Wrapped Corner Method

There are two good ways to handle corner flashing. The first — bending two pieces and caulking the joint — is the most common because you can do it immediately with the flashing at hand. If you bend crisp corners and nail carefully, you’ll only leave a tiny hole to caulk at the corner.

Remember to place the flashing under the weather barrier on the dormer. If you’re flashing a masonry chimney, nail the flashing to the roof as far up the flashing as possible. Cap flashing (counter flashing) inserted into mortar joints will cover the top edge.

Bend a flap down

Run the base flashing 4 to 5 in. beyond the dormer and cut the top section along the dormer edge. Bend the flap down and nail along the top edge.

Notch the step flashing

Notch the first step flashing, leaving a 1-in. flap to bend around the front of the dormer. Nail along its upper edge. Add shingles and additional step flashing.

Caulk

Squeeze a thin bead of caulk over the leftover gap and along the bottom joint.

Soldered Corner Method

The second, forming and soldering a custom piece to fit the corner, is the best because it doesn’t leave any potential leak spots (at the caulked gaps). Unfortunately, you can’t solder aluminum flashing, and soldering galvanized steel is difficult. You’ll have to measure your roof slope and have a sheet metal or gutter-making shop make one for you. You may have to nail the lower edge to the roof to hold it flat. If so, cover the nail head with a dab of silicone.

Lay soldered corner flashing around the corner and over the base flashing. Nail the flashing to the dormer near the top edge and continue with the shingles and step flashing.

The post DIY Roof Flashing Techniques for Outside Corners appeared first on Family Handyman.

Gable Roof

A child drawing a picture of a house is most likely to depict it with a gable roof. That’s partly because it’s easy to draw. and partly because it’s one of the most common roof designs.

It’s composed of two sloping flat panels that join at the peak, giving the roof an A-shaped cross-section known as the gable.

A gable roof is easy to build. The slope can be adjusted to maximize rain and snow runoff while preserving attic space. The lack of seams helps prevent leaks, but the design is vulnerable to high winds.

To protect the gable ends, builders may construct a variation known as a clipped gable, bullnose or jerkinhead roof. In this version, small hips — flat sections that slope downward — are added to the gable end peaks to deflect the wind.

Asphalt shingles are the most common roof covering. In windy locations, rolled or metal roofing or heavy tiles (clay or slate) may be a better choice.

Here are some roof problems that you should keep in mind for making the right choices.

Hip Roof

A simple hip roof consists of four sloping sections of equal length that meet at a common ridge for a square or rectangular appearance. A more complex version may have two sections shorter than the other two.

This design sheds snow and water as readily as a gable roof. It provides plenty of attic space and better handles high winds. It’s also more expensive. And because of the raised seams on the corners (the hips), it’s more likely to leak.

A hip roof is visible from the ground, so it has a significant impact on the home’s appearance. Any type of roof covering is suitable, but choose one that enhances the home’s appearance. Many people choose tiles, architectural shingles, cedar shingles or something similarly attractive. Metal is another good choice.

Dutch Gabled Roof

Build a hip roof, drop a gable roof on top of it, and you have a Dutch gabled roof. The gabled part, or gablet, rises from the hip section and extends the peak, creating two small gable ends perfect for windows. This is the ideal roof if you plan to convert your attic to a living area.

The design increases attic space and adds architectural interest. However, it’s considerably more difficult and expensive to build than a gable or a hip roof, and features more seams that could potentially leak.

Any type of roof covering works, though metal is best. If you use shingles and you get a lot of snow, be sure to add a waterproof underlayment. There are multiple places for snow to collect and melt on this roof, especially around the bases of the gablets.

Gambrel Roof

You’ll find this kind on a traditional barn, so it’s also commonly known as a barn roof. It’s similar to a gable roof, but with four panels joining at the peak instead of two. The two panels nearest the peak slope gently, while the two that drop to the eaves slope steeply. This design maximizes the usable loft or attic space.

The gambrel design dates to Dutch colonial times. These days, it’s used more often on barns and sheds than homes for two reasons. First, it’s even more vulnerable to wind than a gable roof. Second, the flat section near the peak can’t hold the weight of heavy snow.

Gambrel is another type of roof visible from the ground, especially the steep sections near the peak, so the roofing material must be chosen with an eye toward appearance. Asphalt, wood and slate shingles are some popular choices.

Mansard Roof

If you think “mansard” sounds French, you’re right! This classic type adorns The Louvre in Paris. It’s another hybrid of a hip roof, this time in combination with a gambrel roof.

Like all hips roofs, a mansard roof has four sides, but each has two slopes like a gambrel roof. The slope of the upper section is gentle while that of the lower section is almost vertical, maximizing usable attic space. In traditional French architecture, it’s common to build dormers with windows into the steep lower section.

Mansard roofs are architecturally impressive, but difficult and expensive to build. The flat section near the peak is vulnerable to rain and snow, and this type is one of the most likely to leak. You can use any roof covering, but slate tiles best complement the old-world aesthetic.

Shed Roof

You can’t get much simpler than a shed roof, aka a skillion roof. It consists of a single flat panel sloping to one side, usually the back of the building where water drains. The minimalist design suits rustic cabins. It’s also a common feature in avant-garde architecture.

A shed roof is the easiest to build because it has no hips or valleys and it’s virtually leak-proof. It isn’t a good choice for windy areas, though, because a strong gust can lift it off the building like a sail. It also does little to increase attic space. It’s common to install windows in the taller wall just under the roofline to provide more indoor light.

Because a shed roof slopes away from the front of the building, it isn’t that visible. So any roof covering that readily sheds water, like roll roofing, metal roofing and shingles, will work. In areas with heavy snow, a shed roof is usually built with a steep slope to better shed snow melt.

Butterfly Roof

Think of a butterfly sitting on a flower with its wings outstretched, and you have a pretty good picture of a butterfly roof.

It consists of two flat panels that slope toward a central valley, analogous to the butterfly’s torso. Water runs into the valley, sloped toward one side of the building, and drains in a single stream toward the ground. It’s an ideal construction for catching rainwater.

This type of roof can create separate attic spaces, one for a loving area and the other for storage. Its main advantage, though, is its appearance. Its distinctive, aerodynamic design also makes it good for windy areas.

Butterfly roofs are expensive to build, and the valley must be properly sealed. They don’t work well in snowy areas because snow can collect in the valley and turn to ice. You can use a wide range of roof coverings, including shakes, shingles, tiles, metal and even concrete.

Pyramid Roof

A specialized example of a hip roof, a pyramid roof consists of four triangular panels that meet at a single point. The design adds height to the attic space, but the steep slope of the panels cuts into the available space. The slope does, however, promote snow and water runoff.

Like a butterfly roof, a pyramid roof adds a distinctive touch to the building. It’s one of the most stable roof structures, because the pyramid design is self-supporting. Like all hip roofs, it can leak at the seams where the panels meet.

A pyramid roof is more difficult to build than a gable or shed roof, but easier than a hip or mansard roof. It’s visible from the ground, so choose a covering wisely. Shingles, tiles and shakes are some common choices.

Flat Roof

A flat roof isn’t really flat. It has a small slope of at least one-quarter inch per foot toward one side of the building for drainage. Most flat roofs are bounded by a curb or wall, and drainage holes on the downward slope side allow water to run off.

You find flat roofs more often on commercial buildings than homes, because the design is the most suitable one for a large roof area. Some home builders incorporate flat roofs to provide an area for sunning, gathering or growing plants. In some homes, only part of the roof is flat.

The best covering for a flat roof consists of a single membrane. It may be thermoplastic poleolyfin (TPO), ethylene propylene diene terpolymer (EPDM), PVC or spray polyurethane foam (SPF). When properly constructed, flat roofs can outlast most other types because they offer no wind resistance.

The post What Type of Roof Does Your Home Have? appeared first on Family Handyman.

After earning her business degree from Iowa State University in 1997, she left construction for corporate management. By 2012, burnt out on corporate America, she teamed up with her brother and his wife to found Feller Roofing and Remodeling. Four years later, Feller left to launch her own company, Feller Roofing of New Braunfels, Texas, now called Roofer Chicks.

Today, Feller wholly owns and manages her company, while her brother and sister-in-law have their own roofing business a few towns over. She also runs the YouTube channel @rooferchicks, dedicated to helping laypeople understand what’s up with their roofs.

We asked Feller for her thoughts on the state of the roofing industry.

Q: Why did you want to leave the corporate world?

A: I always thought working for corporations would be what I did because I had a business degree. But I hated corporate America. I hated the red tape and having to implement decisions that didn’t make any sense. I hated the long hours and being away from my daughter.

One day when we were in the shop with a broken down truck, I called my brother in tears, asking if this was all there was to life, working and working until you die? That’s when we started Feller Roofing.

Q: Are you happy you made the switch?

A: The most important thing is that I haven’t missed my daughter’s life. When she was four and I worked in corporate America, I was only seeing her awake for about 30 minutes a day. Now she’s 15, and I get to tailor my life around being there for her.

I have also really enjoyed being part of my community. I had lived in New Braunfels for almost 10 years, but really only knew my immediate neighbors. I didn’t even know my way around town. It was just a place to rest my head.

Now I’m a chamber and rotary member. I’m going to all the festivals, volunteering at the food bank and learning every street, as we do in roofing. I’m really proud to be involved in the community.

It’s also fun to be a female roofer because I’m unusual. I get to change people’s perceptions.

Q: Where do you find so many women roofers to work for you?

A: My W-2 employees are about 75% female, and while my 1099 shingle crews are run by a woman, they’re mostly male. I like having a mix. I hope to reflect the community with both gender and ethnicity.

Admittedly, it’s very hard to find female employees. Sometimes I have to talk them into it, and then their husband, boyfriend or dad might talk them out of it by telling them they can’t do it. It isn’t for everybody — even men. It’s hard, dirty work, which takes a special breed.

I found my initial women crew from a mom’s group on Facebook. Funny enough, some of the ads I post looking for women employees on Facebook get taken down for being sexist, which is crazy, because in roofing, 0.05% of laborers are female. It also takes patience, because it takes a long time to recruit six women for a crew.

Q: Any advice for women looking to get into roofing?

A: One nice thing about roofing is there aren’t really any barriers to entry. You don’t have to have a degree or do an apprenticeship. At least at my company, you don’t even need to have any experience. If you really want to try it, find the right company to go work for, which is important because not all roofers are nice.

And remember, you can work on a crew swinging a hammer as well as in sales. There’s money to be made, and women do really, really well at sales because homeowners trust them — especially women that spent some time on a crew and know what they’re talking about. It’s definitely an industry where paying your dues pays off.

Q: What changes have you seen in roofing over last decade?

A: The price per square has risen from $175 in 2012 to over $500, which is huge.

The technology of shingles has also gotten better. GAF [a leading shingles manufacturer] has come out with a 50-year shingle, up from 30 years. Now they have an unlimited 15-year wind warranty, which is amazing. They’ve also gotten algae resistance up from 10 years to 30, which is big in Texas.

Another trend I love is an increase in recycling efforts. They’re not super efficient yet, but they’re trying, and I know GAF is making a lot of efforts along that line.

It makes me sick to see roofs being dumped in the landfill. It’s such a waste. So I am passionate for the day when that actually stops happening. This year so far we’ve recycled almost 60,000 pounds of old shingles! It’s not a lot in the grand scheme of things, but it’s a start.

Q: How do you use social media for your business?

A: I’ve done a lot of how-tos on YouTube directed at customers and homeowners, from how to deal with insurance to how to replace one shingle. People watch them all the time, and I get a lot of satisfaction knowing that someone might have saved hundreds of dollars by being able to repair their own roof.

We also showcase projects and products people don’t see every day, like our chimney flashing, which we custom-make on site. We also use Facebook, which has been a huge generator of customers; Instagram; and we’re starting to focus on TikTok, so we’ll see what comes of that.

Q: What are your key roofing tools?

A: Cougar Paws shoes are amazing to keep you stuck to the roof. They’re like magic. I feel like Superman on the shingles.

I like the Estimator Boot, because I am mostly doing sales and they look like hiking boots. My crew folks like the Performer Boot, because it’s a bit more rugged.

A good extension ladder is also critical. I prefer my teams use a 28-footer, because 24- and 26-foot ones don’t always reach the second story. And I use aluminum because I can’t lift the fiberglass. It’s also very handy to have a really nice fold-up ladder, because a lot of times you have to go from one ladder to another, or get in somebody’s attic.

Then a hook blade for utility knives really helps cut through the face of a shingle. They come in packs like normal razor blades, and you can just stick them in your utility knife. A pry bar is amazing to get in between shingles, and it has to be the right kind because the narrow ones don’t work; they tear the shingle. Don’t forget sidewalk chalk, for marking up roofs!

And then for me personally, there’s Job Nimbus software. I don’t think I could run my company or live my life without Nimbus. It stores all of our pictures, invoices and contracts. We can make material orders in there, and work orders for our crews and suppliers. It’s also my appointment center. If anything ever happened to it, I don’t know what I would do.

Ami Feller Bio

Before starting Roofer Chicks, Ami Feller worked in high-profile corporate management positions for Caterpillar, DHL Express and Coca-Cola. Today she prides herself on her civic involvement and her company’s sterling reputation.

Roofer Chicks is certified as a GAF Master Elite contractor for residential and commercial buildings. It’s also a member of the Roofing Contractor Association of Texas (RCAT), and holds a Tile Roofing Industry (TRI) certification for concrete and clay tile roofing and an A+ rating with the Better Business Bureau.

The post The Eleven Percent: Meet Ami Feller, Roofing Contractor appeared first on Family Handyman.

I built this portable sauna with accessible and affordable materials you can find at your local building center. The simple design enables you to easily construct the four walls, floor, roof and benches on-site or in your garage, then transport it to a remote location.

The sauna is five feet wide x four feet deep x 7-ft. 8-in. tall. Build your sauna to the size that meets your needs.  See Figure 1 for a look at how it all goes together.

Before you start cutting boards and pounding nails, put together a flat work surface such as a 4×8 sheet of plywood on sawhorses. This will make assembling and maneuvering the components of the project much easier. Enlist a helper to assist in lifting walls and roof components.

When purchasing materials, always buy a few extra 2x2s and 2x4s for your project. You can often return extra building materials you don’t use.

Figure 1

Overall dimensions: 95-in. H x 6-in. W x 48-in. D.

Cutting List

The Sauna Floor Base

• Let’s start this project from the ground up and build the floor base first. Start by cutting and assembling four pressure-treated ground contact 2x4s for the floor outer base frame using #9 x 3-in. deck screws.
• Next, measure the inside of the outer frame to get the dimensions for the inner frame. Then cut and assemble the inner frame adding support boards evenly spaced as shown above.
• Insert and attach the inner frame to the inside of the outer frame, letting the inner frame stick up 1-1/2-inches from the top edge of the outer frame.

