Whether you have a skateboard or a longboard, storing it leaned up against the wall next to your front door isn’t ideal. Creating a skateboard wall mount is a fun DIY project you can knock out in a weekend. A skateboard mount not only provides a safe place to store your skateboard off the floor but also adds a cool visual element to your space.

You can customize your skateboard wall mount to hold either one or more skateboards. I chose to design a wall mount that accommodates two skateboards. However, if you prefer a mount for just one skateboard, you can simply shorten the wall mount and use only two arm supports instead of four.

I also spent a little extra money purchasing rosewood for an inlay, which is not necessary but adds a cool custom touch to the design. You can also make this project more budget-friendly by using a different type of sturdy wood, such as Baltic birch plywood instead of cherry wood.

Fig. A: Project Overview

Fig. B: Arm Support Overview

Cut the arm supports

Put on safety glasses and hearing protection. Sketch the arm support dimensions (from Fig. B above) on the 1×6 cherry board with a pencil and speed square, then use a miter saw to cut around the perimeter of the four arm supports.

To save time and ensure consistency, use the first arm support you create as a template for the remaining three.

Cut slots in the arm supports

Use a jigsaw to cut along the inside of the 7/8-in. slot in each of the four arm supports. This will be a rough cut, so don’t worry if it isn’t perfect. Then, smooth them out on the router table fitted with a 3/4-in. straight router bit. Make slow passes to prevent burning the wood.

Round the edges of the arm supports

Use a 1/4-in. round-over router bit to round the edges except the long, 7-1/2-in. edge along the back of the arm supports and 1-in. edges at the top and bottom.

Sand the four arm supports

Sand all sides and edges of the four arm supports using both a random orbit sander and sanding by hand. Start with 120-grit sandpaper and progress to 320-grit. Be sure to sand the inside of the 7/8-in. slot where the skateboard rests to remove any burn marks made at the router table.

Cut wall mount boards

Cut two cherry wall mount boards 3 inches wide x 24 inches long. Measure and mark down the center of each. Using a router table equipped with the same 3/4-in. straight bit, route a 1/8 inch deep channel down the center of both wall mount boards.

Cut the rosewood inlay

On the table saw, cut a 3/4-inch wide strip of the 1/8 inch thick rosewood. After cutting the width, use a miter saw to cut six pieces of rosewood, each measuring three inches long.

Dry-fit the pieces

Three rosewood inlay pieces will be placed between two support arms on each of the wall mounts. Before gluing, lay out the inlay pieces alongside the arm supports to confirm their positions.

Glue and clamp rosewood inlay pieces

Apply wood glue to each piece of rosewood and clamp them down. Allow the wood glue to dry for 24 hours.

Predrill holes for arm supports

After the wood glue has dried, remove the clamps and turn the wall mount boards over so the backside faces up. Pre-drill two pilot holes spaced roughly three inches apart in each of the openings between the inlayed rosewood where the arm supports will be attached. Use a drill and countersink drill bit to make sure the heads of the screws sit flush on the back of the wall mount boards.

Drill installation holes

With a countersink drill bit, drill countersink holes 1/2 inch below the bottom arm support and 1/2 inch above the top arm support. These holes are where the skateboard wall mounts will be secured to the wall.

Smooth the wall mount boards

Use a 1/4 in. round-over bit and a router to round the front edges of the two wall-mount boards. Then, using a combination of a random orbit sander and a sheet of sandpaper in your hand, sand all the surfaces of the wall-mounting boards smooth, beginning with 120 grit and progressing to 320 grit.

Secure the arm supports to the wall mount boards

From the backside of the wall mounts, secure the four arm supports to the wall mounts using 1-5/8 in. screws.

Apply polyurethane

Use a tack cloth to remove as much dust as possible from the two assembled skateboard wall mounts. After that, apply two coats of polyurethane, sanding between each coat. Follow the directions on the polyurethane label for drying time.

Hang the skateboard wall mount

Select the skateboard wall mount location. Once you’ve chosen the spot, level the first wall mount and secure it in place. This is done by fastening it through the two countersunk installation holes previously drilled above and below the top and bottom support arm. If possible, attach at least one skateboard wall mount side directly to the wall studs. If no studs are in the desired location, use appropriate drywall anchors to support both the mount and the skateboards hanging from it.

When installing the second skateboard wall mount, the distance between them depends on the width of your skateboard’s wheelbase, as the arm supports will be positioned between the wheelbase to hold the skateboard. The wheelbase measurement is the distance between skateboard trucks, typically between 13-1/2-and 14-1/2-in. for non-longboards.

I spaced the mounts out so there was an 8-1/2 inch gap between them (10-3/4 inch gap between the support arms). Use a tape measure and level to secure the second in place so that both are plumb and level to each other. Once the second wall mount is securely attached to the wall, slide your skateboard into the open slots and enjoy!

FAQ

What is the best wood to use for a skateboard wall mount?

A strong plywood such as Baltic birch or a hardwood like maple or cherry is best to use for a skateboard wall mount.

How long are skateboards?

The average adult skateboard is 32 inches long, and a kids’ skateboard is between 28 and 30 inches long.

Where should I keep my skateboard?

A dry place that is away from moisture and out of high-traffic areas is ideal for skateboard storage. Using a skateboard wall mount or rack indoors can keep it protected when not in use.

The post Create the Perfect Skateboard Display With This DIY Wall Mount appeared first on Family Handyman.

What Is Aged Wood?

Wood takes on that rustic look over time through the process of oxidization. Exposure to oxygen and light cause the surface of the wood to either darken or lighten, depending on the species. Moisture and exposure to the elements add to the process. That’s one reason barn wood looks so cool.

Always Start With a Test Board

Different species of wood will “age” differently, so make a test board using the type of wood you’ll be staining. Shown above are pine (bottom) and cedar (top). Make sure the wood is clean and dry before you begin. Rough-sawn cedar has a smooth and a rough side. The rough side is shown here. If the final project is going to be sanded for a smooth finish, make sure to sand the test board the same as the project board.

Iron Vinegar On Cedar

Here’s how to cheaply (and quickly) age wood and make it look old and gray. Just apply iron vinegar to fresh cedar lumber:

• Soak some steel wool in white vinegar for a few hours or a few days – the longer it steeps, the darker the aged effect will be. Fill the jar with the steel wool and vinegar; the measurements don’t have to be precise.
• Use 0000 steel wool so it breaks down even faster in the vinegar. Use a brush to wipe on the iron vinegar. Let dry.

Experiment with how long the steel wool is left in the vinegar. If you want an even darker finish, brush on a black tea wash before applying the iron vinegar (see the next slide for iron vinegar on pine).

Before and after

Left: New cedar lumber.

Right: New cedar stained with iron vinegar after 30 minutes.

Tea Plus Iron Vinegar On Pine

Iron vinegar, by itself, doesn’t have much of an effect on pine. Use a black tea wash first to get a grayer and darker effect:

• Boil water and add 2 black tea bags for each cup of water. Let steep for 5 minutes.
• Brush the tea onto the board. Let dry.
• Now apply the iron vinegar and let it dry. You’re done!

Benjamin Moore Arborcoat Semi-Transparent Stain

Many manufacturers make gray stains without using a steel wool and vinegar stain. We tried out Benjamin Moore Arborcoat. It’s made for exterior use and stinks until it dries, but it gives a beautiful silvery sheen to both cedar and pine. The results are fast and predictable (unlike iron vinegar).

• Brush the stain onto the board.
• Let it dry.

Before and after

Left: New pine lumber.

Right: Benjamin Moore Arborcoat stain applied to pine.

Pioneer Wood

Pioneer Wood is a patina that gives wood a “barn-door” style. It works quickly, darkening and aging the wood. Still, part of the process requires the wood to sit outside in the weather after application. This is pine that was aged for two days, so if you want it darker, leave it outside longer.

• Dissolve powder in water. Let sit for 5 min.
• If you’re using cedar, that’s all you need to do. If you’re using pine, it will need to sit outside to mature the patina.

Before and after, cedar

Left: New cedar lumber.

Right: Cedar with Pioneer Wood stain.

Before and after, pine

Left: New pine lumber.

Right: Pine after application of Pioneer Wood stain – aged outdoors for two days.

Minwax Weathered Oak

Minwax Weathered Oak darkens the patina on pine slightly, but on cedar, it gives a soft gray overall tone with gold in the grain. You might have to apply it more than once to achieve the look you want. Results for this project can look very different than what is shown on the label, so be sure to test it first.

1. Brush the stain onto the board.
2. Let dry.

Before and after, cedar

Left: New cedar lumber.

Right: Cedar lumber with Minwax Weathered Oak stain.

The post How To Age Wood: 5 Easy Ways To Get That Weathered Look Without Waiting appeared first on Family Handyman.

MDF (medium-density fiberboard) is inexpensive, durable, and a good choice for many woodworking and carpentry projects. Learn how to use it to make full frame cabinet doors.

The post How to Build a Full Frame Cabinet Door with MDF appeared first on Family Handyman.

Woods like cherry, pine and birch can become blotchy and unattractive when stained, unless you use a sealer before staining. For the best results, test the possible finishes on scrap pieces before you start.

The post How to Stain Wood Evenly Without Getting Blotches and Dark Spots appeared first on Family Handyman.

Learn how to create a decorative edge to a piece of wood with a router.

The post How to Create a Decorative Edge with a Router appeared first on Family Handyman.

Whitewashing is a great way to add a little farmhouse style to any project. Check out these three simple ways to whitewash wood.

Read more about this project, here.

The post 3 Simple Ways to Whitewash Wood appeared first on Family Handyman.

Learn how to make beautifully flat and perfectly true wood from rough-sawn lumber. This video is referred to in The Family Handyman magazine, May 2011, Shop Rat, Flattening rough-sawn wood, on page 78.

The post Planing rough-sawn lumber with a jointer and planer appeared first on Family Handyman.

One-Inch Stop Block for Multiple Cutoffs

To get furniture-grade crosscuts, you must use a table saw. When woodworking enthusiast Travis Larson crosscuts a whole pile of short pieces to the same length, he clamps a specially dedicated block of wood to the table saw fence. It’s an old standard carpentry measuring trick, but the difference is that his block is laminated for easy sliding. More important, it’s exactly one inch thick.

He clamps the block on the fence and adjusts the table saw fence gauge to the desired length, plus one inch, and saws the pieces. The one-inch thickness eliminates any head-scratching and mistakes from using any old scrap block. For safety, he positions the block so the work piece he’s cutting loses contact with the block before the cut begins. That all but eliminates any chance of kickback.

Add Fractions Fast

Math is integral to carpentry measuring, but sometimes handling fractions correctly feels daunting. However, adding 1-13/16-in. to 3-3/8-in. (or any other fractions) doesn’t have to hurt. Just line up two rulers or tape measures side by side and read the answer instantly, with complete accuracy. It works for subtraction, too — just read the numbers in the other direction.

Circle Gets the Square

Here’s a magical way to trace arcs and circles for project parts. Tap two finish nails at the ends of a desired diameter, then rotate a framing square against the nails while holding a pencil in the square’s corner. Spray the underside of the square with silicone or rub on some paraffin so it’ll glide smoother. Then practice a little to get the feel of the three-point contact technique.

Copy Center Project Patterns

Enlarging scaled-down woodworking patterns to full scale is a lot of work, and the results are rarely accurate. But you don’t have to go through that exercise anymore. Just about any full-service copy center will do it for you in a couple of minutes for just a few dollars.

Cut the pattern to the actual length of the drawing. Ask to have it enlarged to the size called for in the dimensions. The copy center magician will spin a circular gauge to determine the expansion percentage and punch that info into the copier. In less than a minute, the full-size pattern will roll out. Stick the pattern directly to the wood with spray adhesive, double-faced tape or masking tape and cut out the part. That’s it!

Dead-Center Drawer Handles

Here’s a quick and easy way to perfectly center drawer handles and pulls and mark them for drilling. Use a straightedge and light pencil lines to mark diagonals from the corners of the drawer face to pinpoint the center. That’s all you’ll need for a single screw handle.

For handles with two holes, adjust a try square to the center point and scribe the horizontal handle line. Divide the handle hole spacing (usually three or four inches) by two and mark the drill holes on the line on either side of the center.

Improved Marking Gauge

Marking gauges come with a little metal pin that scratches a line on the wood, but it’s hard to see the fine line when you’re working. So woodworker Ken Collier drilled out the pinhole and stuck in a pencil. Now it works great for tracing cutting lines on rough boards and laying out screw hole positions along cabinet edges.

Mark, Don’t Measure

This carpentry measuring tip might seem counterintuitive, but give it a shot. Holding trim in place and marking it is always more accurate than measuring, often faster and eliminates mistakes. This is good advice for other types of carpentry work too, like siding, laying shingles and sometimes even framing.

Marking Gauge

Here’s a nifty way to trace cutting or drilling lines on work pieces: First drill a 1/8-in. pencil hole one inch in from the ruler end of a combination square and adjust the square to the desired dimension. Then stick in the pencil and pull the square along the board edge to trace the line. Be careful to drill a hole that’s only a smidgen larger than the pencil point. You’ll be able to speedily produce straight, crisp lines for all kinds of jobs.

Carpentry Measuring Memory (or Lack Thereof) Trick

Stick masking tape to your tape measure for jotting down shapes and numbers. That way you won’t forget the length on the way to the saw.

Perfect Keyhole Template

When you’re installing a wall hanging that has keyhole slots on the back, create a template to help you position the wall screws. Lay a piece of paper over the slots and do a pencil rubbing a la Sherlock Holmes. Level and tape the guide to the wall. Mark the top of the keyholes with a nail and your screws will be in perfect position.

Slant-Ruler Board Divider

Want to divide a board or sheet of plywood perfectly in half, into thirds or any other equal fractions? Here’s a great old carpentry measuring tip that’s worth revisiting. To halve the board, line up the end of a ruler or tape measure on one side. Slant the tape to read 8-in. on the right edge and make your mark at 4-in. To divide it into thirds, slant the ruler to read 9-in. and mark the board at 3-in. and 6-in.

The key is to select a measurement that’s easily divisible by the number of spaces you want. For example, if you want to cut a sheet of plywood into six sections, use the 60-in. mark on your tape measure. Measure at a 90 degree angle from one side to each mark to get the real numbers to transfer them wherever you need them.

Testing Table Saw Miter Cuts

An easy way to test whether your table saw is set to 45 degrees is to cut off a short length of your trim, then hold it to a square. A gap means your angle is off.

Set the Blade Depth Before Cutting

Determine the blade depth by unplugging the saw and holding it alongside your board with the blade guard retracted. Then loosen the depth-adjusting lever or knob and pivot the saw’s base until the blade extends about 1/4-in. to 1/2-in. below the board. Tighten the lever or knob and you’re ready to saw.

Easy Framing Formula for Carpentry Measuring

You don’t need a math degree to estimate framing materials for walls. Here’s a formula that works every time, no matter how many doors, windows or corners your walls have:

• One stud per linear foot of wall;
• Five linear feet of plate material (bottoms, tops and ties) per linear foot of wall.

It will look like too much lumber when it arrives, but you’ll need the extra stuff for corners, window and door frames, blocking and braces. Set aside the crooked stuff for short pieces.

The post 14 Handy Hints That Will Make Measuring Easier and More Accurate appeared first on Family Handyman.

Plan Your Route

Before you lift anything, plan your route, advises Nick Valentino of Bellhop, a company that operates in 27 states. “Especially when moving large furniture items, it’s essential to figure out the route from its starting point before you start,” Valentino sats. “This will give you the chance to clear any obstacles, measure any tight doorways or corners, and get people out of the way.”

Your measurements may reveal that it’s easier to go through a back door — or even a window — than it is to try to muscle a large, heavy item through an undersized front door, especially one that opens onto a stairway. Thinking out of the box can save your back for another day.

Plan Where It Lands

If you’re moving to a new house or apartment, decide beforehand which furniture will go where. Before you move, sketch a floor plan with the correct measurements of each room, measure your furniture and create your layout. Then, as you move things in, you (or your helpers, if you’re not there) can place your furniture in the correct spot and not have to touch it again.

To make it easy on the movers, tape a copy of the plan to the wall of each room so people can tell at a glance where things go.

Carry Tall Items High and Low

Forget about handling a tall dresser, filing cabinet or shelving unit by yourself. It’s a two-person job.

Tip the item backward at an angle and have one person carry the top while the other carries the bottom. This centers the weight and keeps the item from swinging out of control. Transporting the item up or down stairs is easier too, since the carrying angle will roughly match the slope of the stairs.

‘Hook’ Chairs Around Corners

Rachel Long from The Moving Site calls this technique the “Hook Around.” When moving a large easy chair, turn the chair on its side, so it looks like an “L” and move it back-first through the doorway. Then curl it (hook it) around the door frame and slip it through. “This works with large tables that cannot be taken apart as well!” says Long.

If you’re moving into an earthquake zone, it’s a good idea to use furniture anchors after placement of the moved furniture to make sure it stays put.

Stand Couches on End

When you have to maneuver a couch down a hallway and through a door, you may find it almost impossible to carry it horizontally and turn it into the room. Here’s what to do: Stand the couch on its end before you enter the hallway and slide it to the doorway. You’ll almost always be able to use the Hook Around method to get it through the door. If it’s a bit taller than the door opening, tilt the top away from the door. That should gain you several inches of clearance.

Use Furniture Carrying Straps

Moving and lifting straps (aka shoulder dollies) take the weight off your back by relying on leverage and large muscle groups. They also leave your hands free to maneuver awkward items. Look for lifting straps that can be adjusted for different-length objects as well as for different-size movers.

Shoulder dollies can be tricky to use on stairs because the weight shifts completely to the downhill mover, but they’ll definitely help you conserve energy on straightaways.

Don’t Carry or Drag—Slide

You can buy furniture slides in many shapes and sizes at home centers or online. It’s also easy to make your own sliders from plastic container covers, Frisbees, bedspreads, moving blankets, towels and carpet remnants. Use hard plastic sliders for carpeting and soft, padded sliders for hard flooring.

“It’s important to plan for transitions,” advises Valentino. “Combining sliders with moving straps will make it much easier to switch sliders when you transition to a different type of flooring, or to get things out the door and into the truck.”

Protect Furniture With Blankets and Plastic

Moving blankets are invaluable for protecting the items you’re moving and the walls. They are cheap to rent, but for just a few dollars more, you can buy several at a home center or your local U-Haul rental outlet. (You’ll find many other uses for them.)

To prevent damaging the finish and fragile edges of dressers, tables and other furniture, wrap the items completely with moving blankets and secure the blanket with stretch film. A 20-in. x 1,500-ft. roll of stretch film costs about $20 at home centers and moving outfitters.

Make a Mattress Sling

Mattresses are floppy, heavy and difficult to carry. Many have handles, but their actual purpose is to help you position the mattress, so they’re not very strong. “Flimsy or foam mattresses can be rolled or folded (taco-ed) and taped or stretch-wrapped in place to make carrying quite easy,” says Long. But you need a different solution for full-size, heavy mattresses, and here it is:

Make a simple rope sling that will give you and your helper a lot more control. Thread the rope through the mattress handles, slip a five-inch piece of one-inch PVC pipe over the rope ends and then loop and tie each end to create a comfortable sling grip. Flip the mattress over so the sling is on the bottom, and you’re on your way.

Cut and Fold a Box Spring

Is your box spring too big to fit in your stairway or around a tight corner? Use this simple technique to fold it without wrecking it:

1. Remove the fabric covering (the most tedious part of this whole process is removing the staples) and place the box spring face down.
2. Pull back the mattress cover along each side and cut through the frame just to the left or right of the middle crosspiece (don’t cut through the crosspiece itself). Do this on both sides and in the center.
3. You can now fold the box spring like a book as shown and move it. Secure it with a strap to prevent it from springing open.
4. Put it back together by screwing a 1×2 along the center crosspiece cuts and against the inside of the outer frame to reinforce them.
5. Staple the fabric covering back in place.

Take Apart What You Can

When you’re lugging a sofa through a doorway, remember: You can always make it a few inches smaller by removing the feet. The same principle applies to any piece of furniture you need to make sleeker or lighter: Take off any and all knobs, drawers, shelves, racks and legs.

“Taking furniture apart is a good idea,” says professional mover Elliot Helm, “but a step people often forget is labeling the hardware or snapping a quick photo before disassembly. It’s a small thing that can save a lot of frustration when it’s time to reassemble everything.”

Take the Back Off a Recliner

A recliner can be of the most problematic pieces of furniture to move, but not if you disassemble it first. Here’s how:

1. Find the back brackets on the outside or inside of the back frame.
2. Lift the locking levers on both sides (you may need to use long-nose pliers) and slide the back straight up to remove it from the recliner.
3. Tie the footrest in place, so it doesn’t spring open.

Always lift a recliner from the sides, not by the back or footrest.

Remove Doors

Sometimes, an extra half inch is all it takes to get through a doorway, and you can get that and more by taking the door off its hinges. If you think this is a big job, relax. Here’s all you need to do:

1. Close the door so it will be supported inside the jamb when you remove the hinges.
2. Remove each hinge pin by poking a 16d nail into the bottom of the hinge and tapping the nail with a hammer to dislodge the pin. You can also wedge a flat-head screwdriver under the head of each pin and tap on the screwdriver to dislodge the pin.
3. Grab the door on both sides and pull gently. It should fall into your hands. Set it aside.
4. Replace the door by setting it back on the hinges and tapping in the hinge pins with a hammer. I’m used to doing this by myself, but heavy doors are lot easier to hang if you have a helper.

Remove Door Stop Molding

If removing the door doesn’t open up enough space, pry off the door stop molding using a small pry bar. That will give you another three-quarters of an inch.

If you’re worried about replacing the door stop trim after the move, don’t be. The section of the jamb from which you removed it will probably be unpainted. Just position the trim on the unpainted area and nail it back into place. If you’re careful when removing the trim, you should even be able to reuse the nails.

Get a Dolly

“One essential tool for any move is a dolly or hand truck,” says Valentino. “These are great for stacks of boxes and items like filing cabinets, dressers, and appliances.”

Long adds: “We love appliance dollies. They are bulkier and taller than a standard dolly to accommodate larger pieces. They also come equipped with guard rails and moving straps to keep the piece secured.” If you don’t have an appliance dolly, there’s no need to buy one. You can rent one from any tool renal outlet or from your local U-Haul.

Use a Furniture Lifter for Heavy Pieces

A furniture lifter is like a jack for furniture. It has a flat blade that you can slide under the piece you’re lifting and a long handle that operates a hydraulic pump to lift it.

