Electrical Skills, Tips and Techniques | Family Handyman https://www.familyhandyman.com/skills/electrical/ Do it Yourself Home Improvement: Home Repair Tue, 29 Apr 2025 17:21:09 +0000 en-US hourly 6 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.4.2 https://www.familyhandyman.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/cropped-fhm-favicon.jpg?resize=32,32 Electrical Skills, Tips and Techniques | Family Handyman https://www.familyhandyman.com/skills/electrical/ 32 32 Tips for Installing and Working With PVC Conduit https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/install-pvc-conduit/ Tue, 17 Dec 2024 21:09:56 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=653402 Cheap, easy and lightweight: Is there anything PVC can't do?

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]]> What do you know about rigid polyvinyl chloride (PVC) conduit? I had almost no experience with it until I spent a brutal, windy Minnesota fall installing 4 in. PVC conduit underground at a new downtown Minneapolis bus station. It was fascinating. Up until that point, I had worked exclusively with metal conduit, so the experience was eye-opening.

I was an electrical apprentice at the time, and I learned a lot that year: hauling pipe, digging trenches, and even using a flame torch to bend plastic pipe. The job was on the site of an old bottling company, and while digging, I found an antique beer bottle from a brewery operating around 1910! Anyway, I also learned that you can use PVC at home, and I’ll give tips about this versatile, durable electrical conduit.

Types of PVC Conduit

The main designations of PVC electrical conduit are Schedule 40 and Schedule 80. (There’s also PVC plumbing pipe, but that’s an entirely different thing.) Here are the specifications for each:

  • Schedule 40: A thinner-walled conduit, Schedule 40 is used when there’s no chance of physical damage. It can be used above ground and underground in both indoor and outdoor locations.
  • Schedule 80: A heavier-walled, thicker conduit, Schedule 80 is used where physical damage is possible, such as emerging from grade. It can also be installed anywhere Schedule 40 is used, but it’s more expensive.

When to Use PVC Conduit

Use PVC conduit any place you need a weather-resistant, sturdy conduit that withstands corrosive environments. It’s lightweight, easy to handle, and cheaper than metal conduit. PVC is acceptable for underground use and in exposed locations. One caveat: It’s uglier than metal conduit, but if that’s not a dealbreaker, PVC is a versatile, durable wiring method.

Tips for Installing PVC Conduit

Ready to get started? Here are some key points to remember when installing PVC conduit.

Use Primer

Electricians often debate whether to use a primer before applying PVC cement. I’ve always done it, and many inspectors want to see the tell-tale purple residue on the pipe. In addition, many PVC cement brands say to use primer, so that’s what I do. (Following product labeling is an NEC requirement.) To use, liberally apply the primer to the end of the pipe, then apply glue. Push the pipe ends together and give the free pipe a quick quarter turn.

Debur PVC Conduit

Cutting PVC conduit with a hacksaw, circular saw, or PVC cutter leaves a rough edge that must be smoothed down or deburred before pulling wire through the conduit. Use a utility knife, metal file, pair of pliers or reamer to remove burs from both the inside and outside of the pipe edge. Run your fingers along the reamed edges to remove little bits of plastic.

Follow fill requirements

Conductors heat up as they carry electricity, so the NEC limits the number of wires you can install in PVC and all other conduit. This depends on the conduit size, the type (Schedule 80 or 40), the number of wires you’re pulling and their dimensions. Sometimes, it takes a bit of math to figure out, but the requirements are laid out in the NEC’s Chapter 9, Table 1, and Informative Annex C.

As a general rule, if you’re pulling a single circuit with a hot, neutral and EGC, the fill can’t be more than 40% of the conduit diameter. If the wires are all the same size, the NEC helpfully lists the maximum number of wires by wire type and conduit size.

Use plastic bushings and metal locknuts

Secure the PVC and male adapters coming into boxes with a metal locknut, then add a plastic bushing. The plastic bushing will protect the conductors from the friction of pulling them through the conduit, and metal locknuts are sturdier than plastic.

Bury PVC deep enough

The NEC has very specific depth requirements, outlined in Table 300.5, for all conduit runs underground. If you’re running a circuit out to a shed or detached garage, make sure you follow these rules to avoid damaging the circuit. The default depth for PVC is 18 inches unless the wiring meets certain qualifications. For example, if you are using PVC to run a 120-volt, GFCI-protected circuit that’s 20 amps or less, you can reduce that depth to 12 inches.

Keep bends to 360 degrees

Pulling wire through conduit gets harder with every bend, so the NEC limits the number of bends to 360 degrees before you have to put it in a junction box. This goes for all conduit runs, not just PVC. That’s four 90-degree turns before you need a box. Elbows also come in 45-degree bends and 22.5-degree bends, so add them up and keep the bends to 360 degrees or less.

Use metal elbows underground

The friction caused by pulling wire through underground PVC elbows will slice right through them, damaging the wire and leaving the pipe open to water intrusion. Instead, use metal elbows. Normally, all metal parts of a wiring system must be bonded (connected) to the grounding electrode system, but if you bury the run at least 18 inches deep, you do not need this bonding step.

Support at correct intervals

Like all conduit, PVC must be supported at various intervals to prevent sagging. The distance between supports depends on the size of the conduit, with smaller sizes requiring closer supports than larger ones. You’ll likely be using 1/2-in. or 3/4-in. PVC for home wiring and the supports for both must be no more than 3 feet apart. You can use plastic PVC straps or metal straps.

You also must support PVC within 3 feet of any conduit termination, such as an outlet box or junction box.

Use expansion fittings for long runs

You won’t believe how much PVC expands and contracts in the heat and cold, respectively. Let’s take a place like Minnesota, my old home state, where you can easily see a yearly temperature swing of 100 degrees, say from 90 degrees in the summer to minus 10 degrees in the winter (and that’s a good winter!). On a 100-foot run, the PVC will expand and contract about four inches.

If you don’t use an expansion fitting in the middle of the run, the PVC will likely crack or pull itself out of the fittings, leaving you with a potentially dangerous situation and an annoying repair job. The NEC’s table 352.44(A) outlines expected thermal expansion for various temperature swings and run lengths. You do not have to use expansion fittings underground, where temperatures are more stable.

Pull an equipment ground

Because PVC is plastic, you must pull an equipment grounding conductor (EGC) with your circuit conductors. An EGC provides a path back to the electrical panel so that any unintended current from a short circuit or ground fault can quickly trigger the breaker. Metal conduit can often serve as the EGC as long as every single connection point is bonded together. You don’t have that luxury with PVC because it’s not a conductive material.

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]]> An Electrician Teaches You How To Use Electrical Tape https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/electrical-tape-usage/ Mon, 21 Oct 2024 19:37:53 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=640527 It takes a bit of finesse, but once you get it, you get it.

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]]> One of my first jobs as an electrical apprentice was to pull wire. No, not the 12-gauge or 14-gauge non-metallic sheathed cable (NM-B, aka Romex) you see in your home, but massive, inch-thick wires used to bring power to U.S. Bank Stadium. When a wire gets this big, they don’t bother color-coding it like the black, red, white and green you buy at the store. It comes out to the job on giant reels, and it has one color: black.

Enter electrical tape. I was given a stack of brown, orange, yellow, and gray tape and told to get busy. (On a 277-volt service, the colors are different than in your home’s 120-volt service). One problem? There’s a bit of a learned technique to taping- a technique I definitely didn’t have yet. My foreman saw me awkwardly handling the tape and came over to give me a lesson.

I know it sounds ridiculous. (Who doesn’t know how to use tape?) But electrical tape differs from Scotch tape, painter’s tape and duct tape. Below, I’ll walk you through some helpful tips and tricks. You’ll be surprised at what electrical tape can do.

Uses for Electrical Tape

Here are the most common official uses (and one non-official use) for electrical tape.

  • Identification. Electrical tape is fantastic for wrapping around wires to identify them by color (called “phasing”) or for making flags to write on with a permanent marker. You can also ID your breakers and label electrical boxes.
  • Wire pulling. Wrap electrical tape around bundles of wire to organize them, then tape the head of your bundle and fish tape to effortlessly (well, sometimes) slide the wires through walls and conduit.
  • Protecting terminal screws. This is slightly controversial, but a lot of electricians (including me) were taught to wrap electrical tape around the terminal screws of receptacles and switches before shoving them into the box. The idea is to prevent shock if the device is handled while energized, but it’s not required by either the National Electrical Code (NEC) or manufacturers. (Ironically, following manufacturer labeling is required by the NEC, hence the controversy.)
  • Splice insulation. Electrical tape comes in various materials and insulation ratings to protect splices in high—and medium-voltage connections (such as utility transmission lines). This usage requires extensive training to ensure the splice is secure and protected. Never use electrical tape instead of wire nuts or other connectors.
  • Connecting motor leads to feeders. Motors often run 24 hours a day in dirty, greasy environments. Electrical tape protects the electrical connections against chemicals, corrosion, temperature fluctuations and moisture. Kits are sold for this purpose nowadays, but using tape this way is a time-tested skill that many electricians learn.
  • Minor or temporary repairs. We’ve all wrapped electrical tape around small scrapes and nicks in wire insulation, but if you can see the wire itself, do not use electrical tape to fix it.
  • Keeping paint scuff-free. This is my favorite non-standard use. Using a metal torpedo level on a painted wall (to level a device or faceplate, for example) leaves marks that do not come off. Wrap the edges of your level with electrical tape to keep your paint scuff-free.

How to Use Electrical Tape

To wrap electrical tape around a cable, a bundle of wires, a pipe, a fish tape or another cylindrical object, hold the tape loosely in your dominant hand, with your thumb on top of the tape. Unstick the flap on the tape. Hold the object in your opposite hand. Stick the flap to the object, hold it down and begin your wrap.

Grip the tape between your index finger and thumb, stretching it as you pull the tape toward you and down. Don’t pull off too much tape, or the roll will flop around and get twisted. You want just enough free tape to encircle the object once. Keep pressure on the tape so that it’s taut as you stick it to the object at a slight angle.

When you get underneath and to the backside of the object, flip the roll over the top with your fingers. Grab it, pull it taut and start another wrap, overlapping by half the width of the tape as you move down the length of the object. (Play around with your technique. You might like wrapping away from you and behind the object first, for example.)

When you reach the end of your taping job, grip the tape with your thumb and finger right next to the object and give it a quick jerk. This will rip the tape roll cleanly away, leaving a short flap. Fold or twist into a “buddy flag,” which makes it easy for the next guy or gal to unwrap the tape.

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]]> 3 Ways To Boost Your Cell Phone Signal at Home https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/how-to-boost-cell-phone-signal/ Tue, 01 Oct 2024 13:55:48 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=634201 Lousy cell phone coverage in your house? Don't despair. Boost that signal!

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]]> If you’re over the age of 30 or so, you might remember the “before times” of cell phone coverage, when you might have to leave your house or drive to a higher elevation to pick up a signal from the nearest tower. The frustration of dropped calls and that dreaded “no service” icon on your early Razr or Nokia — if only we’d had cell phone signal boosters back then!

Luckily, cell towers now dot the landscape, bringing cell service to the majority of the U.S. But depending on where you live or your provider, you may find yourself in need of a boost. We talked to two telecommunications experts to help you improve your home’s cell phone reception.

Why Am I Getting Poor Cell Phone Reception at My House?

Poor cell phone reception can’t be pinned on one single thing. “Poor home cell phone reception is often a result of several interconnected factors,” says Mick Chambers, vice president of product development for Kinetic by Windstream broadband service provider. “Distance from towers, especially in rural areas, is a primary culprit.” If you live out in the country, you’re probably well aware of this common problem.

But what if you live in a city or suburb, or you can see a tower right out your window? It’s probably not proximity. “Building materials, tree cover, and even weather can also interfere with signal strength,” Chambers adds. “Additionally, outdated technology and interference from other electronic devices can contribute to poor reception.”

The expert says it’s important to look at the problem holistically to take steps to improve your connectivity.

How To Boost Your Cell Signal at Home

Anyone can boost a cell phone signal. There are several ways to do it, and no, you don’t have to change providers.

Signal booster

Cell phone signal boosters can significantly enhance a lousy cell phone signal, Chambers says. “These devices amplify the existing cell signal in your home or car, leading to improved call quality and faster data speeds.” Cell phone signal boosters, which may also be called signal repeaters or amplifiers, have three main parts:

  1. An exterior antenna to capture a weak signal from a cell tower;
  2. An amplifier, aka “booster,” to increase the strength of the weak signal;
  3. An interior antenna is used to rebroadcast the enhanced cell signal where you need it, such as inside your home.

Because boosters use old-school antennas that literally grab a signal out of the air, you do need a signal somewhere nearby. They don’t work in areas of absolutely zero cell coverage. Quality cell phone signal boosters aren’t cheap, often costing hundreds of dollars (or more). But, if you’ve ever found yourself holding your phone above your head, desperately wandering around searching for a signal, you might find the cost well worth it.

Wi-Fi calling

This one isn’t technically a cell phone signal booster, but it’s an easy way to bypass spotty cell coverage. Most smartphones allow you to make and receive calls using a Wi-Fi connection instead of a cellular network. “This can be particularly useful in areas with weak cell signals but strong Wi-Fi coverage,” Chambers says. “Enabling this feature [on your phone] can vastly improve your call quality and reliability.”