Install the Floor

• Cut a piece of 3/4-in. plywood the size of the base inner frame.
• Before attaching the plywood floor to the base, insulate the spaces between each stud with 1-1/2-inch foam board insulation.
• Attach the plywood to the floor base using #8 x 2-in. exterior screws.

Front Wall Frame

• Moving on to framing walls, let’s start with the front wall. Refer to the cut list and cut all the 2x4s and 2x2s to length for the front wall. (See above.)
• Rip a 15-degree angle down the center of a 2×4 for your top board. Save the falloff piece for the top board of the back wall.

• To lay out the stud placement on the wall, hold the top and bottom boards together and draw lines where each stud will be attached.

• Lay all the boards on a flat surface. Using  #9 x 3-in. deck screws, attach all the studs to the top and bottom board at the lines you made.
• Attach a 2×4 as a header of your door opening. (See photo below.)

Back Wall Frame

• Refer to the cut list and cut all the 2×2 studs to length.
• Using the fall-off piece from the front wall top board you ripped the 15-degree angle on, as before, hold the top and bottom boards together and draw lines where each stud will be attached.
• Assemble the back wall frame the same way you did the front wall, using #9 x 3-in. deck screws.

Side Wall Frames

Cut studs

• The two side walls are identical, so you can cut all your parts on the cut list for both walls.
  • Pro tip: First cut the 15-degree angles on the ends of all the 2×2 and 2×4 studs. Then trim the studs so that when assembled, the high point of the side wall is the same height as your front wall, and the low point of the side wall matches the height of the back wall. (See above.)

Attaching studs

• Attach the two 2×4 studs to the top and bottom boards.
• Cut a few blocks for spacers for the space between studs. This will help you evenly space the studs.
• Working from right to left, place two spacer blocks against the first 2×4, one near the top and one near the bottom. Then place a 2×2 stud against the spacer blocks and tight to the top board. You may have to trim the studs before attaching them.

Bracing

• Add bracing between the studs on the back and side wall where the two benches and heater will be attached.

Exterior Wall Covering

Side walls

• There are many types of wood siding out there; choose what works for you and your budget. We went with T1-11 plywood siding.
• Start by laying one of your side wall frames flat on your work surface, with the outside of the wall facing up. Place a sheet of siding on top of your wall frame keeping it flush with the bottom of the frame. Hold it in place with a few clamps or drive a few nails along the bottom edge.
• Once the wall frame is square with the long edge of the siding, finish nailing it to all the studs using #11-1/2 x 2 in. galvanized siding nails.
• Cut the angle along the top edge of the wall, using a router with a flush trim bit.
• Repeat this on the other side wall.

Front and back walls

• Attaching siding to the front and back walls the same way as the side walls. The only difference: After you’ve squared the siding with the wall frame, draw a line on the underside of the siding along the top board. Then cut a 15-degree angle along the line.
• When attaching the siding, let it hang over 2-1/4-inches on both sides of the walls. Since the side walls are five feet wide, fill in the remainder of the siding, being sure to let it hang over 2-1/4-inches off the other edge.
• When the siding is securely fastened to the frame, cut out the door opening on the front wall using a router with a flush trim bit.

Insulating

• Now on to insulating the walls. Start by measuring the spaces between studs. Using a table saw or a long blade utility knife, cut pieces of 1-1/2-inch foam insulation for each stud space.
• The foam insulation simply friction fits into each stud space. Cut the angle on the top of each piece for the side walls.

Vapor barrier

• Cut and attach radiant foil vapor barrier to the interior of all four walls with a staple gun.

• Seal the edges and any seams with foil tape.

Cedar Shiplap

• Before installing the cedar shiplap, be sure there’s a 1/4-in. vapor gap between the vapor barrier and the shiplap. This allows moisture to evaporate.
• Cut and attach 1/4-in. x 1-1/2-in. wood strips onto each stud, the full length of all four walls.
• For the side walls shiplap, start your first row 2-1/4-in. from the bottom and 1-1/2-in. from each side, then attach the cedar shiplap to each stud using 1-1/4-in. nails. When you reach the top of the wall, let the shiplap hang over the angle, then trim off the pieces using a router with a trim bit.
• For the front and back wall cedar shiplap, again start your first row of shiplap 2-1/4-in. from the bottom — this time, only a 1/2-in. from each side.

Assemble Walls

• Start by setting the back wall on the floor base first. Have a helper hold it in place or attach a 2×4 from the edge of the wall to the floor base.
• Set one of the side walls on the floor base and secure it to the back wall with bar clamps.
• Check to see if the tops of the walls line up – this will assure your box is square. Then secure the two walls together with 5/16- x 4-in. structural screws. Attach the other side wall to the back wall in the same manner.
• Set the front wall on the base and clamp all four walls together. Again, check to see if the tops of the walls line up. Then secure both side walls to the front wall with 5/16- x 4-in. structural screws.

The Roof

Roof frame

• Start by measuring the width of the inside of your sauna and cut a 2×4 to that dimension. Then rip the 2×4 in half at a 15-degree angle just like you did for the top boards of the front and back walls.
• Clamp those two boards along the top ridge of the front and back walls, aligned with the 15-degree angle. Measure the distance between the two boards, then cut five 2×2 studs to that length.
• Attach the studs to the front and back 15-degree angled boards with 3-in. screws. (See Fig. 6.)

Roof deck

• Cut 3/4-in. plywood for the roof deck. Depending on the size of your roof, you may need to butt two pieces of plywood together.

Attach the roof frame

• Center the roof frame on the plywood deck and attach it with #8 x 2-in. exterior screws from the underside of the plywood.

Insulation, vapor barrier and cedar shiplap

• Insulate each stud space and attach a vapor barrier to the frame as you did the walls.
• Cut and attach 1/4-in. wood strips to each stud as before.
• Cut and attach cedar shiplap to the frame, keeping it flush on all four edges of the frame.

Roof trim

• Flip the roof over and measure for trim.
• Cut and install 1×4-inch cedar trim along all four sides of the roof deck with #13 x 2-in. galvanized finish nails.

Ice and water roof shield

• Starting at the bottom of the roof, staple an ice and water roof shield to the roof deck overlapping it three inches as you work your way up the roof.

Metal roof

• Cut corrugated metal roof panels so they overhang the roof deck at least two inches on all four sides.
• Attach horizontal plastic closure strips at the top and bottom edges of the roof deck to seal the gaps between the corrugated roof panel and the ice and water roof shield.
• Attach the corrugated roof panels using roofing screws. Be sure to overlap the panels at least three inches with Butyl sealant tape between each panel. Want to protect it from rust? Here are a few tips to paint metal roof.

Install the roof

• With a helper, lift the roof assembly on top of the sauna walls and set it into place. Secure it with 5/16- x 4-in. structural screws along the top rim of the walls.

Exterior Paint

• Paint the wood siding with exterior paint or seal it with a deck stain.

Trim

• Attach 1×4-in. cedar trim to the four exterior corners of the sauna. Be sure to use the #8 x 2 in. finish screws to attach the trim so it can be removed later when you disassemble the sauna for transportation. Add trim around the exterior of the door if desired.

Benches

Upper bench dimensions: 3-1/2-in. H x 56-in. W x 15-in. D.
Lower bench dimensions: 3-1/2-in. H x 56-in. W x 26-in. D.

Benches Cutting List

• In a sauna, you typically have two benches: an upper bench about 30 inches from the floor, and a cool-down bench no more than 18 inches from the floor.
• These benches are simply designed as a 2×4 cedar frame with 1×6 cedar decking attached to nailing cleats set inside the frames.
• Start by measuring the width of the inside of your sauna. Then make yourself a cut list. Cut all the boards to length, assemble the frames and attach the nailing cleats.
• Place the deck boards on the nailing cleats between the front and back boards with a 1/2-in. gap between each board. Attach the deck boards with #8 x 2-in. finish screws.

Install benches

• Attach the benches (level) to the back and side walls using  5/16- x 4-in. structural screws through the cedar shiplap into the bracing inside the walls.

The Door

• The door for your sauna could be as simple as a piece of plywood on hinges with a door pull. Your sauna door should always open out and never have a lock.
• We decided to build our glass panel door using 1-1/2-inch cedar boards. To save money on tempered glass, we chose tempered glass cutting boards.

 The Heater

• Here’s the most important question to ask when choosing a heater for your sauna: What’s your power source? You can heat a sauna with natural gas or propane, electricity or wood.
  • Natural gas or propane heaters are efficient and work well for larger sauna rooms. You’ll need to plumb and vent the heater just like a gas furnace.
  • Electric sauna heaters are the most common and affordable. They’re also convenient — with the flip of a switch, you have heat. You can find them in different kilowatt sizes to fit any size sauna. You may, however, need a 220-volt circuit depending on the size of the heater.
  • If your sauna is in a remote area with no gas or electricity, fire up a wood-burning heater. Vent it just like you would a wood stove.
  • Infrared saunas using infrared panels or light bulbs are other options if electricity is nearby.
• We always recommend hiring a licensed plumber or electrician to install any gas or electric appliance.

Install a guard rail

• No matter what heater you decide on, always build a guard rail around it to protect you and your sauna guests from burns.

Disassemble and Transport

• Now that your sauna is complete, it’s time to disassemble it in reverse order of how it was assembled, and safely transport the sauna to its next destination.

The post How to Build a Portable DIY Sauna appeared first on Family Handyman.

• The first layer on top of the plywood or OSB roof deck is underlayment. For this, we chose a self-healing ice-and-water membrane to protect the shallow-pitched roof deck.

• The tricky part in laying the underlayment is keeping it flat and wrinkle-free. Unroll the underlayment across the roof while removing the bottom half of the adhesive backing. Overlap the previous layer by six to eight inches. Once the underlayment is rolled out, cut it flush and pull the rest of the adhesive backing out from underneath.

Order panels to fit

• If possible, avoid seams in your roof. They don’t look great, and it could lead to water getting underneath the panels.
• I had our metal roofing panels cut to fit the length of our roof.  They were nearly 32 feet long and had to be delivered on a flatbed trailer. Of course, you’ll need a large lift to hoist the panels on top of the roof. If you don’t have one, you’ll have to order more manageable lengths.

Bend trim ends closed

• Before you install the trim, cut and bend the leading end to wrap it around the corner. Make a series of one-inch cuts with aviation snips at each bend to create tabs. Fold the tabs in with a hand seamer to meet a wall or a corner, or to close a gap created by the trim. Each trim is a different shape, requiring unique cuts and bends.

Fasten eave trim

• Install the eave trim tight to the fascia and fasten it to the roof deck over the underlayment with one-inch roofing nails. In warmer climates, the eave is attached before the underlayment. In northern Wisconsin, where ice dams are common, we install these atop the underlayment to protect the entire roof from dams.

Splice and overlap trims

• Where two trim ends meet, you’ll splice them together. First, cut the bottom hem of the underlapping trim at an angle. After installing the underlapping trim, apply sealant on top. Pry open the bottom hem of the overlapping trim and slide it over the angle-cut hem of the underlapping trim.

Snap a square reference line

• A square reference line is important for installing roofing panels evenly. Use the 3-4-5 method to establish a reference line 90 degrees to the eave.
• First, make a mark along the eave three feet (or any multiple of three) from the corner. At that mark, measure four feet (or the same multiple of four) toward the ridge. Then, from the original corner, measure five feet (or the same multiple of five) and mark where it intersects the second mark.
• Snap a line from the first three-foot mark through the intersection of the second and third marks. Since the Getaway roof is larger, I measured to 21 feet, 28 feet and 35 feet (seven times three, four and five) to make my square reference line.

Set the panels

• Place each metal panel on an inside foam closure strip. These strips are shaped to fit the corrugated underside of the panel and keep bugs and water from getting underneath.
• Position the closure strips along the eave about one inch from the edge and stick them to the panels with butyl tape. Run a bead of sealant on top of the closure strip, then set your panel so it overhangs beyond the eave by one inch. Adjust the panel so any measurement from it to the reference line is the same at the top and bottom.

Drive screws just right

• Fastening the panels just right is the key to a watertight roof. Here is what you should know:
  • At the eave, place screws on both sides of every rib and lined up to go through the foam closure strip.
  • Each row should be spaced no more than 24 inches with one screw at each rib on the overlapping side.
  • Start at the bottom, fastening across the panel in rows, working toward the ridge.
  • Drive screws to seat flat on the roof; a crooked screw won’t seal.
  • Don’t over-tighten or under-tighten. Tighten just enough to compress the rubber gasket to the edge of the screw head, not past it.
  • Clean up any metal shavings or burrs right away. They will rust.

Overlap the panels

• The two edges of the metal panels are different. The edge that overlaps has a shorter rib leg that doesn’t contact the roof surface when laid flat. The rib on the underlapped side has a drainage or anti-siphon channel to keep water moving toward the eave. Overlap the last rib on each panel; they should nest together perfectly.

Cover the rake edge

• After all the panels are fastened, it’s time to attach the gable trim. This cleans up the edge of the panel and keeps rain and snow from getting under the roof panels and siding.
• After you bend the end of the trim to meet the corner at the eave, apply butyl tape on the underside of the trim where it lands on the flat part of the roof panels. Press it in place and drive screws every 12 inches right over the butyl tape.

Secure the ridge cap

• To cap the roof, adhere a line of outside closure strips with butyl tape four inches from the top of the peak; this is where you’ll fasten the ridge cap to the roof with screws. Apply a bead of sealant on the foam closure, then fit the ridge cap on the peak and fasten with two-inch screws to the roof deck through every rib.
• With the cap of the roof complete, all the water that lands on the roof will exit the roof without ever touching the underlayment. Check out our guide to DIY roof installation.

FAQ

What are the pros of a metal roof?

Metal roofs are built to last with a life expectancy of between 50 to 70 years. They are also low maintenance, requiring occasional inspection and fastener tightening if needed. Unlike asphalt roofing, metal roofs are resistant to moss, mold and other organic growth. Metal roofs also lower cooling costs by reflecting heat away from the home, leading to cooler indoor temperatures.

What are the cons of a metal roof?

The main downside to metal roofs is their high cost compared to asphalt roofing. Expect to pay two to three times the price of asphalt for metal. Another con is that metal roofs can be loud, especially if located under trees. Falling acorns, branches or even rain, can be very loud inside a home with a metal roof. Metal roofs can also dent during hailstorms.

The post A Full Guide to Metal Roof Installation appeared first on Family Handyman.

Start the project by tearing off the old roofing, shingles and underlayment. If you have movable items near your house and are worried they might get damaged, relocate them. Invest in a few large tarps to protect your plants and landscaping and catch the thousands of nails that will rain off the roof. Removing old self-stick ice-and-water underlayment can be downright impossible, so it’s OK if you have to leave it in place. Whenever possible, I park a dumpster close to the house to toss in the old shingles right from the roof, simplifying the clean-up.

