Use Quality Grout

The phrase “you get what you pay for” definitely applies to grout. While pre-mixed grout from a home center seems simple and inexpensive, plan to pay at least $30 to $45 for high-quality grout.

I always buy grout as a dry product from a tile store, then mix it carefully in small batches using a margin trowel. However, if you want to avoid mixing, Yodice recommends using a single-component grout like Laticrete Spectralock. “The single component grouts are a bit stronger, and this is why it is our go-to for most tile installation projects,” she says.

Use the Right Grout for the Job

The tile material and size of the grout joints will determine which grout is best. For example, if you install glass or honed marble tile, consider avoiding sanded grout.

“If you’re not careful, you can scratch the tile surface,” Ricalde says. For these tile types, use a narrower joint size, or use a single component grout like Spectralock. Yodice recommends to always consult the manufacturer’s safety data sheet for grout recommendations. A typical rule of thumb is to use unsanded grout for joints less than 1/8 inch and sanded grout for joints larger than 1/8 inch.

Follow Mixing Directions Carefully

If you followed the tip above to buy a dry grout that requires mixing, you’ll need to follow the manufacturer’s mixing directions exactly as they’re written. Grout is typically mixed in two stages. During the initial mix, you add dry grout slowly to measured water and combine it for a specified length of time. This is then followed by a length of time you let the mix sit, aka slake, undisturbed. A final, second mixing is then conducted for another specific, usually shorter, length of time.

Follow Dry Times

Grouting is done in stages, with different wait times in between. Times will vary based on the product, so follow the manufacturer’s recommendations. Typically, after applying grout and scraping excess away with the float there’s a wait time of 15 to 45 minutes before you can use a damp sponge to wipe tile clean. Then you wait again for the haze to dry before buffing with a microfiber cloth. Waiting for enough time to pass before completing the next step is crucial to a professional-looking, long-lasting result.

Break the Project into Sections

Grout starts to set up quickly, so work in small sections. If you apply grout to too large of an area, you may end up rushing to clean off excess or have dried grout stuck to the tile face.

For a backsplash, work in a 3 x 1-1/2 foot area at a time. Apply the grout, then remove any excess before adding new grout. Keep track of the time so you return to earlier sections to wipe the tile down with a sponge before too much time has passed.

Use Caulk Where Tile Meets Counter

“Using 100 percent silicone caulking is an absolute must where the tile meets your countertops,” Yodice says. “This allows your tile assembly to have the proper room for expansion.” Also, apply caulk in corners where tile meets tile and along cabinet undersides.

For professional-looking results, use painter’s tape for a clean edge. “It may look good at first,” Ricalde says, “but grout along these joints will always crack eventually.” Most manufacturers sell caulk in corresponding colors to their grout products.

Press Grout Firmly Into Joints

For grout to effectively hold tile in place, the joints need to be fully filled.

Use a rubber float for this process. Take a scoop of grout onto the edge of the float. While applying firm pressure, push and scrape the grout into the joint with the float. Hold the float at a 45-degree angle to the tile and repeat this motion from different angles to force the grout into the full joint depth. Use a small rubber margin trowel to reach tighter spaces.

Clean Your Sponge Often

After scraping away excess grout with the float and waiting for the recommended time, clean the tile and joints with a damp tiling sponge. You’ll need clean water and a frequently cleaned sponge to do this successfully.

Ricalde likes to work with two 5-gallon buckets of clean water and a couple of sponges. “This way I can keep the sponges really clean,” he says. I only do one swipe per side with a sponge before dunking it and wringing it out. While tedious, I’ve found this puts less water into the joints.

Don’t Overwork Grout Lines

When cleaning the tile face and joints with the sponge, avoid the temptation to scrub the tile face clean, or get grout lines perfect. “Go lightly over the grout lines,” Ricalde says. “Don’t push the sponge into the joints, or you’ll remove too much grout.”

Use a clean, well-wrung sponge and avoid pressing down, which squeezes water out of the sponge. Too much water in the grout can lead to cracking and subpar performance when it dries.

Maintain a Clean Work Area

Grouting can get messy. Cover your counters with butcher paper, work slowly and clean as you go to make this project a smooth project. Apply grout in an upward motion to minimize the amount that drops from the float. Also take care to keep grout off of neighboring surfaces, walls and cabinets. This drastically reduces clean-up time and reduces waste. I also wear latex gloves when grouting and change them frequently as I work to keep my tools clean.

FAQ

Can you use sanded grout on a backsplash?

You can use sanded grout on a backsplash, but it’s usually not necessary unless you’re working with large joints over 1/8-inch. Also, avoid using sanded grout with glass and honed marble tile if possible, as it can leave scratches if you’re not careful.

Do I need to seal the backsplash grout?

“You don’t have to use a sealer [on the backsplash grout], but it won’t hurt if you do,” Ricalde says. This is true for most sanded and unsanded grout. Epoxy grout does not need a separate sealer application.

Do you grout or caulk between backsplash and countertop?

You should apply caulk between the backsplash and countertop. Caulk will flex with the movement between the two surfaces, unlike grout, which will crack in this application.

About the Experts

• Paul Ricalde creates home improvement videos on his YouTube channel, Paul’s Toolbox with over 360,000 subscribers. He has over thirty years of experience in construction.
• Schannon Yodice is a contractor and host of YouTube’s ThatTIleChick, offering detailed how-to videos for homeowners and DIYers. She also created the Online Tile Academy, an online school to help students learn how to install waterproof showers and set tile.

The post 11 Tips on How to Grout a Backsplash appeared first on Family Handyman.

What are the best tools for grout removal?

If you don’t have a recip saw, aka a reciprocating saw, or you’re dying to get your hands on a new oscillating tool, this is your chance to find a grout removal tool. While either is a solid choice for chewing through old grout, both come with their own pros and cons.

A recip saw is best suited for less dainty jobs that require a large amount of demolition. An oscillating tool, on the other hand, is a bit easier to control than a recip saw because it’s smaller and has a much shorter blade stroke. Plus, you can rotate the cutting head, so it’s a tad more versatile.

With either tool, you’ll need to be careful not to chip the tile. We’ve tried both systems, and they work equally fast, but the oscillating tool does get you a bit tighter into corners. With either method, you’ll still have to scrape some areas by hand.

Grout Removal Method #1: Reciprocating Saw

• Install the carbide-grit grout blade into your recip saw so it points down while the saw handle is pointing up.
• Apply power and “saw” out the grout.

Grout Removal Method #2: Oscillating Tool

• Chuck up either a 1/16-in. or 1/8-in.-wide blade (depending on the grout width) and go to town.
• Rotate the blade and rechuck it to maneuver into tight corners.

The post How to Remove Grout With a Reciprocating Saw or an Oscillating Tool appeared first on Family Handyman.

Make sure to do a bit of research first to avoid common pitfalls or mistakes; check that you’re using the correct kind of caulk for the task at hand, for example. But once you’ve confirmed that you’re using the right materials for the project, you can go ahead and get to color-matching.

Tools

• Mixing Board
• 3-in. putty knife
• Zip-top freezer bag
• Plastic spoon

Materials

• Caulk
• Colored grout
• Painters tape

Step 1: Use Grout to Color-Match the Caulk

Squeeze some caulk onto a mixing board, making sure you use enough to complete the entire job; it’ll be hard to match the color across the whole project if you have to add more later. Then add colored grout to the caulk and mix thoroughly with a 3-in. putty knife. Add in colored grout as you go, a little at a time, until you’ve got a match for the existing grout.

Step 2: Tape Off the Caulking Area and Apply the Mixture

Once you’ve mixed in enough grout to color-match your existing grout, it’s time to load the grout/colored caulk mixture into a zip-top freezer bag and apply it. Applying it should feel like icing a cupcake with a pastry bag.

Scoop a hefty portion into the bag. Zip the top shut and snip off one bottom corner. Then apply the caulk/grout bead to your tub and tool the joint with a plastic spoon or wet finger.

Pull the tape free before the caulk sets up. Finish any cleanup and then you’re done! Coloring caulk to match you grout is deceptively easy and is a useful skill to have.

The post Here’s an Easy Way to Match Caulk and Grout Colors appeared first on Family Handyman.

Dry-Pack Mortar

This is the traditional tile backer. First, felt paper is stapled to the floor and covered with expanded metal lath. Then cement, sand and water are mixed together to a crumbly consistency and floated over the lath to form a flat surface.

Given the complexity, it’s easy to see why even experienced tile setters avoid dry-pack mortar and use backer board instead when they can. But a mortar bed does have advantages. There is no cutting or fitting of boards, and a mortar bed is good for leveling and flattening uneven or out-of-level floors, which are common in old houses. If you are good with a trowel and understand how to set up and use screeds as a guide for leveling or forming the mortar, pouring a traditional mortar bed may be a good alternative to tile backer board, especially on uneven or sloping floors.

Self-Leveling Underlayment

If you are laying tile on floors that are wavy or out of level, self-leveling underlayment is a great solution. Self-leveling underlayment has many of the same advantages as a dry-pack mortar bed but doesn’t require as much skill to install. You still use metal lath, but then mix bags of powder and pour the soupy mix onto the floor. It is a fast process that is hard to mess up if you do it right.

But there are downsides. Using self-leveling underlayment takes careful prep work. You have to seal every little hole in the floor so the underlayment doesn’t seep into spaces below. Plus, most self-leveling formulas harden very fast, so you have to plan carefully so you can mix and pour quickly.

