Rosemary by Sherwin Williams

Nature-inspired colors are in for 2025, and green hues fall right in step with this trend. Rosemary by Sherwin Williams is a great example as a medium to darkish green with subtle gray undertones. “It’s warm, not vibrant, and decidedly green but muted,” Woolf says. “As an exterior field color it works on cottage style, Victorian, Foursquare and Craftsman-style homes — and it looks gorgeous on brick.” This color also pairs nicely with warm neutrals and wood tones.

Vine Leaf by Behr

Vine Leaf by Behr is a brighter green but still keeps with the earthy color palette of 2025. Vibrant and fresh, this color offers a lively pop of color without being overwhelming. It’s a perfect choice for homeowners who want to make a statement without straying too far from earthy, grounded tones. Despite its brightness, Vine Leaf works well with neutral tones like warm grays, whites or wood accents and is effective as the main exterior color or as an accent on shutters and doors.

Swiss Coffee by Benjamin Moore

“We’re generally seeing a movement away from cool neutrals to warm neutrals,” Woolf says, including warm or muted whites. Swiss Coffee by Benjamin Moore is representative of this trend with creamy undertones and is a color Jenkins turns to all the time. Clients will want “a beautiful warm off-white with a light greige shutter,” she says, and Swiss Coffee on a home’s field area paired with Edgecomb Gray by Benjamin Moore on shutters creates a “quintessential combination.”

Oxide by Behr

A deep, rich, earthy reddish-brown with warm undertones, Oxide by Behr creates a bold look while staying on trend as a nature-based color. This striking hue can be used to add character and depth to your home’s exterior as a pop of color on the front door or shutters or as a main field paint. It pairs nicely with warm neutrals, wood tones and stone while complementing modern and contemporary homes.

Anonymous by Sherwin Williams

Sage gray/greens are one of the most popular exterior paint colors for 2025, with Anonymous by Sherwin Williams being a standout example. While technically a gray, the green undertones give it a sage-like appearance that pairs well with other muted neutrals like warm whites and beige. Complementing a variety of architectural styles, from coastal and modern farmhouse to traditional and colonial homes, Anonymous is an excellent option for homeowners who want a relaxed, natural aesthetic.

Flint by Benjamin Moore

“Another color family I get a lot of requests for are the deep, moody gray-greens,” Jenkins says, of which Flint by Benjamin Moore is a heavy favorite. “This color is just gorgeous outside,” she says. A deep, cool medium-dark gray, Flint offers a bold, modern look while adding depth and visual interest to any home’s exterior. “I call it a charcoal blue. It’s a mixture of blue-green and gray, but heavy on the blue side,” Jenkins says. “It’s great for shutters on a white house or paired with black gutters and windows.”

Whitall Brown by Benjamin Moore

A deep, dark brown with red undertones, Whitall Brown by Benjamin Moore is part of a larger trend toward dark brown exterior paint in 2025. “I think dark browns play into two trends that are popular: dark colors and earthier tones,” Woolf says. “It’s a way of doing dark blue or black without doing dark blue or black.” Dark brown paint colors are very versatile too. “It works in the Southwest, Pacific Northwest and on Garrison, Four-Square and Craftsman-style houses,” Woolf adds.

Needlepoint Navy by Sherwin Williams

While deep blues have been part of exterior color trends for a few years, they’re still one of the most popular paint colors for 2025. Warmer than black, a dark blue like Needlepoint Navy by Sherwin Williams can add depth to coastal, traditional and modern homes. Whether used as an accent on garage doors, trim, or shutters, or as a dominant field color, Needlepoint Navy offers flexibility, easily adapting to both modern and classic designs depending on the complementary colors around it.

Revere Pewter by Benjamin Moore

If you’re after an earthy, neutral and versatile color for your home’s exterior, consider Revere Pewter by Benjamin Moore. A soft, warm gray with subtle undertones of green and beige, this light to medium-toned color can complement architectural styles from traditional to contemporary. A great transitional color, it complements stone, brick or wood elements of your home’s exterior, while pairing well with crisp whites or charcoal trim and accents.

Tyler Gray by Benjamin Moore

A warm, sophisticated gray, Tyler Gray by Benjamin Moore is an understated color that will stand the test of time. “It’s a mid-tone neutral that sits between gray and beige,” Woolf says. “Colors like this seem to outlast trends, which is important if you’re painting your house every ten years or so.” She recommends trying Tyler Gray with brick or stone fixed materials on the exterior, like stone veneer. “You’re trying to avoid setting up a clash,” Woolf says, “Colors like those gray beiges can be much more flexible.”

About the Experts

• Amy Woolf is the owner of Amy Woolf Architectural Color and Design located in Northampton, Massachusetts, specializing in color selection and design services for both residential and commercial spaces. She is an award-winning architectural color consultant and interior designer.
• Lisa Jenkins is the owner of Lisa Jenkins Color, a design and color consulting firm based in Charlotte, North Carolina. Prior to this venture, she was a Color Marketing Manager at Benjamin Moore and an Architectural and Design Representative for Sherwin Williams.

The post The 10 Colors Everyone’s Painting Their Homes in 2025 appeared first on Family Handyman.

Although smooth walls have been the trend for many years now, some homes still have popcorn or textured ceilings. As with all walls in your home, there will come a time when you may want to paint it. Since popcorn and textured ceilings capture and trap dust and grim, they can look dingy over time. Even when you try to clean them, they just don’t look fresh and crisp, and you come to the crossroads of deciding to paint them. Before moving forward with painting, carefully consider your long-term plans for the ceiling, as painting over popcorn texture will make it significantly more difficult and costly to remove in the future should you decide to do so.

Painting any textured or rough surface has its challenges and requires a bit more effort than painting a smooth surface. Most importantly, it requires the thickest nap roller you can find. If you have ever painted a rough or textured surface with a thin nap roller, you know how frustrating it can be. Here is the lay of the land when approaching a popcorn ceiling with paint.

Do popcorn ceilings have asbestos?

Popcorn ceilings or textured ceilings applied in the 1980s or earlier are likely to contain some amount of asbestos, which is known to cause cancer.  If you’re not sure when your popcorn ceiling was installed, you can send a sample off to home centers to check if it contains asbestos. If uncertain, wear protective gear, such as safety glasses and a mask, to avoid coming into contact with crumbling texture or dust particles. If left undisturbed, the popcorn ceiling may be painted over, which is not harmful.

Mask the ceiling before painting

Before painting, clean the surface well to eliminate dust and loose particles. Dust and loose particles prevent the paint from properly adhering to any surface.

Use two-inch wide painter’s tape to mask off the edges of the outer perimeter of your ceiling. Ensure good adhesive bonding of the tape to seal the edge and avoid paint bleeds under the tape line. This is particularly important if the color of the walls differs from the color of the ceiling.

Protect floors and furniture with drop cloths

When using thick nap paint rollers, a lot of paint splatter will be generated during the painting process. Protect your floors and furniture with drop cloths or tarps to avoid paint droplets from getting everywhere. Additionally, wear clothes you won’t mind getting paint on, and protect your eyes by wearing safety glasses.

Cut in around the edges

Cut in around the edges of the room using a 1-1/2-to-2 in. angled trim brush to get into the nooks and crannies of the texture. Be generous when loading the brush with paint. Be careful not to push the paint too deeply into the tape’s edge, as this may cause it to bleed underneath. Use light brush strokes to avoid disturbing or damaging the texture.

Tip: Textured painter’s tape will leak paint through the wrinkles and under the texture, resulting in paint bleed that requires touchups. Choose painter’s tape with the smoothest texture for a clean paint edge.

Painting popcorn ceiling

Ceilings are usually painted in a flat finish unless they are located in high-moisture areas, such as bathrooms. Using a generous amount of paint, roll the paint onto the ceiling in random directions. Crisscross the roller as you go to force paint into the crevices of the texture. Think of making X and W patterns with your roller movement. In areas where a paint roller is too cumbersome to operate, use the trim brush to force the paint into the deep pockets of the popcorn drywall texture.

If you splatter paint on something not protected by a dropcloth, try to clean it up before the paint has fully dried. The fresher the paint splatter droplets, the easier they will be to remove.

Allow the paint to dry and apply a second coat. In most cases, two coats are sufficient, but depending on the coarseness of your ceiling and the paint you choose, more coats may be required.

Tip: Ceilings are usually painted white or light colors to reflect light back into the room. A darker paint color will absorb the light – which may be a conscious choice for a space such as a home theater.

Remove the painter’s tape and clean up

Once the paint has dried, gently remove the painter’s tape used to mask off the edges. Be careful not to pull off the texture that has been bonded to the edge of the tape. Remove the drop cloths and clean your painting supplies.

FAQ

Can I use a paint sprayer on a popcorn ceiling?

You may consider using a paint sprayer to paint a popcorn ceiling.  This will save on actual paint time but will require a lot more prep time. Using a paint sprayer will require the whole room to be fully protected because of the large amount of overspray. It comes down to personal preference. Ask professional painters, and half will say, “Definitely use a brush and roller,” and the other half will say, “Definitely use a paint sprayer.” For me, it comes down to the configuration of the room: how much furniture is in there?  What is the surface of the floor?  How tall are the ceilings?  The right choice is the one you feel most comfortable with.

What if I don’t want to paint a ceiling white?

White is highly reflective of light and will help a room feel bigger. If you want a bit of color but not a stark white, some professionals will mix a ratio of white with the color being used on the walls, so the ceiling lends itself to a complementary color but isn’t stark white.  Be sure to do a test, focusing on the color when it is dry.  Wet paint is deceiving because it is usually a different color than when it is dry. Think of saving a small amount of the mixed paint or make a note of the ratio used in the mix should you need to touch it up in the future.

What type of paint should I use for the ceiling?

More often than not, especially in new construction, you will find a ceiling painted with primer and no additional topcoat. If you desire a specific color match, you may add a topcoat over the primer.

Paint manufacturers are now selling paint specifically designed for ceilings. The difference between ceiling paint and primer is that ceiling paint is thicker, which may make additional coats less necessary. Ceiling paint comes in flat or low-gloss sheen.

Both primers and ceiling paints are manufactured to be stain-resistant, which means they are less likely to absorb smoke, cooking vapors, and other substances. Both ceiling paint and primers are also mildew-resistant.

The post The Ultimate Guide to Painting a Popcorn Ceiling Like a Pro appeared first on Family Handyman.

Use a Stain-Blocking Primer to Cover Flaws

Roof leaks, overflowing sinks, tobacco smoke and big spills can all leave ugly ceiling stains or dinginess that is impossible to conceal with plain old paint. But cover the stain with a coat of stain-blocking primer and your troubles are over.

The traditional favorite is white pigmented shellac. You can buy spray cans of pigmented shellac, but usually it’s easier to brush it on. Just don’t forget to pick up some ammonia or denatured alcohol to clean your brush. If you’re painting over a ceiling that’s yellow from smoke, roll a coat of shellac over the entire ceiling before painting with latex.

Sand Before You Paint

Over time, and as the layers of paint build up, bumps and crud can get stuck to the ceiling. On untextured ceilings, it’s a good idea to start with a quick once-over sanding with 100-grit drywall sanding paper. This helps ensure a perfectly smooth paint job and increases paint bonding. The easiest way to do this is with a sanding pole. When you’re done sanding, wipe the ceiling with a damp sponge to remove the dust.

Cut in Before You Roll

Cutting in before you roll allows you to cover most of the brush marks with the roller. Carefully brush paint along the edge of the ceiling a section at a time. Cut in about 10 linear ft. and then roll that section. This method has a couple of advantages over cutting in the entire room at once. First, the cut-in section will remain wet until you roll, so it blends in better. Also, it’s simply less boring to alternate between cutting in and rolling.

Roll Both Directions

There are a few tricks to getting a smooth, consistent coat of paint on the ceiling. First, work in sections about 5 or 6 ft. square. Move quickly from one section to the next to make sure the paint along the edge doesn’t dry before you roll paint on the adjoining section. This is called “keeping a wet edge” and is the key to avoiding lap marks. You’ll get the best coverage by immediately re-rolling each section at a right angle to your first roller direction as you go.

Buy Special Ceiling Paint

While there are exceptions, in general you’ll get the best results with paint that’s formulated for a ceiling application. For a ceiling, you want paint that doesn’t spatter, has a long open time (dries slowly), and is flat instead of glossy. Most ceiling paints are formulated with these qualities. And of course you can have ceiling paint tinted if you want a color other than “ceiling white.”

Lap Your Cut-In Onto the Walls

If you’re planning to paint the walls too, lap the paint onto the walls a little bit. Then when you paint the walls, you can err on the side of leaving a little ceiling color showing when you cut in and it won’t be noticeable. Some painters like to skip this cutting-in step and save time by mashing the roller into the corner instead, but this method is sloppy, builds up excess paint in the corner and can leave runs or a thick paint line on the wall.

Don’t Be Afraid of Color

You may not want to paint your ceiling yellow, but don’t be afraid to deviate from plain old white. Painting the ceiling a color can make a small room seem bigger, or a room with a high ceiling seem more intimate. Plus, it’s just more interesting. Ask at any full-service paint store for help in choosing complementary wall and ceiling colors, or search online for examples of rooms you like.

You Don’t Need an Expensive Pole

You can buy all kinds of fancy—and expensive—extendable paint poles, but a simple wooden broom handle usually works just as well. The reasons are simple. They’re cheap and light and do the job.

Use a Thick, Premium Cover

Here’s a tip that applies to most paint jobs but is even more important for ceilings. You want to get as much paint on the ceiling as you can in the shortest amount of time possible while minimizing spatters. To do this, you need the best roller cover you can buy. The best choice is a 1/2-in.-nap lambswool cover. If you’ve never tried a lambswool roller cover, you owe it to yourself to experience the difference. And if you’re worried about the cost, keep in mind that lambswool covers are easy to clean and can last a long time if you take good care of them.

Roll Gently on Textured Ceilings

Painting textured ceilings is a bit of a crapshoot. If the texture has been painted over already, it’s probably safe to paint again. If the texture has never been painted, there’s a risk the water in the paint could loosen the texture, causing it to fall off in sheets. A lot depends on the quality of the texturing job. If you have a closet or other inconspicuous area, do a test by rolling on some paint to see what happens. If the texture loosens, painting over the larger ceiling is risky.

If possible, spray on the paint—it’s less likely to loosen the texture than rolling. But spraying in an occupied house is usually impractical. The best tip for rolling on paint is to avoid overworking the paint. Just roll the paint on and leave it. Don’t go back and forth with the roller, as this is likely to pull the texture from the ceiling. If the ceiling needs another coat of paint, wait for the first coat to dry completely. Then roll another coat perpendicular to the first one using the same careful technique.

Feather Out the Paint Where You Can’t Keep a Wet Edge

When interior painting, you can’t cover large areas like ceilings, extra-tall walls or stairwells in single, continuous strokes, so the best way to minimize lap marks on these areas is to feather out the paint along the edges that you can’t keep wet. The thinner, feathered coat of paint will avoid the buildup that causes the lap mark. To paint a large section without leaving lap marks, roll the nearly dry roller in different directions along the dry edge, feathering out the paint as you go. After completing the entire length of the wall or ceiling, move to the next section and paint over the feathered edges. For the second coat, apply the paint in the opposite direction. This crisscrossing paint application sharply reduces (if not eliminates) lap marks.

Groove Textured Ceilings

It’s almost impossible to paint right next to rough-textured ceilings (a process called “cutting in”) without getting paint on the ceiling. Taping off the ceiling doesn’t work either. The solution? Knock off the texture at the edge with a putty knife. Hold the knife at a 45-degree angle to the wall and run the blade along the edge of the ceiling. The blade scrapes away the texture and leaves a small groove in the ceiling. Clean out the groove with a duster or a dry paintbrush. Now when you cut in along the top of the wall, the paintbrush bristles will slide into the groove, giving you a crisp paint line without getting paint on the ceiling. And you’ll never notice the thin line of missing texture.

Avoid Paint Freckles

Rolling paint on the ceiling showers you with a fine mist. A baseball cap is essential, and safety glasses let you watch your work without squinting. To make skin cleanup easier, rub lotion on your face, arms and hands. At the end of the day, your paint freckles will wash right off.

The post Painting a Ceiling? These Pro Tips Will Make It Easier appeared first on Family Handyman.