The most efficient tear-off procedure is to pry off the ridge cap shingles with a pry bar and then transition to a roofing tear-off shovel for the rest. Starting at the ridge, work the shovel underneath the shingles and underlayment, prying them up and pushing them down toward the eave. It’s important to remove all the old nails or pound them flat because protruding nails will tear holes in the new shingles.

Repair the decking and cut new vent openings

Replace any decking that shows signs of water damage or rot. If all the decking is in good shape, you can skip this step, but on an old roof, chances are there will be damaged areas. Set the blade depth of a circular saw to slightly more than the thickness of the decking to avoid cutting into a joist and cut a rectangle around each damaged section (make the rectangle large enough to intersect a joist on either end). Remove that section and replace it with CDX plywood or OSB of the same thickness (usually 1/2 inch). Secure it to the joists with 1 1/2″ screws or nails.

If you plan on installing new vents or skylights, this is the best time to cut the openings for them.

When you’re done, sweep the roof decking clean with a broom.

Install drip edge on the eaves

Fasten the drip edge that covers the fascia on the eaves. The whole length of the fascia is probably not perfectly straight, so don’t snap a line; just hold the drip edge snugly against the fascia and fasten it through the top into the decking with roofing nails. Nail it every couple of feet with 1-1/4-in. roofing nails, and cut it to length as needed with tin snips.

Metal drip edge isn’t usually required (check with a local building official). Still, I always install it because it gives roof edges a nice finished look, prevents shingles from curling over the edge, and keeps water from rotting the edges of the decking and the fascia.

• Pro tip: Wait until you finish installing the underlayment before you install the drip edge on the gable ends of the roof. Start at the bottom side of the gable and overlap the sections of drip edge a few inches as you work your way up the roof.

Stick on the ice barrier (if required)

Install self-stick underlayment in regions where codes require it. Often called “ice-and-water” underlayment, it prevents water that seeps under the shingles from damaging the decking because it sticks to the roof decking to seal out water. It also seals around nails and keeps water from leaking through nail holes.

Rolls of self-stick underlayment have a plastic backing to prevent the material from sticking to itself. The backing is separated down the middle. Line up the lower edge of the roll with the outside of the drip edge. Peel back part of the uppermost backing on the roll, and nail the top corner of the underlayment to the decking. Start pulling the roll across the decking using the backing, ensuring the material is as flat and as straight as possible as you pull. Cut sheets to length as needed with a utility knife.

Continue up the roof, ensuring each upper course overlaps the one below it by at least two inches. It’s important to ensure all your underlayment lies flat before you fasten it to the decking. Ripples and lumps can telegraph through the shingles and may be noticeable from the ground.

On warm days, self-stick underlayment will stick to clean decking without fasteners. Fasten it to the roof with staples or nails on colder days, but only fasten the top part of the underlayment until you go back and peel off the bottom half of the plastic backing. The higher the temperature outside, the stickier the adhesive on the rolls gets and the trickier it is to work with, so keep that in mind when you plan your project.

• Pro tip: Many severe climate areas have specific requirements for installing self-stick underlayment, so always consult your local building official. Also, remember to slide the underlayment underneath any existing vent or chimney flashing.

Lay roofing felt paper

Cover the roof with roofing felt paper. If you installed an ice barrier, the felt paper goes on top of that; otherwise, it goes directly on the decking. I usually use lightweight 15-lb. paper unless local codes call for 30-lb. paper, or I plan to leave the paper exposed for more than a few days. Heavier paper wrinkles less and is less likely to tear when someone walks on it.

Start each course by driving several staples grouped close together, then unroll the felt and straighten out the row before you add more staples. Space staples approximately 12 inches apart. Work your way from the eave to the peak, laying the courses horizontally with the upper courses overlapping the lower ones by at least two inches. When you need two pieces of paper in the same row, overlap their seams by at least six inches. Use a utility knife for cutting.

When you reach the top of the roof, run your last row long and drape the paper over the peak (top ridge) onto the other side. When you reach the top on the other side of the roof, run that paper up and over as well. That way, you’ll end up with a watertight ridge. Your local building official may want to inspect your roof at this point, but sometimes, you can get by by snapping a few photos. Ask about the inspection schedule when you pick up your permit.

• Pro tip: Don’t scrimp on staples. Paper with too few staples will tear out under your feet and could cause a fall. Don’t walk on paper that hasn’t been stapled down.

Install valley flashing

Complex roofs with more than one peak have valleys between the sloped sections that are especially vulnerable to leaking, so they need the protection of metal valley flashing. I leave the valleys uncovered when installing felt paper, so I can do them separately when I install the flashing. Here’s a method I have learned:

1. Install self-stick underlayment. This process is easier with two people. Cut the underlayment to size (or in sections for long valleys), and peel off the entire plastic backer. With a person on each end, fold the underlayment in on itself, sticky side out. Then, lay it into the valley and unfold it. Try to push it down into the crease of the valley as tightly as possible. If you leave a gap underneath, the underlayment could tear when you install the metal valley flashing. Run the underlayment past the drip edge at the eaves and trim off the extra with a utility knife. Once it’s smooth, nail it down on the outside edges.
2. Install felt paper over the self-stick underlayment. When trimming the felt paper, be careful not to cut into the underlayment.
3. Install the flashing. Lay the flashing in place. Bend the top edge over the roof peak and trim the bottom edge flush with the drip edge, using tin snips. Nail the flashing down along its outside edge (you don’t want any nails on the exposed part of the flashing, or they’ll leak). Space nails by 12 inches.
4. Lay vertical shingles along the edges. Snap chalk lines on either side of the flashing 1-1/2 to 3 inches from the center. Arrange shingles vertically along these lines and drive nails to hold them at the edge of the flashing or just outside it. These vertical shingles provide a clean line inside the flashing and eliminate the need for trimming when you lay the rest of the shingles. The adhesive on the underside of the shingles will adhere to the metal to make a good seal.

Install vents

Now is the time to install any vents for which you have cut openings. These usually come with their own flashing. Apply a bead of roof sealant along the underside of the flashing, set the vent or skylight in position over the opening and secure it by driving nails through the flashing. Put a dab of roof sealant on each nail head to prevent leaking.

• Pro tip: Don’t drive any nails through the flashing on the downward side of the slope — you still need to slide shingles underneath it.

Begin with starter shingles

Run a row of starter shingles with the leading edge a 1/2 inch beyond the drip edge. A starter shingle is half the width of a regular one, and it has an adhesive strip to hold down the shingles you place over it. Its purpose is to prevent water from leaking through the seams of the two shingles you place over it.

Position starter shingles so the adhesive strip is toward the bottom and facing up, and secure it with five nails placed two to three inches up from the bottom of the eave.

Some pro roofers install starter shingles on the gable ends as well. It’s not usually required, but it provides a cleaner look. Hang gable-end starter shingles 1/2 inch past the drip edge, and make sure you overlap the starter shingle on the eave by 2 to 3 inches.

Continue with the rest of the shingles

Start laying shingles along the eave and work your way toward the peak. Follow the manufacturer’s nailing instructions. This is crucial because improper nailing is the leading cause of roof failures in storms. Each shingle generally requires five evenly spaced nails driven above the adhesive strip far enough to be covered by one inch of the shingle above it. I always use 1-1/4-in. zinc-coated roofing nails.

Line up the bottom of the first row of shingles with the starter row’s bottom edge, ensuring the seams are staggered. With that row complete, you’ll need to figure out the reveal (the portion of the shingle that isn’t covered by the one above it). Standard reveals vary between 5 and 6-1/2 inches. Whatever the reveal is supposed to be, snap a horizontal line that distance from the top of the first row of shingles to guide you in installing the next row. The line helps keep the next row straight and is more accurate than lining up the bottoms of the shingles.

Slightly wavy rows won’t be noticeable from the ground, so only snap lines every several rows to straighten things out. Follow the stagger pattern recommended by the manufacturer of your shingles, and use partial shingles to start subsequent rows. Once you get within 8 ft. of the ridge, measure down to your shingles at each end of the row. If one side is closer to the peak than the other, snap lines for all the remaining rows, making the reveal on one side progressively larger until you make up the difference. Don’t adjust any row by more than 3/16 inch.

• Pro tip: For nice, straight lines, run shingles over the edge of the roof, then snap a chalk line and trim them off with a hook blade in your utility knife. If the overhang is more than a foot, cut some off and use the remainder elsewhere.

Shingle around existing vents

Install a layer of underlayment around vent pipes and caulk with roof sealant before shingling.

When you reach the vent, slide the lower shingles underneath the flashing and drive nails through the flashing and into the decking. Seal each nail head.

Install the upper rows on top of the flashing, cutting the shingles as needed to fit around the vent. When you nail the upper shingles, get as close as possible to the flashing, but avoid driving directly through it.

Cap the ridge

Use the same technique as you did with the felt paper when you reach the ridge: Wrap the first side over the top, and then wrap the second side over the first. Cut the shingles to size with a utility knife fitted with hook blades. Run the shingles long over hip ridges and rakes and in the valleys. When you’re all done installing the shingles, snap lines and trim the shingles to the line with a hook blade.

Once all your shingles are installed, you’ll need to cover (cap) the ridge (and hip ridges if you have a hip roof), and you use ridge cap shingles for this. Install them so the prevailing wind blows over them and not into them. You might need longer nails to drive through the several layers of shingles on the ridge.

Hip roof: If you have a hip roof, the top ridge cap shingles will overlap the hip ridge cap, so start with the hips. Snap a couple of guidelines just a little inside the perimeter of the ridge so the lines get covered up when you’re done. Nail each shingle on both sides about 1 inch above the overlap seam.

Install step and dormer flashing

Start by running self-stick underlayment at least 6 inches up onto the walls. This provides an additional barrier if water does get past the flashing. Cover the front wall first, and then work your way up the side wall. Overlap the sidewall underlayment around the corner onto the front wall about one inch or so.

Install the shingles right up to the front wall. Cut a couple of inches off the vertical portion of the dormer flashing, and run the horizontal portion past the side wall that same distance. Nail the dormer flashing to both the wall and the shingles.

Make a 1 to 2-inch cut with tin snips at the bend in the first step flashing. Run a bead of sealant on the corner edge of the dormer flashing, and then run that step flashing past the dormer flashing the same distance you made your cut. With your hammer, bend the step flashing around the corner onto the dormer flashing.

Install your next row of shingles over that first step flashing, then cover that row with a step flashing, and so on. Nail the step flashing to the wall toward the top of the flashing at the end closer to the peak, so the next step flashing in line will cover the nail. Don’t nail them down through the shingles.

For information about flashing around chimneys, see Installing Chimney Flashing.

• Pro tip: It’s possible to reuse existing step flashing and dormer flashing, but the best way to get a watertight seal is to tear off the siding in those areas and install new flashing.

Seal it up

Before you put your ladder away, sweep all the debris off the roof. Then, seal all the exposed nails on your vents and stack flashing. If you used stack flashing that has a rubber boot, seal the area where any rubber meets the pipe. Avoid silicone (it won’t hold up) and asphalt-based sealants (they tend to dry out when exposed to direct sunlight). I prefer Lexel. It’s clear like silicone, sticky as model glue and lasts for years.

• Pro tip: The areas you sealed require maintenance. Inspect them every few years.

FAQ

Should a DIYer attempt to roof a house?

Installing roofing is straightforward enough, but it can be tricky, and if you make mistakes, you’ll be living with roof leaks until you or the pro you should have hired in the first place corrects it. Here are some roof problems that you should keep in mind before starting. The best roofs for DIYers are simple ones that aren’t too steep and have a minimum number of valleys and no dormers.

When is the best time of year to roof a house?

This depends on where you live. The ideal weather for roofing is dry and not too hot or cold. In most parts of the country, that would be early to late spring and early to mid-fall. In temperate climates, you might be able to work throughout the summer without getting fried.

The post A Full Guide to DIY Roof Installation appeared first on Family Handyman.

If your roof includes a chimney or sidewall, you’ll have to make a notch.  I do this in two steps with two tools.

Cut Across the Panels

After marking the notch, I start by making the cuts across the panel, which means you’re cutting over the ribs.  The BEST way to do this is with a profile nibbler. Instead of cutting the metal, it actually makes several punches, which allows it to cut over the ribs. Profile nibblers do not track straight so move slowly.

For Long Straight Cuts

For the straight cut up the flat part of a panel I use a double cut shear. It’s fast, cuts straight and leaves a nice finished edge. Double cut shears make a 1/4-in. wide cut that creates a thin, sharp metal coil, so wear gloves and keep it from scratching the panels.

Prevent Ice Dams

Cut and Bend Trim Ends

At each end of the roofing trims, tabs need to be cut so the trims can be bent around the edge and close off the gap they create on the roof.  Make a series of one-inch cuts with aviation snips at each bend to create tabs. Fold the tabs in with a hand seamer to match the roof edge or peak.  Each trim is a different shape, requiring unique cuts and bends.

The post How to Cut Metal Roofing appeared first on Family Handyman.

Damaged Plumbing Vent Boots

Plumbing vent boots can be all plastic, plastic and metal, or even two-piece metal units. Check plastic bases for cracks and metal bases for broken seams. Then examine the rubber boot surrounding the pipe. That can be rotted away or torn, allowing water to work its way into the house along the pipe. With any of these problems, you should buy a new vent boot to replace the old one. But if the nails at the base are missing or pulled free and the boot is in good shape, replace them with the rubber-washered screws used for metal roofing systems.

Ceiling Stains

If you have water stains that extend across ceilings or run down walls, the cause is probably a leaky roof. Tracking down the leak is the hard part; the roof leak repair is usually pretty easy. We’ll show you some simple tricks for finding and repairing most of the common types of leaky roofs. If you have a leaky roof, you’d better fix it immediately, even if it doesn’t bother you much or you’re getting a new roof next year.

Even over a short time, small leaks can lead to big problems, such as mold, rotted framing and sheathing, destroyed insulation and damaged ceilings.

Shiners

If you can’t see any telltale flow marks and the ceiling stain is fairly small, look at the underside of the roof for ‘shiners.’ A shiner is a nail that missed the framing member. Moisture that escapes into the cold attic from the rooms below often condenses on cold nails. Sometimes you can spot this if you climb up into your attic on a cold night. The nails will look white because they’re frosted. When the attic heats up a bit during the day, the frost melts and drips, then the nails frost up at night again and so on. The solution is to simply clip the nail with a side-cutting pliers.

Damaged Shingles

A broken shingle is both ugly and a leak waiting to happen. But as long as you can find matching shingles (and you’re not afraid of heights), the replacement is straightforward.

Dirty, Clogged Soffits

Attic ventilation is critical to the health of your house. It begins with soffit vents that inhale outside air—necessary to create an airflow that moves warm attic air out the roof vents. Once the air enters the soffit, it usually proceeds through an air chute or some other opening along the underside of the roof into the attic. The plastic air chutes (from home centers and building suppliers) in each rafter space keep the air path clear between the rafters and the roof sheathing. Clear soffits help to prevent moisture buildup and ultimately mold growth on your roof’s framing.

