a good chance to establish roots before winter.

It’s best to plant lilacs when the sapling is dormant and has dropped its leaves, but well before the first frost. This allows the plant to direct its energy toward root growth before growing new leaves in the spring.

Crabapple

Crabapple trees are a type of apple tree usually grown for their beautiful spring blooms rather than their small, tart fruit. Planting crabapple trees in the fall promotes strong root growth for a more resilient plant in the spring. The warm, moist soil typical of the fall allows the plant to get established before the hot summer months, increasing its likelihood of survival.

Plant a container-grown crabapple tree where it will get at least six hours of sunlight daily. Water it weekly during the first full season after planting.

Hydrangea

A popular flowering shrub known for its large, colorful clusters of blooms, hydrangeas do well in most soil types and are easy to cultivate. Most bloom continuously throughout the growing season, adding vibrant color to any garden. Hydrangeas are a great fall plant, but “make sure to get them in the ground about six weeks before the first hard frost,” Corbett says. This gives the roots a chance to recover from the shock of transplanting and begin to grow before cold temperatures set in.

About the Experts

Joyce Corbett is the owner of Classic Courtyards in West Springfield, Massachusetts. She has over forty years of landscaping design and installation experience.
Ricky Laterreur is the owner of Laterreur Landscapes and Gardens in Longmeadow, Massachusetts. He offers hardscaping and landscaping services and has over fifteen years of industry experience.

Sources

University of New Hampshire Extension “Is fall a good time to plant trees and shrubs?“

The post 8 Outdoor Plants to Get Ready for the Fall appeared first on Family Handyman.

This Craftsman Backpack Leaf Blower Is Two Tools In One, And It’ll Clean Up Your Yard in No Time

Marisa Hillman — Thu, 26 Sep 2024 17:49:13 +0000

There’s no denying that fall foliage is a sight to behold–at least while it’s still on the trees. But when all those leaves start to blanket your lawn and gardens, that’s another story. One of the fastest ways to combat a yard full of leaves is by investing in a good leaf blower or lawn vacuum. But if you don’t have the room or the budget for multiple tools, then you’ll want to pick up a leaf blower and vacuum combo.

One of our favorite leaf blowers that also functions as a leaf vacuum is the Craftsman backpack leaf blower. It’s powerful, easy to use and budget-friendly. In order to see how well this Craftsman backpack blower stands up to a mountain of leaves, we sent it to our testing lab for close inspection. Here’s everything you need to know about this model before you add it to your arsenal of lawn equipment.

What is the Craftsman Backpack Leaf Blower?

The Craftsman backpack leaf blower is an electric leaf blower. It has a 12-inch cord and is a true backpack-style lawn tool with two straps, making it less cumbersome than a sling bag. This leaf blower boasts a powerful 12-amp motor with a velocity and air volume of up to 450 cubic feet per minute (CFM). When it comes to speed, this tool can shoot air out at 260 miles per hour (MPH).

At under 12 pounds, this Craftsman backpack blower is lightweight and incredibly easy to use and maneuver, thanks to its user-friendly handles. But that’s not the only reason we love it so much. This Craftsman blower also functions as a leaf vacuum.

“Vacuums are effective when cleaning up smaller spaces and tight areas. For example, cleaning leaves in bushes,” explains Francisco Fuenmayor, a handyman and home improvement expert at LocalProBook. “A leaf blower won’t be able to blow the leaves out of there, while blowers are better for quickly moving large amounts of debris across bigger spaces.”

No tools are required to switch this from blower to vacuum mode. In vacuum mode, it sucks up and mulches up to 55 liters of leaves into the backpack. Once the bag is full, simply open it up and dump all of the mulched debris out. Yard work has never been so easy! Keep reading for a full breakdown of the Craftsman backpack blower’s features and to find out why it’s one of the best backpack leaf blowers we’ve tested.

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Craftsman Backpack Leaf Blower

The Craftsman backpack leaf blower also functions as a leaf vacuum for quick and easy cleanup.

Craftsman Backpack Leaf Blower Features

Versatility

As mentioned above, the Craftsman backpack blower functions as both a leaf blower and a leaf vacuum. In order to switch between functions, all you have to do is switch the tubes and twist open the fan cover. The fan cover is attached to the machine so you don’t lose it, and no tools are required.

Engine Power and Blowing Force

The Craftsman backpack blower is pretty powerful given its size and price point. Its 12-amp motor allows it to clear tough debris like wet leaves and pebbles. It moves air at 450 cubic feet per minute (CFM). “A strong blower with good CFM is great for cleaning hard-to-reach corners and gathering debris from garden beds into neat piles on the lawn,” explains Fuenmayor. Additionally, the Craftsman backpack blower blows air at up to 260 MPH. A higher MPH increases the distance you are able to clear.

Mulching Capabilities

In vacuum mode, the Craftsman backpack blower’s plastic impeller shreds debris into mulch and deposits it into the backpack. According to the manufacturer, this machine shreds leaves and reduces their volume by a ratio of 12:01. During testing, our testers noted that this blower mulched the leaves very finely.