Cement Board

Cement board is the most common and widely-known backer board. Cement board is readily available and relatively inexpensive (about $10 for a 3 x 5-ft. sheet). The 30-in. x 5-ft. and 3 x 5-ft. sheets of cement board are sized for efficient use around bathtubs and showers. The core isn’t waterproof, but it can withstand getting wet without falling apart, so even if your waterproofing system leaks, the board will stay intact. On the downside, the cement boards are heavy, somewhat difficult to cut and can leave abrasive sandy crumbs that can damage tubs and shower bases if you’re not careful.

Cement board is a good, reliable backer board that works well on both floors and walls. Keep in mind that most tile setters err on the side of caution and brush a waterproofing membrane on top of cement board when it is in wet areas like showers or tub surrounds.

Fiber Cement Board

Fiber cement board is a variation of cement board that is made from compressed cement and sand and reinforced with wood fibers throughout. Like cement board, the boards are heavy and hard to cut. On top of that, fiber cement board is even more brittle than standard cement board, so you have to be extra careful to keep screws at least an inch from the edge to avoid breaking the board. Fiber cement board is available in 1/4-inch and 1/2-inch thicknesses. The 1/4-inch-thick board is typically used on floors and countertops. As fiber cement board is similar to regular cement board, it makes sense to choose the one that is cheaper or more readily available.

Foam Board

Foam-core tile backing board has two big advantages over other backer boards. First, it’s super lightweight compared with the rest. A 1/2-inch thick, 3 x 5 foot sheet weighs just 7-1/2 pounds, compared with 45 pounds for a similar size sheet of cement board. And second, since it’s foam, the board is super easy to cut with just a utility knife. Another advantage is that the polyisocyanurate core of foam boards is waterproof. That means that you do not have to rely on a surface membrane or worry about the board failing if the core is exposed to water. However, you do still have to take care to waterproof the seams and the fastener penetrations to create a waterproof assembly.

Glass Mat Gypsum

Water-resistant gypsum board, or “green board,” was used in the past as a tile backer but is no longer recommended, mainly because better products are available. Glass mat gypsum board is a better choice. Sheets of glass mat gypsum are made from water-resistant silicone-treated gypsum, reinforced on both sides by fiberglass mats. DensShield is one common brand. It is easier to cut than cement board, it is mold resistant, and it has a built-in moisture barrier. Dean, our tile consultant, says glass mat backer board is his first choice due to the ease of installation, cost, and because his workers like it.

Dimple Mat

If you are looking for a way to minimize height buildup and eliminate a large level difference at thresholds, a mat product is a good solution. Ditra is a 1/8-inch thick polyethylene membrane with a layer of anchoring fleece on the underside and a grid of square cavities on top. Installation is simple- just trowel a layer of thin-set adhesive on the floor and embed the mat in it, then fill the cavities with thin-set. This creates a strong, waterproof tile backer that also functions as an uncoupling membrane. The completed assembly takes the place of more traditional backer board when installed over 3/4-inch wood subfloors.

The post Pros and Cons of Various Tile Backers appeared first on Family Handyman.

Glass Mosaic Backsplashes

This is the “top of the list” no-no for interior designer and TikTok user Phoenix Grey (@phoenixgrey). In one particular video, he rails glass mosaic backsplashes for being “too busy” aesthetically and explains that “the extra amount of grout means that they’re grimier and much harder to clean.” Yikes!

Limestone Backsplashes

Thanks to its gorgeous soft texture and warm neutral color, limestone is having a major moment in interior design. However, because it is so porous, it will collect water and likely grow mildew in its micro-holes. Save this material for less humid spaces and opt for limewash paint in your kitchen to channel that organic vibe.

Lacquer and Stainless Steel Backsplashes

According to Patrick W. Smith, a Real Estate Broker at The Corcoran Group in Long Island, these materials have no staying power. He claims that current buyers are replacing them right away.

Zellige Tile Backsplashes

For the uninitiated, zellige tiles are stunning hand-made Moroccan ceramics. They come both glazed and unglazed, and while they are the gold standard in artisan tiling options, their natural, charming imperfections make them nearly impossible to wipe down quickly.

Subway Tile Backsplashes

As both Grey and Evelyn Long of Renovated.com point out, this trend is just too played-out. The “basic” white tiles were everywhere for a few years, and now they scream unoriginality. If you’re still dedicated to the trend, Grey suggests installing the subway tiles in a modern chevron, vertical stack or box lay pattern for a little more personality.

Themed Backsplashes

Farm animals, vegetables and fruits may have been cute for a while, but they don’t have universal appeal, according to Smith. They can look kitschy, so we recommend opting for other tasteful vintage tile options, especially if you’re trying to sell.

Pebble Tile Backsplashes

According to Long, the variety of textures and tones in pebble tile backsplashes make a kitchen look cluttered. They were popular in the 2010s to impart a “spa-like aesthetic,” but now can be “too much for your eyes to handle.” While you’re at it, check out these Mexican tile backsplash ideas.

Any Highly Reflective Backsplashes

Grey explains that “the high reflectivity of these finishes make your space and your kitchen look extremely cluttered [since] everything around it is reflected. It’s also going to show every spot and watermark that you forgot to Windex.”

OK, So What Materials Are Good for Backsplashes?

Smith suggests looking for a subtle material that seamlessly integrates into your kitchen space. In his words, “a good kitchen backsplash should enhance the interior design of the kitchen and home. It should be beautiful to look at and yet easy to maintain and clean.” He also suggests opting for a tile or stone in a pattern that “lends itself to the outlets being installed horizontally as opposed to vertically for a seamless look.”

Glazed ceramic tiles are always a great choice, especially in a rich color that adds visual interest. Additionally, strong-veined marble is having a moment, and if you have countertops in a special material like marble or quartzite, Smith says that a backsplash in the same material looks clean. For those who rent, peel-and-stick backsplashes are always a solid option. As with much of interior design, it’s all about balance—you want to showcase your personality while not overpowering the whole space.

The post 8 Backsplashes to Avoid, According to Interior Designers appeared first on Family Handyman.

Despite scouring resale and vintage shops in the area, I couldn’t find the vintage tiles I needed. My solution? I painted white tiles to try to match the blue and coated them with clear spray-on enamel. It wasn’t the best match, but it did the job, and wasn’t very noticeable behind the toilet anyway.

As it turns out, had I scoured the internet a little more diligently, I might have found dealers who specialize in selling and reproducing vintage tiles for kitchens, bathrooms, fireplace mantles and other parts of the home. We asked several to shed some light on what makes tile vintage, how to work with vintage tile, and why it’s worth trying to find the real thing.

What Is Vintage Tile?

“Vintage” is a word that gets tossed around easily. There no a hard-and-fast cutoff point where tile becomes vintage.

Josh Blanc, artist and owner at Clay Squared to Infinity in Minneapolis, Minnesota, says “vintage tiles in America are tiles that were installed in homes built from the 1890s to the 1950s. Each period had distinctive styles and colors.”

Scott Wells, owner of Wells Tiles & Antiques in Los Angeles, says vintage tile can be a little younger. “In our 30 years of business selling tile, we’ve learned that the term ‘vintage’ is used very loosely,” Wells says. “We consider vintage tile that is approximately 30 years or older. Antique tile is 100 years old and, of course, much harder to find.”

The qualities that make tiles vintage include their dimensions, glazes and other aspects of manufacture. All eras used unglazed porcelain tiles, Blanc says, so the color went all the way through the tile. Victorian floor tiles, he says, typically had borders and highly decorative patterning.

Bungalow-style homes, including the popular Sears, Roebuck and Co. kit homes of the early 20th century, “tended to use unglazed porcelain hexagons and used more solid colors with florets and other smaller florets as their design tools,” Blanc says.

Blanc says mid-century homes “went to multi-sized patterns” and often used unglazed porcelain tiles as small as 3/4-in. by 1- 9/16-in.

Can Modern Tile Be Used to Match Vintage Tile?

If you’re trying to replace only a section of vintage tile, it may be tough to find a match.

“Modern reproduction tiles focus on a few iconic designs and mass produce them at a low price,” says Blanc. One example: hexagons tiles in white with black florets. “They look like a classic tile from the bungalow period,” he says, “but they offer little to no customization or variations in color choices and sizes.”

Additionally, modern tiles will simply not match up to vintage in many cases because of their different glaze techniques. Even if you can’t get an exact match, artisans like Blanc and his team produce reproduction vintage tiles that adhere to vintage patterns and color schemes.

Is Vintage Tile Better Made Than Modern Tile?

Many homeowners want to preserve or recreate a vintage style simply out of design preference. But beyond aesthetics, are there advantages to using vintage tile, or is modern tile better? Wells leans towards the old stuff.

“Most of our older tiles are approximately 1/2-in. thick,” Wells says, “Whereas today, most new tile is between 1/4-in. to 3/8-in. thick so I would say, not as durable.”

Blanc says “the [tile] industry expects homeowners to change styles and rip out what was put as the next trend takes hold.” But ceramic tile is extremely durable, he says, and “is supposed to be a 100 year product no matter what tile you choose.” Installation will make all the difference in how well a tile project holds up.

How To Clean Vintage Tile

“Grout needs to be redone on a semi-regular basis depending on use,” says Blanc. “It saves home owners lots of money and makes their tile installation look new again.”

If you choose to hire a professional rather than tackle your grout repair as a DIY job, he recommends The Grout Doctor, which has locations across the US.

If you go the DIY route for routine tile cleaning, Blanc recommends mixing a solution with these elements:

• 1/4 cup white vinegar;
• Two teaspoons borax;
• 3-1/2 cup hot water;
• Twenty drops essential oil (he prefers lavender or lemon);
• 1/4 cup liquid dish soap.

Once mixed, put the solution in a spray bottle and spritz the tile surfaces. Then wipe clean with a paper towel or washcloth. A sponge or soft brush will work as well, but avoid any abrasive cleaning tools.

