Wondering if the Drill Doctor drill bit sharpener is right for you? Todd Osgood, creator and tool reviewer for Project Farm, says, “The Drill Doctor 750X is simple to use and sharpens drill bits quickly and precisely. It can even convert standard point drill bits into split point bits, allowing for an even more efficient drill bit. It’s by far the best drill bit sharpener that I’ve found in its price range.”

Here is how the Drill Doctor 750X measured up after I tested the tool using a range of bits, angles and materials.

What is the Drill Doctor?

The Drill Doctor is a professional drill bit sharpening system designed to bring dull or broken bits back to life. The machine easily extends the life of twist bits and masonry bits and improves drilling performance. The chuck can accommodate a 3/4-inch bit and includes long jaws for optimum grip of even the smallest bits from 3/32 inches, which is a lifesaver for when my old eyes can’t see that small.

There are two ports for sharpening, one for standard sharpening and one to sharpen or create split point bits. Holding the drill bit securely using an angle guide, the diamond grinding wheel removes work material, making the sharpening process quick and straightforward. It creates an impressive range of angles from 115 to 140 degrees, with markings for standard sizes of 118 and 135 degrees.

It also sharpens carbide, cobalt, high-speed steel, black oxide and titanium-coated bits. You’ll realize your return on investment sooner if you’re using cobalt bits that are more expensive to replace. At 7.5 pounds, this machine is portable and compact, taking up little workspace—something a serious craftsman can appreciate.

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Drill Doctor Features

Broken bits are no problem with the Drill Doctor. You can re-point them, easily bringing them back to life. This unit doesn’t sharpen spade- or brad-point bits, having given that up to be able to sharpen split-point bits. If you use a lot of split-point bits, you know how quickly they can dull, so this may be the sharpener for you. I was worried about over-splitting the bit point, but this unit has a “push to stop” port, preventing this from happening.

The diamond sharpening wheel is easy to access with a clear window on the bottom. According to the manufacturer’s website, plan for around 100 sharpenings per wheel before you’re due for a replacement. I practiced replacing the wheel with the hub wrench that came in the box and found it quick and easy, with a couple of turns of the hub wheel. However, the sharpening wheel is held by a reverse threaded screw, so remember, left is right and right is wrong. There is no slot or magnetic holder for storing the wrench.

Furthermore, the Drill Doctor drill bit sharpener comes with a three-year warranty that protects against defects due to workmanship or design, abrasives excluded.

How I Tested It

Sharpening drill bits freehand using a bench grinder is like unleashing a tsunami in a teacup. It takes an extremely light touch as well as a bit of good luck to work out. I was skeptical that this compact sharpener could compete with a bench grinder in terms of power. I was pleasantly surprised at the simplicity and accuracy of the three-step, error-proof sharpening process.

Freehand Sharpening

To start, I chose the bit angle (the standard is 118 or 135 degrees). I then moved from one port to another, aligning the drill bit, adjusting the bit position, and then sharpening the bit. A couple of cams and a swivel move the drill bit precisely through the foolproof sharpening process. To sharpen, line up the white line on the chuck with the cam guide, then, with a light touch, rotate one-half turn and repeat the plunge action until you don’t hear the grinding noise.

After you’re done and the bit is sharpened, there’s access on the far side to add split points on your bits. This can prevent “walking” on the material before beginning a cut. It can also eliminate the need to center-punch a hole. This process was simple as the bit was already in the chuck after sharpening. I just removed the grit tube, pressed the chuck slowly into the split port one half-turn and then repeated.

There’s a slight learning curve at first, but once you get past that it’s like a sharpening assembly line. I read the manual but highly recommend taking time to watch the instructional videos on the manufacturer’s website. Once you get the feel for it (it took me about 15 minutes), you will get amazing results.

First Try

For my first try, I used some cheap bits that I didn’t mind ruining. I failed to adjust the bit position correctly, which is an important step to proper alignment. The bit clamp arms should be holding the bit at its thinnest part (the flutes). To correct this, I turned the bit slightly until the clamp arms fell into the flutes.

The Drill Doctor took about two minutes to sharpen a 118-degree 13/64 split point drill bit from start to finish using the default material removal setting. I’m sure adjusting the material removal could have done it faster—certainly a far better result than trudging to the hardware store for a new drill bit set and better than the hit-or-miss method of my free-hand sharpening attempts.

After I got a couple of bits under my belt, I went from dull to sharp in about two minutes with accurate and consistent results. Using a marker on the top of the drill bit, I could see where the Drill Doctor had gone to work. It removed all the markings, and the cutting edge looked sharp and ready for action.

FAQ

Can you sharpen masonry bits on a Drill Doctor?

Masonry bits typically have a carbide or similar hardened tip designed for drilling into materials like concrete, brick or stone. The hardness of these materials means that they can be sharpened on the Drill Doctor but instead of making rotations in the sharpening port, you sharpen by using a plunging action. Insert the chuck to sharpen one side, remove it, and then repeat on the other side.

Can Drill Doctor sharpen carbide?

The 180-grit diamond grinding wheel can sharpen bits made out of carbide. It can also sharpen carbon steel, high-speed steel, cobalt, TiN-coated and masonry drill bits.

What Other Reviewers Had to Say

The Drill Doctor 750x has earned nearly 2,700 five-star ratings on Amazon alone. Here’s what real-life users are saying about it:

Five-star reviewer, Cindy S., says the Drill Doctor is user-friendly and works great. “We sharpened at least 20 drill bits the first night, took one of the worst and cheapest drill bits, and it’s like brand new now.”

“I certainly recommend the DD750X to anyone who wants cleaner sharpening, a simpler sharpening process or who wants to remove any human error from splitting a point using more traditional methods,” says Rakesh Aladeen, who gave the Drill Doctor five stars for the quick learning curve and quality sharpening.

Verified purchaser, KC says, “I liked the versatility of the 750X and couldn’t be happier. I sharpened at least 100 bits the first day I got it! It was pretty pricey but to me, it’s worth every penny.”

Drill Doctor vs Tormek

The more affordable Drill Doctor specifically sharpens drill bits. It doesn’t offer the versatility of sharpening other types of tools. The Tormek sharpening system sharpens a variety of tools, including knives, chisels and scissors. It’s known for using a water-cooled sharping method, which prevents overheating of the tools. The Tormek is more expensive with a steeper learning curve due to the variety of jigs and accessories that go with the sharpening system.

Guy Lautard, author of The Machinist’s Bedside Reader, has a Tormek wet wheel grinding machine but not the Tormek Drill Sharpening attachment, which is quite expensive. Guy explains, “I would prefer the Drill Doctor over the Tormek drill sharpening attachment, due to its significantly lower price and the fact that it is a self-contained device that would be easily taken outside for use, which is what I’d prefer to do, rather than using it inside my shop.”

If your primary need is to sharpen drill bits, the Drill Doctor may be a more cost-effective and straightforward solution. However, if you have a variety of tools to sharpen and are willing to invest in a more versatile system, the Tormek would be a good choice.

Final Verdict

The Drill Doctor hit it out of the park! It has saved me money in drill bits, the hassle of going to the store for replacements, and time saved on the job from always having a sharp drill bit. The split-point bit feature makes a big difference in cutting speed, too. I’ve sharpened tools with a bench grinder and learned about sharpness, angles and relief. The results of the Drill Doctor have been more accurate and consistent.

Sharpening by hand doesn’t always equal perfection, given the complex angles involved. If I had Superman’s focus and hands, I’d use a bench grinder, but the Drill Doctor is the next best thing. The Drill Doctor takes away the guessing game, as their system centers the chisel point of the drill and sets up the cutting edge just right. All you have to do is set the bit and rotate to get consistent results every time. Plus, its compact design sold me and has a permanent spot in my shop, so I’m always ready to sharpen a dull bit. Clean, maintain and store it easily.

Where to Buy the Drill Doctor

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Find the Drill Doctor drill bit sharpener on Amazon, Acme Tools, Lowe’s or Northern Tool for between $150 and $175. I certainly recommend the 750X to anyone who wants cleaner sharpening, a simpler process or the removal of any human error from using more traditional methods.

The post We Tried It: Drill Doctor Drill Bit Sharpener Review appeared first on Family Handyman.

Two-Part Filler

Stain Markers

Texture Spray Cans

Epoxy Glue

Blend Fillers to Patch Laminate

Self-Sticking Hole Patch

Rethreader in a Can

Epoxy Putty for Wood Repairs

The Glue-Anything Glue

Deck Remodel in a Can

Epoxy Fillers Are Worth the Hassle

Spray-On Crack Fix

Silicone Repair Tape

Quick-Setting Mud for Speedy Repairs

Long-Life Work Boots

Time-Saving Wall Patch

The post Amazing Repair Products appeared first on Family Handyman.

70 Years of Fireplace Projects

Family Handyman’s first cover story was “How to Repair a Brick Fireplace,” and we’ve been serving up fireplace projects ever since. We showed how to cover brick with tile way back in 1953. Since then, better tools and materials have made it much easier for DIYers to tackle a project like this. Tile manufacturing has improved too, with more choices available, like the large tiles we used for our modern fireplace makeover.

A Few Things We Learned

• Large tile carries an extra cost
  • I chose Sofia Charcoal porcelain tile for its texture and consistent color, which made the seams almost disappear. The fireplace was about 60 sq. ft., but with large tile there’s a lot of waste. So I had to buy 90 sq. ft. at $9.20 per sq. ft., or just over $60 a tile.
• Tile costs vary a lot
  • The total materials bill for my project was about $1,200. Tile was by far the biggest cost ($900), but you can find good-looking tile for less than half that price. 
• Rent a tile saw
  • For the 31-in. x 31-in. tiles I chose, I had to rent a large-capacity saw ($75 per day).
• Dive into something new
  • In removing the hearth, I wasn’t exactly sure what I was getting into. I’m usually not a fan of exploratory demolition, but one of the best ways to learn how to build something is to first take it apart.
• Choose reinforced thin-set
  • I used a modified thin-set ($60 per bag) that’s reinforced with fiber. It allowed the tile to stay put on the wall without sagging and provided an extended working time, so I didn’t have to rush.
• Wide-notch trowel
  • Larger tile tends to be slightly cupped. To make sure the tile adhered well, I had to fill it with thin-set to compensate. I used a 3/4-in. round-notch trowel to be sure there was enough thin-set to adhere the tile.
• Mind the edges
  • I opted to install the tiles tight together instead of leaving gaps for grout. To get these tiles to match up perfectly, I placed the factory edges of the tiles together and kept the cut edges on the outside.
• Beware of painted brick
  • If you tile over a painted fireplace, you’ll be rolling the dice. If the paint peels, so will the tile. The safe approach is to remove most of the paint before tiling.