No More Splashy Paint Can Lids

Ever hammer down a paint can lid only to have paint splatter everywhere? You can prevent that by grabbing a 5-in-1 tool and using the pointy end to punch a few holes through the groove of the can’s rim (be sure to rotate the tool left and right a little to widen the holes). The holes allow excess paint to drain back into the can. The lid will cover the holes and make an airtight seal. If you don’t have a 5-in-1 tool handy, you can punch some holes with a hammer and nail. — Larry Gusman

Preserve a Brush With a Glove

I like to wear disposable nitrile gloves when I’m painting. They not only keep my hands clean but also keep my brush from drying out whenever I take a break. I simply grab the bristles with my gloved hand and then pull the glove over the wet bristles. A twist tie around the handle keeps the air out. — Ned Webb

A Push Broom Handle Reaches New Heights

You can spend $10 to $70 on an adjustable extension pole for rolling paint in high places. But if adjustability isn’t important or you just want to save a few bucks, try a push broom handle. Most fit perfectly on a paint roller. Long handles are also great for yard tools. — Dave Moran.

Slap It On, Then Smooth It Out

When painting trim or other woodwork with a brush, I’ve found it’s best to load my brush with paint and then lay it on heavily in small sections using short, quick strokes—just to get enough paint on the trim to work with. I then blend the paint into the section I painted before and smooth it all out using long finishing strokes in one direction. — Greg Scholl.

Brush Bristle Saver

Without something to hold them in place, paintbrush bristles will curl or splay as they dry. The best way to store them is in the cardboard wrappers that they came in. They’re not just packaging; they maintain the shape of the bristles as the brush dries after cleaning. If you’ve already thrown your brush wrappers away, use paper and a rubber band instead. — Andy Benke.

Cardboard Protects Floors Best

I don’t like drop cloths. They’re usually too big, slippery, clumsy and just downright messy—especially when I need to move them around while they’re still covered in wet paint. That’s why I prefer cardboard. I set it tight to the wall and slide it with my foot as I work my way around the room. — Beckie Boggs

No-Maintenance Paint Tray

Don’t bother cleaning or putting liners in your paint trays. Just pour any excess paint back into the can and let the paint in the tray dry completely before using it again. I have paint trays with a 1/8-in.-thick paint buildup in them. I like them better than clean trays because they’re a little heavier and don’t slide around when I’m loading the roller. — Mac Wentz

2/3 Prep, 1/3 Painting

A good prep job often takes more time than painting, but it pays off. The more time you spend prepping a room for new paint, the better your finished paint job will look. Washing, patching, sanding and vacuuming walls, ceilings, trim and doors before you pick up a brush or roller are time well spent. If you don’t take care of small imperfections now, they’ll stick out like a sore thumb once the paint goes on. — Arthur Barfield

Do the Ceiling, Then the Walls

Before painting any walls, take a good look at your ceiling. If you think it needs refreshing, paint it first. You don’t want to paint the walls and then—in a couple of weeks or years—do the ceiling. Rolling the ceiling drops a fine mist of paint onto everything below. Painting the ceiling first also allows you to be less fussy along walls. Any paint that gets slopped onto walls will get covered up later when you paint them. — Patrick Morrissey

Skip Brush Cleaning Between Coats

Whenever I take a break from painting or if I’m done for the day, I toss my brushes into a 5-gallon bucket of clean water to keep them from drying out (make sure all the brushes have the same color paint on them). Then, when I’m ready to start painting again, I swish the brushes around in the water and spin the excess out with a paintbrush-and-roller spinner. Do the spinning inside a second empty bucket to protect surrounding walls from flying water drops. — Ann Wisnoski

An Egg-Cellent Painting Tip

Whenever I need to paint something small like a picture frame and want to raise it off the table a bit to paint the edges, I break out these handy egg cartons. I just cut a couple in half and use them to support the frame’s edges. I can reuse them several times or just throw them away when I’m done. — Nancy Luptowski

The post 11 Painting Secrets from Our Expert Readers appeared first on Family Handyman.

Youthful Yellow

If you want to incorporate a bright color like yellow without committing to the whole house, front door paint is a great option. It’s easier to change your mind about a door than an entire exterior paint job.

Pretty Pink

Ready for Red

Outstanding Orange

Luscious Lime

Handsome Hunter

Tropical Aqua

Tranquil Teal Front Door

Breezy Blue

Nautical Navy

Playful Purple

Burnished Brown

Graceful Gray

Sophisticated Black

Welcoming White

The post 15 Front Door Colors That Will Give Your Home Instant Curb Appeal appeared first on Family Handyman.

I spoke with two decor professionals to find out what the 2025 Colors of the Year can tell us about where home fashions are heading, how and when they can help you make a stylish home your own, and how to introduce these trends in a way that feels timeless.

What Are the Colors of the Year?

Every fall, many major paint brands announce their Colors of the Year. “They’re a way for interior professionals and paint companies to demonstrate leadership in the space,” Interior Designer Heather Mastrangeli says.

She believes that, to some degree, the Color of the Year announcements are a marketing tactic. However, that doesn’t mean they’re meaningless. Companies make their selections by looking at current consumer moods and desires, along with lifestyle and design trend forecasting. This means that, although the colors vary by brand, there can be meaningful emerging themes amongst the hues.

Mastrangeli explains that there’s a direct correlation between the fashion industry and the interior design industry. “Typically, fashion is a little ahead of interior design, and trends begin in Europe before making their way to the U.S.,” she says. “As we see 2025 Color of the Year announcements, we know that these shades are carefully selected based on a multitude of criteria and will make a splash in the interior design world.”

Should I Care About the Colors of the Year?

You don’t have to select a Color of the Year to create a timeless, stylish space—and sometimes, these trending shades won’t fit with your personal preferences or the aesthetic you’re aiming for. However, if you need inspiration on the best interior paint colors for redesigning a room, Mastrangeli explains Colors of the Year can be a helpful starting point. “The risk [of making a design misstep] is mitigated slightly by turning to color trends,” she says.

They can help narrow down the overwhelming number of color options and provide inspiration and focus for an overall interior design style. If you like to be ahead of the curve with trends, you can’t go wrong with selecting a 2025 Color of the Year.

Will the Colors of the Year Age Well?

The colors of the year are chosen based on current and forecasted design trends rather than on how timeless the shades are. Certain shades may become dated more quickly than others. However, Interior Designer Megan Hersch says the trends tend to last multiple years and aren’t likely to shift to the opposite extreme quickly. “So the fear of your home looking outdated if you select a color from within the trend is not always warranted,” she says.

Mastrangeli says that it’s rarely the colors on their own that create issues with aging. “It’s the combination of the painted walls, the interior design, and the furnishings that can cause a space to look dated,” she says. Thinking about how all these elements come together can help you retain a timeless appeal when you’re painting your home to sell.

Looking at the emerging 2025 Colors of the Year, the trend is leaning towards earthy, warm, soothing and comforting shades, rather than contemporary cool tones. Mastrangeli says these shades have timeless staying power when combined with the right furnishings and finishes.

What The 2025 Colors of the Year Tell Us About Where Interior Design Is Headed

Hersch says that after several years of “hygge” home style, featuring warm woods and soft neutrals, people continue to look for a welcoming respite from the outside world. “The cooler grays of 10 years ago are giving way to colors with more sophistication and depth, which is where I believe the level of design will stay while people turn back toward more human connection and warmth,” she says.

Mastrangeli also believes the upheaval of the global pandemic has influenced the warm tone trends in the 2025 Colors of the Year selections. “When there’s a crisis, people crave comfort,” she says. “They want to be surrounded by warmth after making it through such a turbulent time.”

About the Experts

• Megan Hersch is an interior designer and co-founder and COO of online design service roomLift. She has almost 20 years of experience in the High-End Residential Interior Design Business; email interview, Sept. 13, 2024.
• Heather Mastrangeli, NCIDQ, IIDA, NKBA is a Registered Interior Designer and Owner of Innovatus Design, an award-winning interior design studio; email interview, Sept. 13, 2024.

The post What the Paint Colors of 2025 Tell Us About Where Interior Design Is Headed appeared first on Family Handyman.

Rumors by Behr

Back in the ’90s, maroon accent walls dominated interiors—and Rumors is the new and improved version of that color. It’s a deep ruby red that will add warmth and rich allure to a space, as Behr describes it.

How to Use It

“This color, in particular, feels luxurious and warm, which makes it a perfect color if you want to make a statement,” says Steele. “The best places to use it will be in the dining room, an office, or a library. When paired with gold or brass accents, the room will feel very sophisticated, even if decorated on a budget.”

Encore by Valspar

Encore is a saturated blue with violet undertones. According to Valspar, the anchoring color embodies confidence and joy. It’s a vibrant shade that makes an impact, but not too bright that it distracts the rest decor.

How to Use It

This color fits well with those who want to make their home feel more personalized and bold, but a little goes a long way. Limit it to one room or as an accent color. “With this shade, it alludes to confidence, which is a great color to use in a room like the dining room or in a home office,” says Steele. “Used as an accent color, the room will feel grounded and sharp.”

Mapped Blue by Dutch Boy

If you’re not a fan of ultra-dark colors, Mapped Blue is a good choice because it’s lighter than most the other colors on this list while still making an impact. Dutch Boy describes it as a medium-tone blue with slight yellow undertones. It’s a dynamic color that can look blue or green, depending on the light and time of day.

How to Use It

“Mapped Blue has an earthy and grounded tone, which makes it perfect for modern spaces that want to feel more connected to the outdoors,” says Steele. “Because it’s a lighter shade, it will make a room feel more open (which is perfect for smaller spaces). The welcoming feeling the color creates makes it great to use in kitchens or bathrooms and will pair well with white cabinetry.”

Violet by Minwax

Unlike the other 2025 colors of the year, Violet by Minwax is actually a wood stain instead of a paint color. Staining furniture purple might not be your first instinct, but this color will give your piece a whimsical and modern look that’s surprisingly charming. You can also experiment with different saturations by using as few or as many layers of stain as you want.

How to Use It

“The Violet by Minwax wood stain is a great alternative to typical neutral tones, giving you a sophisticated alternative with a colorful twist,” says Steele. “If you’re looking to elevate your room without painting the walls, this wood stain will be a great alternative for adding a colorful pop to your wooden furniture and will look great on a side table or a bookshelf.”

Quietude by HGTV Home by Sherwin Williams

Quietude is another color for those who want something on the softer, lighter side. It’s a muted sage with blue undertones that will help you create a tranquil space. It pairs well with other nature-inspired colors like sandy browns, creamy whites and pale yellows.

How to Use It

“The Quietude shade by Sherwin Williams is similar to the Mapped Blue in the sense that it alludes to the outside environment, making a room feel reconnected with nature. This makes it a great color to create a peaceful room, making it fitting for a bedroom or bathroom. If you want to pair it with light woods and natural greenery, the room will feel more relaxed,” says Steele.

Elderton by Graham & Brown

For a perfectly balanced brown, look no further than Elderton. Inspired by the deep brown leaves on an Elder tree, Elderton is a timeless color that will add interest to any room. The woodsy hue never looks red, which can be a risk when choosing a brown paint color. Instead, it’s rich and perfectly neutral so you can paint with confidence.

How to Use It

Dark colors like Elderton look best when used with the color-drenching technique. Instead of applying the color to only the walls, create a striking effect by using it everywhere—on the walls, ceilings, and even the baseboards and doors. Color-drench Elderton in a dining room, media room, or a powder room for a bold and sophisticated look.

Raku by C2 Paint

Similar to Rumors, Raku is a deep, dramatic red reserved for only the bravest painters! C2 Paint describes it as “an earthy, burnt, brownish red with oxidized undertones that infuse spaces with drama and intimacy. It’s a deep yet vibrant tone with dynamic undertones of rich mahogany that exude a sense of security, simplicity, and sophistication.”

How to Use It

Use this color anywhere you want to emulate a cozy cocoon of dark, warmth. It will transform extra small rooms like mudrooms and powder rooms into an unexpected jewel. In larger spaces like a bedroom or living room, the color feels luxurious and chic. Bring in dark leather furniture and walnut wood tones to create a monochromatic reddish brown space with layers of texture and dimension.

About the Expert

• Bree Steele is an interior designer and color expert at RJ Living. Steele has been in the industry for over a decade and has styled homes, Airbnb’s, and commercial spaces. She’s passionate about helping people create their dream spaces through their interior choices and paint colors.

The post 2025 Colors of the Year, and How to Use Them appeared first on Family Handyman.

Different types of paint sprayers cater to various project needs, providing versatility for a range of home improvement tasks. HVLP (high-volume, low-pressure) sprayers, for example, are great for detail work and achieving a fine finish on furniture and cabinets. Airless sprayers deliver high-pressure coverage, perfect for big jobs like painting an entire fence.

Once your project is complete, the sprayer and its accessories can be neatly stored in the durable storage case. It keeps everything organized and ready for the next use. This convenience ensures that the Wagner Flexio 3500 is always prepared to help you tackle your next painting project with professional results.

What is the Wagner Flexio 3500?

The Wagner Flexio 3500 is an HVLP (high volume low pressure) paint sprayer designed for DIYers. It is especially well-suited for small projects and detail work but is also capable of tackling medium-sized projects such as entire walls or treating a deck. It requires only electricity and ships with two nozzles that are capable of using most types of paints, stains and finishes.

Once your project is complete, the sprayer and its accessories can be neatly stored in the durable storage case, keeping everything organized and ready for the next use. This convenience ensures that the Wagner Flexio 3500 is always prepared to help you tackle your next painting project with professional results.

PAMELA BANDURANT/FAMILY HANDYMAN

Wagner Flexio 3500 Paint Sprayer

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Wagner Flexio 3500 Product Features

The Flexio 3500 Electric Handheld HVLP Paint Sprayer makes your painting projects faster and more efficient. It sprays 10 times faster than a traditional brush, allowing you to cover an 8-by-10 wall in just five minutes. This makes it perfect for both interior and exterior projects, including walls, decks, fences, furniture, cabinets and more.

One of the standout features of the Flexio 3500 is its variable-speed X-Boost turbine, which provides the power needed to spray unthinned paints and stains. This versatility means you can tackle a wide range of painting jobs without the hassle of thinning the paint. The sprayer also has a compact and lightweight design, making it easy to handle and maneuver, and is 10% lighter than previous Flexio models, reducing hand fatigue during extended use.

The sprayer offers multiple adjustable settings to suit your specific project needs, providing flexibility and control over your painting. The iSpray nozzle is ideal for achieving a textured finish on broad surfaces like exterior siding, walls and ceilings, while the Detail Finish Nozzle is perfect for a smooth, fine finish on cabinets, furniture and trim. These interchangeable nozzles make the Flexio 3500 a versatile tool for both professional and DIY projects.

Cleaning and Material

Cleaning and maintaining the Flexio 3500 is a breeze thanks to the Lock-N-Go system that allows for quick disassembly. The included Bonus Cup Liner further simplifies cleanup, making it quick and easy. For added convenience, the durable storage case keeps the sprayer protected between projects. Plus, you can access Wagner+ by scanning the QR code on your product for instant digital access to product registration, how-to guides, manuals and more, ensuring you have all the resources you need at your fingertips.

Lastly, the sprayer is capable of spraying:

• Latex and oil-based paints
• Semi-transparent stain
• Solid stains
• Water-based lacquers
• Urethanes

How We Tested It

The first thing that stood out to me about this sprayer was the case that it came in. I often find that molded plastic cases are almost useless as it seems impossible to get the tools back into their designated slots. In this case (pun intended), the parts were easily stowed and the case could be buttoned up.

The next thing I noticed is what I would call “built-in” nozzles. Most of the hand-held sprayers that I’ve used utilize a type of two-part metal nozzle wherein you pick the fluid tip size based on your material. You then insert a matching needle tip, which is prone to getting lost, even if just dropped onto carpeting or grass, not to mention floating around at the bottom of a tool box. These needless nozzles seemed like a bonus and definitely were.

I set out to paint the exterior of one of my wooden sheds, which was in serious need of painting. After power washing it, scraping off some old paint and waiting for it to dry, I filled the 1300-milliliter (approximately 1/3rd gallon) that works with the iSpray nozzle with an inexpensive, acrylic-based exterior paint and primer in one. I attached the “iSpray” nozzle, which is supposed to mimic the texture of a roller, and plugged in the sprayer. Since it was just an outside shed, I eschewed practice and fine-tuning in water or on cardboard and went straight for the shed.