Warranty

The Craftsman backpack blower is covered by a three-year limited warranty. This means that for three years following the date of purchase or date of delivery of the product (whichever date is later), this machine is warrantied against defects in material or workmanship. This warranty is extended only to the original end-user purchaser of the product. Read more about Craftsman’s warranty policy here.

How We Tested It

The product testing team, led by associate product testers Sheri Kaz and Dylan Fischer, took this Craftsman backpack blower into our testing lab to see what it’s really made of. They looked at how easy it was to assemble and how well it performed as both a leaf blower and a leaf vacuum.

Assembly

Our testers ran into some initial hiccups during the assembly process, noting that the plastic pieces didn’t click into place as satisfyingly as they would have liked. However, they describe the process itself as pretty straightforward. Once it was assembled and ready to go, our testers especially liked the ergonomic handles which allowed them to get a good grip before they started blowing.

Leaf Blowing

To test the Craftsman’s performance as a leaf blower, our team scattered dry leaves around the yard, then blew them into a designated 4-by-10-foot area before vacuuming, evaluating the blower’s directional control, ease of use and noise level. Our testers were really impressed by the power behind this blower. However, it was a bit too powerful at times. “It would be nice if there were multiple speed levels, because the one will blow your pile all around as you get closer to it,” says Kaz. Additionally, this leaf blower registered 106.5 decibels. In other words, it’s loud! Ear and eye protection are strongly recommended.

Vacuuming

After they finished blowing the leaves, our testers set out to test the vacuum function on the Craftsman backpack blower. To convert the machine from a leaf blower to a leaf vacuum, Kaz and Fisher had to swap the blower tube for the vacuum tube and twist open the fan cover, which is attached to the machine so you don’t lose it. Though easy in theory, Kaz and Fischer struggled a bit here, noting that the tubes don’t really click into place. But after double-checking the user manual, they were back in business.

For this test, our testers spread roughly 30 gallons of leaves across two rectangles of grass. They covered one rectangle in dry leaves and the other had damp leaves, which had been misted with a hose. Our testers timed how long it took to suck up each rectangle’s leaves while evaluating the ergonomics, maneuverability, noise level and more.

According to Kaz and Fischer’s report, it took just under three minutes to suck up all of the dry leaves and just over one minute to suck up all of the wet leaves. Upon emptying the bag, they noted that the leaves had been very finely mulched.

Comfort

As for comfort, Fischer points out that the unit itself gets pretty heavy to use for an extended length of time. Luckily, the overall backpack design helped. “The backpack is nice on this one because it’s a full backpack that goes over both shoulders,” he says. “It provides a lot of relief from the weight.”

Overall, our product testing team highly recommends the Craftsman backpack blower. It was a top performer in the lab and is both easy and comfortable to use. “The two-strapped backpack-style bag works amazingly well and should be the standard for all these handheld vacuums. It’s a great way to equally distribute weight and goes a long way to mitigate fatigue,” raves Fischer.

And for less than $100, you simply can’t go wrong.

Pros:

Functions as a leaf blower and a leaf vacuum
Two-strapped backpack provides relief from the weight of the unit
Powerful performance
Finely mulches leaves and debris it vacuums
Under $100
Ergonomic handles

Cons:

Not cordless
Plastic pieces don’t readily click into place

Why You Should Trust Us

Our editors and testers on the product testing team have years of experience in the commerce space. We’ve tested dozens of leaf blowers and leaf vacuums, including the Husqvarna Backpack Blower, Stihl BR 600 Backpack Blower and the Ego Leaf Blower. And we don’t plan on stopping there! Currently, we are testing more leaf blowers and leaf vacuums to ensure we help you make informed decisions based on real-life testing before you buy.

To further discuss the benefits and uses of leaf blowers and vacuums, we also enlisted the expertise of Francisco Fuenmayor, a handyman and home improvement expert at LocalProBook.

FAQ

What kind of gas does a Craftsman backpack leaf blower take?

This Craftsman backpack blower is electric and does not take gas.

Why won’t my Craftsman backpack blower start?

First, make sure your Craftsman backpack blower is plugged in. The cord on this model is only 12 inches long, so an extension cord may be required.

If that doesn’t work, check the fan cover. “Initially, you have to turn the cover to lock it into place in order for the machine to turn on,” explains Fischer. “We didn’t realized this, so the machine wouldn’t start after several tries. Finally, after about five attempts and referring to the user manual, it seemed that whatever was hanging it up resolved itself and we were able to click the cover into place.”

What kind of oil goes in a Craftsman?

This Craftsman backpack blower does not require oil.

What Other Reviewers and Experts Had to Say

Five-star reviewer Robert T Kennedy appreciates how well this unit cleans his yard without sucking up expensive decorative stones. “I liked the multiple options for the leaf blower,” he writes. “One piece of equipment keeps my lawn, garden, walkways and driveway clean with its powerful motor. Definitely worth the reasonable price.”