Long is definitely in favor of these back-saving tools. “Furniture lifters are a fairly new product for moving. They help make deadlifting furniture to place sliders or moving dollies underneath way easier.”

If you have to move something really heavy, use the lifter to elevate one end, then slide a length of heavy-duty pipe underneath it. Do the same at the other end, then insert a pipe in the middle. Now you can roll the piece along the floor, transferring the pipe that emerges from the rear to the front as you go.

Protect Furniture with Corner Guards and Foam

When you’re lugging large or heavy pieces of furniture, it’s almost impossible to avoid bumping into things. “When it comes to protecting walls and door frames, adding corner guards or foam padding could make a big difference,” says Helm. They are a great alternative to blankets, which can be bulky and add weight.

Fit corner guards onto the corners of square or rectangular items and tape foam onto the edges. Foam pipe insulation is perfect for this — you can even use it on round table tops. If you don’t have to worry about damaging the furniture you’re moving — or the walls — you’ll find carrying it much easier.

Use Ramps

For anyone who knows how to move furniture, ramps are essential equipment, whether you rent them or build your own out of plywood and 2x4s. Set one up on the porch stairway, and you can wheel heavy items down the stairs instead of having to carry it. When you rent a moving truck, a ramp usually comes with it, but when you’re using your own pick-up, you’ll save a lot of heavy lifting with a ramp that extends from the tailgate to the ground.

Transport Mirrors and Plate Glass with Suction Cups

Pros use suction cups to carry glass, and so should you. They provide a handle, so you can avoid holding the glass from the bottom edge, which can potentially cause injury if you bump into something and the glass breaks. Plus, I just find it a whole lot easier on my back to use a handle set at a convenient location than it is to bend down, slip my hand under a heavy piece of glass, then hoist it to carrying height.

Zip Tie Plastic Moving Bins

Once you’ve got the heavy furniture handled, there’s still the small items like electrical cords, small appliances and, of course, your personal belongings. If you use plastic bins to move these, you’ll probably encounter the pesky problem of having the lids pop open mid-move.

Prevent this with inexpensive zip ties. Just drill holes in the handles, slip a zip tie through the holes in each handle and pull it tight. When you get to your destination, and you’re ready to unpack, just cut the ties with a utility knife.

About the Experts

• • Nick Valentino is the Vice President of Marketing Operations at Bellhop.
  • Rachel Long has been in the moving business for seven years. She is the founder of The Moving Site, a dynamic moving-related website.
  • Elliot Helm is the owner of Sterling Interstate, a locally-owned small moving company based in Phoenix, Arizona.

The post 20 Tips for Moving Furniture appeared first on Family Handyman.

This loft bed design maximizes the area between the mattress and floor, offering customizable bedroom storage solutions like drawers, shelves, and, in our case, a retractable desk.

Built in collaboration with cabinet maker Ethan O’Donnell, the headboard, footboard, mattress frame, dresser, and cubbies were all constructed separately and then assembled at the end to form the final product. Here is a step-by-step explanation of the process.

Before we begin

There are a few common themes throughout this build. Instead of reviewing them every time, I laid them out beforehand.

• Everything was finished beforehand. You may have noticed that I always pre-finish my materials to make touch-ups and finishing touches easier. The components were all primed, painted, and polyurethaned prior to assembly.
• The plywood edges were edge banded with iron-on edgebanding. We cleaned up the edges of the edge-banded plywood with a file, chisel, and sandpaper and painted them throughout the process.
• Filling nail and screw holes and touching up paint are also procedures that were completed throughout the building process rather than waiting until the end.
• The joining method was the same. Except where otherwise noted, all parts were set using wood glue and 1-1/2-in. brad nails and secured with pre-drilled and countersunk 1-1/2-in. screws.

Mattress Frame

Cutting List

* – 45° angled cuts at each end. Cut to fit.

Build the mattress frame

The exact size of your mattress will determine the width of your mattress frame, which will, in turn, determine the width of the footboard and headboard. Make this measurement with a tape measure. Don’t go by what is stated on the box mattress website or packaging, as you’ll quickly learn that those aren’t exact.

Make the inside dimensions of the mattress frame 1-1/2-in. wider and longer than the actual mattress dimensions. Join the long sides(A) with the short sides (B) using wood glue, nails and screws.

When the glue has dried, install angled gussets (C) in the four corners and a center slat (B) that runs down the middle of the frame, flush to the bottom edge of the sides (A and B).  These pieces will keep the mattress frame square and sturdy.

Cut the plywood bottom pieces to fit into the mattress frame. Because of their size, you will need to cut them out of two separate sheets of plywood.  Nail and screw the bottom (D) into place, securing them to the gussets (C) and the center slat (B).

Dresser

Cutting List

Build the cabinet

This loft bed project features a straightforward dresser build with a unique design. In addition to the pull-out desk, the dresser has two bottom drawers on casters that can be completely rolled out from the cabinet.

Cut all of your parts for your dresser. Take the dresser sides (A) over to the table saw to cut dados.

With your dado blades set to the plywood thickness, cut the dados and rabbets at the dimensions in the image above on the dresser sides (A). I prefer 1/8-in. deep dados to ensure perfect alignment yet not compromise the integrity of the side pieces. After all your dados have been cut, cut a 3/4-in. wide x 3/8-in. deep rabbet along the back edge of the shelf (B) and two sides (A).

Install the dresser stretchers (C) and shelf (B) flush to the front edge of the sides. Secure the back stretchers (C) flush to the shoulder of the 3/8-in. rabbit along the back edge.

Slide in the dividers (D, E, F), and secure them so they are square and centered along the shelf (B) and stretchers (C).

Install the back (G) into the rabbet along the back edge of the shelf (B) and two sides (A), making sure it is a tight fit and that the back is cut square. Glue, screw, and nail it into the rabbet on the sides (A) and shelf (B), and into the back edges of the stretchers (C) and dividers (D, E, F).

Make the drawers

Cut a 1/2-in. wide x 1/4-in. deep dado, a 1/2-in. up from the bottom edge of the drawer sides (J) and drawer box fronts (K) for top four drawers. For the bottom two drawers that are going to be on casters, cut the same 1/2-in. wide by 1/4-in. deep dado, except make it 2-in. from the bottom edge of the drawer sides (J) and fronts (K).

Using thick CA glue and brad nails, nail together the drawer box fronts (K), sides (J), and backs (L, M). Be sure the edges of the drawer backs are flush to both the top edge of the sides and top shoulder of the dado cut into the sides.

Once the glue has cured, slide the drawer bottoms (N) into the dados (with a little wood glue in them) and put a couple of nails through the bottom side of the drawer bottom into the bottom edge of the drawer backs (L, M).

Install the drawer slides and casters

When choosing drawer slides, I look for three things: durability, affordability, and foolproof installation. Hence, I chose to use bottom-mount drawer slides.

Install the drawer box side of the slide so that the end is flush with the front edge of the drawer box. On the cabinet side of the slide, install it so it it sitting on the stretchers and there’s a 1/16-in. gap between the front edge of the slide and the cabinet’s front. Since the dadoes run along the entire length of the dresser sides (A), we can ensure that the stretchers (C) are aligned, which will, in turn, align the slides. For these slides, it is crucial that the drawer box is one inch smaller than the opening in the casework and that the divider (D, E, F) and dresser sides (A) are parallel.

Rigid rubber casters support the bottom two drawers so they can be completely rolled out of the cabinet. Considering the drawer bottoms (N) on the bottom drawers are recessed two inches, and the casters are 2-1/2-in. tall, the casters will hold the drawer box a half inch off the ground. It is important that these casters are rigid non swiveling casters. Nail small guide strips along the lower cabinet divider and bottom openings of the cabinet sides to ensure the drawers stay aligned.

Once you are sure that the drawers slide smoothly, take them out and round over the top edges of the sides (J), front (K), and back (L, M) with a 1/4-in. round-over bit in the router, fill nail holes, and touch up polyurethane on all six drawer boxes.

Build the desk

The desk is constructed from a large piece of plywood (P) and a single leg comprised of two uprights (Q) and three stretchers(R), all glued and pocket screwed together. The leg is attached to the underside of the plywood desktop (P) with a piano hinge, which allows the desk to be folded up and inserted into the opening at the top of the dresser.

In the dresser opening, two 1×2 runners (H) have been screwed into the shelf (B) along the sides, and drawer slide friction tape has been applied to all surfaces that come into contact with the underside or legs of the desk.

The desk simply folds up and slides in and out of the opening. There is a 1×4 stop block (S) that was screwed to the plywood desktop’s (P) back edge at installation, so it can’t slide all the way out. The most important aspect of this desk is the friction hinge attached to the bottom and the inside of the leg of the desk in order to prevent the leg from slamming down during setup and pinching the user’s fingers.

Install the drawer fronts

The drawer fronts are laid out with a 3/8-in. gap along the floor to ensure the bottom drawers won’t get caught up on the rug and 1/4-in. gaps between all the other surrounding drawer fronts and the cabinet sides. This means that the drawer fronts (U, T) and upper opening faces (V) will overhang the center dividers (D, E, F) and stretchers (C) by 1/4-in. and the dresser sides (A) and top stretcher by 1/2-in.

Prepare the drawer box fronts (K) by predrilling holes inside all of them. Using strong two-sided tape, adhere the drawer fronts (U, T) to the drawer box fronts (K) and screw them in place through the drawer interiors using one-inch screws.

Start with the grey bottom drawer fronts (U) and work your way up to the upper yellow fronts (T) and upper opening faces (V). Cut 1/4-in. spacers to create the gaps on the sides of the cabinet and between the drawer fronts and upper openings.

Attach the upper opening face (V) on the right side of the dresser with glue and Brad nails. The face (V) on the left, to the front edge of the desktop (P) with glue, nails and screws. A plush carpet or rug may require a larger gap between the bottom drawer fronts (U) and the floor for the bottom drawers with casters to operate.

Cubbies

Cutting List

Assemble the cubbies

The dado joints cut into the cubby sides (A) are identical to those cut into the dresser sides, except that an additional rabbet along the bottom edge (of the same depth and width as the rest) is present. To align the dividers (B, C), I also cut a 3/4-in. wide by 1/8-in. deep dado down the center of both sides of the middle two cubby shelves and down one side of the top and bottom shelves (D).

Assemble the cubbies by attaching the four shelves (D) to the bottom rabbet and three dados in the cubby sides (A).  In the top dado, attach the stretcher (E) so that you’ll have something to nail the false cubby opening face (F) to after everything is edgebanded.

Next, add the dividers (B) between the shelves (D) with the short divider (C) on the bottom. Attach the top (B) and bottom (C) dividers first so you can nail through the shelves (D) into the divider above or below it, and toenail the center divider in place. The cubby back (G) is just butted against the back of the case and secured to the sides (A), dividers (B, C), and shelves (D).

Footboard

Cutting List

Assemble the footboard panel

On a large work surface layout the footboard (A) and ladder (B) plywood panels and the panel stiles (C) and outer ladder rail (D). Lay them face down and mark the locations for biscuits. Separate the pieces and cut your biscuit slots using a biscuit joiner so that the back edge of the stiles (C) and rail (D) are flush with the back edge of the plywood panels (A, B).

Once the biscuits have been cut, glue the footboard panel (A) and two stiles (C), as well as the ladder panel (B) and outer ladder rail (D) using wood glue and clamps.

Build the ladder rungs

Make the three ladder rungs out of the treads (E) and front (F) and rear supports (G). Attach the rear support (G) flush with the tread’s (E) back edge and the front support (F) so that the tread (E) overhangs it by 1/4-in.

Build the ladder

Glue the assembled rung through its rear support (G) into the plywood ladder panel (B). Space them apart so the tops of each rung are 12-in. apart. Attach the ladder rails (D) so that they align with the front ladder supports (F) on the rungs of the ladder with glue and three-inch screws. When securing these, ensure the top of the tread (E) is perpendicular to the back ladder panel (B). Then, glue the ladder panel (B) with attached ladder and rails to the headboard panel using wood glue, biscuits, and clamps.

Trim out the footboard and ladder

Attach the ladder bases(H) and ladder caps (J, K) so that they align with the ladder rails (D). For proper spacing, attach the ladder cap spacer (L) to the top of the ladder panel(B) between the center panel stile (C) and the left ladder cap (K). Connect these components with glue and three-inch screws, ensuring the top of the tread is perpendicular to the back ladder panel.

Complete the footboard by installing the top and bottom trim on the ladder (M) and footboard panel (N) . Next, attach the top caps to the ladder (P) and footboard panels (Q). Place them so that they overhang the backside of each panel by 3/4-in. and the ladder side by 1/2-in.

Headboard

Cutting List

* – 45° angled cuts at each end. Cut to fit.
** – Mitered top edge.

Build the headboard case

Build the headboard box out of the top cap (A), sides (B), and base (C). The top cap overhangs each side by 1/2-in.

Next, inset the headboard back (D) flush with the back edge of the top cap (A), sides (B), and base (C) and secure it to these components.

In the headboard shelf (E), cut a dado slightly wider than 3/4-in. x 3/8-in. deep. Position it 3/4-in. from the front edge to accommodate the sliding doors (F). After the dado is cut, install the headboard shelf (E) with the dado facing up 8-9/16-in. below the bottom of the top cap (A).

To prevent the headboard shelf (E) from bowing over time, attach the vertical support (G) centered on the bottom of the shelf (E). Connect this piece to the shelf (E), back (D), and the base (C).

Next, install the gussets (H) with mitered ends at the bottom corners of the headboard between the sides (B) and the base (C). These will provide strength and serve as a place to secure the bed pieces together during assembly.

Install the sliding door and partitions

Rather than run a stop-dado on the bottom side of the headboard top cap (A), I chose to build the upper guide for my sliding door out of two 1×2 guides (J). The front guide will be secured on its edge to the headboard cap (A) and the back guide on its face.  There should be a gap between the two guides (J) that is the same width (a little over 3/4-in.) and aligned directly above the dado you cut in the headboard shelf (E). This alignment is crucial for your doors (F) and dividers (K) to fit in and operate correctly.

Following the installation of the upper door guides, notch the two dividers (K) around the back guide rail (J) and install them in the headboard shelf (E) to create three evenly spaced openings (roughly 18-in. wide).  Secure these to the top cap (A), headboard shelf (E), and back (D) for strength.

To install the doors (F), rip a 45-degree miter along its top edge. Next, slide the doors into position by sliding the mitered point into the gap between the upper guides (J) and pivoting the bottom into the headboard shelf (E) dado from inside the headboard cabinet.

Assemble the loft bed

Cutting List

* – 45° angled cuts at each end. Cut to fit.

Make angle brackets

Make five angle brackets for the loft bed assembly. Connect two angle bracket sides (A) together to create an “L.” Then, attach the angle bracket gusset (B) to stiffen the “L” and hold the two legs exactly 90-degrees from one another.

Piece the bed together

Remove the drawers from the dresser and join it to the cubby unit by lining up the front edges and screwing the cubby (cubbies part A) and dresser sides (dresser part A) together using clamps to hold them in place. Pre-drill the holes using a counter sink bit and secure it with 1-1/4-in. screws, being careful not to poke the screw through the other side. Screws should be placed on every shelf level, one towards the front and one further back.

Align the front edge of the dresser side (dresser part A) with the left side of the headboard (headboard part B). Pre-drill 1-1/4-in. screws from inside the dresser side (dresser part A) into the side of the headboard (headboard part B) and the gusset (headboard part H) that is mounted there.

Using 1-1/4-in. screws, attach the cubby unit to the footboard by screwing through the inside of the cubby side (cubbies part A) into the back of the ladder panel (footboard part B). Drive these in at an angle or use a right-angle drill or attachment to seat these screws. We also attached the back of the cubbies (cubbies part G) to the back of the footboard panel (footboard part A) using the angle brackets we built in the last step at the top and bottom of the cubby unit.

For level installation of the mattress box, secure support legs (C) at the far ends of the headboard and footboard. Attach these with glue and three-inch screws flush to the back outside edge of the headboard side (headboard part B) and footboard stile (footboard part C). Between the support legs (A), attach the cross brace (B) along the floor and secure it to the back of the footboard panel (footboard part A), as well as the gusset (headboard part H) and base of the headboard  (headboard part C), using a couple more of those homemade angle brackets. Last but not least, install a vertical support (C) in the center of the cross brace (B). Screw it directly into the cross brace (B) at the bottom and use a final homemade angle bracket at the top to tie it into the mattress frame’s bottom center slat (mattress frame part B).

Once the bed is completely assembled, jump up into the mattress frame and sink a few screws through the short sides of the mattress frame (mattress frame part B) into the headboard and footboard in locations that will be hidden once the mattress is installed. Before installing the mattress, the last thing to do is to lock the entire bed into place by attaching the back, long side of the mattress frame (mattress frame part A) into a wall stud or two at its final location.

Finishing touches

For a striking contrast, paint the lower section of the loft bed in a different color (in this case grey) at the line of the lowest drawers. Tape off the line using a level and delicate surface painter’s tape.

For the best seal at the tape line and to prevent paint bleed, secure the tape and paint the tape edge with the base color. Allow it to dry, and then paint the lower section in the desired color. This will prevent the other paint color from finding its way under the tape and causing the need for detailed touch-ups.

Finally, install the pulls to the drawer fronts (dresser parts T and U), faces (dresser part V), and headboard doors (headboard part F).

FAQ

What is the difference between a captain’s bed and a loft bed?

A key difference between the two is the height and the type of space utilization. Traditionally, a captain’s bed (or storage bed) is a standard bed frame that is designed to maximize space in smaller rooms by incorporating storage directly into the frame. Loft beds, on the other hand, are usually raised much higher and create an entirely new usable area beneath the sleeping surface, which makes this bed the a mix of both worlds.

How tall are loft beds?

The height of a loft bed ranges from 36 to 75-in. The key dimension with loft bed height isn’t how high the sleeping surface is off the floor but rather how high the sleeping surface is from the ceiling. For an adult, this should be at least 33-in.

The post Elevate Your Space: Building the Perfect DIY Loft Bed appeared first on Family Handyman.

Account for Wood Movement

Sure, wood’s a pretty tough material all around, but it’s still highly susceptible to temperature and moisture fluctuations from the surrounding environment. This phenomenon, known as wood movement, can result in contraction and expansion across the grain. When humidity is high, wood absorbs moisture and swells. When humidity drops, wood shrinks.

The movement is gradual, but it can cause big problems in your woodworking projects, so you have to account for it in your woodworking projects. There are several ways to do that, some of them depending on the type of project and where it will sit once finished. The most important tactic for dealing with wood movement is to let it sit and acclimate in your shop. The time can vary depending on the size and thickness of the lumber and whether or not its kiln dried.

Learn to Sharpen Tools

You can have the best tools in the world — but if you don’t sharpen them regularly, they’re useless. Different tools require different methods for sharpening them.

Learning how to sharpen chisels is a good place to start for beginner woodworkers.

How to Use a Hand Plane

A hand plane is a great tool for woodworking projects, large and small, and its definitely a skill you should have learned how to handle in shop class.

Here’s a quick refresher: hold the plane at a slight angle to the wood and plane along the same direction as the wood grain whenever possible. Planing against the grain will cause the blade to catch and tear or splinter the wood.

Understand Nominal Dimensions

For many of us, the moment we learned that a 2×4 board is actually 1.5-in. x 3.5-in. was simply mind-blowing. The reason for the contradicting measurements is that the board has been planed down to eliminate irregularities. At one point, many years ago, 2x4s actually were 2-in. x 4-in., but their rough surfaces made them difficult to stock and handle. The old terms, such as 2×4 or 4×4, are still used, and are known as the “nominal” size of the board.

Nominal sizes are still used simply because they’re easier to say and they stick to tradition. Now, most big box stores list the nominal size, as well as the actual sizes of lumber. Here’s a quick guide to help you keep track of nominal vs. actual lumber sizes.

Fix Miter Joints

In shop class, many learn the satisfying skill of cutting a miter joint that closes up perfectly and maintains a true 90 degree angle. If your miter skills are rusty, here’s a quick fix for a slightly open miter joint: rub the shank of a screwdriver along the miter at a steep angle, from both sides of the joint. Chances are, you’ll be the only one that knows it wasn’t perfect to begin with.

Easy Nail Pilot Holes

Often when you’re nailing small finishing nails into moldings or other projects, the nail will split the wood unless you drill a pilot hole first. However, tiny drill bits have a habit of breaking after just a couple of uses.

So rather than using a drill bit, drill the perfect-sized pilot hole using the nail itself. Simply clip the head off the nail with lineman’s pliers for thicker nails or wire cutters for thinner nails; then place the headless nail into the drill. Drill the hole with this nail pilot hole hack, and then drive in a nail. Voila.

Make Table Saw-Quality Rips With a Circular Saw

Even if you own a table saw, sometimes it’s easier to rip large sheets of plywood with a circular saw. The trick to a perfectly straight cut is to clamp a straightedge to the plywood and use it as a guide for your saw. On most circular saws, the distance between the edge of the saw’s base and the blade is 1-1/2 in., so you can simply position the straightedge 1-1/2 in. from your cutting line. But measure this distance on your saw to be sure.

You can buy a straightedge or use the factory edge of a plywood sheet. If your straightedge only has one straight edge, be sure to mark it to avoid using the crooked side.

Choose the Right Circular Saw Blade

As long as they’re sharp, any of these four 7-1/4-in. circular saw blades will make smooth rip cuts in plywood and reasonably good crosscuts. In general, the more teeth, the smoother the cut. The disadvantage of the 140-tooth plywood blade is that the teeth will dull much faster than the teeth on the three carbide blades. This is especially true if you cut particleboard. The 40-tooth carbide blade is a good all-around blade. However, if you have a project that calls for a lot of fine cuts in expensive plywood, don’t hesitate to buy the special 56-tooth laminate-cutting blade.

How to Glue Wood

Gluing wood is a basic woodworking task that you should’ve learned in shop class, but mastering it can be a little different. Check out our tips on how to glue to wood so you don’t get stuck with a mess.

How to Clamp

Gluing goes hand-in-hand with clamping, so your shop class should’ve taught you how to clamp as well. But to ensure your gluing goes well, consult our tips on how to clamp with ease.

The post 10 Basic Woodworking Lessons You Should’ve Learned In Shop Class appeared first on Family Handyman.

I grew up with parents who love music.  Dancing was a favorite pastime in my household, and my mother still has an extensive album collection to this day.  If you haven’t noticed, those old-school vinyl records are back in vogue. Now that they’re considered cool again, there’s been some huge growth in LP record player sales.  As I looked over my mom’s old albums, I thought it would be cool to figure out a nice way to display them. With that goal in mind, I began to tinker around with how to make a wooden crate with a vinyl record display.