Tuning and Usage

As expected, some fine-tuning was required. I ended up with a few drips, but that was entirely user error and not a result of the settings, which I had adjusted based on the usage—having set the “X-boost” power dial (I.e., the air power) to the middle of its range and the material flow control to the middle of its range. Also, I had the spray width set to wide, and after some technique adjustments, this worked out to be a great combination of power and volume for the paint.

I went through the first container of paint rather quickly due to my futzing around with the technique. As such, I was a little worried about how much paint I was going through. But by the time I was onto my second container of paint, I was getting great distance and coverage. I was able to get a single coat onto approximately 60 square feet with less than 1/3 of a gallon of paint. This amount is spot on if estimating that I can spray 150 to 200 square feet per gallon.

The coating was even at the start and end of the spray cycle, as well as at the edges of the spray pattern. I used the common “overlap” technique with horizontal paths and completed the edges with the spray width set to the narrow setting. The nozzle cleanup was quick and painless. I was really pleased with the results: The shed went from a sad and dreary backyard eyesore to looking like a proud member of the outdoor decor.

Pros

• Carrying case
• Multiple nozzles and containers
• Easy to clean
• Detail finish and spray at the same time
• Variable air power control
• Can use stains, enamels, paints and more

Cons

• Not great for large projects
• Pricier than most handheld HVLP sprayers

Why Trust Us

I’ve been painting homes for nearly 40 years, and while much of the process remains the same, the paints and sprayers have improved greatly. I’ve been using modern DIY and professional sprayers for a couple of years and have been impressed with their capabilities, especially at such reasonable prices.

When I learned that I would be reviewing a selection of paint sprayers, I was eager to find out firsthand how they would stack up. I reviewed the equipment from the vantage point of a non-professional, intent on offering DIYers an idea of what each sprayer could and could not do. My review offers potential consumers a realistic and practical guide to an array of sprayer options.

FAQ

Do you have to thin paint for Wagner Flexio 3500?

You don’t have to thin paint for the Wagner Flexio 3500, but sometimes, it may be necessary. Wagner advises users that most paints do not need to be thinned and that optimal spray performance can be achieved by adjusting the airflow, spray width and material flow control. If thinning, it’s advised to delete the material in steps of 5-10%.

Can I use Wagner Flexio 3500 to paint a ceiling?

With some practice, spraying a ceiling can be done without too much mess. You’ll want to be cautious of where you align the pickup tube when using the Flexio to paint a ceiling. It’s ideal to spray with a horizontally held sprayer, but that isn’t possible when painting a ceiling. So, when painting a ceiling with the Flexio 3500, point the pickup tube toward the handle of the sprayer. The paint is then taken up in the tube when the sprayer is pointed upward. Wagner warns that the sprayer should not be used at greater than a 45-degree angle. If the angle is too steep, material could get into the turbine and damage it. Eye protection and a mask are always recommended when using a sprayer, but especially important when painting a ceiling.

Can I leave paint in my Wagner paint sprayer overnight?

Ideally, you wouldn’t leave paint in the sprayer overnight because the paint may dry on the nozzle and clog it. The system is somewhat “closed” to the elements, so it is ok to leave paint in the sprayer for short periods between use, such as overnight or for a break. Before using the sprayer, after it has sat, be sure to mix the paint in the container. Also, it will likely be necessary to remove paint from the hardened nozzle tip. Once it’s cleared, you should be good to go.

What Other Reviewers/Experts Had to Say

Five-star The Home Depot reviewer Brian1 claims, “I purchased the Flexio 3500 about six weeks ago when we were in the middle of remodeling our master bathroom. We had urethane-finished birch wood that we wanted painted. The sprayer delivered beyond our expectations. The finish was exceptional (factory-like finish). It was easy to use, and clean-up was a breeze.”

“So far, I’ve used it to paint doors and the whole exterior of my stucco house. It worked well. On stucco, it does cover in one go, but be ready to buy extra gallons of paint. I tried rolling, and the spray would cover way more in such a short time! It is super easy to clean thoroughly, ” says 5-star reviewer fonf64.

Eric on The Home Depot gives the Wagner Flexio 5 stars and says, “I bought this item just in case/backup for doing my house. I ended up having to use this for the whole house. The house came out great. Saved me about $20,000 to do this my self. The one thing that I wish there was an easier way to have a faster fill method. I believe that is what took me the longest to do. But besides [that], it’s great with thick and thin paint. I recommend this product 100 percent.”

Wagner Flexio 3500 vs Earlex HVLP Sprayer

Lately I’ve been using an Earlex HVLP sprayer for my smaller projects. The Earlex HVLP sprayer is a good comparison for the Wagner Flexio 3500 as they are both handheld HVLP sprayers. The Earlex comes in at a lower price and is lighter so let’s take a look at the usage.

The Earlex is differs from the Wagner in that it uses nozzles that are matched to your material and desired finish. On the other hand, the Wagner just has two nozzles—one for fine spraying and one for wider, textured spraying. Another key difference is that the air cap, either fine or wide spray, must be selected on the Earlex. The Earlex does not come with a case and it’s important to keep all the nozzles together with the sprayer. I keep my nozzles and tools in a plastic bag but still don’t have a convenient way to ensure that the bag is with the sprayer. It’s these factors along with the cleanup that makes the Wagner a clear winner for being easier to use.

Final Verdict

At first, I wasn’t convinced the two-nozzle solution was going to be adequate. It proved to be more than adequate and I’m sold. A lot of the experimentation and guesswork were taken away by knowing that the either nozzle could handle whatever material I was going to use. Plus, the cleanup was such a breeze that I don’t dread pulling out the sprayer. This sprayer will be taking a front-and-center space in my collection of painting tools. I look forward to more projects with it.

Where to Buy the Wagner Flexio 3500

You can pick up the Wagner Flexio at The Home Depot or order it online for under $180.

Wagner Flexio 3500 Paint Sprayer

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The post I Tried Out the Wagner Flexio 3500 Paint Sprayer and the Results Were Flawless appeared first on Family Handyman.

Read on for pro tips about why and how to thin latex paint and what products to avoid from two paint industry pros Rachel Otto from Fleury Lumber and Shayne Pancione from Pancione Painting Plus.

What Is Latex Paint

Latex paint is a water-based paint used for interior and exterior applications. Available in various sheens from flat to high gloss, latex paint is a durable and versatile paint product easily applied with a brush, roller or air sprayer.

Latex paint can be used on a variety of surfaces, including interior drywall, wood and plaster, as well as exterior concrete, siding and stucco. The synthetic resins in latex paint create a flexible surface that resists cracking and withstands temperature changes.

Unlike oil-based paint, latex paint only needs soap and water to clean up.

What Is Paint Thinner?

Paint thinner is a petroleum-based solvent used to thin and clean oil-based paints. Products labeled as “paint thinner” are typically mineral spirits, a lower odor and less toxic (when compared to other paint-thinning solvents), such as liquid solvents. Other paint-thinning options include turpentine, acetone and naptha.

While most paint thinners are used with oil-based paints, “there are some formulated to be used with latex,” Otto says. “Read the label to see if it’s compatible.”

Why Thin Latex Paint?

There are a few reasons why you might choose to thin latex paint.

If using a sprayer, thinning latex paint can prevent a clogged spray nozzle. “Follow your sprayer’s operating instructions,” Otto says, “These will include thinning ratios.”

Thinning also improves the flow and leveling ability of paint, which can reduce brush strokes and provide a smoother finish.

Thinning can also change the look of paint for specialized projects. “If you’re trying to get a distressed look when painting furniture, you can thin it,” Otto says.

Finally, slightly thinning paint can extend its coverage area. “It may make the color a little different,” Otto says, “but adding water will make it go a little further.”

How to Thin Latex Paint

Different methods and products are used to thin latex paint depending on the application method, but there is one universal step. “Make sure it’s very well mixed before attempting to apply it,” Pancione says. “This applies to brush, roller or spray.”

Also, follow the paint’s technical data sheet or label for recommended thinning parameters. “If it says, ‘Do not thin,’ don’t thin it,” Otto says. “If you do, the paint can crack, peel or not adhere properly to the surface.”

For Spraying

Follow the sprayer and paint manufacturers’ instructions for thinning paint when spraying. Typically, this will be done with clean, room-temperature water, a stir stick, a bucket and a measuring cup.

First, stir the latex paint thoroughly. Use a measuring cup to measure paint and water ratios in a clean bucket. Use a stir stick to mix thoroughly.

For Brushing

“Some paints are thicker, which can make application difficult,” Otto says. In this case, add a couple of ounces of water to make brushing easier (if allowed by the manufacturer).

Mix and pour paint into a clean bucket. Add water an ounce at a time until the desired consistency has been reached.

Synthetic products, like Floetrol, can also be added to paint. “This is designed to make the paint flow smoother, level out better and avoid leaving brush strokes or roller marks,” Pancione says. It makes brushing in trim a breeze.”

For Rolling

Follow the same thinning instructions for brushing and rolling. Adding Floetrol when rolling can minimize lap lines.

However, Otto doesn’t recommend thinning with water when applying latex paint with a roller. “It doesn’t give the look the manufacturer intends and can leave streaks,” she says.

FAQs

Can you thin latex paint with water?

Yes, you can thin latex paint with water (if it is recommended by the manufacturer). Do not use solvent-based products to thin latex paint.

Is acetone a paint thinner?

Yes, acetone is a type of solvent-based paint thinner, but it is better used to clean up paint than to thin it.

“Acetone is more for removing paint,” Otto says. “It can cause paint to separate if added as a thinner.” Acetone should not be used to clean water-based paint.

Can paint thinner remove paint?

Yes, paint thinners can clean oil-based paint from paint tools and surfaces, but it is most effective when the paint is still wet. For dried oil-based paint, acetone is the only paint thinner that could effectively remove it, but typically, this is a job left to stronger stripping products.

“Just be careful and use paint thinner in a well-ventilated area and wear a mask and gloves,” Otto says. “The fumes can be hard on the lungs if breathed.” Solvent-based paint thinner is not effective at removing water-based paint.

Does paint thinner ruin paint?

It depends on the paint. Adding a solvent-based paint thinner to latex paint will ruin it. However, paint thinner will not damage oil-based paint if added in small amounts.

About the Experts

• Rachel Otto is the paint department manager at Fleury Lumber in Easthampton, Massachusetts, specializing in Benjamin Moore products. She has 10 years of industry experience.
• Shayne Pancione is the owner of Pancione Painting Plus, a full-service residential and commercial painting company in Easthampton, Massachusetts. He has over 25 years of experience in the trade.

The post How to Thin Latex Paint for Spraying, Brushing, and Rolling appeared first on Family Handyman.

“The first thing you want to do is inspect the stucco for any damage, or cracks,” Mardis says.

• Walk around your house and assess the stucco.
• Look for cracks, chips and flaking paint.
• Note any cracks you can fit a credit card into (about 1/8 inch or larger). You’ll fix these before painting.

Test for alkalinity

“This is for new stucco,” Mardis says. “If the stucco isn’t fully cured, it will leach out compounds that are too alkaline, and will burn through the paint.”

• Use a pH test kit, which can be a pencil, paper strips or liquid, to check the pH. These are available at paint, pool and home improvement stores.
• Apply the strips, pencil or liquid (called phenolphthalein) to the stucco according to the instructions that came with the kit.
• Rinse with distilled water (if indicated), and watch for a color change. Usually, this will be bright pink. No color change means the stucco is fully cured.
• Stop your project if the pH is too alkaline (high). Stucco may take 30 to 60 days to cure.

Pressure wash the stucco

• Rent a pressure washer from a home improvement center, if you don’t own one.
• Add a cleaning solution that’s safe for stucco.
• Stand about 3 feet away from your house. “The distance is by feel to a degree,” Mardis says. “3 feet away is good. You can damage a substrate by being too close.”
• Pressure wash the stucco to remove dirt and impurities. “3400 psi is adequate,” he adds. “Start at the top and work your way down.”
• “Allow the stucco to dry thoroughly before painting,” Mardis says. “This may take up to a full day.”

Scrape and repair

• Use a trowel to scrape away flaking paint and loose stucco that needs repair.
• Apply textured stucco patching compound to hairline cracks. “The same goes for larger chunks that may be missing,” Mardis says. “Follow the instructions on the patching kit.”
• Wipe excess patching compound off the stucco. Use a damp paintbrush to dab and feather the edges if needed, so they won’t be visible after painting.
• Allow the compound to cure according to the instructions before moving forward.

Apply primer, if needed

• Prime new stucco before painting. Fresh stucco soaks up a lot of paint.
• Choose an acrylic primer that is appropriate for masonry applications.
• Use a heavy nap roller, 3/4 inch to 1 inch.
• Work from top to bottom, then side to side, to get full coverage.
• Allow to dry according to primer instructions before painting.

Apply paint

• Cut in around windows and doors with a small roller or paintbrush.
  • Use painter’s tape to get a clean line, if helpful.
• Apply acrylic latex paint. “Use a heavy nap roller, 3/4 inch to 1 inch, to paint stucco, so you get inside all the nooks and crannies,” Mardis says.
• Start by painting top to bottom, then go from side to side. “Apply the paint in multiple directions to get in all the areas of the stucco,” Mardis says.
• Work in small sections so you maintain a wet edge.
• Apply a second coat on rougher stucco, if needed, or use a paint sprayer.

Maintain the stucco

• Inspect your stucco once a year to check for cracks.
• Direct sprinklers away from stucco to avoid water staining or intrusion.
• Clean stucco once a year, or as needed, with a garden hose or low-pressure washing.

About the Expert

Kelly Mardis is the owner of Marcel Painting in Tempe, Arizona. Mardis first started painting in the Navy, and after his service, continued the trade as a professional painter. Marcel Painting specializes in residential and commercial interior and exterior painting throughout the greater Phoenix area.

The post How To Paint Stucco appeared first on Family Handyman.

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Rust-Oleum’s RockSolid coating is about as durable as it gets, with a proprietary formula made to last. This best garage floor paint has a high-gloss finish that stands up to grease, dirt, drips and just about anything else you can throw (or spill) at it—and looks good doing it. A blend of polyurea, urethane and epoxy, this garage floor paint comes premixed, which makes painting a garage floor easier than some other coating kits. It comes in six colors; black, tan, mocha, gray, dark gray and modern “griege”—with decorative color chips that’ll give your floor a terrazzo feel.

DIYers of all skill levels will find it easy to use Rust-Oleum’s RockSolid coating. After cleaning the concrete, apply it in small sections using a paint roller. You’ll be able to walk on it eight hours later, and in 24, it’ll be safe to pull your car back into the garage. It’s a low-volatile organic compound (VOC) product, too, so you won’t be overcome with chemical fumes when painting your garage floor.

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Best Budget Garage Floor Paint

Behr Premium Wet-Look Sealer

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Though it’s not technically paint, this clear sealer from Behr will give your garage floor a brilliant gloss while saving you money. This garage floor sealer is easy to apply and dries to the touch in under 60 minutes, so you won’t have to be ultra vigilant about backtracking when painting your garage floor. The acrylic-based coating won’t alter the color of any existing paint, so if you’re fine with your floor the way it is, Behr Premium Wet-Look Sealer will give it a nice gloss while adding plenty of protection.

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Best Acrylic Garage Floor Paint

Insl-X TuffCrete Waterborne Acrylic Concrete Stain Paint

$48.99 at Amazon

If water is a worry, this acrylic garage floor paint from Insl-X will give you peace of mind. Available in four finishes (clear, light gray, pearl gray and desert sand), it repels stains and moisture and creates a surface that’s beyond easy to clean. Your garage floor will look freshly painted for years to come.

Verified purchaser, J&L, says this paint is as good outdoors as it is indoors, making it smart option if you have an open-air garage or carport. “We had an ugly textured pool deck that is subject to high UV damage daily. We consulted with an expert exterior painter, and he said this was the product he uses. It covered the patching I did to the pool deck (chips, cracks, etc.) and they are completely hidden. The product went on thin, so it’s easy to work with. It dried rapidly, so it was easy with our hot weather to do two coats in a day. We did the first coat, and sprinkled sand on the top to give a non-slip texture. Excellent and durable product!”