Mold Where Roof and Exterior Wall Meet

Kick-out flashing is critical where a roof edge meets a sidewall. Without it, roof runoff flows down the wall and possibly into the wall. This is worst when there is a door or a window below and water can seep behind the trim. You might not notice it for years, but eventually rot will destroy sheathing and framing. In extreme cases, the stucco is the only thing holding up the wall! Don’t wait for that to happen to you.

Rusted Gutters

Gutter leaks usually start at rusty spots or seams that have opened up because of expansion and contraction. If your gutter is still basically sound, the easiest way to stop the leak is by covering the damaged area with roof and gutter repair tape (available at home centers and hardware stores). First remove rust with a wire brush and scrape out tar with a putty knife.

Roof Vent Issues

Check for cracked housings on plastic roof vents and broken seams on metal ones. You might be tempted to throw caulk at the problem, but that solution won’t last long. There’s really no fix other than replacing the damaged vents. Also look for pulled or missing nails at the base’s bottom edge. Replace them with rubber-washered screws. In most cases, you can remove nails under the shingles on both sides of the vent to pull it free. There will be nails across the top of the vent too. Usually you can also work those loose without removing shingles. Screw the bottom in place with rubber-washered screws. Squeeze out a bead of caulk beneath the shingles on both sides of the vent to hold the shingles down and to add a water barrier. That’s much easier than renailing the shingles.

Loose Step Flashing

Step flashing is used along walls that intersect the roof. Each short section of flashing channels water over the shingle downhill from it. But if the flashing rusts through, or a piece comes loose, water will run right behind it, and into the house it goes. Learn how to install step flashing.

Mold on Exterior Walls

If mold is growing on an exterior wall, there could be a leak in the roof. Measure from the moldy area to a reference point like a door, then find the spot on the other side of the wall or ceiling. Look for ground sloping toward the house and down-spouts emptying next to the wall.

Holes Drilled on Purpose

Tiny holes in shingles are sneaky because they can cause rot and other damage for years before you notice the obvious signs of a leak. You might find holes left over from satellite dish or antenna mounting brackets or just about anything. And exposed, misplaced roofing nails should be pulled and the holes patched. Small holes are simple to fix, but the fix isn’t to inject caulk in the hole. You’ll fix this one with flashing.

Missing Gutter Apron

When water flows off the edge of your roof, some of it clings to the underside of the shingles and dribbles toward the fascia. If you have gutters but no gutter apron to stop the water, it will wick behind the gutter. Eventually the fascia, soffits and even the roof sheathing will rot. You may see water stains below the gutter on the fascia and soffit. This is a sure sign that the gutter apron is missing.

Rusted Chimney Flashing

All kinds of bad things can happen around brick chimneys. Flashing around chimneys can rust through if it’s galvanized steel, especially at the 90-degree bend at the bottom. A quick but fairly long-term fix is to simply slip new flashing under the old rusted stuff. That way any water that seeps through will be diverted.

Stains Around a Bathroom Fan

Water stains on the ceiling around your bath fan may indicate a leak coming from the vent cap on your roof, but condensation is the more likely culprit. If bath fan ducting isn’t properly insulated, the moist air from your house will condense inside the duct.

Hail Damage

When a large hailstone hits an asphalt shingle, it can tear or even puncture the shingle. But usually, it just knocks granules off the surface. When a shingle loses its protective layer of granules, UV rays from the sun begin to destroy it. More granules fall off around the damaged spot and the bruise grows.

The post 15 Silent Signs You Have a Damaged Roof appeared first on Family Handyman.

Enhance Decks with Lighting

Landscape lighting may seem like a complicated DIY project, but low-voltage lighting systems are actually a job any beginner can tackle. And if you make your deck the focus, the extra visibility will even add a certain level of safety. Low-voltage systems are much less dangerous than standard household wiring because the system relies on a transformer plugged into a standard GFCI receptacle. That converts power from 120 volts to 12 volts, then the current travels through outdoor cables to supply power to the fixtures.

Install a Kitchen Backsplash

The kitchen is full of big-ticket items, but the backsplash doesn’t have to be one. In fact, you can comfortably install a backsplash in just one weekend. Plan on installing the backsplash tiles on Saturday and grouting and sealing them Sunday.

Upgrade Kitchen Lighting

Kitchens are the new multi-purpose room. Not only do they need to accommodate the cook, they also serve as a workstation for kids and adults, a gathering space for family meals and dinner parties — the list goes on. While kitchen lighting plays a big role in setting the mood for these tasks, it’s easy to come up with a custom solution to suit your family’s needs and the restraints of the existing wiring.

The Biggest Bang for your Buck

A fresh coat of paint instantly updates and transforms the entire interior of your home, and when you consider that the average price tag of a gallon of one-coat coverage paint is around $38, that’s about the biggest bang for your buck you can get. “Grays are back in vogue, and create a neutral palette that lets your decor really pop,” says Steve Frellick, licensed contractor and founder of Yonder Luxury Vacation Rentals.

Loose Fill Attic Insulation

Adding attic insulation is one of the best best home investments, often times recouping its entire cost in added value to the home. Insulating an attic will also save money on energy costs.

Steel Door Replacement for Entryway

Installing a steel entry door will add to your home’s resale value. It makes a statement right when potential homebuyers go into your home.

Manufactured Stone Veneer

A manufactured stone veneer project remains high on the list of valuable home updates as well. It provides a modern look at an acceptable price whether you’re hiring out the work or going DIY.

Minor Kitchen Remodel

People can go wild with kitchen remodeling projects, but it’s not necessary. A minor kitchen remodeling project recoups more of the cost than a major one.

Garage Door Replacement

Replacing a garage door is big for curb appeal, and it’s also big for recouping the cost of the project.

Fiberglass Entry Door Replacement

On the list of upscale remodeling projects, a fiberglass entry door replacement recouped 85 percent of the cost.

Siding Replacement

Appraisers typically look at the structural elements of a home as part of their process and siding usually plays a part in that. Replacing siding increases value instantly.

Window Replacement

Addressing your windows isn’t just window dressing. Potential buyers will notice them and so do appraisers. Vinyl and wood have comparable recoup rates but wood has a higher average cost and nearly one percent less recoup rate. If you’ve got questions about buying new windows, get the answer to them before you buy. Read about how much window replacements cost.

Universal Design

Aging-in-place or universal design is gaining traction among baby boomers who’d rather continue to live in their homes than have to move later in life. Universal design involves reworking a home so it functions for wheelchair mobility and adds safety features like grab bars in convenient places.

Roof Replacement

The roof is one of the most important parts of a home, so fixing roof problems and replacing when needed is an important project that home buyers will notice. It also turns out to be a pretty good investment.

Deck Addition

A wood deck addition falls on the inexpensive side of remodeling projects, but it’s one of the more valuable.

Smart Home Technology

Smart devices are infiltrating homes at increasing rates. Statista, a market research firm, found 33 percent of homes have one connected device and that number could rise to 60 percent by 2021. These smart devices can even detect leaks in your water heater.

Simple Fixes and Details

Simple fixes like working on the lighting of a home not only cast a new light on the home but also show the level of care given to the home. Buyers notice the little items and it’s important to show those. Washing windows can spruce up the house in a hurry.

Cover Up Wear by Repainting Walls

The paint on walls gets chipped through the years or maybe you’ve got crayon marks from kids you’ve wanted to clean up. Replace those holes in the wall from hanging items by painting. Experts suggest using neutral colors when painting rooms. For tips on painting check out our resources. Or update an old popcorn ceiling.

A Finished Basement Increases Value

An unfinished basement can save money on buying a house but a finished basement instantly adds value to the home. The amount of added useable square footage comes at a lower cost usually than an addition. Plus, the space can be reimagined for uses by the buyers.

Rip up Carpeting and Install Hardwood or Laminate

Hardwood and laminate flooring is comparable in price to luxury carpets but comes without the hassle of continual vacuuming. Plus, these types of flooring are durable and you don’t have to worry about stains as much. It’s fairly simple to install as well.

The post 20 Home Renovations That Instantly Increase Your Home Value appeared first on Family Handyman.

Delaying Necessary Repairs

Waiting too long is one of the most common bad roof maintenance habits out there. Adding a new roof or repairing damage isn’t cheap, but the last thing you want is to put off a small repair and watch it become something much worse.

Not Replacing Missing Shingles

It may just seem like a couple of shingles, but it’s a lot more important than that. A missing shingle can lead to leaks and cause a lot of damage. Shingle repair should happen as soon as you notice the damage.

Walking Too Much on the Roof

More than just the obvious danger of falling off, walking on your roof can leave shingles bare or create gaps between the shingles for leaks. If you do need to venture up on your roof, use a safety harness when appropriate, always wear the right foot protection and use common sense.

Neglecting Gutter Cleaning

Cleaning out your gutters isn’t a difficult chore. It boils down to remembering to do it. Gutters should be cleaned at least once a year, but may require more attention if debris from trees or other objects tend to clog them. If clogged, water can creep under the roof and sometimes into the foundation. Before you start cleaning, make sure you have the right tools.

Selecting Low-Quality Material

Picking low-quality materials isn’t just about what shingles you use or the type of roof you’re installing. Mistakes like the wrong nail or adhesive may leave your roof more susceptible to damage.

Repairing/Patching Instead of Replacing

Going with a patch instead of a full replacement might save you money in the short run while costing you more in the long run. The first step is knowing what to look for when considering a roof repair vs. replacement.

Mold, Moss and Mildew Build Up

Do not let mold, moss, mildew or other issues linger too long. Algae colonies can form in your shingles and do extensive damage. Using shingles treated with algicide keeps the growth at bay for about 10 years.

Pressure Washing

While pressure washing can make for fun time-lapse videos or before and after photos, that doesn’t mean it’s good for your roof. Asphalt shingles are made to hold up to heavy rain, but a concentrated beam of water from a pressure washer packs a punch.

Reusing Old Material

Cutting corners with your roof isn’t wise. Just because one area doesn’t look as bad as the rest doesn’t mean it can be reused. If you have doubts, get a pro’s advice or err on the side of caution. Also, consider if an energy efficient roof makes sense for your home.

Laying New Shingles Over Old Shingles

While building codes might permit a second layer of shingles over the first, it’s usually better to strip off the old shingles first. You can efficiently, and accurately, strip old shingles and lay new ones down.

DIYing Too Big of a Project

There’s no shame in hiring a pro for a major repair, and you’ll sleep a lot better knowing there’s a solid roof over your head.

Accepting the Lowest Repair Bid

Similarly, don’t get stingy. The lowest bid doesn’t always mean you’re getting the best deal. Consult online reviews or check with neighbors or friends to learn more about a potential contractor or company you’re hiring.

Roofing is hard work — here are some of the other most difficult home improvement jobs.

The post 12 Bad Roof Maintenance Habits to Stop Doing Immediately appeared first on Family Handyman.

Winterize Your Gutters

When gutters fill with leaves, sticks and other debris, this can cause clogs and result in water creeping under the roof and sometimes, into the foundation. Clogged gutters can also lead to ice dams in the winter. That’s why it’s important to be cleaning out your gutters every so often.

The Best Way to Clean Your Gutters:

An old plastic spatula makes a great tool for cleaning debris from gutters! It doesn’t scratch up the gutter, and you can cut it to fit gutter contours with snips. Grime wipes right off the spatula too, making cleanup a breeze. Your plumber’s snake is a great tool for pulling clumps of wet leaves out of clogged downspouts.

Don’t feel like putting in that much elbow grease? Consider a gutter cleaning robot.

How Often Should You Clean Your Gutters:

You should clean your gutters at a minimum of once a year and you should do it more often if you have overhanging trees and after a big storm.

Make Cleanup Easier:

To make cleanup easier, spread a tarp underneath your workspace to collect all the gutter gunk and protect your lawn and landscaping. Once you’ve removed the debris from the gutters, use a garden hose to flush the gutters and downspouts and clear out any remaining debris. This will also show you if you have any leaks. Need to replace your gutters? Here’s how to install them.

Set aside some time now to complete these simple fall maintenance tasks so you can rest easy, knowing you’re prepared.

The post Winterize Your Gutters Now to Avoid Regret Down the Road appeared first on Family Handyman.

Dark vs. Light Shingles

Lighter-colored shingles reflect more light and stay cooler in sunlight. And lighter-colored roof shingles help keep attic temperatures—and your air conditioning bill—down.

Some shingle colors have been shown to lower attic temperatures, but whether this means light shingles will last longer than dark shingles is more problematic.

Plus, a broken shingle is both ugly and a leak waiting to happen, so you’ll want to know how to replace damaged shingles.

Be aware! Here are some silent signs your roof might be failing:

Testing the Difference of Roof Shingle Colors

But when it comes to comparing the life spans of dark vs. light, all bets are off. One major shingle manufacturer we spoke with said its tests showed no difference. Its position is that a properly ventilated attic provides enough cooling to offset the increased heat retention of dark shingles. Here are things to consider before replacing your roof.

But some studies dispute that. They claim that since heat always increases molecular activity, and since dark shingles always run hotter, the heat factor alone dictates a shorter life for dark shingles. Yet another study suggests that the sun’s UV rays play a much bigger role in shingle degradation than heat.

Our Shingle Advice

Just about all the experts agree on the importance of proper attic ventilation for longer shingle life. So our advice is to make sure you have more than enough roof and soffit vents and pick whatever color you like. Unless you want to save money on cooling—then you should choose a lighter color.

The post Do Light Colored Shingles Last Longer? appeared first on Family Handyman.

First, remove the skylight’s counterflashing. On some units, you have to remove the whole glass frame. On other models, you simply unscrew a metal channel from the curb. Next, pry off the old shingles, carefully pulling nails to save the flashing.

To reassemble, follow the steps outlined below, and you’ll have a leakproof installation. Note that the metal flashing pieces don’t need to be sealed to each other. Since water runs downhill, they only need to be installed in the right order. So put away that roofing cement.

If you’re hiring a roofing crew, ask them to carefully remove the old flashing and reuse it if it’s in good shape.

Apply Self-sticking Underlayment

Install 6-in. wide strips of a self-sticking waterproof underlayment. This underlayment will direct any water that may get through the metal flashing onto the roofing felt. Install from the bottom up, lapping each piece on top of the lower one.

Set the Lower Flashing

Set the bottom one-piece flashing on top of the shingle course. Nail it only at the upper corners; don’t nail it into the roof.

Add Step Flashing

Weave the step flashing up the side of the skylight as you install each shingle course. Nail at the upper corner.

Set the Top Flashing

The top (head) flashing is one piece that wraps around the sides. This fabricated piece has soldered and sealed seams and corners. Fit and install the next row of shingles, leaving about 1/2 in. of flashing exposed.