If you’ll allow me to get on my DIY soapbox: I truly believe that once you know how to make a box, you can make a million things. Let’s make it a million and one with this hip and a bit retro wood record crate.

Project Overview

Cutting List

Overall dimensions: 16-1/2″w x 16-1/2″h x 17-1/4″d

Cut the wood

For this project, I found some 5/8-inch thick walnut wood boards at the lumber yard. If you cannot find any similar boards, you may wish to run 3/4-in. boards through a thickness planner or drum sander to get to 5/8-inch, or simply construct the project using 3/4-inch thick material. Keep in mind the latter will alter some dimensions on the cutting list.

Cut wood slats (A, D), trim pieces (B, C), and album ledger (E) out of the walnut lumber using the table saw and miter saw.

Build the front and back panels

Assemble the front and back panels using clamps to hold the five slats (A) tightly together while you nail trim pieces (B) at the top and bottom using wood glue and 18ga. brad nails. The trim pieces are essentially holding the panel together, so make sure both ends of all the slats are flush for a tight seam against the trim pieces.

Repeat this process twice to create two panels: one for the front and another panel for the back of the record crate.

Build the side panels

Mirror the process in step two to create side panels by tightly squeezing six slats (A) and securing them with the side trim pieces (C).

Again, repeat this process twice to create the two side panels.

Run the panels through the drum sander

Run the completed panels through a drum sander to ensure they are flat and the same thickness. I didn’t take much off, maybe 1/32-inch or so. Make sure the last pass on each panel is set at the same thickness. All nails be sunk below the surface of the wood to prevent damaging the sandpaper roll on the drum sander.

Join the panels to create a square

Use 18ga. brad nails and wood glue to join the four sanded panels together to make the sides of the wooden crate. Flush the bottom edges of all four panels as you put them together. The front and back panels will have slats horizontally oriented, and the slats on the side panels will be vertically oriented, making them taller to accommodate space for a handle.

Nail on the bottom

Using wood glue and 18ga. brad nails, install the bottom slats (D) one at a time on the inside along the bottom edge of the crate. Use clamps to help squeeze the slats tightly together as you go.

Rout the handles

Route a handle opening on each of the vertically oriented side panels using a router with a pattern bit (a straight-cut bit with a top bearing) and an acrylic template.

Position the handle placement centered on the acrylic on the panel with the top of your handle 1-1/2-inches down from the top edge. Use a pencil to trace the outline of the handle in the desired position before you start routing.  If the template moves while using the router, you can put it back in the exact location. Always use clamps to secure the acrylic template while working with the router. Three points of contact with the clamps will ensure the acrylic template stays put with the router’s vibrations.

Introduce the router bit to the wood through a pre-drilled 5/8-in. hole in the center of the template opening. Slide the bit through the hole and set its depth to ensure the bearing will ride along the template without the cutting blade damaging the template and the cutting edge. It is crucial for safety that the router bit is not in contact with wood when turning the tool on.

After the handle material has been removed, go back and soften the edges using a 1/4-in. round-over bit followed by some 220-grit sandpaper.

Install album ledger

Install the album ledger (E) at the bottom of the front panel with wood glue and 18ga. brad nails. Its purpose is to catch and hold the album when you slide it in behind the vinyl record display plexiglass.

Cut and drill the plexiglass

Cut the plexiglass (F) to the exact outer width of the front panel and the height from the top of the ledger (E) to the top edge of the front panel.  Cut it to size on the table saw.

Once it is cut, lay the plexiglass on the front panel and determine where the stand-offs will be positioned.  Place the bottom stand-offs one inch up from the bottom of the crate and 3/8 inches in towards the center.

Place the top stand-offs one inch down from the top of the front panels and 3/8 inches in toward the center of the crate. Make sure the screw for the stand-off will go into the side panel and not protrude out the back of the front panel.

To ensure the exact placement of the stand-offs through the plexiglass and into the wood, pre-drill holes in both materials at the same time. Use a small 1/8-inch tapered or plastic drill bit to pierce both. Then, using a 5/16-in. tapered or plastic drill bit, enlarge those pre-drilled holes in the plexiglass to accommodate the top portion of the stand-off.

Fill and oil

Touch up all the nail holes and imperfect seams with wood filler. Allow it to dry, and sand it back with 320-grit paper.

Apply two coats of walnut oil to the entire record crate, rubbing each coat with a cotton rag. Allow the oil to soak in overnight. Sand back any raised grain or fuzz from the rag with 320-grit sandpaper and repeat the process, applying two more coats.

Install the stand-offs and acrylic glass

Unscrew the top portion of the stand-offs and set them aside with their plastic gaskets. Secure the bottom portion of the stand-offs by screwing them into the wood at the previously pre-drilled locations.

Position the plexiglass over the holes of stand-offs. Place plastic gasket under and above the plexiglass – sandwiching the plexiglass between the gaskets and the metal pieces of the stand-offs. Thread the upper portion of the stand-off through the holes in the plexiglass and secure it to the bottom portion.

Install rubber feet

Install rubber feet or cabinet bumpers on the underside of the record crate so it won’t slide or scratch any surfaces it is set on.

FAQ

What is the difference between acrylic glass and plexiglass?

Acrylic glass and plexiglass are one in the same— two names for the same material, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA). Think of it this way:  Plexiglass is a trademarked name, just like Kleenex is to tissue.  PMMA is a synthetic resin known for being transparent, lightweight, and durable. Often used as an alternative to glass for lower costs and higher durability. Acrylic Glass is different than polycarbonate.

Does storing records flat-warp them?

The uneven distribution of the weight of the records can cause them to warp. In addition to causing them to warp, flat-storing your records also makes it more difficult to find and access the records you wish to listen to.

The post Show Off Your Records with This DIY Wooden Crate Display appeared first on Family Handyman.

Circles are difficult to create. Whether you draw them by hand or try to achieve that perfect circle with a tool, they are not always easy, especially when it comes to wood. I tell all my clients that curves and circles always cost more—time and money—until your world opens up to a router circle jig, also known as a trammel arm.

A router circle jig basically sets the center point and allows you to make a circle with whatever you put at the other end of it, sort of like a compass. A pencil, a jigsaw, a router can all work well to make a circle with a trammel arm jig.  I used to dread making circles until I found out I could attach my wood router to a jig. Let me make your woodworking life easier and certainly much more pleasant by sharing the steps to making this simple woodworking jig.  You may not need it often, but when you do, you will be happy to know how to make it!

Remove the router base plate

Unscrew the plastic base plate (also called a shoe, running plate, or sub-base) to remove it from the wood router.

Rip the plywood

Rip a long strip of plywood the same width as the baseplate. Then use the router base plate as a template to lay out the bit location and screw placement on one end of the plywood strip.

Determine length

Decide how long you want to make your jig. This is the step that takes a little thought and foresight. A 24-in. jig can rout a 48-in. diameter circle and any diameter smaller by moving the pivot location. Make your jig length half of the largest diameter circle you envision yourself cutting plus three inches measured from the center of the bit location mark to the far end.

Cut the jig shape

If your base plate has a radius, cutting out the shape with a band saw or a jigsaw is a nice touch, though not required. I suggest tapering the length of the jig slightly, as it seems to make it easier to maneuver and reduces the area where sawdust can build up under it. It doesn’t have to be much, just an inch or so along each side from the base plate to the far end.

Drill all the holes

Drill the holes for the four router screws. Mark the hole placement with a nail set for the exact location. With a counter sink bit, drill the holes from the bottom side of the jig, ensuring they are drilled deep enough so that the screw head is countersunk below the surface of the plywood.

On the opposite end of the jig, still on the bottom side and 1-1/2-in. from the end, drill a 1/4-in. hole to accommodate your 1/4- 20 x 1-in. bolt for the knob.  With the 1/4-in. hole drilled, use a 5/8-in. bit to drill part way through the plywood to counter-sink the head of the bolt below the plywood surface.

Finally, drill out the bit location hole to match the hole in the router base plate. This hole diameter can change depending on the router you have. I used a 1-3/8-in. Forstner bit to drill the hole marked from my router base. This hole allows the router bit to come through once the router is secured to the jig. 

Soften the edges

Using a random orbital sander, sand back any kerf marks and tearout along the jig’s edge made while drilling and cutting. Then, round over all of the edges, both top and bottom of the jig, using a round-over bit with a bearing installed in your router.

Wax the circle cutting jig

Use furniture wax to lubricate the bottom side of the plywood jig. This promotes a smooth glide as it rides along the work surface when routing your circles.

Assemble the circle cutting jig

Set the router base plate aside in a safe location. Attach the router to the jig via the base plate screw holes. You may have to purchase longer screws depending on how thick the plywood is that you used for your jig. Attach the knob via the 1/4-in. bolt hole to the other end of the jig. Ensure the screw and bolt heads are tightened so that they are below the surface of the jig as not to scratch your projects as you rout.

How to cut circles with a router circle jig

You are now ready to cut a circle using your jig. Here is how to proceed:

1. Determine the radius and center point of the circle you would like to cut on your workpiece.
2. Insert a straight-cut bit into the router.
3. Measure the distance between the innermost part of the straight-cut router bit up the length of the jig, the same distance as the radius of your circle, and mark the position.
4. Drill a hole in the jig at the mark and insert a nail or screw that is the same diameter as the hole. Your jig’s pivot point has now been established.
5. Nail or screw the pivot point fastener into the circle centerpoint on your workpiece.
6. If possible, start and adjust the router in a location away from the workpiece. Use the depth adjustment on the router to lower the bit and make passes of 1/8-to 1/4-in. at a time. Change the bit’s depth with every pass until your circle is routed.If the layout of your circle will not allow you to start and adjust the router in a location where it is not touching the workpiece, you’ll need to do a plunge cut. Plunge cuts are where you start the tool and introduce the spinning bit to the workpiece by plunging it in. To avoid damaging the workpiece or creating a potentially dangerous situation, the router should be started with the bit clear of the material.

How to cut an arch with a router circle jig

A circle-cutting jig can also be useful when cutting arches. Arches are cut in the same manner as circles, with the exception of where the router bit lands during the process of cutting. When cutting circles, you should place the router bit groove around the outer edge of the circle. An arch, however, should have the groove inside of it. That said, when routing an arch, instead of measuring the distance between the innermost point of your router bit and the pivot point, measure from the outermost point of the bit to ensure it lands inside the arch.

FAQ

How big can I make a circle with a Router Circle jig?

A circle cut using a router jig can be as big as you make the jig. You will need to ensure you can run the length freely. I have seen eight-foot circle cutting jigs to make huge circles.

Can I make a Router Circle jig out of something other than wood?

Yes! Many make their router jigs out of acrylic or polycarbonate. The longer you get with acrylic or polycarbonate, the thicker you will want your materials to avoid it from sagging or snapping in half.

The post Cut Perfect Circles Every Time With This Easy DIY Router Circle Jig appeared first on Family Handyman.

One of the most satisfying things I have learned is how to refinish wood furniture. I can’t begin to tell you how many pieces of furniture that were once someone else’s garbage have landed in my hands. With the right attention, approach and dedication, another man’s garbage can become your treasure.

The hardest part about restoring a piece of wood furniture is developing the patience to see all the steps through.  This is one DIY project you don’t want to rush, and it is highly unlikely you will get it done in one afternoon. Restoring old furniture is hardly ever straight forward, and a technique that worked for one piece might not work for another.  The trick is to know your options and then have enough knowledge to do the detective work and make an effective plan.

The steps are basic and easy.  Be patient and thorough, and people will think your refinished wood furniture is new!

Assess the condition

Take a good look at your piece of wood furniture from as many angles as possible. Use painter’s tape to pinpoint areas that will need extra attention, such as putty build-up or deep dings that will require extra sanding to even out. It is easy to overlook areas when the dust starts flying. Then, you will need to answer some questions to determine how you go about refinishing your piece of furniture:

Is the piece made out of solid wood, laminate, or veneered plywood?

A solid wood piece of furniture is one of the most forgiving and most suitable candidates for refinishing. With veneered plywood furniture, you need to be cautious when sanding, not to sand through the wood veneer. Laminate furniture is the worst candidate for refinishing because the plastic laminate won’t take sanding, stain, or paint well.

Are the joints solid, or do they need reinforcement?

If nails or screws are loose, secure them so no further damage is done while you are refinishing it. You want to work on a solid piece and avoid having a leg fall off while you are sanding. If it requires gluing, use clamps to get a tight fit and a paintbrush or screwdriver to push it down into any deep voids.

Is there a stain under the topcoat that you may have to match?

If you have stained wood under a topcoat or sealer, you will have difficulty doing a perfect color match. Stain and sealer colors change with age, making them yellow or even deepen in tone.  Therefore, it is very difficult to get an exact match. This would be the time to consider painting the furniture a solid paint color. If you choose to paint it a solid paint color, you may use all the following steps, but add a good coat of primer before proceeding with paint instead of clear sealer.

Is the current finish water-based or oil-based?

This is the most important piece of detective work you must uncover.  If the finish has a yellowing appearance, it is probably an oil-based finish. Also, if a piece of wood furniture was made before the 1980s, it is even more likely to be oil-based, as water-based clear sealers didn’t take off until then. The importance of this question lies in what paint, stain, or finish you plan to refinish it with. Water-based finishes can only go over water-based finishes, but oil-based finishes can cover everything.

Clean the surface

Remove all of the hardware and clean the surface using a solution made up of three parts water and one part vinegar. This will help break down grease and grime. Be sure not to use a heavily saturated wet rag; you want to wipe off the dirt and grime and not leave a lot of excess moisture on the wood. Allow it to dry well before moving on.

Focus on the extra attention areas

Start with deeper dings and scuffs and sand them smooth with 180-grit sandpaper. The goal is to sand back and even out chipped areas to achieve a smooth, even-looking surface.

Fill large dings and holes

If you have deep dents, dings, holes, or voids that can’t easily be sanded back (or are through the veneer on plywood pieces), fill these areas with wood putty.

Color match the putty to the species of wood you are refinishing. Pine, walnut and oak colors are available on the shelves at large home centers. Most experienced refinishers mix colors of putty to achieve the tone they desire. You won’t know the exact color until it’s dry, so give yourself the time to do a test sample when the color matches.

Once you have the color ready, build it up so there is excess putty in the ding. Putty often shrinks as it dries. Allow it to dry, and sand it back to create an even surface.

Add teeth to the surface

Use 220-grit sandpaper to lightly scuff the entire surface of your furniture.  Sand the flat parts of the furniture with the flat side of a scrap block of wood wrapped in sandpaper, and go over any profiles with a rubber profile sanding block or sanding sponge.

The purpose of this step is to ensure your new finish has what is called “teeth.” This is the place where the new finish can bond with, hang on to, and blend with your old finish. Without adding “teeth” to the surface, the new finish may peel over time. The goal is not to remove the entire finish, so use a light touch when sanding.

Remove the dust

Before applying the first coat of finish, you will want to remove all dust from the surface. Start with an air nozzle attached to an air compressor to get the bulk of the dust off the surface. Then, to remove the fine particles, use a tack cloth.  Tack cloths can be found in the paint department at hardware stores or home centers.

Apply new finish

Apply the new finish with a quality brush.  You will be applying at least two to three coats.  Allow each coat to dry completely before moving on to the next. Between the first and second coats, sand the entire surface with 320-grit sandpaper, concentrating on any raised grain. After the second coat, use 000 steel wool in between additional coats of sealer.

Before applying each coat of finish, make sure the furniture piece is dust-free at every stage. Don’t be surprised if you want to add a fourth or fifth coat of finish before it looks and feels good. A build-up of oil-based finish will also help conceal some of the areas you had to sand deeper.

Install new hardware

To complete a full makeover on a wood refinishing project, install new cabinet hardware, including knobs, handles, pulls, or hinges.

FAQ

Can you refinish furniture without stripping or sanding?

You can absolutely refinish furniture without stripping it.  You will always have to do some bit of sanding when refinishing furniture.

What’s the difference between stripping and sanding wood furniture?

Stripping removes all finishes, leaving the wood in close to a natural state where pores and grain are no longer clogged with a sealer. You will be able to apply a new stain color if you strip the wood. Sanding will most likely leave sealer or paint in the pores or grain or the wood, meaning you will build up on the finish that is already there. You wont’ have a successful new stain application if some of the sealer is left behind.

Is it better to sand or strip wood furniture?

The decision to sand or strip wood furniture is determined by the condition of the wood and what you wish the finish to be. If you wish to restain it a different color all together, then you must strip it. If you wish to revive the surface and it doesn’t have a previous stain under the sealer, then you can sand a reapply a sealer.

What kind of furniture cannot be refinished?

A plastic or manmade laminate will not be a good candidate for refinishing because the sealer or paints floats on the surface as opposed to penetrating into the wood.  Making it easily scratched and chipped.

Is it cheaper to refinish or replace wood furniture?

It is less expensive to refinish wood furniture than to replace it.

The post How To Refinish Wood Furniture appeared first on Family Handyman.

Most people think of a lazy Susan as a simple round circle spinning on a table.  However, in my mind, the form a lazy Susan takes can truly be up to its creator. I decided to make a DIY lazy Susan and take the concept to a whole new level by making it a charcuterie board.  These days, it seems like everyone is caught up in a charcuterie craze. Charcuterie boards are being served up everywhere. Restaurants, parties, events… all seem to offer a combination of fruits, nuts, cheese, crackers and cured meats served on a wooden serving board. However, I have yet to see a spinning Lazy Susan Charcuterie board.

The way I approached the steps makes this project almost DIY fail-proof. First, you will see how easily the charcuterie board-style tray takes shape with the help of an acrylic router template. Then, I will share the secret to installing a Lazy Susan Mechanism, and I am certain you will be amazed at how easy it is. Get the nuts, fruit and cured meats ready while we DIY our way to presentation, presentation, presentation!

Set up the router template

Cut the wood slightly larger than the acrylic router template, which at its widest point is roughly 12-inch x 8-inch.

Place the acrylic router template on the piece of wood and position it where you like it. Use a pencil to outline the template so you have an established starting position. Secure the wood and router template to your worktable with clamps so it doesn’t shift while routing.

Bore out the pocket sections

Before you can run the bearing along the template, you must clean out the wood in each section of the tray. Do this in increments, with the router set to a depth where the router bearing can ride along the template.

Use a straight-cut router bit to bore out the pocket sections of your tray. Introduce the moving router bit with a plunge cut. Keep the router’s shoe flat to the template and avoid tipping it. Straight-cut router bits do not have a bearing to guide them, so it’s extremely important to be very cautious about damaging the acrylic template by getting too close to the router bit while boring out the center.

Try to get as close as possible to the edge of the template without nicking it. This will be the biggest challenge to this whole project. This step is only meant to crudely remove the bulk of the material before you refine the shape of the lazy Susan later on with the acrylic template and bearing bit.

Rout the pocket sections

With the bulk of the wood removed from the center of each section, you will now change to the bowl bit with the bearing to finalize the pattern using the template.

Whenever working with a router bit with a bearing and a template, set the depth of the router bit so the bearing rides along the profile of the template. Test the depth on a scrap of wood first. At all costs, prevent the router shoe plate from dipping into the center of the pockets, as this will create dings in your wood — which will later need to be evened out.

Rout the outside profile

With the inner tray sections routed, you will now work on the outer edge of the tray along the acrylic template. If excess wood is removed as close to the edge of the acrylic template as possible, routing the outer edge will be much easier. That said, trim outside the template with a band saw or jigsaw to save you time and effort.

Starting from the top face of the tray and using the pattern bit with a bearing at the top, rout the outer edge of the template, running the bearing along the outside edge of the acrylic template. Adjust the placement of the clamps so you don’t run into them as you work your way around the piece.

When the outside top edge has been routed, switch to a flush trim bit with a bearing on the bottom. Secure the tray face down and follow the profile you made when routing from the top.

Round over the edges

With a 1/4-in. round-over bit, round over all the edges along the top and bottom of the tray’s outer profile. When rounding over the top, be sure to keep the router base plate riding flat along the top of the section divider wall, without letting it dip into the sections.

Clean up the pocket sections

Use a rotary tool with a carving bit to clean up any uneven spots left behind by the router on the top edge and bottom of the interior sections. The goal is to create a consistent texture, even out bumps and divots in the bottom of each section, carve off burn marks from interior walls, and produce a hand-carved feel.

Sand everything

Sand everything by hand—top and bottom, as well as inside each section. Start with 150 grit, then 220 and 320 to ensure a smooth surface throughout the whole tray. Sanding by hand will prevent over-sanding an edge, making it uneven or drastically changing the shape. This is also your opportunity to eliminate any other tool marks that you may come across.

Oil the tray

Using food-safe walnut oil to condition the wood, apply several coats to finish the tray. Lightly sand with 320-grit sandpaper between coats of oil to get a really smooth finish.

Cut the base of the lazy Susan

Cut the base of the lazy one inch larger than your lazy Susan mechanism. For a 4-inch x 4-inch mechanism, cut your wood 5-inch x 5-inch. Cut 45-degree angles one inch in at all four corners. Be sure the dimensions of your base will not be visible under the top tray when it spins. This is particularly important when dealing with rectangles where one end is longer than the other.

Layout lazy Susan hardware screws

Find the center on the base piece of your lazy susan and mark the placement where the screws will be secured.  The easiest way to find the center is to draw an “X” from the midpoint of your 45-degree angle cut to the midpoint of the 45-degree angle cut on the opposite corner. Place the screw holes to line up with the “X” line. Mark the screw holes with a pencil. Then remove the mechanism and use a nail set to create a starting point for your screws to be installed and not lose position.

Mark and drill access hole

On the base, spin the mechanism a quarter turn to access the screw holes on the lazy Susan’s upper plate. Mark the location where one of these upper plate screw holes lines up on the base. Drill a single 3/8-in. hole at this mark to access the upper plate screws when you join the tray to the base of the lazy Susan.

Assemble the lazy Susan

Apply a coat of walnut oil to both wood pieces with a clean shop rag. Make sure the coat is thorough around the marked screw locations on the base and tray.

Center and mark the placement for the location of the upper plate screws on the bottom of the tray. With both the base and the top marked for screw placement, start with securing the base to the lower plate of the lazy Susan mechanism using 1/2-in. screws.

Then, place the tray face down and position the wood base with the lazy Susan mechanism centered on the bottom of the tray. Secure 1/2-screws into their marked locations with a hand screwdriver through the 3/8-in. access hole. Ensure screws are well-seeded and do not pierce all through the wood and into the routed sections of the tray. Work your way around the base, spinning the base to find each screw placement through the access hole.