Can Vintage Tiles Be Repaired?

If a maintenance or repair job in your home broke a few tiles, you might piece them back together and reinstall them. But it’s unlikely the repair will be “invisible.” Unless you had clean breaks and retained all the tile pieces, cracks along repair lines are going to show.

And if a structural problem damaged the tiles, Blanc says you’ll likely need to chisel them out and investigate the problem.

Where to Buy Vintage Tile

“It’s always advisable to search for the old tile if one is trying to match an existing installation,” says Wells. “Even if the new tile has the same design, it would stand out noticeably next to the original antique/vintage tile.”

Wells says his Los Angeles store offers the country’s largest inventory of vintage tile. Even so, if you have a large tile job in mind and you’re set on vintage, be prepared for some flexibility. “It’s difficult to obtain a large amount of vintage or antique tile, so finding enough, especially from one source, for an entire room would be a chore,” he says.

Blanc’s studio and showroom sells vintage reproduction tiles. He also recommends Restoration Tile, another producer of historic reproductions. And he’s a fan of Retro Renovation, an online resource for vintage home restoration and materials.

Closer to home, you can scour thrift stores and architectural salvage companies for genuine vintage tiles.

The post What To Know About Vintage Tiles appeared first on Family Handyman.

James Upton, a bathroom remodeling specialist and founder of DIYTileGuy.com.  explains homeowners may be motivated to change their grout color for several reasons.

“It could be that they want to go from a blending grout color to a contrasting color or vice versa,” says Upton. “Another reason could be that the existing grout color is more difficult to maintain and keep looking fresh.”

Can You Change the Color of Grout?

Yes. Since tiling isn’t structurally dependent on the grout, you can change the color without tearing up the tile and starting over.

Is Changing Your Grout Color a DIY Project?

Yes, it’s definitely a task a DIYer can handle. “It may even be difficult to find a professional in the area willing to take the project on,” Upton says.

Changing grout color involves minimal tools. As long as you have some patience, it shouldn’t be too challenging to complete. There’s also more than one way to change grout color, so you can choose the method best suited for you and the tools you have on hand.

The first and easiest method? Using a colorant painted onto the existing grout. The other method is removing the old grout and re-grouting with a new color.

How To Change Grout Color: Re-Paint Existing Grout

Painting your existing grout with a special colorant is the least labor-intensive method. You’ll need a bottle of grout colorant of your preferred color; Upton recommends Mapei. You’ll also need a small brush and a microfiber cloth. In Upton’s experience, it’s generally easier to go from a light color to dark color.

“If you have white subway tile, it’s easier to paint your white grout joints charcoal gray than it is to turn charcoal gray to white,” says Upton. “Doing the latter may require multiple applications.”

Here’s how to do it:

1. Thoroughly clean your grout and tile, then allow it to completely dry.
2. Shake your colorant bottle and apply it to your grout lines with a brush. Cover the lines completely.
3. Allow the colorant to dry. The time may vary depending on the product.
4. Wipe excess colorant off your tiles. If you have textured tiles, mist them with water and rub with a microfiber towel. For smooth or polished tiles, simply wipe the entire area with a paper towel or microfiber cloth.
5. Keep people off the tile for at least two hours.

How To Change Grout Color: Remove and Replace

Removing the grout and re-grouting with your color choice may be a better option for some, Upton says, “especially if you want to change to a lighter color or the original grout is too loose or powdery. ” He recommends using an electric oscillating tool along with a circular carbide grout removal blade.

If your tiles have very narrow grout joints, like marble or subway tile, Upton says a simple utility knife could work well enough. You’ll need to buy new grout as well as the tools and materials necessary for grout application. Then proceed:

1. Remove existing grout with an oscillating tool or utility knife, taking care to avoid damaging the tiles.
2. Clean and vacuum grout joints to remove dust and debris. According to Upton, the grout joint needs to be at least 1/8-inch deep to allow the new grout to be applied effectively.
3. Apply new grout.
4. Allow to completely dry before walking on it.

The post How To Change Grout Color appeared first on Family Handyman.

What Is Grout?

According to James Upton, bathroom remodeling specialist and founder of DIYTileGuy.com, “Grout is a cement or chemical-based material used for filling spaces in-between tiles.” He further clarifies that grout is part of the finished look of the tile and not what is used to adhere the tiles to the floor.

Types of Grout

Upton explains that there have been some recent developments with grout, so it’s not as simple to categorize as it was even a few years ago. Essentially, there are two basic types of grout: cement-based and non-cement based.

Cement-Based

The traditional grout that most people are familiar with is made from a cement-based mix. These grouts were only available in sanded or unsanded options in the past, which are porous and vulnerable to stains. According to Upton, a new type of cement-based grout known as “high performance” cement grout is now available. He explains that this new grout is stronger, more color-consistent, and less porous than previous generations of cement-based grouts. Since it’s fast-setting, care must be taken during installation so you don’t find yourself with dried grout before it’s properly washed and detailed.

Non-Cement Based

Epoxy grout— made of epoxy resins combined with a filler— is very hard and durable, and won’t stain like cement-based grouts. Once you mix the ingredients together, a chemical reaction begins and you have a limited amount of time to install the grout before it cures completely.

Single-component grouts are another non-cement-based option. Upton explains that this name is somewhat misleading, as “these used to be solely urethane-based but many of the products on the market nowadays include multiple ingredients and so a more broad category name was required.” These products don’t provide the hardness or stain resistance of epoxy, but in Upton’s opinion, “the finished appearance is more appealing, especially on walls.”

The Purpose of Grout

Although it doesn’t adhere the tiles to the floor as some might think, grout does serve several important purposes.

• Strengthen the Tiles: Tiles can expand and contract during heating and cooling cycles. By filling in the space between individual tiles, grout absorbs this pressure, allowing for movement and preventing tile cracks.
• Visual Appeal: Properly applied grout adds a seamless, professional look to your tilework, and by customizing the width and color, can complement and accentuate the patterns in your tiles. Grout also makes it easier to create mosaics and complex tile patterns by securing tiles in place and preventing them from sliding around.
• Keeps the floor clean: By creating a seamless surface, grout prevents dirt, bacteria, and spilled food from getting caught between tiles. This also makes it much easier to sweep or mop up when it’s time to clean. This also prevents water from seeping into the subfloor, reducing the chances of moisture damage.

Grout Installation Considerations

• Grout joint size: This measurement is the width of the grout between the tiles. Upton explains that “in general, wider grout joints will make it easier to install and line up the tiles during installation. But, it seems that thinner grout joints are more desirable these days.” He adds that a common width is 1/8-3/16-inch, with 1/16th of an inch being the absolute minimum, according to tile industry standards. Learn how to grout the tile.

• Grout sealers: Sealers help to make cement-based grout less porous, but, as Upton explains, they’re not miracle products. Sealers won’t completely seal the pores of the grout or make it totally waterproof or stainproof, although they may help keep some contaminants from penetrating it. Upton adds that many high-performance cement grouts claim that they don’t need to be sealed, but that doesn’t necessarily mean that they won’t benefit from one. Since epoxy and single-component grouts are not cement-based, they won’t benefit from a grout sealer and do not need to be sealed.
• Color: Grout can be a visual element of your tile project as well. A good rule of thumb is to choose a darker color if you want to accentuate the pattern of the tile, and a lighter shade if you want to create a unified, natural look. Darker-colored grout is also easier to keep looking clean, and won’t stain as noticeably as lighter grout.

The post What Is Grout? What To Know appeared first on Family Handyman.

Touch up Nicks and Scratches

Restore Free Flow to a Faucet

Painting Kitchen Cabinets

Appliance Touch-up Paint

Stain Markers

Under-Cabinet Cleanup

Kitchen Window Plant Perch

Above-the-Door Shelves

Add a Spice Shelf

Hang a Shelf Over Your Towel Bar

Install a New Tub and Shower Trim Kit

Add a Second Medicine Cabinet and Shelves

Hang a Mirror Behind the Door

Install a Curved Shower Curtain Rod

The post Quick Home Upgrades That Deliver Big Results appeared first on Family Handyman.

Keep these elements in mind when you’re sizing and positioning your shower.

The tile layout: It’s easier to determine this if you select your wall tile ahead of time. Plan your tile layout to account for edges and corners, and shift the starting point if needed.

Shower doors: If your shower will have a door, pick it out in advance to make sure the shower opening accommodates it. Don’t forget to allow for the thickness of the tile and the cement board. When you’re determining the size of the shower door and the direction it should swing, consider other bathroom doors and fixtures.

Plumbing: It’s much easier to hook up a new shower located near existing plumbing. If you’re installing your shower in a remote location, create a plan that accounts for new plumbing configurations.

Joist span and floor supports: The shower we designed and installed here weighs upward of 1,000 pounds, or about the same as a spa with a couple of people in it!

If you live in an older home with 2×6 or 2×8 floor joists, you may need to beef up the floor with some beams or extra joists. If you’re unsure, consult a building inspector. And if your house was built in the 1970s, it could have a 5/8-in. particleboard underlayment that needs to be removed before starting.

Draw the floor

• Draw the outline of the shower floor on the subfloor to use as a pattern for setting the mortar forms.
• If doing a curved curb, lightly hammer a 10d nail next to the wall. Tie string to the nail and strike an arc for the curved form board.

Confirm the layout

Lay out the shower on the subfloor using your finish materials to define its size and shape for shower pan installation.

Open the walls

Caution: Turn off the main breaker at the electrical panel before cutting into walls to avoid electrical shock. Cut carefully and slowly to avoid damaging hidden wires or plumbing.

