Best Overall Garage Floor Tile

MotorDeck Diamond Modular Flooring Tile

Easy installation, wallet-friendly pricing and good color selection are just a few of the qualities that put this MotorDeck Diamond Modular Tile at the top of our list. Designed with high-quality polypropylene, this product also features a non-slip design that resists penetration by grease, oil and other staining liquids. The 12-inch by 12-inch tiles come in a 24-piece package in black, alloy, graphite, red or blue. Installation is easy, requiring no tools unless you’re cutting pieces to fit.

While a few customer reviews expressed concerns about the potential for water getting trapped under the channeled tiles, the majority of reviewers gave this garage flooring idea a 5-star review. MotorDeck also stands behind its tiles, offering a 12-year warranty.

Pros

• High-quality polypropylene resists staining
• Non-slip design
• Available in five colors
• Wallet-friendly pricing

Cons

• Some reviews revealed concerns of water becoming trapped under tiles

Shop Now

Best Color Selection Garage Floor Tile

Big Floors GarageTrac Diamond Flooring Tile

Durability and appearance are two excellent reasons to protect your garage floor with tiles. Big Floors GarageTrac Diamond garage floor tiles address both with a single product. Available in 12-, 24- or 48-pack boxes in 11 colors—these tiles can help you design the garage of your dreams.

These diamond flooring tiles feature interlocking, durable copolymer construction with a non-slip and oil-resistant surface. While this product isn’t the most expensive garage floor tile available, it does rank as one of the more costly. However, you can save some money by purchasing a larger quantity of boxes, which are less expensive per square foot.

Pros

• Available in 11 color options
• Easy to clean surface
• Stain resistant

Cons

• Price is higher than other tile options

$159.48 at Amazon

Best Value Garage Floor Tile

GarageDeck Coin Pattern Flooring Tile

Getting bargain pricing sometimes involves making compromises. That’s just not so with GarageDeck Coin Pattern garage floor tiles. The product features wallet-friendly pricing regardless of whether you choose the 12-, 24- or 48-pack. Its copolymer construction and coin pattern design offer a professional look that’s easy to clean and durable.

GarageDeck packages and ships this product in 4-piece, preassembled sheets. While you can disassemble the sheets if necessary, leaving them together can speed up installation. Edge finish pieces are sold separately, so plan accordingly when ordering.

Pros

• Wallet-friendly pricing in all pack sizes
• Packaged in 4-piece, preassembled sheets
• Available in 7 colors

Cons

• Edge pieces sold separately

$143.55 at Amazon

Best Splurge Garage Floor Tile

American Floor Mats Heavy Duty Rubber Flooring Tile

American Floor Mats Heavy Duty Rubber Flooring receives incredibly high consumer ratings despite its higher-than-average price for garage floor tiles. Constructed of commercial-grade, shock-resistant, recycled rubber, these garage floor tiles are excellent for use in a garage, as a workshop floor, under a home gym or covering a weight room floor.

The tiles are flexible, easy to install and can reduce strain on your feet when standing for long periods. However, the 24-inch by 24-inch size may increase waste when installing in smaller spaces where multiple cuts are necessary. The upside to this larger tile size? Fewer seams.

Pros

• Commercial-grade and shock-resistant material
• Versatile for indoor or outdoor use
• Five aesthetically-pleasing color options
• Fast and easy installation

Cons

• More expensive than other tile types
• Larger sized tiles may increase waste (though provides less seams)

$111.10 at Amazon

Best Mix and Match Garage Floor Tile

IncStores Nitro Snap-Together Flooring Tile

IncStores Nitro Snap-Together Flooring Tile makes deciding on a floor pattern easy or difficult— depending on your perspective—as they feature the most comprehensive product selection in our review. It’s available in three styles, including vented, coin and diamond plate, along with eight color choices. You can even mix and match colors and designs to create your ideal floor.

The company also sells a pre-packaged, 5-foot-by-10-foot motorcycle pad in several colors and styles. While some customers expressed concerns about the potential for water and debris to become trapped under the tiles, IncStores backs up its product with a limited lifetime warranty.

Pros

• Huge product selection
• Also available in motorcycle pad kits
• Limited lifetime warranty

Cons

• Some reviews revealed concerns about debris getting stuck underneath

$129.99 at Amazon

Most Versatile Garage Floor Tile

Husky PVC Flooring Tile

Whether you need flooring tiles in your garage or just anywhere you’ll be spending time on your feet, Husky PVC Flooring Tile has you covered. Due to their anti-fatigue features, these tiles work as well in the garage as they do in an exercise room or workshop.

Installation may require a few hand tools to secure the connections between tiles, but getting the floor in place is still quite simple. The 18-inch-by-18-inch size is just right for speedy installations without excessive waste, and Husky backs them up with a limited lifetime warranty.

Pros

• Designed for multi-purpose use
• Limited lifetime warranty
• Convenient size for installation

Cons

• Installation is slightly more complex than other designs

Shop Now

What to Look for When Buying Garage Floor Tile

Maintaining your garage floor is essential for making it last as long as possible under the conditions it must face. While some garage floors can be made to last with just concrete sealer, others—under more stressful conditions—need something more, such as garage floor tiles.

However, choosing the right one from the multitude of products that claim to be the best can be daunting. Keep the following deciding factors in mind when shopping for and choosing the best garage floor tiles for your needs.

• Garage Use: How you use your garage is an important distinction when choosing a garage floor tile. If you use your garage to work on cars or motorcycles, or if there’s a potential for oil, grease or chemicals landing on the floor, choose a garage tile that resists staining or is easy to clean. On the other hand, if you work out or spend time working in your garage, consider a softer garage floor tile that can reduce fatigue.
• Climate: The climate in your area can affect your choice of garage floor tiles. If you live in a frigid climate that requires road salt or ice melt to keep the streets clear, those chemicals will end up on your garage floor. Consider a vented garage floor tile configuration to easily flush the grime away in the spring, or choose an easy-to-clean tile option.
• Maintenance: While no garage floor tile is 100% maintenance-free to keep it looking its best, some are easier to clean than others. Other types perform better at the cost of higher maintenance. Vented garage floor tile is easy to spray off with a hose. However, debris can get caught in the holes. Solid tiles can get water trapped underneath them but look good with a simple mopping. Choose your desired level of maintenance and balance it against your budget and amount of floor protection.
• Installation: If easy or fast installation is important to you, choose a tool-free-installation garage floor tile. However, if you go wall-to-wall with your new floor, you’ll likely need a tape measure and saw to cut pieces to fit, regardless of the type of floor tile.
• Cost: Protecting your garage floor is essential to avoid large floor repair bills later. However, protecting your budget is also crucial for everything else that isn’t a garage floor. There are as many price ranges surrounding garage floor tile as there are tile options. Balance the cost of your new floor against the amount of protection it can provide within a reasonable price.

How We Found the Best Garage Floor Tiles

After considering as many garage activities as we could imagine or find, we focused on garage floor tile brands, styles and types that already receive high marks from customers who’ve used their products. Our author’s 30 plus years of professional home improvement and repair experience was utilized as we compared the best available products to the possible conditions that garage floors encounter. From there, we whittled down the long list of contenders to compile the best of the best garage floor tiles.

FAQ

What is the best tile for garage floor?

There are several types of garage floor tiles available. Plastic, rubber, high-density foam and vinyl are excellent garage flooring options. The best tile for your garage floor depends on the conditions your floor contends with daily. Our choice for the best overall garage floor tile is MotorDeck’s Diamond Modular Tile because it meets the needs of the most consumers in a wide range of conditions.

What kind of flooring is best for garage?

You can protect your garage floor in several ways. The best one will most closely meets your needs while also fitting your budget. For some garages, that could mean using a garage floor paint option, while others may choose the extra protection of a tile flooring solution.

What is the most durable flooring for garage?

Traditionally, the most durable garage flooring option is a two-part epoxy. Epoxy completely seals the concrete and provides a protective barrier that lasts for a long time. However, epoxy floors can be costly, and proper installation is crucial for the best results.

Is it a good idea to tile a garage floor?

Installing garage flooring tile is a good idea to protect a garage floor that’s in decent shape and doesn’t require repairs. Fixing a pitted garage floor and sealing any cracks should be done before installing garage floor tile to reduce water pooling under the tiles or reaching deep into cracks where it can cause further damage.

The post The 6 Best Garage Floor Tile Options in 2024 appeared first on Family Handyman.

via merchant

By combining a densifier and waterproofer in one product, Ghostshield Lithi-Tek Concrete Sealer penetrates and hardens while providing a surface barrier against moisture, making it our best basement sealer overall. The lithium (hence the “Lithi”) silicate has a smaller particle size than alternatives like sodium or potassium silicate, allowing it to penetrate deeper into the concrete.

This basement sealer might seem expensive compared to other gallon-sized products, but since it’s a concentrate, it actually covers up to 1,000 square feet when mixed with four gallons of water. It’s also mildew-resistant and cleans easily with just soap and water, which helps eliminate basement odors and smells.

via merchant

Best Budget

Drylock Extreme Waterproofer

Shop on Lowe's

If you’re looking for basement waterproofing paint at a low price, this mildew-resistant product is a prime choice. One gallon treats up to 100 square feet per coat, and easily applies with a roller, paint sprayer or brush.

Its solid white color is simple to tint as well, making it convenient for those who want a specific basement paint color. This product isn’t intended for floors though, so you’ll need to purchase a separate basement floor sealer if you want total coverage.

via merchant

Best Densifier

Foundation Armor Transparent Concrete Sealer

Shop on Lowe's

Add this Foundation Armor densifier to your cart if you’re looking to increase the strength, density and hardness of your basement floor. This silicate sealer reacts with the existing concrete to pack empty pores and spaces with calcium silicate hydrate, increasing its overall density. This also makes it appropriate for use as a basement wall sealer.

Foundation Armor mixes with water to provide four gallons of product, and since it works below the surface, it won’t affect the color or shade of your concrete. This basement sealer is ideal for anyone looking to mitigate concrete dust in their basement, or use it in combination with a separate waterproof sealer for maximum moisture protection.

via merchant

Best Long-Lasting Sealer

Foundation Armor Penetrating Sealer

$224.99 at Amazon

The 10-year lifespan of this Foundation Armor sealer and its hydrophobic barrier provide valuable peace of mind for anyone concerned about moisture issues, making it one of the best basement waterproofers you can buy. This silane/siloxane basement sealer requires no mixing and can be used right out of the bottle, whether you’re using a paint roller or sprayer.

When paired with a dedicated densifier, this product will have all your bases covered when it comes to comprehensive water and moisture management for a finished basement.

via merchant

Best for Under Flooring

Ghostshield Vapor-Tek Concrete Sealer

Shop on Lowe's

Basement flooring is especially vulnerable to moisture damage, and the comprehensive protection of the Ghostshield Vapor-Tek Concrete Sealer ensures that you won’t be dealing with unnecessary headaches down the road.

This two-part epoxy bonds to create an extremely effective moisture barrier, and although its application might sound intimidating, you simply mix the two cans together and apply it with a paint roller. This extra-strong barrier also makes Vapor-Tek well-suited for basements that are at high risk for moisture issues.

Keep in mind that you may need to use this product with a separate vapor barrier before installing flooring, so check with your flooring product guide to make sure you’re doing everything correctly.

What to Consider When Buying a Basement Sealer

When choosing the best basement sealer, consider the age of your concrete. Newer concrete may be dense enough to not require a densifier. A waterproof sealer may be enough to deal with potential moisture issues, especially if you live in a climate that doesn’t produce a lot of precipitation. Older concrete will likely require a densifier application first, followed by a waterproof sealer to complete the job.

You should also take existing moisture problems into consideration. If you already have issues, sealers won’t be able to solve your problems on their own. You’ll need to explore other solutions as well, like using a dehumidifier or installing a drainage system to handle the problem from the outside-in.

Types of Basement Sealers

There are two basic types of basement sealers: densifiers and waterproofers. Densifiers penetrate concrete and cause a chemical reaction that fills the tiny air capillaries and microscopic cracks that allow water to flow through.

Waterproofers are applied to the surface of concrete, forming a watertight seal on top of the floor. While densifiers do provide some sealing properties, they need to be combined with a waterproofer to be totally effective.

How We Chose the Best Basement Sealer

Keeping moisture out of your basement is extremely important and sealing it correctly to fix any issues you’re facing starts with a quality product. We looked for products that have been highly rated and proven to work to ensure that we’re only recommending the buys that are worth your time and money. We looked through many different basement sealers to find the best on the market, taking advice from industry insiders and subject matter experts on what makes a product a smart value (or worthy of a splurge). Finally, we did the work of combing through user reviews to see how real people interact with the product, and if it stands up to the test.

FAQs

Why should I seal my basement floor?

Sealing floors helps reduce water and moisture from gaining entry into your basement, which can not only create an environment that encourages mold and mildew growth, but permanently damage any flooring. Even if you don’t have any immediate moisture or leak issues, sealing your floor can be a valuable preventative measure. It also makes floors easier to clean, and depending on the type of sealer, more resistant to abrasion.

Should I seal my basement floor before finishing?

Yes, you should seal your floor as soon as it’s ready for treatment. Sealing your floor before finishing allows you to apply flooring without fear of future moisture damage, and it protect other basement furniture or construction elements from unnecessary moisture. It also reduces annoying and harmful concrete dust.

The post The 5 Best Basement Sealers to Waterproof Your Space appeared first on Family Handyman.

The Benefits of Infloor Heat

Once you shed your fuzzy slippers and discover the comfort of warm floors, you’ll be sold. Heated floors, often called radiant floors or a radiant heat system, offer benefits beyond foot comfort. They keep entry and bathroom floors dry and provide space heating in cold rooms. You can even turn down the thermostat for your central heating system and still keep some rooms warmer.

In this article, we’ll walk you through the types of radiant floor systems you can install in your home. We’ll tell you the pros and cons, and show you key installation techniques. This will help you decide whether to take on the project yourself or hire a professional. These heating systems are most often installed under ceramic tile in bathrooms, but keep in mind that you can add heat under any type of flooring material. All floor heating systems warm the floor with either electricity or hot water.

Electric Systems are Simple and Affordable

Electric floor systems work just like an electric blanket: Electricity runs through “resistance” cable and creates heat. Because electricity is fairly expensive, relatively few homes are entirely heated by in-floor electric systems. However, these systems are great for making especially cold floors foot-friendly. They also boost the temperature in an otherwise chilly room by a few degrees. The warm floor in a bathroom makes getting out of the shower a cozier prospect on a cold day. That’s the payoff.

Electric systems have three components: heat cable, a thermostat and a temperature sensor. The thermostat is connected to the home’s power supply and turns the heat on and off according to the floor’s (not the room’s) temperature. A sensor installed in the floor along with the cable tells the thermostat how warm the floor is. (Most people prefer a floor temperature of 80 to 90 degrees F.) The thermostat and sensor are packaged together; cable is usually sold separately. Don’t use a thermostat from one manufacturer with cable from another.

The electrical connections require only basic wiring know-how, and laying the floor cable is a DIY-friendly project. Because of this easy installation—and the lower cost of materials—an electric system is usually the best choice for small-scale projects like heating a kitchen floor or warming up a cold bathroom. Adding electric heat to a typical bathroom when you install a new floor adds only $200 to $300 to the cost of the project. Operating costs are typically about a half cent per square foot per day.

Often the biggest challenge is “fishing” electrical cable through finished walls to the thermostat and cable. Since these systems generally draw only 10 to 15 watts per sq. ft., you can usually connect them to an existing circuit to heat a typical bathroom. For a larger room, you may have to run a new cable to the main panel and pay an electrician about $120 to connect the new circuit there.

If you’re installing heat over a wood-framed floor, place fiberglass insulation between the joists to drive the heat upward. The system will work fine without insulation but will be more efficient with it. Before you install an electric system over a concrete floor, check the manufacturer’s instructions— they may require a layer of foam insulation over the concrete before the heat cable is installed.

Tip: When you estimate the square footage of a room, include only the areas where you can walk; it makes no sense to heat the floor under appliances or behind the toilet.

Electric system #1: Loose cables

The cable comes on a spool, just like any other wire. Loose cable is by far the cheapest way to heat a floor and it’s just as effective as the other systems. The drawback of loose cable is installation time; you have to position the cable in a serpentine pattern, fasten it with lots of hot glue or staples, and then “embed” it.

Most loose cable systems include end channels that guide spacing. You can place cables close together to make the floor heat up faster and reach a higher temperature or farther apart to use less cable. Manufacturers offer various cable lengths to suit the floor’s square footage. You can’t splice sections of cable together to serve a larger room or repair damaged cable (this is true of all electric systems). Fasten the cable every 6 in. so it can’t shift or float while you embed the cable.

Caution: Work carefully with your trowel. If you nick the cable, the entire system won’t work.

There are two ways to embed cable: You can install the cable over tile backer board and then cover it with “thin-set,” the mortar adhesive used for ceramic tile. The thin-set shrinks as it cures, so you may have to add a second layer after the first hardens to level it out. But creating a perfectly flat, smooth surface with thin-set is difficult. You can make it smooth enough for ceramic tile or a floating floor but probably not smooth enough for vinyl flooring. For a faster, smoother surface, install the cable without backer board and pour on “self-leveling compound,” or SLC. SLC is a cement-based powder that you mix with water and then pour over the cable. It becomes rock hard in a few hours. Reinforce the SLC with plastic lath; metal lath can cut the cable. Covering your floor with a 1/2-in.-thick layer of SLC costs about $2 per sq. ft., including the lath. You can then lay tile, carpet, vinyl or a floating floor directly over the SLC.

Electric System #2: Mesh Mats

The cable comes already woven into a plastic net. The pre-positioned cable installs quickly—in less than half the time for loose cable. You simply staple or hot glue the mesh to the floor. As with loose cable, you then embed the cable and mesh.

Mats are available in lots of different dimensions. You can cut the mesh into sections to cover your floor or fit around corners. But you can’t cut or splice the cable itself. Some manufacturers recommend combing thin-set directly over the mesh and setting tile all in one operation. But this is difficult. Most tile setters prefer to embed the mesh first with thin-set or SLC just as with loose wire. The mesh tends to “float” as you embed it, so fasten it to the floor every 6 in.— even if the instructions recommend less fastening. After embedding it, you can lay tile, carpet, vinyl or a floating floor.

Electric system #3: Solid mats

Solid mats are often the most expensive electric system, but they’re also the easiest to install. The cable is completely enclosed in synthetic fabric, plastic sheeting or metal foil. The big advantage is that you don’t have to embed it as you do loose cable or mesh mats. With some versions, you simply smooth the mat onto a bed of thin-set. Then you spread more thin-set over the mat and set ceramic or stone tile as you normally would. Some solid mat systems are even easier to install; you just roll out the mats, tape them together and you’re done. You can then lay a floating wood or laminate floor directly over it.

Mats are available in various dimensions, and you can combine mats of different sizes to cover your floor. Some mats are sized to fit between joists, so you can heat the floor from below — a big advantage if you don’t want to replace an existing floor. However, don’t install electric heat under a subfloor unless the system is specifically intended for that method.

Floor Coverings and Heated Floors

Any flooring material can cover a heated floor, but some work better than others.