Seth Geftic, a security expert and vice president of product marketing at Huntress, a cybersecurity company, agrees: “While Wi-Fi extenders won’t directly improve your cell signal, they can enhance your home Wi-Fi network, making Wi-Fi calling more reliable.” If your home network could use a boost, get an extender. These handy devices plug into a wall outlet and are fairly affordable, costing about $30 – $100.

Now’s a good time if you haven’t reviewed your network security settings in a while. “It’s important to secure your Wi-Fi network with strong passwords and encryption to prevent unauthorized access,” Geftic says.

Adjust phone settings

Finally, Chambers says simple adjustments to your phone’s settings can sometimes improve service. “For instance, turning on airplane mode for a few seconds and then turning it off can help reconnect your phone to the nearest cell tower.” And, when your phone asks to install a new version, say yes.

“Keeping your phone’s software up to date ensures you benefit from the latest connectivity improvements and bug fixes,” says Chambers.

Are Cell Phone Boosters Security Risks?

They can be. “Unsecured devices can become entry points for cyberattacks, putting your personal data at risk,” Geftic says. “These risks vary from signal interception, unauthorized access, interference with network security, firmware vulnerabilities and potential data leaks.”

Geftic says that to mitigate these risks, it is essential to properly secure the booster. Here’s how:

  • Purchase from reputable brands only, and regularly update the firmware.
  • Change default settings immediately, and use strong, unique passwords.
  • Place the booster in a secure location and enable WPA3 encryption in the configuration menu.
  • Secure your home network with WPA3 encryption (this is a setting on your router).
  • Disable unnecessary remote management features and regularly monitor connected devices.

FAQ

Do cell signal boosters actually work?

Yes, cell signal boosters do actually work. Just remember that they are not magic: You must have signal for the booster to boost.

Will a Wi-Fi extender help my cell signal?

No, a Wi-Fi extender won’t help boost your cell signal, but they will boost your Wi-Fi calling capability and reliability, helping you “get around” a bad cell signal.

Is there an app that helps boost cell phone signal?

No, there are no apps that help boost cell phone signal. “Be cautious of apps or codes that claim to boost cell signals, as they can sometimes be scams or malware,” Geftic says. “Stick to solutions provided by your carrier or trusted technology providers to avoid compromising your device’s security.”

What’s the code to help boost my cell phone signal?

There isn’t any code to boost cell phone signal. Geftic says claims about cell phone signal-boosting codes are often scams.

About the Experts

  • Mick Chambers is the vice president of product development for Kinetic by Windstream, a provider of high-speed broadband internet, wireless and home phone service and digital television to residential homes, businesses and government agencies. Chambers has more than 20 years of product management experience in the telecommunications industry, including the Internet of Things (IoT) and Over-The-Top (OTT) — aka streaming — content.
  • Seth Geftic is the vice president of product marketing at Huntress, a cybersecurity solutions company that protects small and medium-sized businesses through endpoint detection and response, Microsoft 365 identity protection and science-based security awareness training. Geftic has nearly 20 years experience in the security and identity protection industry.

Sources

Federal Communications Commission (FCC): FCC National Broadband Map

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]]> Home Electrical Wiring Tips and Safety https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/electrical-wiring/ Fri, 27 Sep 2024 17:31:43 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=636437 Wire better, faster and neater with these pro tips.

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]]> Do-it-yourself electrical projects are very rewarding. You’re taking care of your own home, learning new skills and saving money on tasks that are often very doable for a smart, diligent and careful person. However, working with electricity is dangerous, and that’s why the world needs licensed electricians like me.

If you have a few projects around the house, don’t be afraid to dig in. Swapping out a light fixture, adding a USB-charging receptacle or replacing a switch with a dimmer are perfect starter tasks. Below, I’ll walk you through some common wiring tips and safety issues so you can be a more confident DIYer.

If you ever feel the task is too complex, especially regarding your electrical service panel, that’s a good time to call a pro.

Electrical Safety

The first rule of electricity club is: Turn off the breaker! Never start a project without double-checking that the power is off. Old-timers talk of when “working hot” was the norm, and I’ve had to do it a few times myself when turning off the power would cause a major disruption. It is scary as heck and dangerous. There is no need for you to do it in your home.

Carry a non-contact voltage detector in your tool bag and use it whenever you do electrical work.

Read the Instructions

“Instructions? Who needs ’em?” some may thing. Well, you do. I do, too, and that’s why I read the paperwork, especially when doing something new. Manufacturers are very detailed when it comes to explaining how to put in their devices, and the National Electrical Code (NEC) actually requires that you follow their advice. I know electricians who immediately throw away the instructions, and believe me, those are the guys (and gals) who screw things up.

Uncoil Cable Without Kinks

Non-metallic sheathed cable (NM-B), better known as Romex, is often solid copper, and it’s tough pulling it through your walls or framing if you don’t uncoil it first. Electricians have a few tricks for this, but one easy way is to grab a handful of coils from the roll and just give it a toss. Then, walk along the length and straighten it out (you can even step on it as you go). Leave the rest of the wire contained in the packaging.

Take Pictures

This tip will save you tons of time if you’re replacing a fixture or you have to take apart multiple splices. Snap a few pics with your phone before you undo anything so you can refer back to them when it’s time to put in the new fixture. Labeling your wires with electrical tape and a Sharpie will help, too.

Check the Wall Void

Cutting a hole in the wall for a switch or receptacle outlet? Find the studs first, then run your stud finder over the entire section to see if you find any other obstructions. There may be wires, pipes or blocking that could screw up the placement of your new device or your ability to pull wire.

When you cut the hole, make the horizontal cuts first. If you run into an obstruction, make that spot the new outside edge of your outlet. Then, just turn your saw around and go back the other way.

Fishing Basics

Fishing wire through walls is an exercise in patience and perseverance. There’s nothing more depressing than hearing the “thunk” of your fish stick (aka glow rod or fish rod) hitting a header you didn’t realize was there. If you plan on renovating a lot, invest in a set of quality fish sticks and a long flex bit for drilling in hard-to-reach spaces.

If you’re just adding a single receptacle, and you have access to the top of the wall, use your tape measure as an impromptu fish stick. Just drop it down to your new outlet, tape a string or your Romex right to it, and pull it up through the cavity.

Make No-Snag Connections

Fish tape, a thin, flexible metal or nylon wire-pulling tool, is often used to snake wire through pipes. It also works well through walls, floors and studs, as long as the hooked end doesn’t get snagged on something. To make a smooth transition on the end of your fish tape, strip off six to eight inches of the sheathing from your NM-B cable.

Cut off all but one wire, trimming the cable at a steep angle to avoid leaving a “shoulder.” Slide the single long wire through the end of the fish tape, fold it over, and wrap the electrical tape tightly around the entire head (including the cut-off edge of the Romex). As you wrap the tape, smooth out any bumps to make the head as smooth as you can.

Pack Boxes Neatly

I just replaced a receptacle with one I can charge my phone with, and the box was so messy that I spent an hour straightening up the wires. Jammed boxes with lots of extra nonsense call you out as an amateur, so take the time to neatly fold and push bundles of wires to the back of the box, using pigtails or short pieces of wire to attach to the device (when you have room).

Speaking of room, stuffing too many wires in an electrical box is a code violation. The NEC periodically updates “box fill” requirements, so find out which code cycle your jurisdiction follows to ensure you’re keeping things legal.

Label Your Breakers

This is a fantastic entry-level project that makes your life easier and your house safer. When I moved into my current house, I needed to turn off the dishwasher circuit to replace a drain pump. Was it the breaker labeled “dishwasher”? Nope! That one controlled the countertop receptacles. For some reason, electrical panels are very rarely properly labeled.

Enlist a friend, and start flipping breakers. If you don’t have a willing pal, buy a circuit tracer, which is very affordable nowadays, a receptacle tester, or just use a loud radio. Plug it in, turn it up, and flip the breakers until the radio goes off. Once you have the breakers worked out, label them somewhere inside or near the electrical panel.

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]]> 15 Electrical Mistakes Homeowners Make https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/top-electrical-mistakes/ https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/top-electrical-mistakes/#respond Fri, 06 Sep 2024 16:15:56 +0000 Here's what to look for, and how to fix what you find.

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]]>

Using volt meter on outlet

Using a Non-Contact Voltage Tester Incorrectly

Mistake: Misusing your tester.

Electricians always carry non-contact voltage testers with them, and you should have one, too. They’re inexpensive and easy to use, and they help keep you safe when doing DIY electrical work.

Solution: Test. Use. Verify.

First, test the tester by holding it to a known live circuit, like a powered appliance or lamp cord. Or, insert it into a receptacle (use the smaller slot, which is the hot side). The tester should light up and/or beep. Locate the circuit you’ll be working on and turn off the breaker. Use the tester to verify the circuit’s off, then check the tester on the same live circuit as before to confirm it functioned correctly.

Making Connections Outside Electrical Boxes

Making Connections Outside Electrical Boxes

Mistake: Not using an electrical box.

“Electrical boxes, sometimes referred to as junction boxes, protect connections from accidental damage, and help contain sparks and heat from a loose connection or short circuit,” says Gerald Talbot, licensed electrician with Mister Sparky. “Failing to make connections inside the electrical box is arguably the biggest mistake a homeowner can make, as this can result in major hazards.”

Solution: Add a box.

If you start a project and find a jumble of taped-together wires stuffed in the wall cavity instead of neatly contained in a junction box, don’t ignore it. (This happened to me, with a century-old knob and tube wiring.) Ensure the power is off, add a box and reconnect the conductors. If you’re not near a stud, use “old work” remodel boxes that grip right to the drywall.

Wires on an outlet

Cutting Wires Too Short

Mistake: Too-short wires

Trying to join, aka splice, tiny little wires in an electrical box is tough. “Short wires can cause a host of potential hazards and make connections difficult,” Talbot says. Bad splices can cause electrical arcs and fires, so the National Electrical Code (NEC) requires six inches of free conductor at every electrical box. Over time, though, conductors tend to get shorter as people swap out devices over the life of a home.

Solution: Add pigtails

If you open up an electrical box to find stubby conductors, add pigtails, which are short pieces of wire used to extend electrical connections. Of course, you still have the problem of splicing the pigtails onto the tiny conductors. To make things easier, use push-in connectors or lever nuts, aka Wagos, rather than trying to spin on a traditional wire nut.

Putting wires on terminal screws

Backstabbing Instead of Using Screw Terminals

Mistake: Backstabbing electrical connections

Receptacles and light switches have holes where you can insert the conductors instead of attaching them to the terminal screws. “Backstabbing” is technically acceptable (after all, the holes are right there), but the connections tend to loosen over time, potentially causing electrical arcs and fires.

Solution: Use the screw terminals.

Every electrician I’ve ever met (including me) prefers using the terminal screws, or pigtailing to them, instead of backstabbing. Make a hook on the end of the conductor and wrap clockwise around the terminal screw. Tighten with a screwdriver.

Reversing Hot And Neutral

Reversing Hot and Neutral

Mistake: Reversing hot and neutral

This creates a shock hazard, and because the light or device will likely still work, you won’t even know it until it’s too late.

Solution: Identify wires and terminals

In a standard NM-B cable, the black wire is the hot, the white is the neutral and the bare copper wire is the equipment grounding conductor (EGC). When wiring receptacles and light switches, attach the black wire to the brass screw (labeled HOT), and the white wire to the silver screw (labeled WHITE). The bare ECG goes to the green ground screw.

For wires that aren’t clearly marked by color, like on a lamp cord, the hot is the smooth wire, and the neutral has ribs, grooves or other markings.

Installing Cable Without A Clamp

Installing Cable Without a Clamp

Mistake: Missing cable clamp

I can’t tell you how often I’ve found NM-B (Romex) cable resting, or pulled taut, against the sharp edges of a metal electrical box. Over time, this friction point wears down the insulation and is a major fire hazard.

Solution: Use a cable clamp.

“When using metal junction boxes, it is important to use a cable clamp to ensure the cable is securely fastened within the box and conductors will not get exposed outside of the box,” says Chris Lozano, master electrician and virtual electrical expert at Frontdoor. Make sure the clamp is secure around the cable, Lozano says, but don’t crank down too much to avoid constricting the wires.

Using The Wrong Size Conductors

Using the Wrong Size Conductors

Mistake: Choosing the wrong wire size.

Electrical conductors’ diameter, or gauge, determines how much current they can safely carry. Using too-small wires causes overheating, but unnecessarily large wires are a waste of money.

Solution: Match existing conductors.

When doing DIY electrical work, check the size of the breaker and match the existing wire in the box. Most of the time, you’ll see 14-gauge conductors on 15-amp circuits, and 12-gauge wire on 20-amp circuits. It’s okay to have bigger wires than necessary, but never go smaller.

Replacing Two Slot Receptacles

Replacing Two-Slot Receptacles

Mistake: Incorrectly replacing two-slot receptacles

Two-slot receptacles have hot and neutral connections only. If you have a three-prong, grounded plug, you’re out of luck. Removing the ground prong, using an adapter or swapping out a two-slot for a three-slot receptacle are major electrical mistakes to avoid.

Solution: Swap out two-prong for GFCI

The quickest way to make the outlet safer is to add a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). The circuit still won’t be grounded, but the device will provide shock protection. You can plug in a three-prong plug, and it’s an NEC-approved replacement option. Label the front of the GFCI “No Equipment Ground.” (There are stickers in the GFCI box for this purpose.)