• Cut the existing walls to the planned width dimensions for the shower walls with a reciprocating saw or drywall knife.
• Use 3-in. construction screws to install additional studs in the wall to support the cement board/drywall seam.
• Cut the top of the drywall at six feet, two inches above the plywood floor to allow for the slope fill and two layers of 3-ft.-wide cement board. If your planned slope is higher than two inches, adjust as needed.

Form the curb

• Toe-screw 2×6 blocking between the studs with 3-in. construction screws on the interior walls at the base of the shower to support the vinyl liner.

For curved curbs:

Toe-screw 2×4 blocks to the subfloor every 12 inches and 1/2-in. outside the line to allow for the thickness of the plywood.

• Use the circular saw to rip the 1/2-in. plywood to four inches. Fasten it to the backside of the blocks with 2-1/2-in. screws.
• Use 10d nails to secure 1- by 3/4-in. screed guides against the inside shower walls only. Removable screed guides will be used against the curve. Screed guides provide a straight edge to rest a screed board on as it’s moved to level the mortar.
• Rough-in the plumbing and drain water lines.

For straight curbs:

• Fasten a 2×4 into the subfloor with 2-1/2-in. construction screws, right next to the line.
  
• Use 2-1/2-in. screws to secure two 2x4s onto the original 2×4 to create a 4-1/2-in. curb.
• Use 10d nails to install 1- by 3/4-in. screed guides against the inside of the shower walls and the curb.
• Rough-in the plumbing and drain water lines.

First layer of mortar

• Remove the top half of the shower drain and plug the drain pipe with a rag to prevent debris from falling in.
• For curved curbs, measure and mark a line 1-in. from the subfloor along the inside of the 1/2-in. plywood.
• Pile mortar against the curved plywood and compact it down to the line with a wood float.
• Pack the remaining shower area with mortar using a wood float, then use the 1×4 screed board to screed the mortar along the 1-in. screed guides. For straight curbs, do this step across the entire shower floor surface.
• Work the surface smooth with a wood float and smooth with a steel finish trowel.
• Let the mortar harden overnight.

Lay in the liner

• Install the liner, running it up onto the walls at least six inches. Fasten it to the studs with roofing nails at the top edge.
• Feel the drain flange bolts with your fingers and draw and carefully cut the liner with a utility knife to fit just outside the bolts.

For curved curbs:

• Cut off the liner against the plywood 1/2-in. below the top of the form.

For straight curbs:

• Start at the top of the curb and carefully cut the liner to width.
• Wrap the liner over the curb to the bathroom floor outside the shower. Cut off any excess.
• From the outside of the shower, fasten the liner to the curb with roofing nails near the floor. Keep the liner close to the curb and shower floor inside the shower to keep a right angle. Do not use nails on the inside of the curb.

Fold the corners

• Chisel out the inside corners of the framing to create a recess for the liner folds.
• Fold in the liner corners to create a neat fold, then fasten it to a stud with a roofing nail at the top edge.

Make a drain hole

• Cut out the vinyl liner for the drain with a utility knife, cutting just outside of the bolt holes.
• Run a bead of silicone caulk around the outer edge of the flange.
• Bolt down the top half of the drain assembly.
• Cover the top of the drain with duct tape to protect it during the installation of the mortar bed and tile.

Attach the tile backer board

• Install cement board over the vinyl liner and screw it to the studs with coated cement board screws every eight inches.
• Use a drywall saw to cut slots in the cement board to go over curbed areas against the walls.
• Tape the seams with fiberglass tape.
• Use a 4-in. taping knife to apply a layer of thin-set mortar or mastic to the fiberglass tape.

Pro tip: When setting the cement board, face the smooth side out. This makes it much easier to spread the tile adhesive and get a flat surface for tiling and drawing tile layout lines.

Add the metal lath

• With a pair of tin snips, cut and lay galvanized expanded metal lath on top of the liner, just short of the cement board edges.
• To shape the lath for the curb, bend 12-in. by 3-ft. lengths over a 2×4.

For a curved curb:

• Keep the lath height 1/2- to 3/4-in. under the form height to account for the final mortar layer.
• Fold the vinyl liner and drop the pre-bent curb lath over the top of it.
• Poke a galvanized 10d nail through the lath and top edge of the liner to keep the liner from collapsing while you pack the curb with mortar.

For a straight curb:

• Bend and wrap the metal lath around the curb to the bathroom floor.

Pro tips: For a curved curb, make a series of slits every 10 inches to bend it to the shape of the hardboard form. And avoid walking on the lath. Its sharp edges can puncture your waterproof membrane.

Cover the lath with mortar

• Snap chalk lines against the cement board 1-1/4-in. above the sloped fill.
• Use needle-nose pliers to adjust the top of the drain by screwing it up or down until it’s one inch above the top of the slope fill.
• Pile mortar against the wall and compact it down to the line with a wood float.
• Use the packed mortar as a guide for screeding off the mortar between the wall and the drain.
• Use the screed board to locate high or low areas.
• Pack in mortar to fill depressions. Scrape off excess in the high spots.
• Use a steel finish trowel to smooth the bed and to create sharp edges at all corners for a cleaner tiling job.

Mortar the curb

For curved curbs:

• Pack mortar into the lath with a wood float around the folded liner. Make sure to pack mortar down between the lath and the plywood.
• Screed the curb with a 3/4-in. plywood jig. The jig should be an L-shape, with a 1-1/4-in. height at the inside corner. The curb width should be 3-1/8-in., so mark this on the jig to follow as you screed.
• After screeding, tool the edges of the curb with a finish trowel to obtain crisp edges.

For straight curbs:

• Pack mortar into the lath on all three curb walls with a wood float. Use the float and finish trowel to smooth the mortar and create square edges.
• Work in sections until the curb is complete.
• Tool the edges of the curb with the trowel to obtain crisp edges.

Adjust the drain

Use needle-nose pliers to raise the shower drain by unscrewing it until it’s the same height as the floor tile.

Note: You have to do this before the mortar sets.

Allow to dry

Allow the mortar to dry overnight, then apply thin set and tile.

The post How To Build a Shower Pan appeared first on Family Handyman.

What Is Tile Grout?

What is grout? Basically, it’s the stuff that fills the gaps between the tiles. There are cement and non-cement (epoxy and other materials) versions of it. Grout is not what holds the tiles to the surface, but it does help strengthen the tiles and add to the visual appeal.

It’s also there to help keep the surface clean by preventing dirt and grime from getting wedged in the gaps that would otherwise be there between the tiles without it. Of course, keeping grout clean poses its own set of challenges.

Frequent exposure to hard water, soap and hair care products can quickly turn clean bathroom tile grout into a dingy mess. The good news is that, in most cases, dingy grout can be effectively cleaned with a mixture of common household cleaners.

How Often Should You Clean Tile Grout?

That depends on where the grout is located. For a tiled shower where there’s regular use and constant moisture, the grout will need to be cleaned more often than a tiled wall. It’s best to clean grout as soon as it starts to look dirty, discolored or whenever mold and mildew start are starting to build up.

How to Clean Grout

The recommended cleaning method depends on how dirty your grout is to begin with. Some solutions will be more suitable for regular grout cleaning and maintenance, while others are made to really get after the gunk on especially grimy grout. Here are four methods for cleaning grout using common household cleaning supplies that you probably already have under your sink.

Maintain Grout with Warm Water and a Stiff Brush

If the grout between your tiles appears to be in good shape and you want to keep it that way, clean it regularly with warm water and a stiff brush. Fill a spray bottle with warm water, then spray and scrub along the grout lines. Avoid brushes with metal bristles since those could strip away any sealant, damage the grout and scratch the tile.

Create a Water and Vinegar Mixture

If plain water no longer keeps your grout clean, then it’s time to add vinegar. Start by filling half of a spray bottle with warm water and the other half with white vinegar. Regular distilled white vinegar will work fine, but go with cleaning vinegar if you have it on hand. Spray the mixture along the grout lines and wait for at least five minutes before starting to scrub, once again using a brush with stiff (but not metal) bristles.

Clean Tile Grout With Baking Soda

As anyone familiar with creating their own household cleaning products can tell you, baking soda is not just for baking. It can be used to deodorize shoes, clean upholstery and yes, scrub dirty grout. Make a paste of baking soda and water and spread it across the grout lines. Once the paste has been applied, spray some of that half-vinegar and half-water solution on top of the paste. This will cause it to foam. Once the foaming subsides, scrub the grout with a non-metal brush and rinse.

Add Hydrogen Peroxide

If you’ve tried water, vinegar and baking soda and you still have dingy grout, don’t worry. There’s one more ingredient in your grout-cleaning repertoire: Hydrogen peroxide. Apply it directly to your grout, brush and rinse away. Or substitute it for the water when making the baking soda paste above.

Stronger Grout Cleaners

If you’ve tried all these solutions and still find yourself with unsightly grout, it’s time to move to the next level of cleaning products. Heavy-duty options include chlorine bleach; oxygen bleach; and handy bleach pens that make it easy to apply the bleach right on the grout lines. If you decide to use a bleach-based solution or something similar, be sure that you handle any toxic chemicals with care and ventilate your workspace the best you can.

The post How to Clean Tile Grout With Household Cleaning Products appeared first on Family Handyman.

Home centers carry high-quality grout, but they don’t make choosing it easy. Luckily, Dean Sorem, our tile expert, has tried all the options and offers clear recommendations based on decades of experience. Here’s what you’ll find at home centers and flooring suppliers:

Ready-to-use grout

All the formulas in this category let you skip the messy mixing process, and some offer excellent durability and stain resistance. But they can be tricky to use. Some harden very fast; you need to work quickly so they don’t harden on the tile before you can wipe them off. And Dean has found that they can stain porcelain tile that has a matte finish.