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Best Epoxy Garage Floor Paint

Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield Garage Floor Coating

124.9914% OFF$107.33 at Amazon

Epoxy can be intimidating to inexperienced DIYers, but this complete garage floor painting kit makes it easy. It’s one-stop shopping, with almost everything you need for painting your garage floor in a single kit. It includes a two-part, water-based epoxy coating, decorative chips and a stir stick, along with detailed instructions on how to prepare and apply the product. (You can also find instructional videos from the brand on YouTube.) There’s also a bottle of concentrated cleaner to prepare your garage floor for painting.

Rust-Oleum EpoxyShield dries with a high-gloss finish that’s easy to clean with just soap and water and protects against drips and spills of fluids like gasoline, motor oil and antifreeze. It also protects the garage floor from abrasive road salt or debris that can be dragged in on your tires. Available in three colorways—gray, tan and tan gloss—one kit covers from 200 to 250 square feet.

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Best Non-Slip Garage Floor Paint

Insl-X Sure Step Acrylic Anti-Slip Coating Paint

$52.99 at Amazon

Insl-X Sure Step coating has a gritty texture, giving the soles of your shoes something to grip onto. It’s water resistant and available in seven different colors, including white, tile red, saddle brown, pine green, light gray, gray pearl and desert sand. Each gallon covers from 80 to 120 square feet, so unless you have a small one-car garage, anticipate purchasing multiple cans of this non-slip garage floor paint.

“I purchased 1 gallon of saddle brown to sample on my patio and I LOVE IT!” raves five-star reviewer, Richard. “Super durable, excellent texture and great rich brown color! And that’s just with one coat! I brushed it on in small sections, then went back over it to stipple the surface. I always feared walking across the slippery patio to get to the hot tub. My fear is GONE!”

What to Look for When Buying a Garage Floor Paint

When choosing a garage floor paint color, think about what’s important to you. If you don’t want to see tire marks and want to try and hide any stains, go with a darker color. If you’re looking to lighten up the space, try a lighter gray.

Concrete floor paint is just a tougher version of the paint that goes on walls and is by far the least expensive coating for a garage floor. It comes either latex- or oil-based. You roll it on just like other types of paint, so you won’t be surprised with tricky, unfamiliar steps. It’s also easy to touch up damaged areas or re-coat the floor completely.

Latex floor paint is easier to apply and clean up than oil-based paint. It dries to a low-sheen, flat finish while, oil dries to a high gloss. Oil-based paints must be used with a primer coat and are generally more durable than latex. Overall, floor paint isn’t as tough as other garage floor coatings and is especially vulnerable to road salt and other chemicals. Under typical conditions, you’ll have to touch up areas of the garage floor every year or two.

How We Found the Best Garage Floor Paints

At Family Handyman, we’re pros at dissecting data and using our expertise to extensively research the most widely available garage floor paints on the market. We looked at the materials used, read scores of real-world customer reviews and considered overall reliability and integrity of each brand. After gathering and comparing customer and product data from dozens of options, we were able to single out the best products to use when painting a garage floor.

FAQ

What is the best coating for garage floors?

In addition to garage floor paint, consider these other garage floor coatings:

Concrete Stain

Concrete stain is a translucent, decorative coloring that soaks into the concrete and creates a pigmented, marbled appearance that resembles natural stone. It typically requires two coats and is applied with a roller or sprayer and then immediately worked into the concrete with a nylon scrubbing brush.

The stain itself doesn’t protect the concrete, so after it dries, you rinse the surface and then apply one or two coats of urethane sealer to protect against moisture, chemicals and stains. Depending on the traffic your garage floor gets, you may need to wax the sealer annually, touch up the stain and reseal the floor every two years.

Concrete Sealer

Available in water- and solvent-based formulas, concrete floor sealers come in clear and tinted versions. Sealers are like floor paint but tougher. After paint, they’re the least expensive coating and they’re very easy to apply with a brush or roller. They dry to a clear satin or semi-gloss finish, depending on the product.

Acrylic/Latex Concrete Sealer

Like floor paint, acrylic/latex sealer is vulnerable to chemicals and isn’t as tough as an epoxy product, so it’ll benefit from an annual protective waxing or reapplication every few years. Acrylic/latex sealer will stick to a concrete floor better than urethane sealer, which is why it’s sometimes used as a primer for oil-based floor paint or epoxy.

Urethane Concrete Sealer

Urethane sealer is significantly tougher than acrylic/latex sealer but doesn’t bond well with bare concrete. It provides a clear, high-gloss finish that resists chemicals better than epoxy alone and is less likely to yellow in sunlight, which is why it’s used as a seal coat over epoxy and concrete stain. However, urethane sealer is more expensive than acrylic sealer, and solvent-based versions require the use of a respirator during application.

Can I just paint garage floor?

Yes, you can! Painting a garage floor can be messy and time-consuming, but ultimately, it’s a DIY project most people can tackle, regardless of skill level.

Is it better to paint a garage floor with a roller or brush?

Whether or not you should use a roller or brush when painting a garage floor will be determined by the type of garage floor paint you use. Always consult the manufacturer’s directions before deciding what painting tools you’ll need to purchase for the project.

The post Painting Your Garage Floor? Reach for the 5 Best Garage Floor Paints appeared first on Family Handyman.

But ripping out wood paneling isn’t the only option for that dark heavy wall covering. Wood paneling can be painted. It’s a less messy, less costly option than removing it and dealing with whatever material you find underneath.

Yet nothing’s that simple, right? To erase the dated look of paneling, you’ll need to deal with the telltale grooves that give away what’s lurking underneath. We called on an expert to help.

How To Cover the Grooves in Paneling

We asked Jeff Shipwash, who fixes and flips houses through his Knoxville, Tennessee-based business, Shipwash Properties, how his team deals with wood paneling during renovations.

“We actually encounter many homes that still boast wood paneling within,” says Shipwash. “In the past, we would rip it out, or modify it to make it appear more modern.” But if you want to keep the paneling and make it appear more like drywall, he says, “Prep work is critical in order to make sure you get a great finish.”

Step 1: Fill the grooves with joint compound

Shipwash says his team usually starts by filling in the groves with a quality joint compound, aka drywall mud or joint mud. He recommends USG joint compound. You’ll also need a putty knife.

“This step is only necessary if you desire the finished product to look more like [drywall] and less like paneling,” Shipwash says. “In my opinion, you need to fill in the grooves with at least two coats of drywall mud.” Also, sand between coats.

If you hire a contractor for the job, Shipwash says the cost will vary by the project size. “The average we spend per day on a drywall crew is around $1,000,” he says. “This is for a crew of two or three experienced contractors. I have seen a few solo contractors that bill around $400 to $500 per day.”

Step 2: Sand the entire wall

Once your two coats are complete, sand down the entire wall with fine grit sandpaper, ideally in the 180- to 220-grit range.

“This will do two things,” says Shipwash. “First, it will level the joint mud level with the rest of the wall. Second, it will scuff the paneling to allow paint and primer to better adhere and avoid chipping.”

After sanding, clean the walls with a damp sponge or rag.

Step 3: Add primer and paint

Next, apply a high-quality bonding primer. An oil-based primer works best. But if you don’t want to deal with the odor and the clean-up, opt for a stain-blocking latex primer instead.

Two coats of primer is ideal. You might get by with one coat if you’re painting with a darker color. Once the walls are primed to your satisfaction, Shipwash says, “you’re ready to paint the paneling to any color you desire.”

Note that in this article on painting wood paneling, our pro recommends an oil-based primer and paint, applied with a paint sprayer for the smoothest finish. That method calls for a lot of ventilation, equipment and clean-up. Water-based paints and primers will work, but applying them with a brush or roller won’t achieve the seamless look of a paint sprayer.

Is it Time to Rethink That Paneling?

Filling in paneling grooves with joint compound may be doable, but it’s labor-intensive for a DIYer.

“If you’re hiring a contractor to give your walls more of a [drywall] look, I honestly recommend just having them replace the paneling entirely,” Shipwash says. “This will result in about the same amount of labor time and the finished product will be better.”

Plus, maybe you shouldn’t be so quick to get rid of those grooves. “As a flipper,” says Shipwash, “I have noticed the trend of paneling to be coming back in style.” He says that many homeowners like to leave a wall of paneling as an accent to complement the surrounding, non-paneled walls.

“If you enjoy the look of the paneling but hate the color, skip the mudding step and go straight to cleaning, priming and painting.” he says. Or just clean the wood paneling and usher in a retro trend!

The post How To Deal With the Grooves When Painting Wood Paneling appeared first on Family Handyman.

Here to help explain ways to avoid peeling paint and how to fix it when it happens are two industry pros, Rachel Otto from Fleury Lumber and Joseph Umana from Painting Belen.

About the Experts

Rachel Otto is a Benjamin Moore paint specialist at Fleury Lumber in Easthampton, Massachusetts.

Joseph Umana is the owner of Painting Belen, a residential painting company in Western Massachusetts. Joseph is a licensed Home Improvement Contractor in the State of Massachusetts with nine years experience in the painting industry.

What Causes Peeling Paint?

Peeling paint is rarely caused by bad paint. “It’s usually bad prep work,” Umana says, but there are some other reasons why your paint might be peeling.

Moisture issues

Moisture from rain and snow, poor attic ventilation, overflowing gutters or even misdirected sprinklers can cause peeling paint on your home’s exterior. Water infiltrates the wood, causing the fibers to swell and stretch the paint film until it cracks. After it cracks the water continues to seep through, saturating the wood and breaking the paint bond— ultimately resulting in peeling paint.

Window sills, soffits and wood joints are particularly prone to this issue. Inside the home, the same thing can happen when water from plumbing leaks, leaky roofs or poor bathroom ventilation seeps into walls, ceilings and wood trim.

Bad paint conditions

Applying paint outside the manufacturer’s recommended application temperatures and conditions can lead to peeling paint.

“If it’s too cold, the liquids in the paint freeze before it has a chance to cure,” Otto says, “As it tries to dry, the paint will crack or peel.”

Painting in high temperatures or direct sun is just as bad. “You can get the same bubbling, cracking and peeling,” Otto says.

Painting wood that is not completely dry is also problematic. Otto explains that as moisture attempts to escape from wood during drying, it can push paint away from the surface, causing bubbling and peeling.

It’s also best to avoid painting outside if heavy rainfall is expected in the next 24 hours.

Not following dry times

It is especially important to follow manufacturer dry times before recoating to avoid peeling paint. Paint sometimes feels dry to the touch before it has hardened, but a second coat applied too soon can soften the first and create a weaker bond.

“If the paint can says to leave two hours between coats, wait the two hours,” Otto says.

Poor surface prep

Umana points to bad prep work as the main culprit for peeling paint. “You have to take the time to scrape, sand and clean really well,” he says, “You’ll regret it if you don’t.” Dirt, mildew and loose paint cause poor paint adhesion and must be removed before painting.

Make sure to use a primer as well, which is formulated to adhere to bare wood and other materials. Umana recommends using an oil primer for most exterior surfaces. “It forms a strong surface bond and is really durable,” he says.

Incompatible paint layers

Applying paint over another paint that is not compatible can cause layer separating and peeling. Putting oil or alkyd paint over latex paint is a common example of this phenomenon.

Oil paint is brittle when dry and cracks and peels when painted over flexible latex paint.

Time and exposure

All paint fails eventually. Exposure to the elements causes paint to dry out over time, crack and let in moisture that breaks the paint’s surface bond with the substrate.

How to Fix Peeling Paint

To prevent peeling paint from happening again, resolve any moisture issues, paint in good weather conditions, thoroughly prep and make sure paint layers are compatible. “Before painting over water damage, make sure the leak is fixed first,” Otto says. Follow these steps to fix peeling paint.

Scrape and sand peeling paint

Use a paint scraper to remove any loose paint. Wear a dust mask and use drop cloths to catch paint chips and dust. Be thorough and work methodically to remove all loose paint.

Use 100 grit sandpaper to smooth any scraped areas and remove any remaining loose paint. Sand down the edges of scraped areas to smooth the transition from paint to bare wood.

Caution: Houses constructed before 1978 may harbor lead-based paint. Scraping and sanding this paint can generate hazardous lead dust that can pose serious health risks. For more information visit the Environmental Protection Agency’s (EPA) lead safety website.

Clean and let dry

Use a damp cloth to wipe away any accumulated dust. Let the area dry before proceeding. For exterior work, Umana uses a leaf blower to quickly remove dust from large areas.

Prime

Wear gloves and apply primer to any areas of bare wood before painting. “It may take longer, but it makes the paint last longer,” Umana says, “It’s worth it.” He also recommends against using self-priming products, especially on exterior bare wood. “The bond is not as good,” he says.

For interior peeling paint, Otto suggests using a bonding primer to improve adhesion with drywall surfaces.

Paint

After waiting the primer manufacturer’s recommended dry time, apply two coats of paint to the prepared surface. Wear gloves and allow proper dry times between coats.

FAQ’s

Is it OK to paint over peeling paint?

No.

Painting over peeling paint is a waste of time and money unless you scrape, sand and prime first.

Does peeling paint mean water damage/mold?

It can.

“Peeling paint can be an indicator of moisture issues and potentially, mold,” Otto says, “It is something to look for.”

The post How To Fix Peeling Paint appeared first on Family Handyman.

Exposure to lead paint during renovation and repainting projects carries serious health implications. As a homeowner and landlord in New England, I know firsthand the seriousness of lead paint exposure. I had it removed from several properties to keep my family and tenants safe. Here’s how to identify lead paint.

With the help of two industry experts, Bob Carroll from Indiana University and Shayne Pancione from Pancione Painting Plus, we’ll learn when lead paint was banned, the threat it poses, and what to do if you discover it in your home.

About the Experts

Bill Carroll, Ph.D. is an adjunct professor of chemistry at Indiana University. The former vice president of industry issues for Occidental Chemical Corporation, he’s the principal of Carroll Applied Science in Dallas, Texas.

Shayne Pancione is the owner of Pancione Painting Plus in Easthampton, Massachusetts. A certified lead-safe renovator, he has more than 30 years experience in the painting industry.

When Was Lead Paint Banned?

Benjamin Franklin wrote a letter to a friend in 1786 warning of the dangers of lead, but it would be more than 100 years before the first ban was enacted — not in the United States, but in France, in 1909.

In 1951, Baltimore, Maryland became the first U.S. city to ban the use and sale of lead paint. New York City followed suit in 1960. However, it took more than a decade before Congress addressed it with national legislation, passing with the Lead Poisoning Prevention Act in 1971.

A complete ban on all consumer use of lead paint didn’t happen in the U.S. until 1978, when the Consumer Product Safety Commission prohibited its use in all consumer products, including paint, toys and furniture. However, this left millions of houses still coated with the toxic paint.

In 2008, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) issued the Renovation, Repair and Painting (RRP) Rule, mandating any projects that may disturb lead-based paint must be completed by lead-certified contractors, like Pancione.

Does All Paint Made Before 1978 Contain Lead?

No.

Lead paint was valued for its durability and faster dry times, but not all paint made before 1978 contained it.

Paint manufacturers began voluntarily removing lead pigments as early as the 1940s, as its dangers became more apparent. They began using non-lead pigments like zinc oxide instead and manufacturing new water-based, lead-free paints.

Lead also increased paint costs, so some lower priced paints never contained any.

Why Was Lead Paint Banned?

Lead is a naturally occurring element that’s toxic to humans when ingested or inhaled. “It is most dangerous to children because it can impact mental and physical development,” Carroll says. These include developmental delays, lower IQs and hyperactivity. Prolonged lead exposure can pose health threats to adults as well.

Despite the known dangers, it wasn’t until extensive research and public advocacy efforts in the 1960s and ’70s finally led to the total ban on lead paint. Research determined even low levels of lead exposure could lead to significant and irreversible health issues in children.

How Do You Know if You Have Lead Paint in Your House?

If your home was built before 1978, there’s a chance it contains lead paint, and the likelihood increases with the age of the house.

To know for sure, the home’s painted surfaces need to be tested for lead. You could hire a certified lead inspector or assessor with specialized equipment. You also could send paint chip samples to a laboratory that uses x-ray fluorescence. “This technique identifies specific chemical elements,” Carroll says.

If you’d prefer to test for lead yourself, get a home test kit sold at most home centers and hardware stores. “These tests are affordable and easy to use,” Pancione says. Test kits include a swab that changes color when it comes in contact with lead.

What Should You Do if You Have Lead Paint in Your House?