• Ceramic and stone tile are the most common. Heat doesn’t harm them and they hold and conduct heat best.
• Solid wood floors can develop gaps if they dry and shrink when heated. If you opt for solid wood, leave the installation to an experienced pro who will test the moisture content of the wood to avoid shrinkage.
• Floating floors made from wood or plastic laminate don’t develop gaps because they’re not fastened directly to the subfloor. But you’ll have to limit the floor temperature. Flooring warranties often limit the temperature to 85 degrees F.
• Vinyl floors have similar temperature restrictions, whether they’re sheet vinyl or tile.
• Carpets or rugs can go over a heated floor, but they act as insulators and reduce heat flow to your feet and to the room as a whole. If you choose electric heat under hard flooring and plan to use an area rug, consider installing the cables only under the flooring that won’t be covered by the rug.

Hydronic systems heat space as well as your toes

Hydronic radiant floor heating installation:

In a hydronic system, heated water from a boiler or a water heater runs through loops of flexible plastic tubing called “PEX.” (PEX can be used for household water supply lines too.) The hot tubes then heat the floor. The main advantage of hydronic systems is that they generally deliver more heat at a lower operating cost than electric systems. That’s why hydronic heat is usually a better option than electric systems to heat large floor areas or even an entire house. However, because they usually involve a boiler, a pump and gas lines, hydronic systems are more complex than electric systems. You can install hydronic floor heat yourself, but you need basic electrical and plumbing know-how as well as professional design help.

Hydronic radiant floor heating installation cost:

The materials for a small-scale hydronic project will cost at least $600.

The easiest—and least expensive—way to install PEX is to run it under a subfloor between joists using transfer plates and insulation. This method costs less than $2 per sq. ft. for tubing, plates and insulation. To install PEX on top of a wood-framed or concrete floor, you need to lay a grooved channel system over the floor or embed the tubing in self-leveling compound. Covering PEX requires more SLC than you can mix yourself; leave that to pros who have special mixing and pumping equipment (at least $2 per sq. ft. for the SLC only). With a concrete floor, you may have to lay foam insulation over the slab before installing PEX. In new construction, the tubing is often installed over insulation and the concrete slab is poured over it.

A hydronic system requires several expensive components. But several rooms share the components, so the more area you heat, the lower the cost per square foot. If you want to heat 200 sq. ft. or more of floor, a hydronic system may cost less to install than electric heat.

The heat source for a hydronic system can be a boiler or a standard water heater. If your home is already heated by hot water radiators or baseboard units, there’s a good chance that your existing boiler can handle the hydronic system as well. If you don’t have a boiler, a water heater can heat one room or several, depending on the size of the water heater. If you’re building an addition, you may find that installing a water heater–powered hydronic floor is less expensive than extending your existing central heating system.

Aside from PEX, a heat source and a pump, a hydronic system may require components such as electric zone valves. It may also require additional pumps. You can install these components yourself, but don’t try to design a system yourself. Look for a company that specializes in helping homeowners plan and install hydronic systems. Before you choose to install a system yourself, get bids from professionals. It will help you decide whether the money saved is worth your time and effort.

Understanding Common Alternative Heaters

Learn about popular alternative heating options, from cost savings to eco-friendly solutions and everything in between.

• Best Solar Furnace, Electric, PV Panels Greenhouse Heaters and How to Buy One
• A How-To Guide on Electric Heater Installation
• What to Know About Electric Baseboard Heaters
• What Is Forced Air Heating?

The post Electric vs. Hydronic Radiant Floor Heating Systems appeared first on Family Handyman.

Today you can buy waterproof or water-resistant products, changing the game for basement installations. “Waterproof” and “water-resistant” are different designations, and a waterproof product is definitely better for the basement.

Water-resistant laminates feature a vulnerable fiberboard core encapsulated in a waterproof casing, but any damage to the casing wrecks the waterproofing. A waterproof product either has a more durable casing or a mostly plastic core that’s incapable of absorbing moisture.

The line between waterproof laminate flooring and a similar product — rigid luxury vinyl planks — is blurred, with the most important difference being the quality of the wood-grain pattern. Here, find out all about basement wood flooring.

One of the main attractions of laminate flooring is its resemblance to real wood, so manufacturers put extra effort into creating realistic and attractive patterns. Laminate planks also come with a harder surface that feels more like wood. So if you prefer the look of wood, laminate is better than real wood or luxury vinyl planks.

What Is Laminate Flooring?

Laminate flooring consists of four layers bonded together to produce planks that are generally 3/8- to 1/2-in. thick, 3- to 5-in. wide and 36- to 72-in. long. From the top down, there’s a wear layer, a design layer, the core and the backing. The wear and design layers are the ones you see, but the core and backing do most of the hard work.

Although some laminate products come with padded backing, most have melamine plastic hard backing for structural stability and moisture resistance.

The fiberboard core, which forms the bulk of the plank, is engineered with a tongue and groove that allow installers to simply snap planks together. This ease of assembly is one of the most identifiable features of laminate, and one of the main reasons for its popularity. Almost anyone can install a laminate floor.

Budget laminates are unsuitable for a basement because their fiberboard core is absorbent and basically unprotected. You need a moisture-resistant or waterproof product for the basement. Even if you find one you like, a flooring retailer might try to talk you out of installing any type of laminate in a basement with moisture issues.

Benefits of Laminate Flooring in a Basement

Laminate products suitable for below-grade installation (check the label) can more than hold their own in a relatively dry basement. Some of the benefits they offer include:

• Easy to install: You can cut laminate planks with any power saw suitable for wood, and the planks snap together like puzzle pieces.
• Easy to maintain: The super-hard, smooth surface of a laminate floor needs little cleaning other than occasional sweeping or vacuuming. You can replace a damaged plank by disassembling the floorboards or cutting it out and installing a new one.
• Long-lasting: Laminate flooring generally lasts twice as long as its warranty period, which is usually around 10 years. Longevity may be reduced in persistently damp conditions, however.
• Attractive: No matter which wood species or color you prefer, you can find a laminate product that mimics it.

Drawbacks of Laminate Flooring in the Basement

Even products for below-grade installation will fail in a consistently damp environment, so you should look for other options if you have water problems. Some other drawbacks include:

• Limited return on investment: Laminate flooring, unlike real wood or ceramic tile, has little to no effect on a home’s resale value.
• Uncomfortable: Laminate flooring is hard and cold. The super-smooth surface can be difficult for pets to navigate.
• Subfloor needs to be flat: If you’ve got ridges or depressions in your basement floor, laminate planks — which are rigid and thin — can separate or crack. You also need to apply a waterproof coating and install underlayment beneath the laminate flooring.
• Can’t be refinished: You can restore the finish on a dull laminate floor, but you can’t sand it. When the floor becomes too dull to restore, it must be replaced.

How To Choose Laminate Flooring for the Basement

• Read the label carefully before purchasing to ensure the warranty covers below-grade installation. If you choose one that doesn’t, you have no recourse if problems develop.
• Stay away from $1-per-square-foot bargain products. Laminate flooring that will last in the basement costs $2.50 per square foot on average.
• Choose the color and pattern according to your preferences. In a dark basement, keep in mind that a light color will help offset the gloom.
• Given that you’ll probably be installing it on a concrete slab, you’re better off with flooring with robust backing. It costs more, but the extra bulk makes the floor more comfortable for walking and provides extra thermal insulation and moisture resistance.

If you want to keep your basement dry, find out the cost of waterproofing your basement.

Installing Laminate Flooring in the Basement

• Any flooring installation begins with prepping the subfloor. It must be flat so defects caused by spalling or cracks need to be corrected. In some cases, you may need to use a floor leveling compound. New concrete and leveling compound needs to off-gas for at least 30 days, and after that you should apply a waterproofing coating. For maximum protection, follow up by installing a moisture-proof underlayment.
• Install the flooring just as you would anywhere else in your home, by snapping planks together and cutting them to fit as needed with a circular saw or table saw. Use a jigsaw to cut curves for fitting around obstructions like plumbing pipes.
• Be sure to maintain a 1/4-in. expansion gap around the perimeter of the floor, and install baseboard to hide the gap and hold the floor down. If the walls are concrete, you may need to glue the baseboard rather than nail it. If so, glue it to the wall and not the floor.
• Keep a few spare planks for replacements.

The post Using Laminate Flooring for the Basement: What to Know appeared first on Family Handyman.

Replacement probably wouldn’t have been necessary had I chosen rigid core flooring, and I wouldn’t have worked so hard to install it. The floor would have look great and been more comfortable to walk on, too.

Rigid core flooring is synthetic, but it comes in a huge number of patterns. I probably could have found one that resembled the narrow-slat oak I actually chose.

Working at the time as a professional hardwood flooring installer and refinisher, I favored real hardwood. That was then and this is now. Today I wouldn’t hesitate choosing rigid core flooring for my kitchen because it’s waterproof and luxurious, which is probably why they also call it luxury vinyl flooring.

You do have to get past its plastic-like appearance, but manufacturers are making it easier by improving the finish.

What Is Rigid Core Flooring?

Rigid core flooring is a type of vinyl plank flooring constructed in four or five layers, depending on the product. Most luxury vinyl plank (LVP) flooring sold these days is rigid core flooring. Because the core is an engineered composite, it’s also known as engineered vinyl plank (EVP) flooring.

The top wear layer (the one you walk on) features a scratch-resistant coating. A water-resistant topcoat beneath that protects the vinyl design layer underneath, which can mimic stone, ceramic tile or wood. The next layer is a rigid composite core of crushed limestone or wood fibers combined with plastic resin. Most products have a water-resistant cork underlayment as a final layer that provides extra cushion and insulation.

Pros and Cons of Rigid Core Flooring

Rigid core flooring is 100 percent waterproof and would have easily stood up to the water leak in my kitchen. It’s a great choice for below-grade installations like basements, where other types of flooring would warp or separate from the subfloor. Like most products, it comes with number of advantages and some drawbacks.

Pros

• Design flexibility: It comes in lots of patterns, including imitation stone and hardwood. The color range is equally varied.
• Sound and thermal insulation: Products with a cork underlayment act like carpeting, attenuating the noise of footsteps and preventing heat loss through the floor.
• Long warranty periods: These generally last 20 to 25 years.
• Easy to install: Homeowners can save money by installing it themselves.
• Can be installed almost anywhere: Rigid core flooring holds up well in moist, high-traffic areas like laundry rooms, entryways and basements. Some brands can even work outdoors.

Cons

• Can be uncomfortable: Brands that lack the cork underlayment layer can be as rigid as hardwood.
• Not as long-lasting as some other materials: Though warranties run for up to 25 years, it won’t outlast hardwood or ceramic tile.
• Somewhat fragile: The surface coating is scratch-resistant, not scratch-proof. Heavy foot traffic, pet nails and spills all take their toll and can make the floor look worn.
• Color fades: Vinyl flooring must be protected from direct sunlight to prevent the color from fading and washing out.

How Much Does Rigid Core Flooring Cost?

It ranges from $1.70 to $8 per square foot (psf), depending on brand, with a national average of about $4 psf. That’s less than engineered hardwood flooring ($3 to $10 psf) and stone tile ($5 to $10 psf), but more expensive than laminate, ceramic tile or carpet.

The real savings come when you forgo professional installation, which costs from $4 to $7.50 psf, and do the job yourself. This is more feasible with rigid core flooring than most other types of flooring except perhaps laminate.

Of note: Today, rigid core flooring is virtually synonymous with LVP or luxury vinyl tile (LVT) flooring, because the rigid core replaces the flexible core in older versions.

How To Install Rigid Core Flooring

If you’ve ever installed laminate flooring, you know all there is to know about installing rigid core flooring. The planks have snap-together tongues and grooves. Because the floor isn’t attached to the subfloor, you can assemble the planks like a jigsaw puzzle.

To cut a plank, simply score it with a knife and break it across a straight edge. You might need a power saw to cut a notch or fit the flooring around a curve.

Rigid core flooring with a backing needs no underlayment, but you may want to install one anyway for extra insulation and cushioning. It’s also important to lay it on a flat surface. Installing it on a concrete subfloor may require some leveling first. This type of floating floor needs baseboards to hold it down, so factor that into your DIY installation plan.

The post What Is Rigid Core Flooring and Should You Get It? appeared first on Family Handyman.

I’m a former residential carpenter with vinyl plank flooring installation and repair experience. I collaborated with Nick Yahoodain, CEO of Advanced Builders and Contractors, to create this guide to fixing vinyl plank flooring.

If you’re comfortable with DIY home improvement projects and you kept a few extra planks, you can fix vinyl plank flooring. Yahoodain recommends reading the back of the flooring box if you have it or checking the manufacturer’s site to make sure you’re not voiding any warranties.

End Plank Separation

Multiple factors can cause planks to separate. Humidity levels or physical shifting due to high foot traffic can cause unsightly gaps between the ends of planks. This is more typically an issue with click-lock floors than with adhesive installations. Fortunately, this also is one of the easiest problems to fix.

• Vacuum the gap to remove any dust or debris. This creates a tight seam between the two planks.
• Attach a suction cup to the board you intend to scoot toward the other.
• Tap the suction cup with the rubber mallet, scooting the board into the other and closing the gap.
• Continue this method to eliminate the resulting gap at the other end. The last gap should be hidden behind your baseboard.

Side Plank Separation

Humidity and temperature changes can cause planks to contract, creating gaps along the sides. Improper installation can also be the culprit. Either way, these unsightly spaces can be easily fixed with a tube of putty.

• Purchase a putty specifically for vinyl flooring use; some putties and caulks aren’t rated to withstand foot traffic. If possible, select a color that closely matches that of your floor.
• Vacuum and thoroughly clean the gap. Let it dry overnight.
• Position the nozzle of the putty tube in the gap, squeeze, then run it along the length of the gap.
• Run a plastic putty knife along the gap to remove any excess. Wipe up any remaining putty on the plank with a damp sponge.
• Allow the putty to dry and set according to the instructions.

Pop-Ups

Planks sometimes pop up and out of place. These unsightly exposed edges can catch on your shoes or socks, causing you to trip. If failed glue causes the pop-up, follow the steps below. It’s a moisture issue warping the subfloor below, contact a flooring or plumbing pro to properly diagnose the cause.

• Carefully peel up and remove the popped-up plank with a scraper tool. You can re-use this plank if it’s in good shape. If not, go with a new plank.
• Scrape off the dried adhesive on the subfloor below and vacuum up any debris.
• Apply a VPF adhesive to the subfloor, closely following the application instructions.
• Place the plank on top of the adhesive and, with a roller, press it down tight. Place a dumbbell or other heavy object on the board while the adhesive dries.

Scratches

Minor scratches on LVP flooring are often hard to see unless you look really closely. Deep scratches appear as white lines that can be an eyesore, especially on dark-colored planks. Eliminating these white lines is simple and DIY-friendly.

Scratches are often caused by chairs scraping across the floor, so make sure you always use felt floor protectors under your chair feet.

• Thoroughly clean the plank with soap and water to remove any dirt or grease from the scratch.
• Use a furniture repair marker or a repair pen to color in the white lines. These markers and pens are available in many popular LVP flooring colors.
• If your scratches are really noticeable and contained to one or two planks, replace the plank with a new one if you’re comfortable doing it.

Gouges/Dents

Gouges and dents that penetrate several layers of the plank are notoriously difficult to repair. Because most vinyl plank flooring has a wood grain pattern, it can be difficult to make an invisible patch.

If you have extra planks, it’s probably easier to replace the plank than to patch the gouge. But if the gouge or dent is not too deep, or you don’t have spare planks, try filler putty.

• Purchase a color-matched filler putty formulated for use with vinyl plank flooring.
• Wash the dented or gouged plank to create a clean and smooth work surface. Allow it to dry completely.
• Fill the damaged area with the putty, removing any excess with a plastic putty knife.
• Follow any specific drying and sanding instructions for the putty you used.

Cupping

Cupping occurs when the edges of the planks rise up, creating a concave “cup” shape.

Before attempting to repair cupped flooring, it’s important to find out exactly what’s causing it. If it’s high humidity or temperature fluctuations, the planks can potentially return to their original shape by running a humidifier or installing curtains to prevent direct sunlight exposure.

But if the issue is moisture damage underneath the flooring, you’ll likely need to replace the cupped planks. Contact a flooring installer or plumber to diagnose the cause.

The post How To Fix Vinyl Plank Flooring appeared first on Family Handyman.

I interviewed two professional house cleaning experts — Alessandro Gazzo of Emily’s Maids in Dallas, and Alex Varela, general manager of Dallas Maids of Frisco in Frisco, Texas — to learn the best ways to clean LVP floors.

What is Luxury Vinyl Plank Flooring?

Luxury vinyl plank flooring is made of compressed layers of vinyl, typically with wood grain texture that simulates the look of natural hardwood flooring. The multiple layers make LVP more durable and comfortable to walk on than standard vinyl flooring manufactured in large, flexible sheets.

Also, unlike laminate flooring with a wood particle core more susceptible to water damage, the vinyl core of LVP won’t be effected by moisture.

How Is Cleaning LVP Flooring Different From Cleaning Other Flooring?

Cleaning LVP is similar to cleaning other plank flooring options like natural hardwood, engineered hardwood and laminate flooring with seams between the planks. The seams allow standing water to seep through and possibly damage the subfloor below, so it’s essential to use the smallest amount of liquid when mopping.

Also, unlike hard flooring options like stone or tile, LVP and other plank flooring must be vacuumed or swept frequently to prevent dirt and grime from scratching the surface. Because LVP cannot be sanded or refinished like natural hardwood flooring, these scratches are permanent.

Products Needed To Clean Luxury Vinyl Plank Flooring

According to both experts, you’ll keep your LVP floors looking good and free of dirt and grime with a few basic cleaning items.

• Broom and dustpan: A standard bristle broom is sufficient to sweep and capture loose dirt and debris. This O-Cedar model features an angled head that’s perfect for reaching into corners, and a cleaning comb to pull out dust bunnies and hair.
• Microfiber mop: Gazzo says string mops can apply too much water and recommends microfiber models only. We’ve had great success with this O-Cedar mop. Its bucket wringer lets you regulate the amount of water applied.
• White or apple cider vinegar: Standard strength vinegar provides the acidity needed to remove dirt and grime without leaving a soapy residue behind. Varela recommends apple cider vinegar because it provides the same cleaning properties as white vinegar, plus “a little extra fragrance.”
• pH-neutral floor cleaner: Standard cleaners like dish soap can leave streaks. Varela recommends a pH-neutral option. This Bona floor cleaner is pH neutral and doesn’t contain ammonia that can damage vinyl flooring.

How To Clean Luxury Vinyl Plank Flooring

According to Varela, LVP flooring is easy to clean. Sweeping and mopping regularly is enough to make your LVP floors last for many years.

1. Sweep with a broom to remove loose sand or dirt. This prevents debris from scratching your floors over time and preps the surface for mopping. You can use a vacuum, but make sure it has a “bare floor” setting that won’t scratch or scuff the surface.
2. Create a cleaning solution. Varela recommends combining a 1/2-cup each of apple cider vinegar and a pH-neutral floor cleaner in a gallon of warm water.
3. Use a microfiber mop with the cleaning solution, and be sure to use only enough liquid to clean the floors without leaving excess behind. Varela adds leaving your windows open can speed up drying. Stand in the furthest corner of the room and work your way forward. Then move slightly to the side and backwards, overlapping the previous path by half. Repeat this over the length of the floor, “This way you will cover the entire surface twice, more than enough to clean your floors properly,” Varela says.