Micray, another five-star reviewer, calls the Craftsman backpack blower a back-saver. “This has been such a lifesaver trying to clean up. My backyard had hundreds of those little bitty gumballs, and this has made picking them up so much easier,” they write.

After running into some of the same issues as our product testing team in regards to getting the pieces into place, verified user Girly Gamer is happy to have figured it out. “It ended up working beautifully on the vacuum part which is all I wanted. Great power, bag is comfortable and holds A LOT! It is fairly heavy, but with the two handles, it’s not too bad,” they write. “Saved me big time from raking and bending over to pick up piles of pine needles which had been building up for a year! Even mulched pine cones and twigs fine…”

Product Comparison

Our product testing team tested a total of six blower vacuum combos including the Craftsman backpack blower. They labeled this unit the best overall for its performance, two-strap backpack style and good value. We also tested the Toro Ultra Blower Vac, another corded model which functions as a blower and a vacuum. The Craftsman and the Toro are both similarly sized and priced, there was a significant difference in performance.

The Craftsman backpack blower has a velocity and air volume of up to 450 cubic feet per minute (CFM) and expels air at 260 miles per hour (MPH). The Toro, on the other hand, has a velocity and air volume of 340 CFM in blow mode and 405 CFM in vac mode. And though the Toro boasts the same 260 MPH as the Craftsman, our testers found the Toro’s blowing performance to be much weaker than the Craftsman backpack blower.

Additionally, the Craftsman backpack blower has a two-strapped backpack-style bag which makes it easy to tote around the yard. The Toro has one strap which you can sling over your shoulder. Though not uncomfortable, it’s not as convenient as the Craftsman backpack blower.

Final Verdict

If you’re looking for an inexpensive way to keep your yard neat and tidy, you can’t go wrong with the Craftsman backpack blower. This versatile blower is comfortable, easy to use and powerful enough to get the job done. In short, you can expect your lawn to look like a million bucks all autumn long thanks to this handy backpack blower.

Where to Buy the Craftsman backpack leaf blower

The Craftsman backpack leaf blower is a steal at under $100. You can shop on Amazon where it’s available with free two-day Prime shipping. You can also shop at Lowe’s where it’s available for in-store pickup or delivery.

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Craftsman Backpack Leaf Blower

The two-strapped backpack equally distributes the blower's weight.

The post This Craftsman Backpack Leaf Blower Is Two Tools In One, And It’ll Clean Up Your Yard in No Time appeared first on Family Handyman.

Garden Tips, Techniques, Ideas and Tools | Family Handyman

How To Start Seeds Indoors in 8 Simple Steps

When to start seeds indoors

Soil to start seeds

Transfer the soil mixture

Plant the seeds

Label your seeds

Mist with water

Place on a heat mat

Introduce a grow light

Start fertilizing

FAQ

When it comes to starting seeds, what is a blackout period?

What does it mean to sacrifice a seed?

Why do some seeds (especially flowers) require refrigeration before planting?

10 Water-Saving Tips for Your Garden and Yard

Choose drought-tolerant plants

Add a rain barrel (or two)

Mulch well

Plant native shrubs

Add organic matter to soil

Replace grass with ground cover

Install a smart irrigation system

Raise the mower height

Only water during ideal conditions

Plant a low-water lawn alternative

About the Experts

10 Weeds With Purple Flowers

Burdock

Fleabane

Wild Violet

Purple Deadknettle

Chicory

Creeping Speedwell

Heal-all

Comfrey

Aster

Ground Ivy

About the Experts

Sources

Hairy Bittercress: How to Identify and Get Rid of It

What Is Hairy Bittercress?

What Does Hairy Bittercress Look Like?

Why Is Hairy Bittercress a Problem?

How To Prevent Hairy Bittercress

Promote a healthy lawn

Plant a dense ground cover

Avoid spread from nursery plants and pots

Minimize soil disturbance

How To Get Rid of Hairy Bittercress

Pre-emergence control

Post-emergence control

Pulling manually

Regular mowing

FAQ

Is hairy bittercress poisonous to animals?

About the Experts

Here’s How Much Water Your Grass Really Needs

How Much Should I Water My Lawn?

What Factors Influence How Much To Water My Lawn?

Lawn type

Lawn age

Season

Soil composition

Other environmental conditions

How Much Should I Water a Newly Seeded Lawn​?

Signs You Are Underwatering Your Lawn

What Are The Signs I Am Overwatering My Lawn?

Tips To Avoid Overwatering a Lawn

About the Experts

Lawn Care Playbook: How To Supercharge Your Yard This Season

Tools and Materials

Prepping for Spring and Summer

Seeding

Mowing

Watering

Fertilizer

Crabgrass and Weeds

Brown Patches

Fall and winter maintenance

How Much Should I Water a Newly Seeded Lawn?