This technique for unclogging a toilet with hot water can be quite messy but proves surprisingly effective for tackling smaller clogs, particularly those caused by an overload of toilet paper. Reaching for a toilet plunger is undoubtedly the more straightforward solution. But you may find yourself in a situation where a plunger isn’t available or is proving ineffective against a mass of toilet paper. In such cases, if you have a bucket ready, you can attempt this more unconventional method. Just be prepared for a bit of splashing and cleanup afterward, as this approach can get a little chaotic.

How does it work?

How does hot water dislodge a clog in the toilet? The steady force of hot water acts like a plunger when poured from waist height.  I was honestly surprised at how well this method worked for a clogged toilet caused by too much toilet paper.

A professional plumber isn’t always necessary when you have a clog. However, if this method doesn’t clear the blockage and other attempts, like using a plunger or an auger, also fail, it’s best to call a plumber to remove the clog and restore your toilet’s functionality.

Fill a bucket

Get a clean, empty bucket and fill it with hot water in the sink or bathtub. Avoid boiling water, as it may crack the porcelain the toilet is made of.

Pour a steady stream of water

Pour water into the toilet bowl in a steady stream from about waist height. The force of the water can help dislodge the clog. Using hot water may break down certain materials and loosen some blockages. The falling water’s added force mimics a plunger’s action, creating a miniature waterfall effect. After waiting, try flushing the toilet to see if the clog has cleared. If it hasn’t, you may need to repeat the process.

Tip: Be sure to have towels ready in case of a mess!

FAQ

Is it okay to pour hot water in the toilet?

Warm or hot water can be poured into the toilet, but boiling water should be avoided as it may crack the porcelain.

Can you use hot water to unclog a toilet?

Yes, you can use hot water to unclog a toilet by filling a bucket with hot water (not boiling) and pouring it into the toilet from waist level. The force of the water may help dislodge the clog.

How do you unblock a badly blocked toilet fast?

Use a toilet auger or plunger; alternatively, mix baking soda and vinegar in the toilet bowl or pour hot water into the bowl at waist height.

What do you do if your toilet is clogged but you can’t see anything?

Try plunging it or unclogging the toilet with dish soap. To do this, pour approximately half a cup of dish soap into the toilet. Allow the soap to sit undisturbed for 15 to 30 minutes to penetrate the clog. As the soap sits, it will create a slippery solution that helps lubricate the pipes. After 15 to 30 minutes, flush the toilet.

The post How to Unclog a Toilet with Hot Water When You’re In a Bind appeared first on Family Handyman.

Gary Wentz, an editor for The Family Handyman, will show you how to glue PVC joints to get a fast, leak-free seal.

The post How to Glue and Join PVC Plastic Pipe appeared first on Family Handyman.

What Is ‘Brown Friday’?

Brown Friday is the day after Turkey Day, but it’s really an entire week of heightened activity for plumbers. And while the name sounds like a euphemism for clogged toilets, that’s only part of the story. Houses full of guests and a day of cooking and eating put a hefty strain on your pipes, leading to clogged sinks, broken disposals and, of course, clogged toilets.

According to data compiled by Yelp, searches for “emergency plumbing” skyrocketed by 65 percent in 2023. Searches for “24-hour plumbers” were higher on Thanksgiving Day than any other day during November 2023.

Most Common Causes of Plumbing Problems On Brown Friday

Fat and grease

You should never, ever dump any kinds of fats, oils or grease down the drain because it will lead to major clogs in your pipes. That’s Plumbing 101. When warmed grease hits a cold pipe, it solidifies and sticks. Over time, the grease builds up, plugs up the works and becomes incredibly difficult to remove. Some people aren’t aware of this, so unclogging the resulting mess tends to be a common problem plumbers encounter the day after.

Potato peels

Thanksgiving is certainly the day for mashed potatoes, but don’t be tempted to stuff the potato peels into your garbage disposal while you’re making everyone’s favorite side dish. It’s easy to assume that the blades of a garbage disposal will shred everything to ribbons to be safely washed down the drain. But the starchy skins tend to get clumpy in your pipes, which can cause further blockages.

Though carrots aren’t quite as popular for Thanksgiving cooking as potatoes, you shouldn’t flush carrot peelings down the disposal either. Trust me on that one; I’m speaking from personal experience. Rice and pasta can also gum up your drains.

There’s a reason potato peels are one of these 15 things that you should never put down your garbage disposal, so be aware of that when you start cooking.

Another easy solution is to compost your food waste. Composting is an environmentally-friendly way to dispose of those food scraps, and it’s easy to do. It’s great for the garden or your flower beds. And if you don’t have a garden or flowers, you can likely find a composting service in your community that works with local farmers.

Turkey

The skin and bones from Ben Franklin’s favorite bird do not mix well with your drains and garbage disposals either. They can cause blockages.

Clogged toilets

Remember, don’t try to flush anything down the toilet other than toilet paper and the natural waste it was made for.  Don’t assume your guests are wise to that, either. You can find ways to gently remind visitors that things like paper towels, hygiene products, etc., should not be flushed.

How To Prevent Plumbing Problems

The good news is that you can take a few simple preventative steps to avoid having to frantically search for an emergency plumber at 11 p.m. on Thanksgiving.

1. Use the disposal correctly. These things are handy, but they’re not made for bones, potato peels, cornhusks, carrots, onion skins, coffee grounds, pasta, etc.
2. Run cold water. Whenever you do use the disposal, make sure to run cold water while you feed stuff into it.
3. Avoid using the dishwasher. If your garbage disposal is clogged, avoid using the dishwasher.
4. Properly dispose of grease and oils. Use a container instead of pouring them down the drain, and throw them in the trash once they have solidified.
5. Wipe off dirty dishes and greasy pans before putting them into the dishwasher or washing them by hand in the sink.
6. Get a mesh strainer for your showers, tubs and bathroom sinks, especially if you’re hosting guests this year. That will help catch hair before it turns into a clog.
7. Think before you flush! Avoid flushing wipes, feminine products and other non-dissolvable products down the toilet.
8. Have a plunger on hand. Plunging a toilet is the easiest way to unclog it. If the clog is too stubborn for a plunger, you may need to snake the toilet or dial up a plumber to take of the problem.

The post Why the Day After Thanksgiving Is an Annual Plumbing Crisis appeared first on Family Handyman.

A malfunctioning TPR valve is as dangerous as one that isn’t there, and if you haven’t checked the one on your water heater recently, you really have no idea whether it’s working properly or not.

Water from your faucet that’s hot enough to scald you and unusually high water pressure are two signs of dangerous conditions in your water heater tank. If the TPR valve isn’t working, you’re courting disaster — maybe not an actual explosion, but definitely the possibility of a tank rupture.

Here’s how to check your TPR valve and, if necessary, replace it.

What Is a TPR Valve?

“The Temperature and Pressure Relief (TPR) valve on your water heater is a critical safety feature designed to release water if the temperature or pressure inside the tank gets too high,” explains Calgary plumber Asif Bux.

The TPR valve is a spring-loaded, brass valve located on the top of the tank or on the side near the top. If it has been installed according to code, it’s connected to a discharge pipe that runs along the side of the tank and terminates six inches above the floor. However, many TPR valves have been installed incorrectly and lack this pipe. Whether installed correctly or not, the TPR valve is there for one reason: to maintain the pressure inside the tank at a safe level.

How Does a TPR Valve Work?

A TPR valve is very simple: It’s in a cylindrical brass housing about four inches long with a 3/4-inch inlet and a perpendicular 3/4-inch outlet. The inlet is screwed directly into the tank, and the valve has an internal spring-loaded flapper designed to open when the tank pressure exceeds its preset limit. On the top of the housing is a metal lever that allows a homeowner or plumber to test it by manually opening it.

When the tank’s internal pressure exceeds its limit, the TPR valve opens, allowing steam and hot water to spray from the outlet until the tank pressure drops below the limit. If the valve has no discharge tube, the spray could injure anyone standing nearby, which is why the plumbing code requires the tube. It screws into the outlet and directs outflow directly at the floor, where it can’t hurt anyone.

How to Tell If Your TPR Valve Leaks

“If your TPR valve is leaking, it indicates that it is doing its job, but it also signals a potential issue that needs to be addressed,” says Bux. While a leaking TPR valve isn’t as dangerous as one that won’t open, it could well be a warning of dangerously high pressure in the tank. Here are some signs of a leaking valve:

• Water on the floor under the discharge tube.
• Water is dripping from the valve outlet. You’ll only see this if there’s no discharge tube.
• Water seeps around the connection between the valve and the tank.

If you see signs of a leak, the first thing to do, according to Mazzacone, is to check the home’s water pressure. You can do this by screwing a pressure gauge onto an outdoor faucet or one in the laundry room and opening the faucet all the way. If the pressure is above residential limits (usually from 60 to 80 psi), you may need to adjust the pressure-reducing valve (PRV) located near the water meter to lower it.

A valve will also leak if the tank water temperature is too high, and this is probably true if the water from the faucets is too hot to touch. Adjust the temperature control on the front of the tank to 120 to 140 degrees F to see if that stops the leak.

How to Replace a TPR Valve

Before assuming the valve needs to be replaced, Bux recommends testing it. Use the lever to manually open the valve and let water spray out (take appropriate safety precautions if there’s no discharge tube), then release the lever. Sometimes, debris lodges in the valve, preventing it from closing, and this should clear it out.

If the valve continues to leak, Mazzacone advises checking the expansion tank. “We often find that expansion tanks are either not installed to code or missing entirely, requiring installation or replacement to solve the issue.”

Whether or not the expansion tank is working properly, if your TPR valve is leaking, it should be replaced. Here’s how Bux does this simple procedure:

1. Let the water cool: Turn off the gas or electricity and let the tank’s water cool to a safe temperature.
2. Drain the tank: Drain a few gallons of water from the tank to lower the water level below the TPR valve. Use the drain valve at the bottom of the tank and a garden hose to direct the water to a safe location.
3. Remove the old valve: Use a wrench to unscrew the old TPR valve. Be cautious, as the valve might be corroded or tight.
4. Install the new valve: Wrap plumbing tape around the threads of the new TPR valve and screw it into place. Ensure it is securely tightened, but avoid over-tightening.
5. Restore power and water: Turn the water supply back on and restore power or gas to the water heater. Check for leaks around the new TPR valve.

FAQs

What If your TPR valve Is stuck?

You should test your TPR valve every six to 12 months or so by opening the lever and ensuring water sprays out. If nothing happens, the internal mechanism is probably stuck. In this case, immediately turn off the gas or electricity and replace the valve when the water cools.

What’s the difference between a TPR valve and a drain valve?

All water heater tanks have both valves. The TPR valve is at the top and opens automatically to release steam and lower pressure. The drain valve is at the bottom, and you open it manually to allow water out of the tank.

Do tankless water heaters have a TPR valve?

No. Tankless (on-demand) water heaters have no tank, so they don’t need a TPR valve to release pressure. They don’t have a drain valve, either.

Troubleshooting Common Water Heater Repairs

Learn how to troubleshoot and fix common water heater problems, from pilot light issues to leaks, with simple step-by-step solutions and maintenance tips.

• DIY Water Heater Testing and Repair
• How Long Do Water Heaters Last?
• How to Extend Your Water Heater’s Lifespan
• How to Dispose of a Water Heater
• Tankless Water Heater Myths You Need to Stop Believing
• Water Heater Leaking from Drain Valve? Here’s What to Do
• A Water Heater Vent Installed Like This Can Have Lethal Consequences
• How to Fix a Water Heater Pilot Light
• How to Replace a Water Heater Thermocouple
• What to Do If Your Water Heater Has a Defective Dip Tube
• Water Heater Anode Rod Replacement

About the Experts

• Robert Mazzacone is a third-generation licensed master plumber and owner of Mazzacone Plumbing & Heating, based in Westchester County, NY.
• Asif Bux is the service manager of Comfort Union, a plumbing, electrical and HVAC company located in Calgary, AB.

The post Is Your Water Heater’s TPR Valve Leaking? Here’s What to Do appeared first on Family Handyman.

Clogged Toilet

“A clog in the toilet trap or drainpipe is the most common reason a toilet won’t flush,” says Bux. “This can be due to excessive toilet paper, foreign objects, or waste buildup.” Unfortunately, when this happens, there’s a danger of an overflow if you keep flushing, so the toilet is effectively out of service until the clog goes away.

Fixes to try

• Grab a plunger. Not a flat-bottomed sink plunger, but a bell-shaped toilet plunger. Bux recommends the Korky Beehive Max Plunger, but any brand will do. You should keep one in the bathroom, because plumbers agree it will clear most toilet clogs if you use it properly.
• Pour in some dish soap. The soap may provide enough lubrication to coax the clog out of the way. Plunge after you pour it in.
• Use a snake. “A toilet auger (also known as a closet auger) like the RIDGID K-6 Toilet Auger can help reach and break up deeper clogs,” says Bux.
• Try an enzymatic clog buster. A non-corrosive drain cleaner like Green Gobbler Toilet Bowl Clog Remover may work, but it will take time, so this isn’t an instant solution. Bux cautions to use it sparingly to avoid damaging the plumbing. Whatever you do, stay away from conventional corrosive drain cleaners, which often cause more problems than they solve.
• Pull the toilet and manually clear the clog if nothing else works.

Misadjusted Float

In a gravity-fed toilet, the float rides on the water’s surface and shuts off the fill valve when the water level reaches the predetermined height. If the float isn’t properly adjusted, it can shut off the valve before the tank has enough water for a flush.

Fixes to try

• Adjust the float arm. If your toilet has a ball float, it’s connected to the fill valve by a rod with a slight bend. Rotate the rod to make the bend face the top of the tank. If the rod is metal and has no bend, go ahead and bend it yourself.
• Shorten the float arm. Turn the rod or the ball clockwise through several rotations to shorten the rod. It must rise higher to develop enough force to shut off the valve.
• Use the adjustment screw. If your toilet has a cup float that rides up and down on the fill valve tube, use a screwdriver to turn the screw on top of the float clockwise. This shortens the rod connected to the fill valve and raises the water level.

Misadjusted or Disconnected Chain

Vandepoll says that a broken or fallen-off lift chain is a common problem. You can recognize this issue immediately because you won’t feel any resistance when you press the flush valve, and nothing will happen.

Fixes to try

First, you must Turn off the toilet shutoff valve, remove the tank lid and manually lift the flapper or canister to empty the tank’s contents into the bowl.

• Reconnect the chain if it has fallen off.
• Shorten the chain if it’s too long. Disengage it from the hook on the flush lever and reconnect it a few links closer to the flapper. Turn on the water, test the flush and repeat the process if the chain is still too long.

Leaky Flapper

“On toilets with flappers,” says Vandepoll, “the flapper may be letting water slip past, either due to wear and tear or just an improper fit or adjustment.” Toilets with this problem usually experience “phantom flushing” as the fill valve cycles on repeatedly to replace the water lost through the flapper. You may also see swirling water or bubbles in the tank.

Fixes to try

• Hold the flapper down. For a quick fix, hold the flapper (or canister) down until the tank fills with enough water for a flush. Once you’ve done this, turn off the shutoff valve to avoid wasting water until you have time to replace the flapper.
• Replace the flapper. If the flapper won’t seal, it’s time to replace it. (Most toilets use a standard 2-in. flapper, but some larger ones will use a 3-in. version. If you’re unsure of what size, you can get adjustable Super Flapper, which can be adapted to fit either size.
• Replace the canister seal. If your toilet has a leaking canister instead of a flapper, you simply have to replace the rubber gasket on the bottom of the canister — not the whole canister.

Malfunctioning Fill Valve

The cylindrical fill valve (most modern ones are plastic) opens to let water into the tank and closes to stop the flow according to instructions from the float. It “may get stuck partway up due to debris in the mechanism, incorrect adjustment or just wear and tear,” maintains Vandepoll, and when that happens, the tank may not fill with enough water for a flush.