Protect Your Floor

This project calls for the ultimate floor protection.

• Start with a layer of rosin paper taped at the seams and edges.
• Then cut sheets of hardboard to fit around the fireplace and join them with duct tape.
  • Pro tip: The rosin paper keeps granules that might get under the hardboard from scratching the wood floor, and the hardboard protects against dents.

Chip Out the Corbels

• After removing the mantel (ours wasn’t even fastened), chip out the corbels with a maul and a brick set chisel.
  • Note: These bricks were embedded, but I lightly chipped all the way around them and eventually they sheared right off.

Bust Up the Hearth

• With a brick set chisel and a maul, start chipping away at the corner of the hearth.
• After peeling away the first layer, I thought the hearth was solid brick. But as I kept chipping, I found packed sand, broken bricks and even an old soda can holding up the rest of the bricks.

Change of Plans!

Most DIY projects include some surprises and require on-the-spot problem solving. In this case, I had intended to leave the brick ledge underneath the firebox. But as I finished cleaning up the area, I noticed nothing was holding these bricks up. I decided to knock them down and rebuild the ledge.

Fill the Empty Hearth Space

• To fill the void left by removing the hearth, I built up the ledge in front of the fireplace.
• I set the 2×4 ledge 1/2-in. inside the opening, screwed it to the floor and anchored it into the brick at the sides.
• Then I covered this space with 1/2-in. cement backer board.

Cut the Tile

There are a few things to know about using a tile saw.

• Keep the blade cool with water and cut slow, especially through the last inch of tile.
  • Pro tip: For notches, start with the tile saw and use an angle grinder or tile nippers to finish the cut. 

Tile the Floor First

• Cut metal tile edging to fit around the perimeter of the floor tile. 
• Apply thin-set to the floor with a 3/4-in. round-notch trowel and press the metal edging into the thin-set.
• Starting with a full-width tile, spread a layer of thin-set on the back of it (called “back buttering”).
• Make sure the tile is centered and set it onto the floor. After the center tile is in place, cut and set the end tiles.

Here’s our list of the best fireplace tile ideas to help revamp your fireplace.

Cut the Trim

• Instead of cutting the tile to fit the profile of the trim, cut the trim back and slip the tile against the wall. It’s much easier!
• To cut the trim, use a piece of tile and a piece of hardboard as spacers and a guide for your multitool.

Then Start on the Sides

• Tile the sides first so the tile edges will be covered by the tiles on the face of the fireplace.
  • Pro tip: Throughout this project, plan your cuts so that factory edges will meet other tiles and cut edges won’t.
    • For the sides, that means the factory edges will be the top and bottom and the cut edges will go against the wall and flush to the face of the brick.

Embed the Edging

• Install edging over the sides of the fireplace and surrounding the firebox.
• Cover the edge of the tiles with metal edging.
• Spread thin-set near the corner and press the edging into the thin-set.
• Use a margin trowel to embed the edging and smooth the thin-set.

Begin in the Middle

• I started with the middle tiles to make sure they were perfectly centered, level and plumb.
• After setting the lower tiles, I placed 2x2s within the fireplace box to prevent the next rows of tile from sliding downward.
• I finished tiling to the top and kept the supports in while the thin-set cured.

Make Precise Marks

Cutting the tile around the fireplace is tricky. If the tiles don’t line up, you’ll notice, so precise cuts are important.

• Cut a tile to the proper width and dry-fit it into place.
• Mark precisely where it will meet the edges of the adjacent tiles and cut the notch away.

Place the Rest of the Tiles

• Once the sides and center column of tiles are attached, the last few pieces go in pretty quickly.
• Wipe away any thin-set residue with a sponge and a 50/50 mix of vinegar and water.
• You’ll be able to remove the supports and use the fireplace after 48 hours.

Everything You Need to Know About Indoor Fireplaces

From choosing the right style to ensuring safety and proper maintenance, knowing the essentials will help you get the most out of your indoor fireplace.

• Indoor Fireplace Safety for Beginners
• How to Properly Babyproof a Fireplace
• Is My Wood-Burning Fireplace Illegal?
• How to Clean a Brick Fireplace
• Best Indoor and Outdoor Ethanol Fireplaces
• What You Need to Know About Bathroom Fireplaces
• Tips for Choosing Fireplace Andirons and Grates
• Everything You Need to Know About a Fireplace Damper

The post A Step-by-Step Guide to Fireplace Refacing appeared first on Family Handyman.

Buy PDF & Cut List

Getting Started on Building an In-Ground Fire Pit:

Advice From a Masonry Pro:

Doug Montzka, of Montkza Concrete & Masonry in St. Paul, Minn., has been in the concrete and masonry business for 23 years. He’s seen the popularity of fire pits but it’s possible to create a DIY fire pit. “I started getting requests for brick fire pits a few years ago. It isn’t rocket science, but there are a few tricks to doing the job right. A well-built masonry fire pit is rock solid, safe to use, and will easily last for as long as you own your house.”

Set Aside a Few Days

This won’t be the kind of project you can complete in an afternoon. There are a few time-consuming steps that will spread this project out over a few days. First, you’ll have to pour the footing and give it the time to set up. Then you’ll have to mortar the bricks into place.

Before Digging, Call Utility Companies

Before digging out the space for your in-ground fire pit, call your utility companies (dial 811; for more info, go to call811.com) to check the location of buried utility lines.

Also, check the fire pit code in your area. Most require a fire pit to be 25 ft. away from any structures and overhanging trees. Think about how the prevailing winds blow through your backyard.

Mark Out the Fire Pit

The first step to making your own fire pit is to dig out a dedicated space in your yard for the fire pit base. The following are the fire pit dimensions we used for this project.

• A 3-ft.-diameter in-ground fire pit creates enough room for a good fire, yet keeps everyone close enough to chat (and complies with most codes).
  • Pro tip: To make measuring the pit and pouring the concrete footing easy, we used two cardboard concrete form tubes (purchased from a concrete supply company).
• You could also make your own forms by screwing together 1/8-in. hardboard. For a non-traditional fire, opt for a smokeless fire pit.
• Rip a 4 x 8-ft. sheet into four 8-in.-wide strips.
• Carefully bend and screw two strips together to create a 36-in.-diameter circle, and use the other two to make a 48-in.-diameter circle.
• Set the larger form in position and spray paint around it. Dig a hole about 8 in. deep and 3 in. larger in diameter than the form.

Level the Pit

• Shovel out the soil to a depth of 8 in. for your fire pit base. Don’t disturb the underlying soil.
• Check the bottom of the hole with a level.
• Remove high spots in your in-ground fire pit by scraping off soil rather than digging.
  • Pro tip: That way, you won’t loosen the underlying soil.
• Compact the soil with a hand tamper or a 4×4 post.

Pour a Sturdy Footing for Your Fire Pit Base: Stake the Forms

• The concrete footing will create a stable base for the pit walls and keep the sides of your pit from cracking as the ground moves over time.
• Stake the forms and mix up ten 80-lb. bags of concrete mix according to the manufacturer’s directions.
• If you’re using hardboard forms, stake them so they’re nice and round.
• If the forms aren’t quite level, raise one end and drive a screw through the stake.
• If the forms aren’t completely round, reposition the stakes.

Add the Rebar

• Bend rebar into half circles for this circle fire pit and tie them together with wire to make a ring.
• Fill the forms halfway.
• Press the ring into the concrete for strength, making sure it doesn’t touch the sides of the forms.

Finish the Footing

• Shovel in the remaining concrete until the forms are filled to the top and tap the tubes gently with a sledgehammer until the concrete mix is level.
• Recheck level, hammering the forms down if necessary, and smooth the top of the footer.
• Let the concrete completely set up overnight and then remove the forms.

Dry-Set the Firebrick Liner

• Because regular clay brick can crack at high temperatures, we’re using firebrick (also called “refractory” brick) to line the inside of the easy fire pit walls.
  • Pro tip: Firebrick is a dense brick that’s kilned to withstand high temperatures. It’s larger, thicker and wider than regular brick, and you can find it at most brickyards. Firebrick is more expensive, but it will stand up to nightly fires for years to come.
• You’ll need 25 firebricks for a 3-ft. diameter pit.
• Because firebrick is so dense, it’s tougher to split than regular brick. “Soldiering” the brick (standing it on end) minimizes the amount of splitting and lets you easily accommodate the curve of the pit.
• You’ll only need to split four firebricks (use the technique shown in step 11), which you’ll place across from one another around the pit to create draw holes for oxygen for your fire.
• After you split your firebricks, dry-set them in place on top of the footing.
• Adjust the spacing between bricks so you won’t have to cut the last brick to fit (cutting firebrick isn’t easy).
• Mark the position of every brick on the footing.

Mortar the Firebrick

• Firebrick is mortared with refractory cement, which, unlike regular masonry mortar, can withstand high heat.
• Refractory cement comes premixed in a bucket and has the consistency of peanut butter.
  • Pro tip: A margin trowel makes it easier to scoop cement out of the bucket and butter the bricks. And a tuck pointer is useful for cleaning up the joints.
• Work with four bricks at a time.
  • Pro tip: The secret is to trowel the cement on thin, like you’re spreading peanut butter on toast, and use the tightest joints you can.
• Butter a thin layer of cement on the footer and position your first brick.
• Butter the second brick and butt it against the first.
• Continue around the circle checking level side-to-side and back-to-front as you go.

Create Air Holes

• Leave gaps in the firebrick in four opposite points around the ring and then fill them with half bricks. These gaps are “draw holes” that feed air to the fire.
• Prop up the half bricks until the mortar sets.
• Check for level across the DIY fire pit and the vertical level of the bricks as you go.