How Often To Clean Luxury Vinyl Plank Flooring

Your cleaning frequency will of course depend on how much foot traffic, cooking, playing, etc. go on in your home, along with whether or not you have pets. But sweeping LVP flooring often is a must.

Mannington, a popular LVP manufacturer, recommends at least once per week, while Gazzo says “every other day is fine.” According to Gazzo, LVP should also be mopped once a week if you have pets or kids, and at least twice a month if you don’t.

The post How To Clean Luxury Vinyl Plank (LVP) Flooring appeared first on Family Handyman.

I know from my background in trim carpentry and cabinetmaking the trials of dragging around an air compressor and nail gun from outlet to outlet nailing up moldings, casings, and trim. When I saw that Metabo was set to release a 36-volt cordless air compressor, I was eager to see it’s stamina and power.

What Is the Metabo Cordless Air Compressor?

The Metabo HPT 36v MultiVolt 2-Gallon Cordless Air Compressor is a 36-volt, battery-operated air compressor that outputs a max 135 PSI (pounds per square inch) and 1.6 CFM (cubic feet per minute) at 90 PSI. The green and black, milk crate sized compressor can either be powered by a single 36-volt battery or a work all-day AC adapter, when wall power is available (both sold separately). The Metabo 36v Cordless Air Compressor is designed with a sturdy metal roll cage for added durability and equipped with a strong, oil-free, brushless motor that’s nearly maintenance free. It features a quarter-inch brass industrial coupler, and weighing less than 30 pounds, with the battery, it’s lightweight and easy to haul.

How We Tested It

With only a loose flooring transition strip to re-adhere and a few feet of baseboard to install in my newly finished hallway, there wasn’t much on the to-do list that will test the capabilities of the Metabo 36v Cordless Air Compressor.

However, I had plenty of 18-gauge and 15-gauge nails, a 25-foot air hose and plenty of scrap wood, so I started shooting some nails to put it through the ringer. Metabo boasts that it can shoot 1,000, 18-gauge nails on a single charge. I wanted to test that claim, as well as seeing how it functions when shooting larger 15-gauge nails. I also wanted to see how loud this compact compressor’s brushless motor is.

Performance Review

Performance

After charging up the 4-amp hour battery and setting the PSI to 90, I pulled out my 15-gauge nailer and a box of two-inch nails.  I laid a scrap of ¾-inch floor underlayment across a set of sawhorses. And started popping away, testing the compressor’s might.

I nailed on, shooting a nail every second or so, until the compressors motor kicked onto replenish its tank. With the 15-gague nails, this happened every 8 to 10 nails and took between 16 and 24 seconds to refill, depending on power left in the battery. I kept shooting, stopping, finally, when the battery didn’t have enough juice to fill the tank and there wasn’t enough air to set the nail heads below the plywood’s surface.  I drove 153 15-gauge nails on a single charge.  Not Bad.

Next was the 18-gague nail test. I again charged up the battery and emptied the air tank to start both tests on a level playing field. Same process as before, I shot a two-inch, 18-gauge nail once per second, roughly, pausing for the tank to refill. With the smaller nails, the tank refilled every 18 to 21 nails, and did this 21 times before the battery died.  All in all, that was 412 two-inch, 18-gauge nails before the battery was dead and the tank was too empty to set anymore.

The two tests also opened my eyes to how loud the brushless motor is. Having to listen to its blaring hum, 40-plus times, through my OSHA approved, Spotify connected, earmuffs, I was hoping for something quieter. I downloaded a decibel app on my phone. As a comparison tool, compared the reading between the Metabo and my ancient plug-in compressor. I was surprised to find nearly identical 78 and 78.1 decibel readings, respectively, which is a bummer when you consider the quiet compressor technology of today.

After all those nails, the to-do list was a walk in the park. The portability of the Metabo cordless air compressor is the real hero. Maneuvering it through rooms and up and down stairs, without having to find an outlet or run an extension cord is a welcome game-changer.

Value

I utter some form of this spiel every time I discuss a battery-operated tool. A large chunk the value of battery-operated tools is tied to the battery and charger itself. Personally, I think this is a top-notch tool, worth every penny of the $300 price tag, but I already own a Metabo battery and charger. If you have to figure in the additional costs of these items, it will cost almost $120 more. That makes it a little harder pill to swallow.

Reliability and Durability

The Metabo 36-volt cordless air compressor feels solid and well-made. The heavy-duty tank and cage will protect and keep this unit in good working order for years down the line. I’m also an advocate of Metabo brand tools overall.  Metabo, previously Hitachi, has a long track record of making quality power tools, and this cordless air compressor follows that.

Ease of Use

Modern compressors are user friendly machines, and this Metabo is no different.  It functions using a single on/off switch and a dial to adjust air pressure. It’s also nearly maintenance free, due to its oil-free, brushless motor. Just stay on top of draining the condensation from the tool’s tank so it won’t corrode over time.

Why You Should Buy This

Firing off as many nails as I did made for a respectable showing for this battery-operated compressor. It’s lightweight, durable, user-friendly, well-made and powerful. It’s Maybe not as stout as it claims, but strong enough for any trim project. I do wish the compressor was quieter, but I’d deal with a few extra decibels rather than hassle with climbing over a pile of extension cords on the job site every day.

Where to Buy

The Metabo HPT MultiVolt 2-Gallon Cordless Air Compressor is available at Amazon and Lowe’s.

299.0015% OFF$254.97 at Amazon

The post We Tried Metabo Battery Powered Cordless Air Compressor – We Approve! appeared first on Family Handyman.

If you’re interested in creating a patio from scratch or replacing your existing one, there are lots of choices to consider. I tapped my experience sourcing and setting a flagstone patio, as well as the expert insight of Paul Knapp, founder and Landscape Designer at Landscape Architectural, to assemble this list of popular options.

Poured Concrete Patio Flooring

If you’re looking for a basic, no-frills option on a budget, consider a poured concrete patio. According to Knapp, “concrete is relatively cheap, and the labor to install is reasonable, too.” The installation will run about $10 to $15 per square foot.

I personally find the flat surface convenient for rolling grills around and keeping patio furniture level. However, some might find it less visually appealing than other more creative options. It’s possible to install yourself, but unless you’re comfortable with building concrete forms, leave this to professionals.

Longevity also can be an issue. “It’s not a matter of if it will crack, but when it will crack,” Knapp says. “It’s fairly durable, but over time, with weather conditions and seasonal changes, concrete can crack.”

Pros:

• Cheaper than most options;
• Flat surface ideal for rolling grills and furniture;
• Easy to maintain.

Cons:

• Not as visually appealing as other options;
• Will crack eventually;
• Not ideal for most DIYers to install.

Stamped Concrete Patio Flooring

Stamped concrete patio flooring is poured flooring with a pattern “stamped” onto the wet concrete with a rubber form. It’s a relatively simple way to replicate the outline of pavers, bricks, stone or other geometrical patterns without sourcing, purchasing and placing separate components.

If you can pour concrete, you can stamp your own concrete flooring. But according to Knapp, “The installer must be careful to set the form on the desired area of concrete and then be able to lift it off without messing up the imprints.” Just like poured concrete flooring, stamped versions are also susceptible to cracking over time.

Pros:

• More visually attractive than poured concrete;
• Relatively low price;
• Wide variety of patterns to choose from.

Cons:

• Installation requires experience;
• Will crack over time.

Paver Patio Flooring

Paving stones, or simply pavers, can be made of concrete or clay. Traditionally 4- x 8-in. and 2.25 inches thick, they’re available in lots of colors and can be finished with a sealer to extend their lifespan.

Costs can vary. Clay tends to be more expensive than concrete but won’t fade in the sun, so it could be worth the extra investment. Proper installation with a solid base is especially important. Otherwise, you’ll end up with a lumpy, loose and uneven patio.

If you decide to install yourself, Knapp recommends a crushed gravel or recycled concrete base. To make it, first compact your soil with a hand or machine tamper. Then install two inches of gravel and compact again. Knapp says you should shoot for six inches of gravel base for a residential patio.

Pros:

• Available in lots of shapes and colors;
• Sealant extends their lifespan;
• Clay pavers will never fade in the sun.

Cons:

• Complex installation not ideal for first-timers

Natural Stone Patio Flooring

Natural stone — also called flagstone patio flooring — comes in irregular shapes and sizes, terrific for those hoping to avoid the manufactured look of concrete and pavers. Like clay pavers, natural stone won’t fade in the sunlight.

The large size of natural stone pieces, the labor-intensive quarrying process and relative scarcity of the material — it can only be sourced from certain areas of the country — make it one of the more expensive options.

Pros:

• Will never fade in sunlight;
• Attractive, natural look.

Cons:

• Expensive;
• Challenging to install correctly.

Decorative Chip Gravel Patio Flooring

Unlike solid flooring options, gravel patios feature loose stones contained within a border of plastic or metal edging. Although this option requires compacting the ground and applying a gravel base first, then topping it with the decorative gravel of your choice, installation is less intensive than pavers or natural stone.

If you do decide to install it yourself, Knapp recommends no more than one inch of decorative gravel. Otherwise, he says, you can end up with a patio that’s too loose and uncomfortable to walk on. Gravel patios also can become messy, especially if you have kids or rambunctious pets.

Pros:

• Relatively easy DIY installation;
• Affordable.

Cons:

• Can be messy;
• Not ideal for rolling wheeled grills or furniture.

The post Homeowner’s Guide To Patio Flooring appeared first on Family Handyman.

“The answer is all of it,” says Neil Stevenson, a Charleston, South Carolina-based architect and consultant for the celebrity home renovation series Rucker’s Reno. “Every penny you have is what it’s going to cost.”

Seriously, though: If you’re smart about it, renovating an old house won’t bankrupt you, although it will undoubtedly cost more than sprucing up a newer house.

In Stevenson’s experience, historic renovations run about the same as building a new higher-end house. Broadly speaking, that’s around $475 per square foot.

“It’s a moving target depending on how crazy you want to get,” says Stevenson. “How much of the historical fabric do you want to preserve? Do you want to just make it useful for now, or scrape off 20 layers of paint to find the original color and custom mix mortar that matches exactly?”

No matter the scope of your project, it will cost more than you think. From moldings to fire damage, animals and other surprises behind the walls, our experts all agree you should add a hefty contingency to your project budget.

Here are some other line items to take into consideration when restoring older and historic homes.

Specialty Permits and Historic Zoning

If the home is in an historic district, plan on extra permitting fees, plus an architect to help navigate regulations and create a restoration plan. You’ll also need to increase your budget for materials.

“If you have a slate roof, the city is going to require that you put a slate roof back,” says architectural historian Kristopher King of Carriage Properties in Charleston, S.C., a consultant on Rucker’s Reno.

“I can put an asphalt shingle roof on a house for $15,000, but that slate roof is probably going to cost me $150,000, so it’s a massive difference. But an asphalt shingle roof will last you 15 years and a slate one 150, so typically when you resell, this market appreciates that kind of work.”

Modern Building Codes, Infrastructure and Systems

Any pre-1960s home will likely have wiring, plumbing, framing and windows that aren’t up to modern safety or comfort standards, says Bryan Slowick, president of BDS Design Build Remodel in Libertyville, Ill.

Once you start digging into those, you may be required to bring the whole system up to today’s codes. Also, some really old houses lacked kitchens, bathrooms, HVAC systems or closets. If you have to add or update them, you’ll need to open and repair plaster walls for access to pipes and wires. That’s expensive.

“I know it sounds like a lot of fun, and it is,” Stevenson says facetiously.

HVAC

According to our experts, HVAC is often the biggest challenge and cost in an old house. It’s likely you’ll need to turn a matrix of old radiators and fireplaces into a ducted system more in line with today’s comfort expectations. That can be problematic.

“Some old homes don’t necessarily have a wide enough wall cavity to run traditional HVAC,” says Slowick. If that’s the case, you might have to go with a high-velocity air-conditioning system, which has smaller ducts and can cost twice as much as a traditional unit.

HVAC was a particularly sticky problem on Rucker’s Reno.  “It was truly a nightmare,” Stevenson says. “It was almost impossible what we had to do.

“The floor joists were only 11 inches deep and 3-1/2-inches wide, and there are just massive chunks of lumber, so we really had to put our thinking caps on to figure out how to run ductwork. In a large, complex house like that, it could run upwards of a half million dollars.”

Specialty Materials

Procuring original materials or fabricating new ones to match can also be costly. Old moldings, door casing and other trims often have different profiles than modern materials, and thus need to be custom milled.

“Traditional FJP (finger-jointed pine) trim might cost $2 a linear foot versus $1.50 for a newer house,” says Slowick. “For one doorway, that doesn’t add up. But if you’re talking about a whole house, you’re talking thousands of dollars.”

Other tricky materials can range from floor paint to clay-fired hearth tiles and stained-glass window repairs. On one project, Stevenson needed to replace some rotting iron gates, and the lowest price he could find was $55,000.

Windows and Doors

Door and window sizes often don’t align with modern standards. Plus, they often have outdated energy specs and poor weather resistance.

“You can rebuild windows with that historical, cool, wavy glass,” says Stevenson. “But it’s just that much more work. And you’ll need to order them from Eastern Europe, because we don’t make them here anymore.”

The good news is, if installed correctly, old-style windows can be quite energy efficient. The bad news is, while a modern vinyl window costs a few hundred dollars, the same window done historic style could be well over $1,000.

There can also be issues with non-standard size doors, or finding matching hardware. “It’s a never-ending discovery of how unique your building is when you have to pay for all of the uniqueness,” says Stevenson.

Specialty Contractors and Craftspeople

Inevitably, you’ll run into something that’s better outsourced to a skilled craftsperson. Maybe it’ll be plaster or milling or masonry. Finding skilled craftspeople experienced in older technologies can be a challenge. And, of course, those skilled people demand a higher hourly wage.

Plaster

Even if your plaster comes intact, you’ll need to cut into and repair it if you’re running new electrical, plumbing or HVAC. And plaster is more expensive than drywall.

“We’ve seen houses where the plaster was beyond salvage, but where the contractor actually put in [drywall] and then ran a skim coat of plaster mud over the top,” King says. “You get that great thud, durability and texture.”

Flooring

If you’re trying to match traditional pine wood floors, King says they’ll be more expensive to buy and install. That’s because their tongue-and-groove systems require them to be blind nailed. “Then you’ve got to sand it and finish it, instead of just buying a modern flooring system that’s already finished looking and can be laid down in a day,” he says.

Mantels

Any sort of mantel or intricate molding or cornice will likely need to be picked out and cleaned with dental picks, King says.

“What people don’t recognize is when you have a 200-year-old house, there could be anywhere from 15 to 50 coats of paint,” King says. “Removing all of that to restore the detail back is incredibly labor-intensive. There are a lot of things that require craft, and craft is what is expensive today.”

On Rucker’s Reno, Stevenson discovered he couldn’t strip the paint off the mantel, so he tracked down the plant in Scotland which originally manufactured it. Not only was the plant still open, it still had the original mold, so he could order a replica.

Historic Architects and Inspectors

All our experts emphasized that even if you plan on DIYing most of the work, it’s well worth the money to pay for consultation from an architect or contractor with historic home experience before purchasing the house. “Sometimes having someone who knows what they’re looking at on site for an hour is going to save you thousands in the long run,” says King.

A typical walkthrough runs between $200 and $500. If consultants will be more heavily involved from start to finish, the relationship could stay an hourly rate or switch to a percentage of the project budget.

Insurance

Depending on where you live, insurance hurdles for historic homes can manifest in different forms.

“In Charleston, we’re on the coast and we’re in a hurricane zone,” says King. “You can’t just go put impact-rated windows in a historic house in Charleston, so you need a local insurance carrier who can help with this.”

Another consideration is finding a policy that will cover historic replacement value. That of course will be more expensive because it covers repairs to plaster walls, wooden floors and other specialty materials. “You don’t have to do it, but it’s certainly advisable to,” says King.

“All of these things can certainly add up when it comes to restoring a historic home, but it doesn’t mean it has to take forever and cost a fortune. It’s really about making informed decisions.”

The post How Much Does It Cost To Restore an Historic Home? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Best Overall Engineered Wood Flooring

Builder’s Pride Misty Brazilian Oak

LL Flooring is a premier flooring retailer that’s been around since 1993. The company has over 400 stores in 47 states, and it offers many flooring options, including hardwood, engineered wood, waterproof vinyl, bamboo, laminate, tile, cork, carpet and more. Our favorite editor-tested flooring from the site is the Builder’s Pride Misty Brazilian Oak engineered hardwood flooring for its real wood veneer and tongue-and-groove design.

Editor Cher Checchio tested and reviewed LL Flooring’s engineered hardwood floors in her own home. She selected this floor initially because of its real wood appearance, easy installation and overall tone.  She also loved the wider planks—a noticeable difference from the thinner bamboo floors on her main floor—that offered a more dramatic look. Checchio installed the floors in her loft, knowing an engineered hardwood floor more resistant to seasonal changes would be most suitable.

“I spend considerable time in my home office and walk on my engineered hardwood floors daily,” Checchio says. “After almost a month, I can confidently say that these floors have held up to constant back-and-forth gliding from my desk chair to morning coffee spills. If you’re uncertain about durability, longevity, price or selection—don’t be. LL Flooring has something for every budget, every style, and every remodeler—be it a DIY home project or a professional installation.”

These Greenguard Gold-certified floors have a premium aluminum oxide fortified finish that makes them stain-, scuff- and scratch-resistant. The floors are 9/16 inches wide and 7.5 inches thick with a 3-mm veneer and stained finish. Plus, LL Flooring offers a 50-year residential warranty to help keep these floors looking timeless.

Pros

• Offers vinyl, solid hardwood, engineered hardwood, laminate, bamboo, cork, tile and carpet
• Over 400 stores across 47 states
• Options include wood or stone look
• Floor visualizer tool
• Up to four free samples
• Installation materials available
• GreenGuard Gold or FloorScore Certified
• Includes 30-, 50- and 100-year residential warranties
• 6-, 12-, 18- and 24-month financing available

Cons

• Free shipping only offered for local store pickup
• No locations in Alaska, Hawaii or Wyoming (can still ship to Wyoming)

Shop on LL Flooring

Best Click-Lock Flooring

South American Legends Teak Flooring

Those seeking a golden honey tone, plus a smooth and medium gloss finish, are in luck—this easy-to-install South American Legends teak flooring is incredibly simple to install thanks to easy click-lock installation. Just like laminate, this wood floor only requires a few simple tools to get started. A variation in tone makes for a lovely contrast throughout any room, and the varying length makes it easy to cover any square footage.

“I love this flooring,” writes reviewer, Jane. “Now I want to do the rest of my house! The guys who put it down raved about the ease and beauty of the floor. It looks amazing.”

Pros

• Easy click-lock installation
• Varied tones and board lengths for added interest
• Best for medium to high-traffic areas

Cons

• Not recommended for moisture-prone areas
• Only one color option

Shop on Wayfair

Best Budget Flooring

European Traditions Oak Flooring

At under $4 per square foot, this European Traditions oak flooring rings up as a total bargain. But don’t let that fool you—these oak wood planks feature a fancy French bleed edge that looks lovely with modern farmhouse decor. UV-protective finish and a choice between brown or red planks put this pick near the top of our list. A worn-in feel disguises nicks and scratches, so this easy-to-install flooring holds up well against kids and pets.