Fixes to try

• Jiggle the lever attached to the float. This may dislodge whatever is preventing the valve from opening.
• Flush the valve. Turn off the water, remove the cap (some twist off and some have screws) and turn the water back on again to clear out debris.
• Adjust the valve. Use a screwdriver to turn the adjustment screw on the top of the valve counterclockwise. This should increase the flow.
• Replace the fill valve if you can’t get it to work, or it malfunctions repeatedly. Fill valves are inexpensive (around $15), and the procedure is quick and easy.

The Refill Tube Has Popped Out

Sometimes, the refill tube, which is connected to the fill valve, isn’t properly aimed toward the center of the overflow tube. If so, all the water from the fill valve goes directly into the bowl and not the tank, so the toilet won’t flush.

Fixes to try

• Reposition the refill tube. It’s made of flexible plastic, so you can bend it until you can get the end inside the refill tube. You can do this without turning off the water.
• Clamp it in place. Some overflow tubes have molded inlets to hold the refill tube in place, while others have special clamps. You’ll usually see the clamp still attached to the overflow tube. If you don’t clamp the refill tube, it’ll probably stay in place for a while, but you may have to fix it again in a few weeks.

Blocked Rim Jets or Siphon Jet

Rim jets are small holes under the toilet bowl’s rim that release water during a flush. They can get blocked with mineral deposits or debris, reducing flushing power and eventually resulting in impartial flushes.

Fixes to try

• Clean them. Bux’s advice: “Use a small brush or a wire hanger to clean the rim jets.” Mineral deposits are tough to remove, so you’ll need a very stiff brush, or even a wire brush. Don’t worry about scratches; no one is ever going to poke their head in there to see them.
• Dissolve them. “Pour household vinegar into the overflow tube and let it sit for a few hours before flushing,” says Bux. Vinegar is an acid that dissolves mineral deposits, and it’s safe to flush down the toilet, even if you’re on a septic system.

Sewer Blockage

A few problems are so gnarly that you won’t be able to fix them before going to work, and this is one of them. Fortunately, sewer obstructions take time to develop, so you should have plenty of warning. Flushing will become progressively more sluggish over a period of days or weeks, and the best time to address this problem is before the toilet stops flushing altogether.

Fixes to try

• Try clearing the obstruction yourself. Locate the clean-out nearest the sewer inlet, which may be in the basement or just outside the house. Use a wrench to remove the cap, insert a sewer auger (a long, heavy-duty snake that you can rent) and try to clear the obstruction. You might get lucky.
• Call a plumber. You won’t have any luck if the obstruction is out of reach or if it’s caused by tree roots or something else an augur can’t clear. In this case, you need a plumber with cameras to diagnose the blockage and heavy-duty equipment like water jets to clear it.

Blocked Vents

According to Vandepoll: “Your plumbing system relies on proper venting to equalize pressure and keep everything running correctly. Vent pipes can get clogged or damaged by things like bird nests, insect nests, leaves, or ice, and this can cause poor water flow or fluctuating water levels in the toilet.”

Vent blockages appear similar to sewer blockages, but Vandepoll points out a key difference: “Normally a vent pipe blockage will cause issues with other fixtures as well, and will not just appear as a toilet problem.” The bathroom sink or shower may drain slowly, and you may hear gurgling sounds from these drains when you flush the toilet.

Fixes to try

• Clear the vent stack. Go on the roof (if it’s safe — otherwise, have a pro do this) and clear the opening of the main vent stack. Shoot a jet of water from a garden hose into the vent opening to clear any obstructions you can’t see. Don’t worry…the water will go into the sewer.
• Melt the ice. It’s common for vent stacks to ice over in the winter, and you must clear the ice. Rather than risking your life walking on an icy roof, go into the attic and use a hair dryer to heat the portion of the stack just below the roofline and melt the ice inside.
• Upgrade the vent. If icing over is a frequent problem, it’s probably because the stack is undersized. A three-inch pipe is recommended in freezing climates, so if yours is only two inches, have a plumber upgrade it.

Septic System Issues

Homes on septic systems have a special set of potential problems. The inlet to the septic tank may have a screen that can clog, the tank itself may be full, or the whole system may be vulnerable to flooding and backing up when it rains heavily. All of these problems — and more serious ones like a clogged drain field or a malfunctioning transfer pump — can prevent a toilet from flushing.

Fixes to try

• Get the tank pumped. Even if you aren’t having problems, you should do this every three to five years. During this process, the septic pros should be able to identify and fix problems like blocked screens.
• Check the transfer pump. When your drain field is on higher ground than the tank, you need a transfer pump in the tank. If it stops working, check the breaker because it may have tripped (this happened in a house I used to own). Otherwise, have the pump professionally evaluated and replace it if necessary.
• Have a backup plan. If your system is prone to flooding or freezing, you may simply have to stop flushing the toilet until outdoor conditions improve. If so, consider installing a waterless toilet, such as a composting toilet, in an auxiliary bathroom that you can use in emergencies.

About the Experts

Hendrik Vandepoll is the co-owner and service manager of Service Force Plumbing, located in Rockville, MD. He has over 30 years of experience in the plumbing trade.

Asif Bux is the owner and service manager of Comfort Union, a family-owned plumbing, HVAC and electrical service located in Calgary, AB.

The post Toilet Won’t Flush? These Are the Most Likely Reasons and How to Fix It appeared first on Family Handyman.

Cooking oil. It’s a little trick we’ve learned over the years at Family Handyman by chatting with plumbers and homeowners.

How To Get Rid of Smelly Drains

For starters, if the water in your p-trap has evaporated, pour a bucket of water down the drain to refill the trap. Then add the oil, about a teaspoon for each inch of the pipe’s diameter.

The floating oil forms a seal over the water and prevents evaporation—without raising your cholesterol.

The post Why You Should Be Using Oil in Your Floor Drains appeared first on Family Handyman.

What is hard water, you ask? Well, in the simplest terms, it’s water with a high mineral content, but there’s a more precise definition. According to Kelly Russum, a plumber who serves California’s Coachella Valley, water analysts measure hardness in GPG (grains per gallon), where one grain is 64.8 mg. of calcium. “Soft water has GPG lower than 1, and hard water is considered when GPG is 7 or more.” In other words, a gallon of hard water contains half a gram of minerals — usually more.

Water with a high mineral content causes all sorts of problems, including:

• Mineral stains on bathroom fixtures, faucets and other appliances;
• Sediment buildup in water heater tanks;
• Blockages in faucets and plumbing pipes;
• Dry hair, itchy skin and reduced effectiveness of soap.
• Foul-tasting and discolored drinking water. This is primarily caused by iron, which is one of the minerals commonly found in hard water.

You don’t have to get your water from a well to have hard water. Community water in many municipalities is also hard enough to cause mineral stains and make showering unpleasant.

The solution is to install a water softener. Our experts explain what that is, what different types are available and what’s involved with installation and maintenance.

What Is a Water Softener?

A water softener is basically a filter, but unlike one that removes chlorine, pesticides and heavy metals, it’s designed to remove minerals like calcium, magnesium and iron from the water supply. A typical system consists of a cylindrical inflow tank ranging in diameter from eight to 14 inches and in height from 44 to 65 inches and a separate brine tank containing a solution of sodium chloride or potassium chloride.

“There are whole-house water softeners and under-counter water softeners,” advises South Carolina-based plumber Justin Cornforth. “I recommend opting for whole-house systems because they ensure that all appliances in your home and plumbing systems receive softened water.”

How Does a Water Softener Work?

Josh Rubin, a Certified Restorer from Phoenix, AZ, explains the operation of the salt-ion water softener: “It works by removing minerals, primarily calcium and magnesium, from hard water through a process called ion exchange. Put simply, that’s a way to remove and replace the minerals that cause hard water.”

A water softener tank contains a large quantity of resin beads, forming the bed through which water flows into the building. The beads are charged with sodium or potassium ions supplied from the brine tank, and as hard water passes through, the mineral ions are electrically attracted to the beads and displace the sodium or potassium ions, which take their place in the water. “In this process,” says Rudin, “salt is liberated into the water while calcium and magnesium are pulled out.”

The beads eventually become saturated, so the system has to complete a regeneration cycle every week or so. In this cycle, the brine solution is flushed through the tank to restore the salt ions and wash the accumulated minerals down the drain. Most systems do this automatically.

Types of Water Softener Systems

You can choose from one of three types of water-softening systems:

• Salt-based: This is the type described above. “They are the most common and effective type for significant hard water issues,” according to Asif Bux, a plumber from Calgary, Alberta.
• Salt-free: These systems, according to Russum, use potassium chloride instead of sodium, acting as water conditioners rather than removing minerals. “People concerned about sodium consumption may prefer these types of softeners,” he advises.
• Reverse osmosis: Cornforth explains, “Reverse osmosis water softeners are a good option for homes where you want to remove a wide range of contaminants such as PFAs, TDS, chlorine, heavy metals, VOCs, odors, rust, sediment and more.” They are generally point-of-use rather than whole-house systems.

Advantages of Having a Water Softener

All our experts agree with Russum, who says that soft water will positively affect your plumbing system. “It won’t leave mineral deposits in your pipes, and as a result, you can also save money on your energy bills because, with scale-free pipes, your water heater won’t have to work as hard.” Some other benefits include:

• Longer-lasting home appliances;
• Elimination of hard-to-clean minerals stains;
• Improved soap efficiency;
• Softer skin and hair.

Downsides of Having a Water Softener

Rudin and Bux point out that extra maintenance and installation costs are downsides to a water softener system. They also cite the potential dangers of elevated salt content in soft water for people with certain health issues and the negative environmental consequences of disposing of brine wastewater. It’s worth noting that you can mitigate these problems by choosing a system that uses potassium instead of sodium.

Russum also flags elevated salt content as a potential problem and adds two more: “The process used to soften water also makes it more volatile, which means it collects more unwanted elements from your pipes. These elements can include lead, making it potentially more dangerous. A water softener wastes up to 120 gallons of water for every 1,000 gallons, so you’ll notice a noticeable increase in your water bill.”

How to Choose a Water Softener

The two most important considerations in choosing a water softener system are the hardness level of your water and the amount of water you use. According to the Department of Energy, weekly grain capacities (number of grains the unit can handle before regeneration) of 16,000 to 32,000 are suitable for small houses, apartments and RVs, while medium to large households would need a grain capacity from 40,000 to 100,000. Many manufacturers and retail sites offer charts that allow you to choose the correct size based on your usage and the hardness of your water (which you can determine by sending a water sample to a lab for testing).

How To Install a Water Softener

A typical water softener consists of two tanks: the softener tank that contains the resin beads and the brine tank. Here’s a quick rundown of the installation process:

1. Install a bypass loop in the building’s water supply. One leg of the loop directs water into the tank, and the other one directs the outflow back into the water supply.
2. Connect the brine tank to the softener tank. You usually do this with plastic tubing that is supplied with the unit.
3. Install a drain pipe from the brine tank to the sewer. If it’s close enough, plumbers often make this connection at the washing machine standpipe.
4. Wire the controller that regulates automatic regeneration into the building’s electrical system. This often involves just plugging it into a standard receptacle.

How Much Does it Cost to Install a Water Softener System?

“The most basic, entry-level softening systems start around $500 for just the components themselves, not including installation,” says Rudin. “It’s possible you can get it done for less than this, but it would require massive deal hunting — and possibly a number of failed softening systems — before success.”

Bux and Cornforth put a high end on equipment costs between $2,500 and $3,000, and when you factor in labor, Russum warns the maximum cost can be as high as $11,000. However, Russum warns that it’s almost impossible to answer this question definitively.

Can You Install a Water Softener Yourself?

If you have the plumbing skills, you can probably install an under-counter water softener yourself, but trying to install a whole-house system is a different matter. “It’s not an easy task, and if you don’t know exactly what you are doing, it’s certainly possible to cause damage in the process of installation,” says Rudin. Russum adds that some regions may require a licensed plumber to perform the installation.

How Often to Add Salt to Your Water Softener

Some systems have low-salt indicators that alert you when it’s time to add salt. In the absence of an indicator, you need to check the salt yourself and add more when it falls below the required level. Bux recommends doing this every four to six weeks.

Should I Use Salt Pellets or Crystals?

Bux recommends pellets. They cost more than crystals, but they don’t have any additives, which means purer water overall. Moreover, they don’t dissolve as quickly, so they last longer in households with particularly hard water. However, check the requirements for your system before purchasing salt. Cornforth warns that using the wrong type of salt that can cause clogging and inefficient operation.

About the Experts

• Kelly Russum founded KC’s 23 ½ Hour Plumbing in 1978. He has been the go-to plumber for countless Coachella Valley residents ever since.
• Justin Cornforth is the owner of Ace Plumbing, Electric, Heating & Air, based in Anderson, SC. It’s a family-owned company founded in 2017.
• Josh Rudin is a Certified Restorer and the owner of ASAP Restoration, LLC, serving Phoenix, AZ and surrounding areas.
• Asif Bux is the owner and service manager of Comfort Union, a licensed HVAC, Plumbing and Electrical company located in Calgary, Alberta

Sources

• Energy.gov: Purchasing and Maintaining A Water Softener

The post How Does a Water Softener Work? All Your Questions, Answered appeared first on Family Handyman.

This is absolutely not a plumbing question that you want to learn the answer to the hard way. So, we spoke to Destry Thompson and Jessie Cannizzaro, both experienced plumbers, to answer this question for you; read on to see what they had to say.

Can You Put Coffee Grounds Down a Garbage Disposal?

“The question isn’t ‘can you put coffee grounds down a garbage disposal’ but rather ‘should you put them down the disposal,'” Cannizzaro jokes. She explains that fats-be they from meats, dairy, cooking oil, or something else can coat your pipes. These coatings get thick and build up into large deposits. When coffee grounds go down the drain, they can get stuck in these fat deposits. This is the beginning of the problem.

Thompson adds that “coffee grounds don’t dissolve in water, so they can block up your plumbing. This might make your garbage disposal work less effectively and could lead to big problems later on.”  These trapped grounds are laying the groundwork for a major plumbing issue down the road.

Will Coffee Grounds Clog My Sink?

Coffee grounds are small, so it seems like they shouldn’t create clogs. But that’s an incorrect assumption. Thompson explains that “when coffee grounds go down the drain, they mix with other stuff like grease and soap scum, creating a big lump that eventually blocks the drain.”

Unlike with hair clogs down your bathtub, snaking your drain often isn’t enough to clear these clogs. Cannizzaro says that the snake will often bore through the fat deposits, creating a bit of a hole that water can drain through. But when you retract it, the loosened pieces will often get pulled back in and keep the sink gummed up. You may have shifted the clog enough to temporarily speed up your drain, but it’s still there— and the problem will quickly return.

Will Coffee Grounds Make My Sink Smell?

If you’re a coffee lover, you might think that the lingering smell in your drain is a pleasant idea. After all, who doesn’t love waking up to the comforting scent of coffee in the kitchen? But in this instance, you’d be wrong. Thompson cautions, “As [coffee grounds] build up in the pipes, they can trap other food bits and gunk…which can quickly create bad smells in your sink.”

Cannizzaro agrees; she stresses that the way the grounds get trapped in fat deposits is a perfect setup for them to catch other food particles. And the longer this goes on, the worse the clog will be, and the more trapped debris will rot. Soon, you’ll have a very smelly and expensive problem on your hands. As mentioned above, snakes aren’t enough to clear these clogs; you’ll most likely have to call in the professionals.

So there you have it; just because coffee grounds will fit down a drain does not mean they belong down there. Save yourself the hassle-and the money-and compost your used grounds or throw them away. Keep them far away from your drains!

About the Experts

• Jessie Cannizzaro is a plumber and the owner of Milestone Plumbing.
• Destry Thompson is a plumber and General Manager with John Stevenson Plumbing.

The post Can You Put Coffee Grounds Down a Garbage Disposal? appeared first on Family Handyman.