Standard cement grout

Like concrete or mortar, these grouts begin as a powdery mix that contains Portland cement. Then, when mixed with water, they gradually harden. While some of these products are superior to others, none of them is a bad choice. But you can find much better options that cost just a few bucks more. Check out these tips on removing grout.

Best grout choice: Top-quality cement grout

The three products shown here are superior formulations of traditional cement grout. Dean considers them the best choice for DIY projects and for most of his own jobs. Here’s what makes them stand out:

• The particles, or “aggregate,” in the powder are much smaller. That makes the grout less porous and more stain resistant. Dean has tried to stain these products and found that every stain—even red wine—disappeared with a little detergent and light scrubbing.
• There’s no need to seal the grout. Stain resistance is essentially built in.
• Unlike standard cement grout, there aren’t “sanded” and “unsanded” versions. The same product can be used on walls and floors, with narrow and wide grout joints.
• This type of grout achieves better color consistency, with very little blotchiness, even with dark-colored grouts.

Dean has one warning about these grouts: They harden fast—not as quick as epoxy or some of the premixed products, but faster than standard grout. To avoid hardened residue on the tile, mix up smaller batches, have your sponges and water buckets ready to go and don’t delay the wipe-off phase of the job. Learn our best grouting tips.

Grout cost? Who cares!

The best grout might cost you twice as much as the cheapest option. But after spending all that time, energy and money installing the tile, do you really want to risk the whole project just to save 20 bucks?

What about Epoxy?

You may have heard that epoxy is the best grout available—incredibly durable and stain resistant. That’s probably true, but Dean doesn’t think DIYers should even consider epoxy. It’s difficult to use and hardens fast, and any residue that hardens on the face of tile is a nightmare to remove. With other great options available, epoxy just doesn’t make sense.

Meet the Expert

Dean Sorem has been installing tile and teaching others how to get the best results for more than 40 years.

How to Repair Grout That’s Cracking

The post Choose the Best Grout appeared first on Family Handyman.

What to look for in a roofing contractor

A new roof is not a cheap investment and shopping for a new one can be intimidating. The roof is the single most important element of your home for protecting you from the elements. When you’re putting the security of your roof in the hands of contractors, there are a few steps you should follow to ensure you’re making the right choice.

Make A List And Narrow It Down

Don’t choose the first contractor online that gives you what you think is a decent quote. Make a list of up to ten contractors in your area that you would like to investigate further.  From there, narrow down your list based on obvious criteria. Contractors that you can cross off are those who are not insured or licensed, have a bad rating with the Better Business Bureau, have a slew of negative customer reviews online, and are those who are willing to give you a quote over the phone without inspecting your home first.

Pick Your Top Three Contractors

Once you’ve narrowed your list a bit, there are a few more criteria you can use to narrow it down to your top three. Ask your prospective contractor how long they’ve been in business, if they are willing to give you a dedicated onsite point of contact for your project, and what references they can provide.

Schedule A Quote Call For Your Top Three

Ask your top three roofing candidates to come perform an estimate on the roof work that needs to be done. Accompany them as they move about your home. A good roofer will check both the exterior and interior of your roof if there is attic access, this includes the gutters. Once they’re finished, you’ll have a better idea of which roofer you prefer.

Get A Quote In Writing

Each of your prospective contractors should provide you with a quote in writing, and do it promptly. If you have to wait for longer than a week for your quote, then that contractor isn’t prepared to handle your business efficiently. Those who hand you a detailed, well written quote promptly are those that are ready to handle your business.

Detail Post Work Cleanup

Your contractor should include post construction clean up in their written contract. If it’s not listed, get it listed with detail before you sign on the dotted line. By getting it in writing you’ll ensure you’re not left with a giant mess in your hands once the work is done. This cleanup should include material removal, especially if the job entails a complete roof replacement.

By following the above steps and taking any other measures you need to before the roofing work begins, you’ll ensure the process is as smooth and painless as it can be. Hiring a reliable contractor with a long history and outstanding references will give you the peace of mind you need to know you’re having quality work performed.

Richard Frazier works with Arlington Roofing Contractors, located in Arlington, TX.

The post Five Things You Should Know Before Hiring A Roofing Contractor appeared first on Family Handyman.

Scraping out moldy caulk from around a bathtub is a tough, tedious job. And if you get too aggressive, you’ll chip a tile or mar the tub finish. Make the job a lot easier by first softening the caulk with a caulk remover (inexpensive at hardware stores).

Apply the remover

Spread a wide bead of caulk remover along the caulk line, covering it completely. Application is simple. Just squeeze the remover onto the caulk, making sure it covers the edges. Let it sit for several hours (or as directed on the package).. Click here for our favorite caulk remover from Amazon!

Scrape out the caulk

Then start scraping out the old caulk. The caulk remover works by destroying the bond between the caulk and the tub or tile, so that instead of chipping at the caulk with a razor blade, you just pull away big chunks of it with a putty knife. Most removers work on both silicone and acrylic latex caulks.

Clean off the residue with soap and water, let dry and then recaulk. Next, check out our 15 favorite caulking tips.

The post How to Remove Caulk From the Tub appeared first on Family Handyman.

Tile Removal: Start with a chisel and hand maul

There’s no easy way on how to remove tile. Unlike tile on cement board or wood, there’s no underlayment or subfloor that can be pried up and thrown away. How to remove tile from concrete requires knocking out the tiles and adhesive. How to remove tile takes time and hard work. Even a small bathroom will take half a day, at a minimum.

Chisel up tiles

Work the chisel between the tiles and the concrete, hammering them up with a 2-lb. maul.  Use a 3/4- or 1-in. masonry chisel and a 2-lb. hand maul. Start at a broken tile or between tiles where the grout has loosened. Work the chisel under the tiles, forcing them loose. Strike the face of stubborn tiles to break them up for easier removal. Wear safety glasses, gloves, pants and a long-sleeve shirt, since hammering the tile sends sharp shards flying. Also wear a dust mask.

Typically, older floors with mastic adhesive will come up easier than floors laid with thinset mortar. Rent a small jackhammer with a chisel point if the tile refuses to come loose. For larger rooms, consider renting an electric tile stripper or using other concrete demolition tools.

Smooth the old concrete

After all the tile is broken up, spread thin-set mortar over the concrete to level and smooth it before laying the new floor.

Chisel and scrape the adhesive off

After you remove the tiles, chisel and scrape the adhesive off the concrete as well. If you can’t get it all, don’t worry. You can leave bits of adhesive up to 1/8 in. thick. Then use the flat side of a 12-in. trowel to apply a 1/8-in. layer of latex thin-set mortar over the floor. This is to fill in voids and level around remaining bits of adhesive. If you’re installing new tile, use the same latex thin-set to set the tile. Thin-set holds ceramic tiles better than mastic and is easier to work with.

Keep in mind that the easiest solution of all is to leave the old tile in place and install new tile directly over the old. The new floor will be slightly higher, so you’ll have to trim the door and extend the toilet ring. For more details, talk with an expert at a local tile store.

The post How to Remove Tile From a Concrete Floor appeared first on Family Handyman.

The hardest part of a tile backsplash project may be choosing the look.

• The tiles come in various shapes and materials, and many sheets have glass or metallic tiles built in for accents.
• Most common are 12 x 12-in. sheets, but other sizes are available.
  • 4 x 12-in. strips are common for borders and accents.
• Don’t pick an overly intricate pattern, cautions tile supplier Drew Mansur. “They can be tricky to align and require more precise cuts — which won’t really be feasible until you have some experience under your belt.”

Evaluate and Prep the Wall

Like many projects, proper prep work is essential to a quality finished product. While hanging backsplash mosaic tile directly onto drywall is acceptable, you will need to clean and patch the wall to provide adequate adhesion.

• Take a moment to evaluate the wall surface, looking for damage and evenness. Jenya Teplitskaya, Senior Branch Manager of AAA Distributor’s Dallas, advises a two-step process:
  • Inspect for damage, such as cracks, holes, water damage, or any other imperfection that could affect the adhesion of the mosaic tiles.
  • Use a straightedge to identify high or low spots. Uneven surfaces will make it difficult to achieve a smooth finish.
• Clean the wall.
  • If the wall has been exposed to cooking or other oils, use a degreaser to eliminate any residue.
    • Thinset won’t adhere to grease, points out Teplitskaya, so a clean surface is essential.
  • Break up any grease stains with a sponge dipped in a mixture of water and mild dishwashing liquid (such as Dawn).
• Patch the wall as needed.
  • Fill in holes or cracks with patching spackle.
  • If your straightedge revealed uneven sections, professional tile setter Mikey Presnell says a rapid set thin-set can be floated over the wall surface to level things out.
  • Teplitskaya also recommends lightly sanding the entire surface. “Create a slightly rough texture,” she advises, “which will help the adhesive bond better.”
• Mask off the countertops and any upper cabinets that will have tile installed along the side.
  • This way, you won’t have the tape caught beneath the tile after the installation.
  • Don’t tap all the way up to the wall. Leave a 1/4-in. gap from the wall to account for the tile.
  • Cover the countertops with a drop cloth or cardboard.

Setup your Cutting Area

Cutting tile and mixing thin-set is messy. Presnell recommends taking a little time to prevent the accidental creation of a bigger mess than needed.

• A garage is ideal for your wet saw setup.
  • Ideally, it will have power and water access.
  • Outdoor workstations also work very well.
• Lay down a tarp or other protection for the floor around the cutting and mixing areas.

What To Do With Outlets

You’ll almost certainly have an outlet on your backsplash. For first-time tile setters, outlets can seem intimidating. Luckily, they’re not difficult to deal with, as long as you think ahead.