Install the knobs (optional)

To install knobs on each end of the tray, cut off the head of the screw provided with the knobs. Determine the center position on the edge, and drill a hole slightly larger than the screw thickness. Using CA glue, fill the pre-drilled hole and insert the screw so the end you didn’t cut is sticking out of the side. Wait a few minutes for the glue to cure, and screw the knob on until it is flush with the wood.

Apply one last coat of walnut oil

Once everything is assembled, apply one last coat of oil. Allow the oil to penetrate for 12 – 24 hours before using the lazy Susan.

FAQ

Why is it called a lazy Susan?

It is unclear why the lazy Susan is called that. Some rumors suggest that Thomas Jefferson invented it for his daughter, Susan, who often complained that she was always the last to be served at dinner. Another is that Susan was the generic name by which wealthy property owners addressed their maids in the 1700s.

What makes a sealer/oil food safe?

Volatile organic compounds make some finishes unsafe for food handling. Especially, if those sealers have not fully cured before being used with food. If a cutting board or other project smells like varnish or some other kind of chemical, you can be sure it is not food safe. To double-guarantee your finish is food safe, purchase a product that is specifically designed for food handling.

The post How To Make a DIY Lazy Susan appeared first on Family Handyman.

There’s an interesting scientific reason for this unusual cleaning method to restore your wooden furniture to its former glory.

Does Mayo Remove Water Stains?

Often, yes. Mayonnaise can effectively remove water stains from wood surfaces. The success of this method lies in its composition. Its primary ingredients—oil and egg yolks—work together to address the underlying causes of water stains.

The oils in mayonnaise penetrate the wood, displacing the moisture that caused the stain. Meanwhile, the fats help to condition the wood, potentially restoring its natural luster. The vinegar or lemon juice often present in mayonnaise can also help to break down any mineral deposits left behind by the water.

How to Remove Water Stains With Mayo

Materials: You’ll need mayonnaise, a soft cloth, and a clean, dry towel.

Step-by-step

• Thoroughly clean the surface area: Gently clean the stained area with a damp cloth to remove dust or debris.
• Apply the mayonnaise: Spread a thick layer of mayonnaise directly onto the water stain. Make sure to cover the entire affected area. Allow the mayonnaise to remain on the stain for at least an hour. For tougher stains, you may want to leave it overnight.
• Wipe off the mayonnaise: Gently wipe away the mayonnaise using a soft, clean cloth.
• Buff the area: With a clean, dry towel, buff the treated area to remove any remaining oil residue.
• Assess the results: Check if the stain has disappeared. If it’s still visible, you may need to repeat the process.
  • If needed, you can apply furniture polish to restore shine and protect the wood.

@astr33t

How to get Water spots off of wooden surfaces using Mayo! #lifehacks #mayo #cleaninghacks #cleaningtiktok

♬ Little Things – Adrián Berenguer

Does This Method Always Work?

This viral trend has been attempted online many times with varying results. Some swear by the technique, while others claim it didn’t have any effect. That will depend on several different factors, including the wood types, damage significance and any user error.

Remember, while this method is generally safe for most wood finishes, it’s always wise to test it on an inconspicuous area first. If you’re dealing with sentimental, valuable or antique furniture, consider consulting a professional before attempting DIY treatments.

The post Removing Water Stains With Mayo: How To Do It appeared first on Family Handyman.

If you enjoy spending time with friends and family as much as I do, you know having a bar at home makes entertaining that much easier. Having all your beverages and accessories within reach and well-organized will make your social gatherings stress-free. So, why not make it yourself? All your choices, personality, character and style. Here is to building a bar – Cheers!

A note about paint and stain

You will notice that this project contains both painted and stained components. When constructing woodworking projects such as this, I always paint and stain my parts before assembling them. This allows the project to be completed faster by just touching up paint and requires less taping off and cutting in. That’s why I’ll include the finish in the cutting list below.

The only exception to that rule is when a component requires a lot of machining (such as the wine rack on this project) and will require the pieces to be sanded before being put together.

Figure A: Wine Rack Overview

Figure B: Cabinet Overview

Figure C: Kickplate Overview

Figure D: Shelf Overview

Cutting List

Overall dimensions: 64″w x 44″t x 28″d

* – Before cutting 31.5° angle.
** – 45° miters on both ends.

Remove the bark on the slab

Purchase a flattened live edge slab roughly 1-1/2-inches thick or buy a thicker slab and flatten it yourself with a planner, wide belt sander, or router gantry.

Remove all the bark along the natural edge of your live edge bar top (A). You may find some of the bark is loose, and some of it may be harder to pull off. To remove the bark, use a chisel and enter along the edge of the cadmium layer, which is the innermost part of the bark but not the actual wood. Hammer at the chisel to pry away the bark. Don’t worry if it isn’t perfect at this point. You will come back and clean it up with a wire wheel and sanding pad later.

• Tip: Avoid cutting bark with your circular saw. It often has dirt and small pebbles embedded in it that will dull or chip the blades when cutting it.

Cut the live edge to size

Plan out the bar top dimensions first, as they determine the measurements for the rest of the build.

When determining the layout, look closely at the curve of the natural edge you plan to use. Use a large drywall “T” square and whatever other squares and straightedges you need to help you mark the sides to be cut. The natural edge will be the front of the bar top, and the back will be a straight edge. If your slab is already the approximate width, using the slab with a natural edge on both sides is okay.

Line out the desired dimensions for the bar top; for me, I went with 18-ish inches wide and 64-inches long. That would give me the six-ish-inch overhang on the front of the bar that I wanted. The sides must be perpendicular to the back line, allowing the natural edge’s front to hold the desired measurement and creating 90-degree angles at the back two corners.

Cut the slab to the desired dimensions of the bar top (A) using a track saw. First, make crosscuts for the sides. Before you cut the back line, make sure you have a perfect 90-degree angle along the back edge and on either side. The base of the bar is a square, and it will be visibly obvious if the back and sides are misaligned.

Clean up the slab

Once the bulk of the bark has been removed on the bar top (A), use a wire wheel and a 150-, and 220-grit sanding disc on an angle grinder to remove any excess layers and clean up the natural edge. Then sand the bar top and edges with a random orbit sander and 150-, and 220-grit sandpaper until the entire bar top (A) feels and looks uniform.

Cut and dado the wine rack pieces

In addition to the live-edge bar top (A), the other part of the bar build that will hold a fixed measurement is the wine rack because we are building it around a standard four-inch opening for the bottle compartments.

Use a table saw and miter saw to cut the wine rack shelf (B), dividers (C), and top/bottom (E) out of the aspen 1x12s. You’ll need to edge-glue and biscuit some pieces to cut the sides (D) from.

Using a router equipped with a guide and a 3/4-in. straight cut bit, rout a 1/4-inch deep dado centered down the middle of both sides of the shelves (B) and one side of the top and bottom (E).

Assemble the wine rack

Nail the shelf dividers (C) into the dados in the shelves (B) using an 18ga. brad nailer and 1-1/2-in. brads with wood glue. You’ll only be able to nail straight through the dado into the divider (C) on one side of the shelf (B). You’ll have to toenail through the divider’s (C) front edge on the other.

When the grid of dividers and shelves has been assembled, join them with the sides (D) and the wine rack’s top and bottom (E) with wood glue and brad nails. Use a speed square to ensure all the wine rack cubbies stay square as you nail.

Sand and stain the assembled wine rack and its unattached back (F). Apply the stain with a brush and wipe it back with a cotton painter’s rag. Set aside to dry before installing the back.

Build the cabinet boxes

Cut the plywood cabinet’s inside sides (H), angled sides (G), and top and bottom (J)out of plywood using the table saw and miter saw. Use wood glue and 1-1/2-in. brad nails and screws to assemble the boxes so that the outer sides mirror each other with the angles both facing the same direction. Use clamps and clamping squares to ensure the cabinet boxes are square.

Frame the kick

Out of the 2×4 material, cut the long kickplate frame pieces (K) and the short (L) to construct the kickplate box. The center of the center kickplate frame pieces (L) needs to be placed to line up with the seams of your wine rack and side cabinets (see Fig. C above).

Join the cabinets

Now it’s time to join the constructed wine rack, cabinet boxes, and kickplate and start to see this thing really come together. To do this:

• Place the completed kick plate framing on a workbench or set of saw horses.
• Place the completed cabinets and wine rack on top of the kick plate framing.
• Clamp the two outer cabinets and middle wine rack together so that their base and top and bottom edges are flush. Secure them together with countersunk 1-1/4-in. screws.
• When they have been adequately fastened using screws, remove the clamps and center the cabinet cluster on the kick plate framing so that it overhangs evenly by 1-3/4-inches all the way around except the back side of the shallower wine rack.
• Secure the centered cabinet cluster to the kickplate framing with countersunk 2 1/2-in. screws

Prep for the slab and shiplap

To add stability to the angled cabinet sides and give us a place to attach the slab bar top (A), glue and screw the horizontal cross brace (P) flush to the top and front edge of the angled cabinet side. To prevent sagging of the cross brace, glue and pocket screw the two cross brace supports (Q) flush to the front edge and side of the cabinet tops (J).

For later mounting the live edge countertop to the bar base, pre-drill pocket holes along the top edge of the angled cabinet sides (G) and horizontal cross brace (P). Ensure that there is at least 1-1/4-inches of wood left at the top of the pocket hole to seed the screw top in without it splitting or breaking through.

This is also a good time to scab in the foot rail support (R). The foot rail support (R) is cut out of 2×4 material and screwed into the cabinet inside sides (H) between the two front and bottom edges of the cabinets. This will give you something sturdy to install the foot rail center bracket to later.

Install shiplap on the bar

Wrap the cabinet in pre-painted shiplap. I chose to use primed pine shiplap because the inside of the boards are beaded, which would be a nice visual accent on the backside of the finished bar.

Cut and nail the shiplap piece by piece using one-inch brad nails. Start at the bottom, 3/4-inch lower than the bottom edge of the cabinets and work your way up, mitering both ends. Then, move on to wrapping the angled sides in the shiplap, mitering the joint where it meets the shiplap along the front and cutting it flush to the back edge.

Stop when you are two courses from the top to install the bar top.

Install the lower countertop

The lower countertop (S) was constructed out of two edge-glued 1x12s with a biscuit joint that was then cut to width and length. Slide it into place and mark where the cross brace support (Q) notches will be along the back edge. Remove it and cut them out with a jigsaw before attaching the countertop (S) to the top of the cabinets (J) and wine rack (E) with wood glue and 1-1/4-in. brad nails from underneath.

Install the bar top

Position the live edge bar top (A) by leaving a six-inch overhang on the front of the bar and a roughly 1-3/4-in. overhang on either side. Use 2-1/2-in. pocket hole screws to secure into place through pocket holes along the top edge of the angled sides (G) and horizontal cross brace (P). Once the slab is secured via pocket screws, install the two bar top supports (T) under the live edge bar top using 18ga. 1-1/2-in. brad nails. Nail them through the shiplap and toenail them into the lower countertop (S) and underside of the bar top (A) so they are evenly spaced (18-7/8-inches apart).

After the bar top (A) has been installed, nail the last couple of rows of shiplap in place to hide the pocket screws, knowing that you will have to rip the final row on the table saw to make it fit.

Trim out the bar

Cover all plywood edges and seams with glued and brad-nailed solid wood trim pieces. Because the thicknesses of plywood and shiplap can differ between style and manufacturer, these dimensions will be unique to each project.

Use painted 1×2’s to trim out the cabinet top and bottom, sides, and angles. Ensure to cut the 31.5-degree angle on the top and bottom of the angle trim pieces. When that is done, trim the inside sides of each cabinet with a 3/4-inch x 3/4-inch piece of painted trim.

Then, install the stained 3/4-in. x 3/4-in. trim pieces on the sides and middle of the wine rack and the short shelf trim pieces between them. Finally, install the long (M) and short (N) kickplate trim pieces that wrap around the kick plate’s front/back and sides.

Build and install the shelves

• Install the metal glass holders centered on the underside of the cabinet top (J) of the right-side compartment.
• Using wood glue and 1-1/2-in. brad nails, secure the shelf face trim (U) to the front edge of the plywood shelves (V) so that its one-inch side is facing forward and the top edge and the top of the shelf are flush.
• Glue and nail the shelf ledgers (W) on the inside of the angled side (G) and inside side (H) of the cabinets so that the bottom of the ledger is 12-1/8-in. from the bottom of the cabinet. The ledgers are level from front to back.
• Glue and nail the ledger face (X) that spans the shelf ledgers (W) so that it’s flush with the top and bottom edges of the attached ledgers.
• Place the shelves (V) on top of the ledgers (W) so the lip of the shelf face (U) overlaps the ledger face (X) and the shelf is flush with the back wall of the cabinets. Nail through the top of the shelves (V) into the ledgers (W) to secure it.

Fill, sand, touch up, and seal

Fill all visible nails and screw holes with wood filler. Allow it to dry, then sand the filler back and touch up paint areas with paint and even out the stained areas. Allow the touched-up paint/stain to dry.

Use a brush to apply two coats of satin polyurethane to all stained wood components and the sanded bar top (A). Allow the coats to dry, and sand back the raised wood grain with 320-grit sandpaper between coats.

Install the footrail

We ordered all of the foot rail components from Kegworks.com. Install the support brackets for the foot rail on the front of the bar, flush with the bottom edge of the shiplap. Pre-drill pilot holes and screw the top, outer holes in the outer support brackets through the shiplap and into the edges of the buried plywood angled sides (G) using 2-1/2-in. screws. The lower two screws on each bracket lined up on the 3/4-in. shiplap overhang, so I scabbed in a chunk of 1x material in those locations and screwed through that into the kickplate. The top inside screws on the end brackets were the only places where I couldn’t hit anything solid, so a short 1/2-in. screw was installed in these two locations strictly for looks.

The center support was easily installed into the 2×4 foot rail support (R) you secured between the cabinets.

Make sure the supports are aligned and level. Cut the foot rail to the desired length with a hacksaw, install the endcaps and feed it through the supports after they are installed. Finally, install the set screws to hold the foot rail in place.

FAQ

What is the standard bar height?

The standard bar height for a home bar is 42-inches, but that measurement can change based on your height and what you feel comfortable with.  The decision will also be contingent on the height of the bar stools chosen. Bar stools are most often found in 29- to 30-inches high.

The post How To Build a Bar appeared first on Family Handyman.

A little bit upscale and seriously cozy, boucle furniture is a lovely choice to soften contemporary decor styles. It helps that boucle furniture can be soft and comfortable, too. Learn more about boucle furniture and if it’s right for your home ahead.

What Is Boucle Furniture?

Boucle furniture is upholstered with boucle fabric, a textured material made of looped yarn. The textile is soft, dense, and cozy, often described as having a “nubby” texture.

In part, boucle furniture’s popularity is due to its welcoming and warm appearance, which can add dimension to modern rooms. “Boucle’s cozy, inviting texture complements a range of design aesthetics, particularly mid-century modern, Scandinavian, and minimalist styles,” explains Natane Boudreau, interior designer and founder of Studio Boudreau. “It works well with neutral color palettes and organic shapes, offering a balance between visual interest and understated elegance.”

Traditionally made with wool yarn, fabric options are also more plentiful nowadays, with natural and synthetic boucle available.

What Makes Boucle Furniture Different?

Boucle is one of many textured upholstery fabrics that can add coziness to a piece of furniture. Its “nubbiness” is really what sets it apart. Knobby loops of material make it more textured than smoother fabrics like microfiber, chenille, or velvet. It looks somewhat similar to sherpa and sheepskin fabric, albeit less fluffy, which actually works to its advantage.

Boucle tends to be easier to clean than these plush materials. A major benefit of boucle is that it isn’t prone to matting either, a common complaint with sheepskin or sherpa furniture. This is part of why boucle furniture has a decent reputation for durability, too.

How Much Does Boucle Furniture Cost?

Boucle furniture isn’t cheap, but it’s not eye-wateringly expensive either. Its reputation leans more high-end and luxurious. However, its popularity means it’s available at a reasonable price range as budget retailers try to keep up with trends.

It’s possible to find some boucle sofas under $1000 from retailers like Amazon or Wayfair, but you’ll find a lot more boucle couches in the $1000 to $3000 price range. That’s about the price you can expect from retailers like West Elm, Pottery Barn, Crate & Barrel, and similar stores that sell trendy furniture.

As expected, the smaller the piece of furniture, the lower the price tends to skew. So, a boucle accent chair will often be more affordable than a boucle sofa.

If you want to incorporate the material on a budget, opt for accessories instead, which tend to be the most cost-friendly. Boucle ottomans, poufs, and cushions can come with a lower price tag but still bring that cozy visual interest.

Is Boucle Furniture Easy to Clean?

Boucle is not the easiest to clean, but that doesn’t mean you should shy away from the material. It’s not easy to wipe it down like with leather and vinyl couches. However, it won’t hold onto crumbs and dirt as much as fluffier fabrics. Expect something in between. The fabric is pretty sturdy and vacuuming can help remove debris from the textured weave.

Boucle can be carefully incorporated into homes with children or pets. As Boudreau notes, “While boucle is fairly durable, its textured surface can be challenging to clean, especially in households with young children or pets.” She suggests considering placing boucle furniture in lower-traffic areas or opting for pieces with removable, washable covers.

Pantea Bionki, owner and lead designer at Bionki Interiors echoes the fabric’s durability, and recommends dark colors in dirt- or stain-prone areas. “Bouclé’s thicker weave and higher pile make it more durable, so it holds up well over time. Its texture also helps conceal dirt and wear, particularly in darker colors, making it a practical option for everyday use.”

Ease of cleaning can depend on material as well, so shop around according to your needs. Wool is naturally stain-resistant. Nowadays, there are durable synthetic options that are treated to be spill or stain-resistant. Some pieces, like couch and cushion covers, can also be washable.

Is Boucle Furniture Right for My Home?

If boucle furniture really catches your eye, you can find a way to use it in your home. It’s perfect if you’re looking for furniture that’s luxe and modern but also cozy and homey. Bionki notes, “Bouclé furniture is an excellent choice for those seeking comfort, texture, and an organic feel in their homes. [It] complements modern and organic design aesthetics, adding an element of softness and warmth to any space.”

Boucle furniture comes in various types and styles. It’s also available in many colors, though neutrals tend to be most popular. Even its texture can vary in its knobbiness, so there are many ways to incorporate it into unique home styles.

Since it’s not the easiest to clean, homes with young children or pets might want to stay away from using boucle furniture in high-traffic areas. In particular, think about how pets might react to the texture. The nubby loops are likely to catch on claws, causing damage to the fabric. It can prove irresistible to some cats, so if you have a furniture scratcher, keep that in mind.

Boucle accessories can be a great alternative to furniture, especially if you love the fabric but don’t want to invest in a furniture piece that kids or pets may damage. You can still make a statement with an affordable boucle cushion, boucle curtains, or a cozy boucle rug.

About the Experts

• Pantea Bionki is the owner and lead designer at Bionki Interiors. As a certified interior designer and home stager, she specializes in creating bespoke interiors, down to the finishing touches.
• Natane Boudreau is an interior designer and the founder of Studio Boudreau, an interior design and creative consulting company that aims to create spaces that are true to people’s authentic selves.

The post What Is Boucle Furniture? The New Trend, and What It Means for Your Home appeared first on Family Handyman.

Plane perfect deck spindles

Nothing jazzes up a rail quicker than custom-planed spindles. And planing rough-cut 2x2s into crisp, clean spindles is a great way to get familiar with your planer. I usually make 2x2s from wider 2×4 or 2×6 lumber. It allows me to get better-looking spindles with crisp, square edges. Rip the boards to about 1-5/8 in. This will allow you to remove the saw marks and still have about a 1-1/2 in. thickness.

Set the planer to remove about 1/32 in. and run a batch of 2x2s through. Reset the planer to remove another 1/32 in. and run them through with the opposite face up. When the width and thickness are the same dimensions, rotate the spindle a quarter turn and plane adjacent faces. Finally, lower the cutters 1/32 in. and plane the remaining two adjacent faces. Remember to stack the spindles consistently so you can keep track of which sides you’ve planed. It helps to mark one face on the end of each spindle as a reference.

Avoiding tearout

Tearout happens when you feed a board into the wood planer with the wrong end forward. The knives catch in the rising wood fibers and tear rather than cut them.

In some cases, you’ll be able to tell which end to feed into the planer by inspecting the grain (or to be precise, the direction of the fibers). When you’re planing the wide surface of the board, inspect the grain on the narrow edge. When you’re planing the edges, inspect the wide face. On rough lumber, you can feel the fibers by running your hand over the board. It will be smooth in one direction and rough in the other. Feed the smooth direction forward into the wood planer.

With some boards, you might get tearout in both directions. In this situation, the best approach is to take a small amount of wood off with each pass; 1/32 in. is about right.

Reclaim old wood

Woodworking planer purists will probably cringe at the thought of using a wood planer to recycle old wood. And it’s true that if you’re not diligent about removing fasteners and dirt from old lumber, you’ll nick the knives or dull them. But I figure the high cost of quality lumber makes it worth it, even if it means replacing a $30 set of blades once in a while.

The board shown in the photo is an old deck joist that was salvaged from the trash. Planing revealed handsome, vertical-grain redwood. The most critical step in reclaiming lumber is to inspect it carefully for screws and nails. In addition, remove dirt and grit from the board with a wire brush.

Tricks for stopping “snipe”

Snipe is a term used to describe the planer gouge that often occurs at the beginning and end of boards as they enter and leave the planer. Most new woodworking routers have a mechanism for locking the planer heads in place after you adjust the depth. This helps minimize snipe. But the best technique is simply to leave an extra 5 in. of length on your boards.

Cut off the snipe when you cut the boards to their final length. Another trick is to feed in a sacrificial board first. Then feed the next board in against the end of the first board and continue feeding boards end to end. Finally, feed in another sacrificial board. The planer will treat it as one long board and only snipe the first and last boards.

Clean up board edges

Stacking several boards side by side allows you to remove saw marks from the edges of ripped boards. This technique prevents them from tipping sideways. Another advantage of this method is that you can easily produce a pile of boards exactly the same width. Use this method to plane shelf nosing, face frame parts or the edges of any ripped lumber.

Sand out ridges

No matter how careful you are, you’ll eventually put a tiny chip in your planer knives. You’ll know by the telltale ridge left in your planed board. Short of buying a new set of knives, there are a few things you can do. On some planers, it’s possible to shift one of the knives slightly to offset the nicks.

It doesn’t take much offset to cure the problem. If this isn’t possible, don’t sweat it. It only takes a few seconds to sand out most ridges. In fact, most boards will require light sanding before finishing.