Recessing Boxes Behind Wall Surfaces

Recessing Boxes Behind Wall Surfaces

Mistake: Exposed combustible material

“When boxes are set too far into the wall, it creates safety hazards and fire risks, plus the unit is less accessible,” Talbot says. In tile, drywall and other noncombustible materials, boxes can sit back one-quarter of an inch, while they must be exactly flush with the surface of wood paneling and other flammable walls.

Solution: Add a box extender

Box extenders are cheap, handy tools used “to extend a box past a certain depth, like when backsplash tile is installed on a kitchen countertop,” Lozano says. They’re easy to install, and you don’t even have to dismantle the device. (But always turn off the power!) Just slip it over the switch or receptacle and secure it to the existing box.

Breakers

Upsizing Breaker Without Updating Wire

Mistake: Swapping out a breaker without updating conductors

A breaker that constantly trips is trying to tell you something. You’re putting too much load on the circuit, or the wiring has a problem. If you’re tempted to swap out the breaker for a bigger one to stop the tripping, don’t. Upsizing the breaker doesn’t diagnose your wiring problem, and the old wires will be too small for the new breaker.

Solution: Call a licensed electrician.

Hire a licensed electrician for matters concerning your electrical panel unless you really know what you’re doing.

Ceiling fan

Installing Ceiling Fan In the Wrong Box

Mistake: Undersizing ceiling fan box

Before I was an electrician, I had a comically bad experience attempting to install a ceiling fan. The main problem? The ancient electrical box in the ceiling was not designed for the weight of the fan. Ceiling fans are heavy, and they rotate. They need to be properly supported.

Solution: Get the right box.

If your fan is 35 pounds or more, it must be supported by a listed box that is marked with the weight the box can support. If the box is not marked, a ceiling joist or other structural member must independently support the ceiling fan. If your fan is over 70 pounds, it must be supported independently no matter what.

wires in electrical box

Overfilling Electrical Boxes

Mistake: Too many wires in a junction box.

Stuffing as many wires as possible into an electrical box is a fire hazard.

Solution: Follow box fill requirements.

The NEC limits the number of wires, devices, clamps and other accessories inside electrical boxes. This code requirement is called “box fill,” and it’s based on volume. Each item is assigned a value based on the gauge of the wire inside the box, and when added together, they must be less than the box’s volume.

The NEC occasionally updates box fill requirements, so check with your local code authority to know which ones to follow. It’s also perfectly acceptable to buy bigger boxes than you technically need. Future electricians will thank you.

A hand is adjusting a circuit breaker in a gray electrical panel. The panel is mounted on a wall in an indoor setting.

Using Too Many GFCIs and AFCIs

Mistake: Buying too many expensive devices

The NEC requires GFCI and/or arc fault current interrupter (AFCI) protection in most places in your home. But, that doesn’t mean you have to buy dozens of GFCI and AFCI receptacles to install in every outlet. That’s good, because they’re expensive.

Solution: Use one receptacle to protect an entire circuit.

GFCI and AFCI receptacles have two sets of terminals: Line and Load. The power comes into the line side, and the load side connects to the next receptacle. As long as you daisy-chain the rest of the circuit, a single GFCI or AFCI, or a combo, will protect the receptacles downstream (which can be regular receptacles).

Overloading Electrical Circuits

Overloading Electrical Circuits

Mistake: Too many devices on one circuit

“An overloaded circuit can lead to device and wire failure, which can ultimately lead to fire and destruction of equipment,” Lozano says.

Solution: Keep things separate

If you’re roughing in a new addition or trying to decide whether a circuit can handle another appliance, err on the side of caution. “Things like window AC units, space heaters, microwaves, and other appliances can be a huge draw, so it is best to keep them separate or run dedicated circuits when possible,” Lozano says.

A 15-amp circuit can handle 1800 watts, a 20 amp circuit 2400 watts. Look at the amps or watts listed on your appliances and devices, and add them up. (To convert amps to watts, multiply amps by 120 volts. To find amps from watts, divide watts by 120 volts.)

A man in a hard hat and safety glasses works with electrical wires using pliers, while surrounded by a tangle of colorful cables in a neutral-colored room.

Not Calling a Licensed Electrician

Mistake: Getting in over your head.

DIY electrical work can be very rewarding and save you money. But it’s different from fixing a leaky pipe. It only takes a few milliamps of electricity to cause severe injury and even death.

Solution: Don’t mess around with your safety.

If you find yourself in a situation where you’re uncomfortable, stop. Have a licensed electrician investigate frequently tripping breakers, flickering lights, burning smells, scorch marks or melted devices. Always turn off the power (and verify it’s off) before looking into anything yourself.

About the Experts

    • Chris Lozano is a master electrician and virtual electrical expert at Frontdoor, a home care and maintenance app that connects people and professional technicians via tech-enhanced video chats. Lozano has more than ten years of experience in the electrical industry.
    • Gerald Talbot is a licensed electrician with Mister Sparky. Talbot has electrical contracting licenses in Georgia and Tennessee and is the owner-operator of Mister Sparky in Chattanooga, Tennessee.

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]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/top-electrical-mistakes/feed/ 0 How Does a DIY Solar Water Heater Work? https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/diy-solar-water-heater/ Tue, 13 Aug 2024 19:02:44 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=630269 If you like the idea of sun-powered electricity, you'll warm right up to the idea of residential solar water heaters. Here's what you need to know.

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]]> The Department of Energy estimates that heating water accounts for 18 percent of a typical home’s energy usage, so if you could use the sun’s energy for this task, you could enjoy significant savings on your energy bill. That’s what a solar water heater does, and while it may look like a PV panel from the ground, it’s much easier to build and install.

Judging from the number of panels and storage tanks I saw on rooftops when I lived in Japan in the ’90s, homeowners in some other countries are more tuned into this energy-saving strategy than Americans. Al Ruggie of Phoenix-based ASAP Restoration laments: “For sure, we have never installed a solar hot water heater on a home for a client because we wouldn’t be able to warranty the unit since (as far as I know) they aren’t made by any single company that offers one. And (sadly, I’ll admit) despite being in Phoenix where it’s sunny year-round, I rarely see solar hot water heaters on local properties.”

The California property on which I live was off-grid when we moved in (it still is, but we’re working on that), and besides PV panels, it had a large solar water heating panel. It was homemade, too bulky and unwieldy to put on the roof, so we never used it. And that begs a caution for anyone considering a DIY solar water heater: Don’t forget to include hoisting it onto the roof, securing it against high winds and connecting it to your hot water supply as part of your overall plan.

What Is a Solar Water Heater?

A solar water heater heats water using the sun’s energy and circulates it into the household’s hot water supply. There are several ways to build one, but one of the most common is to construct a collector panel with an in-built network of tubing through which water can circulate. Cold water enters at one end, and water heated by radiation absorbed by the collector comes out the other.

Solar hot water systems of yesteryear were often leaky, failure-prone and ineffective (like our bulky panel), but the industry has matured. Today, you can choose between super-efficient, professionally installed collectors and less-expensive DIY-friendly solar hot water heater systems.

How Does a Solar Water Heater Work?

All solar water heaters have one feature in common: the ability to absorb heat from sunlight and transfer it into water. Systems differ, however, in the way they store and circulate water.

Passive systems rely on the thermosyphon effect — the fact that hot water is less dense than cold water and tends to rise above it. These systems usually include a holding tank positioned above the solar collector (this is the type of system I often saw on Japanese rooftops). On a sunny day, water heated in the collector rises into the tank, and an outlet feeds the heated water into the building by the force of gravity.

Active systems circulate water using a mechanical pump, and there are two types:

  • A direct system circulates water into a holding tank in the building, which is usually just a standard tank-style water heater.
  • An indirect system circulates a heat-transfer fluid like ethylene glycol (anti-freeze) through a heat exchanger, which is simply a system of coils installed inside a water heater tank. The fluid exchanges heat with the water in the tank rather than heating the water directly. This type of system prevents water contamination and is better for colder climates because it resists freezing.

Will a Solar Water Heater Work for Your Home?

As with all things solar, the number-one prerequisite for a solar water heater is enough direct sunlight to make it work. If you have a sunny spot on your roof or property large enough to set one up (it doesn’t have to be on the roof), you can save energy by feeding heated water into your existing water heater or circulating it through your plumbing directly from a rooftop tank.

You can benefit even if you live in a cold climate because you can either install a freeze-proof heat-exchange system or a system you can drain in the winter when temperatures are below freezing.

How Much Does a Solar Water Heater Cost?

This depends on how much of it you DIY. If you build your own collector, install it yourself and hook it up to your existing water heater, the cost could be as low as $1,000, depending on the materials you use. The cost to purchase the components as a kit is between $1,500 and $6,000, and if you have the system professionally installed, add about $3,000.

Solar water heaters qualify for the Renewable Energy Tax Credit, a federal program that reimburses 30 percent of the cost of purchase and installation. In addition, some states and communities may provide additional incentives. To qualify, the system must be rated by the Solar Rating and Certification Corporation (SRCC) or a comparable entity, which may include some commercial DIY kits.

How To Make a DIY Solar Water Heater

As mentioned, the most common DIY solar water heater consists of a collector, a coil network, a cold water inlet and an outlet for hot water. Here’s a very basic outline of the procedure for building one:

  1. Build the collector box using lightweight plywood (1/4 to 3/8 inches thick) for the base and 1-by-4-inch cedar for the frame. Seal all joints with silicone caulk.
  2. Insulate the interior of the box with 1-inch foil-backed foam insulation with the foil facing outward.
  3. Construct a coil that fits snugly in the box using 3/4-inch copper tubing and elbow fittings. Maximize the number of turns in the coil to lengthen the path of water flowing through the collector.
  4. Extend one end of the coil through a bottom corner of the box for the cold water inlet and the other end through the diagonally opposite corner for the hot water outlet. Solder an adapter onto each end so you can attach a garden hose or plumbing pipe.
  5. Cover the collector box with glass and use silicone caulk to seal the edges and keep out rain.
  6. Mount the collector on the roof or the ground in a southerly direction to maximize solar exposure.
  7. Connect a cold water hose or supply pipe to the inlet and a hot water hose or pipe to the outlet. Run the hot water supply to a holding tank, which may be in the house or on the roof. The plumbing connections vary depending on the configuration.

Pros and Cons of Solar Water Heaters

Pros

  • Energy savings: You’re heating water for free. Whether you use it directly from a rooftop tank or use it to fill your water heater, you’ll save money.
  • Low maintenance: Once the system is up and running, you can basically forget about it. If you’re circulating a heat-transfer fluid, however, you may have to replace it periodically.
  • Eco-friendly: A solar water heater is an effective way to reduce dependence on fossil fuels for home heating.

Cons

  • Depends on the weather: A solar water heater won’t work on cloudy or rainy days or at night. Insulating the storage tanks helps mitigate this drawback.
  • Winterization: You need to prepare for freezing temperatures, either by using a heat-transfer fluid or draining the pipes and shutting down the system in the winter.
  • Cost: In general, a solar water heater costs significantly more than a conventional one, even if you build it yourself.

FAQ

How long does a solar water heater keep water warm?

In a properly insulated storage tank, water heated in a solar water heater during the day should stay hot overnight and possibly longer, depending on how much you use.

How much solar power do I need to run a solar water heater?

The amount of solar energy a solar water heater uses depends on a number of factors, including the amount of available sunlight, your water usage and the size of the collector panel. As a rule of thumb, plan on 10 square feet of panel space for each person in the household.

What’s the lifespan of solar water heaters?

A solar water heater can last from 10 to 25 years, although this depends on climate, the configuration of the system and the materials used to build it.

Do solar water heaters need a pump?

If a solar water heater’s storage tank isn’t mounted above the collector to take advantage of the thermosyphon effect, you need a pump to circulate water through the coil and into the tank. A solar-powered pump doesn’t use any extra energy, but if you plug a circulation pump into your electrical system, it will consume from 25 to 150 watts of power when it’s running.

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]]> Save Money On Your Utility Bills By Filling Gaps Around Electrical Outlets https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/save-money-on-your-utility-bills-by-filling-gaps-around-electrical-outlets/ Mon, 24 Jun 2024 18:31:40 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=620623 Air leaks around electrical devices and register openings on exterior walls can create significant drafts, increasing heating and cooling costs. Plugging them takes only a few minutes.

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]]> Electrical outlets and switches on exterior walls can leak a lot of cold outside air into the house. Add up all the outlets in the average house, and you can experience some serious heat loss, which makes it worth spending 10 minutes per outlet plugging the holes.

Before you start, flip the circuit breaker off and use a noncontact voltage tester to ensure there’s no power. Remove the cover plate. If the gap between the electrical box and the drywall is less than 1/4 in., fill it with acrylic latex caulk. If the gap is bigger and lopsided, use foam sealant that’s formulated for use around doors and window framing. The minimally expanding foam won’t drip down your walls.

After the foam dries, cut away any that protrudes, add a foam gasket (to reduce drafts through the box) and replace the cover plate. Do the same around register openings on the inside of exterior walls.

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]]> GFCI vs. AFCI Outlets: What’s the Difference? https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/gfci-vs-afci/ Tue, 07 May 2024 16:38:21 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=612997 Confused about these important safety devices? An electrician explains the difference.

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]]> If you’ve spent any time around DIY websites and home improvement stores, you’ve likely heard about GFCI vs. AFCI outlets. These important electrical safety devices, technically called “receptacles”, are likely installed in your house right now. But what are they? How to they work? And, if you don’t have them, do you need to run out and get some?