Complete the Outside Walls with Face Brick

• We used SW (“severe weathering”) face brick (also called “common” or “building” brick) to line the outside circle fire pit walls. If your climate doesn’t include freeze/thaw cycles, you can use MW (“moderate weathering”) building brick. Home centers and brickyards carry a large variety of brick.
• You’ll need 80 face bricks for a 3-ft.-diameter pit. Face brick with holes (“cored”) is easy to split with a brick hammer. It’s easier to form the curve of the pit walls with half bricks. You’ll lay three courses of face brick and mortar them together with Type N mortar mix (sold in 80-lb. bag at home centers, and you’ll need about five bags).
• Because face brick is smaller than firebrick, you’ll need to make up the size difference as you lay your three courses of face brick. The difference between the height of your firebrick and the total height of three stacked face bricks will determine the width of your mortar beds between courses.
• Dry-set the face brick, marking where each course of face brick has to hit the firebrick to make the third course of face brick level with the firebrick.

Split 80 Bricks in Half

• Cup the brick in your hand, keeping your fingers below the top edge of the brick.
  • Pro tip: Our mason doesn’t use gloves, but we suggest you do!
• Give the brick a solid tap (a very solid tap for firebrick) on the outside edge near the center hole.
• Avoid hitting your hand. Repeat 79 times.

Set the Face Brick

• To keep your mortar joints between courses a reasonable width, lay a 2 to 3-in. thick bed of mortar right on top of the footing.
• Let it set up slightly (give it at least 15 minutes) and smooth out the top.

Work in Sections

• Working on one-third of this easy fire pit at a time, lay 3/8 in. of fresh mortar on each course of face brick into place, leaving a 1/4-in. gap between the firebrick and the face brick.
• Check the level of each course and tap down the bricks as necessary.
• Stagger the joints between courses for strength.

Strike the Joints

• After you finish each section of face brick, use a jointer to smooth (“strike” or “tool”) the joints before the mortar dries too much.
• The mortar is ready to strike if you press your finger into it and the indentation remains.
• Striking gives the wall a uniform, polished look.
• Remember to leave the draft holes open as you mortar each section of face brick and smooth out the finished joints.

Finish Off the Top Lip

• Mortar the brick caps.
• Finish the pit with a matching “row-lock” cap using regular face brick set on edge.
• You’ll need about 40 face bricks for this cap, which will:
  • Help protect the wall joints from rain
  • Keep sparks contained
  • Give you a nice ledge to warm your feet on.
• Work with 10 to 12 bricks at a time.
• Lay a 3/8-in. bed of mortar and lay the bricks on edge, then butter each brick on the outside edge as you go and press it into place.
  • Pro tip: We used brick, but you could use natural stone for a different look.

Fill Gaps

• Add a small amount of mortar to the joints to fill any gaps.
• Check the level frequently and tap gently with a brick hammer to adjust the spacing.
• Leave a 1-in. overhang on the outside to allow for rain to drip off.
• Once all the bricks have been mortared in place, strike the joints for a smooth, finished look with a concave jointer.

Finished DIY Fire Pit

• Give the cement and mortar a week to cure completely before lighting a fire in your pit.
• Pour a few inches of gravel on the pit’s floor for drainage and you’re ready for your first wienie roast.

The post How to Build a Brick Fire Pit appeared first on Family Handyman.

Brick Walkway Overview

You don’t need heavy equipment and a week of work to lay an attractive and durable walkway. We designed this path, one of our favorite garden path ideas, with bricks for simplicity and ease of construction. It’s made from old street pavers and granite cobbles set on a sand bed. But you can substitute just about any pavers or types of stones that are readily available and fit your landscape. The stone-setting techniques will even accommodate stones of varying thicknesses. You can build this path in about two weekends using a shovel, a wheelbarrow and a few inexpensive hand tools.

We’ll walk you through all the path-building details, from breaking ground to breaking the cobbles to fit tight spots. Usually, the main stumbling block is making the path smooth and flat. To solve that problem, we’ll show you a simple leveling technique using ordinary plastic landscape edging. With this technique, you can lay a top-notch path, even if you’re a novice.

Garden Path and Bench

We integrated a seating area into our pathway. Also, keep in mind that we designed this path for foot traffic and other light use. Don’t try to drive on it. Because the path is set only on sand, it won’t stay as flat and smooth as a traditional paver walk set on a compacted gravel bed. It’s ideal for narrower secondary walks in a garden or backyard, where slight imperfections and undulations add to its character. And if an edge stone gets loose from a wheelbarrow bouncing over it, you can reset it in minutes. Expect to pull an occasional weed growing up in the joints. Or if you prefer an English cottage look, encourage moss or other ground covers to grow in the joints.

How to Install Brick Pavers

Path Details and Materials

The path is set on several inches of sand base and bordered by hidden landscape edging with the tube cut off. To achieve the aged, timeless look, you’ll have to track down old street pavers. If you’re lucky, you may be able to salvage material from a local project. Otherwise look for older materials at a landscape supplier or an architectural salvage store. Expect to pay a dollar or more apiece for old pavers. The size varies but it usually takes 4.5 to cover a square foot. The granite cobblestone isn’t antique; the stones were run through a rock tumbler to make them look worn. We paid a premium for these. Figure on three cobbles per linear foot of the path. Use ordinary washed concrete sand for the setting bed. Figure on 1 cu. yd. per 80 sq. ft. of the path. Before you move ahead, get to know about concrete alternatives.

Have the pavers, cobbles and sand delivered. Use a “contractor’s grade” landscape edging for the border. Buy it from a landscape supplier in 20-ft. strips that are stored flat. (If you gently bend each in half, you can wrestle them into a sedan with the windows open.) They usually come with stakes, but buy a few extra packs to hold the edging down better. Don’t buy the edging that’s coiled up in a box; it’s difficult to uncoil and set smoothly.

You’ll need a couple of special tools to do first-class work: a hand tamper and a deadblow hammer or rubber mallet. You can get these at a home center. You’ll also need a 3-in. mason’s chisel and a 3-lb. hammer to split the pavers. Then grab your yard shovels and wheelbarrow and go to work. Learn some other amazing things you can do with your hammer here. The following steps will walk you through how to install brick pavers yourself.

Start by Laying Out the Path

The first step in how to install brick pavers is to plan the path layout. You can use a garden hose to help you lay out your path. But the photo above shows another technique. Define the sitting area first, dot the key starting end and center points, then connect the dots with a smooth line. Stakes work well to mark a curve, then simply connect the stakes with paint. Don’t worry about making mistakes with the paint; your next mowing will erase them. Gradual curves work best; curves with a radius tighter than 5 ft. result in unsightly wide gaps between the pavers.

Figure B: Measure the Path Width

Plan your path width to the full brick, then add a few inches to the width of your excavation for wiggle room for the slightly wider spacing needed on a curve. Make your path anywhere from 2 to 3 ft. wide. Anything wider will look out of scale in a garden setting.

Roll Up Your Sleeves and Dig Out the Path!

When you’re digging through sod, it’s always easiest to drive the shovel through the grass and push it into the excavation. When you’re on a slope, use gravity in your favor. Start at the bottom and back your way up the hill. Use the blade of a round-nose shovel as a rough depth gauge. Stepping it almost all the way in is about a 7-in. depth. Roughly dig out the entire path, then shave one of the sides back to the paint line with an edging spade held vertically. Finally, shave the bottom flat with either shovel. You’ll be amazed at how much dirt will come out of that narrow little path. If possible, find a place for it onsite by building a berm or adding soil around the house to improve drainage. Otherwise, roughly calculate the volume of soil you have to remove and rent a roll-off container for soil disposal.

Install Edging

The top of the plastic landscape edging will be the finished height of your path. Set it a little higher than the surrounding lawn or garden so water will drain off the path. Set the top of the tube flush where the path meets a patio or driveway, along the vertical cut edge. Splice sections by cutting away 7 in. of the top tube, inserting a splice tube, then overlapping the sections. The heavy-grade plastic edging will form a smooth, flat surface, without telegraphing the minor dips or bumps in your lawn. Most edging has a little lip on the bottom to keep it from creeping up. Set this to the inside of the path.

Spike the Edging to the Sod

Hold the top of the tube about an inch above the sod and drive spikes every 5 ft. through the edging into the side of the excavation.

Place the Other Side of the Path

With one side spiked in place, notch a 32-in. 1×6 screed board to the desired path width and use it as a guide to trim and edge the second side of the excavation. Set this edging side about 1/2 in. higher or lower to encourage drainage from the path. At the 4-ft. wide seating area, allow a 1-in. height difference across the entire width.

Add Sand

Now add sand to a level about 3 in. below the top of the tube and compact it firmly. Although a motorized plate compactor works best, a hand tamper works fine for a small, informal path like this. The sand should be slightly damp when you tamp it to help it pack. Sprinkle it with water if it’s dry.

Screed

To flatten it, place the ears of the screed board on the edging and pull a ridge of sand down the path, filling in any depressions as you go. Smooth the sand 4 in. below the top of the tube. Work from the top of the slope downhill.

Trim the Tube

Whether you remove the edging tube is purely a matter of aesthetics. If you don’t mind the appearance of the tube, leave it on. To trim the edging, cut the tube off the top of the plastic edging with a sharp utility knife. Keep the cut at or slightly below the soil level to keep it out of sight.

Seating Area

Figure out the seating area dimensions by roughly laying out the pattern on your driveway. Then set the sand base in the same manner as the path, by placing edging on two sides to serve as screed guides. (Use a longer screed board.) Because you’ll be setting a bench on it, make the surface relatively level. Only allow a 1-in. height difference from one side to the other. Because our project was on a slope, we had to hold the edging 2 in. above the sod on one side. Then after laying the pavers, we added soil to build that edge up. Lay the pavers in staggered rows (a running bond pattern) that wraps around the sides. Start at the outside and work your way around to the middle. It’ll take a bit of fiddling to get the pavers to fit. You’ll have to space some pavers up to 1/4 in. apart and cut a few as well. The informal design allows for looser spacing. Sand will fill the gaps.