The post How To Install Skylight Flashing appeared first on Family Handyman.

• Make sure the ground where you’ll be working is flat and level.
• Add a ladder stabilizer to your ladder. “As always, ladder safety is key,” Larsen says. “Stabilizers are a good thing to have, especially if you’re trying to do the project yourself.”
• Lean your ladder against the house, observing the 4:1 rule: For every 4 feet of climbing height, move the bottom of the ladder 1 foot away from the wall.

Remove Drip Edge

• Lift the shingles on the edge of your roof, and look for the nails holding the drip edge to the decking.
  • Take note of how the drip edge fits in to your roof as you remove it: Decking, ice shield (in cold states), drip edge, underlayment (used to be oil-soaked felt, now synthetic materials), shingle starter strip, shingles.
• Gently use the pry bar to lift the drip edge and free the nails. “You don’t want to push too hard, or you could damage your deck,” Larsen says.
• Work your way down the roof, loosening the drip edge.
• Climb down and reposition your ladder when you can no longer reach your work.
  • A good rule of thumb is to always keep your belly button between the side rails of the ladder.

Prep New Drip Edge

• Determine the length of drip edge you need.
• For new drip edges, measure the eaves (horizontal edges) and rakes (slanted edges) of your roof. You can also use your old drip edge as a reference for the new one.
• Cut the drip edge to length with the tin snips.
  • If you need to overlap the flashing, cut it so it’s “hanging over by about 2 inches or so at any joints,” Larsen says.

Install New Drip Edge

• Start with the eaves so that water coming from the rakes will flow over the drip edge on the eave.
• “Slide the new edge in, keeping it flush with your roof’s edge,” Larsen says.
• Secure the drip edge with galvanized roofing nails. “Make sure the drip edge is extended past the fascia and into your gutters,” Larsen says.
• Seal the seams and nail heads with roofing cement.
• Press the shingles back down over the drip edge.

FAQs

Is installing roof drip edge a DIY-level project?

Larsen says yes, but you have to be careful. “Honestly, an experienced DIY’er could probably do this, but from what I have seen, many are too rough with the removal process and that leads to further damage,” Larsen adds.

If I replace my roof, do I need to replace the drip edge?

Generally, yes. The drip edge is sandwiched between multiple other roof layers. If you’re replacing everything else, there’s not much benefit to reusing the metal flashing, especially if it’s damaged or full of nail holes.

About the Experts

• Mike Larsen is the owner of Larsen Roofing, which has been serving Genesee and Lapeer Counties in Michigan for over 20 years. Larsen got his start in roofing as a laborer, roofing homes on Chicago’s south side, and his roofing expertise is routinely featured in national publications.

The post How to Fix a Roof Drip Edge appeared first on Family Handyman.

Cleaning gutters is a daunting, unpleasant, yet important, task. In spring, you have to trudge up the ladder and get to work. And then, before you know it, it’s fall, and you’re back at it. Plus, if you have messy trees that are taller than your house, expect to clean those gutters even more frequently. Have you considered having a gutter cleaning robot do this work for you?

Check out these 25 hints for fixing roof and gutter issues.

Who Needs a Gutter Cleaning Robot?

There are some key reasons why you should consider purchasing a gutter cleaning robot.

1. You may have no business being on a ladder due to your age or health issues.
2. Your gutters are difficult to reach because they are multiple stories above ground, over a carport or above a landscaping feature.
3. You’re afraid of heights.
4. You’ve tried cleaning your gutters and know that it is a disgusting task.

How Does a Gutter Cleaning Robot Work?

A gutter cleaning robot is a remote-controlled device that you place inside the gutter. The cleaning tool travels on rubberized tracks, making its way down the gutter trough, breaking up clogs and dislodging debris from the gutter with an auger. The auger, which has soft, spinning blades at the front, punches clumps of twigs, dead leaves and other debris in front of it. Meanwhile, brushes, situated behind the blades, pick up the remaining, tiny bits of debris for a final sweep.

Create stronger, better-looking gutters by modifying standard gutter systems. Here’s how to install gutters.

Does a Gutter Cleaning Robot Really Work?

What’s the best gutter cleaning robot? Only one gutter cleaning robot has made it to market thus far—the iRobot Looj 330. This device is made by the same company behind the Roomba series of vacuum cleaners and the Terra robot lawn mower. And, right now it’s hard to say if this gutter cleaning robot will ever live up to its promise. As of now, the verdict is no. The Looj was discontinued in 2017.

If you really want to try one out for yourself, you can still find the discontinued gutter cleaning robot on Amazon from third party sellers. Reviews remain mixed.With 3.3 out of 5 stars on Amazon, some people claim the gutter cleaning robot is worth it.

One positive review: “I bought this robot with the hope of helping my husband with the gutter cleaning chore. We are very very pleased with it. When the gutters and flashing have been installed correctly, there is enough room under the gutter hanging straps for the robot to proceed through the gutters without any problem. It successfully removed leaves and other tree litter, as well as sections of dirt and moss that had colonized the hard-to-reach segments of the gutter.”

One negative review: “As other reviewers have said, not quite ready for prime time. I really wanted this to work because I hate climbing the ladder multiple times to clean the gutters. I ensured it was fully charged before starting. I also tied the string on it in case it got stuck (glad I did). I started with the bigger blades to see how they did and immediately switched to the smaller blades as it got stuck easily. I tried the rotation as directed so it didn’t spray the gunk up under the shingles but then it threw everything back up on the roof. So I reversed the rotation and had it spew gunk up under the shingles but out of the gutter. It was messy and not a great job when it was working. It bogged down and got stuck often. It ran out of juice after one and a half gutters. Probably 50 linear feet. Thank you Amazon for easy returns.”

Buy it now on Amazon.

Every product is independently selected by our editors. If you buy something through our links, we may earn an affiliate commission.

The post Do You Need a Gutter Cleaning Robot? appeared first on Family Handyman.

• Staple guns are smaller and better balanced.  Coil nail guns are literally fed with a coil of nails, and the holder for the nails makes the gun much bulkier.
• Staples are far less prone to jamming up in a gun than nails.
• Staples cost less money.
• Staples are much more compact; a roofer can hold a bunch of sticks of staples in their pocket and reload their gun very quickly.  Nail coils take up a lot more space, they take more time to reload, and they need to be treated carefully; if a coil of nails gets dropped or stepped on, it deforms the coil and makes it much more prone to jamming in the gun.

Staples are used because they make the roofer’s job easier; they don’t equate to a better installation.

The problem with stapled shingles is that they have a much greater chance of coming loose or blowing off the roof because staples are so easy to install improperly.  When a roofer holds a staple gun and fastens a shingle, the staples will have a tendency to be driven at an improper angle.

Staples are often improperly installed because it’s somewhat awkward to hold a staple gun completely perpendicular to the shingle.  For someone who is right handed, it’s much easier to shoot the staples on the left side of their body at an angle similar to a forward slash, and the staples on the right side at an angle similar to a backward slash.  The two super-crude diagrams below should help to illustrate what I’m talking about.

When staples are installed properly, they work fine, but they’re just too easy to install wrong.  This issue doesn’t happen with nails, because they have a round head; as long as a nail is driven in to a shingle straight, it doesn’t matter which way the nail gun is turned.  To know if a roof has been installed with staples, you can sometimes see the outline of the staples pushing through the shingle above.

Also notice, these staples aren’t perpendicular to the shingle.  This is the installation problem that typically happens with staples.

If you have a roof that’s been installed with staples, is it a defective installation?  If it was installed after 2003, technically yes, because staples aren’t allowed any more.  If every staple was perfectly installed, the installation would work just as well as perfectly installed nails, but I’ve found improperly installed staples at every stapled roof I’ve inspected.   If you have a roof with stapled shingles, you don’t need to replace the shingles as a rule of thumb, but you’re taking on some risk.  If shingles start blowing off on a regular basis, you’ll probably want to have the roof covering replaced.  This will be less costly and less of a hassle in the long run than having to deal with constant roof repairs.

When I inspect a house with shingles that have been improperly installed, I tell the same thing to my buyers; the shingles don’t need to be replaced, but they might cause some headaches.  If shingles have already started coming loose and obvious repairs have been made, I typically recommend replacement of the roof covering.

P.S. – Special thanks to roof guru and fellow home inspector Mike Moser for always knowing the answer to any technical roofing question right off the top of his head.

Reuben Saltzman is the President of Structure Tech Home Inspections

The post Can You Staple Shingles to Your Roof? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Vinyl Recoiling Sleeves

These install with a simple strap and automatically unfurl as they fill with water.

Pros: They move water away from the foundation by dispersing it sprinkler-style, then recoil when it stops raining. They work well when you need to move water only 3 or 4 ft. away from the house to a slope where it will then run off naturally.

Cons: You need to remove the end clip to push out built-up debris, and you should remove the entire sleeve in freezing temperatures to prevent damage.

Flip-up/Swiveling/Telescoping Spouts

Some simply flip up and out of the way, while others telescope for extra length and swivel 180 degrees to direct water away from the building at any angle.

Pros: The open-top design makes them easy to maintain. Fully extended, some carry water up to 6 ft. away from the foundation.

Cons: The most expensive option, one vulnerable to damage in areas where there’s lots of foot traffic

Flexible Accordion Spouts

Attaches to your downspout with two screws.

Pros: Can be easily twisted to go around corners, shrubs or other obstacles and are easily moved when mowing. Two or more segments can be snapped together, making them ideal for situations where you need to move water over longer distances.

Cons: They look a little industrial—but none of these products is going to win any beauty contests.

A Below-Grade Extension

You’ll need a downspout adapter and end cap, some 4-in. PVC pipe and adapters.

Pros: This is especially effective when the extension needs to cross a walkway or is in a “knock-off-prone” area.

Cons: Connecting and burying everything takes more time than other methods, but it’s the most permanent solution. For this system to work, your lawn needs a little slope; make certain the pipe slants away from the house at least 1/4 in. per ft. If it clogs, clean it out with a plumbing snake.

DIY Flip-Up Spout

Create your own by removing a 2-in. section from the top of a standard extension, then use two screws to create a “hinge” when securing it to the down-spout elbow.

Pros: When it’s time to mow, simply ip the extension up. It’s inexpensive.

Cons: They are subject to “operator malfunction”—if they’re left in the “up” position, you’ll get water around your foundation during a storm.

The post 5 Downspout Upgrades All Homeowners Should Know About appeared first on Family Handyman.

Putting a bucket outside to catch water while it rains may not seem like a huge deal. But in more than a dozen states, it actually is. State legislatures established rules on catching rainwater, and what you can or can’t use the water for. So if you’ve built a rain barrel for your home, be sure to review local laws to make sure you’re in compliance.

Why Is Water Collection a Big Deal?

According to the National Conference of State Legislatures, catching rainwater or “rainwater harvesting” can affect quality standards, public safety and water rights.

That’s right, water rights are actually a thing.

Water rights are a type of interest that can be tacked on to real estate ownership when a property is close to a body of water. This means the landowner has the right to use that body of water and any precipitation surrounding it. Some states mandate that all precipitation belongs to existing water-rights owners, and rain flow needs to join its rightful water drainage.

A journal published by the University of North Carolina titled “Rainwater Collection, Water Law, and Climate Change: A Flood of Problems Waiting to Happen” dives much deeper into water rights. It states that any type of rainwater collectors — whether from gutters on your roof or any other rainwater drain control — “infringes on the water rights lawfully belonging to someone ‘downstream.’ ” This may not seem like a big deal, but for areas experiencing droughts or any other water worries, legislation such as this can be necessary.

Can You Go To Jail for Collecting Rain?

Obviously, your gutter isn’t doing much harm. But for some, collecting rainwater has even landed them in the slammer. Back in 2012, one man in Oregon collected 13 million gallons of water and created three reservoirs on his property from rainwater harvesting. That’s right— he made three separate bodies of water from the water he collected.

While most states permit rainwater harvesting and some even encourage it, other states have specific rules and regulations around the topic. These states specify the uses of the water. For example, if the water can be collected for “non-potable” purposes, it means the water is not suitable for drinking but can be used for other things. Potable means it’s safe for drinking, cooking and bathing.

Here are a few with specific rules governing rainwater harvesting.

Alaska

Rainwater harvesting is encouraged in Alaska and considered a primary source of water. But for groundwater harvesting, regulations are stricter. According to the Alaska Department of Natural Resources, if you reside near a specific body of water, you need water rights to use that water. If you weren’t given a water rights transfer from the previous owner, you need to apply for water rights, accompanied by an appropriate fee.

Arkansas

It’s fine to collect rainwater in Arkansas under specific conditions. You can collect the water for non-potable purposes as long as the system used is designed by a professional licensed engineer with appropriate cross-connection safeguards and follows the Arkansas Plumbing Code.

California

Rainwater harvesting coming from your roof is fine in California. No permit from the state board is necessary. However, collecting rainwater for landscaping purposes would require a license. If a rain capture system is being used to create a water supply (swimming pool, hot tub, fountains, ponds), a landscaper must be authorized to enter a prime contract for that system.

Colorado

Residential homeowners can catch up to two rain barrels of water (approximately 110 gallons). However, the water should only be used for outdoor non-potable purposes on the property where it was collected, such as lawn irrigation and gardening.

For awhile, Colorado had strict harvesting regulations due to the senior water rights. But after a study determined that only three percent of rain reached a stream or groundwater, Colorado decided to revise its legislation.

Illinois

Rainwater harvesting is legal, though two specific statutes apply.  House Bill 991, passed in 2011, mainly deals with solar energy rights. But it also requires homeowners’ associations to specify if rain collection is allowed, and if so, to spell out the location, design and architectural requirements of those systems.

Illinois also has the Green Infrastructure for Clean Water Act. This act works through water conservation, efficiency, infrastructure, and management while promoting rainwater harvesting.

Kansas

Kansas allows water collection, but like Alaska you need water rights to do so. The Kansas Water Appropriate Act protects people’s rights to use ground and surface water within the state. If you do not apply for a right or already hold one with your property, it’s illegal to collect.

However, it’s fine to collect water for domestic use — your household, livestock and up to two acres of lawn and gardens. If you’re unsure about what is considered domestic use, the Kansas Department of Agriculture can explain that for you.

Louisiana

Don’t worry, rainwater harvesting is legal. Just be careful that the rain barrel (also known as a cistern) has a suitable cover. Louisiana law forbids selling polluted water, which also includes ice.

Nevada

It used to be illegal to collect rainwater in Nevada, but a 2017 bill permits rain collection for non-potable domestic use. It also allows remote guzzlers for wildlife that hold up to 20,000 gallons with a capture area of no more than an acre. The piping system can’t be longer than 1/4 of a mile.