The post 6 Tips for Using a Wood Planer Like a Pro appeared first on Family Handyman.

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The best overall pocket-hole jig is the tried and true Kreg 720Pro. Kreg is a storied brand working since 1989 to perfect its pocket-hole jigs. While Kreg has been patenting jigs since the 90s, the 720Pro was released in 2021, and after 30 years of development and innovation, we feel it is truly the Cadillac of pocket-hole jigs. The 720Pro comes fully stocked, including the upgraded jig, onboard storage for all drills and accessories, a vacuum adaptor for integrated dust collection, and multiple bonus items, including a clamp, docking stations, free project plans, and 160 Kreg pocket-hole screws.

The jig is lighter than expected, with a solid build constructed with a steel frame and impact-resistant polymer. When testing, I took advantage of the unit’s upgrades, including the anti-slip grip, automatic material thickness setting ability, and vacuum attachment, differentiating it from older models. The automatic thickness measurer was helpful in my specific project when switching between one-by-two boards and plywood, saving me time manually switching my depth.

The thickness measurer works in tandem with the anti-slip grip to ensure the wood for your project stays secure so you can drill the best pocket holes every time. This tool allowed me to complete my project more efficiently while ensuring I had no issues with slipping or sloppy joints. The shelves I built with the 720PRO are the most secure, and I’m excited to use this jig for my future projects.

Item Weight: 7.9 lbs. | Item Dimensions: 13.56 x 9.25 x 6.81 inches | Material Thickness Range: 1/2″ to 1 1/2″ | Material Thickness Setting: Automatic Adjustment with Automaxx | Mobility: Bench-top | Dust Collection: 2 Position Dust Blade

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Best Budget Pocket-Hole Jig

Vevor Pocket-Hole Jig Kit

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The Vevor Pocket Hole Jig Kit may have been one of the biggest surprises throughout testing. I didn’t have as much hope for this jig since it was the least expensive option we tested, costing less than half that of the other jigs.

When testing, this jig surprised me with its solid build and outperformance of more than one of the pricier options. This bright orange jig has an aluminum alloy body and a stainless-steel extension rod that makes it light enough to be portable but still has enough weight to perform well. On my first use of this jig, I did have a slight learning curve in ensuring the bolts were fully tightened after adjusting for my material width.

After some adjusting, I got a solid clamp that resulted in smooth holes and tight joints for my shelves. The drill bit included with this jig was less sharp than others tested and would likely need to be replaced if being used for a larger project, but it produced clean holes for the smaller project I used it for. As a homeowner on a budget, I frequently find myself diving into new projects and buying the tools to complete them. When I started my woodworking journey, I purchased a different budget option, and after trying the Vevor Pocket Hole Jig, I’m upset I didn’t choose this one. While I have other jigs I use more due to their upgraded features, this is a great option for anyone who doesn’t want to break the bank.

Item Weight: 4.0 lbs. | Item Dimensions: ‎11.4 x 2.36 x 3.94 inches | Material Thickness Range: 1/2″ to 1 1/2″ | Material Thickness Setting: Manual Adjustment | Mobility: Portable

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Best Pocket-Hole Jig for Beginners

Wen Pocket Hole Jig Kit

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If you’re new to woodworking, the Wen Pocket Hole Jig Kit is our pick. The Wen Pocket-Hole Jig is a solid and reasonably priced jig that comes with everything you need to get started on your first woodworking project. From the actual unit (which is well-built) to its kit that comes with everything from a drill bit and mounting plate to an assortment of screws and hole plugs, it’s truly an all-inclusive option.

I used this unit without the mounting bracket as a portable jig for most of the testing, and it lived up to its high reviews online. I could easily adjust the thickness measurement and had a solid clamp in no time to start drilling. One thing I did notice with this unit was that it was very slippery on the bottom, making it a little more difficult to get a solid clamp. I mounted this jig to see if that would impact performance, and it was much more stable and gave me great results.

A feature of this jig I didn’t see as often with others was the ability to offset your hole width. This wasn’t necessary for my project, but if that’s something you may need for yours, it’s a nice option. Overall, I liked this jig. It’s a great starter pack and was great to have for drilling pocket holes and saved me when I was two screws short for my project.

Item Weight: 4.61 lbs. | Item Dimensions: 11.1 x 5.39 x 3.94 inches| Material Thickness Range: 1/2″ to 1 1/2″ | Material Thickness Setting: Manual Adjustment | Mobility: Portable or Mount to Bench

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Best Heavy-Duty Pocket Hole Jig

Drill Master Portable Pocket Hole Jig Kit

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The Drill Master Portable Pocket Hole is my pick for the best heavy-duty jig that we tested. This jig is made of solid aluminum and steel, making it next to indestructible and a great option for those looking for a long-term use jig. One of my favorite features of this pocket-hole jig is how sturdy it is when mounted. Throughout my testing, I noticed that many of the mountable jigs only came with two screw holes for mounting, which did work but allowed some wobble when used. The Drill Master comes with four holes placed strategically to allow for the most solid mount, which made using this jig much easier.

While using it as a portable unit, it was less solid but still a great tool. My only concern with this jig would be the provided drill bit. At some points, the bit seemed too big for the jig, which caused some friction on the unit and a less clean cut. I tested this jig with a different bit and didn’t have the same issue, so you may want to buy a backup bit if you’re going to purchase this jig. After adjusting the bit and mounting this jig, I was able to quickly and accurately drill clean and consistent pocket holes. This pocket jig doesn’t have all the bells and whistles, but it does a great job, and it’s built to last.

Item Weight: 4.59 lbs. | Item Dimensions: 9.5 x 5.0 x 3.5 inches| Material Thickness Range: 1/2″ to 1 1/2″ | Material Thickness Setting: Manual Adjustment | Mobility: Portable or Mount to Bench

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Best Bundle Pocket-Hole Jig

Milescraft 1327 Pocket Jig 400

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If you’re looking for a higher-end bundle to start your woodworking experience, the Milescraft 1327 Pocket Jig 400 is an amazing option. With one of the more solidly built pocket-hole jigs we tested and many additional features, this one is a great option for those looking to upgrade or who have a more heavy-duty first project.

The Milescraft 1327 Pocket Jig 400 kit has everything you need for woodworking. From an integrated storage drawer, optional mount, dust collector attachment, and high-quality drill bits, drivers, and screws, this kit has it all. I loved working with this kit and it’s likely my runner-up to best overall. It was a heavy jig that made drilling insanely easy.

The storage drawer helped me avoid losing everything and kept it in one easily accessible place, and I was impressed with the quality and usability of both the dust attachment and the included screws. Adjusting the clamp and drill holes was simple and easy, and the only thing I think this jig was missing was the ability to detach for mobile use. The Milescraft 1327 Pocket Jig 400 is a beast and an amazing deal and the best kit I’ve found.

Item Weight: 5.7 lbs. | Item Dimensions: ‎14.25 x 6.73 x 5.75 inches | Material Thickness Range: 1/2″ to 1 1/2″ | Material Thickness Setting: Manual Adjustment | Mobility: Portable or Mount to Bench | Dust Collection: Optional Dust Collection Attachment

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Best Pocket-Hole Jig for Small Spaces

Powertec Aluminum Pocket-Hole Jig Set

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The worst part about starting a new hobby is finding room for all your new supplies. Woodworking is no different and can take up a lot of space between the wood and the needed tools for your project.

Thankfully, the Powertec 71844 Aluminum Pocket-Hole Jig Set is a great option for those with little space. The Powertec 71844 is a versatile model with features that will make your life in a small workspace much more enjoyable. I currently do my woodworking out of my garage, which is not a small space – but I previously worked out of a small shed and always had criteria for new tools. I would look for tools with easy cleanup, a small storage footprint, durability, and versatility when possible and the Powertec checks all those boxes. While there were multiple units with dust ports, many were separate from the unit and something I likely would lose.

The Powertec has an integrated dust port that was not only connectable to my wet/dry vacuum but also was small enough to connect to my vacuum cleaner to minimize dust in my space. It’s a small but heavy unit that gave solid clamps and allowed me to drill clean and accurate holes. It’s easy to store with a minimal footprint and has the versatility of having a removable base stand for projects with a larger material thickness without requiring a second jig. The Powertec is my number one choice for those looking for a jig that can do it all in a small footprint.

Item Weight: 3.94 lbs. | Item Dimensions: ‎9.75 x 4.75 x 5.25 inches| Material Thickness Range: 1/2″ to 1 1/2″ | Material Thickness Setting: Manual Adjustment | Mobility: Portable or Mount to Bench | Dust Collection: Integrated Dust Port

What to Look for When Buying a Pocket-Hole Jig

When buying a pocket-hole jig, consider a few things before deciding which will work best for your project.

Jig Material

Pocket jigs are made with numerous materials ranging from plastic to steel. Depending on your project scope and budget, a lower-end plastic jig may work, but for something you’ll use often, it would be a better investment to purchase a metal jig.

Material Thickness Range

Before purchasing a jig, make sure it’s compatible with the wood thickness you’ll be using for your project. Most jigs can handle boards between ½” and 1½”, but some can handle boards outside that thickness.

Pocket Hole Diameter

When purchasing a pocket hole jig, you should be aware of three different sizes of pocket hole diameters. While most jigs on the market have a standard ⅜” diameter, there is an XL option with a ½” diameter. If you work with thicker materials, you may want to get an XL jig.

Additional Features

While all jigs function to do the same task, they aren’t all created equal. Depending on your situation and your project, it may make sense to splurge on a jig with more features. Some features that aren’t standard but are helpful when woodworking are built-in storage, an integrated dust collection method, a mounting ability, screws and drill bits, and more. We’ve detailed some options in this article on which features may be helpful in specific situations.

Why You Should Trust Us

As a homeowner with champagne taste on a beer budget, I’ve had many DIY experiences with woodworking and using pocket hole jigs. While my first woodworking project was building Adirondack chairs to better enjoy my outdoor fire pit, I’ve used pocket hole jigs for everything from shelving to building a custom headboard and will continue to use my favorite jigs from this piece to build cabinets for my garage soon.

How We Found the Best Pocket-Hole Jig

To find the best pocket-hole jig on the market, we did our research. After looking at the hundreds of options online and in local stores, we narrowed our list down from over 20 to a top nine that we would test in person. There are many different brands on the market and even more models from each, so we considered price, accessibility, features, and use cases to bring you the best. While some of the jigs do have additional features, they all meet the industry standard for material thickness range and drill depth, which we could compare side by side. Over the course of a few weeks, I used the different pocket hole jigs in different building projects and on different material thicknesses to see how they held up. After reviewing testing notes and usability, we could confidently pick our top six pocket-hole jigs.

How We Put Nine Pocket-Hole Jigs to the Test

At Family Handyman, we put our tools to the test to ensure we know which are truly the best. To find the best pocket hole jig, we narrowed our list to nine different jigs and put them to work. With multiple DIY projects requiring pocket jigs, I tested each option while upgrading my closet with built-in shelving and storage. The materials used for the shelving were on the thinner side, so I also tested each jig on a scrap piece of 2×4 to see how each held up on a thicker cut of wood. Over a few weekends, I was able to put each to the test and have found six different pocket hole jigs I love, that are the best on the market in their respective categories.

FAQ

What depth should I set my Kreg jig for 2×4?

The depth of your pocket jig should be set to the thickness of whatever you will be joining. In the case of a 2×4, since a 2×4’s real thickness dimension is 1.5 inches, you will need to use the 1.5-inch Kreg settings for a 2×4 or any 2x board.

What is the purpose of a pocket hole jig?

The purpose of a pocket jig is to ensure that pocket holes are drilled at a precise angle to achieve a good joint when woodworking. You can drill pocket holes without a jig, but they can be inconsistent in angle and appearance, resulting in weak joints and a less attractive finished project.

Should pocket holes go all the way through?

No! Pocket holes should not go all the way through. When drilling pocket holes, there will be a small section that’s not drilled through. This ensures the screw has a space to make contact to ensure strong joints, and it also prevents wood fraying or cracking on the end grain of your wood.

The post 6 Best Pocket-Hole Jigs, Tested and Reviewed by a DIYer appeared first on Family Handyman.

Polyurethane is a chemical sealant for wood. It’s used to protect your wood floors and furniture from scratches, water damage, and other signs of wear and tear. There are two main types of polyurethane: oil-based and water-based. According to Nick O’Keefe, the owner of Oak City Coatings, LLC, water-based polyurethane goes on clear, while the oil-based kind has an amber tint to it. Read on to find out if polyurethane is waterproof.

Is Oil-Based Polyurethane Waterproof?

“Oil-based polyurethane can protect the wood surfaces from moisture very effectively as it forms a fine water-resistant barrier,” Jay Sanders, of Castle Dream Construction, says.

O’Keefe cautions that wiping up spills sooner rather than later is still best, since it’s technically water-resistant rather than waterproof. Still, oil-based polyurethane is a good choice for protecting your floors and furniture.

How long will oil-based polyurethane last/resist water?

According to Sanders, “Oil-based polyurethane can typically last for about 10 to 15 years. In fact, with proper maintenance, it can resist water for up to 20 years.” So, if you’re looking for something for your floors, which can feel like a huge undertaking, oil-based is a good option. With proper maintenance, you won’t have to refinish them as often.

 Is Water-Based Polyurethane Waterproof?

“Water-based polyurethane is capable of resisting water and other liquids as it provides a protective finish,” Sanders explains. Like its oil-based counterpart, it’s water resistant, not fully waterproof. So, wiping up spills quickly is still recommended. But your floors and furniture will have a decent layer of protection from water damage.

How long will water-based polyurethane last/resist water?

According to Sanders, “You can expect water-based polyurethane to last for about 3-5 years. If applied and maintained properly, [it] can maintain its water resistance for up to 7 years.” He continues on, saying, “Although, in the context of durability, it is ranked lower than oil-based polyurethane, it is a great option for easier cleanup and faster drying times.”

Tips to Make Polyurethane Finish Last

Sanders has a few tips to make a polyurethane finish last:

• “Make sure that the site is prepared properly. Before applying polyurethane, sand and clean the surface thoroughly.” Don’t cut corners here; take the time to do things right.
• “Don’t apply a single thick coat. Rather, apply multiple thin coats for better durability. Experts recommend applying 3-4 coats for optimal protection.” Patience is key; multiple thin coats will work better and look much nicer.
• “It is very critical to prevent the finished surface from direct sunlight. UV exposure can degrade polyurethane and may become yellow over time.” This piece of advice is key; you don’t want discoloration on your beautiful surfaces.
• “Regular maintenance is a must! Try to reapply the coat every 2 to 3 years to extend the lifespan of the finished surface. The key is to reapply the coating once you observe the signs of wear.” Keeping up with maintenance is the best way to get the most mileage out of your pieces.

If you follow the manufacturer’s directions and incorporate these tips into your application, your wooden furniture and floors are sure to look beautiful for a long time.

About the Experts

• Nick O’Keefe is the owner of Oak City Coatings, LLC.
• Jay Sanders is an MHIC licensed contractor and owner of Castle Dream Construction, a basement waterproofing company in Baltimore, Maryland. He’s been working on construction for more than 10 years.

Sources

• Behr: “Water Based Polyurethane | Interior Wood Stains & Finishes” (2021)

The post Is Polyurethane Waterproof? appeared first on Family Handyman.

I tend to get frustrated with suction loss from a dirty filter, having to clean my expensive HEPA filters or waiting for my filter replacement to arrive in the mail. With a Oneida Dust Deputy, I no longer have frequent issues with suction or restricted airflow. Removing sawdust is as simple as dumping out the trash can! Adding a cyclone separator was an affordable upgrade to my dust collection system, and it saved me money on replacement filters and dust collection bags.

In this review, I’ll show you why I added a Dust Deputy to my workshop, why you should add a cyclone separator to your dust collection system, and the pros and cons of the options available.

What is the Oneida Dust Deputy?

When sawdust enters a cyclone separator, it spins around the funnel until heavy wood chips fall into the collection bin while the fine dust makes its way up to the vacuum filter—so the filter works better and longer. The Dust Deputy isn’t a vacuum, and there is no motor. You run a cyclonic dust separator between a tool (like a table saw) and your shop vac. It’s installed between the intake hose and the shop vac or dust collector.

Why add a cyclonic separator to your shop? The biggest reason is that it turns a single-stage dust collector into a two-stage one. With a one-stage system, all the dust and debris runs over the impellers, through the filter and into the collection bag. The impeller gets a lot of wear, and the filter fills up quickly and needs to be cleaned more often.

With a two-stage system, the cyclone separates the dust before it reaches the impeller so only the fine dust goes through the impeller, saving wear on the impeller and filter. The motor lasts longer, too, because the separator filters out larger debris (basically everything except dust particles) so it doesn’t pass through the collector. If you’ve heard that loud “clunk” when a chip hits your expensive impeller, you know that dreaded feeling.

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I Tried It

Oneida Air Systems Dust Deputy Deluxe

We tested the new Dust Deputy, and it's now one of our favorite shop tools.

$119.95 at Amazon

Dust Deputy Features

• Patented cyclone separator, which upgrades any make and model wet/dry vacuum into a two-stage dust control system
• Easy to assemble
• Captures and removes up to 99.9% of dust and debris from air before it reaches the vacuum filter
• Neutral vane inlet improves performance by over 20% compared to other cyclones without this feature; this rectangular inlet feature directs the air down into the cyclone and prevents air turbulence at the inlet

How I Tested the Dust Deputy

I have had a Dust Deputy in my shop for over a year, so I’ve been able to use it repeatedly. I can count on it to perform as expected while it extends the life of my dust collector and shop vac. Standard wet/dry vacs rely on small filters that quickly become clogged with dust and debris. Each time you try to clean the filter by tapping or washing it, the fine fiber construction of the filter becomes damaged.

I first used the Dust Deputy to mill lumber, helping control all the sawdust a planer and jointer generate. And don’t even get me started on the table saw!

I also used the Dust Deputy with my shop vac to improve its performance. I eventually upgraded all my filters to HEPA filters, which are more expensive to replace. They are also ultra-delicate. Have you ever sucked up a stray screw with your shop vac? You don’t want that rattling around in your expensive HEPA filter.

Although I still need to clean and replace filters and collection bags occasionally, it’s much less often with the help of the Dust Deputy.

Assembly was straightforward. When putting the components together, don’t use a power drill, as the threads on the inside are plastic and could strip if you use a drill. Attaching the Dust Deputy to the tool and vacuum was simple. The inlet side connects to your tool, and the top hose goes to the shop vac.

There are different types of Dust Deputy cyclone separators. I chose a model under $100 that fit my shop size and needs. A great way to find out which version is best for your shop is to use the product selector tool on the Oneida Air Systems website. It will ask what machine you use most for shop cleanup (a shop vac or dust collector) and what material you’re collecting (non-abrasive dust like wood and drywall or abrasive dust like sand and gravel). It also asks if you have size constraints, if it needs to fit under a workbench or if there’s plenty of space to go.

Something I learned that wasn’t in the manual is to make sure the sawdust level in the collection bin stays lower than halfway, or you’ll start to see wood chunks make their way up to the shop vac or dust collector. There must be plenty of room for air to circulate inside the bin.

The lid is pop-on and off, so I learned quickly not to pick it up by the cyclone. While I’d like to carry the Dust Deputy and shop vac together on a cart, I have yet to make one, so my Dust Deputy sits under my miter saw station with the hose clipped in place with these clamps.

I was pleased to discover that the Dust Deputy is compatible with any make/model machine in my shop. It comes with tapered ports that fit standard 1.5-inch to 2.5-inch hose fittings. It also works with most materials: Wood dust, drywall dust, concrete dust, water, baking flour, grass, pet hair—just to name a few.

I chose the Dust Deputy over making a DIY version because making my own was more fuss than it was worth. The Oneida system comes with a collapse-proof bucket that won’t fold under high vacuum pressure, and the anti-static components significantly reduce the likelihood of static shocks. Clear, see-through plastic components give a real-time view of how much dust the cyclone separates from the air.

Pros

• Captures 99.9% of dust and debris from air
• Prevents metal or other foreign objects from damaging impellor
• Extends life of your machine’s dust filter
• Available in various sizes and configurations
• Anti-static components
• Maintains suction power

Cons

• Lack of portability

FAQ

How do I clean my Oneida filter?

Cleaning the Dust Deputy is as easy as it gets. First, remove the lid from the collection bin, and then dispose of the dust and debris collected in the bin.

What Other Experts and Reviewers Think

“I added the Super Dust Deputy 4/5 to my small studio furniture workshop to save on bag changes and to capture large chips that were getting caught and causing clogs in the main collector. The separation was appealing to help save time dealing with both those issues,” explains Ashley Pieper, woodworker, artist and owner of Shallow Creek Woodcraft.

“Setup and hook up is simple. Emptying the bin is easy and quick,” Ashley explains. “The Dust Deputy takes my collection system to a two stage with better suction at my tools and better air quality in the shop. Overall, it’s a great product that works exactly as advertised, and that is always a plus!” When asked if there were any issues with the Dust Deputy, Ashley said, “This is more of a conditional preference than an issue but a larger collection bin would work better for the amount of milling I do.”

Verified Amazon purchaser, M.W. appreciated the easy installation and has this to say, “Setup is even easier than the instructions indicate. And everything fit perfectly into my old Rigid 5 gal wet/dry vac…Ultimately – I wanted this to save on cleanup. And it tackled this task amazingly well! But more so it keeps ALL the dust out of the air (and subsequently my lungs!). The whole area feels and smells cleaner. And cleanup is now a 1 minute job – instead of the 30+ mins it used to be (AND sawdust doesn’t get literally EVERYWHERE!!). Not to mention: the vacuum bin is spotless!”

Five star Amazon reviewer, R. Marks, writes, “Good for dust control and keeping your vacuum working. It allows a lot of the dust to drop out before being sucked in the main vacuum. Saves time in the shop.”

Oneida Air Systems verified buyer, Andre B., had this to say: “It works for more than just sawdust. I bought this on a chance that it would work on something other than wood saw dust, and it did not disappoint! I do a lot of router work on foam insulation board for Halloween and Christmas yard decorations. Using just a shop vac would clog my filter in a short time. The Dust Deputy has eliminated my filter clogging. This device collects dust so fine that it statically sticks to the insides of bucket. I don’t quite know the physics behind the Dust Deputy, but it works like magic! I would definitely recommend the DD! No more foam insulation dust everywhere!”

Oneida Air Systems vs. DeWalt, Jet and Mullet

If you’re in the market for a cyclone separator, you’ve likely encountered other popular products from big brands, such as the DeWalt Separator, Jet Cyclonic Separator and the complete system Mullet Cyclone Separator. I chose Oneida Air Systems Dust Deputy because it’s a well-known brand and made in the USA.