I recently opted for CPVC during a recent home project instead of copper, my traditional choice. CPVC was especially useful in tight spaces where soldering was difficult or dangerous, and it saved on project costs.

Read on to learn about the properties, uses and advantages of CPVC pipe with three licensed plumbers — Mitch Smedley from Smedley Plumbing, Claude Taylor from YouTube’s “How to Plumbing,” and David Carey from Worcester Technical High School.

What Is CPVC Pipe?

CVPC pipe is a hard, thermoplastic plumbing pipe. “CPVC piping is similar to PVC piping but also very different,” Smedley says. CPVC goes through an additional chlorinating process that increases its flexibility and working temperature range.

What Is CPVC Pipe Used For?

CPVC pipe is ideal for water supply lines. Taylor says it’s best “specifically hot water applications”  but it can also be used for drain lines.

CPVC pipe pros and cons

Pros:

• Easy to install: It’s easy to cut and assemble using glue to connect fittings. You get high-quality results without the copper soldering chore. “You do not need a flame, so it is safer,” Carey says.
• Durable: Harsh water won’t harm the material, unlike copper, which will erode from acidic water. “[It] will not rust out,” Carey says. CPVC pipe tubing and fittings are perfect for areas of the country with aggressive water that eats away at copper pipes.
• Heat and pressure-resistant: CPVC is capable of carrying 200-degree water at 100 psi (water in the average home is about 125 degrees at 50 psi).
• Inexpensive: CPVC costs .50 to $1 per sq. ft., making it one of the cheapest plumbing pipe options.

Cons:

• Needs more support: Because of its flexibility (which can be an asset), you’ll need to support it more often than copper or galvanized steel — every 32 to 36 inches.
• More brittle than metal pipes: CPVC is less tough than copper or galvanized steel. Take care not to strike it with a hammer, and be sure to use steel nail plates in wall framing if a nail or screw puncture is a possibility.
• Expands and contracts more than copper tubing: This is especially true in hot water lines. A 10-foot piece of tubing can grow in length by as much as 1/2 in.
• Requires slow-drying adhesive: “It takes eight hours for the glue to dry in some situations,” Carey says.

What’s the Difference Between CPVC and PVC Pipe?

There are several differences between CPVC and PVC pipes.

Applications

“PVC is only allowed to be used in drain, waste and vent plumbing applications,” Smedley says. It is not approved for use as a water supply line, whereas CPVC is primarily used in water delivery applications.

Heat tolerance

PVC starts to melt at 140 degrees Fahrenheit, while CPVC can tolerate hot water up to 200 degrees Fahrenheit.

Sizing

PVC and CPVC have different sizing measurements. “PVC will follow iron pipe sizing (IPS) whereas CPVC will follow Copper Tube Sizing (CTS),” Smedley says.

CVC or CPVC: Which Is Better?

It really depends on the application. “They both are great but for their own purposes,” Smedley says.

PVC is preferred for drain lines, as it is not as sensitive to certain chemicals as CPVC. CPVC is great for plumbing supply lines, especially hot water.

How To Tell if a Pipe Is PVC or CPVC

You can quickly distinguish between the light beige color of CPVC pipe and the bright white of PVC. If you’re unsure, look for the printing on the side of the pipe.

What Other Types of Pipes Are in Use Today?

There are a few other plumbing pipe options available.

PEX

Cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) is a flexible plastic piping system used for cold and hot water supply lines. It is valued for being inexpensive, long-lasting and easy to install. It also requires fewer joints for a lower risk of leaks. However, PEX is not UV resistant and requires more support at fixtures due to its flexibility.

Copper

Copper plumbing pipes are long-lasting metal pipes that can withstand high temperatures. Copper pipes can be used for supply and drain lines.

However, it’s expensive, heavy and requires soldering for installation. “And if a copper water pipe freezes, the pipe will split,” Carey adds.

Polyethylene (PE)

PE is durable yet flexible plastic tubing typically used in cold water applications, such as supply lines, wells and irrigation systems. It is valued for its chemical resistance and ease of installation.

However, it cannot withstand high water temperatures.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can you connect PVC and CPVC pipe?

“Mixing CPVC and PVC is not recommended,” Taylor says, especially with glue. Each material has a corresponding glue that will not work well on the other type.

If you have to join the two, Smedley recommends using adapters. “[Glue] a male adapter on one and a female adapter on the other,” he says. “Then thread them together using Teflon tape or pipe joint compound.”

Which pipe best for plumbing?

Which pipe is better for plumbing really depends on a few factors.

If money is no object, and you value time-tested durability, copper pipe is your best choice. If you’re on a tight budget and don’t want to solder pipes, CPVC is your best option. Carey prefers to use PEX because it doesn’t rust or corrode, and “if PEX freezes, it will just expand and not split.” Weigh the pros and cons of each type to fit your unique situation.

What kind of pipe is the cheapest?

“PEX and CPVC are the cheapest,” Carey says, with CPVC slightly cheaper than PEX.

How long do PVC and CPVC pipes last?

Expect a lifespan of 50 to 70 years. “They each should last a very long time as long as they aren’t damaged from freezing or UV rays,” Smedley says.

About the Experts

• Claude Taylor is a Master Plumber in Texas with over 30 years of residential and commercial experience. He is also the host of “How to Plumbing” on YouTube with over 50K subscribers.
• David Carey is a Master Plumber in Massachusetts with over 30 years of plumbing experience. He is also Department Head of Worcester Technical School‘s plumbing program in Worcester, Massachusetts.
• Mitch Smedley is a Master Plumber and owner of Smedley Plumbing in Kansas City, Missouri. He has 15 years of industry experience and hosts a YouTube channel of plumbing information and how-to’s.

The post What Is CPVC Pipe? Here’s Everything to Know appeared first on Family Handyman.

Some folks refer to condensation as sweating, which creates confusion for plumbers who use that term to refer to soldering copper pipes. But you get the idea. Water condensing on the outside of pipes makes it look like they are sweating, and while this usually happens to cold water pipes, HVAC expert Keith Wortsmith wants you to know it can also happen to hot water pipes. Ahead, learn why pipes sweat and what you can do to prevent it.

What Causes Condensation on Cold Water Pipes?

Condensation forms on a surface because there’s moisture in the air and a temperature differential at the surface.

I grew up in a house with single-pane windows, and on cold winter days, water droplets formed on the windows and sometimes even turned to ice. This happened because cold air in the vicinity of the window couldn’t hold as much moisture as the warmer air in the rest of the house, and some of it precipitated out.

The same thing happens at the surface of a cold water pipe. The amount of condensation increases as the temperature differential between the pipe and the room increases — you get more condensation on a cold pipe in a very warm room than you do on a cold pipe in a cold room. Condensation also increases with increasing room humidity.

What’s the Difference Between Condensation and ‘Sweating’ Pipes?

As long as you aren’t talking about soldering copper pipes, there’s no difference between pipe condensation and sweating pipes. As moisture condenses onto a metal pipe, it forms small droplets that gradually become bigger ones and eventually begin dripping. It can look like the water is coming from inside the pipe and that it is sweating, but it isn’t. The water is coming from the surrounding air.

That’s assuming, of course, that the pipe isn’t leaking.

How to Tell the Difference Between Condensation and a Leaky Pipe

Very old copper pipes in a habitually humid environment can corrode and develop pinhole leaks, says mitigation specialist Bethany Uribe, and when water starts seeping through these holes, then you can truly say that the pipe is sweating. Because the holes are small, water doesn’t spray, but forms droplets on the pipe that closely resemble condensation. You can tell the difference because the droplets are localized rather than covering the entire pipe, and they actively drip.

Water can also seep from screw joints that aren’t tight enough and solder joints that have been weakened by pipe vibrations and movements. Even though water may run along the pipe for some distance before it begins dripping, I have found that pinpointing a leaky joint is usually fairly easy. Repairing it, on the other hand, isn’t always so easy: You usually have to drain the water, disassemble the joint and re-do it.

Risks of Pipe Condensation

Every expert I interviewed, including those I don’t mention here, agreed on the four main risks of pipe condensation mentioned by Bux:

• Mold: Condensation provides an ideal environment for mold and mildew growth, which can lead to health issues like respiratory problems and allergies.
• Structural damage: Persistent condensation can lead to water damage in walls, floors, and ceilings, potentially compromising structural integrity.
• Pipe corrosion: Over time, condensation can lead to the corrosion of metal pipes, increasing the risk of leaks and bursts.
• Reduced energy efficiency: Condensation can reduce the efficiency of HVAC systems, leading to higher energy bills.

In addition, Uribe warns that condensation can promote freezing and bursting pipes in sub-zero environments. This happens because of the cooling effect of evaporation, which makes the pipes colder than they would otherwise be. Wortsmith adds that condensation is a warning of another problem in your home: poor ventilation.

How To Prevent Condensation on Cold Water Pipes

Again, I found consensus among experts regarding ways to prevent condensation.

• Insulate the pipes: Insulation acts as a barrier, preventing warm, humid air from making contact with the cooler surface of the pipes, thereby eliminating the primary cause of condensation.
• Improve ventilation: “Install exhaust fans or promote natural airflow,” says Bux. “This helps disperse humid air and prevent moisture build-up, reducing the chance of condensation.”
• Reduce humidity: Deploy dehumidifiers in problem areas. Bux maintains that keeping indoor humidity levels below 60% significantly reduces the likelihood of condensation forming on pipes.

A long-term solution suggested by Wortsmith is to replace metal water pipes with plastic ones. “Plastic pipes are less prone to condensation than metal pipes, as they do not conduct heat as well. Installing plastic pipes (PVC for cold water, CPVC for hot water, and PEX for both cold and hot water) can help prevent condensation issues.”

Do Hot Water Pipes Sweat?

Pipe condensation isn’t as common for hot water pipes as it is for cold water ones, but it does happen in high-humidity environments, says Wortsmith. “Moist air comes into contact with the hot surface of the pipes, which may be cooled slightly by the surrounding air, and the moisture in the air condenses on the surface of the pipe.”

Wortsmith cautions that HVAC pipes are also at risk: “Pipes that carry refrigerant for air conditioning systems can also form condensation because they are typically colder than the ambient air.” Maintaining the relative humidity below 60 percent generally solves both problems.

What’s the Best Kind of Pipe Insulation to Use to Prevent Condensation?

You don’t have to get fancy; inexpensive foam pipe insulation (about $0.50 per linear foot) usually does the job. I find it super easy to install: simply separate the insulation at the slit, fit it around the pipe and wrap PVC tape around it to hold it in place. Just be sure to buy the right size insulation for the pipes you want to protect.

About the Experts

• Asif Bux is the owner and service manager of Comfort Union, a full-service plumbing and HVAC company in Calgary, Alberta.. He’s also a licensed gas fitter.
• Keith Wortsmith is president of DASH Heating, Cooling and Plumbing based in Central Arkansas. The company is family owned and has been in operation since 1931.
• Bethany Uribe is an AHERA certified building inspector and a damage mitigation consultant affiliated with ASAP Restoration based in Phoenix, AZ.

The post How Do You Stop Condensation on Water Pipes? appeared first on Family Handyman.

I spoke to a professional plumber and garbage disposal manufacturer to learn more about this built-in safety feature and why it’s worth troubleshooting before calling the pros if the button keeps tripping.

What Does the Garbage Disposal Reset Button Do?

“The garbage disposal reset button is similar to an electrical circuit breaker and is a safety device on the unit,” licensed plumber Shaylin King says. If your unit suddenly stops working, first you should check if the reset button has popped out. The button shuts off the garbage disposal if it malfunctions, you accidentally misuse it, or there’s a bigger electrical problem causing a power overload. This prevents further damage to the disposal and fire risks.

Where Is the Garbage Disposal Reset Button?

“Moen garbage disposals have a red reset button on the front of the unit,” Jeremy Gattozzi, senior category Manager of disposals at Moen, says. “It’s located towards the very bottom of the garbage disposal, on the opposite side from the power cord. The location and color of the reset button on garbage disposals is the same for most units. Normally, the little red switch sits flush against the unit. When the power trips, the button noticeably pops out.

Do All Garbage Disposals Have Reset Buttons?

“Most garbage disposals have reset buttons,” King says. If the unit stops working and you’re struggling to find it, check the manufacturer’s manual or call the company’s customer service department.

What Causes a Garbage Disposal Reset Button to Trip?

According to King, the most common reason the reset button on a garbage disposal trips is because the motor jams when items get stuck in the grind chamber. When this happens, the unit might make a humming sound as the motor still tries to turn.

If the reset button pops and there is no humming or signs of a jam, the unit could be clogged further down or overheated, or there could be an electrical breaker issue.

What to Do When the Garbage Disposal Reset Button Trips?

You’ll probably have to do some detective work to establish the cause of the garbage disposal reset button trip. Follow the steps below to get your unit up and running again.

1. King advises immediately changing the unit’s wall switch to “OFF” when the garbage disposal unit suddenly stops working.
2. Wait five minutes for the motor to cool down if it has overheated.
3. Turn the unit back on.
4. “Test the unit by pushing the reset button,” King says. Flip the wall switch for the unit to “OFF” again if it still doesn’t spin after this.
5. Try steps two to four again.
6. Check the unit’s circuit breaker panel to see if the breaker has flipped to the “OFF” position because of an electrical issue. If this occurs, flip the switch back to “ON.”
7. Alternatively, check for items jamming the unit’s blades. Remove anything visible using needle nose pliers or kitchen tongs. Never try to lift things out by hand.
8. If anything is stuck in the blades, turn them using the handle of a wooden spoon or by inserting the manufacturer’s hex key (Allen wrench) at the unit’s base.
9. Repeat steps 3 and 4 again.
10. If the reset button keeps popping out, King recommends calling service professionals at this point. “This will require further diagnostics to determine if it is just jammed, [there is another issue], or if the unit is worn out and needs to be replaced,” he says.

How Long Should You Hold the Garbage Disposal Reset Button?

According to Gattozzi, you simply need to push the red reset button on the garbage disposal gently until it clicks into place and remains retracted. If the unit is working properly, it doesn’t need holding in for any length of time to reset the system or stay retracted.

Can You Replace the Reset Button on a Garbage Disposal

“The reset button cannot be changed if it continually pops,” King says. If the button won’t stay retracted, even if there is no apparent cause, he explains this could indicate the unit has an electrical short and requires professional garbage disposal replacement.

King explains that the grind chamber blades dull over time, and the mechanical and electrical elements won’t last forever. “The life expectancy of a unit depends on its quality, but is usually five to 10 years,” he says.

About the Experts

Jeremy Gattozzi is the Senior Category Manager of Disposals at Moen. The company is one of the world’s largest manufacturers of plumbing products, including garbage disposals; email interview, Apr. 22, 2024

Shaylin King is the Owner of Mr. Rooter of Tri-Cities, Yakima, and Hermiston, a Neighborly company. He is a 25-year journeyman plumber; email interview, Apr. 25, 2024

The post How to Use a Garbage Disposal Reset Button appeared first on Family Handyman.

I spoke with a trio of licensed plumbers to learn what causes water hammering, why it’s a serious issue, and how water hammer arrestors can solve the problem.

What Is Water Hammer?

Water moves through your pipes fast. Turn your kitchen faucet on full blast to get a feel for just how fast it moves. When it’s flowing and then is abruptly shut off, the water’s momentum slams into the end of the pipe, causing it to hammer against the hangers and wooden framing it touches.

The result can be a shocking level of rattling and banging, explains master plumber Aaron Adams. “Water hammering is very loud and causes pipes to shake violently. Other times homeowners may hear loud intermittent bangs when they turn water on and off in certain parts of the home.”

What Are Water Hammer Arrestors and How Do They Work?

A water hammer arrestor provides an off-ramp for the water’s momentum, like the emergency off-ramps on mountain highways, where trucks can safely divert if they get too much speed on a steep downward slope.