Set the Pavers with Staggered Joints

Laying the pavers will move quickly, especially if you have a helper feeding them to you. Start where you want the best fit, usually where the path meets a patio, walk or driveway. Set one side of the cobbles first and follow along with the pavers, staggering each row by half a paver. Set each one in the sand with a few whacks of a deadblow hammer. As you work your way through a curve, the stagger will change because of the wider radius at the outside of the curve. If the joints from row to row come within 1 in., simply insert a half paver to increase the separation. The pavers height will set in pretty uniformly.

Adjust the Sand to Fit the Cobbles

Remove or add sand as needed to accommodate the uneven thickness of the granite cobbles and to keep the top of the path flat.

Mark Cuts in Place

Measure the cuts by holding the paver in place and marking one edge. Use a square to extend the mark completely around the paver.

Cut the Paver

The best way to cut a paver is to split it, but it’s a little tricky because pavers are extremely hard. The resulting ragged edge is in keeping with the worn and tumbled look. Work on a soft surface like the lawn or a pile of sand. Strike the paver sharply on all sides with a 3″ mason’s chisel and a 3-lb. hammer, turning it from the top to the bottom, then side to side. Hold the chisel perpendicular to the face of the paver. Don’t try to split off anything smaller than about 1-1/2 in. It just won’t break cleanly. Finally, save the cutoff pieces. Chances are you can work them in somewhere.

Adjust Spacing

Hide large gaps up to 1-1/2 in. by shifting adjacent pavers up to 1/4 in. apart. Avoid using paver pieces less than about 1-1/2 in. long.

Fill the Sides

Fill in along the side of the path with topsoil and tamp firmly with your foot.

Work Sand Into the Gaps

The last step is to fill the joints with sand. Sweep the sand into the joints, leaving a thin layer on top. Then let it dry and sweep it in again, working the broom back and forth until the joints are full. Save some sand to sweep into the joints after the first rain. Your path will need little or no maintenance; in fact, it will just continue to look better as it ages.

Garden Bed Edging

Add a garden edging with extra cobbles to create flower beds and blend the path and garden into the yard. Leave the cobble tops slightly above the ground level to create a nice edge for easy lawn mowing.

Cut Trench

Cut a clean 5 x 5-in. trench with an edging spade. Then add a few inches of sand.

Place Cobblestone

Push each cobblestone into the sand, leaving the top about 1/2 in. above the bed. Set it with a whack of a deadblow hammer. That’s it! Now you’ve completed one of our favorite garden ideas with bricks in your own landscape.

Check out another affordable garden path idea, too.

The post How to Build a Brick Walkway in the Garden appeared first on Family Handyman.

Driveway Sealing Preparation

There are several kinds of driveways for homes, but one of the most popular choices is an asphalt driveway. It can last for almost 30 years, even adding a little curb appeal to your home. But you can’t achieve that long life span unless the driveway was installed properly and you perform regular maintenance, like filling cracks annually and driveway sealing when needed.

Driveway sealing preparation can take a full day (including drying time), and it’s tedious. The driveway sealer application phase is much faster, taking only a few hours per coat for a typical driveway. Most driveway sealer manufacturers recommend two coats with a minimum drying time of eight hours between coats, so this driveway sealing project will fill an entire weekend. Sealing it is also an important step for winterizing your driveway.

The best asphalt driveway sealer materials cost about $100, but you’ll save about $200 in labor over a professional job. A power washer speeds the cleaning process, but you can do the job without it. In addition to a squeegee or application brush, you’ll need a broom, drill, mixing paddle, duct tape, dashing brush and poly sheeting to protect painted surfaces.

Avoid these common driveway sealing mistakes

• Depending on the sealer to fill cracks. It won’t. Fill them properly before applying sealer.
• Failure to clean and prep the driveway before applying the sealer. If you don’t want to spend time cleaning the driveway, you may as well skip the sealer too, because it won’t stick to a dirty driveway.
• Failure to stir properly. Don’t depend on a stir stick. It simply won’t blend the water and solids enough to get a consistent mixture.
• Use of the wrong applicator. Using a brush when the manufacturer specifies a squeegee (or vice versa) will cause premature sealer failure.
• Applying asphalt sealer too often. Too much sealer will flake off. Wait until you begin to see asphalt aggregate before you apply a new coat of sealer.

Buying the Right Materials

Driveway sealer is available in various grades and price ranges. Some bargain products contain almost 50 percent water and have lower coverage rates and a correspondingly shorter guarantee, so they’re not the most cost-effective solution over the long term. Use one of them if you’re trying to spiff up the driveway before selling your home. Premium products, on the other hand, are made with higher quality resins and UV stabilizers and contain filler and elastomeric material, so they last longer and carry a longer guarantee.

Manufacturers also make different formulas for different driveway sealing conditions: one formula for newer driveways in good condition and another formula for older driveways that haven’t been well maintained. The two formulas also vary in their coverage, so read the labels carefully and choose the correct sealer and quantity for your particular driveway. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for the type of applicator to use (brush or squeegee). Using the wrong one can cause premature failure. You’ll also need liquid driveway cleaner/degreaser to remove oil and tree sap. If your driveway has visible oil stains, pick up a bottle of oil spot primer.

Check the Weather Before you Start

You’ll need at least two days of dry weather to seal your asphalt driveway. Temperatures must be above 50 degrees F during application and throughout the night. And, it’s best to avoid scorching-hot sunny days (the sealer may dry too fast). If you ignore the weather forecast, you may see $100 worth of sealer wash away in a heavy rain.

Start with Cleaning and Priming

Use the soap nozzle on your power washer or a garden hose applicator to apply the driveway cleaner. Then scrub the entire driveway with a stiff-bristle push broom.

Even if you think your driveway is clean, trust us, it isn’t. Exhaust gas contains combustion byproducts that deposit a light, sometimes oily film on your driveway. That film, along with dirt and tree sap, must come off if you want the sealer to stick. So clean the driveway first (Photo 1).

Rinse with a Strong Stream

Flush the soap and dirt residue with a 40-degree power washer nozzle or a strong stream of water from your garden hose. Next, rinse the driveway with clear water (Photo 2). Let the driveway dry completely before applying the sealer. Then perform a final sweep with a push broom.

Pretreat the Oil Stains

Pour the oil spot primer on the damaged areas and brush it into the pores with a disposable chip brush. Apply a second coat to heavier stains. Let the primer dry fully before applying the driveway sealer. Treat any oil stains with an oil spot primer (Photo 3).

Mask, Stir and Trim

Start the mixing paddle near the top of the pail and slowly lower it into the contents settled at the bottom. Cycle the mixing paddle up and down while it spins to combine the water and solids into a smooth consistency. Choose an area on the driveway for mixing and cover it with poly sheeting to protect against spills (dried spills will show through the sealer). Remove the pail lids and cut a small hole in the center of one lid. Use that lid to prevent splashing during mixing. Stir until the mixture is smooth (Photo 4).

Cut in the Edges

Dip the dashing brush into the sealer and apply a liberal coating to all four edges of the driveway. Don’t spread it too thin; you want it to fill in all the pores.  Next, cut in all four edges of the driveway with a large dashing brush (Photo 5).

Stage the Pails

Guesstimate the coverage of each pail and stage each additional pail along the driveway. That saves time and reduces the need to walk through wet sealer to get the next pail. Driveway sealer will splash onto your garage door and sidewalks as you pour it. And it’ll get all over your shoes and clothes. It’s very difficult (often impossible) to remove later, so wear old work clothes and shoes. Mask the garage door with poly sheeting and apply strips of duct tape to concrete walks where it butts up to the asphalt. Then stage the pails equally down the driveway (Photo 6).

Pour onto the Driveway

Start at the top left or right edge of the driveway and pour the sealer in an upside-down U-shape pattern. Pour the sealer onto the driveway (Photo 7).

Spread the Sealer

Start at one leg of the upside down ‘U’ and apply even pressure to spread the puddle across the driveway and down along the opposite leg. Then pick up the excess sealer on the down leg and start the next row. Then spread the puddle with a squeegee or broom, depending on the manufacturer’s directions (Photo 8). Pour enough sealer to maintain a puddle in front of the applicator tool.

When you reach the bottom of the driveway, cap the remaining pails and clean the squeegee or brush. Set the empty pails along the curb to prevent cars from ruining the job. Then let the sealer dry overnight.

Repeat the sealer application the next day. Let the sealer dry for 48 hours before driving on it (better safe than sorry). Don’t ask how we learned that lesson.

Driveway sealers: Real protection or just black paint?

Some asphalt driveway companies tell their customers that driveway sealer is a waste of money, that it’s cosmetic and doesn’t do anything to extend the life of the asphalt.

It’s true that driveway sealer can’t replace the liquid asphalt (oil/tar) that oxidizes and bakes out of the mixture from heat and sun exposure. But a high quality sealer can dramatically reduce future heat and UV damage. Plus, it seals the pores to prevent aggregate breakup damage caused by water penetration, freeze/thaw cycles and chemicals. So it really does extend the life of your driveway.

The post How to Seal an Asphalt Driveway appeared first on Family Handyman.

Paver Stone Walkway Overview

Do you want to spruce up an ordinary, all-purpose sidewalk? If so, this project is a great eye-catching solution. It’s basically a brick paver walkway set on a solid bed of gravel and sand. It’ll stay flat and smooth even under heavy use, and unlike concrete, it won’t crack. The brick meanders through a blend of natural stone, also solidly bedded, which adds a unique decorative dimension. You can work in just about any type of stone that complements your home and yard.

Our project dresses up a space along the side of the house from the driveway to a service door. It also provides a firm, smooth surface for rolling a garden cart or wheelbarrow and keeps your feet out of the mud on a rainy day. Its width, a full 7 ft., allows enough room for a bench to kick off your boots, with plenty of space left over for potted plants.

Path building is a great project for homeowners of all skill levels. However, it involves moving tons of material. You should be in good physical shape to tackle this job or enlist a few helpers with strong backs. Once you have all the materials on hand, plan a three-day weekend to finish the whole enchilada.