Pros

• Inexpensive
• Simple tongue-and-groove installation
• French bleed edges
• UV-protective finish

Cons

• Float installation may make floors susceptible to moisture and humidity

Shop on Wayfair

Best Engineered Wood Flooring for Pets

Mohawk Wimbley Birch Flooring

Having pets doesn’t mean forgoing the beautiful, shiny hardwood floors. Mohawk’s Wimbley birch flooring comes in three scratch-resistant shades: tobacco, burlap and java. Apart from the slip and water-resistant finish, humidity is no match for the cross-ply construction. That means reduced expansion and contraction of boards, which causes creaky floors.

“I love how there are three different sized slats and that the floor looks weathered, it looks so real I had to touch it to see if the floor was rough,” writes reviewer Babshoun. “One of the photos is after my husband used a drill bit and pushed hard to get a scratch. You can barely see it. This floor will be perfect for my dogs, I won’t have to worry about them scratching it up. The color is so pretty, my photos do not do it justice.”

Pros

• Resists spills, scratches and slips
• Easy tongue-and-groove system works with staples, nails, glue or floating installation
• Each box comes with a range of length from 15 to 84 inches
• Works with wooden and concrete subfloors
• Five-year warranty

Cons

• Veneer is thin at only 3/8 of an inch

Shop on Wayfair

Best Hand-Scraped Engineered Wood Flooring

Calatan Hickory Flooring

This Calatan hickory flooring comes in random widths and lengths, giving rooms a rustic vibe. Available in four different finishes, the flooring is compatible with both wood and concrete subfloors. It’s a solid choice for basements—but fix any concrete pitting first. The warm color pallet combined with a hand-scraped surface simulates expensive hardwood at a fraction of the price. Plus, installation is incredibly simple using staples, glue or floating techniques.

Pros

• Hand-scraped for a realistic wood finish
• Random widths and lengths give a rustic, natural look
• Protective coating shields against scuffs and spills

Cons

• Not recommended for moisture prone areas

Shop on Wayfair

Best Scratch-Resistant Engineered Wood Flooring

Scottsmoor Oak Flooring Planks

Simple tongue-and-groove installation makes this Scottsmoor oak flooring planks a good choice for DIYers new to engineered wood flooring. A flat-sawn, matte veneer offers a cohesive look for kitchens, dining rooms or living areas. At three inches thick, these boards are durable enough to stand up to heavy footfall, and the scratch-resistant finish fights scuffs and spills.

“It wears really well and it’s very difficult to scratch it,” says verified reviewer Johnathan. “I have a dog and a cat and I’ve never seen a scratch on it. I’ve had it in for about a year now. It was pretty easy to install and I get compliments all the time and people can’t believe that it’s engineered flooring.”

Pros

• Scratch-resistant finish
• Seven different wood shades
• Compatible with radiant heat
• Compatible with wood and concrete subfloors
• Five-year warranty

Cons

• Floors may shift without underlayment

Shop on Wayfair

Best Engineered Wood Flooring for High Traffic

Anchor Oak Water Resistant Hardwood Flooring

Dent-resistant, water-resistant, wear-resistant Anchor oak flooring looks lovely in the kitchen or bathroom, and it’s frequently on sale! A front and back-facing veneer means never having to worry about ugly exposed gaps when the boards expand or contract with the seasons. In addition, a WearMax DWR finish makes this set of boards slip, dent, water and scratch-resistant.

Pros

• WearMax DWR finish
• Slip, dent, water and scratch-resistant
• Easy click-and-lock installation
• Made in the USA and sustainably sourced
• 10-year warranty

Cons

• Veneer is only one millimeter thick

Shop on Wayfair

Best Engineered Wood Flooring for Kitchens

Albero Valley Maple Wood Flooring

When it comes to the kitchen, durability is top of the mind. This Albero Valley maple wood flooring boasts an 11-step aluminum oxide finish. It resists scratches and dings from dropped silverware, and the hand-rubbed protective stain keeps food from seeping into the 0.5-inch thick veneer. Plus, purposeful distressing done by hand disguises any nicks and marks from everyday use. Here’s what to know about wood stains for maple and how to apply them.

“STUNNING flooring,” writes reviewer Kimberli. “Good quality and durable. It looks clean and even in the kitchen it has stayed nice.”

Pros

• 11-step aluminum oxide finish
• Hand scraped with detailed chatter marks
• Hand-rubbed multi-stain coat
• Seven different finishes

Cons

• Not waterproof
• Thin at only 0.5 millimeters

Shop on Wayfair

Best Waterproof Engineered Wood Flooring

Islander Waterproof Hardwood Flooring

Claiming to be 100% waterproof (and with the reviews to back it up), this waterproof hardwood flooring from Islander uses HDPC core technology that seals out moisture, so it’s safe for use in damp places like bathrooms. In the center, an attached foam pad reduces sound transmission and increases comfort while walking in socks. Because it’s scratch, slip stain and fire-resistant, it’s safe to use in high-traffic areas around the home.

Pros

• Waterproof aluminum oxide and urethane coating
• Easy click-lock installation
• Center padding for comfort
• Scratch, slip stain and fire-resistant
• Lifetime residential warranty
• Eight different wood finishes

Cons

• Can’t refinish

Shop on Wayfair

Best Modern-Looking Engineered Wood Flooring

Newport Hardwood Plank

Newport hardwood planks boast a variety of lengths, but the width of the plank—each one is 7.5 inches—brings a cohesive, modern and fresh feel to any room. A thick three-millimeter wood veneer surface offers protection from scratches, dust and debris. A uniform look and seven stunning color options make this pre-finished wood flooring choice a shoo-in for the overall best engineered wood flooring.

Pros

• Wide 7.5-inch planks
• Three-millimeter wood veneer
• Rated for both indoor and outdoor use
• Scuff and scratch-resistant
• Seven pre-finished colors available

Cons

• Pricey

Shop on Bedrosians

Best Wide Plank Flooring

Laguna Hardwood Plank

Between a handsome wire-brush finish and a durable four-millimeter wood veneer, these Laguna hardwood plank floors are both exquisite and durable. The thicker wood veneer surface protects the underside from water, pet hair and other normal wear-and-tear. Better yet, the planks look incredibly modern thanks to a wide 9.5-inch width that covers more space per square footage.

Pros

• 9.5 inches wide
• Works in interior and exterior spaces
• Resistant to scratches and pet hair
• Thick, four-millimeter veneer surface
• Seven color choices
• Uniform look

Cons

• Pricey

Shop on Bedrosians

Best Durable Engineered Hardwood Flooring

Bruce Dogwood Densified Hardwood

Looking for a durable option? Check out the Bruce Dogwood Densified Hardwood, which has an ultra-durable core that allows for installation on all levels. Senior Editor Caroline Lubinsky had this flooring installed on the second floor of her large multipurpose room, which is used as an office with space. “It’s lovely in tone and variation. The color and extra-wide, 8-inch plank lends itself to multiple decor styles while giving a beautiful, spacious feeling to the room,” she says.

Installers came in, removed the existing carpeting in Lubinsky’s home and laid the floor in less than a day for a room greater than 10 by 28 feet in size. The glue and flooring did not odor, and the installers said this flooring could be refinished in the future.

Lubinsky selected the flooring from Floor & Decor because the manufacturer claims it is dent-, water- and scratch-resistant. She uses it in her three-dog household, and with its ultra-hard, durable exterior, the flooring has held up well. It would also be excellent in a playroom or high-traffic living room.

“The quality, appearance and color all surpass expectations and look better in person than online,” Lubinsky says. “It has a textured wire brush finish with a low gloss level.  If you have pets, kids, a busy family/household or are just looking for a durable, great-looking product that will stand the test of time, this is the flooring for you.”

Pros

• 8.5 inches wide
• Dent-, water- and scratch-resistant
• Ultra-durable core with thick veneer
• Tongue-and-grove planks with a four-sided micro-beveled edge
• Antimicrobial finish
• Made in the USA

Cons

• Pricey

Shop on Floor and Decor

What to Consider When Buying Engineered Wood Flooring

Lightfoot mentions that while engineered hardwood’s performance core design is similar across brands, the styles can differ across a huge variety of hardwood species. Shoppers can find all sorts of wood options, including maple, white oak, red oak, hickory and acacia. “A great benefit of engineered hardwood is it allows for extra-wide and extra-long planks, which are on-trend and make a space feel more expansive and can help to connect styles across rooms,” she says.

“While solid hardwood can deliver five-inch-wide planks, engineered hardwood can extend to nearly 12 inches wide. Depending on the style of floor, wider planks are often associated with more of a modern, trend-forward aesthetic, but also provide a more rustic, farmhouse look if the planks have a distressed design. Thinner planks are commonly associated with more of a classic, historic style.”

• Material: According to Lightfoot, engineered hardwood is constructed with a veneer of real hardwood, which is tightly adhered to a dense, high-performance core. The top veneer can be almost any wood, though it’s typically hardwood.
• Width: Lightfoot notes that “the choice of wider versus thinner flooring planks is purely one of style preference; there are no functional advantages or disadvantages to either.” While wider planks offer a more traditional appearance, thinner wood floorboards look a little more modern. However, they may cost more per square footage.
• Thickness: The thickness of the veneer determines the look, sturdiness and comfort of an engineered wood floor. Thicker veneers also make refinishing older floors possible.
• Moisture resistance: When it comes to moisture resistance, engineered hardwood is more stable in humid environments than traditional hardwood. “Because of its dense core, engineered hardwood planks are less prone to warping in climates with more moisture,” says Lightfoot. That said, these types of floors only offer water resistance—they’re not fully waterproof. “Homeowners looking for a truly waterproof solution should consider wood-look vinyl or laminate flooring.”

How to Install Engineered Wood Flooring

“Installation is one of the big differentiators between engineered and solid hardwood. Because of the dense engineered core, engineered hardwood provides more flexibility for subfloor and installation options,” notes Lightfoot. This makes it easier to install this engineered hardwood in environments you may not normally consider, like basements and kitchens.

“Engineered hardwood can be nailed down, glued down or floated above your subfloor. Select styles have click-lock edges that allow for relatively simple floating installation, making it a more DIY-friendly option for those who are less inclined to take on the challenges of a nail-down or glue-down project.”

Why You Should Trust Us 

Our editors helped test some of the flooring picks above in their own homes in order to describe the real-life buying and installation processes. We also consulted Holly Lightfoot, Director of Merchandising at LL Flooring. Lightfoot is an experienced director with a demonstrated history of working in the home furnishings industry.

Additionally, I spent more than five years as a residential and commercial carpenter in NYC–specializing in custom furniture construction and installation. With hands-on experience and expert insight, I craft product reviews, buying guides and how-to articles in the home improvement, DIY and appliance space.

How We Found the Best Engineered Wood Flooring

We consulted shopping experts and combed through a number of engineered wood floors available online through retailers like Home Depot, Lowe’s, LL Flooring and Wayfair to find the very best engineered wood flooring options for every purpose. Once we had a selection of 20 floors, we narrowed down the list to the 10 with the best reviews. We opted to feature floors that are sturdy, inexpensive and simple to install.

We also tested a couple of our best flooring picks above to verify their overall quality and relay what the installation process is really like.

FAQ

What are the benefits of choosing engineered wood flooring over hardwood?

For those wondering about the benefits of engineered wood flooring vs. solid wood flooring, engineered wood flooring is typically cheaper than solid hardwood. In some ways, you can treat them similarly. For example, when engineered wood boasts a thicker veneer, finishing the surface works just like regular hardwood. Installation of engineered wood floors is also relatively straightforward. Unlike solid hardwood, which must be nailed to a subfloor, it uses interlocking planks that are much more DIY-friendly.

Engineered wood is also beneficial when it comes to cooler climates. “Because of their engineered cores, engineered floors are more resistant to seasonal and environmental changes than solid hardwood, and they allow for planks with larger widths, making it possible to achieve unique looks with fewer breaks in your floor’s appearance,” says Lightfoot.

What is the best way to clean engineered wood flooring?

Lightfoot notes that—like solid hardwood—engineered hardwood should be lightly cleaned on a weekly basis and deep-cleaned monthly. “Every week or two, clean using a dry mop or hardwood-friendly vacuum cleaner—with vacuums, make sure your beater bar is disengaged and free of hard bristles that can cause scuffs or scratches,” she says.

“Every month, use a damp mop to get the finer dirt and dust particles but don’t leave any standing water that can seep into the planks and damage the wood. A great tool to use is LL Flooring’s Bellawood Floor Care Maintenance Kit, which can be used for hardwood, laminate and vinyl.”

How much does engineered wood flooring cost?

Cost is a major factor when determining the best engineered wood flooring. “Like solid hardwood flooring, engineered hardwood flooring is a premium type of flooring, so the cost will vary depending on the style,” says Lightfoot.

That said, there are tons of options that cover almost every style, installation method and budget.

The post The 12 Best Engineered Wood Flooring Options, According to Testing and Reviews appeared first on Family Handyman.

BanksPhotos/Getty Images

Hardwood flooring gives a room a crisp, classic elegance, while the soft look of natural wood warms any room. It’s available pre-finished or unfinished, and in many species.

Hardwood Flooring Pros

• Long lifespan, when properly maintained;
• Durability depends on species of wood (oak is more durable, pine is less so);
• Readily available;
• Easy to clean;
• Good for DIY;
• Unfinished flooring can be stained to any shade.

Hardwood Flooring Cons

• Needs to be refinished every five to eight years depending on use;
• Can be prone to echoes or noise amplification;
• Can be slick when wet and chilly in cold temperatures.

Hardwood Flooring Cost

$5 to $12 per square foot. Price factors include board width, squares vs. planks and wood species.

jferrer/Getty Images

Engineered Flooring

Shop on Home Depot

Engineered flooring combines a veneer of hardwood over one or two layers of manufactured material, usually high-density fiberboard or plywood. Engineered wood flooring provides the look of hardwood at a reduced price.

Engineered Flooring Pros

• More affordable than hardwood flooring;
• Readily available;
• Easy to clean;
• More environmentally friendly (manufactured layers made of reclaimed material);
• Depending on thickness of veneer, it may or may not be refinished;
• Available as pre-finished or stainable;
• You can DIY this, nail to a wood subfloor or glue on a concrete slab.

Read more about engineered wood, here.

Engineered Flooring Cons

• Slightly less durable — deep gouges may expose layering;
• Needs to be refinished every five to eight years depending on use;
• Limited number of refinishes over the floor’s lifetime, determined by veneer thickness.

Engineered Flooring Cost

$3 to $6.50 per square foot. Price factors include squares vs. planks, plank width, species of veneer layer and thickness of veneer.

2xSamara.com/Shutterstock

Laminate Flooring

Shop on Lowe's

Laminate flooring is a pressboard subsurface topped by a treated layer designed to look like wood. Unlike engineered flooring, it does not have an actual hardwood layer. While some laminate flooring can be vulnerable to moisture, there are water-resistant laminate options.

Laminate Flooring Pros

• More affordable than hardwood or engineered flooring;
• Durable against wear and tear — the top “wear” layer on quality laminate can take a lot of abuse;
• Readily available;
• Easy to clean;
• Pre-finished;
• DIY friendly with “floating” options requiring no glue or nails;
• Good lifespan — lasts 10 to 20 years, depending on usage and wear layer;
• Inexpensive way to get wood look.

Laminate Flooring Cons

• Pre-finished designs limit options;
• When damage does get through, it tends to be noticeable — scratches may expose layering;
• Vulnerable to water (use moisture-resistant underlayment if the material will be exposed to moisture);
• Not real wood, so it can’t be refinished or re-stained;
• Doesn’t last as long as hardwood or quality engineered flooring.

Laminate Flooring Cost

$1 to $5 per square foot. Price factors include durability of top “wear” layer, style and water resistance.

happydancing/Shutterstock

Ceramic, Stone or Porcelain Tile Flooring

Shop on Home Depot

Most floor tile is ceramic, though materials such as natural stone or porcelain are available. Tile is a great choice for areas that may get wet, such as kitchens, bathrooms or entryways. Some homeowners like tile throughout the house because it’s easy to clean; others avoid tile in living areas because it’s relatively cold and noisy.

Ceramic, Stone or Porcelain Tile Flooring Pros

• Extremely durable and scratch resistant;
• Long lifespan;
• Moderately easy to clean as long as grout and tile remain sealed;
• Readily available;
• Wide variety of sizes and styles available;
• DIY friendly with practice and proper tools.

Ceramic, Stone or Porcelain Tile Flooring Cons

• Individual tiles can be replaced, but not easily;
• If dropped, a heavy item could crack or break a tile;
• Not great for noise reduction;
• Can be chilly on bare feet;
• Depending on finish, can be slick when wet.

Ceramic, Stone or Porcelain Tile Flooring Cost

$1.50 to $15 per square foot. Price factors include size of tile, country of origin, tile material, grout width and type of grout.

GSPhotography/Shutterstock

Bamboo Flooring

Shop on Home Depot

Bamboo flooring is increasingly popular because of its strength and sustainability. Some variations are more resilient than others, including “strand woven” varieties or specially strengthened flooring such as the Fossilized line from Cali Bamboo.

Bamboo Flooring Pros

• Environmentally friendly;
• Extremely durable (up to three times as dense as hardwood);
• Long lifespan;
• Normally comes in pre-stained varieties;
• DIY friendly; installation is similar to hardwood.

Bamboo Flooring Cons

• Might be a special order in some locations;
• Many varieties can be refinished, but not all (be sure to ask);
• Pre-finished stock can limit color options.

Bamboo Flooring Cost

$10 to $13 per square foot for solid bamboo, $2.50 to $6.50 for engineered. Price factors include color, finish style, plank vs. squares, plank width and density.

rtyree1/Getty Images

Concrete Flooring

Shop on Home Depot

Wondering what to lay over top of that basement floor? What about just prettying up the concrete itself? Concrete floors are surprisingly attractive when properly stained, sealed or polished. They’re incredibly long-lasting and can add a modern flair.

Most DIYers who are renovating will be looking at staining and sealing existing concrete in areas such as garages, workshops or basements. Those working on new builds can choose any of several concrete finishes during construction.

Concrete Flooring Pros

• Affordable, especially if you’re fixing up existing concrete — no additional flooring to buy, only stains and sealers;
• DIY friendly if fixing up existing; less so if starting from scratch;
• Extremely durable;
• Materials are readily available.

Concrete Flooring Cons

• Echo effect — concrete floors can be noisy;
• Prolonged standing on concrete can cause fatigue;
• Very heavy. If considering adding concrete to an existing home, be sure to consult a pro.

Concrete Flooring Cost (New)

Materials to pour, stain or polish new-build concrete floor range from $4 to $12 per square foot. Price factors include home design, style of stain and pattern intricacy.

Concrete Flooring Costs (Existing)

Materials to stain or seal existing concrete floor range from 30 cents to $2 per square foot. Price factors include style of stain and pattern intricacy.

VanoVasaio/Shutterstock

Cork Flooring

Shop on Lowe's

Like bamboo, cork is an environmentally friendly option for flooring. It has the elegance of hardwood, but with a warmer, more inviting look. Cork flooring is available in planks or tiles. Here, find out why you should consider cork flooring for your basement.

Cork Flooring Pros

• Environmentally friendly;
• Reasonably priced;
• DIY friendly.

Cork Flooring Cons

• May require a special order in some locations;
• Less resistant to wear and tear than hardwood or bamboo.