There were mixed reviews online for the Jet, with some customer concerns about clogging. I was able to test the DeWalt Separator, and it has standout features that the Dust Deputy doesn’t have, such as the locking clasps on the lid, which make it more secure and easier to open. The lid on the Dust Deputy is a pop top that either takes a couple of tries or needs a bucket tool to open it. The DeWalt Separator has excellent hose storage that fits everything snuggly and securely into the collection bin, and the base includes caster wheels.

Final Verdict

While the DeWalt Separator was a strong contender, I felt that the Dust Deputy was made of stronger material. The see-through feature was a must-have, and the separation efficiency was better, as I had more dust and wood chips left in the Dust Deputy collection bin compared to the other brands.

An affordable upgrade to my dust collection system, the Dust Deputy has saved me time and money on expensive replacement filters and dust bags. The simple design can be adapted to any shop vac or dust collector. It also simplifies waste disposal, holding much more dust and debris than what reaches the vacuum.

Where to Buy the Oneida Dust Deputy

VIA MERCHANT

I Tried It

Oneida Air Systems Dust Deputy Deluxe

Our favorite wet/dry vac for all your shop cleaning needs.

$119.95 at Amazon

You can buy the Dust Deputy Deluxe from Amazon for a list price of about $120. Numerous Dust Deputy kits in various sizes and configurations to suit different vacuum setups and dust collection needs, ranging in price from around $40 to a stainless steel model for about $1,500, are also available on Amazon. They even have a cyclonic separator just for Festool vacuums.

The post Oneida Dust Deputy Review: Tested by a Professional Woodworker appeared first on Family Handyman.

Making a room divider from scratch is a wonderful way to create something completely personalized to a specific room. Shape, color, dimensions — all customized by you.

You can make a DIY room divider as simple or complicated as you want it to be. The only element required is creativity. Functionality is inherent in the project. The base design is made up of three sections of wood joined by hinges. If you want your organizer to be extra special, you can add legs and a frame. If you really want to take your room divider to another level, you can further consider adding things like pegs, paint, or fabric. 

Take the basic steps I share here and make it all your own. I hate to sound cliché, but the possibilities are truly endless.

Cutting List

* – cut to fit

Cut the plywood

Using a table saw, cut the three plywood panels (A – C) out of your sheet of 1/2-in. plywood. Feel free to change up the dimensions and size to fit your space.  I wanted to play with the dimensions by varying the height to make the piece more interesting and optimize the yield in my sheet of plywood.

Rout the arches

Using a wood router with a trammel arm attached to the base, cut out an arch at the top and bottom of each panel (A – C) using the center of each panel as the peak point in each arch.  Because each panel is slightly different in measurement, you will have to adjust each arch slightly to center and balance so the peak point of the arch hits in the middle of each panel. 

To make these arches as clean as possible, rout gradually by taking a few 3/16-in. passes rather than trying to hog through the entire 1/2-in. thickness in a single pass. After they are routed, sand the panels with 150-grit sandpaper.

Layout and drill holes for pegs

If you plan to install pegs (K), layout spacing based on how many pegs you want and drill holes before the unit gets put together in its frame. Most drill presses don’t have the required depth to position your wood for all the peg holes. Create a jig to help you drill perpendicular holes by drilling a hole into a piece of wood with a 3/4-in. Forstner bit on the drill press.  

Use this jig to drill peg holes into the panels (A – C). Clamp it down so it doesn’t wander while drilling. If you drill the holes at a slight angle, the pegs will follow that angle and look crooked.

Note: The pegs won’t be glued in, so the unit can be folded, and the peg layout can be adjusted. That said, a snug hole here is ideal.

Add paint

If you wish to add color to the unit by painting the panels (A—C), it will also be more convenient to paint them before they are assembled. This way, you can easily manipulate the individual panels instead of trying to wrangle a large, hinged unit.

Dado the sides and bases

Use a router table to route a 1/2-in. wide x 1/4-in. deep channel down the center of each 1×2 piece. Ensure the router table fence is locked at a right angle from side to side. This channel will be used to slide in the arched panels when you join the frame to the panels.

Cut the sides and bases

Using a miter saw, cut the 1×2 pieces to length to create the sides (D – F) and bases (G – J) of each panel. Remember that the sides are cut square on top and have a 45° miter on the bottom, and both ends of the bases are mitered.

Slide the panels into the channel groove and position them for a dry fit.  The most crucial piece of the “U Frames” are the bases (G – J). They must be cut to the exact width of the panel (A – C), plus the side pieces (D – F) that frame it. The depth of your channel will slightly change this measurement, so double-check before you cut the base piece.

Layout hinge placement

To lay out the hinges, set aside the two outer panels (A and B), all three base pieces (G-J) and the two outermost side pieces (D and E) of the outer panels.

Lay the two sides (F) of the center large panel and the adjacent inside side of the outer panels (D and E) dado side down with the miters aligned at the bottom of the two sets of pieces. Use a speed square to mark them for hinges so one merges into the next. I placed the bottom of the lower hinges 9-in. from the tip of the miters and the bottom of the upper hinges 37-in. from them.

Recess the hinges

Lay the side pieces (D – F) in a position to accommodate the routing of the recess hinges. Use the hinge thickness to determine the depth of your cut. Secure and clamp two speed squares on either side of your router shoe to ensure clean and straight cuts. Cutting along the hinge layout lines before you rout with a sharp-bladed utility knife will prevent tear-out while cutting.

Assemble the panels

For each frame, attach the base pieces (G – J) to the sides (D – F) by gluing and brad-nailing the miter joints at the bottom to form a “U.” Ensure that the heads of the brad nails are set below the surface of the base pieces (G – J) to prevent the finished piece from gouging the floor. Clean up any squeeze-out and allow these joints to cure to prevent them from separating while sliding them onto the plywood panels (A – C).

Once those joints are cured, add glue to the routed channel in the side pieces (D – F) and slide the 1/2-in. arched panels (A – C) into their dedicated frame.

Secure them with 1-1/2-in. 18-gauge brad nails. Be sure to wipe away excess glue with a wet rag. Because this is the part of the piece that will see the most pull and tug, wood glue is a must.

Apply the clear coat

Use a clear coat to seal all the wood and paint. You can either brush it or spray it on depending on your preference. Either way, you will want to do a light sand with 220-grit sandpaper between the first and second coats to remove any raised grain and achieve a smooth finish. Be sure to do any paint touch-ups on the colored sections before you apply the sealer.  Also, seal the pegs to ensure all your wood has the same color and texture.

Install the hinges

Stack and install the hinges into the finished panels’ sides (D – F) to align and connect all three.  Make sure your screws are centered and straight by drilling a pilot hole using a self-centering drill bit. Ensure that you use the appropriate Phillips bit when installing hinges; otherwise, you risk stripping the screws, especially if they are brass.

Install the pegs

To allow for the peg system to be adjustable we will not be gluing them into the panels (A – C), rather will rely on a friction fit, which means it must fit snugly to ensure pegs (K) stay in place and don’t fall out.

FAQs

How do you make a room divider sturdy?

Anchoring a room divider to the floor or wall is the easiest way to make it sturdy. As this is not always possible, adding weight to the base of a freestanding divider will improve its stability. This can be accomplished by incorporating thicker lumber or metal into the base or by finding inconspicuous places to hide weights or sandbags once the room divider is constructed.

What do you call a folding room divider?

There are many names for folding room dividers, including folding screens, dressing screens, panel screens, shoji screens, wardrobe privacy screens, and accordion dividers.

The post How to Make a DIY Room Divider appeared first on Family Handyman.

Build a Brick Pizza Oven

Make artisan pizzas and more right in your backyard with this brick pizza oven project that takes about one week to complete.

Build a DIY Dog Crate

Don’t buy a crate from the pet store, make this DIY wooden dog crate in two days for less than $500! A fine piece of furniture and a safe home for your pup.

Install a Garage Pegboard

Considering installing pegboard but not sure where to start? Don’t worry! It’s a cinch if you follow this quick and easy tutorial.

Build a Garage Bin Shelf

Build a high shelf for your storage bins that automatically lowers with the push of a button in just a couple days for less than $1,000.

Build a Wood-Fired Hot Tub

With this DIY hot tub, you can enjoy a relaxing soak right in your own backyard—without using any electricity! In about two days time, you can begin to take relaxing dips in this easy-to-build DIY hot tub.

Reface Kitchen Cabinets

Get the look of new cabinets in one weekend for one-third the cost! It’s DIY-friendly, and you can save thousands of dollars by refacing kitchen cabinets yourself instead of replacing them.

Fix Christmas Lights

Squeeze another season out of your strings of lights with these tips that take only a few minutes. Learn how to diagnose and fix common problems with Christmas lights.

Build a Christmas Tree Stand

What better way to get in a festive holiday mood then by building a sturdy DIY Christmas tree stand? This can be done in less than an hour for under $20.

Hang a Wreath From a Window

Want to take your decorating to the next level this holiday season? Learn how to hang a wreath from a window in a way that looks great and won’t fail. Plus, it takes 5-10 minutes and only costs $20!

Build a Backyard Ring Toss Game

Your whole family will love this fun backyard ring toss game that comes together in a few hours  with minimal materials and cost.

Build Cornhole Boards

Bring your next backyard barbecue to life by building this beautiful, fun, and functional DIY cornhole set. These are easy to build and carry around and take about two days and $200 to complete.

Build a Reclaimed Wood Coffee Table

Learn how to make a sleek reclaimed wood coffee table from pallets in this project that will cost you less than $100 and result in a lovely, elegant hardwood coffee table.

Transform IKEA Furniture With Paint

No matter what item you fancy, this step-by-step guide will help you make your IKEA furniture stand out in three days for less than $150.

Applying Real Venetian Plaster

Achieve this durable and timeless finish with real Venetian yourself! This is a project for beginners, takes about two days, and costs around $350.

Build a Bed Frame with Storage

Turn that wasted space under your bed into easy-access storage by building a few simple boxes and drawers and assembling them to make a cool platform bed frame. 

Make Solar-Powered House Numbers

Your dinner guests will never miss your house again once you install these solar-powered house numbers. This is a true Saturday Morning Project and costs less than $50 to complete.

Make a DIY Spice Rack

This simple and easy project uses a curtain rod to organize your spices to give you more room in your kitchen cabinets.

Renovate a Bathroom Without Knocking Down a Wall

Renovating your bathroom can add significant style and resale value to your home. This project shows you how to do that while avoiding expensive construction costs.

Restore a Vintage Console Stereo

A console stereo has so much potential! Using simple woodworking techniques, you can refurbish one for a vintage style with modern sound.

The post Here Are All The Quick, Easy DIY Projects Featured on “Saturday Morning Projects” appeared first on Family Handyman.

For more from Mr. Build It

Mr. Build It can be found on the At Home With Family Handyman streaming channel. At Home is streaming now on Samsung TV Plus, XUMO, The Roku Channel, LG Channels, Plex, fuboTV, Sling Free, and the Family Handyman app. It’s also available on iOS, Apple TV, Android, AndroidTV, FireTV and Roku devices.

Trim the lumber

Using a table saw, trim 1/8 inch from both sides of the 2x6s and 2x8s. This will make smooth edges for gluing.

Make the cross-cuts

Using a miter saw, cut twenty 24-in. lengths from the 2x8s.

Note: You may need more or fewer lengths depending on the desired height of your door. My doors are quite tall — 46 in. x 120 in.

Make the miter cuts

Using a miter saw, cut a 30-degree slant on both ends of 1 length, going in the same direction, to create a parallelogram shape. Repeat with the remaining 19 lengths.

Glue up the chevron panels

For stronger glue adhesion between the angled lengths, use a Festool Domino joiner (to create mortise and tenon joints) or a biscuit joiner as well as the glue. Glue up the left side of the chevron pattern and do the same for the right side. Since the glue up will be slanted due to the chevron pattern, using long ratchet straps to hold the pieces together is helpful. Let the glue dry overnight.

Trim the chevron panels

Using a track saw or a circular saw with an edge guide, trim the sides of the left and right chevron panels to create two even, rectangular shapes.

Attach the stiles

Once both panels are ready, attach the center stile. Again, it’s best to use either the Festool Domino joiner or biscuit joiner, in addition to gluing, for a strong bond. Repeat the process with additional 2×6 material for the left and right stiles. Let the glue dry overnight.

Attach the rails

Repeat the process for the top and bottom rails of the door (use 2×6 material for the stile and rails).

Round over the edges

Round over the side edges of the door using a ⅛” round-over bit with a router.

Sand the doors

Using a sander, sand the doors with 80-grit sandpaper, then follow up with 120-grit sandpaper and 220-grit sandpaper for a smooth surface.

Stain the doors

Now, the doors are ready for your favorite stain. Two coats should give the wood a rich color. To prolong the life of your stain, roll on a light coat of polyurethane clear coat. Let dry.

Install hardware

After installing your preferred pull or handle hardware, install the barn door slide-wheel hardware onto your door, following the manufacturer’s instructions. When installing the rail over the header of your door opening, be sure first to secure a 1×6 pine (primed) board, the length of your barn door hardware, onto the wall studs. This will ensure that you have adequate anchor points to support your new doors.

The post How To Build Modern Barn Doors for Your Home appeared first on Family Handyman.

Stabilize Longer Boards

Here’s a great way to hold boards for routing and planing with ne’er a worry that they’ll slide around or flop over as you work. Clamp two handscrews to a sawhorse or tabletop so their jaws are lined up. Slide the workpiece into the jaws and tighten the handscrews.

Medium-size handscrews have 5/8 in. of usable jaw surface above the screws, so they grip the board like two long-jawed vises. This tip is especially useful when routing molding profiles on narrow boards. You can also screw the handscrews to a piece of 3/4-in plywood on your shop floor and use them to hold doors for edge-planing.

Woodworking Bar Clamps Vise

Slender, curvy workpieces tend to slip and slide in regular woodworking vises, so try Richard Chowin’s great alternative. Clamp a bar or pipe clamp in your bench vise, then tighten the clamp to grip the workpiece at each end. Your future masterpiece won’t move a smidgen while you work, and you’ll have access to all the curves and recesses along its length. This vise also works great for holding more delicate projects for sanding or finishing.

Simple Pipe Clamps Hack

Moaning again that your pipe clamps aren’t long enough to assemble your new “monsterpiece?” Pipe down and quit whining! A few extra 2- and 4-ft. pipe segments plus a handful of pipe couplings are all you need for the extra-long or extra-wide job. Screw couplings and extra pipes to those too short pipes to create the needed lengths. If the pipe clamps are under the wood, add spacers slightly higher than the couplings perpendicular to the pipes. When you’re finished, unscrew and store the extra pipes with couplings and you’ll be ready for the next jumbo project that comes down the pipeline. A big thanks to Jeff Poirier for tipping us off to this great idea.

Gentle Jaws

Are your C-clamp jaws leaving dents in projects or the furniture you’re repairing? Press adhesive-backed felt pads for table and chair legs on the jaw faces (you’ll get a better bond if you lightly sand the faces with fine sandpaper). Look for larger precut rectangular shapes that you can trim to fit your woodworking bar clamps faces as well. Gripping thanks to Kurt Lawton for this nifty tip.

Plus: Check out these clamp storage ideas for your workshop.

Spring Clamp Tray

Serve up your spring clamps on a tray—a slotted piece of 3/4-in. plywood with 1/4-in. plywood fins glued in the slots. A clamp tray defies the natural tendency of tools to create clutter. Just pull the tray off a peg, takes a few clamps off the fins, stick them back on the fins when you’re done, and hang up the tray.

Plus: How to build the ultimate clamp rack.

Extend Your Woodworking Bar Clamps

Doug Casper sent in this gem of a tip. He built some clever plywood clamp extenders to use when his bar clamps are too short to do the job. I think it’s brilliant. And it sure beats the old trick of joining two bar clamps in the middle. Click here to learn how to build these clamp extenders.

Pipe clamps cradle

Tape Works, Too

Clamping mitered edges can be a real hassle because they never seems to line up correctly. The easiest way that I’ve found to get around this process is to use painter’s tape as clamps. First set the pieces so that the outer edges are facing up and tape them edge-to-edge. The flip the pieces over so the beveled edges are facing up and glue them together. Complete the process by taping the last two edges together and let sit until completed. The tape removes easily and the glue won’t attach to the tape, making sanding and finishing very simple.

Corner Clamping Gadgets

Corner clamping blocks for assembling picture frames aren’t a new idea: woodworking magazines have shown variations for years. But these are among the best I’ve seen. The holes span the corner, keeping the clamps from stick to the frames when the glue squeezes out. — Travis Larson

Plus: Clamping table basics.

3 Ways to Get a Grip

1. When driving screws by hand, use a piece of rubber shelf liner to cushion your hand and increase torque on the screwdriver handle.
2. Slide bicycle handlebar grips on bar clamp handles.
3. Cut the fingers off old rubber dishwashing gloves and stretch them over handles of handscrews.

Thanks to reader Brad Snyder for offering these tips!

Plus: Everything you need to know about clamping.

Brilliant Bar Clamp Cover

Iron pipe clamps can easily mar softer woods or react with the glue to stain the wood. My solution is to cut a section of plastic PVC pipe to size and place it around the pipe. If you have several short lengths, you can space them strategically to accommodate different widths of stock wood. — Tim Johnson

Overhead Spring Clamp Storage

If you have a shop in the garage, try this tip from reader Dan Amstutz. Clip all of your spring clamps on the top garage door brace. The clamps are always right at hand whether you’re working with the door shut or al fresco (that’s with the door open, for those of you who don’t speak Garage Italiano).

Foam Stabilizers

Do your pipe and bar clamps flop over during gluing jobs—and cause you to come unglued along with the boards? Make supports for your clamps from 1-1/2 in. thick rigid foam insulation. Use a utility knife or saw to cut friction-fit slots for the pipes or bars. Now the clamps—and you—will remain stable during gluing jobs.

Bench Pucks

Rockler sells ingenious little things called Bench Cookies (rockler.com). They’re very useful when you need to space projects above the workbench for clamping, finishing or routing. But if you need lots of them, or you love saving a few bucks, you can buy hockey pucks for about $1.25 each and stick shelf liner on both sides with spray adhesive. Rob Rowe suggested this tip. I’m guessing he’s a bored NHL player/woodworker with a mountain of old pucks. — Travis Larson

Screw Clamps Work Like a Charm

You don’t always need clamps. Cut your workpiece a little long, fit the parts, then drill holes near the ends. Glue up the pieces and screw them together; they’ll line up perfectly. Add clamps in the middle if no glue is squeezing out there. Then just cut off the ends when the glue dries.

Perfect Pads

Now you can clamp up projects without sticking bumper boards between the clamps and the wood. Buy a pack of 3M Surface Gard medium duty felt pads ($3 a pack at home centers, or call 800-3M-HELPS), and cut out pieces to cover the clamp faces (scuff the jaw surfaces with sandpaper first). The sticky-backed side of the pad tightly adheres to the jaws so the pad can’t slide when you crank up the pressure. Thanks to reader Harry Lohr for simplifying our glue-up tasks.

Home-Made Miter Clamps

Don’t spend money on store-bought miter clamps—make your own! Cut a couple of 8-in. x 3/4-in. x 1/8-in. strips of hardwood and screw a couple 2″x 2″ plywood triangles on the ends. Place the mitered pieces on a flat surface and attach your home-made clamps to the outside edge of each, aligning the long side of the triangle parallel with the miter joint. Apply glue to the joint faces and clamp the joint. Hand screws work best because they grip tighter and won’t scratch the workpieces. Many thanks to reader David Swanson for this picture-perfect tip. Learn how to build these homemade miter clamps here.

On-Board Hold-Down

This easy-to-build hold-down clamp adds great clamping versatility to any workbench and is quick to install. Our thanks to reader Tom Peniston for a great design.

Edge-Gluing Made Easy

For about $30, you can fortify your bar clamp arsenal with these mighty tools. These clamps apply pressure horizontally as well as vertically, so the joint edges are wedged tightly together and stay level. Here’s how to make edge-gluing clamps.

Studly clamp storage

How to Un-Clamp with a Clamp

Convert a pipe clamp—the type with a sliding crank handle—into a handy aid for disassembling old furniture. Unscrew the fixed jaw that has the crank and screw it on backward—so the jaw faces away from the pipe. Now reverse the direction of the sliding jaw and use the clamp to gently break apart the joints you’ll be repair-ing. When the handle hits the pipe, just slide it to its opposite end and give it another half crank.

Low-Profile Bench Vise

Increase your workshop’s vise-atility with 1/2-in. pipe clamps screwed to one end of your workbench. It works like a third hand for all kinds of jobs and only takes a half hour to install.

Irregular Object? No Problem

Reader Robert Cramer showed us a cushy way to make glue repairs on small or delicate objects without having to hold them together by hand until the glue dries. Flatten out a ball of Play-Doh modeling compound ($2 for a four-pack), then apply glue to the edges of the object you’re repairing and press the pieces into the clay. The clay will hold the pieces together while the glue dries, and then you can peel it right off.

Quick Paint Can Handle

When I needed to touch up a paint job that required very little paint, it didn’t make sense to decant some paint from the quart-size can into a different container just for the sake of having a convenient handle. So I improvised. Instead of dirtying a new paint container, I created a handle for the can using a C-clamp. Yes, it may get some paint on the clamp, but does that matter? Not to me! — Mike Watt

Pipe clamp hanger

Right-On Octagons

If you’ve ever cut an octagonal piece for a project, you probably “snuck up on it.” You drew the shape, shaved off the corners with a jig-saw, and sanded to the line. Next time, clamp this plywood holder to your table saw’s miter gauge and you’ll be able to cut perfect octagons of various sizes in seconds. Cut a square corner in the plywood and, adjust-ing the miter gauge, set it 45 degrees to the saw blade. (Screw a strip of wood to the jig so it’s easy to clamp to the miter gauge.) Hold the square workpiece firmly in the corner cutout and push it through the blade to snip off a corner. Rotate a quarter turn and push it through again to clip off the next corner. If you start with truly square workpieces, this jig will cut perfect octagons every time. Cut a few extra squares to practice on! Our thanks to reader Walter Andrews for this cool tip.

Spring Grip Storage

Or buy these spring grip organizers, available at home centers, then screw them to a board. Position the board just high enough to hold the pipe near the crank end while the other end rests on the floor.