If you discover lead paint in your house, take these steps to mitigate the risk of exposure.

• Leave it alone: Do not disturb lead paint by scraping or sanding it. If it isn’t deteriorating, chipping or peeling, it’s best to leave it alone until you determine a plan to address it.
• Consider a professional risk assessment: A certified risk assessment determines the existence and extent of lead paint hazards in and around your home, and provides recommended actions to reduce exposure. This can include containment (encapsulate) or abatement (removal).
• Encapsulate: A specially formulated paint, encapsulate can seal lead paint in certain circumstances. It can’t be used on lead paint that’s chipping or peeling, or on movable surfaces like doors and windows.
• Hire an abatement company: If you decide complete lead paint abatement is best for your family, or a local agency suggests it, the EPA recommends hiring a professional abatement company. “The best and surest way to reduce the risk is to have it removed,” Carroll says.
• Take precautions with remodeling, repairing or painting projects: If you plan to do any projects that will disturb lead paint, hire a lead-safe certified home contractor to complete the work. “Certified renovators go through rigorous training to become certified and will take all necessary precautions,” Pancione says. The EPA also provides recommendations for DIYers to follow when completing home projects that mitigate lead paint exposure risk.

The post When Was Lead Paint Banned? appeared first on Family Handyman.

When it comes to removing paint you have several options and none of them usually seem appealing. There’s the chemical option wherein you pull on industrial-grade rubber gloves, PPE and lay out a tapestry of protective tarps. You read instructions, gather chemical-worthy containers, set aside a few sacrificial brushes and rags and get to work. When you’re done, egads, what do you do with all the leftover rags and chemical waste?

You might also be inclined to try brute force. After all, it’s a tried and true method. A little or a lot of sandpaper and elbow grease can get any job done but maybe not without a trip to the “crackabone.” That’s Cajun for chiropractor where I come from.

Methods to heat paint to remove it have been around for a while. Much of the equipment to do this is priced out of range for the casual and infrequent user. However, the Spengar Infrared Paint Stripper comes in at a consumer-friendly price and gets the job done.

What is the Spengar IR Paint Stripper?

This IR paint stripper uses standard 120v electricity to heat a ceramic plate that’s placed upon the surface containing the paint. It’s handheld and heats a surface approximately 10 inches by 2.5 inches, which seems to be just enough to cover a standard piece of molding or even a 2×4. It heats the paint to a point where it can be scraped off the wood, but not go so far as being a fire or health hazard by setting the wood or paint on fire or releasing toxic lead fumes if the paint contains them.

The Spengar stripper runs between 200 and 400 hundred degrees, which is high enough to heat most paints. For example, acrylics take a lower temperature to heat whereas something with multiple layers of paint may need a longer heating time or repeated exposure to heat. Also, the wood’s porosity is another factor.

VIA MERCHANT

We Tried It

Spengar IR Paint Stripper

This infrared paint stripper removes paint without chemicals.

Shop on Walmart

$154.99 at Amazon

Spengar IR Paint Stripper Features

The infrared paint stripper is a corded, electric device that uses 400 watts of power to heat its ceramic heating surface. Place the stripper on the surface of the item on which you want to strip paint with the metal casing. The heating element should be held approximately one-half inch from the surface. The casing around the device enables you to rest the machine upon the surface to be stripped.

Hold the device without the risk of being burned with the foam-covered handle. Setting the device’s top side down prevents it from heating a surface while the stripper is not in use. It weighs in at under 2.5 pounds making it easy to hold over items you wish to strip. Plus, the handle folds for easy storage.

How We Tested It

I set out to test the Spengar IR paint stripper on a couple of different types of paint on various surfaces. To keep the testing consistent, I did not use any boiled linseed oil or spirits to expedite or assist in the paint removal. Additionally, the older the paint, the harder it is to remove since much of it may have soaked into the wood and the paint is usually more dried out.

The user manual stated that acrylic paint requires a shorter heating time so I started there. Heating the paint to a point where it can be easily scraped off should take 10-20 seconds indoors or 20-30 seconds outdoors according to Spengar. My first attempt on old, acrylic paint on a soft wood resulted in the paint not being heated enough. I ended up heating the surface for about 35-45 seconds and after it began smoking, I was able to easily scrape off some of the paint.

The idea behind using a heat source to remove paint is to get the paint to a point where it is bubbling and smoking simultaneously. Reaching this state was proving to be challenging with the older acrylic paint on soft wood but after moving to a semi-gloss enamel on harder wood I was able to witness the magic. Again, I heated the surface for longer than I expected—probably 45 seconds until I began to see smoke. When I removed the paint stripper from the surface, I was pleased to see the formation of some bubbles. I took my 9-in-1 scraper to the paint and it took off at least the first layer. If I wasn’t able to strip all the paint, a second pass with the stripper did the job and even removed a layer of primer under the paint.

Pros

• No fumes
• No clean up
• Easy prep
• No need for specialized protective equipment

Cons

• Only clears off small areas at a time
• May require several passes

FAQ

Do infrared paint removers work?

Yes! With infrared heat, paint comes off surfaces quickly and gently, allowing you to scrape with little effort.

Are infrared paint removers safe?

Lead vaporizes at around 750 degrees. Infrared strippers get to about 400 degrees, so they don’t vaporize the lead. This makes them safer than heat guns, which can get much hotter.

What Other Reviewers Had to Say

“I hate stripping wood! Promised the spouse I’d take some trim in our kitchen down to the wood since they like the wood look,” writes Kantrell Cameron in her five-star review on Amazon. “Bought this IR stripper to hopefully make the process go faster and this thing is great.”

Verified purchaser D. Jones says, “We bought this to strip years of paint from windows in a 160+-year-old, 52-room building, once a Poor Home, now a Historical Museum, and if it died tomorrow, we’d buy another. Yes, it works that well.”

Joann also rates the stripper five stars and states, “We have an old house with various amounts of paint layers. After spending hours and hours of scraping, this is wonderful. It only takes minutes to strip areas that would have taken hours and it doesn’t produce dust or nasty fumes.”

Product Comparison

Most infrared paint strippers come in at a fairly steep price while the Spengar IR Paint Stripper comes in at a cost that is reasonable for the occasional user. This makes it appealing for users with one or a few items or projects that require paint removal. For the hobbyist or furniture restorer, it’s a great addition to your painting toolbox.

Final Verdict

Forget the mess, prep and clean up associated with smelly chemical paint strippers. With the Spengar IR Paint Stripper, you can now strip old paint in any location off of windows, doors and trim. This tool is a must-have for those interested in rejuvenating projects, all at an economical price.

VIA MERCHANT

We Tried It

Spengar IR Paint Stripper

This revolutionary new tool packages cutting-edge infrared technology for safe and efficient removal of paint at a price that DIYers and restorers can afford.

Shop on Walmart

$154.99 at Amazon

Find the Spengar Infrared Paint Stripper on Walmart and Amazon for $130-$140 and try out chemical-free paint removal.

The post I Tried the Spengar IR Paint Stripper and Love Removing Paint Without the Chemicals appeared first on Family Handyman.

As auto detailer Riky Flores puts it: “Paint correction is an art form, not a race.” It’s a process you can enjoy. But Robert Harper of Ziebart Corporation isn’t sure DIYers should try it. The tools and polishes can damage the vehicle’s clear coat if not applied properly, so Harper recommends deferring to the pros unless “the paint damage you are trying to correct is minor, and only in a small area of the paint.”

Harper has a point. A bad paint touch-up can hurt eyeballs, even with an exact color match. If you don’t match the sheen of the existing finish, take pains to blend the repair and keep any touch-up paint you apply away from other parts of the car, it can be a disaster. This is definitely a job for someone who pays attention to details.
And if you’re curious about answers to unique paint questions like: What is paint made of? , Does paint expire?, Does storing paint cans upside down actually work? How to paint leather furniture? Can you use exterior paint inside? or Can you paint on metal with acrylic? then look no further because we got you covered!

What Is Paint Correction?

The process of removing surface imperfections and restoring the original shine of a car’s paint.

“Automotive paint correction can be as simple as hand-buffing the painted surface of your car or truck with a quality wax to remove minor oxidation,” Harper says. “It can also be a very in-depth process requiring know-how, various power tools, pads and polishes that can help remove scratches and chemical etching from the paint.”

You can easily make scratches, nicks and oxidation spots disappear by spraying the whole car with fresh paint. When doing color correction, however, the goal is restoring the finish without completely repainting. It combines scuffing, rubbing and polishing with applying touch-up color when necessary.

How Much Does Paint Correction Cost?

Costs vary widely depending on the region of the country, the experience of the shop, and the level of correction needed. Some shops will charge by the scratch or by the panel, but most charge by the hour.

“In my experience,” says Harper, “$100 to $125 per hour is a realistic expectation.”

How Long Does a Full Paint Correction Take?

If you take your car to the shop, expect to leave it there for about two days. But it depends on the condition of the paint. A finish with multiple nicks and scratches will take longer to restore.

On the other hand, if the paint is in good shape and just needs some buffing and polishing to make it shine, you might get your car back on the same day.

Is Paint Correction the Same as Buffing?

No. Buffing is part of paint correction, but not the whole job.

The goal, as Flores puts it, is to “turn a dull finish into a mirror-like shine.” That involves removing swirl marks, fading from oxidation, scratches and etching from acidic sources like bird droppings and tree sap.

To do a complete job, you need a selection of abrasives, polishes and tools, and possibly some touch-up paint. You can often find an exact match at a car parts store, but sometimes you have to order it from the car manufacturer.

How Do I Know If My Car Needs Paint Correction?

It’s a little like deciding when to get a haircut. Some people like to keep their hair meticulously groomed, while others don’t mind letting it grow.

In general, you should consider paint correction if you can answer yes to one or more of the following questions:

• Is the finish dull and faded?
• Are there multiple spots left behind by washed-off tree sap or bird droppings?
• Are small areas of paint peeling or lifting?
• Can you see swirl marks or scratches in the finish when the sun shines?

Can I Do Paint Correction Myself?

Yes. I have done my own paint, and you can too. Flores has a few pro tips for getting great results:

• Start by thoroughly cleaning the car with soap and water.
• If you need to apply paint, use masking tape and paper freely to protect glass, metal and rubber from overspray.
• Assess the paint’s condition and hardness to choose the right pad and compound. Begin with mild compounds and light pressure and work your way up to more aggressive compounds and heavier pressure.
• Maintain a light touch when using a polishing tool. Let the tool do the work.
• Divide the surface into manageable areas to avoid overheating the paint and ensure thorough polishing.
• Use multiple passes. Overlaying light passes is better than one heavy application for depth and clarity.
• Wipe off polish residue frequently to evaluate your work and avoid buildup.
• When you’re done, apply a high-quality wax or sealant to protect the paint from UV rays, oxidation and environmental contaminants.

“Take your time and work methodically and with focus,” Flores says. “Rushing leads to swirls and uneven results.”

About the Experts

Richard Lopez (Riky) Flores is the owner of On the Run Detailing in Bakersfield, California. He started as a lube specialist and opened his detailing service five years ago.

Robert Harper is the director of product development and tech support for Ziebart International Corporation, an auto detailing chain. He trains and consults with auto detailing technicians nationwide.

The post What Is Paint Correction and How Does It Work? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Moss Green Exterior

The exterior of this home designed by @amyhuberdesigns features moss green siding (Eclipse by Sherwin-Williams) and black trim (Black Fox by Sherwin-Williams).

The farmhouse style is often done in black and white, but the green gives the home a fresh, unique look that stands out among the rest. Wood tone accents in the columns and garage doors add beautiful natural contrast.

Gray-Green Exterior

The gray-green color of this home from @frankgoodbuilders pairs perfectly with the gray and white tones in the stone facade. White trim gives it a crisp finish. Remember to test potential green exterior colors next to stone and roof colors for an accurate visual.

Forest Green Exterior

A bold, dark forest green color and bright white trim gives this charming lake house new life. Built in 1949, the home has been lovingly restored by @talkofthehouse.

Don’t be afraid to be a little daring with your exterior color. This house proves the risk is worth the reward!

Sage Green Exterior

Sage green shakes, white trim and touches of copper create a fresh, woodsy exterior for this beautiful Craftsman house from @landschute.

Sage green is a good choice if you want a color that adds character and interest, while still feeling neutral. This particular sage features blue undertones, which play nicely off the cool tones of the stonework.

Muted Green Exterior

This brick house from @sparrowconstruction.co is painted in an earthy green color that almost looks gray.

Be sure to view your exterior green color samples at different times of day to see how they look in different lighting. A versatile color like this one might look like a fresh sage green at times, or a muted gray-green six hours later. Check out Oil Cloth by Benjamin Moore for a similar look.

High Contrast Green Exterior

This home, designed by @growingupgowler, features rich, dark-green siding paired with light stone veneer. The high contrast makes a big impact, and stands out among all the white homes on the block.

The color, Forestwood by Sherwin-Williams, is the perfect balance of bold and classic. It’s eye-catching and modern without being overwhelming or garish.

@splorin.lauren raise your hand if you would paint your house yoga pant green 🙋🏻‍♀️ #homereno #diy #exteriorpainting #greenpaintcolors @Lauren ♬ Boogie Shoes – KC & The Sunshine Band

Olive Green Exterior

Your green color inspiration can come from anywhere. Just be sure to test a sample before ordering enough paint for your whole house.

Seen here, a color @splorin.lauren loved on the inside of her home, looked completely different on the exterior. She eventually landed on this beautiful, dark olive green that believe it or not, was inspired by … her yoga pants!

@mykelzzzzz Watch me paint my door trim emerald green 🚪💚 Long story short, I am an esthetician and I did full body waxing for about 7 years. Once I was giving this lady a Brazilian. She told me she worked for HGTV plus several well known paint companies. She also happened to be the person tasked with deciding which color trends to promote every year. So, she knew a thing or two about design and paint. She told me about this paint trick to make a door look bigger and better! I am happy to finally bring her advice to life, on my door. . . . . . #hgvt #fyp #foryoupage #familylife #marriedwithchildren #design #painttrends #painttricks #frontdoor #emeraldgreen #momsoftiktok #houserenovation #houseexterior #boiseidaho #learntopaint #dogsoftiktok #watchmepaint #makemefamous #blowthisup #exteriordesign #diyproject ♬ Makeba – Jain

Emerald Green Front Door

If you don’t want to commit to painting your entire house green, try it as an accent. Green trim or a green front door can transform your exterior, and it’s easier and more affordable to execute.

Watch as @mykelzzzzz paints her front door and trim Emerald by Sherwin-Williams. Painting the trim to match the door makes a bigger impact.

The post 8 Refreshing Green Exterior Paint Colors appeared first on Family Handyman.

According to the National Floor Safety Institute, walkway surfaces are responsible for 50% of slip-and-fall accidents. Luckily, there’s a way to make your walkways less trecherous.

Nick O’Keefe, owner of Oak City Coatings, says adding sand to paint can increase traction, preventing tumbles on slick decking, driveways or porches and making your home safer for seniors. “You can also add sand to wall paint to give different faux finishes and textures,” he says.

We asked experts about when to use cost-effective, DIY-able sand texture for traction or aesthetics, how best to apply it, and what alternatives exist.

(Related: if you’re curious about answers to unique paint questions like: What is paint made of? , Does paint expire?, Does storing paint cans upside down actually work? How to paint leather furniture? Can you use exterior paint inside? or Can you paint on metal with acrylic? then look no further because we got you covered!)

How To Add Sand To Paint

To achieve an effective texture for walls or traction for floors, follow these tips.

Select suitable sand

Don’t grab a bucket of sand from the beach. “Using sand from the outdoors adds dirt and contaminants to your paint,” says Nick Slavik, owner of Nick Slavik Painting and Restoration Co. “And the size of the granules are generally too large.”

Overly large grains won’t adhere as well to a wall or floor and can look unsightly. On flooring, they can also be uncomfortable underfoot.

Slavik says some companies make silica sand additives for paint. “They are a uniform granule size and clean,” he says.

Fine sand marketed for use on walls can add subtle aesthetic texture, but you need a coarser grain additive marketed for use on floors for traction. Slavik says manufacturers will recommend the amount to add depending on the use.

Pick appropriate paint

When adding sand for traction, Slavik recommends using specific floor paints for added durability in high-traffic areas. Choose a mold-resistant exterior paint formula for wooden decking or another outdoor surfaces.