Arrestors have a piston or diaphragm separating the water line from an air-filled chamber. When the water’s momentum is high enough, the piston becomes the path of least resistance. The water pressure pushes the piston into the air on the other side, which compresses, absorbing and dispersing the water’s momentum.

This current design is an upgrade over old-school “air chambers” found in older homes. Air chambers were essentially arrestors without the piston. Over time, however, they filled up with water, making them ineffective.

Shaylin King, a licensed plumber with Mr. Rooter, compares water hammer arrestors to shock absorbers for your plumbing. “While not always necessary,” says King, “especially if your plumbing is properly sized and secured, they’re a smart preventative measure in many homes to protect against sudden pressure surges and potential pipe bursts.”

Why Are Water Hammer Arrestors Important?

Depending on the volume, water hammering can be mildly annoying or highly alarming. But the noise is only the symptom. The real issue is that the forces involved can damage the pipes, potentially resulting in breaks and leaks.

The most obvious issue that arrestors solve is that annoying water hammer rattle. But that noisy rattle is the side effect of the real problem: water slamming at full speed into the pipe junction. Over time that force can shake pipes loose from hangers, making the noise even worse, or even shake fitting loose can cause leaks.

“Plumbing pipes are not designed to withstand shaking or movement,” explains Adams. And that shaking, over time, can cause connections to come apart, or even wear holes through the pipes.

What Appliances Need Water Hammer Arrestors?

Before you install a water hammer arrestor, determine which faucets or valves in your house cause the noise. Washing machines and dishwashers are prime suspects because their automatic valves close fast.

Of course, not every appliance needs a water hammer arrestor. If the appliance cuts off water gradually enough, the change in momentum is minimal. If you’re not suffering from water hammer, then you don’t need to worry about it.

How Much Does It Cost to Install Water Hammer Arrestors?

A water hammer arrestor costs from $15 to $50. They’re available online, at home centers, and in hardware stores. Most of the cost of a water hammer arrestor installation is in the labor.

Calling in a pro will typically run $250 – $500. Shaylin King explains that the price largely depends on the placement within your plumbing system, since an arrestor install sometimes requires opening walls to access the end of pipe runs. In cases like that, where the plumbing is difficult to access or will require drywall removal and repair, the cost can balloon up as high as $1,000.

Clearly, this is an area where a DIY installation can save a great deal of money. But it’s important to do things right. As Aaron Adams points out, “cutting corners to save dollars in plumbing can lead to nightmares for homeowners.”

How to Install Water Hammer Arrestors Yourself

Arrestors are available for every type of pipe. The exact tools you’ll need will depend on what type of pipe you’re working with, and where you’re installing the arrestor. You may need to cut into the pipe, or you may be able to install a threaded connection. They’re typically installed at the end of a water line near the plumbing fixture that’s causing the hammering. If that’s not enough to eliminate the water hammering, Shalyn King suggests installing them at any 90-degree turns.

Once you pick a location, there’s a great deal of latitude about how the arrestor is installed.

“Generally, there is no ‘upside-down’ for a water hammer arrestor,” says Adams. “Arrestors are effective when installed vertically (in either direction), horizontally or at an angle.” But that’s not true of all models, so always check the manufacturer’s instructions.

You may want to coordinate a water hammer arrestor install with other work. Destry Thompson, of John Stevenson Plumbing, suggests installing them “in conjunction with a thermal expansion tank for your water heater to relieve excess pressure in the plumbing system.”

Personally, when installing an arrestor on older washing machines I like to take a moment to evaluate the shut-off valve itself. If the valve needs to be replaced soon, I’ll upgrade to new valves with integrated arrestors.

King had one more tip: give some thought to what access you’ll need down the road and install arrestors in areas you’ll be able to access when it’s time for a replacement. And that brings us to our next topic: replacing older arrestors.

How Often to Replace Water Hammer Arrestors

Luckily, water hammer arrestors don’t need to be replaced all that often. “Their lifespan is fairly long considering the forces they encounter,” says Adams. That said, every plumber I spoke to agreed that water hammer arrestors have a limited lifespan.

“Similar to a car’s shock absorbers, water hammer arrestors do wear out and eventually need replacing,” says King,

Where the pros disagreed was on how long they typically last. I heard estimates ranging from 5 to 25 years. Why so much variety? Because arrestor lifespan depends on a number of factors.

“Hammer arrestors can wear out depending on water quality, age, and pressure of the plumbing system,” says Thompson.

Another factor is how frequently the arrestors are used. If your arrestor is on a washing machine supply line, for example, there’s a dramatic difference in wear and tear if you wash a load of laundry every other day compared to once a week.

You’ll know it’s time to replace the arrestor if it shows signs of leaking or if the water hammering noises return.

FAQs

Do water hammer arrestors wear out?

Water hammer arrestors do wear out over time. Aaron Adams suggests occasionally checking arrestors for leaks at their connections to stay ahead of any problems caused by aging.

Can water hammer arrestors be installed upside down?

This depends on the specific arrestor. Most – but not all! – can be installed in any direction. It’s important to check your specific model’s instructions for the manufacturer’s guidance.

About the Experts

Aaron Adams is a Master Plumber and CEO of Aaron Services: Plumbing, Heating, Cooling, a family-owned company serving the Atlanta Metro area since 1978.

Shaylin King is a licensed plumber with Mr. Rooter Plumbing of Tri-Cities, Yakima, and Hermiston, Oregon.

Destry Thompson has been in the plumbing industry for nearly 9 years, and is currently the General Manager of John Stevenson Plumbing.

The post What Are Water Hammer Arrestors? appeared first on Family Handyman.

The Advantages of PEX

Use the Same Stuff

Make Crimped Joints at PEX Water Line Fittings

PEX Cutter

Stab-In Fittings

Cinch Clamps Are Easy

Fittings for a Shower Valve

PEX Shutoff Valves

Drop-Ear Elbow

Repair or Replace Kinks

Protect Your Pex

Abrasion and Suspension Clips

Transitions to Other Types of Pipe

Run the Line Without Joints

Support Long Runs

Home Runs Are Best

Upsize to Avoid Poor Pressure

Control Your Coil With an Elastic Cord

Warm up Cold Pipes

Plan for Stub-Outs in Advance

Use Angle Fittings for Tight Turns

Install PEX Directly to the Fixtures

Avoid Kinks at Tight Corners

Keep PEX Away From Hot Stuff

Also, look into these plumbing terms to understand plumbing better.

The post A Guide to Plumbing With PEX Tubing appeared first on Family Handyman.

What is PEX Piping?

PEX piping (shorthand for cross-linked polyethylene) costs less than half the price of copper and installs much faster. And since it’s flexible, PEX makes remodeling jobs easier. PEX has a strong “memory;” it always wants to spring back to its original shape. So working with a coil of PEX is like wrestling with a giant Slinky. For most jobs, you’re better off buying 10-ft. “sticks” instead. You may have to pay a few cents more per foot and install a coupler or two, but you’ll avoid frustration and kinks. Even plumbers who run miles of PEX every year often buy sticks than coils.

Which is Better – PEX or Copper?

PEX has several advantages over copper pipes:

• PEX is cheaper than copper. Half-inch PEX tubing costs about one-third the price of copper. Some of the savings will go towards purchasing a special tool to install the fittings. But if you’re doing a medium-to-large plumbing job, you’ll usually save on PEX over copper.
• PEX fittings are faster to install than copper. If you use a manifold and ‘home-run’ system, it’s like running a garden hose to each fixture — super fast and easy. But even if you install PEX fittings in a conventional main line and branch system, the connections are quicker to make than soldering copper.
• A PEX supply won’t corrode like copper. If you live in an area with acidic water, copper can corrode over time. A PEX supply is unaffected by acidic water and is therefore a better choice in these areas.

Watch this video to learn more about the PEX revolution:

What About PEX vs. CPVC?

A PEX supply and CPVC cost about the same. But there are a few reasons why PEX may be a better choice. First, a PEX doesn’t require glue, which means you don’t have to work in well-ventilated spaces or wear a respirator. PEX pipe is less likely than CPVC pipe to burst if it freezes. Also, since PEX is more flexible and available in long lengths, it can work better for ‘fishing’ through walls in remodeling situations.

Do I Need Special Tools?

Yes. When plumbing with PEX, you can use stab-in or compression fittings to make the connections, but they’re too expensive to be practical on large projects. Connections for most PEX supply jobs require a special tool. There are several PEX supply connection methods, but only two affordable enough to be practical for DIYers: crimp rings and cinch clamps.

Crimp rings are a band of metal, usually copper, that you slip over the fitting and compress with a crimp ring tool. The main drawback is that you’ll need either separate crimping tools for one-half inch and three-quarter inch fittings, or a universal tool with a swappable insert (not shown).

Cinch clamps work more like the traditional band clamps you’re probably familiar with. You slip the cinch clamp tool over the protruding tab and squeeze to tighten the cinch clamp. The same tool works for all sizes of cinch clamps.We like the one-handed version shown in the photo because you can hold the ring in place with one hand while tightening it with the other.

The only other special tool you need is a scissors-like cutter for the tubing.

How Do I Splice PEX Fittings Into My Existing Pipe?

There are several methods. The easiest is to cut out a section of plumbing pipe and slip in a stab-in tee (left). SharkBite is one common brand of stab-in fitting. This method doesn’t require soldering, which can be a big time-saver. But check with your plumbing inspector if you’re planning to bury this connection in a wall or ceiling. Some areas don’t allow stab-in fittings to be concealed. Another method is to solder in a tee and a PEX supply adapter. Then slip the PEX supply tubing over the adapter and attach it with your chosen connection method (right). You can also use a stab-in tee to connect PEX fittings supply to CPVC. Read the label to find the compatible fitting.

Do I Have to Use Manifolds with PEX?

No. You can install PEX fittings supply just like you would other pipe, with main lines and branches to each fixture. But you lose a lot of the benefits of PEX with this system since it requires so many fittings. With the home-run system, you install a manifold in the utility room or some area that’s close to the main water line and water heater, and run a separate PEX tube to each fixture as shown above. This system uses more tubing, but is fast and only requires two connections: one at the manifold and another at the fixture end. You can also use a hybrid system where you run three-quarter inch hot and cold lines to a set of fixtures — for example, a bathroom — and install a smaller manifold behind an access panel. Then make short runs of one-half inch PEX water line tubing to each fixture.

Manifolds look intimidating. But they actually simplify plumbing runs and reduce possible leaks by eliminating the need for tees and other fittings between the main supply line and the fixture.

Does it Meet Code?

There is no unified national plumbing code. Before starting your PEX plumbing job, check with your local inspector for specific local requirements.

Do I Have to Use Red for Hot and Blue for Cold?

PEX comes in red and blue colors to help you keep track of the hot and cold lines. You can use white PEX for everything if you prefer.

Is PEX Reliable?

PEX has been used for decades in other countries, where there are thousands of homes with 30-year-old, leak-free PEX. Most of the problems with PEX systems, in the United States and elsewhere, were due to sloppy installation or faulty fittings rather than the tubing itself.

Can I Connect PEX to My Water Heater?

PEX can’t be directly connected to a water heater. First extend a pipe 18 in. from your water heater and connect the PEX to the pipe.

Which Tubing Should I Use for Interior Water Lines?

For water lines there are three PEX supply grades: PEX-A, PEX-B and PEX-C. They’re manufactured differently, PEX-A being slightly more flexible. If you’re ordering online, go ahead and spend a few cents extra for PEX-A. But don’t go running around town looking for it; the difference isn’t that big. The plumbers we spoke to said they were willing to use any of the types in their homes. PEX is also popular for in-floor radiant heating systems, though you need PEX tubing with an oxygen barrier.

How Do I Connect PEX to my Plumbing Fixtures?

There are several methods. If the connection will be visible, like under a wall-hung sink, and you would prefer the look of a copper tube coming out of the wall, use a copper stub-out (left). You can connect a compression-type shutoff valve to the one-half inch copper stub-out and then connect your fixture. In areas that are concealed, like under a kitchen sink or vanity cabinet, you can eliminate a joint by running PEX supply directly to the shutoff valve. Use a drop-ear bend support to hold the tubing in a tight bend (right). There are several types of shutoff valves that connect directly to PEX.

If you’re using a manifold system with valves, you may not need to install a shutoff valve at the fixture. Ask your plumbing inspector. We recommend adding one, though. It doesn’t increase the cost much and is more convenient than running downstairs to shut off the water when a repair is needed.

What About Expansion?

PEX supply expands and contracts more than copper, so don’t stretch it tight. Let it droop a little between fasteners. On long runs, it’s a good idea to install a loop as shown to allow for contraction. Another advantage of the loop is that if you mess up and need a little extra tubing, you can steal it from the loop. Also, since PEX moves as it expands and contracts, make sure to drill oversize holes through studs or joists so it can slide easily. And don’t use metal straps to attach it. Use plastic straps instead.

Will PEX Break or Split if it Freezes?

Probably not. Manufacturers are reluctant to say so, but reports from the field suggest PEX can withstand freezing. You should still protect the tubing from freezing. But since it can expand and contract, it’s less likely to break than rigid piping.

What if I Goof? Can I Take it Apart?

Sure. There’s a special tool for cutting off crimp rings, and you can use side cutters to remove cinch clamps. But a rotary tool (Dremel is one brand) fitted with a cutoff blade works great for cutting either type of connector (see photo). After you remove the crimp ring or cinch clamp and pull the PEX supply from the fitting, cut off the end of the tubing to get a fresh section for the new connection. If you damage the fitting with the rotary tool, replace the fitting rather than risk a leak.

The post PEX Plumbing Pipe: Everything You Need to Know appeared first on Family Handyman.

Cannizzaro didn’t originally plan on becoming a master plumber, like her father. When she was younger, she wanted to be a veterinarian or a surgeon. “I always swore I would never follow in my father’s footsteps,” she says. “But here we are, all these years later, and I’m so happy that I did.”

How Did You Get Here?

With a master plumber father and a mother who worked alongside him and handled the books, Cannizzaro was well versed in the industry at an early age. She even went along on jobs during weekends and summers.

The first in her family to go to college, she planned on taking an office job once she graduated. But she found she missed working with her hands and puzzling out solutions, so she leaned into some of the things she loved as a child.

“From a very young age my mom demonstrated that the construction industry was something that women could do,” she says. “[She] was never a licensed plumber, but incredibly knowledgeable about what she assisted my dad with for all of those years.“

Cannizzaro started her journey in plumbing by working for her parents’ company while finishing her degree in business administration at the University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee. When her dad had a stroke and her mom went back to nursing school, she stepped in to help. She assisted her mom with the paperwork and went on jobs with her dad.

She worked with her father for a few years before he retired from full-time plumbing, though he still does occasional jobs for his longtime clients. He turned 80 this year and still goes out on a couple of calls a week.

Cannizzaro completed her apprenticeship with another company while pursuing a master’s degree in business, also at UW-Milwaukee, at night.

Eventually, Cannizzaro decided to combine her plumbing experience and background in business by launching her own company As she wrote the business plan, she set a goal to launch prior to her 30th birthday. On June 1, 2011, two weeks before turning 30, she launched Milestone.

Highs and Lows

Cannizzaro’s path has been full of ups and downs. She says she wouldn’t change a thing though it was stressful at times, which really helped her grow.

Successes

Cannizarro is especially proud of providing career opportunities and adjusting the public perception of the industry in general. Cannizzaro pushed back against the notion that construction and plumbing are for “the kids that couldn’t cut it.” Rather, these are vital industries that take lots of dedication and hard work to succeed in.

“Many people do not realize that the primary responsibility of a plumber is to protect the public health,” she says. “Without following the codes that have been put in place, the public would become very sick.”

To become a licensed journeyman plumber, Cannizzaro needed five years of schooling and on-the-job training. Achieving master plumber took an additional three years.

Challenges

One of the biggest challenges Cannizzaro faced was “establishing credibility in a very male dominated industry, especially in the beginning.” Her advice for others facing similar struggles? “Focus on working hard and doing what you say you are going to do,” she says.