When I was an electrical apprentice, I got shocked so hard it knocked me down. That incident could have been prevented with a GFCI. Later, I spent the better part of a month installing AFCI protection in hundreds of college dorms, only to find out I didn’t have any in my own home. I remedied that quickly, let me tell you! And you can, too.

Find out all you need to know about AFCI vs. GFCI outlets ahead.

What is a GFCI Outlet?

A GFCI outlet (receptacle) protects against electric shock by monitoring the electrical current flowing through the GFCI. If there’s even a tiny difference (4 to 6 milliamps) between the hot and neutral wires, the GFCI assumes the stray current could be going through a person, and de-energizes almost instantly.

To put 4 to 6 milliamps in perspective, 10 milliamps can cause people to lose the ability to let go of an object, and at approximately 100 milliamps you’re at risk of death (depending on several factors like age, weight and exposure time).

What does GFCI stand for?

Ground fault circuit interrupter. GFCI protection can be provided by receptacles or breakers, and they must be installed in a readily accessible location so you can reach them if they trip.

What is a ground fault?

A ground fault is a type of short circuit that happens when a hot wire comes in contact with a part of an electrical installation that’s not supposed to be energized, like an electrical box, or the outside of your toaster or washing machine.

If you happen to be touching the electrified object, the current could go through you unless the circuit quickly de-energizes.

Are GFCIs required?

Yes. Because GFCIs are safety devices, the National Electrical Code (NEC) mandates their use in specific rooms and circuits in new construction, like:

  • Bathrooms
  • Kitchens
  • Sinks (within 6 feet)
  • Outdoors
  • Basements and crawl spaces
  • Garages and outbuildings
  • Laundry areas
  • Other damp and wet locations, as well as specific appliances like dishwashers and sump pumps

Always check with your local jurisdiction to see what’s required.

Do GFCI outlets go bad?

They can, so it’s a good idea to test them monthly. Have you ever tested yours? People rarely do, so since 2015, GFCIs have had an internal self-test function. Once a GFCI reaches the end of its lifespan, it shuts off power to the device (indicated by a light on the front).

Even with self-testing, you should still do a manual test every month to check the mechanical tripping mechanism.

How to wire a GFCI outlet

There are two sets of connections on a GFCI: Line and Load. These will be clearly marked, and if the GFCI is new there will be a piece of yellow tape over the load connections. Only use the load side if you’re protecting other devices on the same circuit.

To wire a single GFCI, use the line terminals. The hot wire goes on the brass screw, the neutral on the silver. To protect receptacles “downstream” of the GFCI, remove the yellow tape and use the load side screws to connect to the next receptacle.

Always properly ground the receptacle and circuit using the green ground screw.

How to reset and test a GFCI outlet

A GFCI has two buttons: “Test” and “Reset.” To test a GFCI, press the “Test” button until you hear an audible click. This opens the contacts inside the device, indicating that the GFCI is operational. Then, hit the “Reset” button to put things back into place.

If your GFCI trips, push the “Reset” button to reset it. Occasional trips are fine, but if it happens frequently, get it checked out by a licensed electrician.

Another way to test a GFCI is to use a GFCI receptacle tester. Plug the tester in and hit the button. You should hear a click, and the power light will go off. Remove the tester and reset the GFCI using the Reset button.

What is an AFCI Outlet?

An AFCI receptacle (aka outlet) protects your home from fires by constantly monitoring the circuit for evidence of dangerous electrical arcs. An AFCI can sense the difference between brief, regular arcs inherent in certain electrical applications (like a light switch), and abnormal ones caused by a worn wire.

What does AFCI stand for?

Arc-fault circuit interrupter. Just like a GFCI, AFCI protection can be provided by receptacles or circuit breakers, and they must be readily accessible.

What is an arc fault?

An arc fault is a type of abnormal electrical discharge. Damaged wires and improper connections can cause electricity to “jump” between damaged sections of a conductor, or between multiple conductors, placing nearby combustible materials at risk.

Are AFCIs required?

Yes. Almost every room in newly-constructed homes requires AFCI protection, including bedrooms, living rooms, dining rooms, kitchens, laundry rooms, hallways and closets. Basically, the only places you don’t need AFCIs are bathrooms and garages, but always verify with your local code authority.

Do AFCI outlets go bad?

They can go bad, so they should be tested monthly, just like GFCIs.

How to wire an AFCI outlet

Wire an AFCI receptacle just like a GFCI. Use the line side to bring power to the AFCI receptacle, and the load side to provide AFCI protection to the rest of the circuit. Always properly ground the receptacle and circuit using the green ground screw.

How to reset and test an AFCI outlet

To test an AFCI receptacle, push the “Test” button on the front. You should hear an audible click. Reset the AFCI by pushing the “Reset” button. You can also purchase an AFCI receptacle tester (often combined with a GFCI tester) to test the receptacle.

What’s the Difference Between GFCI and AFCI Outlets?

Both AFCI and GFCI protection monitor circuits for electrical faults, and shut off power to the device when they detect a problem. The difference is that AFCIs protect your home from fires, while GFCIs protect people from electrical shock.

GFCI vs. AFCI Outlets: Which Is Right For Me?

In new construction, AFCI vs. GFCI usage will be determined by code requirements. The NEC is published every three years, occasionally adding locations that need protection. States and cities adopt the code at different intervals, so depending on where you live you may have different requirements.

In older homes, you are not required to retrofit your existing fault protection unless you update your wiring. But, because adding AFCI and GFCI protection is as easy as swapping out one receptacle per circuit, you can add these important safety devices at any time. Just follow the NEC to know which one goes where, and make sure they’re readily accessible.

FAQs

How can you tell if an outlet is GFCI vs. AFCI?

It’s a little hard to tell AFCI vs. GFCI, but they’re labeled on the front of the device. You may also see a sticker on the outside of a regular receptacle (outlet) if it is protected by another device. Stickers are provided for this purpose when you buy AFCI and GFCI receptacles.

Are GFCIs or AFCIs surge protectors?

No. Surge protectors suppress voltage spikes from lightning and other power surges. Surge protectors have a maximum number of joules (a unit of energy) they can absorb before you need to get another one. AFCIs and GFCIs have no specified limits of protection.

Do GFCIs or AFCIs prevent fires?

AFCIs prevent fires. GFCIs protect people from shock.

Can I use a GFCI or AFCI breaker instead of an outlet?

Yes. The NEC requires AFCI and GFCI protection, not receptacles or outlets. Breakers are a convenient way to accomplish the required protection.

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]]> 12 Facts About LED Christmas Lights You Should Know https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/led-christmas-lights/ Tue, 26 Mar 2024 23:40:26 +0000 Have you thought about upgrading your home's holiday light display? Here are some tips and tricks you should know about LED Christmas lights.

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]]> A white piggy bank is wrapped in colorful Christmas lights, glowing against a red background, creating a playful holiday atmosphere.

LED Lights Cost More Money Upfront

LED Christmas lights will cost you more money upfront because components are often assembled by hand. But you’ll save money in the long run on your Christmas lights electric bill since LED lights use 75% less energy than incandescents.

And because LED lights use less energy, you’ll reduce greenhouse gas emissions, giving the environment a little help along with your power bill. LED lights also last longer so you don’t have to replace a strand of them as often. And since they need conducting material to dissipate heat and dispense a natural white glow, they’re often coated with yellow phosphor.

Do you know these things about LED lights:

A young child in a Santa costume joyfully interacts with colorful blocks next to a decorated Christmas tree in a warmly lit room.

Cool To the Touch

If you have children or pets and are concerned about safety around holiday decorations, LED lights are a good choice because they produce next to no heat. That means they’re always cool to the touch.

A warmly lit entrance features a door adorned with a wreath, surrounded by snow-covered plants and twinkling lights, creating a cozy winter scene.

Work Efficient in Cold Weather

When temperatures drop below freezing, incandescent lights can actually burst! But LED outdoor Christmas lights work just fine in cold temperatures. They actually burn more efficiently as the temperature drops.

Green wreaths adorned with glowing lights and red ribbons are hung along a white picket fence, surrounded by a snowy ground at night.

LED Lights Are Durable

LED Christmas lights receive high marks for durability. In tests, LED bulbs still worked after more than 4,000 hours. Standard light-string bulbs, however, burned out at a rate of one to two per strand in less than half that time. You can also use these LED lights in your bedroom permanently to create a nice inviting atmosphere that boosts relaxation.

Colorful decorative lights are connected to a power supply, illuminating in various hues. They hang from a white cord structure against a plain background.

More Lights, Fewer Outlets

Typically, you can connect eight to ten times more mini LED light strings together end-to-end on one electrical outlet. With traditional Christmas mini lights, you can only connect four to five sets. LED strings let you run 40 to 50 together, depending on the light count.

A person holds a yellow light tester, checking tangled Christmas lights near a red storage bin adorned with a Santa hat.

You Can Replace Single Bulbs

Just like classic incandescent Christmas lights, LED Christmas lights can fail, one light at a time or an entire string. And single replacement bulbs are available for many types of LED string light bulbs.

A close-up of a human eye reflects a faint blue light, suggesting focus on a nearby screen in a dimly lit environment.

Blue LED Christmas Lights Can Make You Sick

The blue light from LED Christmas lights, along with electronics like tablets, smartphones and laptops, can mess with your circadian rhythm and interfere with sleep. Over time, that can lead to obesity, diabetes and depression.

In the short term, some people feel nauseous and get headaches when exposed to blue LED Christmas lights, so you might not want to do an all-blue Christmas tree!

Colorful holiday lights hang down, illuminating their surroundings, against a soft blue background with blurred bokeh effects of various colors.

Big Bulbs vs. Small Bulbs

While mini lights have been the most popular Christmas light decorations for the past ten years or so, those buky “old-fashioned” colored bulbs are making a comeback. The best part? The big bulbs are available as LEDs.

A green pine branch glimmers with golden lights, creating a festive atmosphere amidst a soft, blurred background of overlapping greenery and light.

Decorating Done Right

When decorating with LED Christmas lights outside, it’s best to string trees in the evening with the light strands plugged in so you can see the effect as you go. When lighting evergreen trees, use bigger bulbs; smaller bulbs look best on deciduous trees. Using a Christmas light tester is a smart way to check your old lights.

A decorated Christmas tree shines with lights, surrounded by softly lit candles and festive decorations in a cozy, warmly illuminated living room.

Warm White or Cool White?

LED Christmas lights are available with warm white light or cool white light.

Warm white LED lights give off a soft glow compared to traditional lights and are a good choice indoors for Christmas trees. Cool white LED lights offer a more snow-white tone and are often used outdoors.

Colorful LED string lights are coiled beside a box labeled "200 LED Mini String Lights," intended for indoor or outdoor decorations.

How Long Do LED Lights Last?

LEDs last a lot longer than other lightbulbs. According to the Department of Energy, the average lifespan of LED bulbs is 30,000 to 50,000 hours. That’s enough for many, many Christmases before you need to change a bulb.

A woman decorates a brightly lit Christmas tree with colorful lights, surrounded by soft purple and blue background illumination from hanging lights.

White, Red, Blue and Green LED Christmas Lights

Since LEDs come in a variety of colors, you can have fun with less traditional color schemes. Whether it’s a winter wonderland scene or a “spooky Christmas,” your lights are sure to impress. Although, if you have a red-tipped bulb amongst your lights, it’s not for a less traditional color scheme but for a specific reason.

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]]> 17 Handy Hints for DIY Electrical Work https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/tips-for-diy-electrical-work/ Fri, 22 Mar 2024 20:42:55 +0000 http://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=listicle&p=266563 Get to know these tricks before you tackle electrical projects at home.

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]]> A person applies caulk from a tube to a circuit breaker panel, which displays multiple labeled switches, in a home environment.

Easy-to-Read Circuit Breakers

I had to switch off a few circuit breakers in my basement and found it hard to see the stamped numbers on the electrical panel because it’s pretty dark down there. Tired of squinting, I decided to make them easier to see with a little bit of white painter’s caulk. I put a dab on each of the numbers and wiped off the excess with my finger, leaving behind easy-to-read numbers. — Casey Overland

A hand is pressing a circuit breaker switch in a panel. An electric speaker connected to a wall outlet sits on a wooden floor nearby.

The Best Way to Test Breaker Switches

I like to have my switches and outlets labeled, so it’s easy to figure out which breaker to shut off when I need to change a switch or outlet. When I moved into a new home, I had to label everything anew. I didn’t have a helper, so I used a radio instead.

I plugged it into an outlet and turned up the music. Then I flipped breakers until the radio shut off. Light-bulb socket adapters with receptacles built into the sides helped identify the lighting circuits. I had everything labeled in an hour. — Collin Grace

A sander lies on a wooden surface, surrounded by dust, connected to a power strip with blue painter's tape, indicating an ongoing renovation or woodworking task.

Simple Way to Save Your Outlets While Woodworking

I do a lot of power sanding at my workbench, and all the sawdust kept getting into the outlet strip and interfering with the electrical contact. Now I put a strip of masking tape over outlets I’m not using and replace it as needed. The power strips last a lot longer! — Helene Lesel

A power strip with multiple red indicator lights is mounted on a wall, while several battery chargers for tools rest on a shelf below it.

This Power Strip Is a Must-Have for Your Workshop

A while ago, I created a power-charging station where I could amass a bunch of my battery chargers. All the chargers were connected to one power strip. It did help organize my shop, but it always bugged me that all those chargers sprang to life when I turned on the power strip even when I only needed to charge one battery. It’s not a big deal if the chargers are empty, but I often leave batteries sitting in the cradle until they’re needed again.