• Turn off power to the outlets in the wall and remove the cover plates.
• • Make sure the power is off by using a voltage detector.
• Place outlet extenders in the outlet boxes.
• • The National Electrical Code (NEC) requires extenders when the boxes are more than 1/4-inch behind the wall surface.
  • Set the extenders in place as a guide for placing the tile. You’ll remove them later for grouting.
    • Putting in extenders now and cutting tile to fit around them is much easier than adding them later.

Draw a Center Line

The area between the range and the vent hood is usually the largest space on the wall—and certainly the most seen by the cooks in the house—so it’s a great spot to use as your center point.

• Mark a centerline between the upper cabinets so the tiles will be centered under the vent hood.
  • It doesn’t need to be perfectly centered, but it does need to be visually straight. Use a straightedge or plumb bob, and take your time.

• Measure from the centerline to the cabinets.
• • If you’re like me, you may find it helpful to lay out the mesh squares of tile to see what the finished product will look like.
  • If you’ll have to cut tile to fit, move the centerline slightly so you’ll only have to cut the mesh backing (at least on one side).

Spread Adhesive

There are a number of different adhesives you might use for this project. The most common are mastic and thin-set mortar. Which one is right for your job depends on the type of tile, how it will be used, and the backing material. For most DIY backsplashes going right over drywall, a high-quality mastic is the best choice. (To keep things simple, we’ll be saying “mastic” in this article.)

That said, it’s important to take time to read the manufacturer’s instructions. “Using the wrong adhesive can be devastating,” says Presnell. “Stay within specifications.”

• Using a trowel, scoop some mastic adhesive out of the tub and put it on the wall.
• • The mastic or thin-set will indicate what type of trowel to use.
• Spread the mastic along the centerline, cutting in along the ledger board and upper cabinets.
• Use broad strokes to fill in the middle.
• • Hold the trowel at a 45-degree angle to the wall to spread the mastic thin—you should be able to see the layout lines where the points of the trowel touch the wall.
• Have a water bucket and sponge on hand to keep the trowel clean. Whenever the mastic starts to harden on the trowel, wipe it off with the wet sponge.
• Place plastic tile spacers on the countertop. This will leave a gap so the tiles don’t sit directly on the countertop. (You’ll caulk the gap later.)

Here’s how to test if the mastic is too thick:

• Align the first tile sheet with the centerline directly over the spacers.
• Press it onto the wall with your hand. If the sheet slides around and mastic comes through the joint lines, you’re applying the mastic too thick.
  • In that case, remove the sheet, scrape off some mastic and start over.
• Scrape away any mastic that squeezes into the joints. A utility knife works great for this.

Set the Tile

• Establish a 1/16-in. joint between sheets of tile.
  • You don’t need spacers for this, but don’t hesitate to use them if it’s helpful.
• For every two or three installed tile sheets, tap them into the mastic with a board and rubber mallet.
  • If individual tiles fall off the sheets, dab a little mastic on the back and stick them right back in place.
• The sheets aren’t perfectly square, so you may need to move individual tiles to keep joints lined up. Move the tiles with your fingers or by sticking a utility knife blade in the joint and turning the blade.
• If an entire sheet is crooked, place a grout float over the tile and move the sheet. You’ll have about 20 minutes after installing the tile to fine-tune it.
• Clean your tools and the tile as you go.
  • “Try to wipe away excess thin-set or grout with a damp sponge before it dries,” says Mansur, “because when it dries, it’ll be a pain to get off. “

Saw Tiles for Exact Fits

If you’re lucky, the tile sheets will fit against the upper cabinets and around outlets by simply cutting the mesh backing with a utility knife. But chances are that sooner or later, you’ll have to cut the tile with a wet saw. A wet saw may seem like overkill, but it’s typically the best tool to use here, as nippers and grinders can cause the slate tiles to shatter or crumble.

• Slice the backing to the nearest full row of tile, install the sheet around the outlet or next to the cabinet, then cut tiles with a wet saw to fill the gaps.
• Cut the tiles while they’re attached to the sheet. Individual tiles are too small to cut safely.
• If you installed porous tile (such as stone) let it sit for at least 30 minutes, then apply a grout sealer.
  • The sealer keeps the grout from sticking to the tile (it’s unnecessary for nonporous ceramic tiles).
  • Pour the sealer on a sponge, then wipe on just enough to dampen the tiles.

Apply the Grout

Wait 24 hours after installing the tile to add the grout. We used premium grout that has a consistent color and resists stains better than standard grout.

Because backsplashes are subjected to splatters from cooking, we recommend spending the extra money for a premium grout.

• Mix the grout with water until it reaches mashed potato consistency, then put some on the wall with a grout float. Work the grout into the joints by moving the float diagonally over the tiles.
  • Hold the grout float at a 45-degree angle to the tile.
  • Teplitskaya emphasizes proper technique here. “Applying too much or too little grout, or not properly packing it into the joints, can lead to gaps, cracks, or uneven grout lines.”
• Scrape off excess grout with the float after the joints are filled.
• Ten minutes after grouting, wipe the grout off the surface of the tiles with a damp sponge.
• If the grout begins to pull out of the joints, give it another 10 minutes or so to harden further.
  • Don’t let it harden completely! The goal is for it to be soft enough to tool smoothly but hard enough to stay in place.
• Continually rinse the sponge in a bucket of water and wipe the tiles until they’re clean.

Scrape Out the Corners and Joints

• After cleaning the wall, use a utility knife to rake the grout out of the joints along the bottom of the backsplash and in the inside corners. These expansion joints allow the wall to move without cracking the grout.
  • You’ll fill these in with caulk at the end of the job.
  • Keep the dull side of the blade along the countertop.
• Two hours after grouting, wipe the haze off the tiles with microfiber cloths.
• Caulk the expansion joints with latex caulk. I like to use sanded caulk that closely matches the grout in color and texture.
• Refer to the grout’s instructions to see when it can be sealed.
  • This step is easy to overlook, but it will protect both your grout and the tiles themselves from stains and moisture.
  • Mansur recommends a high-quality penetrating sealer applied evenly with a brush or roller.
  • Allow it to soak in for a few minutes before wiping off the excess.

Avoid Common Mistakes

Tiling a mosaic backsplash is a DIY-friendly project, but there are a few areas that frequently cause headaches for those new to tile-setting. We asked our experts to share tips on what to watch out for when getting ready to start a backsplash of your own.

Inadequate Preparation

Jenya Teplitskaya cites inadequate surface preparation as a common tripping point for beginners. “Failing to properly clean, level, and repair the wall can lead to tiles not adhering well or becoming uneven,” she says.

Similarly, Mikey Presnell emphasizes getting enough material to get the job done. “Have 10% more product than you need. There is nothing worse than running out and such a small installation.” Remember that you can usually return unused tiles.

Using the Wrong Materials

“Using the correct trowel is very crucial,” says Presnell. “If the notch on the trowel is too deep, it will be a nightmare of adhesive squeezing through the tile.” Always check the adhesive to see what trowel is recommended.

Speaking of adhesive, make sure the adhesive you’re using matches the job. As Teplitskaya points out, “Using the wrong type of adhesive, such as standard mastic in a wet area instead of a water-resistant thin-set mortar, can cause tiles to loosen or fall off.”

Too Much Adhesive

Both Teplitskaya and Presnell cited this as a common mistake. Spreading adhesive over a large area may seem like a time saver, but you’ll likely see it drying up before you can set all the tile. In the end, you’ll have to scrape off the adhesive and troweling on a new layer.

About the Experts

• Drew Mansur is the co-founder and head of growth at TileCloud – Australia’s leading online tile store. He graduated with a degree in construction management which led him into the construction industry. From there, he co-founded a commercial tiling business which ultimately led to the start of TileCloud.
• Mikey Presnell is a Certified Tile Expert at Earth Saving Solutions, a full-service, fully licensed, and insured general contractor for both residential homes and commercial buildings in the Colorado Front Range region. Mikey has helped guide ESS tile projects to successful completion for over ten years.
• Jenya Teplitskaya is Senior Branch Manager of AAA Distributor’s Dallas showroom. AAA Distributor is the among the largest distributors of kitchen, bathroom, and flooring products.

The post How to Tile a Backsplash appeared first on Family Handyman.

Stone, porcelain and glass tiles offer beautiful options for bath and kitchen tiling projects. However, cutting these hard materials presents a unique challenge. Straight cuts are easy to make with a diamond wet saw. But cutting curves and holes requires special techniques. I was tiling a shower on a recent bathroom project and I needed to cut an opening for the shower valve hardware. An inexpensive angle grinder with a diamond blade can cut perfect circles and squares in the toughest tile.

You can buy a 4- or 4-1/2-in. grinder and a dry-cut diamond blade for as little as $75. In general, more expensive blades will last longer. When choosing a diamond blade, look for one with a continuous, rather than segmented rim for the smoothest cut. Be aware, though, that cutting with a dry-cut diamond blade creates a lot of dust and noise. So make sure you cut in a well-ventilated area (or better yet, outside!) and wear hearing protection, a good-quality two-strap dust mask and safety glasses.

The method I used for cutting a circle with a grinder requires you to cut around the circle a number of times, making a deeper cut with each revolution. The key is to maintain the same angle and shave off progressive layers, moving the cut closer to the center of the circle.

Mark tile for cutting

With a pencil, mark the tile where you will be cutting out the circle by using the plastic shower faucet valve cover as a template. Trace template on both sides and use a speed square or tape measure to make sure the template location matches perfectly with the front side.