Spring Clamp Stop Block

Here’s a stop block that’ll work great on every fence in your shop. Make an L-shaped block (the red piece in the photo) to ride upside down on the fence on your miter gauge. To make the L-block, cut a short 1-1/2 in. wide strip of 1/2-in. thick board, then cut a 1/2-in. piece off the end and glue it at a right angle to the end of the longer one. Screw the L-block to a strong spring clamp by drilling a screw hole in the tip of one clamp jaw, then screw the block inside the clamp with a fairly loose fit. When you snap the block in place on the fence, it’ll snug up tight to both edges. Put adhesive-backed sandpaper on the fence side of the L-block to make it grip extra tight.

Thanks again to Joe Nelson for this tip that we pulled from our best-of collection. Watch this video to learn how to set up a stop block for your miter saw.

The post 28 Secret and Unique Clamping Tricks from Woodworkers appeared first on Family Handyman.

Best Plywood Options

Building furniture and cabinets is an investment of both time and money. So when you’re buying plywood for these projects, shop wisely. Your choices will have a huge impact on the building process and the results. We’ll help you decide exactly what you need and help you avoid common plywood pitfalls.

Plus, if you’ve been neglecting your garage, it’s time to pay attention and give that hard-working space the makeover it deserves.

Check for Flatness

Don’t expect perfection—you probably won’t find it. Just try to find the best of the pile. Sight down all the edges just like you’d do if you were buying 2×4 studs. Sometimes, sheets are warped in multiple directions, resembling a potato chip. Leave these for some unlucky, less informed buyer. If you’re buying 1/4-in. plywood, don’t worry about flat and straight; it won’t be either. But you’ll likely fasten it to structural parts, which will keep it flat.

Inspect the Edges

Look closely at the core veneers on the edge of the sheet. They should be straight and of uniform thickness and have few, if any, voids. If you see a lot of voids and overlapping core veneers along the edge, there will be more throughout the sheet that won’t be visible until you cut it. Overlapping veneers cause undulations that aren’t visible until after you’ve applied a finish.

Bring a Friend

Plywood in 4 x 8-ft. sheets is heavy and unwieldy. Unstacking, inspecting, restacking, loading and unloading are much easier with an extra set of hands.

Watch for Buried Treasure

The most beautifully figured face veneers will be at the lumberyard. But when I’m at the home center, I like to check out the back faces of the plywood or even plywood that’s meant for underlayment. Because most people look for consistency of color and grain, there are some striking veneers that get written off as ugly. Quite often, something catches my eye that could be a really cool design element.

Special Order Plywood From the Home Center

Some home centers will special-order many different species, core options and veneer cuts. But beware: You won’t be able to look at the actual sheets before buying, and you probably won’t be able to return or reject them unless they’re damaged or otherwise unusable. If it’s just that you don’t like the grain pattern, you’re probably stuck with it.

Using Stain? Beware of Birch.

Any tree species accepts a clear finish such as polyurethane just fine. But if you’re planning to stain your piece, beware of birch, pine and maple. These species take stain very unevenly and can end up looking blotchy. If you’re set on one of these species, use prestain conditioner, which helps them take stain much more evenly. Even better, look at samples of different species with a clear finish and see if there’s one that has the color you like without stain.

Know the Grading System

Hardwood veneer plywood has a front and a back face and is graded by the quality of each face. The front face is graded using a letter (A–D), with A being the best. The back face is graded using a number (1–4), with 1 being the best.

Shop the Home Center for Convenience and Savings

Baltic birch is a premium plywood found at lumberyards. It’s strong with good screw-holding capability, making it a good, affordable alternative. It’s perfect for less visible cabinet parts, drawers and shelving. As for other plywood, home centers have a more limited selection, carrying mostly veneer core (maybe MDF core), grade B2 and lower. Face veneer cuts are typically rotary cut or plain sliced, and in-stock species will usually be red oak, birch and maple. But the home center is a good option to save a little money.

Don’t Have Plywood Delivered

If you have a way to haul sheets of plywood yourself, do it. The person pulling sheets for delivery isn’t going to handselect the nicest sheets for you. If delivery is your only option, inspect the sheets before the delivery truck leaves and reject any that are damaged or unusable. You may not have the option of rejecting a sheet because you don’t like the grain pattern.

Using Paint? Choose MDF or Birch

For projects I’m going to paint, I like MDF (medium-density fiberboard) or birch. B-grade birch or lower is fine. Sometimes, you’ll even see plywood classified as “paint grade.” Birch is close grained with a smooth texture that doesn’t show through paint. With an open-grained species like oak, the grain is visible under paint. MDF, of course, has no grain pattern, making it a good choice for painted projects. But for structural parts, I like birch veneer.

Sand at Your Own Risk

All plywood needs at least light sanding before finishing. Sometimes, the face veneer on home center plywood is so thin that the pink veneer adhesive shows through. On several occasions, I’ve had birch veneer turn translucent after light sanding with 220-grit paper. If you suspect that the veneer is ultra thin, don’t use a power sander. Just sand by hand.

Shop Lumberyards for Quality and Selection

For a large selection of the best-quality hardwood veneer plywood, visit a lumberyard. A lumberyard that caters to cabinetmakers will give you enough options to make you dizzy. There are a few things you should know before heading to the lumber yard.

Can You Get the Bow Out?

Admit it: You’ve tried flattening sheets of plywood. I have too. I’ve tried weights, clamps, wetting down the concave side, sun drying the convex side and gluing opposing bowed sheets together. Nothing seems to work with any reliability. If the core veneers weren’t in a perfect state of equilibrium and all in harmony when they were bonded together, the sheet has little chance of flattening out. The only recourse is to save the flattest sheets for the largest parts and use the worst sheets in smaller components, minimizing any curvature.

Don’t Just Grab the Top Sheet

Be picky and dig through the pile for the best sheets. Spending extra time to find the flattest undamaged sheets with appealing grain pattern is well worth the effort. But be kind and restack! And take heart; the bottom sheet is usually a bad choice anyway because it’s most prone to forklift damage.

Watch Out for Damage

You can often cut around minor damage in an otherwise good sheet (if you can, you might even be able to get a discount). But sanding out deep dents (above) isn’t an option. You may not be able to sand out stains either. The purple stains shown result from a reaction between oak tannin and steel.

Best Plywood for Cabinets: Look at the Face Veneers

If only one side of your project will be visible, like a closed cabinet, don’t worry about the back face. If you’re building an open bookcase where both faces are visible, make sure you like the look of both faces.

The post 16 Tips to Get the Best Plywood for Your Buck appeared first on Family Handyman.

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If you’re looking for a shop vacuum that can support big messes, the Ridgid Wet/Dry Vac should be your first choice. Ridgid has been a leading manufacturer of shop vacs for years, and this model is an excellent example of why this brand is so popular. Combining powerful suction power, durability, lightweight design, and well-designed accessory storage, this 16-gallon model checks all the boxes and is large enough to handle a full day of debris cleanup without being emptied.

Built with a 6.5 horsepower motor, this particular vac is made for heavy-duty projects. A pleated cartridge filter comes with this model and is excellent at capturing general debris, but I recommend replacing the stock filter with a HEPA filter and dust collection bag.

There’s an accessory storage rack along the back and additional storage over the rear wheels. The accessories allow me to get in-between and under car seats to suck up everything—Cheerios, puzzle pieces, sand, LEGOS, you name it, it’s under there. When paired with a Dust Deputy Cyclone Separator or DeWalt Separator, the Rigid wet/dry vacuum turns into a high-capacity, two-stage dust collection system, and with a large drum size, can capture a day’s worth of debris from the table saw or planer.

The Ridgid has easily accessible cord storage where I can quickly wrap the 20-foot cord out of the way, which is essential in a smaller workshop where space is at a premium. With a height of about 25 inches, this 16-gallon vac is tall enough to grab the top and side handles without bending over too far and makes it easier to push around corners and doorways without banging into walls. It sucked up two gallons of water in just five seconds and took four seconds to handle a mess of cat litter and screws.

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Lowest Price in 30 days

Best for a Small Shop Shop

Shop Fox W1826 Wall Mount Dust Collector

315.006% OFF$297 at Amazon

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Wall-mounted dust collectors are an ideal pick for small shops. Because they mount directly to the wall rather than taking up precious floor space, they stay out of the way but are still close enough at hand to use at a moment’s notice. Shop Fox’s wall dust collector is only 44 inches tall with the bag inflated, while the unit is only 19 inches long.

Apart from the compact size, it still boasts powerful suction thanks to a one-horsepower motor. I tested this model with my table saw and jointer and found it able to collect over 99% of the dust from my table saw, having no issues moving a higher volume of air to handle the larger dust output of my table saw. It took about 100 passes on the jointer before changing the bag. The 2.5-micron filter bag filters out most contaminants, including fine dust particles. It’s a great way to keep small workshops tidy without sacrificing space.

The thick, felted bag on the Shop Fox has pluses and minuses. It gathers chips and dust in the same felted bag that serves as its filter. This machine is more affordable than canister filters and is lighter to mount to the wall. Without a separate plastic collection bag, the wood chips are tough to shake out of the felt bag and through the small zipper on the bottom. Overall, this is a great value, but if you have a bigger budget, the Shop Fox wall-mount W1844 model will make bag changes easier, and its canister filter captures airborne particles down to one micron in size.

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Best Wall Mount

Powertec Wall Mount Wall Mount Dust Collector

$269.99 at Amazon

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This Powertec dust collector has an extra-small footprint, making it the perfect choice for a small but busy workshop. The machine moves 560 CFM of suction power through a 4-inch inlet with an impressive 1-micron filter-efficiency rating. The Powertec operates at about 85 decibels, just below harmful noise.

The setup consists of a couple of straightforward steps. First, mount the unit to the wall and attach the bag. If your wall is concrete or masonry, you can attach it to the wall with lag shields and screws. If not, you’ll need to attach a mounting board across studs (not included) and mount the unit to that board. Be sure to wear gloves when setting up, as there are some sharp edges on the metal band clamp used to attach the bag. Also, you’ll want help attaching the bag for the first couple of times, as it takes some practice to install the metal band without someone holding the bag in place.

A built-in window on the dust-collection bag makes it easy to see when it is full. This dust collector weighs 35.5 pounds but is light enough to mount on the wall easily. It has a 4-inch hose that needs to be adapted to 2.5 inches for smaller tools. The machine runs on a 1-HP dual-voltage motor, allowing it to be used on either 120-volt or 240-volt power systems.

For my small workshop, this wall-mounted dust collector is the perfect choice! It takes up far less space in the corner while maintaining a similar amount of suction power and it filters up to 1-micron particle size. My shop vac has been banished to the far side of the shop, where the dust collector hose can’t reach.

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Best Upgrade

Oneida Air Systems Dust Deputy

$119.95 at Amazon

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A workshop that uses a single-stage or bag-style dust collector to collect dust can leave you with bags to empty and filters to clean or replace, quickly becoming messy and costly. That changes with the Oneida Dust Deputy cyclone separator. The device uses centrifugal force to separate 99.9% of fine dust and heavier particles into a 5-gallon bucket and sends cleaned air to the dust collector or shop vac.

My first test of the Dust Deputy was running cedar through a thickness planer. Without the Dust Deputy, the shop vac would have filled the disposable bag within the first couple of boards. I easily collected and emptied the 5-gallon bucket of shavings rather than spending time cleaning the pleated filter of caked-on dust. Now, I have a two-stage system that means continuously high suction and prolonged filter life.

The biggest money saver is having to replace disposable filter bags less often. By separating out the chips and dust before they reach the vacuum, I can quickly empty the bucket, drastically reducing the frequency with which I replace the disposable bag. I have also noticed a visible reduction in dust around the shop with just a HEPA filter upgrade in my shop vac and the Dust Deputy.

A downside to the bucket/cyclone system is that it must stay attached to the vacuum by a short hose, leaving you to drag everything with you. Workarounds include building a dust collection cart or adding caster mounts to the bucket.

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Best for Professional Woodworkers

Grizzly 2 HP Canister Dust Collector

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$949 at Amazon

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This heavy-duty dust collector from Grizzly is best for bigger—or professional—workshops with an impressive 1,700 CFM air suction. On the exterior, the canister filter has six times the filtering area of regular bag filters, thanks to the one-micron filters included. A built-in cleaning brush operates from the outside, making it much easier than other collectors in terms of upkeep.

Simultaneously connect up to three four-inch lines using the heavy-gauge clear plastic adapter. This allows for more visibility and helps track down potential clogs. As a bonus, it can connect directly to band saws, miter saws, planers and other types of saws for instant dust pickup. The unit ships with extra bags, all clear for visibility and easy to replace when full. The steel duct from the impeller to the filter improves performance, and with just a glance, you’ll know when it’s time to clear out the chips, thanks to the clear bottom bag.

Grizzly is set up for adding ductwork, elbows and other components to a duct line, but this can increase static pressure loss (airflow resistance). This resistance can be minimized using smooth pipe and gradual curves rather than flex pipe and 90-degree elbows.

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Best Separator

DeWalt Separator with 6 Gallon Tank

$104.99 at Amazon

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The DeWalt Separator is a winning combination for defeating dust when paired with a wet and dry vac. Because it pairs with a shop vac, there’s no need to be careful about clogging the filter by sucking up non-dust particles. An adaptable port allows for a 1-7/8″ or 2-1/2″ connection, which fits various dust collection hose sizes.

The turbine airflow inside the cone effectively enhances the suction power of the shop vacuums and captures 99.5% of debris from the air stream. This eliminates suction loss and loose dust particles on the floor and in the air.

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Most Portable

VacMaster Wet/Dry Vac Five Gallon Beast

$108.13 at Amazon

This five-gallon model is called the Beast, and it definitely lives up to its name. It has tons of power for a wet/dry vac with such a small footprint, boasting six peak HP and 102 CFM suction power. At just 15 pounds, the vac is convenient to transport and store.

Two curved metal brackets hold the seven-foot hose, preventing it from popping out while wrapped. Circular slots on top of the vac secure the attachments: a wide utility nozzle, a narrow crevice tool, and a car nozzle for getting between car seats.

The Beast features a cord wrap system with adjustable wings that flip inward, allowing you to pull the cord off all at once instead of unwrapping 18 feet of cord length. When put to the test, the Beast vacuumed two gallons of water in 10 seconds. It also sucked up a mix of cat litter and nails in just 8 seconds and had no problem handling the weight of the screws. The connections and canister latches have a nice, heavy-duty feel, and the unit is quiet. This model even has a noise diffuser attachment that fits into the blower port.

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Best Tool Accessories

VacMaster Wet/Dry Vac Six Gallon

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This VacMaster Wet/Dry Vac has one extra gallon of capacity than the Beast and a four peak HP (rather than the six HP on the Beast). While it boasts good accessory storage, the power cord storage is lacking. To put the cord away, wrap and secure it with a Velcro strap, then hang it on the cord hook.

This model also includes a blower port. To access the blower port, remove the hose from the vacuum port and insert the end of the hose into the blower port. The cartridge filter captures fine dust down to 1 micron in size for dry vacuuming, and a foam wet filter installed on the filter cage is used for liquid vacuuming.

Accessory storage is easily accessible, keeping an impressive selection of tools securely in place: a utility nozzle, floor brush, squeegee nozzle, crevice tool and extension wands.

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Best HEPA

VacMaster Wet/Dry Vac 8 gallon, HEPA Certified

$224.93 at Amazon

The VacMaster 8-Gallon HEPA Wet/Dry Vac is a decently priced HEPA-certified industrial machine. Its ultra-quiet two-stage motor can capture 99.9% of dust that is 0.3 micron particle size. This model features four levels of filtration, including a HEPA cartridge filter, an exhaust filter, a microfiber pre-filter and a sealable high-efficiency fine dust collection bag.

This commercial vac has a 40-foot cleaning reach and comes with a lighted plug, kink-free hose, and foam wet filter for liquid vacuuming. It also has impressive attachments and includes a tool for every task: crevice tool, steel extension wands, dust brush, steel elbow with air control, floor brush/squeegee nozzle, and power tool adapter.

What to Consider When Buying a Dust Collector

Before deciding on a dust collector, it is important to evaluate what you need. Put simply, your dust collector needs to pull more air (rated in cfm) than your most air-hungry tool (and the ductwork) requires. Other factors to consider include the level of air filtration and the collection bag capacity.

Beginner woodworkers (who have minimal capital to invest in large stationary tools) may want to consider a small dust collector. These portable machines are manageable and easy to move around the shop from tool to tool as needed. However, you’ll sacrifice the cyclone system that separates chips and dust, resulting in more dust reaching the pleated filter. This means cleaning the filter more often.

A simple upgrade with a significant impact is to replace stock bags with felt bags rated at five microns or less. Dust particles under 10 microns are the most harmful to your lungs, and standard bags are good at capturing particles of 25 microns or bigger. Also, check the noise output to ensure it’s not too loud.

“To choose the right dust collector, the user must understand the nature of the dust they are creating, where the dust is produced, and the volume of dust produced. The user must choose the appropriate dust collector for their specific job site application based on performance needs, desired product features and any local dust regulations. The Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) standards 1926.1153 and 1910 offer guidelines for respirable crystalline silica dust and wood dust,” notes Heather Lockhart, product manager for DeWalt.

Types of Dust Collectors

Several types of dust collection products are available, with the main differences being power, portability and dust collection capacity.

Shop vacs: This is an affordable option best used for smaller tools and to pick up random debris such as screws. You will have to empty the vacuum more often, and the filter clogs more frequently. The filtering capacity of a shop vac is not nearly as strong as a dust collector, but there are ways to improve it.

Dust Extractors: These are designed to collect dust from handheld power tools. Like the Festool HEPA version, they can be extraordinarily quiet and have a tool-activated switch that turns them on automatically.

Single-Stage Dust Collectors: Two-bag, single-stage dust collectors work by transporting sawdust and wood chips through an impeller to a collection bag. The heavier particles and debris then settle in the lower bag. They’re simple designs with a higher horsepower output that lets you connect to larger tools like a table saw or planer. They come in various designs: upright, wall-mounted or handheld.

Cyclonic Canister Dust Collectors: This type has a higher airflow and two-stage dust separation, separating smaller particles from larger pieces. As a result, the finer dust particles pass through the impeller and into the filter. The canister filter is excellent at capturing one-micron and two-micron dust particles effectively.

Why You Should Trust Us

As an award-winning woodworker and a certified skilled trades instructor, I have years of experience educating and crafting every piece featured on my site. I tested each product in this piece to ensure they live up to their online reputation. That way, you can make consumer-informed decisions based on real-life testing before you buy.

Our editors consulted Heather Lockhart, product manager with DeWalt, who oversees the vacuum and dust extractor categories. Lockhart develops strategic product plans for the Global Tools and Storage team, including managing product roadmaps and future innovation.

We also consulted with Brandon Walker, Superintendent of ASAP Restoration, who shared his over twenty-plus years of experience in dust collection and the construction trade.

Tom Noffsinger, a veteran woodworker for over 30 years and a FESTOOL-trained woodworking instructor, also offered his expertise in dust collection for hobbyists and small woodworking shops.

How We Found the Best Dust Collectors

I limited the selection of dust collectors and shop vacs with three microns or better filtration and dust collectors with pleated filters and heavy felt bags. I looked at the ease of assembly out of the box and how simple it is to empty and reattach the dust collection bag. I also considered collection bag capacity, power (CFM), and suction. Finally, I combed through airflow charts, decibel levels, and static pressure calculations to bring you the best dust collector and shop vac products for a shop of any size.

I started by unboxing and assembling each dust collector and wet/dry vac, noting how long the assembly took and whether the owner’s manual instructions were clear, lacking, or confusing. Then, I put the machines through their paces to test for the best and weed out the rest.

For shop vacs, I recorded the time it took each vacuum to suck up a mess consisting of sawdust, screws, nails, and chunks of wood with equal vigor. The other suction test was to fill a bucket with two gallons of water and see how long it took the shop vac to empty the bucket of water. Shop Vacs have many uses, often used in emergencies where time is a factor. So, I tested each model for difficult or confusing latches and complicated cord holders and checked to see if the hose and attachments fit together easily.

Most importantly, I used the dust collectors and shop vacs as they were intended—for cleaning up messes and a home renovation project. For dust collectors, I attached them to handheld tools and bigger equipment like a table saw and planer.

FAQ

How strong of a dust collector do I need?

Cubic feet per minute (CFM) and horsepower (HP) are two essential features to consider when determining the size of a dust collector you need. Horsepower determines the strength of the dust collector motor, and CFM is the amount of airflow the collector generates.

Medium-sized dust collectors typically have around one horsepower and 700 CFM. If your workshop has two or three power tools, a one-horsepower 700 CFM dust collector will be the smartest choice. Larger shops with multiple stationary power tools should use around one-and-a-half horsepower collectors with 1,200 CFM. The size of a workshop affects the amount of air volume (CFM) needed to effectively capture dust. Larger workshops request higher CFM ratings. Consider your peak usage when determining the strength of the dust collector. Will you be using multiple tools simultaneously or one tool at a time?

The ductwork and static pressure also determine how strong a dust collector you need. The more bends and obstacles in the ductwork, the higher the static pressure, which requires a more powerful dust collector to maintain adequate airflow.

Can you turn a shop vac into a dust collector?

Repurposing a shop vac as a dust collector can be a budget-friendly option for hobbyists or occasional users. Still, it’s essential to understand its limitations and consider whether it meets your needs and expectations for dust collection.

If you’re wondering, can wood make you sick? The short answer is yes, which is why dealing with dust is so important. But if a dust collector is too costly or bulky, you can make a budget system with just a few upgrades to your wet/dry vac. One upgrade is to add HEPA filtration to your shop vac.

When the HEPA filter and dust bag are used together, they remove 99.97% of all particles 0.3 microns and larger from the air. These dust bags are uniquely shaped like rings instead of the typical U-shaped bags. This allows for cyclonic airflow, meaning dust distributes evenly throughout the bag.

Another upgrade to your shop vac is a cyclone separator to keep the filter cleaner and make it easier to dispose of sawdust. A popular one is the Dust Deputy separator, which captures about 98% of the dust in the five-gallon bucket, leaving the filter on your shop vac cleaner and running more efficiently.

The shop vac can be attached to most large power tools, but it won’t be as effective as a dust collector since it may not provide the same airflow or suction power as a dedicated dust collector. You’ll find yourself cleaning out the dust receptacle of a shop vac much more frequently, especially with tools that create a lot of dust.

Technically speaking, the difference between a shop vac and a dust collector is that a shop vac is a high suction, low airflow (which is why you can suck a screw right off the floor with the narrow hose). A dust collector has high airflow and low suction (which is why lighter sawdust and wood chips will float down the wide hose, but it can’t pick up metal or large pieces).