Note: O’Keefe says adding sand doesn’t work well with semi-transparent stains. “These penetrating stains work their way into the wood, leaving the texture on top,” he says.

For textured walls, Slavic says “use a high-quality, premium wall paint for good coverage and usability.” Water-based acrylic paints work well for blending and adhesion.

Properly prep the surface

Prepare walls or floors for painting by removing peeling coatings, repairing surface imperfections, cleaning and adding a coat of primer. This provides an even finish and maximum adhesion so it lasts a long time.

Mix in the sand

Thorough mixing is key. “Otherwise, you can run into an uneven texture application due to the sand clumping together,” O’Keefe says.

Paige NeJame, owner of CertaPro Painters, South Shore and Boston, says improper mixing can also lead to sand coming loose after application.

How much sand you add depends on the desired finish and the sand type. “The manufacturer of silica sand additives will have recommendations,” Slavik says. In general guide, add about one part sand to every four parts of paint. Too much sand creates problems with paint adhesion.

“Have the paint store add the silica additive and shake it using their industrial paint shaker,” Slavik says. Once home, stir with a paint stirrer or drill attachment. “While using, stir every few minutes to keep the sand from settling,” Slavik says. Test the mixture before applying it across the entire surface.

Mixing can be messy. Place a plastic sheet, dropcloth or old newspapers under the paint can to protect the surrounding surfaces and furniture from spillages.

Apply the paint

Slavik says it’s important to use premium brushes or rollers and to keep a “wet edge” when working on walls or flooring. “This is where you [brush or] roll only sections that you can do while the paint is still wet,” he says. “This gives you a professional, even finish with minimal lap marks or shine differences.”

Apply a second coat of plain paint

Add a topcoat once the first coat is fully dry. Using a sand-free coat of paint on walls or floors seals in the sand, extends the life of the paint job and provides a more even finish.

When adding sand, finishing with a coat of clear floor sealant provides the same advantages as an extra coat of paint. It also offers extra moisture- and stain-resistant properties for high traffic surfaces. Be sure to select a sealer suitable for use with the paint and surface material.

The texture on flooring eventually wears away underfoot, meaning reapplication is typically required every two to three years.

Does It Work To Sprinkle Sand on Wet Paint?

Yes, you can sprinkle sand onto wet paint for traction.

O’Keefe recommends the “broadcast method” for an even textured result on floors. He says this involves “applying a coat of paint in smaller sections and, while wet, broadcasting the sand onto the wet area.” The preferred method of most floor installers, O’Keefe says this works well with heavy or coarse textures and lets you lay as much texture as you like.

You can sprinkle the sand by hand from a bucket. However, most professionals rely on specialist aggregate sprayers for even distribution. These products are available for rent from some home improvement retailers.

Other Materials To Add To Paint for Sand Texture

Sand is not the only thing you can add to paint for traction or texture. Consider the following options.

Perlite

“Perlite particles are light and don’t settle as quickly as sand does, making them easier to mix and apply evenly,” NeJame says. This makes them a convenient choice for texture on walls.

While perlite’s less-abrasive texture is more comfy under bare feet than sand, Nejame says it might not offer as much traction. If you’re considering it as a non-slip flooring option, test a sample before buying in bulk and covering a large floor.

Joint compounds

Adding joint compound, made from a mix of gypsum and limestone, creates a thick textural paint that can mimic a decorative, marble-like Venetian plaster finish. It doesn’t have anti-skid properties, so don’t add it to paint for traction purposes.

Other ground materials

“Other ingredients you can add to paint are textures like ground walnut shells or aluminum oxide,” O’Keefe says. Both of these coarse products can be used for texture or traction.

For texture on walls, you could also try partially soluble coffee grounds or insoluble cornmeal. Just keep in mind these can tint light paint colors. Never select soluble additives, which will completely dissolve in the paint.

Other Ways To Gain Traction on Surfaces

If you don’t fancy the messy job of mixing sand or other additives into paint, there are other options for creating non-slip surfaces.

• Non-slip paint formulas: “It’s really best to buy paint that comes pre-mixed with an anti-skid additive,” NeJame says. It’s convenient and provides an even and durable finish when you want traction.
• Anti-slip deck strips or textured tape: “The narrow non-slip strips are often made of fiberglass and come in colors that blend with the deck’s paint,” NeJame says. Alternatively, you can apply tape (often to stair treads). “This is low cost and more suitable for commercial applications where aesthetics aren’t the primary goal,” NeJame says. “We’ve installed these with glow-in-the-dark properties for extra safety.
• Textured rubberized coatings: NeJame says these adhere to the surface, providing a non-slip effect.
• Area rugs: O’Keefe recommends these. They’re commonly applied to indoor surfaces, but outdoor rugs for decks or porches are available.

About the Experts

• Paige NeJame is the owner of CertaPro Painters. They provide interior and exterior painting and carpentry services in the Boston suburbs and along the South Shore of Massachusetts.
• Nick O’Keefe owns Oak City Coatings, a paint company in Raleigh, North Carolina. They service interior and exterior painting for residential and commercial projects.
• Nick Slavik is the owner of Nick Slavik Painting and Restoration Co, a premier painting contractor in New Prague, Minnesota.

The post When Should You Add Sand To Paint? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Spray-painting calls for skill, to be sure. But it’s an easy skill to acquire with practice, and you can do a great job even if your technique isn’t perfect.

You’ll hear the same thing from every painter, professional or not: The quality of the final results depend more on the time and attention you’re willing to put into preparation than on the actual application of the paint.

I was a professional spray painter for many years. Although I’ve moved on to writing, I still occasionally break out the equipment to help friends with their interior painting projects. Here are some of the things I do while planning a job, executing it and cleaning up.

Get Enough Paint

After you’ve decided which paint to use, check the label for the coverage. Most products cover about 400 square feet per gallon. That figure may be lower if you opt for an all-in-one paint and primer or some other high-solids product.

Next, take the time to accurately measure the wall and ceiling space you have to cover, subtracting the space occupied by doors, windows and cabinets. Finally, plan for two coats — one is never enough — and add five to 10 percent more paint to account for overspray.

Pro tip: If you buy paint in one-gallon cans, mix it in a five-gallon bucket to ensure color and sheen uniformity.

Clear the Room

Don’t assume your prized sofa will be safe if you simply cover it with a drop cloth. If overspray doesn’t get it, an accidental spill might.

Besides protecting your furniture, moving it out of the room gives you more space to work and prevents the scenario where you’re trying to reach a corner obstructed by a heavy object.

Use Canvas Drop Cloths

After all the furniture is gone, cover the floor and any items you couldn’t remove (like built-in cabinets) to protect them from overspray.

Definitely go with canvas drop cloths. They’re heavier than plastic or paper, and the edges won’t lift if you get too close with the sprayer. Most importantly, they absorb overspray rather than letting it form a slippery film on the surface.

Get a Masking Machine

A masking machine (aka a hand-masker) is a simple, inexpensive hand-held device with one roller for masking paper and another for masking tape. It automatically sticks the tape to the paper and to the wall as you draw the machine in a straight line.

This tool cuts in half the amount of time you spend masking off doors, windows and other obstructions.

Use the Right Sprayer

You’ll need an airless sprayer for painting interior walls. When I worked professionally, the only ones available came with a pump that extracted paint from a can. A high-pressure hose connected it to the spray gun.

These are still the best to use for large jobs. But if you’re only painting one room, consider a handheld airless sprayer. They’re really easy to use, especially cordless models, and they do just as good a job. The one drawback: The attached canister only holds a quart, so you must refill it frequently.

Pro tip: If you’re spraying interior woodwork with a clear finish, like varnish, consider renting an air sprayer (aka HVLP sprayer) and a compressor if you don’t have one already. An air sprayer creates a finer spray pattern than an airless one. The pattern is easier to control and leaves a more uniform, splotch-free finish.

Work Safely

Unless your idea of a good time is washing dried paint off your body, cover every square inch of yourself, including your head and hands. And don’t forget to wear goggles and a respirator.

Test Before You Spray

Keep a large piece of cardboard or scrap plywood handy to test the spray pattern before you start painting the walls. This way you’ll determine how far you need to overlap each stroke to prevent streaking.

You’ll also learn quickly if the paint needs to be thinned. If it does, the sprayer will spit it out in globs. Better to have that happen on a test surface than the wall.

Use the Right Spray Painting Technique

Spray in a vertical or horizontal pattern, overlapping each stroke by half with the next one.

Despite your best efforts, some streaks may remain. Don’t try to correct these by loading on more paint or you’ll get drips. If you can see streaks after you’re done, you need another coat. On large surfaces, avoid streaking by spraying in a crisscross pattern, first horizontally and then vertically, or vice versa. If it still doesn’t look good to you, then here’s how you can safely remove spray paint.

Pro tip: If you do get drips, wait for the paint to dry, then scrape off the drips with a razor. Don’t try to wipe them off while the paint is wet.

Clean Up To Prevent Clogs

It’s extremely important to clean your spray equipment after every use to prevent clogging.

Spray excess paint into a bucket, then run the appropriate thinner through the machine until the spray is clear. Finally, disassemble the sprayer and clean the parts separately.

Pro tip: An airless sprayer will apply oil- and water-based paints. But oil-based paints are high in VOCs, and painters seldom use them for interior painting. In some states, it’s illegal. You’ll probably clean up with water.

The post Pro Tips for Interior Painting with a Sprayer appeared first on Family Handyman.

Black and White

One of the most popular color schemes on brick houses is black and white. It’s a timeless combination that looks good on almost any style of exterior.

Before the paint job, this home from @tatianahndz featured dated pink brick that had to go. The crisp white color gives the home new life and disguises some of the busy brick patterns.

Gray

This old brick house from @interiorsaddict looks sleek and modern with a simple gray paint job. She hired professional painters who gave the brick a thorough pressure wash, one coat of primer and two coats of gray paint.

Choose a gray with warm undertones to avoid the stark prison-gray look. Details like bright white window trim and plenty of green plant life soften the finished exterior and add curb appeal.

Limewash

Exterior paint specialists @classicfinishes specialize in limewashed brick. Limewashing is done by cleaning the brick, dampening the surface, then applying limewash paint.

Once the paint starts to dry, water is used to wash off some of the paint, allowing peeks of the original brick color to show through. The result is a distressed, old-world finish. Classic Finishes recommends hiring a professional for best results.

Beige

Choose a beige color for your brick house if you want to brighten the exterior but don’t want it too stark. A warm beige like the one used on this house from @fultonparkdesigns looks updated yet timeless, as if the brick was always meant to be this color.

Black trim and dark-gray accents further modernize the overall color scheme and provide the perfect amount of contrast.

Black

Committing to a completely black house may sound intimidating, but in some instances it works!

Watch the transformation of this brick house by @rachelperson_realtor. The black paint gives the mid-century ranch house a bold new look that’s stunning against the white snowy backdrop. A pastel front door and gold address numbers soften all the black.

Blue

Neutral colors are the safest route when choosing exterior paint, but don’t be afraid of color. This brick house from @theorganizeddesignco is painted dark blue (Waterloo by Sherwin-Williams) with gorgeous results.

The warm gray-blue color makes the cedar wood and white accents pop. What was once a forgettable exterior in transformed into the shining jewel of the neighborhood!

German Smear

German smear isn’t exactly a paint color; it’s a technique that gives your brick a charming, old-world style.

To achieve the look, mortar (usually white) is spread across the face of a brick facade with a trowel, then partially wiped off with a wet sponge. The dried mortar gives the wall a lighter color and more texture, reminiscent of a European cottage.

Tricolor

Watch as @arlenemurals paints this brick house with three shades of gray. She paints each brick individually, creating an intentionally haphazard pattern as she goes. Then all the bricks get a brush of white for consistency, while the color variation still shines through. No doubt it’s time-consuming, but the results appear to be worth it.

The post 8 Exterior Brick Paint Color Ideas To Transform Your Home appeared first on Family Handyman.

We spoke to industry experts Chris Burke, a professional faux finish painter, and Frank Campanelli, owner of a full-service painting company. They offered tips, tricks and product recommendations to help DIYers achieve great results.

What Surfaces Can Be Painted To Look Like Wood?

Drywall, plaster, metal, concrete, medium density fiberboard (MDF) and plastic can all be painted to look like wood. Different materials may require different kinds of surface prep.

Use the Best Paint

Water-based acrylic paints are the go-to option for pros and DIYers alike. Fusion Mineral Paint, a 100% industrial-grade acrylic resin paint, is a favorite among DIYers, especially on furniture. It comes in various colors, features a durable matte finish and comes with a built-in topcoat.

Pros like Burke and Campanelli thin their paint with additives to create a glaze. “You put an agent in the paint that slows down the drying time, so you can work with it longer,” Campanelli says. “It makes the paint thinner, but still adds color.” Burke likes the Golden Artist Colors’ Open line for the same reasons.

When choosing colors, begin by determining which wood species you would like to emulate. Burke recommends finding examples online, then identifying the colors that exist in that piece to determine yours. The lightest tone will be your base coat, with any darker tones layered on top.

“A lot of times I’ll use Van Dyke Brown or Raw Umber or Burnt Umber and mix that in the glaze for the topcoat,” Burke says. “I’ll put these over a lighter base.”

How To Create a Wood Look With Paint

“Whether you’re doing oak or walnut or mahogany, it’s usually a four-layer process,” Burke says, “Then a clear topcoat.” Make sure to let each paint layer dry thoroughly before adding the next to avoid mixing colors.

• Prep: Start with a clean, smooth and properly primed surface.
• Base coat: Apply your lightest paint or glaze color to the entire surface with a brush. Like the primer, keep brush strokes in the same pattern and direction as you want the final look.
• Flogging coat: Flogging is a brush technique that creates a speckled texture in the coating, mimicking wood pores in real wood surfaces. “You put your glaze coating on with a regular brush, then slap it lightly with the sides of a three-inch or two-inch brush to make little tic marks in the background,” Burke says. If using paint, apply a thin layer so you don’t block out the base coat entirely.
• Add wood grain detail: This is the most technical and artistic step. Both pros recommend practicing these techniques before attempting on your final piece. What type of detail you add depends on the wood species you’re imitating, so study it to recreate its grain details. Generally, darker glaze or paint creates the lines and textures of real wood grain. Fine lines and patterns, knots and speckles can be painted with small artist brushes. These can then be dry-brushed to blend them into the surface. The goal here is subtlety and depth for a natural look. For wood with a pronounced heart grain, like oak, go with a product like Old Masters Wood Graining Tool. To use, apply a coat of paint or glaze to your surface, then drag and rock the wood grain tool across the fresh coating to imprint a grained texture into the paint. “Work in small sections at a time so that the coating is still wet enough to manipulate,” Burke says. You can also use sponges to blend or remove paint to create a realistic look.
• Toner layer: This is a final coating applied to the entire surface and adds a final subtle layer of color depth. If using paint, thin it down so it’s watery but still has pigment. The goal: Washing the surface with a little color, not covering up what has already been applied.
• Apply a topcoat: Burke and Campanelli recommend a separate clear topcoat, typically in a matte finish. This protects the surface but does not distract from the work. A water-based polycrylic can be applied in several thin coats with a brush.

About the Experts

Chris Burke, a professional faux finish painter, has owned and operated Mr. Faux, a residential and commercial faux finish business in Sterling, Virginia, for more than 30 years.

Frank Campanelli has owned Franklin Painting in Farmington, Connecticut since 1986. It’s a full-service interior and exterior painting company that offers faux finishes and paint customization.

The post Is There a Way To Paint Something So It Looks Like Wood? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Older rolled steel and galvanized roofs will require more frequent repainting, as well as rust management, to keep them looking good. If your metal roof is due for some attention, Daniel Haer, owner of DJ’s Painting in Bridgeton, New Jersey, calls repainting it yourself “a good project for homeowners.”

Learn why and how to do it right so your metal roof looks great and withstands the test of time.

Can You Paint a Metal Roof?

Yes. Any type of metal roof can be painted, including outbuilding and house roofs.

How often you need to paint it depends on its age and finish. According to Haer, most buildings today come with a rolled steel metal roof with a Kynar 500 finish, a high-performance weather-resistant coating. Finishes come in various colors for customization, so it’s becoming more popular in residential projects.

These newer roofs shouldn’t need repainting for decades, but color and protection will fade with exposure to ultraviolet rays and weather. At that point, paint renews that protective layer and keeps it looking good longer.