Cork Flooring Cost

$3 to $6 per square foot. Price factors include squares vs. planks, plank width, color and texture.

perfectlab/Getty Images

Carpet

While everyone is familiar with carpet, many homeowners don’t appreciate the range of carpeting options. Modern carpet is available as stick-down squares or large rolls, and in an almost-infinite array of styles, colors and textures. In addition, modern carpet pads last longer and give more cushion than in previous years.

Carpet Pros

• Readily available;
• DIY-friendly options available (rolls are large and hard to maneuver);
• Many styles and colors available to match your home;
• Maintenance cleaning is easily done with a vacuum;
• Much softer than other options.

Carpet Cons

• Repair difficulty varies by color and type of carpet pile;
• Easily stained (especially light colors);
• Deep cleaning requires special equipment;
• Durability — most carpet will need to be replaced in five to 12 years.

Carpet Cost

$2.50 to $9 per square foot (for carpet and pad). Price factors include wall-to-wall vs. squares, natural vs. synthetic fibers, quality of padding and pile (the density and length of fibers).

SMedia/Getty Images

Vinyl Composition Tile Flooring

Vinyl Composition Tile (VCT) is a robust flooring option. While peel-and-stick vinyl tile is more affordable, it’s ultimately a short-term solution. By contrast, VCT is a long-term flooring option that can be buffed, refinished and sealed, much like hardwood flooring.

VCT Flooring Pros

• Surprisingly durable (color is throughout the tile, so scratches aren’t readily visible);
• Long lifespan — service life up to 40 years;
• If a tile is damaged, it can be replaced;
• Readily available;
• Affordable;
• Environmentally friendly — the long service life requires less to be made, and relatively few fossil fuels are used in its manufacture,
• DIY friendly.
  

VCT Flooring Cons

• Has an industrial feel — VCT is what you see on the floors in big box stores like Lowe’s or The Home Depot;
• Distinctive look may not fit all spaces.

VCT Flooring Cost

VCT is 60 cents to $1.25 per square foot. Price factors include thickness and color of tile. You’ll also need a sealer and polisher when installing the VCT, as well as a cleaner and potentially stripper for maintenance. That should total around $50 more.

nata_zhekova/Getty Images

Linoleum Flooring

Shop on Lowe's

Once found in millions of homes, sheet linoleum is far less popular today. But it’s still an affordable option, especially for kitchens and entryways. And while the classic linoleum “pebble” look of the ’70s is still available, there are now sheet products that capture the appearance of everything from wood planks to mosaic tiles.

Linoleum Flooring Pros

• Readily available;
• Affordable;
• Resists wear and tear.

Linoleum Flooring Cons

• Deeper gouges and scratches stand out visually;
• Damage is hard to repair and may require replacement;
• Only moderately DIY friendly.

Linoleum Flooring Cost

50 cents to $2.75 per square foot. Price factors include length of roll, color and design of linoleum.

AePatt Journey/Getty Images

Rubber Mat Flooring

Shop on Amazon

Interlocking rubber mats have rapidly grown in popularity for home gyms, children’s playrooms, basements and workshops.

Rubber Mat Flooring Pros

• Reasonably priced;
• DIY friendly;
• Great for sound dampening;
• Open-cell versions allow spilled water to evaporate;
• A cushioning material, it can lower fatigue in workshops;
• If damaged, single squares are easily replaced.

Rubber Mat Flooring Cons

• Not as “finished” as other options; use mostly limited to work and play areas;
• Open-cell versions require an underlayment or water resistant subfloor, such as concrete.

Rubber Mat Flooring Cost

$1 to $3.50 per square foot. Price factors include durability of interlocking, thickness and solid vs. open design.

The post Buyer’s Guide To Flooring Options appeared first on Family Handyman.

• There are many options for concrete floor paint on the market today. Whether you’re painting your garage floor, basement floor or even your front stoop, it’s good to know what paint to buy.
• Drylok Concrete Floor Paint works well for basement floors. This latex-based paint is durable enough for high-traffic areas. There’s no need for a primer coat, and you can paint over previously painted floors. This paint dries fast with low odor and cleans up with soap and water. Available in various colors and white base for custom tinting. Learn how to clean concrete floors in the basement.
• Rust-Oleum’s Epoxy Shield Basement Floor Coating Kit can help change your basement into a living space. This two-part water-based epoxy applies in one coat with no primer needed. The kit includes two cans (one quart activator and one gallon base paint) with decorative chips for texture. Here find out all about epoxy basement flooring.
• Kilz Concrete & Garage Floor Paint is a one-part interior/exterior water-based floor paint. Suitable for high traffic areas like sidewalks and garage floors, it applies in one coat to concrete, masonry, stone and brick. Dries to touch in two hours. Recoat in four hours.

Prep Painting Area

• Clear the painting area completely, removing any obstacles.
• Inspect the concrete for cracks, structural damage and loose chipping paint, as well as dirt, water and grease.
• Fill any crack with a concrete crack sealer and fix any structural damage with hydraulic cement or quick-setting cement. Be sure the cement is fully cured before painting.
• If the floor has been painted several times, you may want to remove old paint with a wire brush or a side grinder with a wire wheel attachment.
• Thoroughly sweep and vacuum the painting area.

Tape Off

• Use painter’s tape to mask off the walls and baseboard around the perimeter of the room. Mask off any moldings, banisters and baseboard heaters you want to keep free of paint.

Primer coat

• It may be necessary to apply a coat of primer at this point. Some floor paints don’t require a primer. Check the application instructions on the paint can and do what the manufacturer recommends.
• DryLoc floor paint recommends the first coat should be thinned with one pint of water per gallon of paint. Let the first coat dry a minimum of four hours between coats.

Cutting In

• Before you start, open a few windows for ventilation.
• Pour a manageable amount of paint into a small container you can hold in one hand. Paint the edge of the floor along the perimeter of the whole room, using a 2-1/2-in. angled paintbrush. (This is called “cutting in.”)

Roller Painting

• Be sure to stir the paint with a paint stick before you begin.
• Start in the corner of the room farthest from the door. Work your way out as you paint in three- to four-foot sections. Be sure not to paint yourself in a corner.
• Fill the roller tray a little over half-full with paint. Too much paint in the tray may spill over.
• Load the roller with paint from the paint tray and roll paint on the floor. Roll straight back over the paint without reloading the roller to ensure the floor is covered evenly.
• Again, load the roller with paint and start a new row overlapping the previous one. The edges of the roller tend to leave paint build-up lines. Roll back over the lines and blend them in with the rest of the paint.

Clean Up

• Wash your paintbrush with hot water and dish soap immediately after you’ve finished.
• Wash your roller with hot water and dish soap (or dispose of it) immediately after you’ve finished.
• Allow the paint to dry completely (minimum four hours).
• While slowly peeling away the tape you applied, use a putty knife to score along the edge where it meets the floor to prevent the new paint from peeling up.

The post How to Paint Concrete Floors appeared first on Family Handyman.

Update Old Light Fixture

Bring your lighting up-to-date with a new light fixture. Whether you update your pendant light in the dining room or your lamps in the living room, a new light fixture is an inexpensive way to help you see your space in a whole new light.

Consider these 14 modern pendant lighting trends that will light up your life.

Use Neutrals

An easy way to make a space look more expensive is with neutrals. Painting? Try a neutral shade. Looking to replace a couch? Try one with a neutral-hued fabric. Here are 12 hot color trends for bedrooms.

Fake Built-Ins

Fake an expensive built-in look with this inexpensive trick: Use several bookcases to create the look of floor to ceiling built-ins. Do a web search for IKEA bookshelf hacks and you’ll find plenty of ideas to consider. Or build the bookshelves yourself.

Update Hardware

For a quick and inexpensive way to update the look of your kitchen or bathroom, invest in some new hardware. Try a new towel bar with coordinating drawer and door pulls. Install cabinet hardware right the first time with this guide.

Add Fresh Landscaping

You don’t have to spend a fortune on landscaping for an expensive look. Invest in some perennials for a flower bed that will come back year after year, along with some new mulch to give your home’s landscape a fresh update. Try these 20 cheap landscaping fixes that look expensive.

Try Tile

A tile backsplash is an inexpensive way to add an expensive look to your kitchen. Try subway tile, which is an affordable option that doesn’t go out of style. This tutorial will guide you through the process of installing subway tile.

Add Molding

You can give your plain, boring walls an updated look with some molding. Add narrow strips for a picture-framing look or crown molding for an expensive look with an inexpensive price tag. Follow this wood molding installation guide for perfect results.

Update Your Entryway

Make the entry of your home a welcoming spot. Whether you paint the front door a bold color, add colorful flowers in planters or a wreath, simple touches go a long way. Here are 15 stunning front doors to inspire you.

Go Big With Art

Update your home’s artwork with one statement piece. When you hang an over-sized piece of art by itself, it has a big impact. Look for inexpensive, fun pieces at thrift stores and flea markets. Don’t forget to check out these ideas to upgrade your apartment kitchen.

Mix Textures

By adding different textures to a room, you create a custom (read: more expensive) look. Try adding a Turkish rug with a wood arm chair and metal accessories. Add some throw pillows in various textures such as silk and velvet to round out the look. Check out these 25 trends in home decor.

Also, make sure to be intentional with design choices to avoid making your home look tacky.

Add a Piece of History

Have a historical item you’re proud off? Show it off. It doesn’t matter if you purchased it on a favorite vacation or if it’s a hand-me-down from grandma, give it a prominent spot in your home, displayed in a luxe frame or memory box. Yes, you can politely turn down heirloom items you don’t want. Here’s how.

Say No to Clutter

There’s nothing expensive looking about clutter. Start by getting rid of things you no longer want or use and then look for chic baskets and bins to help you get your clutter organized and out-of-sight. Never heard of Swedish death cleaning? Here are 10 things to know.

Display Flowers and Plants

Flowers and plants are an inexpensive way to give a room an instant face lift. Find a favorite vase and add a colorful bouquet or display a lovely potted plant on a coffee table or bookshelf. These are 10 nontoxic houseplants that are safe if you have pets.

Turn it Gold

For a big look that’s easy on the wallet, buy a can of gold spray paint to update the look of picture and mirror frames, trays and vases. This inexpensive idea will add a bit of glamour to any room. Here are 14 ways to embellish your home with metallic paint.

Add a Gallery Wall

If you see some inexpensive frames you like, buy several and use them to show off favorite photos, your child’s artwork, postcards and menus saved from memorable meals. When you get tired of the art, just swap it out with something new. This is the easiest way to hang a gallery wall.

Upscale White

Old pillows and blankets can make a bedroom feel dingy and dull. Brighten up the room by replacing them. Choose crisp white bed linens for an inexpensive way to make a bedroom look luxurious. Freshen your bed linens without chemicals.

Add a Rug

An area rug can transform and pull a room together. You don’t have to pay a lot, but look for rugs that will last even with heavy foot traffic and in colors that complement the space. These are the 11 design rules you should never break.

Create an Accent Wall

Whether you use a bold paint color, wood or wallpaper, bring a drab space to life with an accent wall. For a lustrous look, go for a wallpaper with a bit of shine (but not too much) to create a pricey look with an inexpensive price tag. Here are 15 stunning accent walls you can do yourself.

Add Recessed Lighting

Recessed lighting can help add interest to a space, whether in a bedroom, kitchen, living room or den. The look can transform boring ceilings with a few simple upgrades. Here’s what you need to know to install recessed lighting.

Update Window Treatments

Those drab curtains have to go. Bring an instant update to a room with new window treatments—curtains, Roman shades or blinds. Or, if you have attractive window trim and privacy shades of some kind and you like the minimalist look, you can skip window treatments all together. Here are some awesome ideas for window treatments.

The post How to Make Your House Look Expensive in 20 Inexpensive Ways appeared first on Family Handyman.

Easy Chair Fix

This easy home fix is one you’ll definitely want to keep handy! Trying to keep a rickety old chair together without going through the trouble of taking it apart and re-gluing it?

The simple home fix is to just drill pilot holes and drive trim-head screws through the bottom of the rungs and into the legs.

Lube a Sticking Vinyl Window or Door

When vinyl windows and doors don’t operate smoothly, it’s usually because gunk has built up in the channels. But sometimes even clean windows and doors can bind.

Try spraying dry PTFE spray lubricant on the contact points and wiping it off with a rag. Don’t use oil lubricants for this home fix; they can attract dirt, and some can damage the vinyl.

Fix a Shutoff Valve

There’s nothing worse than starting a sink or toilet repair only to find that the shutoff valve won’t shut off. Some shutoff valves are easy to replace.

For those that aren’t, turn off the main water valve, remove the packing nut, and then unscrew the stem and take it to the hardware store to find a replacement washer. Clean any grit out of the valve body and pop on the new washer. The valve will work like new.

Foam a Loose Showerhead

Here’s an easy home fix that can be used beyond the bathroom. Fix a wobbly showerhead, or any wobbly pipe, with a few squirts of expanding foam.

The foam encases the pipe in the wall and locks it into place, eliminating the wobble, so your showerhead will work like new. Can you think of an easier home fix?

Hide a Hole with a Smoke Detector

Short on time and money? Instead of patching a hole in the ceiling (which often means repainting the whole ceiling) just cover it with a battery-operated smoke detector. No more hole, and added safety, to boot!

Keep Cabinet Doors Closed

Here’s a 10-minute fix for a cabinet door that won’t stay closed. Just install a magnetic door catch. Roller-style ones also work, but it’s easier to line up a magnetic catch with the strike.

Silence a Squeaky Floor

To fix a squeaky floor under carpet, locate the floor joists with a stud finder, then drive in a trim head screw through the carpet, pad and subfloor, and right into the floor joist. Be sure the top inch of the screw doesn’t have threads or the subfloor won’t suck down tight to the joist.

We like trim screws because screws with larger heads pull down and pucker the carpet. If that happens, back out the screw and drive it back down. Keep adding screws until the squeak stops.

Bleach Away a Water Stain

Before you go through the trouble of repainting a ceiling to get rid of a water stain, try this easy home fix. Spray the spot with a bleach and water solution (10 percent bleach), and wait a day or two.

If it’s an old stain, use a mold and mildew remover from the grocery store. You’d be surprised how often the stain disappears by the next day. It works on both flat and textured ceilings. Wear safety goggles, and make sure you protect the walls and floors with plastic.

Fix a Wallpaper Seam

If you have a wallpaper seam that’s coming apart, reactivate the paste around the gap with a rag soaked in warm water. Hold the rag over the area for a minute or two, and then carefully open the gap a little larger so you’ll have more room for the sealer.

Squeeze seam sealer (white glue works in a pinch) into the gap, and press the paper to the wall with a roller. Clean off the excess sealer with a sponge.

Restore Free Flow to a Faucet

When a kitchen or bathroom faucet loses pressure or starts spraying to the side, it’s usually due to a dirty aerator screen. Luckily, cleaning a screen is an easy job.

Start this fix by closing the drain plug (so you don’t drop parts down the drain). Then remove the aerator using a rag or masking tape so you don’t mar the finish with your pliers.

To remove the sand and other deposits, soak the aerator in vinegar, then scrub it with a toothbrush. This usually solves the problem. If you have to disassemble the aerator to clean it, lay out the parts in the order you removed them so you can reassemble them correctly.

Unclog a Toilet With Dish Soap

If the toilet plunger doesn’t seem to be doing the trick, try this solution before you reach for the snake. Squirt about 1/2 cup of liquid soap in and let it sit for a while. The liquid soap reduces friction and will often allow the contents of the bowl to slide on through.

Fix a Running Toilet: Flush Without Hang-Ups

Here’s a quick way to avoid a running toilet caused by a kinked toilet chain. Remove the chain from the arm attachment, and slide a plastic straw over the flapper chain, covering about two-thirds of the chain. Then reattach the chain to the arm.

It’s that simple, and you’ll never have a running toilet caused by a kinked chain again.

Extract a Stripped Screw

A stripped screw can turn a 10-minute fix into a two-hour nightmare. One of the best investments a DIYer can make is a screw extraction kit.

One side of the extractor bit reams a hole into the screw, and the other side has reverse threads that dig into the screw as you turn it out.

Reinforce a Drawer Front

Here’s a quick home fix for a drawer front that’s pulling off. Cut a couple of lengths of quarter-round the same height as the drawer sides. Hold them in place while you drill a couple of holes through the sides and front of the drawer box.

Dab some polyurethane glue (wood glue doesn’t stick well to finished surfaces) on the pieces of quarter-round before screwing them into place.

Cover Up a Ceiling Stain

Hide tough ceiling water stains with a spray-on product called Upshot by KILZ. It’s blended to match an aged ceiling and even has a vertical spray tip, which makes installation a breeze. Lay a drop cloth on the floor and tape plastic on the walls before you spray.

Straighten a Bent Blind

Unmangle mangled mini-blinds with a mini-blind slat straightener. Just slide it over the damaged slat and squeeze. The product, called the MiniBlindRx, works on 1-inch metal slats.

The post 10-Minute House Repair and Home Maintenance Tips appeared first on Family Handyman.

Water-based and oil-based polyurethane each offer good protection; the biggest difference is in appearance. Polyurethane is actually the most durable hardwood floor finish.

There’s debate over which finish is harder, but some experts maintain that hardness isn’t necessarily a good attribute of a floor finish. You want a finish that will flex along with the floor. And a super-hard finish shows scratches more readily. You’ll prolong the protective life of any finish by eliminating its No. 1 enemies: dirt and grit. Sweep or vacuum the floor often and put throw rugs in high-traffic areas.

Plus, check out these tips and techniques for applying polyurethane that produce virtually flawless results. They include where wipe-on poly is better than a roller, and the best way to control dust.

Water-Based Polyurethane

Pros

• Provides a clear finish with low odor.
• If you love the natural look of maple, apply a water-based (waterborne) polyurethane.
  • Pro tip: They appear milky in the can, but go on clear and remain clear. They’ll slightly accent the character of your wood without giving it the amber tint of an oil-based poly. (However, some woods, like the oak shown, cry out for that amber tint.)
• Water-based finishes dry fast — most within two hours — so you can apply several coats in a day.
  • Pro tip: If you start early enough, you can apply the recommended four coats and sleep in the room that night.
• Cleans up with water too.

Cons

• Water-based polys cost twice as much as oil-based polys.
• They won’t give wood the rich glow that oil-based polys impart; some even consider them cold looking.
• Some waterborne polys go on so clear that you’ll have to mark each swath of finish as you go.
• Most water-based polys contain only 30 to 35 percent solids, compared with the 45 to 50 percent solids in oil-based products.
  • Pro tip: Since these solids create the protective finish, you need to apply four coats, as opposed to two or three.
• When applying polyurethane to floors, you may need to apply additional coats every two years or so.

Oil-Based Polyurethane

Pros

• Leaves an amber glow and requires fewer coats than water-based polyurethane.
• Less expensive than water-based polys.
• Contain 45 to 50 percent solids, which creates a more protective finish.
• Require less maintenance over time.

Cons

• The five-hour wait between coats and 12-hour wait after the last coat will put a bedroom out of commission for a few days.
• You’ll have to put up with a strong odor.

Next, find out whether your floor needs waxing.

The post Water-Based vs. Oil-Based Polyurethane Floor Finish appeared first on Family Handyman.

Jeff Palla, President of Mr. Handyman, also emphasizes the importance of aesthetics when selecting basement flooring. He suggests considering how you’ll use the space and assessing the wear and tear it might face. This approach will help you choose materials that not only look appealing but also withstand the demands of everyday use.

Check out these best flooring for basement options and learn how to protect yours from moisture damage and mold growth.