North Carolina

Rainwater harvesting is legal in North Carolina with a few regulations. The Department of Environment and Natural Resources must provide statewide outreach and technical assistance regarding water efficiency. This also includes developing best management practices for water reuse, harvesting and greywater use. The State Law 243 authorized changes in the plumbing code facilitating the use of cistern water in residential and commercial buildings.

So what does this mean for you? Appendix C-1 talks in detail about rainwater recycling systems. All rainwater systems should be inspected, and can only receive water from the roof of buildings or other catchments. All reservoirs used should be approved, and it should have an approved filter strainer that is disinfected and colored blue or green.

Ohio

It’s fine to catch rainwater in Ohio, even for potable purposes. However, to provide drinking water for less than twenty-five people the system needs to be regulated by the Ohio Department of Health.

Oregon

It’s legal to collect rainwater in Oregon. But you must have a water rights permit if you plan on using public water, unless the general public has the same access.

Texas

Texas has made many changes to their legislation regarding rainwater harvesting, and luckily the state encourages it. However, there are certain regulations regarding catching water for potable and non-potable purposes. If someone plans to connect a rainwater harvesting system to a public water supply system, they must give written notice to the municipality or the owner of that public water supply system. If there are health effects regarding that water, the municipality or the owner cannot be held liable for the consumption of that water.

There are also other rules regarding residential, commercial and industrial facilities. A municipality cannot prohibit a public facility from harvesting rainwater. And the Texas Water Development Board must provide quarterly training to municipality and county staff.

Utah

Sorry, Utah, but rainwater harvesting has some strict rules. Rainwater harvesting is only allowed on land owned or leased by the person responsible for the collection. Senate Bill 32 states that the person must be registered with the Division of Water Resources if they plan to collect up to 2,500 gallons of rainwater. Registration isn’t required if you use only one container that holds no more than 100 gallons.

Washington

Washington no longer requires a permit to collect water from rooftops, but it still has some pretty strict regulations. Some areas of Washington are stricter than others, so it’s best to check with your specific county.

For now, you don’t need a rainwater collection permit if the rainwater is used on the property and is collected from existing structures that have purposes other than collecting rainwater. Make sure that rainwater collection isn’t restricted due to local regulations. Also, if the water being collected is used primarily for drinking in a new building, check with your county to see if that is allowed.

The post Can You Go To Jail for Collecting Rainwater? appeared first on Family Handyman.

How can you get rid of ice dams?

Here are a few ways to combat this seeping invasion.

Option 1: Attack the Snow

One way to get in front of potential ice dams is to remove the snow that causes them before it has a chance to melt. This does not involve climbing onto a snow and ice-covered roof and putting yourself at risk! Instead, use a tool designed to remove the snow from the safety of the ground. There are a number of these devices available, usually called handled roof rakes or roof shovels. Look for a model that uses a protective buffer (such as wheels or bumpers) to prevent damage to the shingles while removing bulk quantities of snow. And a telescoping handle is a must—the entire idea is to limit risk, not force you to climb onto a ladder or roof in inclement weather.

Obviously this snow removal tool has its limitations. It works best when there’s enough snow to get a hold of, but not so much that it becomes unwieldy. Also, the height of your home and profile of your roof will have to be taken into consideration.

Option 2: Warm the Eaves

Remember that ice dams originate in roof valleys and eaves, where the lower temperature freezes fresh snow melt. This means that you don’t need to attack the entire roof of snow. One popular method is to use an electrical cabling system that boosts the temperature of the eaves just enough to prevent ice dams from forming. Some people claim that putting calcium chloride ice melt (the same material used on sidewalks and driveways) in a pair of pantyhose and laying it across the eaves will prevent ice dams. We checked into this claim and found out that it’s a bust.

Apart from this ice dam pantyhose hack, DIYers have also devised other ways like roof deicing cables to deal with ice dams more safely.

Option 3: Freeze It on the Inside

This clever technique attacks ice dams from the inside. If your home is beginning to suffer the leaks indicative of an ice dam, take a fan (a box fan or small air mover) into your attic and direct it at the section of roof suffering the leak. This blast of cold air will usually be enough to refreeze the fingers of the ice dam, while the snow and ice is melting away on the outside of your home. Once that exterior pressure is relieved, the remaining ice will melt away and run off the rest of the roof. This is a great way to stop the leak in its tracks without having to wrangle any equipment outside, but it’s ultimately treating the symptoms, not the cause.

Option 4: Attack the Root Cause

Ultimately, the goal is to prevent the ice dams from forming. A thermal analysis of your attic will often reveal what’s allowing the temperature of the roof to raise higher at the edges than on the eaves. By stabilizing this temperature you can stop ice dams before they occur.

This can be done with venting, protection from interior warmth, insulation or a combination of these factors. A good starting place is to look for things like bathroom fans or dryer lines that vent into the attic instead of the outside.

Up next, check out some of the best snow and ice removal products.

The post How to Remove an Ice Dam From Your Roof appeared first on Family Handyman.

Chimney leaking? Look for flashing problems

Figure A: Chimney flashing details

Chimneys are notorious for leaking, and the culprit is almost always the sheet metal flashings. Just ask any roofer. But it doesn’t take an expert to spot problems—simply look for water-stained ceilings or other telltale signs of leaking in the vicinity of your chimney. So what is placed around a chimney to prevent leaks?

You’ll want to install new chimney flashing if it’s missing, rusted through, falling out or completely covered with roofing tar (a typical short-term fix that’s sure to be hiding bigger problems). It’s also a good time to install new flashing when you put on new shingles because you’ll want it to last as long as the new roofing (25 to 40 years).

In this article, we’ll tell you how to order new flashing and install it on a brick chimney. Our roof has asphalt shingles, but the procedure is the same for wood shingles. Slate and tile roofs require special flashing techniques that are best left to the pros. Flashing a chimney is an advanced DIY project. For starters, you have to be comfortable working on a roof. Then you have to measure, cut and bend sheet metal to fit precisely around the chimney and layer all the parts so they shed water. Even so, if you’re handy with tools and carefully follow our instructions and diagrams, you’ll be able to flash your chimney in a day. And as far as chimney flashing repair cost goes, by doing it yourself, you’ll save hundreds of dollars.

Gather all materials first, then remove old flashing

Pry, chisel and scrape off old metal flashings and roofing cement.

Before you do anything, get your ladder, roof brackets and safety harness set up so you can work safely and efficiently on the roof. Then measure the chimney and order the saddle and flashing parts (see “How to Buy Chimney Flashing,” below).

We ordered all our 26-gauge galvanized metal flashing bent to the correct angles and dimensions from a sheet metal shop specializing in roofing. The shop did a great job. I dropped off the dimensions and three days later the stuff was ready to pick up. Even with the custom-made saddle, the flashing was inexpensive. In addition to the flashing and shingles, buy a roll of self-adhering roofing membrane (also called ice-and-water barrier), two tubes of polyurethane caulk, and a package of 25 drive-in expanding anchors from a home center or roofing store.

Besides basic hand tools like a hammer, tape measure, 2-ft. level and square, you’ll need a few special tools for working with sheet metal and cutting and drilling masonry. Buy a good pair of straight-cutting tin snips, a 3/16-in. masonry bit and a grinder (a great excuse to buy this useful tool) or a circular saw fitted with a drycut diamond blade for grooving the mortar (Photo 7).

Don’t forget safety equipment. You’ll need a sturdy extension ladder to get on the roof, and roof brackets and top-quality 2×10 planks to work safely once you get there. For maximum safety, especially if the roof is steep or high, buy a personal fall arrest system consisting of a safety harness, lanyard, rope-grab, rope and roof anchor.

How to Find Your Roof Slope

Find the slope of the roof. Label one edge of a 2-ft. square scrap of plywood or cardboard “roof” and lay the labeled edge against the roof. Draw a level line at least 12 in. long on the plywood and label the line “run.”

Measure 12 in. along the “run” line and make a mark. Use a framing square to draw a square line from this mark down to the edge of the plywood labeled “roof.” Label this line “rise.” Measure the length of the line labeled “rise” to determine the slope, expressed as inches of rise for every 12 in. of run. In our case, the roof slope is 6 in. of rise for every 12 in. of run.

Cut base flashing, then attach the base flashing

Cut a piece of prebent base flashing to fit across the front of the chimney. Cut a 45-degree angle to bend around one side.

Install front base flashing

Snug this bent end against one side of the chimney front. Mark the edge of the chimney on the opposite end and snip and bend this end. Pound four evenly spaced 1-in. galvanized roofing nails through the front edge of the flashing to hold it in place.

Once you complete the tearout and clean up, shingle up to the bottom of the chimney (Photo 2) and seal around it with 12-in. wide strips of ice-and-water barrier. Lap the strips 4 in. up onto the bricks and overlap adjacent strips to shed water. Run a full 36-in.wide strip across the top of the chimney. Stick this piece to the roof boards and up 8 in. onto the back of the chimney. Later you’ll seal the new metal saddle to this piece with additional strips of the membrane and then install roofing paper and shingles over the metal saddle.

Start the flashing job by installing the first piece of base flashing across the bottom of the chimney and over the top of the shingles (Photo 3).

Add step flashing and the chimney saddle: Install flashing around the corners

Snip and bend a piece of prebent 8-in. square step flashing to fit 1-1/2 in. around the front corner as shown. Apply a jelly bean–size dollop of caulk at the corner where the chimney meets the roof. Embed the corner step flashing in the caulk and nail it to the roof with two roofing nails.

Install flashing around the chimney

Nail the next shingle over the first step flashing. Then nail another step flashing over this shingle. Continue until you get to the top corner of the chimney. Cut and bend the last step flashing around the top.

Install the chimney saddle

Slide the prebent and soldered chimney saddle into place behind the chimney. Nail it to the roof along the top edge. Space 1-in. galvanized roofing nails about every 6 in. along the edges or closer if necessary to flatten the metal.

Seal the sides of the chimney with prebent pieces of step flashing under each course of shingles (Photos 4 and 5). Slightly flatten the step flashing before you nail it in to ensure a tighter, spring-tensioned fit against the chimney. Pay close attention to overlapping each piece of flashing onto the preceding one in such a way that water is diverted over the top of the shingles. This is the key to a successful flashing job.

Complete the base flashing by nailing the saddle to the roof and sealing it with additional strips of membrane (Photo 6). Shingle over the portion of the saddle that rests on the roof and cut the shingles neatly along the valley, leaving about 2 in. of metal exposed.

How to Buy Chimney Flashing

Making sharp, straight bends in sheet metal is tricky unless you have access to a tool called a sheet metal bending brake. Even then, you need experience to bend complicated shapes. That’s why we’re recommending that you order your chimney flashing from a sheet metal fabricating shop. Large roofing companies often have their own sheet metal shops and are the best place to buy the chimney saddle and flashing; they’ll know exactly what you need. Otherwise, check the Yellow Pages under “Sheet Metal.” We used 26-gauge galvanized sheet steel for our flashing and saddle, but prefinished steel or copper are other possibilities.

Most chimneys have a small rooflike structure behind them, called saddle (Photo 6), that diverts snow and water to both sides of the chimney. Whether your chimney has a wooden saddle covered with shingles, a sheet metal saddle or no saddle at all (like the chimney in this story), we recommend installing a new custom-made sheet metal saddle (Photo 6).

Custom-made saddles are soldered together at critical spots that are hard to seal on saddles that are built in place. Soldered sheet metal saddles less than 3 ft. wide are self-supporting and easier to install if you just tear out any existing metal or wood saddle. Most old saddles were built right over the top of the roof boards and need no patching. Otherwise, fill in the missing boards before installing the new saddle. Saddles wider than 3 ft. may need additional support. Ask your sheet metal fabricator for advice.

Bending and soldering a saddle is complicated, but sheet metal shops need only two pieces of information from you to bend up a saddle: the width of the chimney and the slope of the roof (see “How to Find Your Roof Slope,”).

In addition to the saddle, you’ll need the following sheet metal parts (see Figure A):

• Front base flashing. Order about 12 in. more than the width of the chimney. Some lumberyards stock a “dormer flashing” that will work in this location. You may have to adjust the angle by bending it to match your roof slope.
• Prebent step flashing, 8 x 8 in. Roofers call these “shingle tins”. You’ll need one for each shingle along the edge of the chimney plus a few extra. Most lumberyards stock these.
• Front cap flashing and side cap flashing. Some sheet metal shops stock a flashing for this purpose, but you’ll probably have to have it made. Measure at the front of the chimney from the roof to the third mortar joint and add about an inch to determine the height you’ll need. The shape is relatively simple, so you could buy flat sheet metal, called “coil stock,” and bend these yourself.
• Back cap flashing. This flashing is identical to the front and side cap flashing.

Cover the base flashing with cap flashing: Saw grooves in the mortar

Saw 1-in. deep grooves in the mortar joints to accept the L-shaped cap flashing. See Figure A for help in locating the grooves. Use a dry-cut diamond blade mounted in a grinder or a circular saw. Wear goggles, hearing protection and a good two-strap dust mask.

Install the front cap flashing

Cut the front cap flashing 8 in. longer than the width of the chimney, then bend it around the front corners of the chimney.

Drive in the flange

Drive the flange on the cap flashing into the groove in the mortar joint. Use a block of wood to keep from denting the flashing.

Secure the flashing

Drill a 3/16-in. x 1-1/2 in.-deep hole through the metal and into the bricks on each corner of the chimney. Then press the expanding plastic anchors into the holes and pound in the protruding nail to expand the anchor and secure the flashing.

Continue to install cap flashing

Cut the side cap flashing to fit the angle of the roof so it overlaps each lower cap flashing at least 2 in. Pound the flashing into the grooves and fasten with the drive-in expanding anchors. Bend a piece of cap flashing to fit around the top corner of the chimney and add the cap flashing across the back of the chimney.

Seal the flashing with caulk

Now it’s time for chimney flashing sealant. Seal the cap flashing by caulking along the mortar joint with polyurethane caulk.

The next step is to mark and cut the grooves in the chimney’s mortar joints to accept the cap flashing. Start at the front of the chimney and mark the third mortar joint up from the roof. Extend this mark around both front corners about 6 in. Now mark the mortar joints on the sides of the chimney so the flashing steps up until you reach the back (Photo 11). Depending on the slope of the roof, each step will jump up one or two mortar joints and should lap over the previous piece of flashing at least 4 in. Mark straight across the back of the chimney to cover the saddle (Photo 12).

Cutting the groove in the mortar is easiest with a grinder and a diamond blade (Photo 7). A circular saw with an inexpensive abrasive masonry blade will also work. Wear goggles, a good dust mask and hearing protection. Cut close to the brick on the lower edge of the mortar joint. This way, the final caulk joint will be less visible. Cut the slots about 1 in. deep and 1/8 in. wide. Make them a few inches longer than you think is necessary, keeping in mind that each piece of cap flashing has to overlap the one below it by about 2 in.