Older metal house roofs without a Kynar 500 or similar finish will need to be repainted every 10 years or so. Whether you paint your roof yourself or hire a pro depends on several factors.

If your roof came with a factory finish and it’s sound, without rust or bare spots, it’s a great candidate for a DIY paint job. Again, if under warranty, consult the manufacturer for recommended products and procedures.

“If you’ve got any rust already started, or you can see any exposed metal that doesn’t have a factory finish, call a pro,” Haer says, “They can properly remove and encapsulate the rust to prevent paint failure.”

If the pitch and height of the roof are low and within your comfort zone, it’s also a good candidate to paint it yourself. “As long as it’s an easily walkable roof, I’d say go for it,” Haer says, “But if the roof has a really steep pitch, that could be dangerous.”

If you feel uncertain or uncomfortable about being on your roof, best to hire a pro with the proper safety equipment and experience.

Painting metal roofs on sheds, garages and other outbuildings is definitely a DIY project due to the safer height and typically low pitch. Silver-colored galvanized metal roofs are good for sheds or outbuildings, and can be painted using the same steps as a rolled steel roof.

How To Paint a Metal Roof

Follow these steps to paint your metal roof the right way.

Consider the weather

For best results, prime and paint on days within your paint manufacturer’s guidelines for temperature and humidity. Look ahead and plan your project for a stretch of clear weather without precipitation. On a sunny day, try to start early to avoid painting on a really hot surface, which can affect paint performance.

Take safety precautions

Before climbing onto your roof, consider several safety protocols, tools and practices. These include:

• Enlist a helper, if possible, to hold the ladder in place and pass up tools.
• Identify any power lines near your home and avoid them when setting up ladders.
• Secure and stabilize the extension ladder properly against your house before climbing up. It should extend three feet beyond the eave.
• Wear sturdy, rubber-soled shoes.
• Wear a roof safety harness connected to a secure point, like a chimney, to prevent falls.
• Don’t work on the roof when it’s wet.

Prepare and clean

Use a pressure washer on a low setting to wash your roof, removing chalky residue, dirt or mold.

For stubborn organic growth, like algae or mold, Haer recommends spraying it with bleach, then rinsing with a low-pressure spray. Protect nearby bushes and landscaping with plastic. Wear eye protection, a face mask and gloves. Also, avoid walking on a wet roof to prevent falls. Allow the surfaces to dry thoroughly before proceeding.

For galvanized roofs, clean with a 1:1 vinegar and water mix to remove the protective coating, then rinse.

Apply primer

For this step, Haer recommends an alkyd oil-based bonding primer. Benjamin Moore’s SuperSpec HP Alkyd Metal Primer is a great product with excellent adhesion. Apply primer with a paint sprayer or extended roller and brush, starting at the peak and working down toward your ladder. Follow the manufacturer’s dry time before painting.

For galvanized metal roofs, use an acrylic metal primer, like Benjamin Moore’s UltraSpec HP Acrylic Metal Primer.

Apply paint

For rolled steel roofs, Haer suggests a high-quality exterior acrylic paint like Sherwin-Williams’ Superpaint or Benjamin Moore’s Regal. You can also use a direct-to-metal (DTM) paint like Benjamin Moore’s UltraSpec, but make sure to use an alkyd bonding primer underneath.

“We learned the hard way that if you put DTM paint directly on a roof surface, a lot of times it doesn’t bond properly,” Haer says, “So always start with an alkyd oil-based primer.”

Apply paint the same way as the primer, in the same order. Follow the paint manufacturer’s recommendation for dry and re-coat times.

For galvanized roofs, try Valspar’s Metal Building Siding and Roof Finish, an acrylic paint meant for metal roofs on outbuildings, barns and sheds.

About the Expert

Daniel Haer is the owner of DJ’s Painting in Bridgeton, New Jersey, a full-service company that provides commercial, industrial and residential painting services. In the 2000s, his company began painting the roofs of national chain locations in all 50 states for clients like McDonald’s, Walmart, The Home Depot and Walgreens.

The post The Right Way To Paint a Metal Roof appeared first on Family Handyman.

Garden Media Group’s 2024 Garden Trends report named Cyber Lime its Color of the Year. Overall, the report highlighted eco-optimism, which encompasses sustainability, climate change solutions, the future of horticulture and colors that echo nature.

Garden Media Group calls its mission instilling a passion for nature and love of gardening to all generations to improve environmental health and support human well-being. It describes Cyber Lime as vivid, punchy and powerful as it exemplifies the intersection of nature and technology during this moment in history.

We asked Garden Media Group president Katie Dubow and Happy Place Interiors owner and home stylist Melanie Zaelich why Cyber Lime was chosen, and how you can successfully incorporate it into your home.

Why Is the Color of the Year Significant?

Every year, design experts announce the new trends. Zaelich turns to the Color of the Year for guidance because it typically represents our current cultural state and our hopes for the future. “It’s a visual representation of where we are and where we want to go,” she says.

The Garden Media Group has picked Colors of the Year for 22 years. Besides being fun, Dubow says it helps her team stay innovative and inspires creativity throughout the industry.

Incorporating an annual trendy color into marketing campaigns, packaging and product design can effectively capture consumer attention while conveying a strong sense of modernity and in-the-moment relevance, she says.

“The annual announcement of the color has become a cherished tradition,” she says, “both within the design world and our garden world, infusing excitement and anticipation into the creative process, eagerly awaited by professionals and enthusiasts alike.”

It also gets DIYers excited about new projects to tackle.

Why Cyber Lime for 2024?

Zaelich turns to her color psychology and design background to assess why this color, and why now.

“I believe Cyber Lime was selected because it is bright, fresh and lively,” she says. “Green is the color of nature, of life and wellness. After the past few years, and all the current issues our world is facing, this bold color adds a splash of fun and vibrancy we all need. It’s truly the most optimistic color.”

Dubow says designers, inspired by the environment, are increasingly using colors that echo nature in a movement called greenterior. “More than color, greenterior mixes sustainability and environmental awareness with harmony in nature,” she says.

She also notes how Cyber Lime relates to technology. “As we veer more into a tech-forward world, this hyper-bright green signifies the powerful connection between nature and technology,” Dubow says. “The body and mind are stimulated and energized by this zesty, near-neon color.”

What Colors Go Best With Cyber Lime?

Despite its vivid appearance, Dubow says Cyber Lime can be used with many colors. Garden Media Group’s top pairings include:

• Black: The sharp contrast between Cyber Lime and black creates a sleek and high-impact look that conveys modernity and sophistication.
• Electric blue: Create a vibrant and energetic color scheme perfect for futuristic projects.
• Purple: This creates a visually striking contrast with Cyber Lime.
• Fuchsia: Combined with a bright green, fuchsia creates a bold, attention-grabbing color palette.
• White and tan: Cyber Lime also matches well with these neutrals.

However, Zaelich says the colors coordinated with Cyber Lime offer similar vibrancy and intensity. “It needs to be a crisp, clean, bright color,” she says. “Be careful putting Cyber Lime next to a color that is muted, earthy or dusty because they will clash.”

She recommends Cyber Lime with a rich navy blue, black, or charcoal gray. For a more colorful look, try it with fuchsia, vibrant teal or bright orange.

Ideas for Using Cyber Lime in Home Decor

According to Zaelich, Cyber Lime is an excellent color for decorating. “The vibe you want to create will dictate how much of this great color is enough and how committed you want to be with this color,” she says.

Though this color is bold, it has been around in various forms for decades. Here are a few tips for adding a punch of Cyber Lime to your home.

Decorative accents

Bring in a fresh pop of Cyber Lime without a permanent commitment.

Zaelich recommends adding the color to your living room, kitchen or home office with fun geometric artwork, table lamps, throw pillows and other non-permanent accents. Even a Cyber Lime accent chair would look powerful in a modern room or home office.

Plants

Neon lime houseplants are trending because they make the dramatic statement people are looking for, Dubow says.

“With their bright, eye-catching color, they shine equally in a corner of a room as on social media,” she says. “Most are also relatively easy to care for, making them a good choice for beginner plant parents.”

Examples include philodendron lemon meringue, golden violin and lemon lime; neon pothos; dracaena limelight; and limelight coleus.

Paint

This is a fantastic color to use for an accent wall or in a nook for a lively playroom, gym or entertainment zone.

Fixed features

If you really want to make a statement, Zaelich suggests using this color as a modern, stunning front door for a navy blue, charcoal or black house. In a mid-modern home, Cyber Lime would work well for a vertical backsplash tile in the kitchen.

The post Energize Your Home With Garden Media’s Color of the Year: Cyber Lime appeared first on Family Handyman.

Use a Pressure Washer

For overspray on a concrete garage floor or driveway, Sutter says to try a pressure washer. Depending on the type of paint and the time it’s been on the concrete, this method can work with or without harsh solvents.

“Water-based spray paints are easier to remove because they can often be dissolved or softened with water,” Sutter says, “making the cleanup process less demanding.”

Check the paint label. If your paint overspray is water-based, try using just water, or a soap and water mixture. If it just happened, you’re likely to dislodge it. “Oil-based paints, on the other hand, may require stronger solvents for removal,” Sutter says.

Scrub With a Stiff Brush

If you don’t have a pressure washer, try a stiff-bristle brush on your concrete garage floor or wall. Pick up a graffiti remover solution at a home improvement center and start scrubbing.

“The time spray paint has been on a surface can affect cleanup,” Sutter says. “Fresh overspray is generally easier to remove compared to graffiti that has been there for years, as it may have adhered more firmly to the surface.”

Sand It Out

For overspray on wood surfaces, you can try sanding it off. But, Sutter says, “Be careful with wood, as aggressive methods may damage the surface.”

Start with a fine-grit sandpaper, then move to coarser grit if the paint is thick and doesn’t budge. Go slowly and check the wood frequently. Sandpaper can quickly remove the top surface of wood, including finishes, like stain and varnish.

Power washers also work on wood, but the same advice for sandpaper applies: Use caution to avoid damage.

Use Automotive Clay

For overspray on a car, try what car detailers always have on hand: automotive clay bars, aka detailing clay or just clay bars.

Clay-barring removes tree sap, tar and other contaminants from automotive paint by transferring the stuck-on goo from the paint finish to a malleable clay bar. If you’ve ever used Silly Putty to transfer newsprint or pencil marks, you get the idea. If the paint is stubborn, Sutter says a pro auto detailer may have better luck.

Clean With Glass Cleaner

Did overspray drift onto your big bay window? “In some cases, glass cleaner with ammonia can work to remove the paint,” Sutter says. It’s worth a shot, especially if the paint is freshly sprayed.

Many commercial glass cleaners contain ammonia. It’s a powerful solvent that evaporates quickly for a streak-free shine. Or you can make your own ammonia-based glass cleaner by adding a half-cup ammonia to a gallon of water.

If that doesn’t work, try the next tip.

Scrape With a Razor Blade

Razor blades are amazing little tools that can definitely remove paint from windows. They’re also really sharp and can easily scratch your window (and cut your fingers).

Wet the window and always use a new blade. Apply even pressure at a slight angle and gently scrape off the paint. Don’t push down on the corners to avoid scratching the window. For more control, razor blade scrapers have molded handles for ease and safety.

Automotive Paint Thinner

If the clay bar didn’t work, or you happen to have automotive paint thinner in your garage, Sutter says this can work on overspray. But be careful. “Automotive paint can be sensitive,” he says.

Paint thinners, used correctly, can remove overspray without damaging the actual paint job. But your car is a valuable asset, so take it to a professional if you’re unsure, or if the job is sizable.

Use Acetone or Rubbing Alcohol

Traditional nail polish remover, aka acetone, can remove spray paint on glass, certain plastics and vinyl, Sutter says.

Acetone is a common ingredient in lacquer thinner, so Sutter says to use caution with plastics and vinyl. Test a small area to make sure it holds up. Rubbing alcohol is another option for plastics and vinyl.

Consider Repainting

If you’ve oversprayed onto your painted drywall, I’m sorry, you’re probably out of luck. It’s difficult to remove spray paint from your living room wall. That’s another reason why you should be in your open garage!

“You can try using paint strippers, but be cautious as they may damage the wall paint,” Sutter says. Test a small area to check the reaction. “For painted walls, consider repainting instead,” he says.

What Doesn’t Work?

The internet is filled with bad advice. If you need to remove spray paint, avoid these common misconceptions. “While these household items may have some cleaning properties,” Sutter says, “they are generally ineffective for removing spray paint from various surfaces.”

• Toothpaste;
• Vinegar;
• Baking soda.

Another no-no is steel wool. “[U]sing abrasive methods like steel wool can cause more harm than good,” Sutter says, “as it can scratch or damage the surface.”

The post 8 Best Ways To Remove Spray Paint appeared first on Family Handyman.

In these situations, Tim Conn, president and co-founder of commercial cleaning solutions company Image One USA, advises three strategies: spraying a sealant, applying a waterproofing top coat, or mixing a waterproofing additive with your paint.

Wood tends to swell and contract with changing humidity. That does a number on paint finishes that aren’t supposed to be outdoors.

“Without proper waterproofing, your painted wood can be susceptible to damage from water and moisture, resulting in cracks, warping and discoloration,” Conn says. Even worse, paint that isn’t waterproofed can fade and actually flake off.

This can be a real problem when you’re painting signs for outdoors. You’ve probably seen at least one nearly illegible wooden sign whose message has been lost to the elements. That won’t happen if you properly waterproof the paint.

Does Painted Wood Need Waterproofing?

Yes and no.

If you painted with an exterior latex or oil-based formulation, then no. Exterior paints are made to withstand outdoor conditions. They’re flexible, resist cracking when wood swells and contracts, and repel moisture. Most also control the growth of mold and mildew. If you need to re-coat wood with exterior paint, another coat of the same type is all you need.

Interior paint formulations aren’t as robust. So if you choose an interior enamel or wall paint for its color or some other reason, you’ll need to waterproof it. The same goes for chalk, clay and milk paint.

What’s the Best Moisture Damage Protection on Wood?

The best waterproofing sealant maintains the original appearance of the paint as much as possible, while protecting it from the weather. Conn recommends three options that perform these tasks to varying degrees of efficacy.

Spraying a sealant

“Sealants are a popular choice for waterproofing painted wood because they provide a protective barrier without altering the appearance of the paint,” says Conn. “They create a waterproof layer on top of the paint while still allowing it to breathe.”

However, sealants typically contain silicone, which repels new paint as effectively as it does water. Silicone can be difficult to remove if you choose to repaint your wood.

Applying a waterproof top coat

You can waterproof most types of paint by coating them with clear polyurethane or acrylic. This method can be as effective as spraying a sealant, but may change the paint’s appearance by adding a glossy or shiny finish.

In some cases, a waterproofing top coat may also add an amber hue, but that isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Even a small amount of pigmentation blocks UV sunlight and protects the finish.

Using waterproof paint

If you’re dead set on using an interior paint outdoors, you can mix in a waterproofing additive like Paint Proofer to help it repel water and resist mold and mildew. You can also choose a paint with a waterproofing agent already mixed in.

But Conn says these paints “may not be as durable as other waterproofing methods and may require more frequent touch-ups.”

How To Waterproof Painted Wood

If you need to waterproof painted wood, you have two options: sealing and top-coating. Conn recommends keeping the following tips in mind:

1. Clean and prepare the surface: Before applying any waterproofing product, make sure the painted wood is clean and free of dust and debris. Sand any rough spots or imperfections to ensure a smooth surface.
2. Test the product first: It’s always a good idea to apply it on a small, inconspicuous area of the painted wood first. This will help you determine if the product alters the appearance of the paint or causes any issues.
3. Follow instructions: Always adhere to the manufacturer’s instructions for proper application. This may include using specific tools or techniques, and allowing enough drying time between coats.
4. Apply more than one coat: Depending on the product, you may need multiple coats for maximum waterproofing protection. Be sure to allow each coat to dry fully before applying the next one.

Waterproofed Painted Wood Maintenance

Waterproofing finishes can deteriorate rapidly in harsh outdoor conditions, especially if the wood faces direct sun. Conn recommends regularly checking for any signs of damage or wear, and touching up as needed to ensure continued protection.

The post Your Guide To Painted Wood Waterproofing appeared first on Family Handyman.