You need a few special tools for this project: a plate compactor and hand tamper (Photo 4). Rent them both from a local rental yard. Besides a sturdy wheelbarrow and shovels, you’ll need a dolly for moving heavy stones, a brick hammer and chisel, a 4-1/2 in. angle grinder equipped with a diamond blade, and a steel trowel. All these tools are available at home centers and masonry supply stores. Order the brick, stone, gravel and sand from a landscape and/or a brick supplier.

Paver stone walkway design and materials

Although you could build this project on a gentle slope, it’s far easier to set the grade on a relatively flat site. However, one corner of our path site dropped off about 8 in. To make the walk flat, we built it up with soil excavated from the walk and blended it into the lawn. If you have to build the walk up higher than that, you’ll probably have to do more extensive regrading or even build a retaining wall.

You don’t have to build your walk 7 ft. wide like we did, but keep it at least 4 ft. wide to maintain an attractive balance between the stone and the brick. We used a clay paving brick with a soft texture and irregular edges that make it look aged, as if it’s been there forever. When selecting a brick, make sure it’s a paver that’s made to be set in the ground and that has a “severe weather” rating if you have freezing weather.

Big, flat stones are called flagstone, in this case a Wisconsin limestone called Chilton. Stone type and availability vary considerably by region. Choose one that complements your house color and the brick you select. Be sure it’s 1-1/2 to 3 in. thick to avoid cracking over time.

The rounded stone is called fieldstone. We found some rock in our local landscape yard that fit well in the niches of the flagstone. We handpicked 45 of them for our project but they were expensive. If you don’t want to pay the premium price or if this type isn’t available in your area, any fieldstone with at least one reasonably flat face will work. Collect them from your yard or pick through a boulder pile at a landscape yard. Get a variety of sizes from 6 to 18 in. in diameter and 2 to 4 in. thick. Thicker ones will work, but they’re more difficult to set.

Path layout

Lay out and dig the walk 6 to 8 in. wider than the actual size (Photo 1). The extra width supports the paver edging that you’ll install later to keep the brick on the edge from tipping. Locating the walk against the house makes setting the grade easy. Snap a tightly pulled chalk line below the door to the drive to represent the top of the sidewalk and work from this reference (Photo 2). It’s best to set the walk height slightly higher than the surrounding lawn area, 1 in. or so, but no more than 8 in. below a door or the step down will be too high. And plan a slight slope across the width to help drainage, about 1 in. in 6 ft. If you build your walk away from the house, stretch tight string lines to represent the finished height of the walk.

Excavate this job with a buddy who owes you a favor

Digging’s a lot of work, but this is a small enough area that you can dig it out in a few hours with a helper. If you have a low-lying area nearby, dump the extra soil there. Otherwise you might have to rent a 10-cu.-yd. trash bin. Photo 2 shows you how to check the depth of your excavation against your reference line. Since the lawn will probably dip and rise along the outside edge, you may have to add soil to the lawn or cut some away to meet the walk edge evenly. Do this after you set the brick. Dig as accurately as possible. If you dig too deep, fill the area back in with soil and compact with the compactor before adding the gravel.

We had every utility line in the book coming underground into this side of the house (Photo 1), which really slowed down the digging. Carefully dig parallel to these lines, then pull the wires or cable aside to avoid cutting them. After digging, lay them back down and bury them under the gravel.

Move any sprinkler lines that run under the walk or the plate compactor might crush them. You can generally move a sprinkler head yourself if you’re familiar with installation techniques (Photo 3). Otherwise, call in a pro.

Build a firm base

Lay your walk on top of a 6-in. bed of compacted gravel. Skimp on this step and your brick path will settle and heave within a few seasons. Order gravel that ranges in size from 3/4 in. down to a powder (called 3/4 in. -minus or Class II). Figure the volume in cubic feet by multiplying the length (ft.) x width (ft.) x depth (1/2 ft.) of your walk. Add 6 in. to each side that’s not bound by the house and round up the volume to allow for compaction of the gravel. Have it delivered and dumped on the driveway. (Move your car out of the garage first!) Shoveling gravel off pavement is easier than shoveling it off the lawn. At the same time, order about one-fourth as much coarse, washed sand to set the brick on.

Before you spread the gravel, line the excavation with a heavy woven material called stabilization fabric (Photo 4), available from a landscape supplier. It’ll prevent the gravel from mixing with the softer soil underneath, so you’ll have a stable, flat walk for years to come. If it’s not available in your area, substitute a heavy woven landscape fabric.

Fill and compact only a 2- to 3-in. layer of gravel at a time. Rake it out at a consistent depth, using the chalk line on the house as a guide. Run over each layer with the plate compactor at least four times, until the tone of the tamper changes from a dull thud to a hopping rap (Photo 4). Compact corners with a hand tamper.

Use two 1-in. (outside diameter) steel pipes (available from a home center) as a guide to smooth out the last gravel layer (Photos 5 – 7). Take your time when setting this layer. It determines the final grade for the stone and brick. Use a 2×4 marked at 2-3/4 in. to level the pipe closest to the house (Photo 5). Add or remove gravel to support the pipe. To set the walk slope (for draining water away from the house), position the second pipe about an inch lower than the first (Photo 6). Figure 1/8 to 1/4 in. slope per foot, depending on your need for drainage. Screed the last layer of gravel flat and compact it (Photo 7).

Setting the stone

Flagstone has dips, waves and irregular edges that’ll test your patience when you’re setting it. The trick is to focus on making the overall surface a flat plane. Don’t obsess over a low corner or an edge that doesn’t match up perfectly. They won’t. Set three or four stones in an inch or two of sand, then check them in a few places with your 2×4 screed or a level (Photos 8 and 9). Raise or lower any stones that don’t line up. Use your chalk line as a height guideline and maintain your slope for drainage.

When fitting the flagstones, select pieces that naturally fit together. If you have to tweak a piece, chip away edges slowly with a glancing blow of a brick hammer. (Be sure to wear safety glasses when cutting or chipping brick and stone.) Take off too much and you’ll break the stone—usually in the wrong spot! Try to keep the joints no wider than 1-1/2 in.

When placing the fieldstone, set a grouping in place before setting the height (Photo 10). Stand back and scan them, then adjust the shapes, sizes and colors of the arrangement until you like it. Then set them. Make the tops flush with the flagstone or a hair high. Don’t fuss too much; you can always change out a stone later.

How to Move Heavy Flagstones

Flagstones ranging in size from 18 to 42 in. weigh 100 to 300 lbs. plus. These tips will help you get them into place:

• Tip and gently flip large pieces. Don’t try to lift them.
• Tip the pieces onto a dolly with a helper and roll them close to their position. With help, lower them into place.
• Pry the pieces up with a 3-ft. bar to add or remove sand.
• If a piece is just too big to move, break it in half with a sledge. Then match the broken edges, spacing them about 1/2 in. apart so the break looks intentional.

Screed a sand bed

Here’s where the careful setting of the last gravel layer pays off. Again use the pipes to lay an even 1-in. thick bed of sand. You’ll need a shorter pipe to screed sections between the stones (Photo 11). Clear away enough sand left from setting the stone so the pipes rest completely on the compacted gravel layer. Then dump a wheelbarrow of sand between the pipes, spread it out and screed it. Use your trowel to screed in areas you can’t reach with the 2×4.

Don’t compact or walk on the sand layer. You want it smooth for setting the brick. However, you can step on the stone and brick after they’re in place. Next establish lines to guide the brick layout (Photos 13 and 14). In general, set your layout to minimize brick cutting and to avoid small pieces along the edges (Photo 16).

Tip: Lay bricks end to end in the driveway and take measurements to get dimensions for positioning layout lines to your best advantage (Photo 13). It’s also a good way to establish the exact path width.

Laying brick is quick work

Have the brick delivered as close to the walk as possible. Although not necessary, a brick tong (Photo 16) will cut your carrying time by more than half. With it you can easily carry nine or 10 bricks at once. Consider borrowing or buying one from your brick supplier.

As you lay the brick, leave open every space that won’t accept a full brick. It’s faster to cut them all at once later. Every 8 ft. or so, check that your rows are straight with the 2×4 screed. Gap the next row slightly to straighten it. Gaps up to 1/8 in. won’t be noticeable after the joints are filled with sand.

Cutting brick

The best way to cut brick is with a wet saw with a diamond blade, but the clean cut it leaves would be out of character for this rustic walk. So we decided to score the cuts on the underside with an angle grinder (Photo 18) equipped with a diamond blade, then break them with a sharp blow from a brick chisel. The ragged edge looks better with the stone. Scoring the pieces generates a lot of dust and is noisy, so wear a dust mask, earplugs and safety glasses. Cut large pieces first, then fill in the smaller ones. If a piece is too big after you cut it, chip the edge off with a brick hammer to fit. Not every cut has to be exact. Sand will fill in the joints.

Paver edging holds the brick and sand in place

Install special paver edging around the perimeter of the brick and stone (Photo 19), available from a brick or landscape supplier. Each piece locks to the next. When you install it, remember where your sprinkler, phone and cable lines run to avoid piercing them with a spike.

Tamping the brick is a two-step process

First tamp the brick without sand. It’ll smooth out the surface and bring sand up from underneath into the joints. Tie a scrap piece of carpet on the bottom of the tamper to avoid chipping the brick. Next spread dry sand over the surface. Or use leftover sand from the setting bed, if it’s dry. Another option is to buy bags of all-purpose sand. Tamp again. This will lock all the bricks together.

A tight, solid brick and stone walk doesn’t require any maintenance except a simple cleaning with a garden hose once or twice a season. And you can blend your garden right into the walk by planting a ground cover in the joints between the stone, or introduce moss for an aged look.