Cannizzaro also needed to develop her time management skills. Running her own business involves constantly juggling commitments and responsibilities.  She tackled this by taking a few minutes each morning to lay out the plan for the day. This helps her easily keep track of everything on the docket.

Cannizzaro also spoke candidly about how her desire to “have it all” impacted her personal life. She waited to start a family. “[It] provided the most amazing two blessings that I could have ever asked for,” she says, “but also massive heartbreak as we lost three babies through miscarriages in between both of my boys.

“I buried myself in my work so I could be numb to what I was going through. which was not healthy, but was my way to cope with the heartbreak and feelings of failure that each of those losses brought.”

Favorite things

Cannizzaro couldn’t pick one favorite thing because there are several rewarding aspects of her work. She loves the teamwork and variety that comes with working in a small business. “No two days are ever the same, which makes it very exciting!” she says.

She also loves that her work helps people and has a lasting impact. Client reviews are incredibly important. “We actually read reviews and emails during our weekly team meetings to celebrate our wins,” she says.

Cannizzaro also enjoys volunteering in her community with her team. They visit schools to educate kids about the opportunities in the trades; serve time in leadership roles for non-profits in their industry; teach kids basic plumbing skills; and advocate for the trades at the state level.

“I truly enjoy helping people and believe that plumbing is a great opportunity that is often overlooked,” she says. “I get to be an advocate for a great trade while taking care of our clients and helping improve the lives of our team.”

A Day in the Life of a Master Plumber

Because there is such a variety in the jobs Cannizzaro takes, no two days look the same. She loves this about the industry. Each day is a unique mix of jobs and challenges that keep things interesting and engaging.

For those looking to break into the industry, Cannizzaro recommends hands-on experience and a diverse skill set. “Each trade has so many different levels and opportunities,’ she says. “You really need to explore the trade you decide to pursue in depth to find what you are most passionate about.”

Using plumbing as an example, she lists out the major levels — residential, commercial and industrial. Each has further layers — new construction, remodeling, service and repair.

To get that experience, Cannizzaro suggests looking for opportunities to interview companies or shadow someone on a job. “Exploring as many areas as possible will help to ensure you find what you will enjoy most,” she says. “Put the extra effort in on the front end to ensure you are in a field that you will truly enjoy for your career.”

Five Things She Learned

We asked Cannizzaro to tell us five things she’s learned throughout her career:

1. Do the right thing, no matter what. This has been something that really challenged me as a leader these last few years.  It will take more effort, but having a clear conscience and standing up for what you believe in is worth it.
2. Surround yourself with great people. One person cannot possibly know everything there is to know. Having a great support network can provide an immense amount of support, both professionally and personally.
3. Never stop dreaming. It’s so easy to get wrapped up in the mundane day-to-day items. Find something that inspires you and make sure it’s part of your plan. This is where I was able to find my passion in our trade.
4. Always look for ways to help and take care of others. I always look for things that I can do to positively impact on others — sometimes without them knowing.  I have found that the more I do this, without expecting anything in return, the more rewarding my life has been.
5. Figure out what you want your legacy to be and build your career around that. For me, it’s always been that I wanted to leave our industry a little better than I found it. It comes from a story that my dad used to share with me when I was little. He told me that if you borrow your neighbor’s wheelbarrow, you should return it better than it was given to you. I have looked at everything that I have borrowed or been involved with that way ever since.

The post A Day in the Life: Jessie Cannizzaro appeared first on Family Handyman.

Solenoid-triggered valves, like the water fill valves in washing machines, dishwashers and water softeners, shut off almost instantly. This not only causes the most ferocious hammering, but also puts strain on rubber hoses and soldered copper pipe fittings. Hand-controlled faucets usually don’t cause as much hammering because the shutoff is more gradual.

Are Banging Water Pipes Dangerous?

Water pipes that bang can be a source of concern for many homeowners. Although the noise may be annoying, it’s important to understand whether it poses any danger to your plumbing system. Generally, banging water pipes indicate an underlying problem that needs to be addressed.

Water hammering is the most common cause of banging water pipes. Although water hammering itself is not dangerous, it can damage your plumbing system over time if left unaddressed.

There are other less common causes of banging water pipes, including excessive water pressure, which can lead to leaks or burst pipes. It might also be the pipes are not properly supported, or plumbing joints are loose or faulty from old age, improper installation, or expansion and contraction due to temperature changes.

If you’re experiencing banging water pipes in your home, you should fix the issue or consult a professional plumber if you can’t correct the problem alone. This will ensure your plumbing system’s integrity in the future.

How to Fix Banging Water Pipes

The traditional solution of adding a capped length of copper pipe (above) works by trapping a bubble of air that acts as a shock absorber for the back pressure. But it only works for a while. Eventually, the air bubble shrinks because the air gets absorbed by the water until it disappears completely.

Instead, install a manufactured water-hammer arrester, available at home centers. There are various types, including in-line arresters, which can be installed on horizontal or vertical plumbing runs. Others mount between the spigot and washing machine hoses.

The closer you locate the arrester to the solenoid valves, the better. If necessary, you can add more in-line arresters to other water pipes near faucets or valves to further reduce hammering.

The post Water Pipes Making a Banging Noise? Here’s How to Fix It appeared first on Family Handyman.

One high-impact solution city planners and homeowners alike are turning to is the installation of bioswales. Chances are, you’ve seen a bioswale on the side of the road, but may not have recognized it as such. For the curious and environmentally conscious homeowner, consider this your guide to bioswales: what they are, how to spot them, and how you can build one for your own home.

What Is a Bioswale?

Much like rain gardens, bioswales are meant to absorb water runoff. However, while rain gardens focus on catching runoff from a house’s gutters and yard, bioswales “are designed to capture much more runoff coming from larger areas of impervious surfaces like streets and parking lots,” according to the Milwaukee Metropolitan Sewerage District (MMSD).

Additionally, bioswales typically involve more complex infrastructure, utilizing pipe underdrains and overflow structures, as well as the typical layers of soil and gravel. This allows the bioswale to filter pollution out of stormwater. Both rain gardens and bioswales use native plants to absorb water and prevent erosion.

How Do I Spot a Bioswale?

To find a bioswale, look alongside the streets the next time you’re out running errands. Bioswales are often placed in medians or running parallel to roads. Then, check the shape of the garden strip. Is it concave, like a drainage ditch? Is the garden filled with landscaping plants and rocks? Are there any drainage grates near it? If so, chances are, you’re looking at a bioswale.

How Can I Build a Bioswale?

The process for building a bioswale will depend greatly on whether you intend to install one on private or public property. Check out our suggestions for each below.

On Your Own Property

If you would like to build a bioswale on your own property, follow these steps:

1. Choose a location. Your bioswale should run alongside a flat and poorly draining area, like a driveway. Do not build over a septic tank or utility lines, and be sure to call 811 to have your utilities flagged before digging.
2. Dig the right ditch. The depth of the ditch should not exceed the limit of how much water your soil can absorb in 24 hours. Test this by digging a coffee-can-sized hole in your garden, filling it with water, and measuring how much drains off in 24 hours. For example, if the water in a 12-inch hole completely drains off in 24 hours, your bioswale should be 12 inches deep. The ideal bioswale slope ratio is 4:1, according to the National Association of City Transportation Officials (NACTO), so once you’ve determined the depth of the bioswale, multiply it by four to determine the width of the bioswale slope for each side of the deepest point. In the previous example, the bioswale would be 1-ft. deep and 8-ft. wide. This optimizes both collection and filtration.
3. Consider an underdrain. If you want the most highly filtered water, install an underdrain, or a perforated PVC pipe. This will encourage water to disperse throughout the soil, but isn’t necessary for smaller installs.
4. Decorate with rocks. Fill part of your bioswale with splash rocks and decorative rocks, placing the largest rocks in a bottom layer and smaller ones on top. As with creating a bocce ball court, this allows for the best drainage. Have fun with your design, making rock “rivers” or patches in a visually pleasing pattern.
5. Finish with native plants. Finally, top the bioswale off with native plants. Find which plants are native to your area here and use this guide to score great deals on native plants. Make sure to place high-moisture plants at the deepest point of the bioswale and moderate-moisture plants on the slopes. Whenever possible, use more mature plants to ensure they can endure the rain and use landscape fabric to secure them.

 On Public Property

If you are interested in helping to build a bioswale in your neighborhood, you will first have to consult with zoning professionals, the local government, an engineer and a landscape architect. Permits will certainly be required!

Fortunately, many metropolitan areas are constantly seeking volunteers to build bioswales and have numerous nonprofit organizations dedicated to this task. Check out the below programs for the most populated US cities, or search for volunteer opportunities in your area.

• New York, NY:
  • Rain Garden Action in Neighborhoods Coalition
  • Harbor Protectors
• Los Angeles, CA:
  • Los Angeles Beautification Team
  • Climate Cents
  • Breathe Southern California
  • North East Trees
• Chicago, IL:
  • Urban Rivers
  • Ravenswood Community Council
  • BUILD Chicago
• Houston, TX:
  • Houston Wilderness
  • Houston Parks Board — Bayou Greenways
• Phoenix, AZ:
  • Tiger Mountain Foundation
  • Arizona Forward
  • Keep Phoenix Beautiful

What Else Can I Do to Help the Environment?

The possibilities are endless! For a quick DIY project, try building a rain barrel to collect water for your yard. Or, make a pollinator-friendly garden filled with flowers that support bees. Look into inexpensive eco-friendly upgrades for your home and try to reduce your use of plastic. Every little bit helps, so no matter what appeals to you, know that you’re making a difference.

The post What Exactly Is a Bioswale? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Pay Attention To Plumbing Noises

The problem: If you hear a glugging noise, Cannizzaro says “the drain system is starving for air to regulate the pressures and it’s not able to get it, so it’s pulling air.” This could be a blockage elsewhere in the system, like a beehive in the vent pipe that goes through the roof. But if water isn’t going down the floor drain, it’s sewer related.

The solution: “The only time that it does get better on its own is if it’s not an issue with your home,” Cannizzaro says. If something’s going on with the city sewer, once the issue is corrected, your home should be fine. However, don’t wait to investigate!

To determine if it’s a city problem, Cannizzaro suggests asking your neighbor if they’ve having issues with the floor drain. “You [can also] call the water works or the sewage department and ask them to come out and check the city sewer,” she says.

If it’s not city related, a plumber can troubleshoot the issue.

Avoid Chemical Cleaners

The problem: When a toilet clogs or the sink isn’t draining, many people reach for chemical cleaners. But those eat away at the metal pipes common in older homes.

It’s also a temporary fix because whatever is causing the blockage might continue to occur. If you try to dislodge the blockage with a drain cable, it could puncture a hole in the deteriorating pipes and cause an even bigger problem.

The solution: Avoid causing blockages. Even if you have a garbage disposal, pipes in older homes aren’t equipped to handle them. Things like stringy vegetables, coffee grounds, grease and eggshells need to be put in the trash or compost bin.

To break down materials going down the drain, add a drain enzyme like BioClean once a month. If there’s already a blockage, you’ll most likely need to run a drain machine through. If you don’t know what to use, don’t be afraid to call your local plumber for advice!

Check for Deteriorating Pipes.

The problem: Water lines run along the ceiling of the basement, and a pinhole leak can be hard to spot on the top side of a pipe. Cannizzaro says she doesn’t worry about the floor when looking for leaks. “I’m with my flashlight and I’m looking … right up at the ceiling to see what’s going on,” she says.

Water evaporates, so there might not be an active wet spot. Instead, she looks for mineral deposits above the pipes. These are signs of a deteriorating pipe that requires immediate attention.

The solution: If you see white or red mineral deposits on the water line, it’s time to get a plumber. Depending on the type of pipe or the damage, they might repair the leak at the fitting or cut it out and replace that section.

Assume Lead Pipes Are in Your Older Neighborhood

The problem: Lead pipes are tricky in older neighborhoods. Lead doesn’t necessarily have to be in your home to cause issues.

“[If] there’s work being done [in the city water system], let’s say a block away, there could be lead shavings that are getting introduced” to your water, Cannizzaro says. That’s especially troublesome if you have children or someone pregnant in your household.

The solution: Install a reverse osmosis system that filters out lead and other unwanted containments. If you don’t want a complete system, you can buy lead filters for kitchen faucets, and refrigerator filters like Brita that can remove up to 99% of lead. This will ensure your water is at least safe to drink.

Be Aware of Roots in Sewer Lines

The problem: In many older areas, roots from big, beautiful trees penetrate older clay sewer systems with concrete joints. The roots eventually crack the joints and cause the pipes to shift. Penetrating roots can trap materials like “flushable” wipes and cause dams. The shifting pipes can create bellies that trap waste, leading to sewage pipe collapse.

The solution: If you live in a neighborhood with lush trees lining the street, have your plumber check your sewage system. For some homes, a plumber should come out once a year to do root maintenance. In other areas, it might be every 10 years. Other than that, avoid flushing things down the system that could cause blockages.

Install Backup and Battery-Powered Sump Pumps

The problem: If you live in an area with a lot of groundwater and you lose power in a storm, it can take time to re-start the sump pump.

The solution: Install a backup sump pump or a battery-powered one that isn’t affected by power outages.

Don’t Skip a Plumbing Inspection

The problem: In today’s real estate market, many prospective home buyers skip home inspections in their offers to make their bids more competitive. Don’t do it. Without an inspection, you won’t know the state of the home’s plumbing. The pipes could be corroded, razor-thin or have small leaks.

The solution: Hire a plumber to inspect the plumbing of any house you want to buy. That will help you better understand the life expectancy of the system and, if you go ahead with the purchase, establish a maintenance plan to head off future problems.

One Last Tip: Use Technology

Having an older home doesn’t mean you can’t utilize technology to your advantage.

Moen recently came out with a Flo Smart Water Monitor, which tracks “water flow, pressure, and temperature” in your home. The monitor senses larger water events and small leaks that could cause mold over time. If the monitor senses something is off, it can send an alert to your smartphone and shut off your water automatically.

Overall, with old plumbing, it’s best to be proactive. Replacing a pipe versus dealing with a major leak or backed-up sewage can be the difference between loving your older home and all its quirks, or feeling overwhelmed by expensive repairs.

The post Best Pro Tips for Old Plumbing Maintenance appeared first on Family Handyman.

Best Overall Garbage Disposal

InSinkErator Evolution Excel Garbage Disposal

If you’re looking for a garbage disposal you can rely on, check out the InSinkErator Evolution Excel. With a 1 HP motor, this powerful unit grinds up the competition (pun intended) and your unwanted food. The industry standard for a good garbage disposal motor is at least 1/2 HP, which the InSinkErator surpasses by double. And since the motor has Dura-Drive hardware, this garbage disposal operates at lower decibels than others on the market. Translation? It’s really quiet.

Stainless steel components grind through tough food scraps with ease—including beef bones.

“It has taken everything I have thrown at it and never missed a beat. It has never been jammed, had to be reset or even put into a bind from excessive items being put down it,” said Ken, a verified buyer.

Pros

• Quiet in use
• 7-year parts warranty
• Powerful 1 HP motor
• Simple installation process

Cons

• Pricey due to quality

747.5022% OFF$580.76 at Amazon

Best Budget Garbage Disposal

Waste King L-111 Garbage Disposal

With more than 3,700 five-star reviews on Amazon, the Waste King L-111 Garbage Disposal proves you don’t have to break the bank for a quality garbage disposal. At under $70, this model comes pre-wired for easy installation and has an energy-efficient motor with stainless steel swivel impellers to help reduce jamming. It also has a removable splash guard, which makes cleanup a breeze.

However, it is worth noting that it may take this garbage disposal a little longer to grind up larger food scraps. This is because of the 1/3 HP motor, which is a little less powerful than the industry standard of 1/2 HP or higher. Luckily, this shouldn’t be much of an issue for day-to-day usage, but it is worth mentioning.