I solved the problem by buying a power strip that has a separate switch for each outlet. There are a few brands available online. I bought the Tripp Lite model TLP76MSGB. Six of the outlets are switched while one stays on all the time, and all seven have surge protection.  — Frank Thomas

A man, wearing safety glasses, operates a miter saw on a workbench while pressing a power strip button in a workshop with wooden walls.

Flip the Switch

To cut down on plugging and unplugging and flipping switches, try this solution: a power strip with keyholes in the back for mounting to the side of a cabinet. It’s got a switch that turns the outlets on and off.

Plug in a light and vacuum so when you flip the switch on the strip, they both come on. Then start your saw and you’re ready to go. Don’t try to plug in too many things; most strips are rated at just 15 amps. — Ken Collier

Two sets of electrical wires in different gauges lie next to a quarter, illustrating their size difference with labels indicating 14-gauge and 12-gauge.

Use Pocket Change to Determine Wire Sizes

When you add an electrical outlet, you need to use wire the same gauge as the existing wiring. How do you tell if your old wiring is 12-gauge or 14-gauge? A simple visual makes it easy.

Twelve-gauge is about the thickness of a nickel, and 14-gauge about the thickness of a dime. Also, look at the breaker for the circuit in question to see if it’s a 15-amp or a 20-amp breaker. A 20-amp circuit requires wire size 12-gauge or larger.

A hand holds a level above a wall plate, while another hand uses a screwdriver to secure it, indicating installation in a home setting.

DIY Double-Switch Alignment Jig

Eliminate the trial and error of aligning double switches. Create a jig by drilling 1/2-inch holes in a double cover plate to access the device mounting screws.

Level the cover plate over the switch or outlet, and screw the switches down tight through the 1/2-inch holes. Remove the jig and attach the “real” cover plate. — Wallace L. Trout

A person connects electrical wires to a blue outlet box mounted on a wooden wall, using a tool in one hand while holding the wires with the other.

Tool Makes Twisting Wires Easy

When you have multiple or heavy-gauge electrical wires to join, twisting on wire connectors by hand can be a real bear, even when they have wings on them. Several manufacturers have tools that make the job easier, but we especially like this one from Ideal Industries.

Ideal added a recess in the handle of several of its screwdrivers, conduit reamers and other tools. You just insert the wire connector into the star-shaped recess as shown. The recess and the tool’s large rubber grip make twisting wires much easier.

A person holds a wooden panel while installing it behind a mounted TV, surrounded by tools and a wooden shelf on a light-colored wall.

Hide Cords at Home

I decided to mount my flat-screen TV on the wall and place the game components below on a low table. The only downside was the bunch of unsightly cords hanging down the wall.

To hide the wires, I built a chase from plywood and painted it to match my walls. I used 1/2-in. plywood for the back and sides and hardboard for the front panel. — John Fontaine

Two metal clips grip twisted red and white wires around a circular magnetic object, set against a plain white background.

Wire Soldering Made Easier

I do some minor soldering for hobbies, and I always have problems holding the wires together to solder them — even when I’m using alligator clips to hold things in place. I’ve found that a simple washer simplifies the task.

I clamp the wires on each side of the washer with alligator clips. The hole in the washer gives me nearly 360-degree access to the solder joint. — Joseph Johnson

A hand holds a blue wire stripper, stripping insulation from a white wire, while other colored wires emerge from an electrical box on a red wall.

Easy Sheathing Stripper

Strip electrical cable sheathing with a sewing seam ripper! Slide the ripper up the cable to slice through the sheathing and expose the internal wires. — Martie Tompkins

A person manipulates a metal wire using soldering tools, attaching it to a wooden base with two metal rods, set against a textured wooden surface.

Soldering Stand

Ever try holding two strands of wire in one hand, a spool of solder in the other, and maneuver a soldering gun besides? Solder more effectively with this great tip from reader Randy Witmyer.

Cut a couple of six-inch pieces of wire from a coat hanger and crimp alligator clips on the ends. Drill holes in a board, stick in the alligator clip wires and clamp in the wire ends you’re soldering. You now have two hands free, one for the gun and one for the solder.

A hand applies red liquid adhesive to the damaged end of a charging cable, with tools and a bottle of adhesive set on a wooden surface.

Liquid Electrical Tape Can Rescue Your Broken Phone Charger

Charger cables for cell phones usually last only a few years before the insulation starts fraying on the ends. Replacement cables cost $10 and up, but there’s a cheaper solution.

If the insulation is cracked but the copper wire inside is still intact, try covering the crack with a couple of layers of liquid electrical tape.  Just let the cable dry completely before it touches anything.

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Cover Electrical Boxes While Removing a Popcorn Ceiling

Shut off the power to any electrical junction boxes in the ceiling and cover them with painter’s tape to keep the wiring dry when spraying water on the popcorn as you work to remove the texture from the ceiling.

Overlap the sides of the junction box with the tape, then trim around the perimeter with a utility knife, being careful not to nick the wires.

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Use a Flame Protector When Soldering

Whenever soldering near wood or flammable materials, make sure you protect them from the flame. Make use of a flame-resistant blanket. Hang one behind the joint you are working on to insulate the flammable material and prevent fires. A piece of sheet metal could be substituted in a pinch.

It is also beneficial to dampen the area around the soldering job with a spray bottle of water in order to prevent fires. And, as a precaution, always keep a fire extinguisher on hand.

A silver Dremel tool with a pointed tip is positioned diagonally, showcasing its adjustable features against a plain, reflective background.

Handy Butane Torch

Ideal for soldering, the Dremel VersaTip Butane Torch offers seven functions in a 14-piece kit. And it will help DIYers get the detail they require on projects, including melting, welding, shrinking, cutting and even removing paint.

FH14DJA_FISHWR_14

Keep Low-Voltage Wires Away From Electrical Cables

It’s tempting to fish low-voltage wires like coax and Cat-6 through existing holes occupied by electrical cables, but don’t do it! Even though insulated, the high-voltage current can interfere with the signal in the low-voltage wires. This could result in bad TV reception or unreliable internet service.

Drill a new hole, keeping the new low-voltage wire several inches away from electrical cables. It’s OK to run low-voltage wires perpendicular to cables, and it’s also OK to run low-voltage wires next to electrical wires that are encased in conduit or metal sheathing.

FAQ

What should I do if I encounter live wires?

You should always test bare wires with a non-contact or conventional voltage tester before touching them. That’s Rule Number One for anyone doing professional or DIY electrical work. If the tester indicates a live wire, locate the breaker for the circuit in the main panel and turn it off (don’t just rely on a wall switch, because someone could turn that on while you’re working). Test again and proceed only if the wire is dead.

What are some common mistakes to avoid in DIY electrical work?

Each mistake or code violation you make when doing DIY electrical work is a potential electrocution or fire hazard. Here are ten of the most common blunders:

  • Overloading electrical boxes;
  • Wrapping wire splices with electrical tape instead of using screw-on wire caps;
  • Mixing wire gauges in a circuit;
  • Forgetting to test wires before working on them;
  • Reversing hot and neutral;
  • Cutting wires too short;
  • Upsizing breakers without updating the wiring;
  • Using extension cords as permanent wiring;
  • Cutting wires too short;
  • Replacing an ungrounded two-prong receptacle with a three-prong one instead of with a GFCI receptacle.

The post 17 Handy Hints for DIY Electrical Work appeared first on Family Handyman.

]]> How to Change a Watch Battery https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-change-a-watch-battery/ Tue, 20 Jun 2023 14:57:02 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=project&p=547772 DIY your next battery change in minutes.

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It’s not my style to wear ritzy wrist watches. To me, a watch is a tool that serves a purpose — primarily, to tell time when I’m working or can’t easily access my cell phone.

I own a couple of Timex and G-Shock watches. I’ll wear a watch while riding my motorcycle, mountain biking or fly fishing an evening hatch on a nearby trout stream —  occasions when I need to keep track of time but prefer tucking my smartphone safely away.

I love these affordable watches because they’re easy to read, waterproof, sturdy and well-made, so they’ll last for years. The downside? Every couple of years, the battery dies and needs replacing. Instead of paying a jeweler to do it, let me show you how to change a watch battery in just minutes.

Determine the Battery Type

To change a watch battery, first determine what type of battery you need.

  • In many modern watches, the type of battery is often engraved directly on the rear cover or case back. Look for three digits starting with “3,” such as 371 or 395. There may also be a string of four to seven letters and numbers beginning with “SR,” “LR,” or “CR.”
  • If there’s no engraving, look for the model number. With that information, a quick internet search should turn up the required battery type.
  • If you don’t know the model number or can’t find the battery information on the internet, the dead battery will have the model number in it.

A watch back is displayed, showing stainless steel, markings, and a battery designation. It's partially obscured by a fabric strap in a neutral setting.

Open the Watch

Before I begin working with my watch face down, I place a piece of painter’s tape over the face to prevent scratches. Additionally, I lay a dark colored towel or T-shirt under the watch to make small metal parts more visible. And I wear nitrile or laytex gloves before touching anything inside the movement.

The case back of a watch can be attached several ways. Most Casio, Timex and other readily available watch brands use a screw-down or pressure-fit back.

  • Screw-down backs are easy to remove with a #0 or #0-2 Phillips head screwdriver. Just loosen the four corner screws.
  • Pressure fit backs, however, have no screws or indentations. Look for an inconspicuous tab to pry the case back off.

Two watch backs are shown side by side. One has a finger prying a tab, while the other displays screws for back removal.

When you find the case back tab, slide the blade of your pocket knife underneath it and twist your wrist to pry the case back off the watch. I’ve used other tools for this, like a mini flathead screwdriver, but I find that the fine blade edge of a quality pocket knife most effective.

A stainless steel watch back is held by a hand, with a knife near the spring bar. The background is dark and textured.

Replace the Battery

Gently open the watch case back and view the battery.

Some watches may have a plastic spacer and/or rubber gasket that must be gently removed to see the battery. These are not all symmetrically shaped. To ensure you reinstall them properly, note how they sit inside the watch. Take a photo for a visual reminder.

  • Using a plastic tweezers or gloved hand, remove the dead battery, noting the side that faces upward.
  • Insert the replacement battery into the cavity so it’s situated the same way as the battery you removed.
  • Before replacing the back and any gaskets or spacers, peak under the painter’s tape or listen to the movement to verify the watch is working again.

A hand, gloved and poised, removes a battery from a watch's compartment while the watch case and back lie on a dark, textured surface.

Reassemble the Watch

Replace the gasket and/or spacer in the same manner as you found it initially. If your watch has a screw-on back, secure with the four Phillips head screws in each corner.

For pressure-fit backs, this task is more difficult.

  • Fold your cloth over so you have two or three layers under the watch face.
  • Use any text written on the back, or battery indentation on the inside of the case back, to align it on the watch.
  • Press the watch case back against the table (and cloth) with your thumbs until you hear a faint snap. If you’re having trouble, use something cylindrical roughly the same size as the case back, like a wooden dowel or quality flashlight, to apply more even pressure until it snaps into place.

A hand grips a flashlight pressing down onto a watch's case back, resting on a textured black towel.

The post How to Change a Watch Battery appeared first on Family Handyman.

]]> How to Build Faux Basement Windows That Provide Real Light https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/build-faux-basement-windows-that-provide-light-and-look-real/ Thu, 12 Jan 2023 19:14:43 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=project&p=502868 Want to bring daylight into a finished basement without the labor and cost of adding an egress window? Here’s a quick, effective way to gain the light along with the illusion of a beautiful new window. You won’t get any views of the outdoors, but there’s often not much to see out of a below-grade basement window anyway.

We used super-thin LED light panels with adjustable color temperature, set in easy-to-build window frames. There's a little electrical work required to bring power to the panels, but the lights are remote controlled so you don’t have to add a switch.

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A cozy living room features a gray sofa adorned with cushions, a coffee table with decor, and plants beside windows covered with white blinds.

An LED panel stands next to multiple frames labeled A, B, C, D, E, and F, indicating their positions in a construction or assembly context.

Cutting List

Overall dimensions: 55-in. H x 31-in. W x 1-3/4-in. D

KEYQTY.PARTDIMENSION
A2Front frame top and bottom3/4″ x 4″ x 31″
B2Front frame sides3/4″ x 4″ x 47″
C2Back frame top and bottom3/4″ x 4″ x 23″
D2Back frame sides3/4″ x 4″ x 55″
E2Top and bottom trimCut to fit
F1Side trimCut to fit

Build the Front Frame

The frame consists of a front and a back, each cut from 3/4-inch medium density fiberboard (MDF). Determine the frame size needed for your light panel, then cut the front and back frame pieces. We chose a four-inch wide frame for our LED panel. You’ll have to decide what looks best in your room.

The front and back frames are the same size, but the lengths of some parts differ, so the joints of the two frames overlap. Assemble the front frame with glue and pocket screws.

A hand holds a power drill, driving a screw into a wooden panel. Nearby, scattered screws rest on a table with markings suggesting a workshop environment.

Rabbet the Back Frame

Cut rabbets on the back inner edges of the back frame. These should be deep enough to allow the LED panel to sit flush with the back side of the frame. For my LED panel, the rabbets are about 3/8-in. x 3/8-in.

A hand feeds a rectangular piece of MDF through a table saw, creating a rabbet cut for an LED panel in a woodworking environment.