Gradually cut face of tile

Carefully score the tile by tracing the marked template with the grinder. When using the grinder, apply light pressure and let the blade do the work. Cut about halfway through the tile then stop.

Cut back of tile

Flip the tile over and begin scoring the tile with the grinder as you follow the marked template. Continue cutting the tile until the hole is complete.

Dry fit

Before installing the tile, make sure it fits perfectly. It is a mess trying to remove thin set off of tile if you need to make adjustments.

FAQ

Can you cut tile with a dry blade?

Yes, you can cut tiles with a dry blade such as a diamond blade because it’s designed to cut materials without water. Wear protective safety glasses, gloves, and a dust mask to protect yourself from flying debris and inhaling dust particles.

How do you cut ceramic tile without chipping it?

By applying masking tape along the cutting line, you can reduce the chances of the tile surface chipping during cutting.

Can you use a grinder on porcelain tile?

Porcelain tile is a hard material but can be cut with an angle grinder that has a diamond blade on it.

The post How To Cut Tile With a Grinder appeared first on Family Handyman.

The post How to Cut a Large Hole in Tile appeared first on Family Handyman.

How to Fix a Wobbly Ceiling Fan

While a slight wobble on your bedroom ceiling fan is normal, a fan that really wobbles is not only annoying but can be dangerous. Learn how to check the fan box, the blade and the blade irons.

Photo: Dmitri Ma/Shutterstock

How to Fix a Running Toilet

There is a four-step strategy for fixing a running toilet. The fix will not only give your toilet a stronger flush, it can lower your water bill.

Photo: Lolostock/Shutterstock

How to Fix Squeaky Floors

Silence those squeaky floors. This quick fix for silencing floor squeaks will take you just a day. Bonus: You don’t need any special tools.

Photo: g-stockstudio/Shutterstock

How to Fix a Crack in Drywall

It doesn’t matter if your son’s basketball got away from him or you nicked the wall moving a piece of furniture. At some point you’ll be faced with a crack in the drywall. You’ll need taping and utility knives, along with some drywall tape, pre-mixed joint compound and setting type compound to fix the crack so it doesn’t come back.

How to Fix a Leaky Faucet

You can fix that annoying, leaky faucet in about an hour. Even if you’re a plumbing novice, you can handle this DIY repair.

Photo: SpeedKingz/Shutterstock

How to Fix Cracked Grout

Even the best tile jobs will succumb to cracking grout at some point. If the grout between your bathroom floor tiles is crumbling, there is a quick fix that will save you from tearing up the floor and starting over.

How to Fix an Unbalanced Washing Machine

You threw a heavy load of towels in the washer and now it’s unbalanced. With a level, pliers and a pry bar, you can have the washer balanced again in five minutes.

Photo: Dragon Images/Shutterstock

How to Fix a Clogged Drain

Clogged drains usually happen at the most inopportune times. Keep a plunger and drain snake on hand to clear up most drain problems in less than an hour.

Photo: Andrey_Popov/Shutterstock

How to Fix Common Refrigerator Problems

Maybe your refrigerator isn’t cooling as well as it should, or perhaps the ice maker suddenly stops working. Many refrigerator issues are simple DIY fixes.

Photo: Andrey_Popov/Shutterstock

How to Fix Gutters

Wind, heavy rain, ice and debris buildup can all cause your gutters to sag or leak. If you can work a cordless drill, you can fix your gutters and save some money. Review these ladder safety tips before taking on this project.

Photo: SpeedKingz/Shutterstock

How to Fix a Water Heater Pilot Light

There could be a few reasons the pilot light on your water heater goes out. A common cause is a bad thermocouple, which shuts off the gas to the pilot light.

How to Fix Leather and Vinyl

If you have a vinyl sofa, or leather seats in your car, you can fix those tears before they get bigger. You’ll need an inexpensive repair kit and a little patience, but the tear will be fixed in just a few minutes.

The post 12 Easy Things Everyone Should Know How to Fix appeared first on Family Handyman.

Grout is the material that fills in the gaps between tiles. It’s most commonly white, though it can be other colors depending on the scheme you want to go for. You can even custom-mix your own grout colors if you can’t find the one you want to perfectly match your vision.

Like any part of the home, grout can get dirty. That once white material will look dull and take on other, undesirable colors. If it’s in the kitchen, this can be partly caused by the grease from cooking. If it’s the bathroom, the culprit can often be soap scum and other grime.

No matter the cause, the grout will need cleaning. But sometimes, the dirt is really packed in.

When cleaning isn’t enough, the usual cure is grinding it out and regrouting. But here’s an easier approach: DAP Kwik Seal Grout Recolor Kit, available at home centers or online. It lets you whiten grimy grout by putting a fresh coating over it in a few hours.

It’s a four-step process. First, you clean and prep the grout with DAP Pre-Treat. Next, apply the Color+Seal coating. Remove the excess, then buff off the haze. The kit contains everything you need and covers about 100 sq. ft. of 4-in. tile. Smaller tile will have more grout lines and require more material.

Pretreat the grout

Sponge on the pretreat solution and let it sit for five minutes. Then scrub the grout with the supplied brush. Afterwards, wipe it clean with the chamois.

Apply colorant

Squirt a thin bead of colorant on the grout lines in a 2-sq.-ft. section. Then scrub the colorant with the grout brush included in the kit.

Remove excess colorant

Wipe the excess colorant from the tile using the chamois. Wipe only the tile, not the grout lines. You don’t want to undo your hard work. Then let it dry for 30 minutes.

Buff to remove haze

Apply a light mist of glass cleaner, then buff the tile with a clean rag or chamois. Let it dry for a full 24 hours before exposing it to water.

Congratulations! You’ve successfully learned how to whiten your grout!

The post How to Whiten Grimy Grout appeared first on Family Handyman.

Plan the project and assemble tools and materials

By itself, the tile in a shower enclosure is almost maintenance-free. With an occasional wipe-down, it can look good for years. Grout, however, is a different story—eventually, it’s going to break down. Large cracks and crumbly chunks are alarming, but smaller fractures can be trouble too. Fractures, and stains that won’t wash out, may indicate spots where water is wicking in and working its way behind the tiles. Sooner or later, that water will weaken the adhesive that’s holding the tile or cause rot in the walls. When that happens, the only solution is to tear out the tile and start from scratch.

The good news is that if you catch it in time, you can quickly and easily give tiled surfaces a new lease on life—and a fresh look—by applying a new layer of grout. In this article, we’ll walk you through the regrouting process from start to finish, and offer some tools and tips to prevent mid-job mishaps. It will help to have a basic understanding of tile work, but you don’t need much previous tile experience; regrouting is mostly grunt work.

The materials needed for an average-size shower are inexpensive. In some cases, you can finish the job in a few hours, but to be safe, give yourself a weekend. If you start on Saturday morning, you should be able to take a shower on Monday.

Choosing the right tools and grout

Before you begin digging into that old grout, make sure you have all the tools and materials you’ll need to finish the job. To help make sense of what you’ll need, think of this project in three parts: scraping and cleaning, regrouting and cleanup.

When you’re choosing grout-removal tools, stick with steel to be safe. Many special grout scrapers equipped with carbide tips work well and stay sharp for a long time, but if you slip, the carbide can damage your tile or tub. Steel utility knife blades, on the other hand, may dull quickly, but they’re less likely to scratch the tile. Buy a knife with easy-to-change blades, and also buy plenty of spare blades (buy a 100-blade pack). They’re ideal for cleaning out narrow joints. A grout saw with a notched steel blade is also handy for snagging chunks of grout.

As for grout, buy a 10-lb. Bag—you may have some left over, but that’s better than running out. Grout comes in two forms: unsanded and sanded. Your choice depends on the width of the gaps between the tiles. For joints up to 1/8 in., choose the unsanded variety. For wider joints, choose sanded to avoid cracking. Whatever type you need, look for a “polymer-modified” mix. The extra ingredients help prevent future cracking and staining. It’s almost impossible to match new grout to old, but don’t worry. By scratching out the topmost layer from all the grout lines and adding new, you’ll get a fresh, consistent color.

Tip: When you’re shopping for grout, stick with brands that offer color-matching caulks. Factory-matched caulk/ grout combinations blend almost perfectly.

To apply the grout, buy a rubber-soled grout float and a grout sponge (both from home centers). In case the grout starts hardening too quickly, you’ll also want to buy a plastic scouring pad (see Editor’s Note, below). Last, buy a tube of tub-and-tile caulk that matches the grout color.

Slice out caulk and scratch out grout

Before you begin your attack, take a minute to protect your tub against scratches and debris that can clog your drain. Tape a layer of plastic sheeting to your tub’s top edge. Next, lay a drop cloth on top of the plastic to protect the tub and cushion your knees. Then, remove the faucet hardware or protect it with masking tape.

Getting rid of the old caulk and grout requires plenty of elbow grease, but it’s not difficult work, especially if you take your time. Begin by cutting out the old caulk and then move on to the grout. When you’re using a utility knife, switch blades as soon as the edge stops digging and starts skating on the grout. At times, you may have more success with the grout saw. Whatever tool you choose, the goal remains the same: to remove about 1/8 in. from the top (or more, if the grout comes out easily).

When you’re done, remove dust and debris, which can weaken the bond between the tile and the new grout.

Mix the grout and pack the joints

Once the grout is mixed, the clock starts ticking toward the moment when it will harden on the wall…or in the bucket. Pro tilers can mix and use a 10-lb. bag of grout before it hardens, but to play it safe, mix up a few cups at a time and work in sections. A smaller batch will allow you plenty of time to apply it and clean the excess from one wall at a time. When you run out, rinse the container before mixing a new batch.