Figure A: Path Details

How to Install Paver Walkway: Mark the Layout

Paint a line 7 ft. 6 in. away from the house to mark the edge of the sidewalk excavation.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Excavate

Dig 6 to 8 in. of soil from the sidewalk area. Then snap a chalk line on the house to represent the top of the sidewalk. Excavate to a depth of 9 in. below the chalk line with a slight slope away from the house. Caution: Call the local utilities or 811 to locate any buried lines in the vicinity before digging.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Move Utility Lines

Dig around utility lines carefully and lay them at the bottom of the excavation when finished. Cut and reset irrigation lines according to system directions.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Spread and Compact Gravel

Lay fabric over the excavation, spread 2 to 3 in. of gravel and rake it smooth. Dampen the gravel, then pass over the area at least four times with a plate compactor. Repeat with a second 2- to 3-in. layer of gravel.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Add a Final Layer

Spread a final loose layer of gravel about 1 in. thick. Set a 10-ft. x 1-in. outside diameter steel pipe in the gravel and level it 2-3/4 in. below the chalk line.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Use Pipes to Guide a Level Screed

Set a second pipe parallel to the first near the outer edge and level it about 1 in. below the first pipe, using a straight 2×4 and a 4-ft. level with a 3/4-in. scrap block under one end.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Level the Gravel

Pull a 2×4 along the pipes to flatten the loose gravel and fill in low spots. Remove the pipes and fill in the troughs with gravel. Then compact.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Begin Setting Flagstone

Dump a few wheelbarrows of sand on the gravel and set the flagstone 3-in. above the gravel layer. Adjust the corners, adding and removing sand as needed.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Maintain a Slight Slope

Check the surface of the stone with your level so it maintains a slight slope away from the house. Raise or lower edges with the sand.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Fill In with the Fieldstone

Set the fieldstone tightly in the niches of the flagstone. For thicker stone, scrape gravel away with the claw of a hammer. Stand back to check the overall appearance. Change or reset stones that look out of place.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Screed Sand for the Bricks

Rest 1-in. pipes on the compacted gravel, using a short pipe in areas enclosed by stone. Check the slope as in Photo 6, then add sand. Screed the sand off with your 2×4.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Smooth the Sand Bed

Remove the pipes, fill the troughs with sand and smooth with a trowel. Also smooth the areas around the stones with your trowel.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Establish a Right Angle

Snap a chalk line in the sand 6-1/2 brick lengths (about 50-1/2 in.) away from the house. Set a brick at a starting point along the chalk line. Then establish a right angle using the ‘3, 4, 5 triangle’ method.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Snap the Layout Lines

Snap a perpendicular line, then snap a parallel line half a brick length (about 4 in.) away from the first to get the offset for adjacent rows.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Offset Each Row

Lay the brick, starting from the perpendicular line, offsetting every row a half brick.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Place the Full Bricks

Set full bricks at the outer edge of the walk to form a ‘soldier’ row. Leave bricks out that need to be cut and cut them later.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Mark Bricks for Cutting

Hold a brick in place and mark each edge of the cut with a marker. Mark each piece slightly small so it will fit.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Cut the Brick

Score a 1/2-in. deep groove in the underside of the brick with an angle grinder. Then set the brick on scrap carpet, position the brick chisel in the cut and rap it with the hammer to break it, leaving a rough edge.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Attach Paver Edging

Cut away the sand along the edge of the sidewalk down to the gravel with the edge of a trowel. Fasten paver edging along the perimeter of the walk with spikes driven every 12 in.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Begin Compacting

Tie a carpet scrap to the bottom of the plate compactor. Make four passes over the brick and edge of the stone, beginning with the perimeter. 

How to Install Paver Walkway: Fill the Joints with Sand

Sweep dry sand into the brick joints. Run the compactor over the brick and sweep in more sand until the joints are completely full.

The post How to Build Pathways: Brick and Stone Pathways appeared first on Family Handyman.

Begin your planning with a call to your local building department to learn about local fire restrictions. Many regions require burning permits and restrict the size of a fire ring.

Choose an area that’s about 18 ft. in diameter and relatively flat. Be sure to locate the fire ring away from trees, bushes and buildings. Remember that burning wood snaps and pops, sending sparks into the air.

Mark the fire ring and patio

Drive a pipe firmly into the ground at the center of the fire ring. Loop a string over the stake and measure out 9 ft. Mark this point with tape. Hold a can of marking spray paint at the tape and spray the complete circle.

Remove the sod

Cut away the sod with a sod cutter. Follow the perimeter and then cut away the inside of the circle. Leave the pipe in place.

Dig Until the Flagstone is 1-in. Below the Sod

Remove enough dirt so that the top of the flagstone sits 1 in. below the surrounding sod. The sod cutter works well for shaving down the grade, but a flat shovel works well too.

Assemble the Ring

Spread a sand base

Drive a 6-in. landscape spike beside the center pipe until it’s 2 in. below the sod level. Drive six additional spikes about 3 ft. away from the center, spacing them evenly around the center. Level the top of each spike with the center one, then spread sand in the circle flush with the tops of the spikes.

Place the first row of stones

Draw a 21-in. radius circle with the string and marking paint. Lay the first row of retaining wall stones (12 in our case) along the line, minimizing the gaps between them. Twist each stone back and forth a few times in the sand to firmly set it. Make the tops level.

Finish setting the stones

Set the second row of stones on top of the first. Straddle the joints of the first row.

Lay the Sitting Area

Many types of materials will make a nice sitting area: various gravels; stone, brick or concrete pavers; flagstones; or even poured concrete. Irregular flagstones with grass planted between them gave us an attractive, informal look. A flagstone sitting area is easy to lay and easy to maintain. Just run the lawn mower over the stones to trim the grass.

Fit the flagstones to the fire ring

Spread 1 in. of sand over the sitting area. Fit the first flagstone tightly to the fire ring. Twist it into the sand to firmly set it. If it rocks, add or remove sand to stabilize it.

Finish laying the stone

Fit and set stones out to the circle’s edge. Keep the flagstone edges flush to one another and leave 2- to 4-in. spaces in between. You can break larger flagstones with a sledgehammer. Caution: Wear eye protection when breaking stone.

Fill the gaps between the flagstones

Fill the spaces between the stones with topsoil to about 1/2 in. below the top. Then cut sod with a knife to fit between the stones. Press the sod firmly into the soil and keep the sod damp until it has rooted.

The post How To Build a Fire Pit with Landscaping Stones appeared first on Family Handyman.

First: How to Mix Concrete

Before you start on your first concrete project, take some time to learn the best way to mix concrete. This will ensure that your project doesn’t crumble when you take it out of the form and that it will last for years to come. Watch and read how Family Handyman editor, Gary Wentz, recommends mixing concrete.

Concrete Countertops

Concrete countertops are increasing in popularity and can be made either with traditional concrete or with new countertop concrete. And with the option to inlay objects and designs in the concrete, there are limitless options. Interested in exploring some more concrete countertops? Check out these 15 great ideas.

Stool Tops

If you have a 5-gallon bucket, some concrete and three legs, you can make a concrete-seat stool. With minimal material and a little time you can make this simple stool. Here’s how!

Utensil Holder/Wine Chiller

This concrete utensil holder would look great in any modern or rustic kitchen. It’s an attractive place to store essential kitchen utensils or a bottle of bubbly. Why not try whittling your own kitchen spoons—here are some tips.

Shelves

Whether over the toilet, the kitchen sink or in your home office, concrete shelving makes a statement. Making the form for a shelf is easy. Try using a sheet of melamine, seal the joints with caulk and wax the surface to make removing the set concrete easier. Not sure you’re ready to tackle concrete shelves, try some made of wood!

Book Ends

Now that you have those shelves up, time to display some books. However, books won’t stay up on their own. With the remaining melamine and concrete how about trying your hand at some stylish bookends. Make a form that can easily be taken apart and rebuilt so you can produce several sets for each of your shelves.

Concrete House Numbers

Large, legible house numbers help delivery people, firefighters and EMTs and guests who haven’t been to your house before. Here’s everything you need to know to make these large, long-lasting Here’s everything you need to know to make these large, long-lasting concrete house numbers.

Take a look at these 10 additional DIY house number projects for more inspiration.

Drawer Pulls

Why not concrete drawer pulls? They’re great looking and a pretty easy DIY project. A couple of ice cube trays and bolts to set into the concrete and you’re off. Be sure to buy bolts that are long enough to go through the drawers, and the right diameter to go through the existing holes. Check out the how-to steps here.

This is our all-time favorite drawer hack!

Stone Inlayed Bench

If you build this beautiful concrete bench with stone inlay, it will be around for many decades to come. Here are the complete step-by-step instructions so you can make a bench like this for your yard or garden.

Concrete Tabletop

This beautiful table’s concrete top is fun to make and completely customizable. We used fern leaves for this design, but you can use whatever leaves, seashells, tiles or other embellishments you’d like. Here are the complete instructions for how to make this table.

If you’re looking for something a little more robust, here is a handsome outdoor table made entirely of concrete.

Air Plant Planer

Concrete does not have to be massive and imposing. There are countless smaller, more delicate projects than can be made from just a little concrete mixed in a 5-quart pail.

Kitchen castoffs can make great planters too, check out some of our favorites.

The post 10 Ways You Didn’t Know You Could Use Concrete appeared first on Family Handyman.

Your sore back is screaming for a break from shoveling your driveway for the 10th time in two weeks. Or, perhaps you’re tired of bundling up in all those layers and snowplowing the driveway, only to do it all over again tomorrow.

No snowblower? This is the best way to shovel your driveway.

Have you considered a heated driveway?

Radiant heating slabs have been around for decades and have been growing in popularity in residential settings for the last 15 years, especially for areas that see measurable snowfall every year.

Check out these incredible snow removal tools.

Two Types of Heated Driveways

There are two systems available for heating driveways: A water-based hydronic system or an electric system. Electric systems are more affordable to install since you don’t need to purchase a boiler to heat the water. However, the cost of operating an electric system is higher.

Installing a hydronic system involves putting in PEX tubing under the driveway’s surface. The tubing is filled a non-freezing water solution that circulates through the boiler which is generally placed in the garage.

Electric systems use heating mats and cables, in a grid pattern, installed under the driveway’s surface.

Neither system requires much maintenance, although if you go with a hydronic system, have the boiler inspected once a year.

These 13 snow blowing tips make snow removal quick and easy.

How Much Does a Heated Driveway Cost?

While heated driveways will help you save on snow removal and damage often caused by salt and ice melting products, they are pricey to install.

Expect to pay $16,000 or more to install a heating system for an average-size driveway if the existing driveway needs to be removed to install the system. If the system is installed during new construction, it will cost less.

You’ll also want to factor in that you’ll pay more in utilities because the systems use gas or electricity to operate.