Pros

• Affordable
• Easy to install
• 2-year warranty
• Dishwasher hookup

Cons

• 1/3 HP motor is less powerful than the industry standard

$77.99 at Amazon

Best Garbage Disposal with Safety Features

InSinkErator Evolution Cover Control Plus Garbage Disposal

If safety is a big concern when sorting through the best garbage disposals for your kitchen, look at the InSinkErator Evolution Cover Control Plus Garbage Disposal. It’s activated by the magnetic cover start switch, so it will run only when the cover is on, which means it doesn’t need a wall switch. This is great if you’re concerned about little hands accidentally flipping a switch they weren’t supposed to and potentially getting hurt. Additionally, this disposal has a Dura-Drive induction motor to quietly (yet powerfully) tackle difficult food like bones. It’s safe to say we’re sold!

Pros

• Added safety features
• No wall switch needed
• Quiet in use
• Powerful 3/4 HP motor

Cons

• Pricey

Shop Now

Best Garbage Disposal for Septic Systems

InSinkErator Evolution Septic Assist Garbage Disposal

While all disposals from InSinkErator are septic-friendly, the InSinkErator Evolution Septic Assist Garbage Disposal especially impresses thanks to an automatic injection of microorganisms to help break down food waste. With a long-lasting Dura-Drive induction motor and two-stage multi-grind technology, you’ll get large food scraps down with ease. It also has SoundSeal technology that makes it very quiet.

Buyers noted this corded model was fairly easy to install, but you may need to purchase a power cord (sold separately).

Pros

• Great for septic systems
• Quiet in use
• 3/4 HP motor
• 8-year limited warranty

Cons

• Power cord sold separately

262.9916% OFF$219.99 at Amazon

Best Large Capacity Garbage Disposal

InSinkErator Badger Power Series Garbage Disposal

For those with large sinks or those who throw a lot of food scraps down their garbage disposal, the InSinkErator Badger Power Series Garbage Disposal is a great option. It features a long-lasting, single-grind stage with a Dura-Drive induction motor. It has jam-preventing torque that will take on the toughest food scraps—even peach pits! Buyers liked the lift and latch mounting system, which makes for hassle-free sink connection and easy installation. It also has a great seven-year limited warranty.

Pros

• Tough on food scraps
• 1 HP motor
• Easy to install
• Made in the USA
• 7-year limited warranty

Cons

• Some buyers said it was noisy

$347 at Amazon

Best Garbage Disposal for Shallow Sinks

InSinkErator Evolution Compact

If you’re looking for the best garbage disposals for a shallow sink, you’ll want to check out the InSinkErator Evolution Compact Garbage Disposal. The Dura-Drive induction motor is powerful in smaller sinks and offers enough power to tackle small bones. Plus, its space-saving design fits easily under the sink and is a great choice for small households, apartments or those with limited space. Additionally, it comes with a three-year warranty.

Pros

• Great space-saving design
• Easy to install
• 3-year warranty
• Powerful 3/4 HP motor

Cons

• Some buyers noted some issues with the rubber baffle

$469 at Amazon

Best Value Garbage Disposal

InSinkErator Badger 5 Standard Series Garbage Disposal

There’s plenty of bang for your buck with the InSinkErator Badger 5 Standard Series Garbage Disposal. This model has long-lasting galvanized steel components to ensure a dependable grind. The compact, space-saving design fits existing InSinkErator hardware for a quick and easy installation if it’s time to replace your older disposal. You may need a new power cord (sold separately), but buyers gave it high marks for this unit’s performance and value.

Pros

• Great value
• Easy to install
• 2-year warranty
• 1/2 HP motor

Cons

• Power cord sold separately

$115.96 at Amazon

What to Consider When Buying a Garbage Disposal

When sorting through the best garbage disposals, you’ll want to consider a few things, including sink size, price, warranty, motor horsepower, and noise. As a note, residential garbage disposals typically offer between 1/2 to 1 horsepower. Also, some have added safety features and noise-reducing technology. You’ll want to consider how much room is under your sink, as some models take up less space than others.

Finally, consider how easy the unit is to install (if you plan on installing it yourself) and whether it’s hardwired or a corded model.

Types of Garbage Disposals

• Continuous feed garbage disposals will turn on and won’t stop turning until they are turned off. You can add food scraps while they are running.

• Batch feed garbage disposals run when a stopper is placed over the disposal opening and the switch is turned on. This is a great added layer of safety for those with small children in the home.

How We Found the Best Garbage Disposals

As shopping experts, our only job is to help you find a winning product. We start with the research and reporting basics—what products are made of, what they look like and how much they cost—to ensure that we’re only recommending the buys that are worth your time and money. Then, we research the features that speak to the product’s quality, taking advice from industry insiders and subject-matter experts on what makes a product a smart value (or worthy of a splurge). Finally, we do the work of combing through user reviews to see how real people interact with the product, and if it stands up to the test.

FAQ

What is the longest-lasting garbage disposal?

If you’re looking for a garbage disposal that will last a long time, look for those made with stainless steel. Stainless steel is not only resistant to rust, but is tough on food scraps.

How much horsepower do you need for a garbage disposal?

For most homes, a garbage disposal with 1/2 to 1 horsepower is plenty. If you’re an avid cook or plan to use your garbage disposal to get rid of tough scraps such as bones and pits, look for a unit with a horsepower of 3/4 to 1.

The post The 7 Best Garbage Disposals to Eliminate Food Waste appeared first on Family Handyman.

Whether it’s summer or winter, you don’t need to go to a resort to enjoy a relaxing soak in an outdoor hot tub. For a relatively small price, you can build this hot tub in your backyard and take a dip whenever the mood strikes. Fill the tub with a garden hose, light a fire to heat the water, hop in and relax!

The Tub

I chose a Rubbermaid 100-gallon stock tank for a few reasons.

First, it’s deeper than the metal tanks I saw. Second, the plastic itself is a more comfortable temperature in hot or cold weather than metal. Third, its rounded top edges have a larger radius than the edges of metal tanks, so they’re more comfortable to rest your arms on.

Lastly, you’ll find it more comfortable to lean back against the angled ends of the stock tank than the straight sides of a metal tank.

This tank had molded-in brackets for supporting it on a wood frame. I didn’t like the look and they would have made it harder to clad the tank, so I cut them off with a multi-tool.

Several molded styles are available, some with ridges, others without. For the purpose of making a hot tub, any style can suffice. The process of insulating will need to be adjusted if you go with a ridge free tub.

The Water Heater

To heat the water, we used a wood-fired thermosyphon heat exchanger. This 3/4-in. stainless steel coil circulates the water without a pump. It’s based on natural convection, called thermal siphoning.

Cold water enters at the bottom of the heater and expands. Convection moves the heated water upward, pushing it through the coil and out into the tub. At the same time, the heated water is replaced by cooler water below. So there is no need to wire the hot tub — a pile of dry firewood will do.

You can go out and purchase a 60-foot roll of 3/4-in. copper tube and bend a heating coil yourself. But the copper alone costs about the same as this stainless steel coil I found online and had delivered to my doorstep.

Cut the Platform

Set the stock tank upside-down diagonally on one end of a 4- by 8-ft. sheet of plywood. This lets you get the platform and a tub cover from one sheet.

With your pencil at a slight angle as shown, trace around the perimeter of the stock tank. Cut out the platform with a jigsaw. Cut the cover the same size.

Build Up the Base

Cut treated 2x4s to form an elongated octagon. Secure the 2x4s to the platform with water-resistant wood glue and exterior screws.

Trim the Base

Trim the 2×4 base so that it’s flush to the edge of the platform. Use a jigsaw or a router with a flush-trim bit.

Add Mounting Block

Cut plywood squares to fill the areas between the reinforcement ribs on the bottom of the stock tank. Secure the plywood with construction adhesive and self-tapping screws through the ribs into the plywood edges.

Attach the Base

Apply construction adhesive to the plywood squares. Set the assembled base on the upturned stock tank and center it. Secure the base with 1-1/4-in. screws through the platform into the plywood squares you installed in the previous step.

Insulate the Tub

Cut one-inch-thick foam board insulation to size with a table saw or utility knife. Make kerf cuts in the insulation on the pieces that curve around ends of the tank to allow the insulation to bend without breaking. Attach the foam insulation to the stock tank with hot glue and construction adhesive.

Make the Cedar Cladding

Using a router table, rout a bead on one edge of all the cladding boards, then rout a cove on the other edge of the boards. You can cut your boards to length before you run them through the router, or leave them at full length and cut them to final length after routing.

Attach the Cedar Cladding

Set the tub assembly on sawhorses to make it easier to work on. The first cladding board is the most important. Place the board under the lip of the stock tank. Then use a carpenter’s square to check the board is square to the platform. Attach the board to the edge of the platform with finish screws.

Work your way around the tub, keeping the bead on each board tight to the cove of the preceding board. Check for square as you go. The last board may need to be custom cut and routed again to fit tightly.

Add the Piping

Drill a 1/4-in. pilot hole from the inside of the tank through the drain plug and the cladding. Using the pilot hole as a guide, drill a 1-1/4-in. hole through the cladding from the outside.

Wrap the thread of a pipe nipple with plumber’s tape (aka Teflon tape) and thread it into the drain plug hole. Next, attach the coil to the pipe extension with a rubber coupler.

Add the Second Hole

Thread a pipe nipple onto the upper end of the coil and mark on the cladding where to drill the top hole. Again, drill a 1/4-in. pilot hole, only this time through the cladding into the stock tank.

Remove the board and drill a 1-1/4-in. hole at your pilot hole into the board. Remove enough insulation to make space for the drain plug, then drill a hole to fit the threads of your drain plug and install it.

Attach the Heating Coil

Reinstall the bored cladding. As before, wrap the thread of a pipe nipple with plumber’s tape and thread it into the drain plug. Then attach the coil to the pipe nipple with a rubber coupler.

The post How to Build a Wood-Fired Hot Tub appeared first on Family Handyman.

Clear Drain Clogs

Nine out of ten clogs in kitchen and bathroom sinks can be cleared with little effort. Usually a few pumps with a plunger does it. When hair causes a clog, a zip-it tool easily removes the soap-laden mess.

Clogs you can’t clear this way are deeper in the pipes and may call for more intrusive methods, including disassembly of the P-trap. That’s a job a competent tenant can DIY, but you need permission from the landlord in case something goes wrong.

Definitely don’t use chemical drain cleaners without the landlord’s permission. The wrong ones can harm septic systems and damage pipes.

Fix Squeaky Hardwood Floors

If you’re renting an apartment with hardwood floors and the boards squeak, you can often get relief by sprinkling talcum powder into the cracks. This non-intrusive repair lubricates the floorboards and usually stops the squeaking.

You can also use powdered graphite, crushed soapstone or a talcum substitute if you’re worried about the potential health effects of inhaling talcum.

If the floor still squeaks after you try this, leave the repair to the landlord. It usually involves driving screws or nails to secure the floorboards and subfloor to the joists. One mistake on your part might deface the floor.

Change Lightbulbs

This is a simple enough procedure. Removing the cover from the fixture can sometimes be challenging, especially when working on a ladder. If you feel up to the job, your landlord will probably thank you.

When changing incandescent or halogen bulbs, be sure not to exceed the wattage rating for the fixture. To be safe, install a bulb with the same wattage as the one you remove.

If you need to change bulbs in recessed lighting fixture in a high ceiling, don’t overreach and put yourself in danger. Use a lightbulb changer.

Replace AC and Mini-Split Filters

If a window air conditioner or the wall unit of a mini-split heat pump system isn’t keeping the room comfortable, the problem may be a dirty filter. New filters are inexpensive and easy to install, so there’s no reason to call this one in to the landlord.

Just remove the front grille from the AC or wall unit, pull out the old filter, purchase an identical one and pop it into place. You might not even have to replace it. Depending on what kind of filter is, you could just clean it with soap and water.

Shovel Snow

If you’re renting a ground-floor apartment, someone needs to clear your driveway and walkway. Many communities have strict requirements about removing snow from public walkways in front of residential buildings within a certain time period — often 24 hours.

This one’s a no-brainer. Unless the landlord has a maintenance staff to shovel snow, go ahead and do it yourself. This may even be stipulated in the lease, especially if you live somewhere with heavy snowfall. Clearing sidewalks and driveways are a matter of safety as well as convenience.

Patch Holes in the Wall

Small holes left after you take down a picture or remove a screw are easy to fix. All you need is a little spackling compound and a putty knife. If the hole is small enough, you can even use toothpaste.

You can also repair larger holes (up to about an inch in diameter) by filling them with patching compound and covering that with spackling or joint compound.

Touching up the paint is a touchier subject. Unless you have the exact paint color on hand, it’s better to let your landlord or the maintenance staff handle this. If you get the color wrong, you may be liable for repainting the entire wall.

Adjust Cabinet Hardware

Cabinet doors that tilt and won’t close are annoying. So are wobbly handles and drawers that stick. All it takes to fix these nuisances is a screwdriver and maybe some WD-40. No reasonable landlord will insist on coming over to do it for you.

Of course, if your building has reliable maintenance people, you may prefer to leave the job to them, But if you rent a house or a single detached unit and you’re on your own, you can make these minor improvements yourself.

It’s best to leave things like broken hinges and cracked or delaminated doors to the landlord. But if you need new shelf liners, go for it.

Replace Smoke Detector Batteries

Nothing ruins a good night’s sleep more than the beeping of a smoke alarm that needs new batteries. If you have new batteries and a ladder, go ahead and change them. Just open the battery compartment door, pull out the old ones, insert the new ones and you’re done.

If you don’t see a battery door, you may have to rotate the housing counterclockwise and remove it to find the right compartment. With newer models, It’s also possible the batteries are sealed. If that’s the case, call the landlord, because the smoke alarm needs to be replaced.

Un-Jam the Garbage Disposal

Uh oh … someone put chicken bones in the garbage disposal, and now it’s stuck.

Most units — including all Insinkerators — feature a slot on the underside of the canister for a special key that lets you turn the rotor and free the blockage. If you don’t have the key, try a 1/4-inch hex wrench. Be sure to unplug the disposal before you do this.

And after you get it running again, grind some ice to get rid of any other small bones that might still be lurking. Rather than giving you a hard time, your landlord will probably thank you for taking the initiative.

Re-Caulk Bathroom Fixtures

When caulk in the shower, bathtub or around the sink gets old, it’s discolored by mold and starts to separate. Besides being unsightly and unsanitary, it allows water to seep into places it shouldn’t.

Although it’s a job that takes some time, you can pull off that old caulk with a sharp knife, then apply new caulk yourself with a squeeze tube or a caulking gun.

It does take a little skill to do it right. But if you feel competent, you shouldn’t have to involve the landlord in this repair. You’ll have a cleaner, healthier bathroom while doing the landlord a solid by waterproofing the fixtures.

The post 10 Apartment Repairs and Maintenance You Can Do Yourself appeared first on Family Handyman.

Figure A

Cutting List

Frame the Reservoir

Cut the reservoir frame sides (A) and ends (B) from 2×2 lumber and fasten the bottom piece of marine plywood (C) to form the base. Align the sides (D) with the ends of the base and fasten them to the 2x2s. Fasten the ends (E) to the 2x2s at the bottom with construction screws. Drive trim screws into the edges of the plywood toward the top.

Place the Liner

You’v got two options for lining the reservoir. Flat pond liners, available at home centers, are inexpensive but require some origami to fit properly. I ordered a custom heavy-duty box welded liner from everything-ponds.com that fit the reservoir perfectly. It was more expensive than I liked, but well made, strong and easier to install.

Fasten the Liner

Rip the termination bar (F) down to 1/4-in., then cut it to fit inside the reservoir. Drill countersunk pilot holes every several inches, then clamp the termination bar and liner to the top of the reservoir and fasten them with one-inch screws. This prevents the liner from sliding down.