Vinyl Plank Flooring/Vinyl Tile Flooring

Vinyl plank flooring (VPF) and vinyl tile flooring (VTF) are similar to click laminate flooring, but they’re better in three ways. First, VPF and VTF are impervious to liquid and vapor moisture. This matters because even seemingly dry basements can have enough moisture vapor migration to trigger mold growth.

Second, VPF and VTF are extremely durable. Both are made from the same materials, differing only in the shape of the pieces. Tiles are square and planks are rectangular. Lastly, vinyl flooring of this kind is flexible enough that it doesn’t need a super-flat surface like laminates do. “It can be applied directly to a concrete floor with an adhesive, making it easy to install,” explains Palla.

Carpet

“If you’re looking to furnish a basement family room or playroom, wall-to-wall carpet is an ideal option for soft cushioned comfort on the floor,” says Brian Shaunfield, a flooring expert and Lowe’s store manager.

If you go this route, don’t make the mistake of installing carpet and underlay directly on basement concrete. Summertime mustiness is one reason why. When humid summer air enters the carpet pile and comes close to the concrete underneath, that air can cool to the dew point, releasing fine droplets of water within the carpet or underlay. That’s why finished basements smell musty.

Always install basement carpet on top of a vapor-impervious subfloor. This will raise the temperature of the floor in winter, make your carpet more pleasant to walk on, and most importantly, prevent humid air from cozying up to the concrete and triggering mold growth.

Rubber Flooring

This is a durable, moisture-proof and informal floor that makes good sense for basements, especially utility or play areas. Rubber flooring is unaffected by moisture, both liquid and vapor. It usually comes as interlocking tiles, and it can be easily removed or reconfigured after installation if your needs change. Rubber is comfortable under foot, which is an important factor when selecting the best flooring for a basement, too.

Ceramic and Porcelain Tiles

Ceramic and porcelain tiles offer several advantages, including high durability, water-resistance and long-lasting performance, says Palla. These tough, attractive, hard-wearing picks are some of the best flooring for basement options, as long as the installation includes two important details.

First, never install hard-surface tiles such as ceramics and porcelain directly on concrete. Tiles should be installed on top of an uncoupling membrane to boost reliability. Sure, concrete is usually stable. But it can expand and contract at different rates than the tiles, causing tile cracks over time. An uncoupling membrane greatly reduces the chance of cracking because it allows a small but crucial amount of side-to-side tile movement relative to the concrete underneath.

The second issue is cold feet in chilly climates. One solution for cold tile floors is to choose an uncoupling membrane that’s made to accept electric heating cables. The best systems include built-in insulation to stop the loss of heat downward into the concrete.

Laminate Flooring

In 1993, a European company called Pergo introduced laminate flooring to North America and it has been a popular choice ever since. Today’s best laminates resist moisture, as my submersion tests have shown. They also look like real hardwood floors, without the expensive price tag.

The durability of laminate flooring is exceptional if you choose one with an abrasion class (AC) rating of three or higher on a scale of one to five. The AC rating measures the resistance of laminate flooring to abrasion.

The only problem with laminates in basements is the need for a flat floor. Most manufacturers specify no more than a 1/4 inch of deviation from flat over a 10-foot radius. And while many concrete basement floors are not this flat, it is possible to use a floor leveling compound to correct major issues. Laminates should always be installed over subfloor tiles, and the best subfloor systems accept leveling shims so you can create a stable, wobble-free installation surface.

What to Look for When Buying Basement Flooring

There are several factors to consider when choosing flooring for your basement. “It’s important to evaluate the moisture and humidity in your basement, as that can impact which flooring option is best so it doesn’t warp or buckle,” says Shaunfield. “Depending on if you live in a more humid climate, you’ll want to choose a material that is more water-resistant to help prevent any mold build-up.”

Shaunfield shares another important tip: Make sure the material is labeled “below-grade.” This means it was designed to be installed in a basement versus ground level flooring. Your personal style and budget are also important factors when shopping for flooring, he adds.

Ceramic and porcelain tiles are durable and stylish, but cost more and can be difficult to clean, shares Palla. Luxury vinyl planks are affordable and easy-to-maintain, but hard to install and remove. Engineered hardwood gives you the look of traditional hardwood, but it’s cheaper, easier to install and has more durability to heat, moisture and scratches, explains Shaunfield.

Why You Should Trust Us

Over the years, I’ve honed my skills as a carpenter, builder, stone mason, cabinetmaker and homesteader, which has informed my writing for publications like Family Handyman, Reader’s Digest, Canadian Contractor and more. Living in a stone and timber house that I built myself on Manitoulin Island, Canada—I bring a practical, hands-on approach to home improvement. You can rely on my recommendations, which are based on my deep understanding of construction.

We also sought input from industry professionals, including Brian Shaunfield, a Lowe’s store manager and flooring expert. With decades of experience in the home improvement industry, Shaunfield boasts first-hand knowledge of sales trends and customer needs.

We also consulted Jeff Palla, the President of Mr. Handyman, a Neighborly company that offers home maintenance and repair services. Mr. Handyman, which has served nearly 1 million customers across North America, employs highly skilled craftsmen with an average of 10 years’ experience in the trades.

How We Found the Best Basement Flooring

To find the best basement flooring options, we began by researching a wide range of materials, including vinyl, laminate, carpet and engineered hardwood. We focused on products specifically designed for basement environments, prioritizing those with waterproof or water-resistant properties to protect against potential moisture issues. Additionally, we took into account real user experiences and expert opinions to evaluate performance, appearance and overall value.

The post What Is the Best Flooring for a Basement? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Olefin carpet is emerging as a popular choice in carpeting. Here’s what it is and why so many homeowners are choosing olefin carpet.

What is Olefin Carpet?

Olefin is a synthetic (manufactured) material. It’s also known as polypropylene, a type of thermoplastic used to make a wide range of household products, medical devices and more. Because it’s derived from plastic, olefin carpet is best installed in places with the potential for water damage.

Olefin Carpet Pros

• Inexpensive: Olefin carpet averages about $1.50 per square foot. That compares favorably to nylon, the most popular carpet material that averages between $3.25 and $7.50 per square foot.

• Water, mold and mildew resistant: Olefin carpet wicks away moisture, making it a great choice for basements, patios and anywhere else that could get damp.

• Does not generate static: Helpful in computer rooms and in drier climates.

• Stain resistant: Olefin carpet gets high marks for repelling stains. Most substances (but not all) simply roll off the fibers and pool at the bottom of the carpet, where they are easily spot treated. Read on to learn what olefin does not repel.

• Attractive: Olefin carpet is often made to look like more expensive wool carpet.

• Many different styles and colors: If it’s variety you’re after, olefin carpet has a lot to offer.

Olefin Carpet Cons

• Can mat easily: Olefin carpet does not hold up as well to foot traffic as other carpet materials, such as nylon. Choose a low-pile or looped, Berber carpet style to reduce matting.

• Not as durable as other carpet materials: Because it mats so easily, you won’t get as much mileage out of olefin carpet as nylon or triexta carpet. For that reason, it’s best suited for low-traffic areas.

• Absorbs oil and grease: While olefin carpet is generally stain resistant, it does not resist grease and oils. It absorbs both substances, including human oils from skin. Your best defense is to attack any carpet oil stains ASAP.

• Highly heat sensitive: It only takes a little heat to melt, burn or scorch olefin carpet. Simply dragging furniture across olefin carpet can leave lasting burn marks. Always pick up and move furniture on olefin carpet!

The post Everything to Know About Olefin Carpets appeared first on Family Handyman.

While triexta carpet has only been around for a few years, it has quickly earned its place in homes across America. Here, we explain why and share some important information about triexta carpet.

What is Triexta Carpet?

Triexta is a synthetic (manufactured) material developed by DuPont. While it shares many characteristics with polyester, triexta has several important differences in its chemical makeup that makes it a subclass of polyester.

You might hear triexta referred to by three other names: polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT), which is its technical name; Sorona, partially made from renewable corn sugar; and SmartStrand, the brand name you’ll most often encounter at carpet and home improvement stores. In addition to eco-friendly, Sorona is known for being soft, long-lasting and stain resistant. This makes it a popular material for apparel as well as carpet.

Today, DuPont continues to be the sole producer of triexta and Sorona. Mohawk Industries uses triexta/Sorona to make the SmartStrand carpet marketed to consumers.

Triexta Carpet Pros

• Stain resistant: Triexta carpet is engineered to resist stains not on its coating, but within its very fiber. To prove its point, Mohawk Industries let 10 large zoo animals and 43,000 zoo visitors trample on SmartStrand for two weeks. The result: The triexta carpet was totally cleaned with just hot water extraction.

• Relatively inexpensive: Triexta carpet averages between $2.29 and $4.48 per square foot. That offers savings over nylon, the most popular carpet material, which averages between $3.25 and $7.50 per square foot

• Water, mold and mildew resistant: Triexta carpet does not absorb water, making it perfect for basements and any other area that could get damp.

• Soft feel: Because triexta carpet doesn’t need a chemical application to achieve its famed stain resistance, it tends to be softer underfoot than nylon and polyester.

• Can be eco-friendly: Corn glucose is used to produce up to 37 percent of most kinds of SmartStrand carpet. This makes it an environmentally friendly flooring option.

Triexta Carpet Cons

• Can be hard to vacuum: Triexta carpet fibers are more dense than other carpet materials. The best way to get your triexta carpet good and clean (without tiring out your arm!) is to choose a high-quality vacuum cleaner that lets you adjust the beater brush height.

• Short track record: As a relative newcomer to the market, triexta lacks a long history to substantiate some of its claims.

Check out our guide to how to choose the best carpet for your home..

The post Everything You Need to Know About Triexta Carpet appeared first on Family Handyman.

Berber carpet is a popular flooring option worth considering. Here’s what to know about Berber carpet and whether it’s right for your home.

What Is Berber Carpet?

The defining feature of Berber carpet is its looped construction. Berber carpet features loops (made from fibers such as olefin, nylon and wool) that are sewn or tufted into the carpet’s backing. Unlike traditional pile carpet, the loops are usually left uncut. However, you’ll also find cut Berber (a.k.a California Berber) and cut-and-loop Berber, which is a combination of loops and cut loops.

Berber carpet traces its origin to the Berbers, an ethnic group native to North Africa. They are famous for their hand-woven carpets that feature distinct knot patterns.

If you have pets, watch this video to learn how to get pet urine stains out of carpet.

Modern Berber Carpet Features

When choosing a modern Berber carpet, your options include:

• Loop style: The size of the loops can vary from low and tight to high and loose. The loops can be a uniform height or they can vary in height.

• Color: While traditional Berber carpets are bright, modern Berber carpets can be virtually any color, including a vast array of neutrals. A popular option is multicolored Berber carpet with flecks of color throughout.

• Carpet fiber: The highest-quality (and priciest) Berber carpets are made from wool and nylon. Berber carpets can also be made from less-expensive olefin (polypropylene), polyester or a mix of fiber blends.

Pros of Berber Carpet

• Inexpensive: Like almost all types of carpet, Berber carpet is one of the most affordable flooring options around. This is especially true if you opt for a non-wool Berber carpet. Berber carpet made of olefin costs as little as $5 to $6 per square foot, installed. That’s a bargain when you consider that hardwood flooring averages around $8 to $22 per square foot, installed.

• Stain resistant: Most Berber carpet has a tight weave that helps it resist stains.

• Durable: Unlike cut-pile carpets with fibers that can unravel over time, the fibers in Berber carpet are woven to the backing and tend to remain intact. That’s why you often see Berber carpet in high-traffic areas and commercial buildings.

• Easy to clean: Spills tend to sit on the surface of the loops. This makes it easy to clean stains because they don’t have as much of a chance to penetrate and set in. Berber carpet with flecks of color does an excellent job disguising dirt and stains.

Cons of Berber Carpet

• Snags: If a loop gets caught, it can break and even tear out of the carpet’s backing. The most common snag culprits are vacuums, high heels and pet claws.

• Difficult to remove stains: While Berber carpets are easy to clean in general, they are not so easy to clean when stains do set into the fibers.

• Can get matted: Over time, the loops can look matted and worn. If that’s a concern, opt for a Berber carpet with small loops made out of nylon.

• Not very soft: Many (but not all) Berber carpets lack the soft feel underfoot that you get with pile carpet.

The post What to Know About Berber Carpet appeared first on Family Handyman.

Cheap DIY Flooring: Laminate Flooring

Laminate is one of the least expensive choices for residential flooring, because it’s been around for so long there are many different avenues to try. When it comes to cheap flooring ideas, laminate is a good choice for people who are hard on floors, so if you have children and pets, it’s a smart selection (Get to know about the best flooring for dogs). It’s also one of the hotter flooring options out there, make sure to check out the others. The new designs for laminate plank floors and laminate tiles have transformed into modern, on-trend designs. To make the choice easier take into account these ideas when choosing laminate flooring.

Bamboo Flooring

Bamboo has become one of the most popular choices for flooring because of its price and durability. This option is not only cheaper than hardwood, it’s tough and can withstand a lot of abuse. Another benefit to bamboo flooring is that the planks look similar to hardwood. Check out this guide for how to care for bamboo floors. Bamboo is also great for repurposing, like these old blinds.

Carpet Alternatives: Porcelain Tiles

If you want to try something other than vinyl, but still want something less expensive than wood, try porcelain tiles. Even if you don’t have any tile experience, you can tile a small room in a weekend and end up with a great looking, durable floor. We’ll show you how to save hundreds of dollars by installing the floor yourself. And if you lay the tile yourself the cost of the tile will be the biggest expense, making it an even better option when it comes to cheap flooring ideas. Looking for more alternatives? Get to know about popular tile rug trend.

Flooring Options: Cork Flooring

For those who are eco-friendly, cork flooring is a good option. Cork flooring is a natural, renewable product that’s easy to install yourself with basic tools. It’s also attractive, quiet under foot and easy to clean. Cork flooring is a great choice for basements, living rooms, offices and even the kitchen. Easy-to-cut cork tiles and a homemade cutting jig make this a hassle-free DIY project. Most of the time when we think about cork, we’ve got wine on the mind, so while we’re at it, check out the 23 most incredible ways to store wine.

Easy Cheap Flooring: Concrete

Design-wise, concrete has evolved over the past few years and is now incorporated into many aspects of a home, like this surprisingly elegant table or these more utilitarian designs with concrete blocks. Concrete floors and counter tops are just a couple of examples. This material is a versatile flooring option because it can be used in modern designs and in a rustic farm house. To ensure these floors last, take a look at these concrete finishing tips.

Carpet Squares

If you think installing carpet is time-consuming and complicated, think again. Modular carpet, aka carpet squares, is one of the easiest floor coverings to install and one of the easiest cheap flooring ideas. You simply lay the squares on the floor; adhesive strips and the carpet’s heavy backing hold them in place. You can finish most rooms in a day, if not an afternoon. And you can use it anywhere. You can add whimsy to a kids’ playroom, like the brilliantly cartoonish furniture Judson Beaumont creates, or create an elegant look in a formal dining room. A carpet pad isn’t required for this flooring option and they can be repositioned or removed at any time. For more help on how to properly place carpet squares use these tips.

DIY Flooring Ideas on a Budget: Plywood Planks

Construction-grade plywood was once only reserved for subfloors and sheathing, but now it’s making a splash as an affordable residential flooring. There are two ways you can go with this flooring option: Remove the existing flooring and refinish the plywood subfloor beneath, or install new plywood, cut into planks or any creative design you choose, on top of an existing subfloor. Whichever route you choose, if you take your time and apply a hardy topcoat such as polyurethane that will stand up to everyday foot traffic, you can create a stunning, one-of-a-kind floor. Plywood’s great for a variety of projects, like some of these incredible headboards you should add to your bedroom.

The world of plywood is vast and complicated but once you learn the grades you can find the right plywood for the job.

Cheap DIY Flooring Ideas: Peel and Stick Tiles

Peel and stick vinyl tiles are one of the most inexpensive flooring options for homeowners. And if you’re good at measuring and are comfortable using a utility knife, you’ll have no problem installing a basic vinyl tile floor. This flooring is virtually indestructible, is often waterproof and is easier to install than most other flooring materials. Because of these features, this flooring is perfect for a basement or a bathroom. However, the best part about this flooring is the infinite number of designs you can create once you learn a few special techniques. If something does happen to your vinyl tiles, like a stain, check out these tips for how to easily fix them.

Sheet Vinyl

For a really inexpensive and simple floor option, vinyl sheeting may be your best bet. When installing sheet vinyl there are a couple of steps you don’t want to forget including; making a template of the floor size and shape, and making sure the underlayment is level. For help deciding on the type of sheet vinyl you want, don’t miss these tips.

Update Existing Floors

If you’re lucky and already have wood floors to work with, there are ways to fix and update them without spending a lot of money. You will have to decipher whether a floor only needs a new coat of polyurethane or if it needs to be completely refinished.

When the damage to the floor is more extensive, this is when it needs to be sanded and have a new application of stain and top coat. Make sure you test a couple different stain colors on a small patch of the floor before committing. To learn how to fix scratches and nixes check out these ideas.

The post Cheap Flooring Ideas: 10 Best Low-Cost Alternatives to Hardwood Flooring appeared first on Family Handyman.

Rustic Lettered Flooring

We genuinely love this painted floor idea. The stenciled letters and numbers add a unique touch without taking away from the rustic feel of the space. While this type of flooring can be purchased as-is, DIYers can use the inspiration to create the look with paint and stencils.

Stenciled Sunroom

Redoing your sunroom? Get playful with an oversized flower pattern stenciled on your floor in muted hues. Complement the look with brightly colored furniture for a space that’s fun, yet cozy. Here’s a complete tutorial on how to build a screened-in patio.

Checkerboard Floor

How fun is this look? Go bold in the living room by painting your wood floor in a checkerboard pattern. Offset the black and white with a statement couch color like blush pink. Here, we’ll show you how to patch your hardwood floor.

Chevron Entryway

Keep it classy yet fun with a chevron painted entryway floor. It’s an inviting look that works in this small space. Ever wonder if higher priced paint is worth it? The answer is yes, and here’s why.

Illusion of Water

Give your basement a beautiful makeover by staining the concrete floor to a bold blue hue. The look is the illusion of water! It’s a fun way to reinvent a space that is often overlooked. Looking to paint your garage too? Here are some paint options you need to know about before you get started.

Sitting Room Faux Rug

If you’re worried about spills ruining a rug in your sitting room, then add this to your painted floor ideas!.The defined outline, contrast in colors and shape, along with the furniture strategically placed over the design, creates the illusion of a rug. Follow these painting tips and tricks to keep your next painting project neat and tidy.

Patterned Concrete Floor

Add an understated pattern to your list of painted floor ideas. Layer a natural-colored concrete floor with an elegant white stencil to create an airy look. Also, be sure to check out this DIY concrete crack repair.

Nautical Flooring

Skip the faux-rug and choose a painted floor design to serve as the focal point in your living room. How cool is this nautical star? It doesn’t attempt to resemble a rug, yet still adds warmth to the space.

Farmhouse Kitchen

This stunning pine floor is hand painted and stenciled, offering a Mediterranean feel to a rustic space. We love how the light floors bring an airiness to the kitchen. Here are the 10 best low-cost alternatives to hardwood flooring.