However, if installed correctly, you’ll get about 20 years of use from a heated driveway before it needs replacement. That’s a lot of shoveling and snowblowing you won’t have to do!

These 10 great snow and ice removal hacks will come in handy this winter.

The post A Heated Driveway: Is It Actually Worth It? appeared first on Family Handyman.

What to Know Before Buying Diamond Blades

If you work in construction, it’s more than likely that you own a diamond blade or two. Cutting through hard materials like concrete, asphalt, tile, brick, and stone can be challenging, especially when you’re not using the proper blade. It can be a bit overwhelming trying to figure out which diamond blade to choose with all of the options out there.

There are four basic questions you should always ask yourself before picking a diamond blade for your next project:

What are you cutting?

The type of material you want to cut will determine what type of bond to look for. Bonds are the mixture of metals that hold the diamonds together and secure them on the blade. Different bonds have different wear rates depending on their density. Most bonds are referred to as soft, medium or hard. If you’re cutting very dense concrete, a softer bond will perform best. It seems counterintuitive, but you want the bonds to wear down faster when cutting hard materials. That’s because there are more diamonds buried in the bonding material below the surface of a new blade and as the blade wears down more fresh diamonds are exposed. The diamonds on a blade will either wear, fracture or get ripped off the blade. Proper wear is what you’re after. If you’re cutting brick or asphalt, you would want a blade with a harder bond. The diamonds will stay cooler when cutting softer materials which helps them maintain their integrity.

When choosing a blade and determining the hardness of bonds that you will be using, keep in mind that it will not always be listed on the packaging. Typically, the packaging of a blade will make it clear what the blade is meant to be used for. If a blade is made for cutting concrete, the packaging will say concrete and show a picture of concrete. It’s also important to remember that bond strengths are listed differently from manufacturer to manufacturer.

Bond strengths can be listed in numbers of 10,20,30,40,50 or 1000,2000,3000,4000,5000- it just depends on who is producing them. Some companies even label bond hardness by color. Just remember: the lower the number the softer the bond, and the higher the number the harder the bond.

What kind of saw are you using?

Each saw spins at a different RPM, and most blades are designed to be spun at a specific RPM. Installing a mismatched blade on your grinder or saw will result in inefficient cutting and could even lead to serious injuries. The blade package should state the blade’s proper RPM range.

Is it a wet or dry saw?

Years ago, most diamond blades needed a continuous supply of water to keep them cool. That’s because the diamonds were silver soldiered in place and couldn’t handle the heat. The diamonds on modern blades are welded on with lasers and can handle the heat better. But just because a blade is sold as a “dry blade” doesn’t mean that it won’t cut faster and last longer if you keep it cool with water.

What diameter blade is needed?

Diamond blades come in many different sizes. The most common sizes are between 4 and 16 inches. Always use the size that the tool manufacturer recommends.

Types of Diamond bBlades

Segmented blades

These are the most popular general use blades and usually have medium to hard bonds Segmented blades are perfect for dry cutting because segmentation helps keep them cool. Segmented blades are commonly used to cut pavers, concrete and asphalt.

Serrated (turbo)

The serrated edges on these blades pushes the debris out of the way which allows them to make fast smooth cuts. Serrated turbo blades can be used in wet and dry applications. With the soft to medium bonds, this blade is good for cutting tile, natural stone, marble and granite.

Continuous blades

These are the cleanest cutting blades, which makes them ideal for cutting finished edges. These blades are the slowest cutting of the bunch, and they do require water to keep them cool. With their softer bonds they are best for cutting hard material like ceramic tile and porcelain.

The post Which Diamond Blades Are Best? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Mask off the surrounding area (Photo with step 1), then use the pump sprayer to apply a first coat followed by a “curtain” coat (Photo with step 2).

1. Protect Trim and Plants

Mask off surfaces, such as trim boards, siding, house numbers and mailboxes. Cover plants and grass with tarps to prevent kill-off from the spray.

2. Apply in Two Steps

Spray the stonework with the first coat of waterproofer. Then immediately apply a liberal, wet-on-wet “curtain coat” so that the solution drips down 6 to 8 in. over the entire surface.

There’s nothing better than a job well done in the great outdoors. Whether you want a quick morning project or are looking to add a real statement piece to your yard, we have you covered. Check out these 34 Awesome Outdoor DIY Projects to Get You Outside.

The post 2 Simple Steps to Protect Your Exterior Stonework appeared first on Family Handyman.

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Outdoor pavilion plans

Figure A

Figure B- Typical Platform Cross Section

Figure C

Figure D- Hip Rafters

Figure E- Common Rafters

Figure F- Jack Rafters

Figure G

Site details

The pavilion’s patio base is easier to build if you have a level site. Uneven sites must be built up on the low side with extra landscape timbers.

To construct the patio, you’ll have to remove the turf with a sod cutter or shovel, then do a bit of digging. Our site has clay soil, which doesn’t drain well, so we added a few inches of sand beneath the timbers to drain away excess moisture. If your soil drains well, you can just dig to the thickness of the timbers and pour the 3/4-in. concrete base between the timbers, right over the undisturbed soil.

Getting started with outdoor pavilion plans

After you choose a site, pound stakes into the ground 11 feet apart to establish your digging area. To make sure your staked area is square, just measure the diagonals. They must be equal to have a square perimeter. Stakes and string always seem to get in the way, so mark the turf with spray marking paint, which is available at hardware stores.

Dig out the turf to a level depth of 5-1/2 in. Cut timbers to the dimensions in the Materials List. (We used an electric chain saw, but a circular saw followed by a handsaw will do just fine.) Then spike them together at the corners.

• Pro tip: It’s best to stand on the timber you’re driving the spike into. It keeps the timbers from moving each time the sledge meets the spike.

Spike the outside perimeter together first, then the inner. After the timbers are joined, square the outside frame (remember, the diagonal measurements must be equal), then the inside frame. To make sure all the timbers are level and the inner frame is level with the outer frame, set a 4 ft. level along each timber. A bit of soil placed under the low sections will level them.

Before continuing, make sure the inside frame is 24-1/4 inches inside the outer frame on each side. Tamp a bit of soil around the timbers to hold them in place. You can also drive some wood stakes along the outside of each timber frame to keep it in position while you pour concrete. Now’s the time to prepare the pier forms for each corner as shown in the Figure A, so they’re ready when you pour the concrete.

Lay out an 11-ft. square area with marking paint. The area will be a bit larger than the patio to allow some elbow room to spike the timbers. Dig out the turf with a shovel or sod cutter to a depth of 5-1/2 inches. If you have a low spot on any side, you may need extra timbers to level the area.

Connect the timbers with 12-in. spike nails at each corner. Build the exterior perimeter first, then the inner. Our soil was mostly clay, so we dug a bit deeper and laid the timbers over 2 in. of sand for better drainage.

Pouring concrete

You’ll need a bit less than 1 cubic yard of concrete to fill the inside of the timbers to a depth of 3-1/4 inches. That would be over 50 bags of dry concrete mix! Hand mixing would wear your palms to the bone and fix your back in a permanent bend. So call a ready-mix company and have them deliver 1 cu. yd. of concrete (about $90). This is a bit more than you need, but it’s worth having extra. To get the right concrete mixture, just tell them you’re pouring a sidewalk, and they’ll send out the appropriate stuff.

Have a wheelbarrow or two ready, along with a couple of extra string backs when the truck pulls up. Pour the concrete into the forms and have a 2×4 ready to screed (smooth) the surface. The notches in the 2×4 screed are 2-1/4 inches deep. This will give you room for sand to level the patio stones after the concrete is set. Next, screw the pier forms to the timbers.

Fill the pier forms with concrete as soon as the area inside of the timber frame is poured and leveled. The concrete in the piers needs to bond with the concrete underneath, so work fast. A hot, dry day will give you only about an hour or less of working time, so don’t get sidetracked. The piers are the only part that has to work nice, so save the trowel work for them.

Screed the concrete 2-1/4 inches below the top of the timbers on the inside of both timber frames. Don’t worry about getting the surface smooth because later, you’ll put a layer of sand over the hardened concrete to level the patio pavers.

Install the forms for the piers on each corner while the concrete below is still moist. Shovel a firm mixture of concrete into the forms and use a trowel to smooth it. The concrete can be shaped easily with a towel on the open sides of the forms.

Installing the patio pavers

The next day, you’ll find the concrete hard enough to lay the patio pavers. You can buy these at most home centers or patio supply stores. Check the thickness of your pavers before you buy. Our pavers were a bit under 2 inches thick so we needed to level about 3/8 inch of sand (all-purpose or play sand from your home center) over the concrete as a bed for them. Make another screed with a notch cut that is the same thickness as your pavers. Pour in the sand and pull the screed board across the timbers to even the sand over the concrete. Next, lay the pavers in place as shown in the Figs. A and B. We selected two colors to complement the pavilion, but you can design your own pattern.

You may need to level some of the corners of the patio stones further. Just lift the paver and add or remove sand as needed. If your patio ended up a bit out of square, you may have to cut the edges of some pavers to make them fit. If so, use a masonry blade for your circular saw, put on some goggles and gloves, and trim the edges.

After spreading a thin layer of sand over the concrete, lay the patio stones in place. Sprinkle handfuls of sand to level the stones with the tops of the timbers.

Outline the post locations by tracing around the end cuts of the posts. Be sure you place the outer edges of the inner post 78 inches apart to get the right locations to conform with the beams above. This is crucial for the roof framing to align. Allow a 3-inch space between the inner and outer columns.

Making the steel post supports

We made our 2 x 3 x 1/4-in. steel supports from a length of steel angle we purchased from a welding shop. You can cut the 5-in. lengths with an aluminum oxide metal-cutting blade placed in your circular saw, but it’s easier to have the welding shop cut them to length for you. Most shops have a shear that easily cuts the steel angle. It’ll probably cost about $1 per cut.

You can either drill the 9/16-in. holes in the post supports yourself, or if you don’t like working with metal, have the welding shop do the drilling, too. If you do it yourself, use a heavy-duty electric drill. Start with a 1/4-in. hole, then enlarge it with a 9/16-in. bit. Be sure to clamp the supports in a vise to keep them from moving as you drill. Use a little motor oil on the bit as you drill to keep the bit cool.