Attach the Back Frame

Attach the back frame to the back of the front frame with glue and finish nails. If the top and/or bottom of your window frame will be visible, glue filler strips in the gaps at the top and bottom created by the rabbets.

A person uses a pneumatic nailer to secure wood pieces together on a workbench, with a bottle of glue and tool storage nearby.

Add the Trim

Corner trim is typical for window trim. Because our window frame is painted, I needed trim only on the face of the frame, so I used pine screen molding. Attach the trim with brad nails and wood glue. Putty the holes and sand off the excess when the putty dries.

A person positions screen molding over a wooden frame on a worktable, surrounded by woodworking tools and a bottle of glue in a workshop environment.

Paint the Frame

Sand the entire frame with 150-grit sandpaper, easing any sharp edges. Once you’ve sanded the frame, prime and paint it.

A person rolls white paint onto a wooden picture frame, positioned on a workbench with a paint can and tray nearby, surrounded by unfinished walls.

Set the LED Light Panel

Lay a light bead of silicone in the rabbet and set the LED panel into it. You can skip this step if your panel is snug in the rabbet and won’t tip out while you’re installing the window.

A man holds a blue panel above a wooden table, preparing to attach it to a frame in a workroom with wooden walls and tools.

Run the LED Panel Wiring

Once you’ve determined the exact location of your window, cut a hole in the drywall to accept the LED panel’s wiring box. Tap into a nearby outlet and run NM-B cable from the outlet to the hole, leaving plenty of extra cable. Be sure to first turn off power to the circuit you’re working on and verify it’s off with a non-contact voltage tester.

A man cuts a hole in a green wall using a tool, wearing protective gear, while a level rests on the floor nearby.

Power the LED Panel

Hook up the conductors in the cable to their corresponding terminals on the LED panel. Secure the cable to the wiring box with a cable clamp.

A hand connects wires with wire connectors inside an electrical box on a blue surface, using pliers nearby. Components like a cable clamp and loose connectors are visible.

Hang the Window

Using three-inch trim screws, hang the window, driving the screws into the wall studs.

A person drills into a wall using a power drill, aligning a level above a doorframe in a light green room.

Fill the Screw Holes

Fill the screw holes with wood putty or spackling. When the putty dries, sand it flush and prime. Give the entire window a final coat of paint.

A putty knife applies filler to a small hole in white trim, while a container of repair compound is held in the other hand against a green wall.

Hang the Blinds

To complete the illusion of an actual window, hang blinds inside the window frame. We found leaving the blinds slightly open really sells the look of daylight coming in.

A man is installing white blinds above a door frame in a light green room. He holds the blinds carefully, focusing on the installation process.

The post How to Build Faux Basement Windows That Provide Real Light appeared first on Family Handyman.

]]> Common Dryer Repairs You Can Do Yourself https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/common-dryer-repairs-you-can-do-yourself/ Thu, 22 Dec 2022 18:21:38 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=501578 Dryer making noises or just not working? Before you call a pro, check for these common dryer repairs that you can take care of yourself.

The post Common Dryer Repairs You Can Do Yourself appeared first on Family Handyman.

]]> Here’s the first thing to know about dryer repair: You can solve some common dryer troubles yourself. There’s no need to find a technician, schedule a service call or pay hundreds dollars for dryer repair.

The dryer repair fixes we show in this article correct about 90 percent of dryer breakdowns. Most repairs take about an hour, but set aside extra time to locate replacement parts.  Aside from basic tools like a socket set and screwdrivers, you may need a continuity tester or multimeter to diagnose the problem.

Unplug Your Dryer Before Repairing It

The first step in any appliance repair is to make sure it’s getting electricity. Unplugged cords and tripped breakers are a leading cause of appliance “breakdowns.”

How to Disassemble a Dryer


Most kinds of dryer repair require some disassembly of the outer cabinet so you can get at the parts inside and you might not even need a dryer repairman. Dryer disassembly is slightly different depending on where the lint filter is located. For gas dryers, most repairs require that you remove the top and front (not the back or sides) to access the parts.

If your dryer’s lint filter is inside the front door, disassemble it this way: First, remove the screws at each corner of the control panel. Flip the panel up and back to expose the screws in the top panel. Remove the screws, then pull the top toward you and lift it off. To open the bottom panel, release the spring catches by shoving a putty knife into the slot just above them. With the bottom panel open, you can remove the front panel by removing two screws at the top and two at the bottom.

If your filter slides into the top of the dryer, remove the screws alongside the filter slot. Using a putty knife, release the two spring catches located under the top panel at the front. Tilt the top panel up like a car hood and remove the screws that hold the front panel in place.

How to Fix a Dryer That Won’t Start

If your dryer seems absolutely dead when you turn it on, chances are the door switch is bad or the plunger is broken or bent. Door switches wear out from normal use, but repeatedly slamming the door can speed up their demise.

Start by checking the plunger located on the door for dryer troubleshooting. If it’s missing or bent, replace it. If the plunger checks out, the next step of dryer troubleshooting is to remove the top cabinet panel to gain access to the door switch. See the disassembly instructions.

Test the switch for continuity. If the switch is good, test the thermal fuse mounted on the blower housing. However, if you have a gas dryer with the lint filter in the door, access the thermal fuse by opening the bottom panel. If the filter slides into the top of the machine, remove the entire front panel. On an electric dryer, remove the rear service panel.

If you don’t get a continuity reading from the thermal fuse, do NOT simply replace it. A blown thermal fuse is a warning that you have other serious problems—either a malfunctioning thermostat or a clogged vent. Fix those before continuing the dryer repair and replacing the fuse.

What to Do if Your Dryer Is Making Noises

If your dryer is making thumping or rumbling sounds, the most likely culprit is worn out drum support rollers. Replace all of them. If the noise continues, replace the tensioner roller (see below). Since it takes longer to disassemble the machine than to actually replace the rollers and belts, we recommend replacing both of them at the same time.

Dryer Isn’t Heating

If you’re dryer isn’t drying clothes, the first thing to do is check the airflow from the dryer vent tube. It gets clogged with lint, preventing airflow and causing it to take a long time to dry clothes, if it’ll dry them at all. If that’s not it, there are a few other common fixes for a dryer that isn’t drying, everything from checking the breaker box to cleaning the lint filter.

However, there are other problems that could cause a dryer to tumble but not heat. If that’s the case, check the thermal fuse for continuity. If the thermal fuse checks out, move on to the radiant sensor, if you have a gas dryer. It monitors the igniter and powers up the gas valve coils when the igniter reaches peak temperature.

A bum sensor will stop the whole show. Test it for continuity and replace it if it fails. If the sensor is good, disconnect the electrical connector to the igniter and check it for continuity. Again, replace it if it fails the continuity test.

If both the radiant sensor and the igniter pass the test, replace the gas valve coils. To replace them, remove the retaining plate, unplug the sensors and pull them off the gas valve.

If the thermal fuse on your electric dryer checks out, test the heater element for continuity. Replace the element if you don’t get continuity.

Dryer Doesn’t Rotate

It might be a broken belt. To replace the belt, remove the front cabinet panel and lift the entire drum out of the cabinet. Then, fire up your shop vacuum and suck out all the lint. Then spin the tensioner roller by hand to see if it runs smoothly and examine it for cracks. Replace the tensioner if it fails either test.

Reinstall the drum and wrap the new belt around it (ribs facing the drum). Some tensioners are mounted behind the motor, so they’re difficult to see from the front access panel. You’ll have to do this by feel. Reach your hands around the blower housing and lift the tensioner up while you route the belt around the motor pulley.

Dryer Door Won’t Stay Shut

If your dryer door won’t stay closed, chances are the latch is either bent or missing, or the strike is worn. The fix is cheap and easy. Buy the parts from any appliance parts store. Then grab pliers, a couple of small, straight-slot screwdrivers and a roll of masking tape.

Grab the bent or broken latch and yank it out. Then install the new one, pushing in firmly until the locking tabs seat. Next, protect the door’s finish with tape and remove the old strike. Jam a small screwdriver into the strike and bend the metal locking tab inward. Pry upward with a second screwdriver to pop it out (Photo 2). Snap in the new strike and you’re back in the laundry business.

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]]> Rewiring a House: How To Hire a Pro https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/rewiring-a-house/ Fri, 16 Dec 2022 17:08:46 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=498551 Rewiring a house is a major undertaking. An electrical inspector offers tips on hiring the right pro for the job.

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]]> You love your house. It’s in a great neighborhood with all the features your family needs. Sure, it was built half a century ago, but that’s part of its charm! Still, it would be nicer with a modernized electrical system to better power your appliances and technology.

To do that, you’ll need a licensed electrical contractor. We’ll outline what to consider when hiring one so you end up a happy, satisfied homeowner with a properly rewired home.

Can Rewiring a House Be a DIY Project?

Generally, no. Completely rewiring an existing home is not a DIY project unless you have advanced or professional-level experience and knowledge, not to mention buckets and buckets of spare time. Only a tiny percentage of DIYers should take on such a large, complex project.

Electrical Contractor’s Roles and Responsibilities

Before you hire a contractor to rewire your home, it’s important to understand what you can reasonably expect.

The contractor has certain business responsibilities that go well beyond satisfying their customers. Keep in mind your project is not their only project. They must create a plan for the work you want and order materials while managing other customer projects, supervising their workforce, juggling unexpected problems and generally try to keep everyone happy.

However, there are certain things you can (and should!) expect from your contractor:

  • A thorough assessment of your home and the existing wiring system: After this pre-project assessment, they should let you know how much of the existing wiring can be saved or must be removed, as well as any recent updates required by the electrical code.
  • Meeting with you to carefully review your project checklist, budget and timeline: The contractor needs to know precisely what you want accomplished. What is your goal or vision? Are you simply looking to update your home to code to sell it? Or are you planning to stay for years and want all of the newest smart-home technology?
  • Gathering nameplate information from all your appliances and equipment, existing or new: Some appliances, like your refrigerator, require more power than others.
  • Proper preparation to start the job: This includes drawing up all required documents (contract, plans and specifications); applying for required permits and inspections; and coordinating with the electric utility if you’re upgrading your main service panel.
  • An agreement on the frequency of project updates: You and the contractor have an obligation to each other to respond to questions and issues in a timely manner. The road to successful completion is a two-way street. When it’s all done and you look back at what contributed to the success of the project, effective communication should be listed right alongside all of the hard work, sweat and tears.
  • A final walkthrough and inspection of any punch list items: Make sure the contractor had the local electrical inspector come by for a final look before this walkthrough. If the contract is complete, all inspections have been made and you’re completely satisfied, there is one last task: Paying the final invoice. Consumer protection agencies advise not to make final payment until the project is complete.

How To Find and Hire an Electrical Contractor

You’re about to enter into what could become a long-term relationship, and maybe even a rewarding friendship. We can’t stress enough how important it is to take your time and do your homework when hiring a reputable contractor.

Licensing agencies offer good tips and consumer guides on how to hire contractors. Along with that information, keep this advice in mind:

  • Look for a trail of happy customers: Talk to neighbors, friends and family who have had electrical work done to their satisfaction. Ask all prospective contractors for a list of their previous customers and references.
  • Contact the regulatory agency that licenses contractors: Contractors are often licensed by the city, county or state. Always start with your city; they will point you in the right direction. To obtain a license, a contractor may have to take a written examination, show proof of liability and worker’s compensation insurance, bonding and continuing education. Licensing programs are in place to protect consumers. Hiring unlicensed handypeople or contractors could become your worst nightmare, and you may not get any help from the regulatory agency if you hire unlicensed workers. Also check if any complaints have been filed against the contractors, or, worse yet, they’ve been involved in enforcement actions or lawsuits.
  • Make the final decision: Competition is good, and so is competitive pricing. Interview at least three contractors and let them know you are getting bids from others. Also tell them you’re conducting a background check with the licensing agency. Remember: The lowest price may not be from the most reputable contractor.

The choice can be difficult, but don’t just roll the dice and hope for the best. It really comes down to trust. Who are you going to trust with the keys to your home, and who can you trust to complete the project in a professional and timely manner? Let those answers be your guide to the right contractor.

The post Rewiring a House: How To Hire a Pro appeared first on Family Handyman.

]]> How To Wire a Four-Way Switch https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/wiring-a-4-way-switch/ https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/wiring-a-4-way-switch/#respond Wed, 12 Oct 2022 17:12:00 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=project&p=480437 Switches are one of the simplest electrical devices. When closed, current passes through it and a light, appliance or device turns on. When you open the switch, current has nowhere to go and the light goes off.

Wiring switches can be confusing, especially with three-way and four-way switches. Three-way switches control light(s) from two locations, like the top and bottom of a stairway. When you add a four-way switch into the circuit, you can control light(s) from three locations, like the entrance to a big family room with three doors from the kitchen, the hall and the back porch.

Here we'll show you how to wire a four-way switch. Four-way switches must be installed into the circuit in between two separate three-way switches. We brought power to the first three-way switch box, which is common, but other configurations exist.

Before starting any electrical project, plan your circuitry and the best route for cables. Type NM cable (nonmettallic sheathed) is expensive, so do some homework and make sure you buy the correct size and quantity of cable. And, most importantly, make sure power is off by testing all circuits with a non-contact voltage tester.

Always consult a licensed electrician if you need help. Safety first; this project is not for a novice DIYer.

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Wiring diagram showing a 4-way switch setup with a power source, connecting two 3-way switches and a light bulb, indicating input and output.