Stenciled Closet

This brilliant flooring made use of mirrors and random painted patterns to create a space that appears larger. According to the designer,

“The client did not wish to extend the marble flooring into the closet but instead designed it as a distinct personalized room. Since the walls were enveloped with mirrored custom cabinetry, the best surface to create an impact was the decorative artistry/faux finish on the floors. The stencil design was inspired by the spherical bathroom light fixtures. Since it would be reflected by all of the mirrors, we chose to keep the painted pattern random which allowed the space to appear even larger.”

Painted Brick Patio Floor

Get creative on your patio by painting brick shapes in varying, bright colors. It will make for an inviting, funky space to spend your time outdoors. Here’s how to raise sunken patio pavers.

Whitewashed Wood

For your painted floor ideas, consider a rustic look, like this whitewashed floor. A whitewashed floor has a relaxed vibe. Add some fresh, modern furniture and gold accessories to complete the look. Want to learn how to whitewash wood? Here’s everything you need to know.

By the way, here are 10 things you should never do to your wood floor.

The post 12 Painted Floor Ideas to Inspire Your Next DIY Project appeared first on Family Handyman.

Remove the Base Shoe

Pet Stains Are Forever

Floor Sanding Machine Rental Tips

Prep the Room

Good Sander Choice: How to Use a Drum Sander

Hardwood Floor Sanding Equipment: Change Belts Often

Edger Education

Scrape Out Corners

How to Use a Drum Sander: Don't Skip Grits

Clean Up Between Grits

Screen the Floor

Swing the Buffer

Consider Recoating Instead of Sanding

The post Flawless Floor Sanding appeared first on Family Handyman.

Patterns in Wood Flooring

Wood flooring has long been a popular choice for kitchens as it is long-lasting and works in a number of decor styles. If you’re looking for trending kitchen flooring options in wood flooring, try patterns. “Specifically, we are seeing an increase of chevron or herringbone pattern designs in homeowners kitchens, bathrooms and more,” according to Sebring Design Build, a Chicago-area based design-build-remodeling company.

Pros: Hardwood kitchen flooring is easier to repair than tile.

Cons: Hardwood flooring can show wear and tear in heavy traffic areas over time.

Cork

When it comes to interesting kitchen flooring ideas, cork is a popular natural option with a different texture than any other flooring material. One of the most unique types of kitchen flooring, cork is durable, soft underfoot and is a great heat insulator and sound barrier, notes Decor Magazine. “It’s also friendlier to the planet than man-made materials like vinyl, so if you are creating a space which is environmentally conscious, cork is an affordable and less impactful kitchen flooring material,” according to the magazine.

Pros: Since cork is soft, it’s a great flooring option for those who stand for long periods of time. It’s also easy to install, maintain and has antimicrobial properties.

Cons: Cork stains easily and is prone to fading.

Luxury Vinyl

This isn’t your grandma’s vinyl floor! Today, luxury vinyl as it’s often called, comes in a variety of budget-friendly choices so there’s no wonder it’s gaining popularity in today’s kitchens. Vinyl can look like stone or ceramic tile, plank hardwood and even fun patterns and colors.

“While laminate has been a top alternative to hardwood, vinyl has added more details, colors, and functionality to make it a competitor in the wood look category. You can definitely expect to see more home use vinyl flooring throughout 2019 to achieve a more affordable yet modern design,” according to Empire Today, a national flooring company.

Pros: Vinyl flooring offers a variety of color options, making it a top choice for a custom look. It’s also moisture resistant, less expensive than most tile and hardwood, and it’s easy to maintain.

Cons: Vinyl can fade over time. It is also non-biodegradable.

Black and White Tile

The color combination of black with white never goes out of style. When it comes to trending kitchen flooring ideas, try black and white tiles installed in checkerboard pattern, go for a bold look with tiles in a geometric pattern or choose individual tiles that have a black and white pattern.

“More and more homeowners want a unique twist to the vintage flooring style. This includes smaller tiles with bolder graphic patterns. This perfectly blends vintage with contemporary for the perfect look and feel,” according to Sebring Design Build.

Pros: Tile is durable and water resistant. Black and white tile offers a timeless look that is easy to maintain.

Cons: Tile can be costly to install. If you go for a bold, graphic pattern, you may get tired of the look over time.

Concrete

“Contemporary and completely durable, concrete kitchen flooring will easily withstand the highest traffic and activity, perfect if you need kitchen flooring ideas for a busy kitchen,” notes Decor Magazine. Concrete can also be polished and stained to give it a custom look. It also pairs well with natural elements such as wood and metal, and blends well with trending hygge design styles.

Pros: Concrete is easy to clean and durable.

Cons: Concrete flooring can be cold, unless a heated flooring system is installed underneath. In addition, if it isn’t sealed properly, moisture and mold can become a problem. Concrete can also crack over time.

The post 5 Kitchen Flooring Ideas That are Trending Right Now appeared first on Family Handyman.

While you’re at it, also check out these fantastic options for home gym paint colors.

What is the Best Floor for a Home Gym?

Well, that depends on what surface the flooring is going over and what kind of exercise equipment and routines you partake in. According to Men’s Health, it’s critical that all gym flooring surfaces are durable, have proper traction and have impact shock absorption. Otherwise, you run the risk of slipping, injuring yourself or incurring chronic joint pain. This buyer’s guide will help you figure out what the best home gym flooring is for your home.

Rubber Flooring

Rubber is the ultimate home gym flooring option because it’s great for covering any surface, including hard concrete floors, and can support even the heaviest exercise equipment. Rubber is popular for home gym flooring because it offers maximum durability and shock absorbency.

You can buy rubber flooring in rolls, mats or interlocking tiles in different thicknesses and sizes on Amazon. American Floor Mats has 4-foot x 6-foot rubber rolls for less than $100. Those looking to cover a larger area can check out RevTime’s 8-foot x 6-foot rubber floor mat for around $150. For interlocking rubber tiles, consider IncStores 23-inch x 23-inch interlocking tiles made from recycled rubber at $70 for four tiles.

Foam Flooring

Foam home gym flooring is like having exercise mats laid out all over the floor. Foam floor tiles interlock for easy installation and are portable. They offer comfort for floor exercises like yoga and Pilates. Foam is a lot cheaper than rubber, at $1 to $4 per square foot, but its also a lot less durable. It generally isn’t suitable for heavy equipment, super-intense workouts or to be placed over hard surfaces like concrete.

Amazon has all sorts of different options that come in a range of sizes and thicknesses, from colorful foam tiles, foam tiles that look like wood, and foam tiles that are topped with rubber, for extra durability.

Vinyl Flooring

Vinyl flooring is another great option for home gym flooring. It’s water resistant, easy to clean and helps your gym blend nicely into your living space. Rubber Flooring Inc. touts vinyl flooring as the best option for a garage or basement gym.

One reason for choosing vinyl for garage and basement gym flooring is because it’s mold, mildew and moisture resistant. It’s also extremely durable and can handle the weight of your heavy gym equipment. However, vinyl isn’t the greatest when it comes to shock absorption.

Amazon sells vinyl mats that are great for placing under heavy equipment like a treadmill. This GOPLUS PVC Vinyl mat is 6-1/2-feet x 3 feet and costs less than $40. Or, you can grab a 40-pack of 6-inch x 36-inch self-adhesive vinyl floor planks by Achim Home Furnishings for around $70 if you need to cover a larger area. They also sell 12-inch x 12-inch self-adhesive vinyl floor tiles that look like wood and are $11 for 20 vinyl tiles.

Carpet

Carpet is also popular for home gym flooring. You can have wall-to-wall carpet installed or use carpet tiles for easy DIY installation. Just make sure you select low, commercial-grade pile for good traction and stability.

Carpet can seamlessly blend in with your home decor and will likely support the weight of your exercise machinery. Most carpet, however, tends to trap sweat and moisture, and has low-shock absorption, though carpet pads can help. Anti-fatigue carpet tiles that have higher shock absorbency, too. A 20-pack of self-adhesive Nispora heavy-duty 20-inch x 20-inch carpet tiles sells for $70.

Cork Flooring

Cork flooring offers high shock absorbency and support through intense workouts. It’s also an eco-friendly option that’s resistant to fire, mold, mites and mildew, making cork flooring a good choice for basements. That, plus the fact that cork is prone to fading in direct sunlight, makes a floating cork floor a fine choice for home gyms in the basement or garage, especially.

If you need your flooring to support heavy machinery or free weights, try doubling up with glue-down cork tiles on top of a floating cork floor, or choose another flooring style.

The post The 5 Best Home Gym Flooring Ideas appeared first on Family Handyman.

Opting for the cleaning power of steam rather than harsh chemicals on your floor seems like an environmentally friendly choice. But, using steam mops on some floors can do more harm than good. So how do you decide where to use a steam mop and where to avoid it?

Here’s the low-down on whether or not to use a steam mop for cleaning floors.

Why Use the Power of Steam?

Used correctly, steam cleaning is a natural and effective way to remove stubborn dirt and stains. Once the water reaches 175 degrees F, it will sanitize surfaces effectively. Many home cleaners reach up to 245 degrees F.

There are other advantages to using the power of steam for cleaning, too. For example, steam cleaning your oven avoids exposure to potentially hazardous chemicals found in some oven cleaning products. Steam cleaning your grill gates also cuts down on the need for elbow grease. But when it comes to your floors, a steam mop isn’t always the best choice.

Which Flooring Is Safe for Steam-cleaning?

Steam mops work by producing steam under pressure and ‘forcing’ it into cracks and crevices that might get missed with other cleaning methods. Flooring that has gaps or cracks (however small) is vulnerable to damage, and materials like vinyl might warp with the heat.

So, steam mops should only be used on flooring that has no such gaps and isn’t likely to warp in high temperatures. Steam cleaning works great on ceramic tile floors

Which Flooring Could Be Damaged by Steam-cleaning?

Some manufacturers claim that sealed floors won’t be damaged by using a steam mop if it’s used at low or medium pressure. But, most experts don’t recommend steam mops for wooden or laminate flooring, or for surfaces with potential gaps such as vinyl tiles or vinyl planking. A hardwood floor may have small cracks that are invisible to the naked eye. Forcing steam into gaps and cracks can cause irreparable damage such as swelling, warping, delamination, and joint-line separation. In many cases, you’ll void your warranty if you steam-clean a wooden floor or vinyl tiles.

Learn how to clean vinyl floors the right way.

Using steam or other liquid cleaning methods can also cause a build-up of mold and mildew, perhaps leading to a musty smell as well as damage. Even engineered wood floors can be affected by using a steam mop.

How Should I Care For My Floors?

The National Wood Flooring Association recommends you mop up spills from your floor immediately to avoid damage and potential accidents. Wooden floors can be vacuumed regularly or cleaned with a barely damp mop, giving it a good clean with proprietary wood floor cleaner once a month. After five years, you may need to re-coat your floor with another layer of your original finish to keep it pristine.

Next, learn the proper steps for how to clean laminate floors.

The post Here’s Why You Need to Stop Steam Mopping Floors appeared first on Family Handyman.

Keep it Simple

If you have a dramatic room—say one with vaulted ceilings—keep trim simple and let the space shine. While crown molding is still a popular look, avoid it in these types of rooms as it may make the space look too busy.

Think in Threes

Try using three different pieces of trim to pull a room together. This popular look features base trim, a chair rail and some wainscoting for a clean, sleek look in the bathroom.

Paint Colors With Wood Trim: Mix Dark with Light

Dark wood trim is everywhere. If you have dark wood for trim, keep paint colors light. A dark color mixed with a deep wood trim may make the room feel heavy and gloomy.

Try Thin

When it comes to trim around windows and doorways, go thin. Thick trim may overpower the space, while thinner trim will make the space look clean and fresh.

Add a Picture Rail

Picture rails are getting an update. This type of trim allows you to hang artwork without creating holes and damaging the wall.

Add Cabinet Trim

Trim can add some character to otherwise boring kitchen cabinets. Try some large crown molding on top of cabinets to bring new life to a tired kitchen.

Go Gray

Move over white—gray is becoming the go-to color for exterior trim. Try mixing a deep charcoal gray with blues and blacks for a modern look.

Simple Baseboards

When it comes to trim along the baseboard, it’s still best to keep it simple. A modest, white baseboard is a timeless floor trim idea. Most baseboards are 3 to 5 inches high and white or ivory is still the go-to painted trim color for most homes.

Try Cove

If you’re looking to update your living or dining room, try cove trim and then add some lighting. Cove trim is placed where the ceiling meets the wall and comes in a variety of styles.

Go Bold

When it comes to exterior trim, think bold if you’re planning a color update. Instead of white trim, try black or even a dark stained trim for a Prairie-style aesthetic.

The post 10 New Trends in Wood Trim appeared first on Family Handyman.

Radiant Heat: Overview

This in-floor heating system consists of one thin continuous cable heating element woven into a mat that you install under the tile.

These heated floors are a project best done when overhauling or changing the floor covering of an existing room, or when adding a new room. Heated flooring can be installed as supplemental heat to take the chill out of the floor, or as space heat to warm the entire bathroom. Heated flooring is also a great winter diy home project for warming entryway and kitchen floors.

The benefits of heated floors:

• It’s easy to install. You embed a cable-laced mat in the mortar when you lay the tile. If you’re not comfortable with the wiring portion, hire an electrician.
• It’s safe. Once the in-floor heating system is installed, it’s nearly impossible to damage. The GFCI-protected thermostat instantly cuts power in the event of a short or other problem.
• It’s inexpensive. At 12 watts per square foot, our 30-sq.-ft. heated bath mat drew 360 watts of power — about the equivalent of an electric blanket or large TV.
• It takes up zero space. Got a big, clunky radiator? Remove it and gain valuable square footage by installing this stuff.
• It’s versatile. If your existing furnace or boiler lacks the oomph to heat a newly remodeled or added space, an in-floor heating system can do the job.
• It’s really, really comfortable. When your feet are warm, your entire body feels warm. You’ll find yourself reading and playing games with your kids on the bathroom floor.

Special-order your custom-size mat

Various companies offer electric resistance floor warming systems. Standard sizes are available at home centers and tile stores. You can also special order custom sizes and shapes by sending a detailed drawing of the bathroom floor plan and location of fixtures.

The mats come in 12-, 24- and 30- in. widths and increments of five feet in length (10 sq. ft. minimum). When in doubt, the supplier will specify a mat smaller than you need since the mat cable can’t be cut.

Find Electrical Power

• For a heated floor area less than 20 sq. ft., you could (in most cases) draw power from an adjacent GFCI-protected outlet without overloading the circuit. (If the thermostat you purchase is already GFCI protected, like ours, you can use any outlet. In any case, the floor heating pad must be GFCI protected.) But a larger mat on an existing circuit that might accommodate a 2,000-watt hairdryer can cause overloads and nuisance circuit breaker trips. For our larger mat, we installed a dedicated circuit with its own wiring and circuit breaker. Both 120-volt and 240-volt mats are available.
• A programmable thermostat that turns the mat on during busy times, then off when you’re sleeping or away, costs more initially but will save energy and money in the long run.

Test the Mat for Continuity

• Test the heating cable for manufacturing or shipping damage with a volt-ohm meter. The resistance reading on the mat label and the resistance registered by the meter should be within 10 percent of each other. If not, see the manufacturer’s instructions. Digital volt-ohm meters like the one shown are inexpensive and are easy to operate.

Add Cement Board to the Subfloor

• Prep your floor as you would for any tiling job. Install 1/2-in. cement backer board, securing it to the existing subfloor with mortar and cement board screws. Make sure no screw or nailheads protrude above the cement board; a sharp edge can damage the cable. Tape and mortar the seams to create a solid, continuous surface. Snap tile layout lines on the floor once the mortar has dried.

Electric vs. Hydronic Radiant Heat Systems

Notch for the Wires

• Following your preliminary layout, mark the path of the thick “power lead” between the mat and wall cavity and chisel a shallow trench into the floor. Notch the bottom plate to accommodate the two conduits that will contain the power lead and the wires for the thermostat-sensing bulb.

Test Fit the Mat

• Test fit the mat, keeping the cable four inches from fixtures and walls and two inches from one another. Give priority to those areas where you’ll stand barefoot the most. You must not cut or cross the cable, so make sure the mat fits.
• Before proceeding with the installation, do a test layout. Follow these basic guidelines:
  • Install the mat up to the area where the vanity cabinet or pedestal sink will sit, but not under it; that can cause excessive heat buildup.
  • Keep the mat four inches away from walls, showers, and tubs.
  • Keep the mat at least four inches away from the toilet wax ring.
  • Keep the blue heating cable at least two inches away from itself (Photo 5). Never overlap the cable.
  • Don’t leave large gaps between the mats. Your feet will tell!
  • If your mat is undersized, give priority to the areas where you’ll be standing barefoot most often.

Tape the Mat to the Floor

• Install the mat, securing it lightly to the cement board with double-face tape. To make turns, cut the mat between two loops in the cable, then flip the mat and run it in the opposite direction. Never cut, nick or stress the cable itself. Where the full-width mat won’t fit, or where you encounter angles or jogs, carefully cut the mat from around the cable and hot-melt glue the cable to the floor. Continue using the full mat again when you can.

Glue Loose Wires to the Floor

• Secure individual removed cables to the floor using small blobs of hot-melt glue. Carefully cut and remove the orange mesh to free the cable. Do this to work around angles, obstacles and sections where full-width mats won’t fit. Do not overlap the cable. When the entire mat is fitted and installed, press it firmly into the tape and hot-melt glue any loose ends or humps in the mat. Perform a resistance test to check for damage.
• If you’re not going to tile right away, lay thick corrugated cardboard over the mat to protect the cable. You’ll be glad you did when your kid walks in wearing baseball cleats.

Wiring

• Install conduit connectors to both ends of two pieces of 58-inch long, 1/2-in. electrical metal tubing (EMT). Fish the power lead cable through one length of the conduit. Hot-melt glue the power lead into the groove. Fish the thermostat wires through the second piece of conduit, then weave it 12 inches into the mat, keeping it equidistant from the cable on each side.
• Secure the two lengths of conduit to a 4 x 4-in. metal electrical box. Secure this box to the studs so the lower ends of the conduits nestle into the notches you made in the bottom plate. Secure metal protective plates over the notches in the bottom plate to protect the wires and cable where they pass through.
• Install the wiring from the area of the main circuit breaker panel (or nearby outlet) to the area of the wall cavity where the thermostat will be located. Don’t do any actual wiring in the main panel yet.

Spread the Mortar

• Apply the mortar, first pressing it firmly into the mesh and floor with the flat side of the trowel, then combine it with the notched side. Try to “float” the trowel just above the cable. Use care not to snag the mesh or nick the cable.

Place the Tiles

• Lay the tile using the chalked lines as your guide. Wiggle and tap the tiles firmly into place to create a level surface. Read just previously laid tiles so they remain in line and properly spaced; the thick mortar bed used to cover the cable and mesh allows for more movement than a standard tile installation. Grout the tile once the thin-set has properly set.
• Place the tile, then tap it firmly into place with a rubber mallet. Do two resistance tests while installing the tile to ensure you haven’t damaged the cable. (If the resistance test fails, see the manufacturer’s instructions to find the problem.) Once the mortar has dried, grout the joints.

Finish the Wiring

• Wire the thermostat according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Our thermostat had individual pigtails for securing the wires from the power lead and the cable running from the main panel. Have your electrician make the final connections in the main circuit panel.
• Power up the system for 10 or 15 minutes to ensure that the floor heat functions, then turn it off and keep it off for two to four weeks while the mastic and grout cure and harden.