Layer the Water Curtain Arm

I constructed the water curtain arm from ipe decking. It’s a rot-resistant species that will do well outside for years with little maintenance. You may substitute another rot-resistant or treated lumber if you wish.

At the table saw, rip off the rounded edges of the ipe decking, leaving the boards about five inches wide. Then cut the horizontal (G) and vertical (H) outer arm parts to length with 15 degree angles on the ends. I cut each pair at the same time to ensure they were the same length and angle.

Rip another piece of decking in half for the spine of the arm, and cut two pieces for each of the horizontal (J) and vertical (K) spine parts with the same 15 degree angles. Lay the parts on a flat surface. Glue the pieces together, overlapping the spine.

Fasten Plumbing Clips

Before gluing and nailing the final layer of the arm assembly, fasten plumbing clips to hold the CPVC and vinyl tubing along the inside of the spine. Then fasten the final pieces of ipe to complete the arm.

Notch the Arm

Using a Speed square indexed against the bottom of the arm, lay out a 12-in. tall by 7/8-in. wide vertical notch to fit over the end of the reservoir. Transfer the mark to both sides of the arm and cut the notch using a circular saw and jigsaw.

Wrap the Reservoir

I decided to wrap the plywood with copper rather than stain or paint it. To apply the copper, roll contact cement on the outside of the reservoir and onto the copper coil. Then carefully place the reservoir onto the copper.

Apply one side at a time, folding the copper around the corners with a wood block. I planned for the seam of the copper to be hidden later by the water curtain arm. Once the copper is applied, press it firmly in place with a J-roller.

Attach the Arm

Glue two ipe offcuts together to make the arm support block (L). Position this block on the inside of the reservoir to keep the arm in place. Fasten the block with screws from the outside and seal it with silicone.

Slide the arm over the reservoir edge and fit the plumbing channel over the block.

Mark a Line

The CPVC pipe that makes the water curtain needs many holes drilled in a straight line. To get them all to line up, scribe a line across the pipe by clamping it down and dragging a marker flat along your workbench surface.

Drill the Holes

Mark the hole locations along the line one inch apart. Fasten a pair of plumbing clips to a board to hold the pipe in place while you drill the holes, then clamp the board to the table to keep it in position. Slide the pipe through the clips and drill all the holes.

Connect the Fittings

I spent some time in the plumbing department at my local home center piecing together the fittings to plumb the water curtain to the pump. I ended up using a 3/4-in. PVC end cap, a 3/4-in. push-to-connect x FIP brass adapter and a 3/4-in. MIP x barb brass adapter.

After fitting these parts together, I pushed a length of one inch diameter vinyl tube over the barb fitting and held it in place with a hose clamp.

Connect the Pump

Snap the water curtain pipe into the plumbing clips, then cut the vinyl tubing long enough to connect to the pump. Slip the tubing onto a barb fitting on the pump and tighten the nut that connects the tubing to the pump.

With the plumbing in place, I used an offcut of ipe to make the fountain arm cap (M).

Trim the Bottom and Top

Measure and cut miters on two-inch-wide pieces of ipe to make the top side (N) and end (P) trim pieces. Fasten them with a bead of silicone and brad nails. Rip 1/4-in. ipe strips for the lower side (Q) and end (R) trim and fasten them around the bottom of the reservoir to cover the edge of the copper coil.

The post How to Build a Modern Water Fountain appeared first on Family Handyman.

What Is the Lokby showerhead?

The Lokby showerhead is a telephone-style showerhead like the editor-tested Moen Attract showerhead. What sets this showerhead apart is the eight available spray settings—including built-in power jets. The power jets, located on the top of the showerhead, blast away soap scum and dirt on your skin—and in your bathtub.

Why do shoppers love the Lokby showerhead?

Not only does this showerhead offer high pressure while still remaining eco-friendly thanks to a built-in flow restrictor, but it includes a whopping 57-inch hose that is capable of reaching clear across the bathroom. It’s possible to use the cleaning jet to power-wash your sink, toilet and tiles—no harsh scrubbing and chemicals required.

If your hair or skin suffers from the quality of your water, pair the Lokby showerhead with this editor-tested showerhead filter and enjoy bouncier hair and a clearer complexion. Filtered showerheads remove harsh chemicals and metals that diminish the effectiveness of your showerhead. The best part is that they’re typically compatible with any type of showerhead, including the Lokby showerhead.

Unlike other showerheads, the Lokby showerhead boasts over 15,000 reviews. Customers comment on the lightweight construction and incredible power of the built-in jets.

FAQ

Which type of showerhead is best?

The best showerhead is subjective depending on your family’s needs. It’s worth exploring different types, including LED showerheads that offer lighting in dim bathrooms and smart showerheads that pair with Bluetooth for a custom cleaning experience. Spa showerheads also exist, and they offer a relaxing experience for those who prefer to use their shower to unwind.

Will a better showerhead increase water pressure?

Some showerheads have better water pressure than others. Ultimately, for the best water pressure, ensure you clean your showerhead on a regular basis. If your showerhead becomes jammed with debris and mineral buildup, there are plenty of ways to unclog a showerhead.

If all else fails, it’s easy to replace unusable showerheads. Locate some of the best showerheads by looking at reviews and deciding what features are a dealbreaker for your family.

Do all showerheads fit any shower?

Generally, showerheads are a standard size that fit most showers, so it’s pretty simple to change your showerhead. Some specialty showers, like smart showers, may require a special showerhead to function properly. Always check the specs of your new showerhead to ensure it will fit with your shower’s setup.

Where can I buy the Lokby showerhead?

The Lokby showerhead is available on Amazon for $65. Secure one for only $35 thanks to a generous 45% discount for the eight-setting chrome version. The matte black and brushed nickel colors are also available on sale for 44% off and 43% off, respectively.

$59.99 at Amazon

The post Over 15,000 Shoppers Use This Showerhead to Clean Their Showers (and It’s on Sale) appeared first on Family Handyman.

The situation in Colorado’s San Luis Valley, where I flipped a small home several years ago, is different. Nighttime temperatures can drop to -30 degrees in the winter. Builders take pains to insulate every foot of a home’s water line. But at those temperatures, even insulated pipes can freeze.

Some helpful neighbors suggested I let at least one faucet in the house drip at night. But is this a good idea? And does it actually work?

Yes, and yes. Read on to learn why.

Why Does Letting a Faucet Drip Prevent Pipes from Freezing?

Because moving water is less prone to freezing. That’s why flowing streams generally don’t freeze over in the winter, while lakes and ponds do.

Water is the only known non-metallic substance that expands as it freezes. Frozen water is a problem in your plumbing because it can separate copper, PVC and CPVC pipes at the joints and even rupture them altogether. PEX is flexible enough to resist bursting, which is why it’s gradually becoming the default material for residential water pipes.

Water pipes are always full, which is why you get instant water whenever you turn on a faucet. When all the faucets are closed and the water doesn’t move, it stagnates. And stagnant water is more likely to freeze than running water.

Dripping a faucet allows the water to flow just enough to prevent it from stagnating in your pipes. If any water does freeze, the open faucet gives it somewhere to go when it thaws, relieving pressure on the rest of the system.

Does Letting a Faucet Drip Prevent Pipes From Freezing?

Usually, but not always. Your chances of success in places like coastal California, where the temperature hardly ever drops below 25 degrees, are almost guaranteed.

During a frigid winter night in Colorado or Minnesota, however, a small drip may not do the trick. If it’s really cold, it may take a steady stream the width of a pencil to maintain enough flow to prevent freezing. That’s obviously wasteful, and there are better ways to protect your pipes.

First of all, water pipes in extreme climates should be indoors or underground where they can benefit from the ambient warmth. When pipes are buried they should be six inches below the frost line, which varies from region to region, and at least 12 inches below the surface according to the building code. Indoor pipes running along an exterior wall should be wrapped with pipe insulation.

Exposed pipes should be protected with heat cable because pipe insulation by itself won’t prevent freezing, However, if pipe insulation is all you have and temperatures aren’t too extreme, letting the faucet drip can definitely help.

How Much Water Should Drip To Keep Pipes from Freezing?

It doesn’t take much. One drip every few seconds is usually sufficient. If you get your water from a municipal system, a small drip like that shouldn’t cost any more than a few cents per night. But it’s still wasteful, so you might want to catch the water in a bucket so you can use it later.

It’s important to remember to let the cold water drip, not the hot water. The cold water line is the one most in danger of freezing.

The best way to protect all the pipes in the system is to drip the faucet farthest away from the water source. If you’re trying to protect pipes that run through the attic, basement or some other unprotected area, it doesn’t hurt to drip the faucet closest to those pipes as well. If you have a basement sink, dripping that one should take care of the whole house.

Anyone with outdoor water pipes should drain them before winter starts and leave them empty until spring. If you have outdoor spigots on the side of the house and can’t drain them because they’re connected to the main water supply, replace them with frost-free spigots. These have long tubes that reach inside the house to connect to pipes sheltered from the cold, and they drain automatically.

The post Why Does Letting Your Faucet Drip Prevent Pipes from Freezing? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Putting together a network of pipes of different diameters and materials can be like assembling a puzzle. Sometimes you don’t know exactly which fitting to buy until you reach the part of the puzzle where you need it.

Plumbing fittings vary by size, purpose and material. You often must tie together pipes of different materials with transition fittings. The materials in common use today — copper, PVC and CPVC, PEX, ABS, galvanized steel and cast iron — can mostly all be connected to each other with appropriate fittings.

With all the different pipe sizes and materials out there, things can get confusing. Fittings for water lines are different than those for drain and waste lines. It’s no wonder professional plumbers don’t go anywhere without a truck full of fittings. It’s their magic cupboard, letting them complete installations and repairs much more efficiently than amateurs like me.

Water Line Fittings

PEX is quickly becoming the material of choice for water lines. But PVC, CPVC and copper are still in common use, as is galvanized steel outdoors.

Three reasons for PEX’s popularity are its flexibility (it can bend around corners), durability and ease of assembly. You simply push PEX pipes and fittings together rather than gluing (PVC and CPVC), soldering (copper) or screwing them (galvanized steel).

Here are the fittings you’re most likely to need when assembling or repairing water lines:

• Coupler: Joins two lengths of pipe in a straight line. Whenever you cut a pipe during a repair, you’ll need a coupler to put it back together.
• Bend: For changing pipe direction. The most common bend angles are 90 degrees (aka elbows) and 45 degrees. Bends are typically made of the same material as the pipe except for PEX bends, which are brass or hard plastic.
• Tee: Shaped like the letter “T” with two parallel ports and a perpendicular one. It’s used for adding a branch line. When the branch line is a different size than the main one, you can make the connection with a reducing tee.
• Reducing adapter: Another way to join pipes of different diameters. It may be shaped like a bell (common for copper and galvanized pipes) or fit inside the larger pipe (more common for plastic). The first type is a bell adapter, and the second a reducing bushing.
• Union: A type of coupler you can take apart. Its large threaded nut holds together the two halves of the connected pipe. You can use one in place of a coupler in any situation where you temporarily disassemble the pipes.
• Threaded adapter: To join a pipe with a glue or solder slip joint to one with threads, you’ll need a threaded adapter. It can have male or female threads. Threaded adapters join plastic pipes to each other, or copper to itself or to brass.
• Compression fitting: This lets you join plastic or copper pipes without glue or solder. Most feature a ring that fits around the pipe and a nut that tightens onto the fitting, wedging the ring into the gap between the pipe and fitting. Compression fittings allow for easy pipe repair. Most modern faucet and toilet shutoff valves have compression fittings.

Waste and Drain Fittings

Cast iron was a common material for drain pipes in the first part of the 20th century. They’re usually connected with couplers that feature rubber gaskets surrounded by stainless steel sheathing.

These days, most drains are made with PVC or ABS plastic. Plastic drain fittings are usually glued, but the ones you might need to remove temporarily, like cleanout plugs, are threaded.

Here are the most common drain fittings. The list doesn’t include couplers and ordinary bends, because they’re similar to the ones used for water pipes and serve the same purposes.

• Long-sweep elbow: Makes a 90-degree bend in a longer arc than an ordinary elbow to allow water to flow more smoothly. It’s used for connecting vertical drain lines to horizontal ones.
• Straight tee: Performs the same function as tees for water lines, but are seldom used for drain lines. They’re mostly for vents, tying horizontal pipes to vertical stacks.
• Sanitary tee: Aka a santee, this has a sweep on its perpendicular port to promote water flow in the direction of the sweep. Use it to connect a horizontal waste line to a vertical one, but not a vertical one to a horizontal one. That’s the job of the next fitting.
• Wye: Shaped like the letter “Y,” a wye does the same job as a sanitary tee, but with less chance of backflow. This is the fitting you need to connect the vertical drain from your sink or toilet to the sewer. You can also use it to connect a horizontal waste pipe to a vertical one.
• Double wye: As you might expect, this has two inlet ports instead of just one. It’s commonly used for connecting a double-basin sink to a single P-trap.

Transition Fittings

Whether you’re connecting PVC or CPVC pipes to copper, cast iron pipes to ABS or galvanized pipes to copper, you’ll need a transition fitting. In some cases, you can do it by taking two threaded adapters of different materials and screwing them together. But it’s often easier to use an adapter specifically made to couple them, assuming you can find one.

• Plastic-to-copper slip adapter: This fitting has male copper threads on one end and a PVC or CPVC slip joint on the other. After soldering a female thread adapter to the copper pipe, you screw in the adapter and glue the plastic pipe to the slip joint.
• Dielectric union: Used for mating copper or brass to galvanized steel, its insulating washer keeps the pipes electrostatically separated to prevent corrosion. Dielectric unions are commonly used when installing water heaters.
• Cast iron to plastic coupling: These are widely known as Fernco couplings after the company that makes most of them. They consist of a rubber cylinder surrounded by a stainless steel sheath and two or more threaded pipe clamps tightened with a screwdriver.

The post A Guide To Pipe Fittings and How To Use Them appeared first on Family Handyman.

I spoke to her retired plumber cousin over the phone, and he diagnosed the problem as a clog in the floor drain pipe rather than something more serious. But before she called another plumber for a quick $100+ cleanout, I brought over my recently acquired Cobra Tools Pistol-Grip Power Drum Auger to see if I could break up the clog myself.

What is the Cobra Tools Pistol-Grip Power Drum Auger?

How We Tested It

I bought the Cobra Tools Power Drum Auger because I was sick of standing in ankle-deep water standing in my aging bathtub as I showered. A week later I learned of my mother’s basement floor drain predicament, giving me two worthy tests just days apart.

How it Works

Unclogging drains is a messy job. But with the Cobra Tools Power Drum Auger, I was done in a matter of minutes.

In both cases I attached my cordless drill to the drum auger and plunged the rotary tip of the cable into the depth of the pipe. I didn’t use chemicals at all, so I felt safe operating the drum auger with just some thin rubber gloves and grungy work clothes.

Once I placed the Cobra Tools Power Drum Auger cable down the pipe, I pushed it by hand until I felt resistance from a bend in the pipe or the mass clogging it. With about 10 inches of the cable sticking out of the drain, I kept downward pressure on the pistol grip and slowly feathered the trigger of my cordless drill. This ensured the sharp pointed end of the tip burrowed into the obstruction, or made its way around the bend.

For a clog far down the pipe, the quick lever cable locking switch comes in really handy, since it needs to lock at each obstacle encountered.

Once I found and breached the clog, the backed-up water slowly drained. I learned years ago not to pull out the auger too soon. Instead, I made a couple of extra turns with my drill to ensure it locked into the obstruction. Then pulled the drum auger cable back. This method helps you bring all the debris to the surface. If you don’t, you may find yourself repeating this process a few weeks later.

Ease of Use

Value

Just having a plumber show up at your residence will run you well over a hundred bucks. With the Cobra Tools Power Drum Auger costing less than $40, I can’t imagine why you wouldn’t keep a drum auger on hand to try to break through a stubborn clog.

Pros

• Clears pipes up to three inches in diameter;
• Quick lever cable lock;
• Easy to use;
• Inexpensive;
• Works with any drill.