Note: this is a complicated wiring setup that requires a solid understanding of basic home electronics. 

Pull Cables to Switch Locations

Bring these cables to your switch boxes and light(s):

  • 14/2 (black, white, ground) from panel to first three-way switch.
  • 14/3 (black, red, white, ground) from first three-way switch to four-way switch.
  • 14/3 (black, red, white, ground) from four-way switch to second three-way switch.
  • 14/2 (black, white, ground) from second three-way switch to light(s).

Remember, four-way switches only work if they’re installed in the circuit in between two three-way switches. You can have as many intervening four-way switches as you want in the lighting control circuit, but they have to be bookended by two three-way switches.

Always know what you’re working on. Is it a circuit rated at 15 amperes? Is it a 20 amp circuit? The size of the circuit breaker in the electrical panel determines the rating of the branch circuit.

Here we have a branch circuit originating at a 15 amp circuit breaker, with 14 American Wire Gauge (AWG) cable and light switches rated at 15 amps. Whenever you replace existing light switches, make sure the replacement switches have the same rating.

A blue electrical box with wires connected sits on a wooden surface, with one screw visible and markings indicating wire types nearby.

Prep the Cables

  • Cut three six-inch pieces of copper grounding wire from a scrap piece of 14-gauge cable.
    • These are called pigtails and they’re handy. A pigtail is used when splicing several grounding wires together in a switch box, but where you only have one green grounding screw terminal on the light switch. For safety, light switches must be connected to an equipment grounding wire.
  • Remove the exterior sheath from the NM cables inside your switch boxes.
    • Leave at least six inches of wire in box to work with. Be generous, but not so much that the wires and switches won’t fit in the box.
  • With lineman’s pliers, take the two bare grounding wires in each box and twist them together with a grounding pigtail. Trim off any uneven ends of the wires.
    • Spin on a wire nut until tight.
    • Make a hook in the free end of the pigtail with wire strippers or needle-nose pliers.
    • The hook will wrap around the screw terminal in the same clockwise rotation when tightening the screw.

A blue electrical box contains twisted wires connected with red wire nuts, alongside a switch and pliers, on a flat surface.

Wire First Three-Way

  • Attach the hooked end of the grounding pigtail clockwise around the green screw terminal and tighten with a screwdriver.
  • Splice neutral wires (white wires) together and push to the back of the box.
    • The National Electrical Code (NEC) requires neutral wires to be installed at switch box locations for connection to electronic devices like dimmers, occupancy sensors, night lights and other lighting controls. Here, the basic three-way and four-way switches do not need a connection to the white neutral wire.
    • When splicing, twist together wires and trim off any uneven ends with lineman’s pliers before spinning on a wire nut.
  • Attach the black wire from the 14/2 cable (from the power source) to the black, or common, screw terminal on the switch. The common screw terminal is usually identified as a different color than the two “traveler” terminal screws.
  • Attach the black and red wires, called travelers, from the 14/3 cable to the brass screws, one wire on each screw terminal.
    • Travelers carry current between switches, depending on which switch contacts are activated internally within the body of the switch.
    • Hook each wire around the screw clockwise and tighten.

A light switch is installed in a blue electrical box, connected to multiple wires, on a wooden surface, ready for use.

Wire the Four-Way

  • Splice the grounding wires together as before and attach the grounding pigtail to the green screw on the four-way switch.
  • Splice the neutrals together and push them to the back of the box.
  • Attach the black and red traveler wires from the first three-way switch to the terminals labeled “INPUT” or “IN” on the four-way switch.
    • Pro tip: Use the screw terminals on the switch, not the holes or “push in” options on the back of the switch. Using the screw terminals is a safer, better connection.
  • Attach the other 14/3 black and red traveler wires from the second three-way switch to the “OUTPUT” or “OUT” terminals on the four-way switch.
  • When you’re done, the incoming black and red travelers should be connected to the black screw terminals, and the outgoing black and red travelers should be connected to the brass screw terminals.

A light switch with wires attached is placed on a flat, brown surface. Nearby, red wire connectors are visible, connecting to two bundled wire cables.

Wire the Second Three-Way

  • Repeat Step 3.
  • This time, the 14/2 cable will go from the second three-way switch to the light.
    • As before, attach the black wire from the 14/2 cable to the common (black) screw terminal on the three-way switch.
  • Attach the 14/3 travelers in the same configuration you did on the first three-way switch.

A black switch is mounted in a blue electrical box, with various colored wires connected inside, set against a beige wall.

Button Things Up

  • Pro tip: It’s always good to wrap electrical tape around the perimeter of the switch and over the screw terminals. The tape helps prevent an inadvertent connection between the grounding wires in the box and the screw terminals on the switch.
  • Push switches into boxes and align (level and plumb) the switches before tightening the mounting screws all the way in.
  • Attach the switch faceplates.
  • At your light location, wire the light with the 14/2 black, white and grounding wires.
  • Back at the electrical panel, wire the breaker or call a licensed electrician to bring power to your new switches.

Three electrical switches are mounted on a wooden board, wired with cables, against a plain wall; numeric labels indicate wiring specifications.

Want To Learn More? Here’s How To Wire a Three Way Switch:

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]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/wiring-a-4-way-switch/feed/ 0 8 Best Circuit Breaker Finders https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/best-circuit-breaker-finders/ https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/best-circuit-breaker-finders/#respond Fri, 16 Sep 2022 16:29:17 +0000 Organizing your electrical panel doesn't have to be intimidating. Find and label unknown circuits safely with these best circuit breaker finders.

The post 8 Best Circuit Breaker Finders appeared first on Family Handyman.

]]>

A digital circuit breaker finder consists of a transmitter and receiver, designed for locating circuit breakers, set against a light blue grid background.

Best Basic Circuit Breaker Finder

Klein is a big name in electrical, and the affordable Klein ET300 circuit breaker finder doesn’t disappoint. For about $30, this popular model calibrates quickly and emits a clear, loud tone and flashing light when it finds the right breaker. The ET300’s transmitter works up to 1,000 feet from the panel, too, making it a standout in this price range.

This rugged product features an auto-off feature to conserve battery life. The ET300’s two-year warranty is better than similarly-priced models from other manufacturers.

64.2836% OFF$41.45 at Amazon

A circuit breaker finder set, featuring a green receiver with sensitivity adjustment and a transmitter displaying wiring status indicators, placed on a blue grid background.

Best Manual-Adjustment Circuit Breaker Finder

All circuit breaker finders require calibration. Auto-calibration is convenient but less sensitive than manual. The Extech CB10 includes a manual adjustment knob, perfect for fine-tuning the receiver when you get close to the right breaker.

Plug in the transmitter and move the receiver over the breakers in the panel. Slowly adjust the knob with your thumb to decrease the sensitivity and slow the pace of the beeps. As you home in on the right breaker, the receiver will beep at only the one you’re trying to identify.

$44.99 at Amazon

A yellow circuit breaker finder and an adapter set are displayed. They are designed for identifying electrical circuits, placed on a light blue grid background.

Best Hands-Free Circuit Breaker Finder

Sperry’s popular CS61200 comes with all the functionality you’d expect in a circuit breaker finder — receiver, transmitter, receptacle tester. But it stands out for its hands-free operation.

Plug the transmitter into the outlet you’re trying to identify. Back at the electrical panel, stick the receiver right to the metal frame as you identify the breaker. Magnets on the back mean you don’t have to juggle the receiver as you hold the probe to the panel.

85.8041% OFF$50.59 at Amazon

Klein Tools Et310 Ac Circuit Breaker Finder With Integrated Gfci Outlet Tester

Best Circuit Breaker Finder, With GFCI Tester

For just a few dollars more than the basic model, the Klein ET310 doubles as a GFCI receptacle tester. Just plug the transmitter in to a GFCI-protected circuit and click the button. If the GFCI works, you’ll hear a click and the indicator lights will go out. (Reset the receptacle or breaker.)

The transmitter also checks for other wiring problems. Indicator lights have eight configurations so you know exactly what’s wrong. When you’re done, plug the transmitter into the receiver’s storage dock and toss it into your tool bag. Never lose your circuit breaker finder/receptacle tester again!

$49 at Amazon

A blue circuit detector set rests against a light blue geometric background. The receiver stands tall beside the smaller transmitter, used for identifying circuit breakers.

Best Bargain Circuit Breaker Finder

The Circuit Breaker Detective from Hi-Tech only costs $20 and gets rave reviews from verified purchasers at Harbor Freight.

“Does the job for cheaper. Comparable products are considerably more expensive,” writes Richie W. Another purchaser, Ron, writes: “Best circuit breaker tracer I have ever used. More reliable than some $700 brands I have used in the past.”

The Circuit Breaker Detective works on 120V household circuits and doesn’t require manual calibration. It won’t test your GFCIs or check your receptacle wiring. But for a basic finder, it’s hard to beat that price.

Shop Now

A yellow circuit finder and various connectors are arranged on a light blue grid background. The device identifies electrical circuits for troubleshooting.

Best Circuit Breaker Finder Kit

Zircon’s Breaker Pro ID 300 kit comes packed with accessories.

Besides Zircon’s popular receiver and transmitter pair, you get a light socket adapter, alligator clamps for bare wires and multiple plug adapters for receptacles — including 240V. It even comes with a battery and a sturdy carrying case. And it’s one of the few entry-level circuit breaker finders rated for circuits up to 300V AC, so you know it’s tough.

At a little more than $200, it’s a splurge. But Zircon’s extended voltage range and the kit’s comprehensive accessories make it easier to justify spending a little more.

Shop Now

A yellow circuit breaker finder set is displayed. The main device identifies circuits, while the smaller transmitter checks wiring indicators. They're set against a light blue background.

Best Mid-Range Circuit Breaker Finder

If you’re looking for a step up from the crowded entry-level market, the Ideal 61-534 circuit breaker finder makes the grade. Besides automatic and self-calibrating circuit breaker-finding functionality, this unit doubles as a non-contact voltage tester and works on circuits up to 300V AC.

Just hold the receiver up to an electrical cord or receptacle. The Ideal 61-534 automatically switches to voltage mode to let you know if a circuit is live. The receptacle tester checks and identifies eight wiring configurations, and the receiver shuts itself off after 10 minutes to save the battery.

Shop Now

A black carrying case contains several electrical testing tools, including circuit tracers and probes, organized neatly alongside user instructions in a light background.

Best Circuit Breaker Finder for Professionals

If you want to use what the pros use, go with the Ideal SureTrace. Every electrical contractor I’ve worked for had the SureTrace on the jobsite. It finds breakers on live and dead circuits, it detects shorts and it traces circuits behind walls. One time I used it to trace a circuit buried in concrete!

This circuit breaker finder costs almost $2,000, making it impractical for homeowners. But if you want to know the capabilities of what’s out there, or you’re a pro looking to upgrade your tool kit, the Ideal SureTrace is the top of the line.

2013.806% OFF$1890 at Amazon

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]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/best-circuit-breaker-finders/feed/ 0 How to Build a DIY Infrared Sauna https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-build-an-infrared-sauna/ Wed, 03 Aug 2022 15:53:51 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=project&p=474421 There are many types of saunas on the market, including some that have existed for centuries. However, these days infrared saunas are all the rage. Infrared sauna therapy has many proven health benefits. It allows you to detoxify, relieving tension and stress, but can also help you burn calories and maintain clear healthy skin.

Read on to learn how to build your very own indoor infrared sauna.

The post How to Build a DIY Infrared Sauna appeared first on Family Handyman.

]]>

This modular design lets you construct the four walls, floor, roof, and benches of your indoor infrared sauna on-site, or build it and then transport your sauna to a remote location. The overall dimensions are 5-ft. wide x 4-ft. deep x 6-ft. tall. Build your sauna to the size that meets your needs.  Check out Fig. 1 to see how it all goes together.

Figure 1

Overall dimensions: 95-in. H x 6-in. W x 48-in. D.

Infrared Sauna Exploded Fig 1

Cutting List

KEYQTY.PARTDIMENSIONS
A2Floor Base Outer Frame Front & Back1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 60″
B2Floor Base Outer Frame Sides1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 45″
C2Floor Base Inner Frame Front & Back1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 57″
D5Floor Base Inner Frame Stringers1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 42″
E1Floor Base Plywood Floor3/4″ x 45″ x 57″
F4Front, Back Walls Top & Bottom Plates1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 57″
G4Side Wall Top & Bottom Plate1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 48″
H10Front, Back, Side Walls 2×2 Stud1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 72″
I4Front & Side Wall 2×4 Stud1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 72
J2Roof Frame Front & Back1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 55-3/4″
K5Roof Frame Studs1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 40-3/4″
L1Roof Deck3/4″ x 49-1/8″ x 61-1/8″
M14Roof Cedar Shiplap1/4″ x 3-1/2″ x 45″
N42Front Walls Cedar Shiplap1/4″ x 3-1/2″ x 17-9/16″
O21Back Wall Cedar Shiplap1/4″ x 3-1/2″ x 45″
P42Side Walls Cedar Shiplap1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 45″
Q2Side Wall T1-11 Siding9/16″ x 48″ x 75″
R1Front & Back Walls T1-11 Siding9/16″ x 48″ x 75
S1Front & Back Walls Filler T1-11 Siding9/16″ x 13-1/2″ x 75

Planning Your Infrared Sauna

  • Where to build it?
    • Creating a space for a home sauna can be as simple as transforming an existing closet or building two walls in a corner of your basement. Maybe you’d like your sauna to be a free-standing building outdoors in your backyard. It depends on your budget and how ambitious you are.
  • How big should it be?
    • That’s determined by how many people you want in the space at one time. Keep in mind the larger the room size, the more infrared panels you’ll need. Ideally, you want to keep the room small and the ceiling low. A sauna room measuring 4-ft. x 5-ft. x 6-ft. high can seat two people comfortably.
  • Power source
    • Locate the closest power source and the amp capacity of the circuit. You may need to hire an electrician to wire a designated circuit.
  • Calculating your space
    • Calculate your room volume to determine the number of infrared panels and the correct wattage you will need for your sauna to operate efficiently. Start by multiplying the width x depth x height to determine the cubic feet of your sauna. A 4-ft. x 5-ft. x 6-ft. high room = 120 cubic feet.
    • In general, you’ll need a minimum of 10 watts per one cubic foot. To determine the total watts needed, multiply the cubic feet x 10. So 120 cubic feet x 10 watts = 1,200 watts.
    • A standard infrared panel is 300 watts. Since our 120 cubic foot room requires 1,200 watts, we’ll go with four 300-watt panels.