Still looking for ways to keep your bathroom warm? Learn more about bathroom fireplaces and bathroom heat lamps. Also, check out these bathroom heaters.

The post How to Install In-Floor Radiant Heat appeared first on Family Handyman.

Estimating the Cost of a Tile Project

The tile itself will be your biggest cost, so start by measuring the square footage of the floor. Then add 10 percent for cutting waste. If you choose a more complex layout than the simple grid pattern we used, your waste will be greater.

Most tile sells for $5 to $15 per square foot, but you can spend as little as $3 or more than $50. If you have to install a backer board, add $2 per square foot to the cost of the tile. Other materials will cost about $90, regardless of the bathroom size. The tile removal tools you’ll need (including a tile cutter) will total $60 to $80.

Assess Your Floor

The success of any tile job depends on a solid base — a floor that flexes very little as you walk across it. If you have a concrete subfloor, this isn’t an issue. You can lay tile directly over the existing vinyl as long as it’s well-adhered.

If possible, avoid tearing out vinyl flooring. Leaving it in place saves time, of course, but it also reduces asbestos hazard concerns. Asbestos was used in sheet vinyl and vinyl tile until the mid-1980s. By leaving the vinyl undisturbed, you won’t risk sending asbestos fibers into the air.

If you have a wood subfloor, there’s a good chance you’ll have to install a backer board over your vinyl to make the floor thicker and stiff enough for tile. The easiest way to see flooring thickness is to pull off a floor register. Otherwise, look for plumbing passageways through the floor. As a last resort, drill through the floor with a one-inch or larger spade bit (your new floor will cover the hole later).

To prevent asbestos dust from becoming airborne, mist the bit with a spray bottle as you drill. In addition to floor thickness, you’ll need to determine joist spacing. If there’s an unfinished basement or crawlspace below the floor, simply measure the spacing. If there’s a ceiling, probe for joists with a drill bit.

If the joists are spaced 16 inches apart, the layers of structural flooring beneath the vinyl should add up to at least 1-1/8-in. With joists every 24 inches, you need 1-1/2-in. If your floor is too thin for tile, add a thicker layer of tile backer board. Our floor required 1/4-in.-thick backer. Yours might need 1/2-in. backer to reach the minimum thickness.

If your floor is already thick enough, you can simply prep the vinyl floor (Photos 1 – 4) and skip the backer installation (Photos 5 – 8). Then tile directly over the vinyl, following the same steps we used over the backer board.

Regardless of the type of subfloor, there are two situations where you can’t leave vinyl in place.

First, if large areas of the vinyl are loose, don’t set tile or backer over it. Small loose spots are acceptable and easy to deal with (Photo 4).

Second, “cushioned” sheet vinyl must be removed before you can set tile. Cushioned vinyl has a foam backing that makes it noticeably thicker and softer than standard vinyl flooring. It’s too spongy to support tile or backer board. Before removing it, call your local health department for instructions on how to check for asbestos and proper procedures if asbestos is present.

Gather Advice While You Shop

Home centers carry everything you need for this project, but begin shopping at a tile store, where you’re more likely to get expert advice on how to lay tile.

Make a quick sketch of your floor plan and jot down all the dimensions. Also, take a photo of the floor at the doorway. This will help the tile store staff recommend a “transition” to neatly join the tile to the hallway flooring. Transitions come in different styles to suit any situation.

When you choose the tile itself, ask if it requires any special installation steps. Some tile should be coated with grout release before grouting. Also, ask about cutting techniques for the tile. You’ll use sanded grout for the floor. Ask if sanded caulk is available in a color that matches your grout for the floor/tub and floor/wall tile joints.

• • Pro tip: When learning how to install tile, understand that cement products like thin-set and grout draw moisture from the skin and can even cause burns that require medical attention. While most pros work bare-handed, wear gloves if you have any special sensitivity. Also, wear eye protection while mixing thin-set and grout.

Prep the Floor

• First, get the toilet out of your way. Stuff a rag in the hole to block sewer gases. If your home only has one toilet, you can leave it in place until you install the backer board. Keep a supply of wax rings on hand if you plan to reinstall the toilet at the end of each day.
• If you expect to keep your vanity for many years to come, leave it in place and tile around it. But if you think you might replace it, remove it now. When the job’s done, you can reinstall the old vanity or put in a new one. Having the vanity out of the way gives you more workspace, and you won’t have to cut backer board and tiles to fit around it. This also eliminates the floor tiling repair problem if you install a smaller vanity or pedestal sink in the future.
• Pull off the baseboard or plan to add base shoe molding. This leads to a neater-looking job because the edges of the tile will be covered later — jagged cuts and slight measuring mistakes are hidden. If your baseboard has base shoe molding, remove only the base shoe. The backer board and tile will raise your floor 3/4-in. or more, so you’ll have to remove and undercut the door. To mark the door for cutting, stack backer board, tile and two layers of cardboard on the floor (see Photo 3). Mark the door 1/2-in. above the stack, remove the door and cut off the bottom.

Scrub the Floor with Stripper

• Using an abrasive pad, scrub the floor hard with water mixed with vinyl floor stripper following the manufacturer’s instructions. The stripper will dissolve wax and other residue. Scrub hard with an abrasive scouring pad (Photo 1). The tiny scratches left by scrubbing help the thin-set bond better.

Drive Screws into the Floor Joists

• Mark the floor joists with chalk lines and drive 2-1/2-in. screws every eight inches through the floor into the joists (Photo 2). This ensures that the subfloor and underlayment are securely fastened. Don’t leave any screw heads protruding.
• If there’s an unfinished basement below the floor, locating the joists is easy: Go to the basement and drill a couple of 1/4-in. holes up through the floor next to a joist.
• If you can’t locate the joists from below, pick a spot near one wall and drill a hole. If the bit breaks through into hollow space, move over one inch and drill another hole. Keep going until you hit a joist.
• Then go to the opposite wall and find the other end of the joist. Measure at intervals of 16 or 24 inches from the first joist to locate the others.

Cut the Door Casing

• Undercut door trim using a jamb saw or handsaw. Stack a piece of backer board, tile and two layers of cardboard raise the saw to the correct height above the floor. (Photo 3)

Fill Low Spots with Thin-Set

• Look for any spots where the vinyl has loosened from the floor. Cut out loose spots and fill the void with a thin-set using the flat edge of a notched trowel. (Photo 4).
• If there are any copper pipes that pass through the floor, wrap them with duct tape at floor level. Cement-based thin-set and grout can corrode copper.

Install Backer Board

• Cover the entire floor with a backer board.  Use a drywall saw to cut inside corners, circles and curves. Space pieces 1/8-in. apart and hold each one in place with two temporary screws. (Photo 5)
• Make straight cuts with a scoring knife. Make three or four scoring passes, then snap the backer over a 2×4. (Photo 6) When all the pieces have been laid out, label them and set them aside.

Trowel on the Thin-Set

• The backer board is fastened with a combination of screws and a thin-set adhesive. Cut and layout all the pieces before you mix the thin-set (Photos 5 and 6). You can run the sheets in any direction, but be sure to stagger the joints so you never have four corners meeting at one point. Leave a 1/8-in. space between the sheets and along with the vanity, tub or shower. The gap along walls must be at least 1/8-in. wide, but a wider gap (about 1/2-in.) makes the panels easier to set in place.
• After cutting and fitting, label the location of each one and set them all aside. Vacuum the floor and have your drill and screws ready to go before you mix the thin-set.
• Use a 1/4-in. notched trowel held at a 45-degree angle to spread the thin-set over the floor. Comb in one direction so air can escape when you embed the backer (Photo 7). Drive screws every six inches around the perimeter of each piece and every eight inches “in the field” (across the face of the panel).

Cover the Joints

• First, press adhesive-backed mesh tape over the joints and skim over the tape with thin-set. When the thin-set is firm but not fully hardened, scrape away any ridges with a putty knife. (Photo 8)
• If the thin-set has become too stiff or chunky, mix a new batch. Use “alkali-resistant” tape that’s meant for the backer board. While the tape coat of thin-set hardens, run a putty knife over all the screw heads to scrape off the “mushroom” bulges around screws. Drive-in any protruding screw heads you come across.

Tile Layout

• Dry-lay tile to determine the best layout. Start with centered rows, leaving equal spaces at walls. Then reposition rows until you find the optimal layout.
• To begin, center rows of tile between walls so you have equal spaces along walls that face each other (Photo 9). Set the two rows parallel to the two most prominent walls. Then make adjustments, trying to achieve these three goals:
  • Use full tiles at doorways and along with the bathtub or shower.
  • Avoid narrow tiles along walls. Ideally, you’ll end up with tiles cut to half size or larger. Avoid cutting tile to widths less than two inches.
  • Minimize cutting and try to avoid difficult cuts. For example: Cutting tile to an L-shape to fit around an outside corner is especially difficult when one arm of the “L” is less than two inches wide. The arm tends to break off as you cut.

Attach Guide Boards

• Screw guide boards to the floor following your chosen layout. Position the guides so you can lay all the field tiles without moving the guides. Make sure the guides are at right angles by measuring out a 3-4-5 triangle. (Photo 10)

Set the Tile

• It’s usually easiest — and most efficient — to set tile in two phases. First, set all the full “field” tiles (Photo 11). Then, when the thin-set has hardened for several hours, cut all the perimeter tiles and set them (Photo 12). Here are some tips for both phases of the job:
  • The trowel for setting the tile may be different from the one you used to embed the backer. The thin-set label tells you which notch size to use relative to tile size.
  • Dampen the backer with a sponge just before applying the thin-set. This keeps the thin-set from drying out too quickly.
  • Comb the thin-set in one direction so air pockets won’t be trapped under tile.
  • Open three or four cartons and mix the tiles as you set them. Pattern and color vary slightly from one carton to the next.
  • Don’t just set each tile into place. Press down on the tile and wiggle it to embed it firmly in the thin-set.
  • Watch for “tipped” corners. When you press a tile in place, it’s easy to tilt it slightly so that one corner stands higher or lower than neighboring tiles.
  • When you complete a section of tile, inspect it before moving on. Make sure the tiles line up correctly and spacers are in place. Wipe any thin-set off the face of tiles with a damp sponge.
  • When the thin-set becomes chunky or too stiff, throw it away and mix more. Never try to extend the life of thin-set or grout by adding water.
• Comb out a few square feet of thin-set and set tile against the guides. Continue until all the full tiles are in place.
• Keep the gaps between tiles even by using spacers.
  • Pro tip: Watch for squeeze-out between tiles and rake it out with tile spacers.

Set the Perimeter Tiles

• Cut and set the perimeter tiles after the thin-set beneath the full tiles has hardened. In spaces too narrow for your trowel, comb thin-set onto the backs of tiles. (Photo 12)
• Cut perimeter tile so that caulked joints (at tub) are the same width as grouted joints.

Before You Start to Grout

Install an extension ring over the toilet flange

• When all the tiles are in place and the thin-set has hardened, remove all the spacers. Next, raise the toilet flange by adding an extension ring or two (Photo 13). The extended flange should be flush with or higher than the surrounding tile.
• Remove the old screws from the toilet flange and apply a heavy bead of silicone caulk. Fasten the extension ring over the old flange with stainless steel or brass screws.
• When you grout, fill in between the flange and tile. That way, any future leak around the flange will show up on the bathroom floor instead of on the ceiling below. If you plan to use a glue-down transition as we did, this is the time to install it.

Install the Transition Strip

• First, we removed the old metal strip that covered the carpet’s edge. Then we cut our transition strip to fit between the door jambs using a miter saw. Next, we added a tack strip to hold the carpet in place. Before we could glue the transition to the floor (Photo 14), we had to remove a thin strip of the old vinyl floor.
• Glue the transition into place with construction adhesive.

Stuff Backer Rod Along the Wall

• Push backer rod into joints that will be caulked later. The foam rod keeps grout out of joints. After grouting, pull out the rod and caulk the joints. (Photo 15)

Grout the Joints

• To start, plop a couple of scoops of grout onto the floor in a corner and work the grout into joints (Photo 16).
• Work the grout back and forth across the floor, diagonal to the joints and holding the float at a 45-degree angle. Then scrape off the excess grout, holding the float almost upright.
• In addition:
  • Mix the grout to a mashed-potatoes consistency. Adding extra liquid makes grout easier to work with but weakens it.
  • Don’t just spread the grout over the joints; press hard to pack it into the joints. If you’re doing it right, your forearm will get a good workout.
  • Whether you’re filling joints or scraping off excess grout, always push the float diagonally across the tiles.
  • Scrape off the excess to leave tile as clean as you can. The less grout you leave on the tiles, the easier cleanup will be.
  • When you’re done, cover the grout bucket with a plastic bag and set it in a cool place to slow the hardening process. During cleanup, you may find spots that need a little extra.

Grout Cleanup

• Wipe grout off the tile surface with a damp sponge. Wipe gently on the first pass so you don’t pull grout out of the joints. Rinse the sponge often.
• Clean the surface of the tile when the grout is stiff enough to stay put in the joints but still soft enough to wipe off the tile surface. During hot, dry weather, grout can become difficult to wipe away in just 10 minutes, so get ready for cleanup before you even mix the grout. You’ll need two buckets of clean water, two sponges, a synthetic scouring pad and a dry rag.
• As soon as you’re done grouting, go to the first section you grouted and wipe across a joint with a damp sponge. If the sponge pulls grout out of the joint, wait five minutes and try again. In cool, damp weather, the grout may stay too soft for an hour. When the grout is hard enough, gently wipe the tile with a damp sponge.
• Rinse the sponge frequently as you wipe the entire floor (Photo 17). If you come across tough spots, scrub them with the scouring pad. Be careful where you put your feet and knees — don’t mar your perfect grout joints.
• Immediately after the first pass, grab the second bucket of clean water and the fresh sponge and make a second, more thorough pass. Then, as the tile surface dries, wipe it with a dry terry cloth. The dry haze should buff off easily. If not, go for fresh water and sponge the floor again. If you can’t get rid of the haze, don’t panic. Products that remove haze are available wherever tile is sold.
• Let the grout cure overnight before you caulk joints, set the toilet or reinstall the baseboard. Grout sealer is a good precaution against staining: Some products can be applied 24 hours after grouting; others require a two- to three-week wait. If you have leftover tile or grout, keep them in case you have to make repairs in the future. Be sure to write down the brand, color and retailer of the tile.

Tile Cutting Tools

• Here are the tools that can cut your tile. Buy or rent the ones that make the most sense for your project.
• In addition to the tools shown here, a carbide abrasive blade that fits in a jigsaw cuts slowly but leaves fairly clean cuts in softer types of ceramic tile and natural stone. A carbide abrasive hole saw cuts perfect holes for plumbing pipes and fixtures.

Tile Cutter

• A tile cutter is the fastest way to cut tile. Just push the handle forward and a small wheel scores the tile. Then push the handle down and the tile snaps in two. You can’t beat a tile cutter for convenience. It makes no mess and you can drag it around the room as you work. But a tile cutter has zero versatility. It makes straight cuts across the entire tile — no curves or corner cuts. Cutting one inch or less off a tile can be difficult or impossible. You can rent one at rental centers and some tile shops.

Wet saw

• A wet saw cuts with a diamond blade while the water cools the blade and eliminates dust. You can cut notches, trim off tiny slivers of tile, cut miters and even make curves. You’ll get clean cuts in any type of tile. But wet saws are messy. They spit water and raise a cloud of gritty mist. If you use one indoors, contain the mist with curtains of plastic film and cover nearby surfaces. You can buy a small wet saw like the one shown here or rent a professional model from a tile store or home or rental center. If you only have a few cuts that require a wet saw, call a tile store. Many make cuts for a small fee.

Angle Grinder

• An angle grinder equipped with a diamond blade can make straight cuts, curves and notches in any type of tile. Since all your cuts are freehand, this isn’t a precision tool, but you can grind away imperfections with the tip of the blade. Only use a grinder outside. Wear a dust mask and eye protection.

Nippers

• Nippers are useful for rough curves and notches. They don’t cut tile but bite out small chunks, leaving jagged edges.

Contour Gauge

• A contour gauge is a great tool for marking troublesome shapes on tile. Just press it against any odd-shaped surface (like the curved corner of a bathtub) and transfer the profile to the tile.

The post How to Tile a Bathroom Floor appeared first on Family Handyman.

Don’t Wear Shoes

Wearing shoes on your hardwood floor, especially high heels, is just asking for scuffs and scratches. In addition, moisture and dirt from your shoes can seep into your flooring and cause further damage. Build this off-the-floor shoe organizer to install near your door.

Don’t Let Your Pets’ Nails Get Too Long

Keeping your dog or cat from ever walking on your hardwood floor is an impossible task. However, to ensure that their feet do as little damage to your floor as possible, it is a good idea to trim their nails often. Your floor (and your pets) will appreciate it!

Don’t Go Without Furniture Pads

Of course you’ll need to furnish your rooms regardless of the flooring, but be sure to invest in some small pads for the bottom of your table and chair legs. Moving your furniture around, and even accidentally nudging them here and there, can cause serious scuffing and even gouges.

If your floor does get damaged, you may not have to replace the whole thing. Here, we’ll show you how to patch your hardwood floor.

Don’t Use Harsh Cleaners

While it is important to clean your floors regularly, make sure to use only solutions designed specifically for wood flooring, and do not pour any cleaner directly onto your floor. Moisture damage can occur if the wood absorbs too much liquid. Instead, put a small amount of the cleaner onto your mop or cleaning pad first, then wipe it on your floor. These natural products are also great for getting your hardwood flooring spick-and-span.

Don’t Roll on Wheels

The hard plastic wheels on the bottom of your home office chair or rolling storage bench can scratch up your wood floor in no time. If you can’t replace the wheels with furniture feet and pads, add a rug or rubber mat under your wheeled pieces before you drag or push them around.

Don’t Steam Clean

You should never use a steamer on your hardwood flooring, as it can cause water damage and warping. Instead, dust your floor frequently with a microfiber pad and use only a slightly damp mop or cloth when necessary. Did you know a floor Swiffer is also great for cleaning your walls? Check it out!

Don’t Leave Furniture in the Same Spots

It’s time to switch up your furniture arrangements! If rugs or furniture are left in the same place for a really long time, your floor will become multicolored, especially in rooms with large windows. The sunlight will naturally cause your wood flooring to fade over time, except in the areas covered by rugs and furniture.

Don’t Use Vinegar

Many people believe that vinegar is the best choice for cleaning wood floors, as it is natural and works well for scrubbing most surfaces around the house. However, because vinegar is an acid it can actually wear away the protective finish on your hardwood flooring, causing it to look dull. It’s best to use cleaners designed specifically for wood flooring, not vinegar. Learn everything you need to know about installing hardwood flooring yourself here.

Don’t Burn It

Never put items on your floor that could burn the wood. Things such as candles, a curling iron, a hot plate or an old space heater could not only cause scorch marks on your beautiful wood floor, but they could ultimately start a fire. Always keep items that produce a lot of heat off of your wood flooring.

Don’t Forget to Refinish

Even if you don’t do any of these things to your wood floor, it will still show signs of wear over time. As you see fine scratches appear, it’s time to reapply the protective finish. This will smooth out any slight imperfections and give your floor a beautiful, new shine. Click here to learn how to refinish your hardwood flooring yourself.

The post 10 Things You Should Never Do to Your Wood Floor appeared first on Family Handyman.