When I worked at a refinishing business several years ago, my job entailed stripping, sanding and staining furniture to get it ready for spray painting. The person who did the spraying was a bit of a character. Co-workers jokingly attributed his unusually quirky personality to the amount of fumes he inhaled over more than 20 years on the job.

I always thought of him whenever I worked in my own spray booth, and the memory prompted me to always wear a respirator with fresh cartridges.

Thankfully, I can still count to 10 and back, so it appears my brain emerged from four years of daily spraying relatively unscathed. I tell this cautionary tale to remind anyone planning to spray paint that paint fumes are no joke. You need to protect yourself from them, even if you’re just using aerosol cans.

There’s one more thing you need to remember — spray paint fumes can be highly flammable.

Is Spray Paint Toxic for Humans?

Yes. Check out this warning from a typical spray paint can label: “Repeated or prolonged exposure to these chemicals without the use of a proper respirator can cause permanent brain damage, as well as damage to your lungs.”

But solvent-based spray paints aren’t the only products that present a health hazard. You’ll find similar warnings even on water-based spray paints and many insecticides.

The danger doesn’t come directly from the paints themselves, but from the solvents and chemicals that make the paints sprayable. Many products are loaded with volatile organic compounds (VOCs). This is what the Ohio Department of Health has to say about the dangers of these chemicals:

“Exposure to very high levels of VOCs may cause damage to the liver, kidney or central nervous system (brain and spinal cord). High levels may also cause vision and memory problems.”

Is It Ever Safe To Spray Paint Without a Mask?

No. In some situations, however, you’re less likely to be exposed to harmful VOCs than others.

If you’re outdoors spraying water-based paint with an airless sprayer, the danger of inhaling toxic fumes is far less than if you’re working indoors. That’s partly because of fewer VOCs, and partly because air currents carry the fumes away. You probably don’t need a respirator, but you should still wear an N95 mask to avoid inhaling paint particles.

When working indoors, always wear a respirator, even when spraying water-based paints. Water-based paint mixtures may not include toxic VOCs, but they often contain additives to control mold, improve flow or hasten drying. These additives can be harmful.

Even when spraying an additive-free latex paint indoors, it’s best to play it safe and keep your mouth and nose covered.

Respirators for Paint

The right respirator is basically a type of gas mask. It fits tightly around your nose and mouth and contains two removable cartridges that absorb airborne VOCs rather than simply blocking them. The 3M 6001 organic vapor cartridge protects against fumes from paint products and thinners.

Don’t rely on dust masks when working indoors, not even N95 masks. They may block microscopic particles — possibly even viruses. But they have no effect on VOCs.

Is It Safe To Spray Paint Indoors?

Yes, if you keep two things in mind. First, toxic fumes may affect others in the building. Second, ingredients in many paint mixtures are flammable.

You can protect others by confining your activity to one room, keeping the doors closed and positioning an exhaust fan in one window to blow air outside. Don’t forget to close HVAC registers to prevent fumes from circulating through the ducts.

Flammable paint products usually come with a warning on the label. If you’re using a flammable product, it’s even more important to provide active ventilation to prevent gas buildup. Of course, never use a lighter or heat source anywhere near where you’re spraying a flammable paint product.

What Is a Spray Booth?

A closed room with a fan that provides a controlled environment for spray painting. It can be large enough to spray cabinets, furniture or even cars, or closet-sized for small woodworking projects. Some hobbyists even set up portable or benchtop spray booths in their workshops or on their workbenches.

Besides an exhaust fan, a spray booth needs bright lighting and a well-sealed door to isolate it from the rest of the workshop. A spray hood doesn’t have a door, but comes with a powerful fan that sucks fumes out of the room and exhausts them outside. If you’ve oversprayed, then here are a few tips to remove spray paint.

Tips for Safe Spray Painting

Here’s a summary of ways you can work safely while spray-painting:

• Wear a mask: Always wear a respirator indoors and a dust mask outdoors.
• Provide ventilation: If you don’t have a fan, keep windows open to create a cross current, or move your work outdoors.
• Avoid open heat sources: This includes electric heaters with exposed elements and gas heaters. Store aerosol cans away from heat.
• Don’t use damaged spray cans: Damaged cans can leak toxic fumes even when you aren’t actually spraying.
• Never point an airless sprayer at yourself or anyone else: Airless sprayers develop enough pressure to force paint through the skin.

The post How To Spray Paint Safely appeared first on Family Handyman.

Set Up for Spraying

Spraying paint or finish provides a smooth look while saving time. But it also creates a fine mist of solvent and finish that’s dangerous to breathe and drifts and settles on everything in sight.

To avoid problems, work outdoors if possible. If you spray indoors, cover everything with plastic sheeting or drop cloths and wear a respirator fitted with organic vapor filters, especially if you’re spraying lacquer. Also, put an exhaust fan in the window. Read the label on the can for additional safety precautions.

Don’t Dent Your Finger

If you’ve ever used spray cans to finish a large project, you know how sore your fingertip can get from pressing down on the tip. A trigger handle saves your finger and gives you better control of the spray.

Don’t Swing the Spray Can in an Arc

It’s natural to swing the spray can in an arc, but this results in uneven coverage. The finish will build up in the center and be light on the edges, especially with a product like polyurethane spray.

Overlap the Polyurethane Spray Swipes

To get even coverage, overlap the spray about halfway onto the previously sprayed section. If you just overlap the edges, you’ll get a narrow band of thicker finish where the two strips meet. Overlapping at least 50 percent solves this problem — you’ll apply about the same amount of finish everywhere.

Keep the Spray Tip Parallel to the Surface

Focus on keeping the spray tip an equal distance from the surface as you move it along. At the same time, keep the can moving at a steady pace for an even coat. The goal is to apply just enough polyurethane finish to wet the surface without creating runs.

You can also prevent runs by applying several thin coats rather than one or two thick ones. The finish may look blotchy after the first coat, but additional coats will produce a uniform finish.

Start the Polyurethane Spray Paint off the Edge

It’s hard to get even coverage if you start or stop spraying on the surface you’re coating. The spatters that happen when you first push the button can blemish your work, and products like polyurethane spray build up in one spot if you don’t move fast enough.

Here’s an easy and foolproof way to avoid these problems: Start spraying before you reach the edge of the project, move across at an even pace, and stop after you’ve gone past the far edge. This technique guarantees an even, spatter- free coat of finish across the entire surface. Next, get to know if you can spray paint wood.

Seal Dark Stains and Exotic Wood With a Mist Coat

Spraying a heavy coat of finish over dark wood stains or some oily exotic woods can ruin your project’s appearance. The solvent in the finish can dissolve the stain or the color in the wood, causing it to bleed or turn muddy. To avoid this, prime these types of projects with several thin mist coats before applying a thicker coat of finish.

Apply a mist coat by raising the can higher than normal and moving it faster than usual. This will reduce the amount of spray hitting the surface. Mist coats dry quicker than a full coat, so you can typically apply several mist coats with less-than-normal waiting time. Wait for the previous coat to dry to the touch before re-coating.

Brush, Then Spray

At $4-plus per aerosol can, it gets pretty spendy to build up a smooth polyurethane finish on a large project. But you can still take advantage of the flawless finish provided by aerosol cans.

Start by applying two coats of finish with a brush. Then carefully sand with 220-grit sandpaper and remove all dust before using spray cans for the final coat. If you don’t know much about finishes, just make sure your liquid and spray polyurethane finishes are the same type.

Build a Turntable

When you have a small project with many sides to apply polyurethane to, placing it on a turntable will speed up your job and make it easier to achieve good results. Instead of trying to move around the project as you spray, just give the turntable a little spin.

You can build a turntable like this by mounting lazy Susan hardware to a scrap of particleboard or plywood, then mounting a plywood or particleboard disc to the hardware. Check the instructions before leaving the store so you can pick up any screws you’ll need.

The post 9 Tips for Spraying Varnish on Wood appeared first on Family Handyman.

Clean and Scrap Before You Paint Woodwork

Start by cleaning

A coat of paint won’t fill or hide cracks, chips and other surface defects in the wood, and it won’t smooth an existing rough surface. Wood prep is 95 percent of a good painting job, and the first task, says Harris, is to clean any dirt or debris off the wood. Wash with a TSP solution (or TSP substitute) to remove grease and grime, then rinse with clear water.

Scrape loose and cracked paint off the wood

Next, examine the surface for loose and cracked paint that needs scraping. Many scraper types are available, but a 2-in. stiff putty knife works well for small areas.

When you’re done scraping, you’ll be left with a rougher surface and a few more scratches and gouges than when you started. Don’t worry — you’ll fix these areas next.

Don’t Forget to Fill, Sand and Caulk

Fill wood defects

“Patch any imperfections in the wood with a wood filler and allow the wood filler to dry,” says Harris. A two-part polyester resin is best for dents and chips deeper than about 1/8-in. You can use a two-part wood filler, such as Minwax Wood Filler, but an auto body filler also works in a pinch.

For finer scratches and chips, use a spackling compound, but avoid lightweight vinyl-based products. They don’t stick to painted wood very well. I’ve found that good old drywall joint compound works better as a light-duty filler.

Keep in mind stiff putty knives work better for scraping; flexible putty knives work better for filling.

The post Pro Tips for Painting Interior Woodwork appeared first on Family Handyman.

Whenever I paint my home or rental properties, I always start with a paint calculator to avoid the costly mistake of buying too much paint. Here I’ll give you tips to measure your home accurately, step-by-step instructions on how to use a paint calculator, and my recommendations.

Benefit of Using a Paint Calculator

• Saves time;
• Saves money;
• Environmentally friendly;
• DIY-friendly.

How To Measure Your Home’s Exterior

No matter which paint calculator you use, start by measuring your home’s exterior. You’ll need a tape measure, calculator, paper and pencil.

To begin, draw one side of your house as a group of triangles, rectangles and squares. If you have a gable roof, one side of your house will be a square and a triangle to account for the peak. Measure the length and height of each shape, then round up to the nearest foot. Calculate the area of each shape and add them for the side’s total area.

Pro tip: To calculate the square footage of squares and rectangles, multiply length by height. For triangles, multiply length by height, then divide by two.

Next, measure all windows and doors on this side of the house and determine their total square footage, then subtract that from the total area measurements of the side. This will give you the square footage of the area that will require paint.

Repeat this process for all sides of your house to get the total. If you use a paint calculator that only requires linear measurements, you now have these numbers as well.

How To Use an Exterior Paint Calculator

1. Open the paint calculator website. I couldn’t find any reliable paint calculator apps geared toward homeowners. Any useful ones I found were for professionals and required a subscription.
2. Fill out all fields pertaining to your home with the measurements you gathered.
3. Hit ‘calculate’ and wait for the number of gallons to generate.

Exterior Paint Calculator Mistakes To Avoid

• Most paint calculators feature settings for ‘interior’ and ‘exterior,’ so make sure to select ‘exterior’ before entering your information.
• Don’t forget to subtract windows and doors, and any unpainted surfaces like chimneys or stone façades.
• If you plan to paint any outbuildings, like a shed or garage, make sure to include them in your calculator entries as well.
• Most exterior paint calculators will generate their estimate based on one coat of coverage. If you plan to do two coats, double the number before heading to the paint store.

Great Paint Calculators

Look for a paint calculator lets you to customize your estimate and has fields for a variety of information and measurements. Avoid ones that refer to general measurements like “small” or “large” to describe your house, or rely on interior square footage only.

Sherwin-Williams offers a great paint calculator that gathers detailed information, including the texture of your siding, which impacts the amount of paint needed for adequate coverage. It also lets you add a side at a time, great for homes with additions or bump out sections. It takes into account sides with peaks, and you can subtract windows, doors and trim for each side as well.

Valspar offers a thorough exterior paint calculator. It gathers information about each side of your house, and even offers a separate field for peak height. It also has an in-depth trim calculator that accounts for trim length and width.

Dutch Boy’s exterior paint calculator is best suited for a quick estimate. It doesn’t ask for a lot of details, but does account for siding texture and the number of windows and doors. If you’re looking for a ballpark number, this one will do fine.

The post Exterior Paint Calculator Options and Use appeared first on Family Handyman.

I’m a retired furniture finisher/refinisher, and I used to paint over stained wood all the time, but with an important caveat. If the wood already had a finish that was wearing thin or starting to crack or peel, I stripped or sanded it off before painting.

If I was planning to apply a new clear finish, I always sanded off all the stain down to the bare wood in preparation for restaining. If I was going to paint, I didn’t bother getting all the stain, because the paint covers the blotchiness.

Can You Paint Over Stained Wood Without Sanding?

You generally don’t need to sand new wood that has been stained before painting, but it depends on the results you’re after. If you want a super-smooth painted finish, scuff-sand, which is lightly sanding (scuffing), the surface by hand (not with a machine), to smooth out bumps using 150- or 220-grit sandpaper.

This method works well, especially if you’re going to spray the paint. Scuff-sanding knocks down the wood grain that has been raised by application of a stain, especially a water-based stain, and smooths things out.

Sanding is more important if you’re painting old finished wood. If the finish is in good shape, an orbital sander and 150-grit sandpaper dulls and etches it and helps the paint adhere better. If you don’t like sanding, you can also use liquid sandpaper or a similar deglossing agent to dull the finish and improve paint adhesion.

If old varnish or lacquer isn’t in good shape, sanding with 120-grit sandpaper gets rid of the flaking and peeling finish, and because you’re going to paint, it doesn’t matter whether some of the stain comes off or not.

Can You Paint Over Stained Wood Without Priming?

It’s always advisable to apply a coat of primer to stained (or unstained) wood before painting. Primer helps seal knots and pores in the wood to provide more uniform paint coverage, which is something stain doesn’t do by itself.

Sometimes you may be tempted to skip the primer, particularly if you’re working with a close-grained hardwood like maple or oak, but that’s not a good idea. And there’s one particular instance in which you shouldn’t:

Suppose you have just completed a woodworking project. The wood is sanded and freshly stained, but you’re unhappy with the color, so you decide to paint. In this case, you might encounter bleed-through if you paint right away, especially if you cover an oil-based stain with latex paint. Bleed-through happens when some of the pigmentation migrates through the paint and discolors it.

There’s a simple way to handle bleed-through. Let the stain dry until it isn’t tacky, then apply a coat of stain-blocking primer. If you’ve already painted, and the stain is bleeding through, you can apply the primer directly over the dried paint. When the primer dries, apply a fresh coat of paint.

Best Paint To Cover Stained Wood

You can cover stained wood with pretty much any type of paint, including:

• Latex and acrylic latex.
• All-in-one paint and primer.
• Alkyd (oil-based) paint.
• Milk paint.
• Interior and exterior enamel.
• Lacquer and shellac.
• Spray paint from a can.

It bears repeating that the stain has to be dry. Some stains form a thin film on the surface of the wood, and these may contain varnish that needs to cure for a day or two after the stain is dry to the touch.

How to Apply Paint Over Stained Wood

If you want to paint old furniture or cabinetry with an existing stain and finish, it’s important to remove any furniture wax or polish first. Some polishes contain silicone, which will make the paint bead and separate (which is a condition called fish eye!). You can tell if wax is present because you can scrape it off with your fingernail or a coin. To test for silicone, spray water on the surface, and if it forms beads, the test is positive. Check out these tips to lighten stained wood.

Clean the wood

The amount of cleaning depends on the condition of the wood. New wood needs very little cleaning or none at all, while exterior wood may need a thorough cleaning with soap and water to remove mold. If there’s wax on the surface, remove it with fine steel wool and mineral spirits. Silicone is difficult to remove, but you should be able to get most of it by scrubbing with an abrasive cleaner such as Ajax or Barkeeper’s Friend.

Sand or degloss

Scuff sand by hand to smooth new wood or use a sander to remove flaking finish from old wood. If an old finish is in good shape, you can degloss it with liquid sandpaper in lieu of actually sanding.

Make repairs

Fill holes, tighten joints and make other necessary repairs.

Apply primer

Apply a coat of primer. If you think bleed-through may be a problem, use a shellac-based stain-blocking primer. Otherwise, any top-quality, high-solids primer will work. Give the primer about an hour to dry, then scuff lightly by hand with 220-grit sandpaper.

Paint

Apply one coat of paint by brushing or spraying. Let it dry for an hour or two (depending on the paint — check drying time on the container), then scuff with 220-grit sandpaper and apply a second coat. A third coat is optional.

The post Can You Paint Over Stained Wood? appeared first on Family Handyman.