The little backward bend on the short leg of the cap flashing acts as a barb to hold the flashing in until you’re ready to caulk. If the flashing is still loose, wedge it tight with a small plastic shim (sold as toilet shims in hardware stores and home centers) or secure it with expanding anchors as shown in Photo 10. Once all the cap flashings are in place, complete the job by filling the groove with polyurethane caulk (Photo 12).

Your new flashing will last longer with a coat of paint. But don’t paint the bare galvanized metal without cleaning it first with lacquer thinner. Another option is to order the slightly more expensive prepainted metal flashing.

The post Installing Chimney Flashing appeared first on Family Handyman.

Cupola Project Overview

When I decided to build a cupola to dress up my bland garage, I began by taking a walk. Most of the shed cupolas in my neighborhood are purely decorative. But the really old ones—those that sit atop garages that were once carriage houses—were built for both decoration and ventilation. In the days before roof and ridge vents, a cupola was the most effective way to ventilate a stable, barn or even a house.

Old or new, most of the cupolas I saw had some peeling paint or rotting wood. There were two typical trouble spots: the “saddle,” the part of the shed cupola that sits directly on the roof, and the “sill,” which rests on the saddle. To make my saddle maintenance-free, I wrapped it in aluminum flashing. To avoid problems at the sill, I beveled mine and left no flat areas where water could stand. I also used a vinyl brick mold, rather than wood, to frame the vents.

This article will show you how to build and install a shed cupola with these maintenance-saving features. The cupola’s structure is fairly simple, and all the dimensions, curves and angles are provided. The curved “witch’s hat” roof may look like the work of a master carpenter, but the entire cupola is an intermediate-level project. In fact, a novice with just a little carpentry experience can do a satisfactory job. After all, minor mistakes won’t be visible from the ground. But you will need several power tools (table saw, jigsaw, circular saw, drill and router) and at least three full days to build this shed cupola.

Note: A shed cupola mounted on a garage or shed will keep the building cooler in hot weather and drier during damp seasons. But for your home’s attic, a barn cupola alone doesn’t provide adequate ventilation: By itself, it doesn’t let enough air escape, nor does it provide a place for air to enter the attic. For effective ventilation, install soffit vents along with roof or ridge vents. Here’s how to install soffits that are maintenance-free.

Cupola Details

Most home centers and lumberyards carry everything you need to build this cupola. Here’s your shopping list:

• One 8-ft. cedar 4×4 (actual size is 3-1/2 x 3-1/2 in.)
• Three 10-ft. cedar 2x6s
• One 8-ft. 2×2 (1-1/2 x 1-1/2 in.)
• One 4×8 sheet of 3/8-in. plywood
• One 4×8 sheet of 3/4-in. pressure-treated plywood
• Four 8-ft. pieces of brick mold. Vinyl brick mold is maintenance-free, but it holds paint poorly and is usually available only in white. If you want a different color, you’ll have to use a wood brick mold.
• Four 12 x 12-in. vinyl or aluminum gable vents. The dimensions refer to the louvered area, not the vent’s frame. Our 12 x 12-in. vents measured 14-1/2 x 14-3/4 in. Metal vents, which are usually white, can be spray painted. For a lasting paint job, lightly sand the vents with 220-grit sandpaper first.
• One bundle of shingles. Home centers usually stock a few common colors and can special-order many others.
• One 10-ft. long roll of aluminum flashing. Painted flashing usually comes with one side white, the other dark brown. But you can lightly sand and spray paint it after it’s applied to the saddle. The width of the flashing you need depends on the pitch of your roof; the steeper your roof, the longer the sides of the saddle (Fig. A).
• Galvanized screws (1-1/4, 2 and 3 in.), 1/2-in. self-tapping sheet metal screws, 1-in. galvanized nails, 3/4-in. roofing nails, construction adhesive, acrylic caulk, roof cement (two tubes).

Note: Figure A can be downloaded and printed from Additional Information below.

Build the Vent Housing

Fig. A gives all the dimensions you’ll need to cut the parts for the housing. The following 5 photos show how the vent housing all goes together. Here are some pointers to help you along:

• Unless you have a sliding miter saw, use a circular saw to miter the ends of the 2x6s that make up the sill and soffit. A circular saw isn’t the best tool for making perfect miters, but small imperfections won’t be visible from the ground.
• We cut coves into three corners of each 4×4 post using a 1/2-in. radius cove router bit.
• Use a couple of pieces of duct tape to hold each vent in place as you drive screws through the vent’s frame and into the brick mold. To save yourself the trouble of drilling pilot holes, use self-tapping screws
• Fill the cracks in the sill and soffit and seal around the vents, brick mold and posts with acrylic latex caulk. Water that gets into the vent housing may lead to peeling paint. You can also use caulk and a putty knife to cover the screwheads in the brick mold.
• Acrylic latex paint is the best finish for the wood parts. But always prime cedar with an oil-based primer designed to seal in “tannins,” natural chemicals that bleed through latex paint, leaving brownish stains.

Prevent Ice Dams

Bevel the Sill and Soffit Pieces

Bevel 2x6s on a table saw. To cut the pieces that will form the sill of the barn cupola, bolt a 1×6 to the saw’s fence (to keep the workpiece from tilting), set the blade at 19 degrees and position the fence 3/4 in. from the blade. In order to bevel the soffit parts, set the blade at 45 degrees and the fence 4-3/4 in. from the blade. To make bevel cutting easier, we first cut 2x6s into 30-in. sections. When all eight pieces are beveled, sand them and then miter the ends at 45 degrees. Save the beveled cut-offs from the sill and rip about 1/4 in. off them. You’ll use them later to complete the slope of the sill.

Assemble the Sill and Soffit Frames

Assemble the sill and soffit frames by screwing temporary plywood scraps to the undersides of the 2x6s. Don’t cover up the corners—you’ll need to drive screws through them later. And make sure that the sill and soffit frames are perfectly square.

Add the Corner Posts

Screw the sill to the corner posts. Drill pilot holes and drive four 3-in. screws into each post, two on each side of the miter joint. The inner edge of each post should meet the inside corner of the sill.

Attach the Brick Mold Frames

Assemble brick mold frames between the posts. Pre-drill and countersink the holes before driving screws. You may have to draw the posts together or spread them apart to make the top piece of brick mold fit. Screw the bottom and sides of the frames to the posts and screw the top piece to the sides. Remember to fasten the beveled cut-offs to the sill with nails and construction adhesive before you install the brick mold. Fig. A shows the details.

Add the Vents to the Frames

Screw the vents to the backsides of the brick mold frames with 1/2-in. self-tapping sheet metal screws. Then attach the soffit to the corner posts just as you attached the sill.

Build the ‘Witch’s Cap’ Roof for the Shed Cupola

The curved roof is the most time-consuming part of this project. Here are some tips to make the job go smoothly:

• Use a jigsaw to cut the curved rafters. Don’t worry about making the curves perfect. The roof sheathing will smooth over bumps and dips.
• Mark the curves for the roof sheathing using a piece of the door stop and a bar clamp like you did for the rafters. The curve is gradual enough to be cut with a circular saw set to a cutting depth of about 1/2 in.
• The gaps between the pieces of sheathing at the ridges will allow the ridge cap shingles to curve gently over the ridges. If you place the sheathing pieces tightly together, you’ll get a sharp ridge and the shingles will crack when you bend them.
• Cut full-size shingles into 4-in. wide strips with a utility knife, using a framing square as a guide. Each of the three tabs on a full shingle is about 12 in. wide., so you’ll get nine small shingles from each full shingle.

Cut the Curved Rafters

Mark and cut one rafter, then use it as a template to mark the other three. To mark the curve, we put a section of plastic door stop molding in a bar clamp and tightened the clamp until the curve was right. Any thin piece of wood will work, but we used plastic because it doesn’t have knots or any other imperfections that lead to an inconsistent arch. Use a protractor to mark the correct angles at the ends of the rafters.

Fasten the Rafters Together

Join the rafters using a 6-1/2 in. piece of 2×2 as a hub. Screw the hub to two of the rafters, and fasten the other two by driving 3-in. screws through the rafters into the hub. Center the rafter assembly on a 26 x 26- in. piece of 3/8-in. plywood and drive 1-1/4 in. screws from below through the plywood and into the lower end of each rafter. Cut a hole in the plywood base so the roof can dry out if water gets in.

Screw the Sheathing to the Rafters

Fasten the 3/8-in. plywood to the rafters with 1-1/4 in. screws. Begin at the middle, driving the screws at an angle. There should be a gap (about 1/2 in. wide) between the pieces of sheathing. When the sheathing is done, center the roof on the vent housing and drive four screws up through the soffit into the roof’s base. You can remove the roof later to make it easier to carry. Important: Be sure to cut the roof sheathing so that the grain runs horizontally across each piece. Plywood bends more easily across the grain than with the grain.

Nail on the Roof Shingles

Shingle the roof beginning with a “starter strip,” a full shingle nailed to the roof upside down. The starter strip should overhang the plywood by about 3/4 in. With the starter strips in place, begin nailing on the 4-in. wide shingles. As with the plywood roof sheathing, leaving a gap between the shingles at the ridges. Glue the lower edge of each 4-in. tab down with a dab of roofing cement.

Add the Ridge Cap

Nail the ridge cap shingles over the ridges. Lay heavy beads of roofing cement along both sides of the ridge. To make the shingles conform to the curve of the ridge, we cut them 5 in. long. The first shingle on each ridge must be cut to match the corner of the roof. The corners of the stiff shingles may stand up at first, but a few hours in the hot sun will make them lie flat.

Cap the Roof with Flashing

Cap the roof by folding a 9 x 14-in. piece of flashing around the peak (see Fig. A). Hold the flashing in place while you mark it for cutting. When the cap is cut, fold it back into its pyramid shape, squeeze a large blob of roofing cement into it, press it onto the peak and drive one roofing nail through the side of the cap that has the overlapping seam.

Custom-Fit the Saddle

Construct a roof pitch gauge by laying two boards over the ridge of your roof and screwing them together.

Trace the Cut on the Saddle

Build the saddle from pressure-treated plywood, then mark two sides of the saddle with the slope of the roof using your roof pitch gauge. Place the point of the gauge on the center line about 4 in. from the top of the saddle and align the legs of the gauge with the inside edges of the saddle. Then cut out the V-shaped notch that will straddle the ridge of the roof. For the saddle’s construction, see Fig. A.

Flash the Saddle

After making the cutout, cover the exterior of the saddle with flashing. Wrap flashing tightly around the saddle and fasten down the seam with self-tapping screws. To crease flashing around corners, use a hammer and wood block. When the saddle is wrapped, fold down the overhanging flashing along the top and bottom edges. At the V-notch, cut the flashing, fold the flaps into the saddle and secure each flap temporarily with one screw. All of this is a lot easier if you have a helper. And be sure to wear gloves—or plan to visit the emergency room for stitches!

Screw the Saddle to the Roof

If your roof is too steep to comfortably walk and stand on, you’ll want to use roof bracket and/or a safety harness. And remember that rooftop safety also includes keeping away from power lines.

If you don’t want ventilation, simply mount the saddle, without doing anything to your roof. If your shed cupola will be used for ventilation, you’ll have to cut a hole in your roof. The hole should be about 16 in. wide at the ridge and extend 10 to 14 in. down from the ridge, depending on the pitch of your roof.

You can cut the hole with a circular saw or jigsaw, but be careful to cut only through your roof’s sheathing and not into any of the structural lumber underneath. Cutting through asphalt shingles will ruin a saw blade. So either use an old blade or first cut away the shingles with a utility knife.

Fasten the saddle to the roof with 2×2 cleats. First, lay a bead of roofing cement on the roof along each sloped side of the saddle. Then fold the four flaps down over the cement (cut them back if they extend over the roof hole). Drive 2-in. screws through the 2x2s into the saddle and 3-in. screws into the roof. Seal the gap at the ridge with roofing cement and caulk around the upper edge of the saddle. But leave the two low edges of the saddle unsealed so any water that gets in can drain out.

Attach the Vent Housing to the Saddle

The barn cupola isn’t terribly heavy: The three parts weigh about 80 lbs. altogether. But they are large and clumsy. If you’re not comfortable carrying them up a ladder, rent scaffolding. For a typical garage, you’ll need only one section of scaffolding. For a one-story house, you may need two sections.

Fasten the vent housing to the saddle by driving 3-in. screws through the sill into the 2×2 rails inside the saddle. Be sure the housing is centered on the saddle before you drive any screws.

Finally, Add the Cupola Roof

Once the barn cupola is on the roof, all that’s left is screwing the three parts together, caulking and touching up the paint. Drive 2-in. screws through the soffit into the roof’s plywood base. Then caulk over the screwheads and touch them up with paint. Now there’s something to crow about!

If you’ve investigated rustic “barn” doors, you’ve probably gotten sticker shock. But we can help. We’ll show you how to build a simple barn door.

Additional Information:

• Figure A: Cupola Details

The post How to Build a Cupola appeared first on Family Handyman.

What are ice dams?

If you live in a part of the country where snow accumulates on your roof in the winter, you likely know all about ice dams. Ice dams are ridges of ice that form along the edges of your roof during the freeze-melt-refreeze cycles and they prevent the melting snow from draining off the roof. Ice dams can cause water to back up and leak into your home, causing significant damage to your roof, walls, insulation and ceilings.

Does the ice dam pantyhose hack work?

While there are some tried-and-true methods for getting rid of ice dams, one popular method is a waste of time: salt-filled pantyhose won’t melt away your ice dams. This method, which is a total bust, involves filling pantyhose with salt or some kind of deicing tablets and then hoisting the filled pantyhose onto the edges of your roof. The filled pantyhose, in theory, should melt the ice underneath and help the melted water flow down the gutter and away from the roof.

Why is the ice dam pantyhose hack ineffective?

Heat cables are a sensible, simple and inexpensive solution for ice dams.

Some testers of the salt-filled pantyhose method say while the salt in the pantyhose can melt the ice, melting just doesn’t happen fast enough to make much of a difference. If you are already having a problem with ice dams causing damage, the last thing you want is a solution that takes too long.

Testers also noted that putting salt directly on the ice dam is far more effective than using salt stuffed into pantyhose, but it still doesn’t work fast enough.

In addition, the salt-filled pantyhose look pretty ridiculous up there on your roof and there’s a chance that the salt residue will discolor your roof—not something you’ll want to deal with in the spring.

If you do have an ice dam causing issues and don’t feel you can deal with it yourself, it’s best to call an ice-dam removal professional.

The post We Tried the Popular Ice Dam Pantyhose Hack—Here’s How It Works appeared first on Family Handyman.

As with most jobs, the right tools can save you a great deal of aggravation in the long run. You’ll need a full-body harness, a spray pump, and a nontoxic, noncorrosive roof-cleaning chemical. You may opt for a special roof rinsing tool, which can make the process easier, but aren’t absolutely required.