Cons

• Unclogging drains is a messy task.

Q&As

Q: Is the Cobra Tools Power Drum Auger compatible with any drill?

A: Yes, as long as it features an adjustable chuck.

Q: Can you use this to unclog a toilet?

A: No. This cable may scratch the porcelain. The Cobra Tools Power Drum Auger is best for smaller diameter pipes like sinks, tubs and shower drains.

Final Verdict

Where to Buy

The Cobra Tools Pistol-Grip Power Drum Auger is available at Lowe’s or Ace Hardware.

Shop Now

The post Cobra Tools Pistol-Grip Power Drum Auger: How To Use, Pros, Cons & Where to Buy appeared first on Family Handyman.

Rhonda, a friend who lives in San Rafael, California, never thought about her shutoff valve until she had to replace the leaking angle stop on her toilet. Unable to find the main valve, she assumed she didn’t have one and had to turn the water off at the street.

Not only did she need to purchase a special tool to do that, the street valve was stuck. She ended up calling the city water department and waiting five days for the workers to arrive. By then, her bathroom had flooded so much it required a new floor covering.

Rerouting your home’s main water shutoff is not complicated. It doesn’t even call for removing the old valve, which you can simply leave open and forget about. The old valve provides a way to shut off the water to allow you to install the new one.

What Is a Water Shutoff Valve?

A water shutoff valve stops water flow. Some houses have more than one, each controlling a section of the plumbing system, such as a single bathroom or the kitchen. Faucets and toilets each have their own. The plumbing code requires a main one to stop water to the entire house, including outdoor spigots and sprinklers.

The main shutoff is usually a 3/4-inch gate or ball valve installed on the main cold water pipe. Gate valves look like outdoor spigots with spoked handles that must be turned several times to stop the water. Ball valves feature levers that rotate only through 90 degrees. The handles are sometimes red or blue. If you have an old one, it may not be painted, which makes it more difficult to find.

In homes with more than one shutoff valve, the main one probably looks like the branch valves. Its most distinguishing characteristic is its placement, always near the point where the 3/4-inch main water line enters the house. The main water line usually comes from underground.

If the house has no basement, the main valve is often just above ground level in the crawl space. That’s usually because it was convenient for the plumbers roughing in the water pipes.

Reasons To Reroute a Water Shutoff Valve

The main reason for rerouting your main water shutoff is to improve access. There are a few important reasons for doing this:

• Rerouting the valve from outdoors or the crawl space to the laundry room makes it easier to access. An accessible shutoff valve is easier to find and operate. That way you can undertake minor plumbing tasks like fixing leaks yourself to save on plumbing fees.
• In the event of a major leak or a natural disaster, you can prevent costly water damage to your house by quickly and easily shutting off the water.
• When you go on vacation in the winter, you can turn off the water and drain your system to prevent your pipes from freezing and bursting while you’re away.

Direct Installation or Bypass Loop

You can often install a new shutoff valve without installing new plumbing pipes. If the main water line comes through the floor and the shutoff is under the floor, just cut into the pipe above the floor and install a new valve.

If your water meter and shutoff valve are buried in a covered box in the yard, simply find where the pipe enters the house and follow it to the water heater. A point just before the main line branches into hot and cold (usually just before the water heater) is generally a great place for the main shutoff.

When the plumbing configuration doesn’t allow for accessible placement of the shutoff valve, you may opt to install a bypass loop you or a plumber can construct with plumbing pipe.

Cutting out a section of the main supply line and replacing it with a pipe loop puts the valve in an easy-to-reach place, such as the laundry room or behind a panel in the bathroom. Instead of flowing through the section of pipe you remove, water flows through the loop. And the valve, usually at the top of the loop, can stop it.

You can install a bypass loop with copper or CPVC, but it’s easiest with PEX pipe. After soldering or gluing appropriate adapters to the existing pipe, you basically snap on flexible PEX tubing and run it under floors or behind walls to the place where you need the valve. As long as the diameter of the PEX pipe matches the exiting pipe, water pressure should be unaffected.

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PEX Tubing

Copper and galvanized steel water pipes are so last century. PEX (cross-linked polyethylene) is the water pipe material of the future. It’s bendable, a snap to assemble (literally) and even comes in blue and red so you can tell the hot water pipes from the cold ones. PEX is much cheaper than copper and on a par with PVC, another plastic material with a future.

Today, PEX is the material of choice for new water system installations, and it can also be tied into existing copper systems. One of the main drawbacks of PEX is that it isn’t rated for exterior above-ground use, so landscapers usually use polypropylene or PVC. Another problem: PEX fittings are more expensive than metal or PVC fittings.

Vent Stack

The vent stack in any building is the main vent pipe connecting the sewer to the roof. It’s that two- to three-inch pipe you see rising from the roof of every house, resembling a miniature smokestack. Each drain in the building has its own vent, and all of these branch vents typically connect to the main vent stack.

Like a smokestack, a vent stack dissipates harmful gases into the atmosphere, but its main purpose is to allow air into the pipes. Without a source of air to equalize pressure, negative pressure (suction) would slow down the flow of liquids in the pipes or stop it altogether.

If your toilet isn’t flushing properly or your drains run slowly, you might suspect a blockage. But the problem could just as easily be an obstructed vent stack.

Water Closet

This common plumbing term is historical. Back before centralized sewer systems and bathrooms were common in every home, people often piped water to a spare closet in the house and retreated there when the need arose. Because it had water, it became known as the water closet.

Somehow the name stuck, and plumbers continue to refer to a toilet as a water closet. That’s what the “WC” imprinted on most toilets stands for. By the same token, the fitting that performs the dual purpose of sealing the toilet to the waste line and holding it to the floor is known as a closet flange, and the tool you use to clean a blocked toilet is called a closet auger. While you’re at it, get to know the difference toilet auger versus snake.

Plumbing Trap

A plumbing trap is formed by a pool of water collecting in a pipe with the shape of an inverted letter “P” or the letter “S” standing on its side. Per plumbing codes, every drain has to have a trap, and P-traps are the most common. The pool of water that collects in the inverted “P” seals the drain.

Traps are required in part because they catch solid objects (like your wedding ring) and prevent them from clogging the drain line. A far more important reason, however, is that the water seal keeps sewer gases and creepie-crawlies in the waste pipes and out of the bathroom, kitchen or laundry room. Even toilets have built-in traps, which is why there’s always water in the bowl. Here’s what you need to know about laundry room plumbing codes.

Sweat Connection

Joining copper pipes to fittings is called sweating. The procedure involves the use of solder, a soft metal alloy that melts under the heat of a torch, and flux, a soapy substance that cleans oxidation off the copper to help the solder stick.

After coating the pipe and fitting with flux, joining them and heating the joint until the metal begins to glow, a plumber holds the tip of solder coil to the joint. The solder melts, wicks into the gap and solidifies as soon as the heat is removed, thus creating a watertight connection.

While the pipe is heating up under the torch, the flux bubbles up, and any moisture in or on the metal beads up and evaporates. This may be the reason this procedure is known as sweating.

Sanitary Tee

The fact that there’s such a thing as a sanitary tee may lead you to think there’s also such a thing as an unsanitary one. There isn’t. The terminology reflects the fact that a sanitary tee, or santee for short, is used only in waste lines, where sanitation is of prime importance.

Tees, plumbing fittings shaped like the letter “T,” are used, among other things, to tie a new pipe somewhere into the middle of an existing one. Tees used for pressurized water lines have a straight inlet port (the base of the “T”).

Waste lines aren’t pressurized, so the inlet port of a sanitary tee has a slight curve (sweep) in the direction of flow. Its purpose is to keep water going in the direction it’s supposed to go and prevent contamination upstream of the connection point.

Cheater Valve

Sometimes plumbers have to cheat to avoid a lot of extra work. When they use cheater valves, it’s usually because there is no easy way to vent a fixture drain. This situation can arise when installing island sinks or sinks in bathrooms far from the main vent stack.

A cheater valve is properly known as an air admittance valve (AAV) or a Studor valve after inventor Sture Ericson and his wife Doris (STUre + DORis = STUDOR). It’s a mechanical venting device that, when properly installed on a P-trap, opens to allow air into the pipe whenever water is flowing.

AAVs were introduced in North America in the late 20th century and plumbing authorities were slow to approve them. Most now do, but there are some holdouts, so it’s important to check local regulations before installing one.

Gray/Black Water

Water that pours from a faucet or into a toilet tank is usually clear. When it enters the drain, however, it assumes one of two new identities, gray or black water, and the difference between them is significant.

Gray water comes from sink, tub, and shower drains as well as dishwashers and washing machines. It’s often contaminated with soap, grease and other impurities, and you wouldn’t want to drink it. But you can use it to water your flower garden or lawn. Some eco-conscious homeowners have gray water collection systems for this purpose.

Black water comes from the toilet. It’s potentially loaded with dangerous pathogens and always flows into the sewer or septic system. It may ultimately be reclaimed after passing through a treatment plant or a septic drain field. But until that happens, it shouldn’t be handled for any purpose.

Hose Bib

A hose bib may be known by other names, including spigot, valve or faucet. But an actual hose bib has one distinguishing characteristic: The spout has hose threads that allow the attachment of a garden hose.

The added functionality of the hose threads is hard to overstate. Installing a spigot without hose threads on the side of the house would allow you to fill buckets with water but not water the garden with a hose or hook up a sprinkler.

Because water can potentially flow backward through a hose and contaminate the water supply, current codes require hose bibs to have backflow prevention devices, usually vacuum breakers. If you have an old hose bib without backflow protection, you can buy an inexpensive vacuum breaker you can screw onto it before you screw on the hose.

T & P Valve

The full name of this plumbing fitting is a temperature and pressure relief valve, and the place you’re most likely to find one is on the top of a water heater tank. It’s a safety device that opens to relieve pressure in the tank when the water gets too hot, thus averting a catastrophic explosion.

A T&P valve is a brass fitting about three inches high, usually connected to a pipe that runs along the side of the tank to the floor. If the valve opens and spews hot water mixed with steam, the pipe directs them to the floor, thus protecting anyone who happens to be in the room.

Water Hammer

It sounds like a gift Aquaman might give to Thor, but water hammer is more of a condition than a thing. It happens when pressurized water inside a pipe suddenly reverses course, which can happen when you open or close a faucet or the toilet fill valve switches on or off. Turbulence causes the water to push violently against the pipe, resulting a loud banging sound known as water hammer.

Water hammer can result from excessive pressure in the pipes or the pipe configuration. You can reduce or eliminate it by reducing the water pressure or installing a water hammer arrester, a fitting that absorbs the pressure of the turbulent water.

Blow Bag

Among the many ways to clear a clogged drain, the blow bag is one of the most ruthless. Also known as a plumbing bladder, it’s a heavy-duty rubber bag with a fitting for a garden hose.

When the bag is empty, you can easily insert it into a clogged drain. Once you’ve pushed it in as far as it will go, you turn on the water to the hose, which inflates the bag and forces it against the clog. That usually releases the clog and sends it down the drain.

Blow bags work well on drain pipes, but they aren’t recommended for clearing toilet clogs. Toilet pipes are too big to allow the bag to wedge itself in place and create the necessary pressure. Also, be aware that too much pressure can damage your pipes.

Plumbing Snake

With its coiled body and sharp head, a plumbing snake bears an uncanny resemblance to an actual snake. However, plumbing snakes are more correctly known as augers, and they come in various sizes. There’s a sink auger for clearing sink clogs, a toilet or closet auger for toilets and a motorized, extra-long sewer auger for really big clogs.

You use a drain or toilet snake by feeding the head into the clogged pipe as far as it will go, then turning a crank or pushing a plunger to open the jaws or rotate the spiral-shaped head. The snake then eats its way through the obstruction.

Drum augers, used for clearing drains and toilets, feature an ergonomic handle design that makes cranking easier and more effective. Some augers are designed to use with a drill.

Air Gap

Depending on where you live and the local plumbing regulations, you may have a dome-shaped fitting mounted on the back corner of your kitchen sink. This fitting is called an air gap, and you’ll have one only if you have a dishwasher.

The air gap, a type of venting device, interrupts the dishwasher drain hose on its path to the sink drain. It allows air into the drain hose and prevent backflow from the sink drain to the dishwasher.

If you have a dishwasher and don’t have an air gap, it’s probably because local codes allow a high loop. In this configuration, the drain hose is fastened to the underside of the sink cabinet to form a loop, which also effectively prevents backflow.

Plunger

You probably know what this is, but you may not know there’s more than one type. The small dome-shaped rubber plunger that you might have in the bathroom is a sink plunger. If the bathroom is well-equipped, you’ll also have a bell-shaped toilet plunger.

Sink plungers are designed only for sinks; their flat rims seal well against flat surfaces like sink, tub and shower drains. Toilet plungers fit inside the toilet opening. Heavy-duty toilet plungers are shaped like bellows to provide turbo-charged plunging power. While you’re a it, get to know the difference between a sink and toilet plunger.

To use a toilet plunger effectively, first fill the bell with water so you’re not trying to break a clog with air. If you do this, the plunger is often the only tool you need to bust a toilet clog.

The post 15 Common Plumbing Terms You Should Know appeared first on Family Handyman.

• Using a pair of plumbing pliers, remove your old shower head by turning counterclockwise (to the left) on the coupling that connects the showerhead to the shower arm. (See photo.)
  • Pro tip: Prevent scratching your new shower head by covering the jaws of your pliers with tape.

By the way, here’s how to clean a shower head without removing it.

Apply Plumber’s Tape

• Wrap the threads of the shower arm with a few rotations of plumber’s tape. (See photo.)
  • Note: Some shower heads don’t require plumber’s tape. Check with the manufacturer specifications.

Install the New Shower head

• Fit the female coupling of the new shower head onto the threads of the shower arm, then hand-tighten, turning it clockwise (to the right).
• Tighten the shower head coupling another quarter-turn using a pair of plumbing pliers. (See photo.)
• Turn on the shower and check for leaks.

The post How to Change a Shower Head in 3 Easy Steps appeared first on Family Handyman.

Troubleshooting The Problem

• Start by lifting the lid off the top of the toilet tank and peeking inside.
• … if the nut that holds the handle onto the tank could be loose or too tight, see Step 1.
• … if the threads on the nut or the handle housing could be stripped, see Step 2.
• … if the handle arm could be cracked or broken off, see Step 3.
• … if the chain from the handle arm to the flapper could be disconnected or broken, see Step 4.

Loose handle

• If the handle is loose, tighten the nut and washer on the inside of the tank with a pair of pliers. Do not overtighten the nut. You could strip the threads or, worse, crack the porcelain tank.
• If the handle is stuck down in the flush position, it may not be installed properly. Loosen the nut washer, reposition the handle so it is parallel with the top edge of the tank and re-tighten the nut.

Stripped threads

• If the nut doesn’t tighten or keeps coming loose, the threads may be stripped.
• For a quick fix, wrap the threads on the handle bolt with white plumber’s tape or electrician’s tape. Then slip the washer and nut back on and tighten the nut.
• The best fix is to replace the toilet handle.

Handle arm

• Inspect the handle arm for defects, cracks or breaks.
• If there are defects, replace the complete handle and arm assembly.
  • Pro tip: Before purchasing a replacement handle, note where your handle is mounted on the tank. There are several types: front mount left, front mount right, front mount universal and side mount.

The chain

• If the handle seems to be operating properly but the toilet still doesn’t flush, the chain connecting the handle arm to the flapper could be disconnected or broken.
  • Before working on the chain, empty the tank. To do this, shut off the water supply valve and pull up on the flapper, letting the water drain.
• If the chain is disconnected from the handle arm, reconnect the chain from the flapper into the holes on the handle arm, using the chain hook. Leave a little slack in the chain.
• If the chain is disconnected from the flapper, reconnect the chain to the flapper.
• If the chain or the flapper is defective, replace it.

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