A dust extractor is similar to a shop vac but can move a larger volume of air. It also has better filters, typically HEPA grade, that trap airborne dust down to 0.3 microns. Consider it a portable dust collector that you can take with you to the job site!

While repurposing a shop vac as a dust collector can be effective for smaller-scale projects and portable tools, it may not be as efficient or powerful as dedicated dust collection systems designed for larger woodworking or industrial applications. Regular maintenance is key. Clean or replace the filter and dust collection bag regularly for optimal performance.

“If possible, a dust collector should be fitted with a filter capable of capturing 1 micron particles of dust. Equally important is that any filter should be kept clean with agitation after every work day,” says Tom Noffsinger, a veteran woodworker of over 30 years.

What is a good CFM for a dust collector?

Cubic feet per minute (CFM) and horsepower (HP) are two essential features to consider when determining the size of a dust collector you need. Horsepower determines the strength of the dust collector motor, and CFM is the amount of airflow the collector generates.

Medium-sized dust collectors are typically around one horsepower and 700 CFM. If your workshop has two or three power tools, a one-horsepower 700 CFM dust collector will be the smartest choice. Larger shops with multiple stationary power tools should use collectors that are around one-and-a-half horsepower and 1,200 CFM.

Here’s a rough guideline:

Small Workshops or DIY Enthusiasts: A dust collector with a CFM rating of around 350 to 700 CFM should suffice for smaller workshops. These units are typically compact and suitable for handheld tools like sanders and routers.

Mid-Size Workshops: If you have a mid-size workshop and use larger stationary tools such as a table saw, planer or jointer, consider a dust collector with a CFM rating between 700 and 1100 CFM. This range provides sufficient airflow to capture dust generated by larger machinery.

Large Workshops or Commercial Settings: For larger workshops or commercial settings with multiple tools operating simultaneously, you may require a dust collector with a CFM rating exceeding 1100 CFM. High-capacity dust collectors like the Grizzly 1 HP dust collector with multiple intake ports or ductwork systems may be necessary to handle the increased volume of dust.

Once you have matched the dust collector’s CFM rating with the requirements of your specific tools and workshop setup, you will want to take into account the ductwork system, as this will also impact the overall performance of the dust collection system.

“A higher CFM means more air is moving, and more dust is being collected and filtered out of the air, or straight off the tool. Ultimately, as a hobbyist, you might want to shoot for something in the middle range of CFMs because it’s too low, and you’ll be disappointed and too high, and you won’t notice the difference for anything but the extra amount you paid. For most hobbyists, the minimum CFM required for efficient dust collection would likely be around the 350 range, whereas woodworkers with more projects, or ones that require more uptake, would likely need a CFM in the 800s to be safe,” says Brandon Walker, Superintendent at ASAP Restoration LLC.

The post The 9 Best Dust Collector Machines for Woodworking, Tested and Reviewed appeared first on Family Handyman.

Bob Puetz started woodturning when he was 10. He stood on a peach crate in his dad’s shop to reach a good quality lathe. He learned from his dad, a farmer known for having lots of quality tools. “My first project with the lathe was a lamp of walnut from grandpa’s farm,” says Puetz, from East Bethel, Minnesota.

Jacobs, Puetz and Dan Larson are longtime members of the Minnesota Woodturners Association (MWA). They offer these 10 tips to beginners who want to get off on the right foot.

Take a Class

Do an online search of woodturning classes and plenty of choices will pop up. You’ll find out if you like the realities of woodturning — turning itself, the tools, the lathe, the wood, the dust — versus what you imagined.

“You won’t waste money buying tools you won’t use,” says Larson, from Little Canada, Minnesota. “You’ll discover the type of turning you like. Some people like turning bowls, and others like making spindles, which require different tools.”

Find a Community

Taking a class takes you to woodturning communities. Join one. It helps you save money on tools, lathes and wood, as well as learn techniques from fellow members. Sometimes members give away or sell at a discount tools and equipment they no longer use.

Search online to find a community. Start with the American Association of Woodturners, which has 365 worldwide chapters.

Find a Mentor

Many members of your woodturning community will gladly take you on as a student. Jacobs, Puetz and Larson are my mentors and go-to guys for answering countless questions about those devilish details of my woodturning projects.

Buy the Best Tools — But Not a Whole Set

The additional cost of an excellent tool is forgotten over its long life and excellent results. Keep that in mind that if you decide to quit woodturning.

“You can sell woodturning tools a whole lot easier than cheap tools, which are often made of cheap steel or have bad handles,” says Jacobs. “Also, don’t buy a whole set of woodturning tools. There may be eight in that set, and you end up using two or three, depending on the type of turning you do.”

Go Slow With Purchases

You can be overwhelmed by the cost of the tools, lathes, saws, sharpening equipment, shop supplies, wood, etc. You may want it all, but pump the brakes.

“For $1,000 — sometimes less — you can get set up pretty well,” says Jacobs. “There are a lot more hobbies that are a lot more expensive. This is cheaper than owning a boat. Turning has been around thousands of years, and back then turners didn’t have fancy lathes and expensive tools.”

Know Your Lathe

Read every page of the manual. Before you turn anything, learn how each part works.

“Most important, know where the off button is,” says Larson. “Also, make sure your lathe is bolted on a flat surface so there are no vibrations or wobbling when it’s running.”

Protect Yourself

Guard your lungs with a high-quality facemask and, optimally, an air-filtration system. Wear a face shield.

“When you turn, wood chips are flying all over the place, or you could hit a knot or a nail that could fly,” says Larson. “Protect your eyes and face.

“Also, save stressing your hands and arms by using your whole body. Brace the tool handle against your body and move whenever you can. This woodturning dance prevents using a death grip on your tool.”

Have a Dedicated Space for Woodturning

Puetz says some MWA members have a 4-ft. by 4-ft. basement woodturning space enclosed by plastic or shower curtains. Also, have a nearby bench and good lighting.

Puetz hangs a welding curtain in his garage and pulls it out of the way when not turning. He jokes that the best advice for setting up a shop is to talk it over with your spouse, because woodturning makes lots of dust!

Don’t Use Exotic Woods When Learning

Exotic wood is more expensive and often more difficult to turn than more common birch, box elder and soft maple. “While they are pretty, some exotic woods from Africa and South America are hard, which can frustrate beginners,” says Larson. “Hickory and honey locust are also hard woods.”

Listen to the Wood

When turning is going well, your shop is quiet except for a steady, reassuring hiss of the tool shaving wood. If you hear knocking or feel vibrations, pay attention and make changes to get back to the hiss.

“Use your senses not only for technique but also for artistic design,” says Larson. “You may have a design in mind, but you should follow the lead of the wood.

“Pay attention to what the wood wants to be. If you don’t, you may have beautiful feathering in the wood that you cut right through because it doesn’t fit your plan. And then you end up with a plain bowl. But if you notice the feathering and turn the workpiece upside down, you have a beautiful bowl.”

The post Woodturning Basics: Tips for Beginners appeared first on Family Handyman.

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FAMILY HANDYMAN

If you’re looking for an alternative to your cumbersome pneumatic nailer and compressor, look no further. A contractor favorite, the DeWalt 18-gauge cordless brad nailer, features a brushless motor and is compatible with other DeWalt tools with 20-volt batteries. This straight shooter drives nails from 5/8 inches to 2 1/8 inches.

The micro nose improves sight lines and ensures a precision hit while the tool-free jam release and depth adjustment dial make quick work of your job. The intuitive design of the low-nail lockout prevents dry firing, and the nails are clearly visible in the cartridge. Plus, the DeWalt has onboard lights to indicate low battery or jams.

The Dewalt is capable of single fire or sequential bump fire with the flip of a switch. This finish nailer drove 2-inch brads consistently into solid oak and worked perfectly in our testing. This 18-gauge model weighs in at 10.25 pounds, so it’s heavier than most, but if you’re after long-lasting performance and trouble-free operation, the DeWalt delivers. This best-in-class option comes highly recommended by professionals and DIYers alike.

This kit includes the tool, charger, battery and branded carrying bag, but the tool is also sold separately if you already own the DeWalt 20-volt battery and charger.

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Best Budget

Ryobi Airstrike Cordless Brad Nailer

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199.009% OFF$181.99 at Amazon

If you’re looking for a lightweight brad nailer that won’t break the bank, the Ryobi Airstrike is a quality option at only 7 pounds. The Ryobi 18-gauge nailer accommodates 5/8-inch to 2-inch nails and drives 1,900 nails on a single charge. This model performed well and has all the features of more expensive nailers. It uses Ryobi’s One+ battery, which is helpful if you own other tools using the same battery platform.

Like the DeWalt, this model features a light-emitting diode (LED) work light and tool-free jam release. The adjustable air pressure dial is handy for fine-tuning brad depth. O’Donnell adds,  “I have only used this on one occasion, though my father-in-law, who installs flooring for a living, uses his Ryobi cordless nailer on nearly every job and likes it.”

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Best Cordless for Small and Fragile Trim

Craftsman 23-Gauge Pin Nailer

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229.0022% OFF$179 at Amazon

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When you need a precision trim nailer for your carpentry projects, O’Donnell recommends the Craftsman 23-gauge cordless pin nailer. This compact unit gets into tight spaces and doesn’t mar the wood. According to our testing, it can shoot over 1,100 nails on a single charge.

O’Donnell was more than impressed with the performance of the Craftsman and says, “My main criticism of cordless nailers has always been how many nails I could shoot per battery and how likely they were to jam. Using this criteria, I have consistently had the most success with DeWalt cordless nailers, though I was pleasantly surprised when I tested the Craftsman 23-gauge micro pinner.”

This pin nailer accommodates pin nails from 5/8-inch to 1-3/8-inch, has a brushless motor for maintenance-free longevity and only weighs 4 pounds. And on the rare occasion that this tool would create a jam, it’s equipped with a tool-free jam release.

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Best with Framing Nailer Service Agreement

Ridgid 16-Gauge Hyperdrive Finish Nailer

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$279.99 at Amazon

This 16-gauge Ridgid Hyperdrive framing nailer had the strength to drive 2-1/2-inch nails through drywall to hit the studs. If you appreciate longevity in a tool and a company that stands behind their products, this is the best cordless brad nailer for you. This is a ruggedly built tool with the advantage of Ridgid’s lifetime service agreement. Imagine free seals, pistons and driver blades for life.

We like the transparent magazine cover and the two styles of no-mar tips that Ridgid supplies, so you can choose your favorite. You’ll save time and frustration without pulling out additional tools to adjust the depth drive or power adjustment or clear a jam. Easily select between the contact actuation or single sequential actuation mode.

At 6.6 pounds, this 18-volt Ridgid finish nailer easily sinks nails from 3/4 inches to 2 1/2 inches. It fires up to 1,450 nails per charge with the 4.0 amp-hours (Ah) battery (charger sold separately).

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Best for Tight Spaces

DeWalt 16-Gauge Angled Finish Nailer

419.0010% OFF$378 at Amazon

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If you’re looking for a lightweight, heavy-duty cordless finish nailer to get into those hard-to-reach corners and tight spaces, O’Donnell recommends the 16-gauge DeWalt angled finish nailer. It’s compact and easy to maneuver, weighing in at only 6 pounds. He adds, “Because of my cabinetmaker and trim carpenter background, I tend to utilize my 18-gauge brad nailer more often. Even so, I’ve used my 16-gauge finish nailer countless times when I’m installing thick, hardwood trim, like baseboards, or if I’m dealing with an excessively crooked wall and need more holding power.”

This 20-volt machine is ideal for installing crown molding or baseboards. Like the 18-gauge straight DeWalt nailer, this angled finish nailer offers tool-free stall release, depth adjustment, jam release and a selectable trigger for sequential firing. It powers through the job with precision using 1-1/4-inch to 2-1/2-inch nails. With a 110-nail capacity, you’ll finish the job before you know it.

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Best Quick-Response

Senco Fusion F-18XP Cordless Brad Nailer

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449.0018% OFF$366.10 at Amazon

Senco uses a sealed aluminum drive cylinder in conjunction with a motor to drive the brads. This results in good power and almost instantaneous response. We like the balance and feel of this tool, which weighs 6.6 pounds.

If you’re looking for efficiency, another standout feature of the Senco F-18XP is the patented instant shot design for smooth, consistent operation and no ramp-up time. If sequential firing is important for your needs, this may be your best choice, thanks to the quick trigger adjustment and lack of lag time. Like other 18-gauge brad nailers, Senco accommodates 5/8-inch to 2-1/8-inch nails with a 110-nail capacity and a dry-fire lockout. The F-18XP shoots 650 fasteners per charge and takes 60 minutes to fully charge the battery when depleted.

Grab the complete kit, including the tool, battery, charger and tote bag, for your next project and look like a pro.

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Best Fuel-Cell

Paslode 18-Gauge Straight Brad Nailer

339.007% OFF$315 at Amazon

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This cordless brad nailer is in a class of its own. Paslode pioneered cordless nail guns with its fuel-powered nailers. They contain a canister of fuel that provides the driving force when a small amount of fuel is ignited in a cylinder. The advantage of this design is that the battery can be small and light because its main function is to provide ignition for the fuel. These nailers are very powerful, but they have some drawbacks. Mainly, exhaust fumes smell bad, and you have to buy replacement fuel canisters.

The gas-fuel technology is sort of old-school, but it’s tried and true. In our test, this tool was the lightest at 4.5 pounds and felt the most comfortable. If you’re willing to shoulder the additional cost of fuel canisters and put up with the faint smell of exhaust, put this gun at the top of your list. Even more impressive is that this Paslode nailer can shoot up to 12,000 nails per charge for minimal downtime. You’ll love the maneuverability and precision of this 18-gauge brad nailer for fine-trim projects, and with its lightweight design, you’ll experience less fatigue.

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Best Contractor-Grade

Milwaukee M18 Fuel Cordless Brad Nailer

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499.9935% OFF$324.80 at Amazon

It’s no wonder that you’ll find this brad nailer on professional job sites. If you’re in search of the performance of a pneumatic brad nailer without the hassle of the cords and compressor, the Milwaukee M18 Fuel is a reliable choice. The brushless motor of this battery-powered tool means you’ll spend less time maintaining this 18-gauge cordless nailer. Milwaukee uses sealed compression nitrogen to help power this nailer without needing cartridges. As a result, it fires three nails per second with zero ramp-up time.

This tool has a high-quality feel, from the sleek, compact body to the precision brad-depth adjuster. The nailer responds instantly and performed well in our testing. Our only gripe is that the jam-release lever occasionally obscures the view of the tip.

This M18 weighs 6.3 pounds and is outfitted with three non-marring nose pads, dry-fire lockout, sequential firing, adjustable drive depth and a 110-nail capacity magazine. It’s a reliable work partner with a five-year warranty on the tool and a two-year battery warranty.

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Best DIY

Porter-Cable Max Cordless Brad Nailer Kit

$209.99 at Amazon

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Porter-Cable is one of those brands that professional woodworkers rely on, and this 18-gauge straight brad nailer is no exception. We like the weight and balance of this nailer, and it drives brads consistently without a problem. It scored high marks for precise alignment with clear sight lines to the tip. The only downside is the lack of a dry-fire lockout to prevent firing when there are no nails in the magazine, but it’s easy to see your nail supply in the cartridge. That aside, the Porter-Cable has an adjustable depth drive dial and easy-to-read gauge, tool-free jam release, stahl release and safety lock.

This tool weighs 5.9 pounds, and customers find it comfortable to use and ergonomically balanced. Expect to shoot 1,300 nails before you need to charge the 20-volt battery. Compared to the higher-priced models we tested, the Porter-Cable lacks bump firing and features like a dry-fire lockout, but this is a solid tool that’ll make your projects run smoother. 

When you want the perfect finish, Porter-Cable nails it. If you’re new to Porter-Cable tools, be sure to pick up this kit with the battery and charger included.

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Best for Precise Nail Placement

Makita XBN01Z Cordless Brad Nailer

224.959% OFF$204.13 at Amazon

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Makita loyalists love the performance, quality and durability of their saws and drills and find that the brad nailers perform equally as well. This Makita 18-gauge cordless brad nailer is great for DIY projects, especially if you own compatible battery-powered Makita tools. It accommodates nails from 5/8 of an inch to 2 inches and drives up to 1,000 nails on a single charge using the 18-volt 5.0 Ah battery.

Makita offers features like the easy-to-access adjustable drive depth dial, dry-fire lockout and contact or sequential nailing on this tool. In our testing, we love how easy it is to see the tip, aiding in accurate brad placement. But the shape of this nailer gives it a back-heavy feel that we found uncomfortable at 7.32 pounds. This is the only gun requiring a tool to remove the nose to clear jams. Even though Makita is a brand that professionals rely on, if you’ll be using this on a daily basis for long periods, you might want to consider a more comfortable option.

What to Look for When Buying a Cordless Brad Nailer

Before making your decision on which cordless brad nailer is best for your shop, consider these factors:

Tool Weight 

If you’re installing crown molding overhead, a few extra pounds could make the difference between aching shoulders and a pain-free job. Out of the nailers we tested, the Paslode nailer weighs in at a slight 4.7 pounds. At the other end of the spectrum is the 7.32-pound Makita.

Look at the Tip

When you’re installing trim, it’s important to place nails accurately. It helps to have a clear view of the gun tip to install trim with a brad nailer. The Porter-Cable is an example of a gun with sight lines that allow for a clear view of the tip. The tip on the Milwaukee tool is harder to see. To avoid damaging the wood, a non-marring rubber or silicone tip is important for fine woodworking.

Drive Depth

Having an adjustable depth drive is also important for protecting the wood. This feature allows you to adjust for the hardness of the wood and drive nails to the perfect level for your project. Nowadays, the depth drive adjustment is easily accessible with a tool-free dial on the machine’s body.

Dry-Fire Lockout

Many of these nailers have a dry-fire lockout feature that prevents the gun from firing when there are no brads. Without this feature, you could keep on nailing without realizing that the gun had run out of fasteners, wasting time and energy. Most of the guns have a small window in the nail cover with some means of signaling that the brads are running low. We like Ridgid’s transparent cover that shows at a glance how many brads are left and what length they are.

Sequential Firing

In single-fire mode, the trigger needs to be released between shots. Switching to sequential firing allows the trigger to be held down to “bump-fire” brads by just pressing the nose of the nailer against the workpiece. Be aware of this feature, but don’t let it drive an entire buying decision. Bump firing isn’t critical to most trim carpentry or woodworking.

Clearing Jams

In the past, you may have had to disassemble the tool to clear jams. Many newer models have quick-release mechanisms to clear jams quickly. Tool-free jam release is a term you will see when shopping for a user-friendly brad nailer.

Stall Release Feature

Occasionally, the driver in these brad nailers will get stuck. A few tools have a stall release lever to reset the driver. Other tools instruct you to remove and then replace the battery. Then, you press the nose against a scrap of wood and pull the trigger to reset the driver. Be sure to read this section of your instruction manual to see how your tool works.

How We Found the Best Cordless Brad Nailers

Our team of Family Handyman pros tested these brad nailers and have used many of them on their personal and professional building projects. The majority of brad nailers we tested are 18-gauge models, the most versatile brad nailers. To see how these battery-powered brad nailers performed under adverse conditions, we drove hundreds of 2-inch brads into 2-1/4-inch solid oak. Then, we tested in real-world conditions by nailing oak casing to an oak jamb.

You’ll probably never have to drive a 2-inch brad into solid oak—even some conventional nailers can’t do that. But hey, we thought it would be an interesting test. The Makita and Ryobi nailers were the only ones that struggled with this task, but every model we tried is capable of driving 1-1/2-inch brads through 3/4-inch oak into a pine jamb, which is (probably) the most difficult nailing job you’ll encounter in normal circumstances.

In our testing, we had very few brads get jammed in the tip of the tool. But when this does happen, it’s nice to be able to clear the tip without tools. All of the brad nailers, except Makita, have tool-free jam clearing. On most tools, you release a latch on the front to access the jammed brad. You just release the nail clip cover to access a jam on the Milwaukee tool.

Most of the nailers we tested use the motor to compress air in a cylinder. The compressed air pushes a piston that drives the brads. While the Paslode uses a cartridge of ignited fuel in addition to battery power, DeWalt and Porter-Cable have taken a different approach from the two methods above. In their nailers, a spinning flywheel provides the driving force. To ensure rapid firing, a few of these nailers rev up as soon as you press the nose to the workpiece.

Other than the significantly lighter weight of the Paslode, we didn’t find any advantage of one technology over the other. The flywheel models have a split-second delay, but it’s not bother­­­some. Regardless of the tech behind them, every model drove brads well enough to install standard trim.

FAQ

What’s better: a 16-gauge or 18-gauge brad nailer?

The 16-gauge model will drive longer nails for stronger fastening, while an 18-gauge brad nailer is meant for finer trim and carpentry work. “As with any fastener, the length is determined by its application,” says O’Donnell. “When working with trim between 3/4-inch and 1/2-inch thick, I always use brad nails between 1-1/2 and 2 inches in length.”

“In the last decade, cordless brad nailers have come a long way,” O’Donnell continues. “For large jobs, like framing, I still prefer a pneumatic nail gun and compressor. But I immediately reach for a cordless brad nailer for smaller jobs if I am just nailing up some quarter-round or re-securing a flooring threshold.”

Can I use a brad nailer for baseboards?

Absolutely, a brad nailer is the tool to use to install baseboards.

Is a compressor-powered brad nailer or cordless nailer better?

Compressor-powered brad nailers have the advantage of being smaller and lighter, and you don’t have to worry about keeping a battery charged. Plus, you can buy a kit containing a brad nailer, a small compressor and a hose for about the same price as one of these battery-powered nailers. On the other hand, it’s convenient to be able to grab a battery-powered brad nailer and start working without setting up the compressor and having to drag a hose around behind you. If you’re considering cutting the cord from a compressor-powered brad nailer to the convenience of a battery-powered tool, check out our cordless tool guide.

How do you use a DeWalt cordless brad nailer?

DeWalt is one of the most reliable and feature-rich brad nailers on the market. First, read the user guide and get familiar with the tool. Operation of a cordless nail gun is as easy as charging the battery and having some scrap wood to practice on. Get to know the depth drive adjustments on different wood species. Get a feel for the rhythm of your tool, its lag time, bump features or consecutive firing modes. The more comfortable you are with the tool, the easier it will be to tackle your project.

Why You Should Trust Us

Our hands-on testing team works on projects in the trenches each day. These experts have experience with an array of tools, large and small, including battery-powered nail guns. As cordless tools become more popular, we wanted to share their insights and testing results to help you make the right purchase for your investment.

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