Look for a roof-cleaning product that’s as noncorrosive and plant-safe as possible. Chlorine bleach is a corrosive agent that can damage metal flashing and gutters, and the runoff harms plants. Those perfect peonies you planted? You definitely don’t want to dump gallons of bleach on them.

O’Brien suggests starting with the lowest water pressure, gentlest cleaning method, and mildest cleaning solution. “We’ve seen instances where a homeowner got carried away with the pressure washer and created a lot of damage,” she says.

Remember, you can always add a more aggressive cleaner or use more pressure, but once you damage the roof, you’ve created a bigger repair to deal with.

Proper Preparation

Aim to do the work on an overcast day with little or no wind. Those conditions allow the cleaning solution to soak deep into the algae colonies without evaporating too quickly. (And it will limit the risk of cleaning solution blowing back into your face.)

Repair any loose shingles or flashing before starting the cleaning process. Clean the gutters and downspouts to ensure they can drain freely.

Prepare the area by moving lawn furniture and covering vegetation. Even if you’ve selected a relatively plant-friendly cleaner, it still pays to take precautions. You don’t need to prepare the entire home perimeter, just the areas that will have runoff from the cleaning.

Pre-Wet the Roof

Before applying the cleaner, spray the roof with water. This will prevent the cleaner from drying out too quickly.

If your roof is low enough, and you have a good angle, you may be able to do this from the ground by using a garden hose and a spray nozzle. Spray up in the air and let the water fall like rain. (Never spray directly up into the roof, as that will push water underneath the shingles and can lead to roof leaks.)

Apply the Cleaner

Fill a spray pump with the cleaning solution, following the manufacturer’s instructions.

At this point, it’s time to break out that full-body harness. You will be walking on a wet roof and applying additional liquid to (already slick) mildew or algae spots. Even experienced roofers can slip in situations like that, and the inconvenience of working in a harness pales compared to a trip to the emergency room.

Once you’ve secured the harness, it’s time to get on the roof. Use the spray pump to generously apply cleaner onto the shingles. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions on how long to let it soak, before rinsing.

Saturate as much area as possible without letting the solution dry out. Depending on the weather, you may need to work in smaller sections.

Start at the bottom and work up to the peak so that water isn’t running underfoot. Spray until you see runoff. Respray any areas that dry out.

Rinse Away the Stain

Once the algae has been treated, you can remove it. If the staining is fairly light, you can use a regular garden hose and nozzle to rinse it off. Go slowly and use even strokes, overlapping slightly to avoid a zebra stripe effect.

For severely stained roofs, a garden nozzle won’t exert enough pressure to dislodge the stains. In that case, you’ll want to invest in a specialized rinsing tool. Drag the rinsing tool in a forward-and-back motion as if you’re vacuuming. That places the water jets at the correct angle to blast off the dead algae colonies.

Prevent the Stain from Reappearing

Simply removing the stain isn’t a permanent fix. You need to identify and address the source. Otherwise, you’ll be in a perpetual cycle of stain remediation.

The steps to take will depend on the cause of your specific stains. Rust stains might require flashing to be replaced or painted, while stains from tree debris may simply need you to cut back a limb or two.

In our example of algae stains, consider applying a stain-blocking solution. When applied shortly after you’ve cleaned the roof, it can significantly delay the return of the stain-causing algae.

The best preventative measure, says O’Brien, is to perform a regular (she recommends bi-annually) inspection to address staining before it happens.

FAQ’s

How often should I clean my roof to prevent stains from recurring?

It depends on the type of stain and your individual roof. But if you can’t rectify the stain’s source, expect to clean it every 3 – 5 years.

Can cleaning roof stains improve the longevity of my roof?

“Metal roofs and flat membrane roofs can withstand and actually require more frequent cleanings,” says O’Brien. “However, frequent or harsh cleaning on an asphalt shingle roof could result in granule loss and a shorter lifespan for your roof. Maintenance, more than cleaning, will most definitely improve the lifespan of your roof.”

About the Expert

Niki O’Brien is the operations manager at Custom Exteriors, an exterior remodeling company based in Berthoud, Colorado. She has been in the roof, siding, and window replacement for over a decade, performing roofing installations, replacements, and repairs all across Colorado.

The post How to Clean Roof Stains appeared first on Family Handyman.

How to Find Roof Leaks

Solution for a Small Leak

How to Fix Roof Vents

Roof Cement

No Chimney Cricket

Missing Kick-Out Flashing

Bad Chimney Flashing

Missing Gutter Apron

Vent Flashing Failure

Hail Damage

The post 10 Roof Problems and What to Do About Them appeared first on Family Handyman.

Roofing might seem daunting to the DIY enthusiast. There are so many terms, methods, and tools to understand. Among them, the term ‘birdsmouth’ stands out. The birdsmouth joint has been a mainstay in roofing for many years, and for a good reason. It offers a reliable solution for attaching rafters to wall plates. Let’s delve deeper into this fascinating topic.

What Exactly is a Birdsmouth?

A birdsmouth is a specialized cut in the bottom of a rafter. This cut allows the rafter to sit flatly and securely on a wall top plate, ensuring the stability of the roofing structure. Essentially, it’s like a little notch or “mouth” that helps the rafter to have a better grip and alignment.

Components of the Birdsmouth:

• Seat Cut: This is the horizontal part where the rafter rests on the wall. Think of it as a bird’s perch!
• Heel Cut: The vertical cut which aligns snugly with the exterior side of the wall. This ensures a close, tight fit.

Why is the Birdsmouth Essential?

The design of the birdsmouth ensures that the weight of the roof is evenly distributed over the walls. This even distribution prevents undue stress on any single point of the roof structure, ensuring longevity.

How to cut the Perfect Birdsmouth:

A crucial aspect to remember when cutting a birdsmouth is to ensure the structural integrity of the rafter. As a rule of thumb, never remove more than one-third of the depth of the rafter. Overcutting might compromise the strength and reliability of the rafter, leading to potential roofing problems in the future.

Securing the Rafters:

Once you’ve made your birdsmouth cut, you’ll need to secure the rafter to the wall top plate. This can be achieved in a couple of ways:

1. Toenails: These are driven through the birdsmouth directly into the wall top plate.
2. Metal Rafter Tie Down Plates: For those looking for additional security, these plates offer an extra layer of protection.

A Note on Manufactured Trusses:

Manufactured trusses are unique. Because of their engineering and design, they typically don’t require birdsmouth cuts. It’s also essential to avoid cutting birdsmouths into trusses. As engineered systems, they’re designed to bear loads in a specific way. Cutting into them can compromise their structural integrity.

Summing Up Birdsmouth:

The birdsmouth is a time-tested, ingenious solution in the roofing world. Whether you’re considering taking on a roofing project or just looking to understand the craftsmanship behind your home, it’s intriguing to learn about techniques like the birdsmouth. Such techniques remind us of the ingenuity and thoughtfulness that goes into building safe, reliable structures.

The post What is a Birdsmouth Cut and How to Cut It On a Rafter appeared first on Family Handyman.

Before you start tearing into your roof, review the three S’s to ensure that this is a job you want to do yourself.

Savings

You’ll save money by doing your own tear-off, but make sure the savings are worth the strain. The cost of professional roof tear-off varies with location, the style of the roof, and how many layers of shingles it has. Some roofers will give larger or smaller credits to the overall job price, while others only give slight reductions to cover themselves in the case of homeowners who don’t do a thorough job.

Scope

Part of understanding a project’s scope is understanding your own skills and capabilities. As O’Brien points out, “Your roof is high, and it requires ladder safety as well! Many people have physical limitations preventing them from doing this job safely.”

“For your typical homeowner, I’d only recommend tackling a single-story home with a relatively low-pitched roof,” says Consolo. “Anything more challenging, it’s worthwhile calling in the pros purely from a safety and logistical perspective.”

If you have a large roof, it may make sense to tear off and re-roof one section at a time, or it might be more sensible to tear off the entire roof at once.

Scheduling

If you’re having a contractor apply the new shingles, coordinate the tear-off so the new shingles will be installed right away. Keep the time between the tear-off and re-shingling to a minimum, and wait until clear weather is forecast. Although the underlayment should protect against water infiltration, the felt paper can easily tear or blow loose, making your home vulnerable to rain damage.

Lastly, remember that roofing work is extremely obvious from the street, so local inspectors will likely be aware of your work. Before removing a single shingle, ensure you’ve met any permit requirements and local building codes.

Protect Yourself

Every roofer I spoke to agreed that the number one priority for homeowners should be personal safety.

“As a minimum, invest in a good safety harness complete with hooks,” advises Consolo. “Even more so if you’re going to tackle a relatively steep roof. Make sure you have a support person around to help if needed.”

O’Brien agrees. “I think the main advice every homeowner needs to consider when removing shingles is the aspect of safety. A fall off your roof can absolutely kill you, so this is the most important step and should not be skipped.”

When tearing off a roof, take these safety precautions:

• Wear a safety harness.
  • Both Consolo and O’Brien emphasized how important this piece of equipment is.
  • These are available at safety equipment stores and most roofing and home centers.
  • O’Brien says homeowners may even find a ring already installed from the tether used during installation. If not, it should be installed into the home’s framing, and OSHA-rated tethering gear should be used.

• Set roof jacks and a 2×10 about 3 feet up from the roof edge.
  • These will catch material and act as a last safety measure against a fall.
  • If you don’t have roof jacks, O’Brien says a 2×4 mounted along the bottom of the roof can serve the same purpose in a pinch.
• Wear safety boots with thick soles.
  • Any nails that don’t come up with the shingles can poke through thin soles and into your foot.

Protect Your Property

You’ll need to protect your home as well as your body.

• Use tarps and light plywood to protect anything near the home’s foundation.
  • Many DIY roofers neglect this precaution and regret it. “If you put nothing down, you’ll damage your landscaping or even your siding,” says O’Brien.
  • I’ve used the tarps and plywood system to protect everything from plants and decks to koi ponds.

Select Your Equipment

Here are some of the tools you’ll need for a tear-off.

• A rental trash container or trailer.
  • Renting a trash container is recommended.
  • A 20-cubic yard container will handle most roofs, costing about $300 – $500.
  • Place it where you can easily throw old shingles directly into it from the roof.
  • If you opt to haul away debris in your own truck, check local laws about disposing of asphalt shingles.
• Garden fork or roofing shovel (sometimes called a “roof ripper”).
  • Garden forks slide under shingles easily, but both Consolo and O’Brien recommend the roofing shovel due to its angle, robustness, and ability to scoop up debris other than shingles.
  • They are available online and run $40 – $75
• Broom for sweeping up debris and used nails.
• Hammer or pry bar to remove remaining nails.

Strip the Roof, Starting at the Peak and Working Downward

This is the heart of the tear-off.

• Start the tear-off at the section farthest from the trash container.
• Standing at the peak, use a garden fork or roof shovel to tear away the ridge caps and the top courses of shingles.
  • “It’s a simple process of slide, lift, glide, and repeat,” says Consolo. “You slide the tool under the shingles and lift them, ideally removing some nails as well. Then glide along about a foot or so and repeat the process.”
• Work the fork or shovel under the shingles, prying them loose.
• Allow the debris to slide down to the roof edge.
• Remove shingles in a 2 to 3-foot wide section as you work down the roof.
• Not all the nails will come up with the shingles. You can pull them now, but most roofers come back at the end of the job and take care of them all at once.
• Watch for soft areas. The sheathing may be rotted, and you could break through.

Toss Trash from Roof to Container

As the old roofing material piles up at the roof edges, toss it into the trash container below.

• If you can’t get the trash container close to the house, throw the shingles onto a tarp on the ground.
• Dispose of the shingles before the pile gets too large and they slide off the roof.
• Remember, shingles are heavy!
  • If you’re peeling off two or more layers of shingles, even a small section will be heavy.
  • You may have to pull the shingles apart to make them light enough to carry.

Evaluate Existing Flashing

Many homeowners are tempted to reuse flashing around chimneys, skylights, and dormers. Sometimes it pays off to preserve and reuse difficult-to-replace types of flashing, but in the majority of cases it makes more sense to start fresh. Why sabotage a new roof because you skimped on a $5 piece of flashing?

Valley Flashing

• Valley flashing usually has the same life span as the shingles, so plan to replace it.
• Starting at the top of the valley, pry the metal edges loose.
• Continue working down the valley, lifting the flashing as you go.

Vent Flashing

• Pry flashing loose around vent pipes.
• Use a pry bar to avoid damaging the pipes.

Step Flashing

• Pull nails from any step flashing (flashing that’s interwoven with the shingles, where the roof abuts a wall) you want to save, bend it up slightly and pull out the shingles from underneath.

Repaired Flashing

• Heavily tarred areas usually signal a fix for bad flashing underneath.
• Replace all this flashing and check the decking for damage.

Clean off the Roof

Once a section has been completely stripped, go back and tidy it up.

• Pull out protruding nails.
• Use a large broom to sweep the roof deck clean.
• Watch your step!
  • The loose shingle granules make the sheathing slippery.
  • Watch for any nails you missed earlier and pull them.

Inspect the Sheathing

When the roof is clean and bare, inspect the sheathing for damage.

• Rotted areas and broken boards are the most common problems.
• Cut out and replace damaged sections as needed.
• Be sure to use new sheathing that’s the same thickness as the old.
• When removing a damaged section, center the cuts over the rafters so you can fasten the new sheathing properly.
• Keep an eye out for loose roof sheathing that only needs re-nailing.

Clean the Jobsite

Roofing tear-offs are messy, so you’ll need to clean your yard and driveway of debris.

• Before climbing off the roof, clean nails and shingle granules out of the gutters.
• Run a broom magnet over the yard to pick up stray nails.
  • Make several passes in different directions. Nails have a way of ending up in the lawn.

Tips from the Pros

I asked both experts for any parting tips they had for homeowners considering a roofing tear-off.

From Matthew Consolo:

For me, music is the answer. It helps you get into a rhythm. I can really lose myself doing a tear-off.

Being based in Florida, we’re both blessed and cursed with year-round sunshine. Working on a tear-off, we miscalculated the time it’d take and did not pack the sunblock. Needless to say, it was a scorcher, and we certainly got scorched.

From Niki O’Brien:

When removing your shingles, you may discover you have spaced roof decking. In most jurisdictions, this will have to be replaced with a solid surface decking before installation. It’s just a good thing to know when removing your shingles. It’s smart to have a plan in place in case you discover this and are forced to replace it for code reasons. It’s also a good idea to take a look at your insurance coverage BEFORE you start to see if you have “code upgrade” coverage. If you don’t, you will be on the hook for the price of the decking replacement.

About the Experts

• Matthew Consolo is the founder and CEO of Air Force Roofing. With over 15 years roofing experience, Matt sees Air Force Roofing as an opportunity to provide a better level of service for South Florida homeowners and businesses.

• Niki O’Brien with has been in the roofing industry for over a decade. Learn more about her at the Custom Exteriors site.

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