Before you make a batch from a bag, shake the bag to redistribute any pigment and Portland cement that might have settled out in shipment. After it’s been dry mixed, scoop out a few cups (one cup equals about a half pound) into a bucket. The instructions on the bag indicate how much water to add per pound of mix. To ensure a strong mix, start with about three-quarters of the specified amount of water and gradually pour in just enough to make the grout spreadable.

Aim for a fairly stiff consistency, somewhere between cake icing and peanut butter. Don’t worry if the grout looks a little lumpy. After it’s mixed, allow it to sit, or slake, for 10 minutes. During this time, the remaining dry specks will absorb moisture. Give the grout one last stir (stirring again also keeps the mix from hardening in your bucket), and it’s ready for application.

Focus on one wall at a time. Scoop out a dollop and press it out across the tiles at a 45-degree angle. It’s OK to be messy. The goal is to pack as much grout into the joints as you can. Press hard and work the float in several directions.

Scrape off grout and sponge-clean the surface

Immediately after you fill the joints, rake off the excess grout. Hold the float on edge, like a snowplow, and cut off most of the excess. Move the float across the joints diagonally to prevent the edge from dipping into the joints and pulling out too much grout. Work quickly before the grout starts to harden. The time between scraping and sponging varies from job to job.

Depending on your mix, the humidity or the temperature, the grout may take anywhere from five to 20 minutes to firm up. Begin sponging as soon as the grout feels firm and no longer sticks to your finger.

Using a well-wrung tile sponge, wipe away the bulk of the unwanted grout with short, gentle, circular strokes. Turn the sponge so that you’re using a clean edge with each pass. Rinse and wring it out in the “dirty” bucket, then dip the sponge in a “clean” bucket, and finally wring it out again in the “dirty” bucket. This two-bucket technique helps keep your sponge and rinse water clean so that you can remove grout more effectively. Wring out as much water as possible. Too much water can pull cement and pigment from your fresh grout lines.

In addition to wiping away the excess, the sponge works for fine-tuning the shape of your grout lines. To shave down any high spots and make the lines slightly convex, run the sponge across the joint until the grout lines appear uniform. (If you find a low spot, use your finger to rub in a little extra grout.)

Editor’s Note: Scrub Pad Insurance

The biggest mistake you’re likely to make is waiting too long before sponging the excess grout off the tile. I’ve discovered that it only takes a few minutes before a shower stall can start looking like a sidewalk.

A plastic scrub pad is a cheap insurance policy. The coarse pad quickly and easily scours off hardened grout that would shrug off a sponge, but it won’t scratch the tile. (In addition to emergencies, I like using it to tweak the shape of my grout lines.)

Of course, buying one may guarantee that you won’t need it. On the other hand, should you need one, you won’t be able to drive to the hardware store fast enough.

Scrape and buff

Scrape out any globs of grout that may have gotten into the joints you intend to caulk. This includes all corners and the tub/tile joint. You could do this chore later, but it’s a lot easier now, before the grout is rock hard.

The sponge-wiped walls may look clean at first, but as the surface moisture evaporates, the remaining grout particles will create a light haze. Give the grout an hour or two to dry, then buff off any residual haze with a soft towel.

Finish up with neat caulk joints

Apply painter’s tape to control your caulk lines. Apply the caulk, smooth the joint with your finger and immediately remove the tape.

Let the grout dry overnight before applying the caulk along the tub/tile joint and inside corners. For clean, precise caulk lines, run painter’s tape along the inside corner and at the tub/tile joint. Just remember to remove the tape as soon as you finish smoothing. If you wait too long, the caulk will skin over or stick to the tape, and you’ll pull out the caulk when you try to remove it. Depending on the caulk, your bath should be ready for an inaugural shower in 24 hours.

To reduce mold growth, seal grout lines for extra stain and water resistance. Give the grout a week or two to cure completely before sealing. Remember that sealers wear off in time, so you’ll need to reapply it every year or so. If you don’t want to apply a sealer, wiping your walls down with a squeegee after each use works almost as well.

The post How To Regrout a Shower appeared first on Family Handyman.

You can build this elegant outdoor table with simple tools and basic skills. Get your wood and steel at a home center, and look for interesting tile at a local tile supplier. Ask to see a porcelain or stone tile (or a combination) that’ll withstand harsh weather conditions. Our table, with two sizes of stone tile, cost about one-fifth the cost of a store-bought table.

This tabletop is made from a plywood core wrapped in cement board, sealed with a paint-on membrane and then covered with ceramic tile and grout. The leg base is made from sturdy steel bars (from your home center or hardware store) that you bend (with the aid of a template and homemade jig) into pleasing curves. Then you drill and assemble them and finally, screw them to the tabletop.

Don’t worry if you didn’t pay attention during metal shop. We’ll show you a seat-of-the-pants method for bending the steel without the expensive metal shop tools that a pro would use. Figure on spending 10 to 12 hours over the course of a week to complete the project.

To help guide the process, we’ve broken the tasks down into daily steps. It accounts for time spent waiting for glue, mortar and sealer to dry so you can finish the project efficiently. In total, this project will take about 6 days.

Build the Bending Jig

• Glue and screw two 2×4 blocks to a 16 x 36-in. sheet of 3/4-in. plywood.
• Screw the plywood to your workbench.
• Let the glue dry overnight before using the jig.

Cut Out the Plywood Base

• Mark two 13-in. radius (26-in. diameter) discs on 1/2-in. CDX plywood using a compass made from a strip of scrap wood.
• Cut out the discs with a jigsaw.

Glue the Plywood Discs

• Spread water-resistant carpenter’s glue onto each disc with a 1/8-in. notched trowel.
• Carefully align the edges of the discs and screw them together with 1-1/4 in. screws spaced every 6 in.
• Let the glue dry, remove the screws and sand the edges of the disc to form a smooth curve.

Bend the Legs Slightly at Each Mark

• Mark the 1/4-in. x 1-1/2 in. x 36-in. steel bar every inch with a permanent marker.
• Align the marks with the center marks on the 2×4 blocks and firmly pull the bar until you feel it bend slightly.
• Move the bar to the next inch mark and proceed with slight bends at each mark.

Check the Curve as You Go

• Check your bent bar with your template.
• Insert the bar into the jig again and either bend or unbend it as needed.
• Cut the steel to a 28-in. overall length with a hacksaw.
• Smooth the rough edges with a metal file.

Mark the Holes

• Clamp the curved legs to the workbench.
• Use a sharp punch to mark the hole centers for the mounting screws and the assembly bolts.
• Drill holes at 1/2 in., 1-1/2 in., 4 in. and 14 in. from the top end.

Drill the Screw and Bolt Holes

• Drill the 3/16-in. diameter holes through the legs, using a few drops of oil to lubricate the bit.
  • Pro tip: Make sure to clamp the steel firmly while drilling.

Bend the Struts

• Cut the 8-in. long struts from 1/8-in. x 3/4-in. steel with a hacksaw.
• Place a mark 1-1/2 in. from each end.
• Align the marks with the vise jaws, tighten and then hammer the piece to form crisp 90-degree bends.
• Center and drill bolt holes according to the strut detail in Figure A.

Assemble the Legs and Struts

• Screw the struts to the legs using No. 10 x 3/4-in. bolts and nuts.
• Tighten with a screwdriver.
• Note the position of the mounting holes.

Cut the Cement Board Disc

• Place the disc on a piece of 1/2-in. cement board and trace the circle.
• Cut it out with a jigsaw fitted with an abrasive cutting blade.

Bond the Cement Board and Plywood

• Mix about 1-1/2 qts. of thin-set mortar to a toothpaste consistency.
• Let the mortar stand for 10 minutes, then spread it onto one side of your disc with a 1/4-in. notched trowel.
• Screw the cement board to the plywood with 1-1/4 in. cement board screws.

Attach Lath

• Cut 1-3/8 in. strips of galvanized expanded metal lath (stucco lath) 7 ft. long.
• Nail the strips to the edge of the disc.
• Use 1-1/4 in. galvanized roofing nails and space them every 4 in.

Cover the Lath with Mortar

• Set the disc on a plastic sheet and mix about 1 qt. of thin-set mortar.
• Embed the mortar in the lath.
• Let it dry overnight, then smooth off ridges and edges with a rasp.

Apply Waterproofing Membrane

• Roll or brush two coats of waterproofing membrane on both sides and the edges, then let it dry overnight.
• While the membrane is drying (24 hours), lay out your tile design and make sure it works.
• Make a cardboard disc the same size as your coated disc and draw concentric circular guidelines onto it to help with your tile placement.

Set the Edge Tile

• Butter the back of each tile with thin-set mortar
• Push it onto the edge of the table disc and shim the height if necessary.
• Work your way around the disc and cut or adjust the tile spacing to fit the last piece.
• Wait 24 hours before tiling the top.

Follow the Layout Lines

• Draw guidelines on your tabletop with a permanent marker and then trowel mortar onto only one quadrant of the top with a 1/4-in. notched trowel.
• Transfer your tile from your design to the mortared top, paying attention to your guidelines.
• Complete each quadrant, let the mortar set for 24 hours, then grout the top.

Grout and Assemble

• Center the leg assembly onto the underside of the table and screw through the outer mounting holes into the table bottom with No. 10 x 1-1/2 in. screws.
• Scribe and cut the pieces of 1-1/2 in. x 1-1/2 in. pine to fit between two legs.
• Fasten the pine to the table.
• Remove the wood braces to paint them.
• Wipe the steel with mineral spirits and scuff it with steel wool to prepare the surface.
• Prime the steel and then paint it.

The post Build This Outdoor Table with a Tile Top to Give Your Patio a Hip Cafe Look appeared first on Family Handyman.