When you’re done drilling the holes, file any sharp edges and clean the metal with mineral spirits. Spray paint the supports with two coats of rust-inhibiting paint.

Drill into the concrete piers to fasten the steel brackets made from 3 x 3-in. steel angle. The 1/2-in. concrete anchors grip the concrete as the nuts are tightened.

Fastening the posts

Cut the cedar posts to length, then use the cut-off ends to help you lay out the locations for the steel supports. The posts should be 78 inches from the edges of the inner posts on each corner, as shown in Figure B. Mark the edges of each post location and the hole locations of the supports with a pencil. Drill 1/2-in. holes into the concrete to accept the concrete anchor bolts. This type of anchor is designed to grip the concrete as you tighten the nut. Drive the anchor bolts into the holes with a hammer, install the support, washer and nut and tighten the nut with a wrench.

While a helper holds each post against each steel support, drill 3/8-in. pilot holes through the support into the post for the 3 x 1/2-in. lag screws. Use a wrench to tighten the lag screws. Complete only two sides as shown in Photo 8.

After clamping each beam to the posts, fasten it in place. The bolts are made from 1/2-in. threaded rods, and the beams are made from two 2×8 cedar boards.

Installing the beams

You’ll also need assistance to get the beams in place and clamped while you drill for the threaded rod. Start with the longer beams. Cut the 1/2-in. threaded rod to length with a hacksaw. Cut it 1/2 inch shorter than the measurement of two posts and the thickness of the beam. This will hide the rod ends, washers and nuts within the post.

Drill the countersink holes 1-1/4 inch deep into the posts. Then drill a 1/2-in. hole through the post, beam and the post on the backside. Drill very carefully so the bit comes out in the right location on the opposite side. You can buy a long bit at home centers. If you can’t find a long bit, you can buy a 1/2-in. spade drill bit and an extension. Slip a washer and nut on the end of the rod and drive it through with a hammer. Put a washer and nut on the side and tighten each side with a socket wrench.

Install the short beams the same way as the longer beams. These are fastened with just one steel rod. After the beams are in place, check to see if the posts are plumb using a level. If they need to be adjusted, install a 2×4 brace from the bottom of one post to the top of an opposite post, check for plumb again and nail it in place. Keep the brace in position until you’ve completed the roof.

Insert the threaded rods after drilling a countersink hole and a pilot hole. The countersink hole will recess the threaded rod, washers and nuts.

Position the notched stringers between the beams. You can bend 16d nails over as shown to hold them in place, then drill and insert the lag screws.

Framing the roof

Install the double 2×6 interior stringers. These stringers provide extra support as the roof pushes out against the beams. Nail the stringers together (avoid the center area) with 10d galvanized common nails, then notch the centers of each. Fasten them flush with the top, and center each beam using two 5 x 1/2-in. lag screws.

Cut two longer hip rafters to the dimensions shown in Fig. C and fasten them together at the top with two 3-in. galvanized deck screws. Grab a partner and walk the rafter assembly up the ladders and nail it to the beams with four 10d galvanized common nails (two nails per side). Be sure the hip rafters fall directly over the intersections of the beams at the corners.

Next, cut the two remaining hip rafters; these are 3/4-inch shorter at the top than the other pair to make up for the thickness of the rafters already installed. Nail each of these to the pair of hip rafters.

Cut the four common rafters. You’ll notice in Fig. C that they have cheek cuts on the top. These 45-degree cuts on each side allow the common rafters to fit against the hips tightly. Nail them at the center of the beam and at the top.

Next, cut the jack rafters. These rafters have a compound cut at the top, as shown in Fig. C. Four of them are right-sided, and four are left-sided. Nail them to the beam and to the hip rafter with three 8d galvanized common nails.

Now it’s time to cut the 2×8 fascia boards (Fig. A) and nail them to the rafter tails with 16d galv. common nails. You’ll need to tail them so 3/4 inch of each rafter is above the inside edge of the fascia. This will allow the roof decking to sit flat on the rafters’ tops and the fascia’s outside edge.

Position the first set of hip rafters onto the beams. Get some assistance because this can be awkward. The hips should fall directly over the intersections of the beams.

Nail the jack rafters to the beams and hip rafters. Use 8d galvanized nails when nailing the jack rafters into the hip rafters.

Decking and shingling the roof

Our design uses 12-ft. pieces of 5/4 cedar decking for the roof deck because it’s great looking from the inside and thick enough to keep the shingle nails from poking through. Starting at the bottom, place the first board so it hangs over the fascia 1-1/4 inches. Nail the decking into the rafters with 8d galvanized common nails. Place the nails carefully because you’ll be able to see any goofs from inside the pavilion. Push the boards together so there aren’t any gaps between courses.

Once you’ve finished decking, staple 30-lb. roofing felt over the decking. We used No. 2 cedar shingles on the roof. They have a few knots but are rustic and add some charm to the structure. Your first row of shingles will be an underlayment for the first course. Let them hang beyond the bottom of the roof deck 1/2 inch. Then, nail shingles directly over this course, making sure to offset the seams with the underlayment course. Use 3d galvanized box nails. Start the next course 5 in. above the first. You can have an even reveal or stagger the shingles.

Staggering them randomly gives a more hand-built look. Complete each side and trim the shingles as you go with a fine-toothed plywood blade in your circular saw. You can also shave the edges to fit with a utility knife of plane. To finish off the seams above the hips of the roof, use preassembled cedar roof caps, which are sold at lumberyards.

Finally, sealing the entire pavilion with a deck sealer is a good idea. This will keep the shingles, beams and posts from cracking in the sun. After two of three months, check the bolts, nuts and lag screws. As the wood dries and shrinks, they may need tightening.

The post How To Build a Post and Beam Pavilion appeared first on Family Handyman.

While concrete is a low-maintenance patio surface, it’s still susceptible to rust stains. This can be caused by metal patio furniture, grills or umbrella stands that rust in the weather and stain the concrete. Or, you could have iron in your water source like I did.

My concrete slab got rust stains on it because the lawn sprinklers were fed from a well that was full of iron. It took about eight years for it to turn a deep rusty color. So I worked out a system that was cheap, easy and effective although one of the steps did take a bit of elbow grease. Read on for a step-by-step guide to remove rust from concrete and restore your outdoor space.

Removing Rust From Concrete

The whole process only took an hour or so for an 8-ft. x 20-ft. slab. You’ll need to buy a gallon or two of muriatic acid for about $20, a pump up sprayer and a good stiff brush that you can screw into a sturdy handle.

Power Wash the Slab

The first thing I did was power wash the slab to get rid of any surface dirt. I’m not sure power washing is important, but I figured any surface dirt might insulate the rust deposits preventing them from being dissolved by the next step: the acid.

Load Up Pump Sprayer

In a pump up sprayer, I mixed a 50/50 solution of water and a product called Acid Magic. Acid Magic is a brand name for hydrochloric acid, with a stronger pH than the very same acid you have in your stomach, so always wear rubber gloves and eye protection.

The next day, I began the process by dampening the concrete with water from the garden hose.

Then I began spraying the acid on the concrete making sure everything had a good coat. I left the acid on for 30-minutes or so, and resprayed any areas that began to dry out.

About halfway through, I scrubbed all of the concrete with a stiff brush. Then I rinsed everything off and let it dry. I saw that there were a few spots that needed retreating so I gave them another shot with the sprayer, let them soak, scrubbed again and rinsed it all off.

I was afraid that all that acid would kill the grass growing against the concrete so I gave it a soaking for about an hour with a little sprinkler to dilute all that acid runoff.

The grass did die a few inches away from the concrete but seems to be coming back two weeks later. In hindsight, a longer soaking would be a good idea.

By the way, my rust stain issues are now over because I added a water softener, which removes the iron from the well water.

FAQ

How do I keep concrete from staining?

Prevent concrete from staining by regularly applying a sealant. Also, clean up spills quickly, prevent standing water with proper drainage and promptly remove leaves.

How can I change the color of my concrete?

Concrete can be stained, painted, dyed or overlayed to change the color. Before changing the color, you’ll need to remove any previous coatings and complete necessary repairs.

The post How To Remove Rust From Concrete appeared first on Family Handyman.

When a brick works loose, you can’t just shove mortar in around it and expect the repair to last. Pull it out and fix it right.

It’ll take you at least 20 minutes to remove a loose brick from a wall and clean off the old mortar from both the wall cavity and brick. If possible, reuse the old bricks. New brick will never match the texture or aged color of the original.

Chip out old mortar

Chip away the old mortar with a cold chisel or flat utility chisel. Hold the chisel at a low angle, work it in under the mortar and hit the chisel with short, light hammer blows. Dust out the cavity using a whisk broom and dampen it with water to improve mortar adhesion.

Clean the brick

Knock the mortar off the old brick by holding the chisel at a high angle and hitting it with rapid, light blows while moving the chisel tip quickly over the surface of the hardened mortar. Clean the brick with a wire brush and rinse it off with water.

Apply new mortar

Apply a 1/2-inch layer of mortar to the bottom, both sides of the cavity and the top of the brick. Slide the brick into the cavity.

Point the mortar

Pack the mortar oozing from the joints with a brick trowel and a 3/8-inch-wide pointing tool. Add more mortar by sliding it directly off the trowel and into the joint. Finish the joint surfaces to match the shape of adjacent joints.

General Tips for Resetting Bricks

When resetting bricks, follow these guidelines:

• Select bagged mortar mix, not sand or concrete mix.
• Wear safety glasses and waterproof gloves; mortar contains alkaline chemicals that can burn you.
• Add latex additive to the water and mix the mortar in a shallow container (like an old dishpan) to the consistency of peanut butter.
• Mix small batches of mortar. Hot, dry weather and direct sunlight can reduce the viable working time of the mortar from 60 minutes to 30.
• Immediately clean mortar smears off brick faces using a soft-bristle brush (a wire brush may leave rust marks). If the mortar dries, you’ll have to use chemicals to remove it.

Looking for ideas to revamp your plain brick house or fireplace? Consider German smear, a mortar wash technique that transforms the look of plain brick.

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