A three-dimensional rectangular box measures 6 feet tall, 5 feet wide, and 4 feet deep, labeled as having a volume of 120 cubic feet.

Build the Floor Base

  • Now that you know the size of your sauna, it’s time to start building. Let’s start with the floor base. Cut and assemble four 2x4s for the outer frame.
  • Next, measure the inside of the outer frame to determine the dimensions for the inner frame. Then cut and assemble the inner frame, adding support boards evenly spaced as shown below.

A wooden frame supports a cut top panel, with measurements labeled. Grid lines provide a structured background for clarity in design.

  • Insert and attach the inner frame to the inside of the outer frame, letting the inner frame stick up 1-1/2-in. from the top edge of the outer frame.
  • Cut a piece of 3/4-in plywood the size of the base inner frame.
  • Before attaching the plywood floor to the base, insulate the spaces between each stud with 1-1/2-in. foam board insulation.
  • Attach the plywood to the floor base using 1-1/2-in. screws.

A person wearing safety glasses assembles a wooden frame on a worktable, surrounded by tools and storage containers in a workshop environment.

Building Walls

  • Refer to the cut list and cut all the 2x4s and 2x2s to length for all the walls.
  • To lay out the stud placement on the wall, hold the top and bottom boards together and draw lines where each stud will be attached. (See figures below.)

A hand uses a pencil to mark a wooden plank against a metal square on a workbench, surrounded by other pieces of wood.

Back wall

A blueprint illustrates a back wall frame, with dimensions and assembly details outlined. Vertical and horizontal lines indicate measurements and sections.

Front wall

A framed structure displays measurements for a wall, indicating dimensions and placement of vertical supports against a grid background.

Side walls

A side wall frame is illustrated, featuring vertical wooden studs spaced evenly, with labeled dimensions and annotations on a grid background for construction guidance.

  • Lay all the boards on a flat surface. Using 3-in. screws or nails, attach all the studs to the top and bottom board at the lines you made.

A man uses a power drill to secure wooden pieces on a workbench, surrounded by tools and a clean workshop environment.

Bracing

  • Add bracing between the studs on the back and side wall where the bench and infrared panels will be attached.

Hands use a drill to secure wooden frames onto a flat surface, surrounded by a workshop environment with tools and wooden panels.

Exterior Wall Covering

  • There are many wood siding products you can use to cover the exterior of your sauna’s walls. Choose what works for you and your budget. We went with T1-11 plywood siding.
  • Start by laying one of your side wall frames flat on your work surface, with the outside of the wall facing up. Place a sheet of siding on top of your wall frame keeping it flush with the bottom of the frame. Hold it in place with a few clamps or drive a few nails along the bottom edge.
  • Once the wall frame is square with the long edge of the siding, finish nailing it to all the studs using galvanized siding nails. Repeat this procedure on the other side wall.

A man lifts a large wooden board while wearing gloves and headphones. The workshop is filled with tools and stacked plywood in the background.

  • When attaching the siding to the front and back walls, let it hang over 2-1/4-in. on both sides of the wall frame. Since the front and back walls are five feet wide, fill in the remainder of the siding, being sure to let it hang over 2-1/4-in. off the other edge.
  • When the siding is securely fastened to the frame, cut out the door opening on the front wall using a wood router with a flush trim bit.

A person uses a router to carve grooves into a large wooden panel on a workbench, surrounded by tools and a workshop environment.

Insulating

  • At this point, before you insulate, run the wiring inside the walls for the infrared panels that heat the sauna. You can also run the wires on the outside of the walls after the sauna is assembled.
  • Now on to insulating the walls. Start by measuring the spaces between studs. Cut pieces of 1-1/2-in. foam insulation for each stud space with a table saw or long blade utility knife. The foam insulation friction fits into each stud space.

A man places insulation boards on a wooden frame located on a work table in a workshop filled with tools and materials.

Vapor barrier

  • Using a staple gun, cut and attach foil vapor barrier to the interior of all four walls.

A hand is using a stapler to secure aluminum foil to a wooden surface in a workspace, with tools and materials visible in the background.

  • Seal the edges and any seams with foil tape.

Hands apply silver tape onto a surface, with a utility knife and green cutter nearby on a wooden table, highlighting a DIY project.

 Cedar Shiplap

  • Before installing the cedar shiplap, you’ll need a 1/4-in. gap between the vapor barrier and the shiplap. This allows moisture to evaporate.
  • Cut and attach 1/4-in. x 1-1/2-in. wood strips onto each stud, the full length of all four walls.
  • For the side walls shiplap, start your first row 2-1/4-in. from the bottom and 1-1/2-in. from each side. Then attach the shiplap to each stud with 1-1/4-in. nails.
  • For the front and back wall shiplap, again start your first row of shiplap 2-1/4-in. from the bottom. But this time, do it only 1/2-in. from each side.

A person uses a nail gun on wooden panels placed on a workbench in a workshop, surrounded by a wooden backdrop and tools.

Assemble The Walls

  • Time to assemble the walls. Start by setting the back wall on the floor base. Have a helper hold it in place or attach a 2×4 from the edge of the wall to the floor base.
  • Set one of the side walls on the floor base and secure it to the back wall with bar clamps.
  • Check to see if the tops of the walls line up; this will assure your box is square. Then secure the two walls together using 5/16- x 4-in. structural screws. Attach the other side wall to the back wall in the same manner.
  • Set the front wall on the base and clamp all four walls together. Again, check to see if the tops of the walls line up. Then secure both side walls to the front wall with 5/16- x 4-in. structural screws.

A person adjusts a wooden panel while building a structure in a workshop, surrounded by tools, clamps, and an unfinished wooden frame.

Exterior wall

  • The plywood siding should be sealed with paint or a polyurethane finish.

A man is painting a wooden wall with a roller, applying a black coat on vertical slats. The setting appears to be indoors.

The Roof

  • Before you build the roof frame, measure the width and depth of the inside of your sauna. Then you can start building the frame to that dimension.
  • Attach the studs to the front and back boards using 3-in. screws.

A detailed blueprint shows a rectangular structure with labeled dimensions and sections divided into four equal parts, set against a grid background.

 Roof deck

  • Cut 3/4-in. plywood for the roof deck. Depending on the size of your roof, you may need to butt two pieces of plywood together or purchase a 5-ft. x 8-ft. sheet of plywood.

Attach the roof frame

  • Center the roof frame on the plywood deck and attach it using 1-1/2-in. screws from the underside of the plywood.

Insulation, vapor barrier and cedar shiplap

  • Insulate each stud space and attach a foil vapor barrier to the frame as you did the walls.
  • Cut and attach 1/4-in. wood strips to each stud as before.
  • Cut and attach cedar shiplap to the frame, keeping it flush on all four edges of the frame.

Wooden planks, a nailer, and insulation materials are arranged on a plywood deck, showcasing construction elements for a home improvement project.

Install the roof

  • With a helper, lift the roof assembly on top of the sauna walls and set it into place. Secure it with 3-in. lag screws along the top rim of the walls.

Bench

  • Infrared saunas typically have one bench about 24 inches deep and 18 to 24 inches from the floor.
  • This bench is a 2×4 cedar frame with 1×6 cedar decking attached to nailing cleats set inside the frames.
  • Start by measuring the width of the inside of your sauna, then make yourself a cut list. Cut all the boards on your list to length, assemble the frames and attach the nailing cleats.

Bench cutting list

Bench dimensions: 3-1/2-in. H x 56-in. W x 26-in. D.

KEYQTY.PARTDIMENSIONS
A2Front & Back Frame Boards1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 56″
C3Nailing Cleats1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 53″
D2Bench Frame Sides1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 23″
F9Bench Decking1″ x 5-1/2″ x 23″
  • Place the deck boards on the nailing cleats between the front and back boards with a 1/2-in. gap between each board. Attach the deck boards with 2-1/2-in. finishing nails or screws.

A man places wood pieces into a partially assembled wooden frame on a workbench surrounded by tools and wooden planks in a workshop.

Install benches

  • Attach the benches (level) to the back and side walls using 3-in. screws through the cedar shiplap into the bracing inside the walls.

A person uses a battery-powered drill to secure wood pieces together. The environment features wooden panels, suggesting an indoor construction or woodworking setting.

The Door

  • The door for your sauna could be as simple as a piece of plywood on hinges with a door pull. Some indoor saunas have large 1/2-in. thick glass doors. Here’s the most important thing: For safety, your sauna door should always open out and never have a lock.
  • We decided to make our glass panel door with 1-1/2-in. cedar boards and, to save money, tempered glass cutting boards instead of regular tempered glass.

Infrared Panels and Controls

  • Infrared panels
    • Infrared panels come in many sizes and wattage outputs, enabling you to custom fit panels to the size of your sauna room. A common 300-watt infrared panel measures 30-in. x 20-in. The easily installed panels come with protective wooden heat guards. Contact an infrared panel manufacturer/distributor for a sauna room infrared heater package including panels, digital controller and sauna light.
  • Control panels
    • The control panel is the brain of your sauna. There are several types available in a range of prices. The most affordable is a simple on and off mechanical timer switch. The more expensive digital control panels monitor the temperature, time and light; some even include a remote control.
  • Lighting
    • Mood lighting is a must in your sauna. LED strip light can be installed around the perimeter of the ceiling or under the bench and can be connected to the control panel.
  • Audio
    • You may want to consider installing an audio system in your sauna. Or simply use your phone with a Bluetooth speaker.

Four wooden frames with black mesh are arranged together, while a small rectangular object lies nearby on a grid-patterned background.

Installing and Wiring Infrared Panels

  • Mounting infrared panels
    • The infrared panel should not make direct contact with the wall. It is recommended to have a foil barrier and a 1/4-inch gap between the wall and the infrared panel.
    • Attach the infrared panels with finish screws through the panel frame into the walls of your sauna.
  • Wiring panels
    • Depending on the manufacturer, some infrared panels plug into a power box that distributes power to each panel. The control panel, thermostat and lights also connect to the power box. Other infrared panels are hard-wired in series directly to a control panel.
    • We always recommend hiring a licensed professional to install any gas or electric appliance.

A wall features an infrared panel attached with finish screws, surrounded by a foil barrier and a spacer block for insulation.

The post How to Build a DIY Infrared Sauna appeared first on Family Handyman.

]]> Guide To Wiring Diagrams https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/guide-to-wiring-diagrams/ Thu, 30 Jun 2022 20:43:28 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=470775 Have a DIY electrical project but find wiring diagrams confusing? Take them step by step, and soon you'll be wiring like a pro.

The post Guide To Wiring Diagrams appeared first on Family Handyman.

]]> I laugh about it today. But when I was a second-year apprentice and my foreman handed me a wiring diagram, I briefly panicked. I saw a bunch of boxes and a lot of seemingly randomly drawn lines. It looked like a jumble of spaghetti, with square meatballs.

“Sure, I’ve seen those before,” I said eagerly. Luckily, I knew my limits, so my next words were: “But can you go over it with me?”

Three years later, I’m wiring the lighting control system (a network of lights, switches, sensors and relays) for a computerized tomography (CT) room at a major hospital. How did I go from uncertain apprentice to wiring diagram whiz?

For me, it was time and patience, often on the part of my instructors. But I’ll bet you don’t have three years to figure this out — you have an electrical project right now. So, how do you read an electrical wiring diagram? And what are they, anyway?

Let’s walk through them together.

What Is a Wiring Diagram?

A wiring diagram is a simplified representation of the conductors (wires) and components (devices, lights, motors, switches, sensors and more) that make up an electrical circuit or electrical system. Some wiring diagrams show the exact wire connections that must be made for the system to work, while others offer a graphical representation of how electricity flows through a circuit.

Wiring diagrams can be simple (a single receptacle) or complex (lighting controls in the CT room). A receptacle wiring diagram features pictures or line drawings of the receptacle and the power supply wires. It shows the installer exactly where on the receptacle to attach the hot, neutral and ground electrical wires.

More complex systems like the CT room have a diagram showing the system’s overall layout, as well as more detailed diagrams of the individual components and how they’re tied together.

Wiring diagrams are often easier to interpret than written directions, especially for people unfamiliar with electrical systems and concepts. If you can take your finger and trace a line from one place to another, you can follow a wiring diagram. “Here are a few tips for drawing your electrical plan.

What Is a Wiring Diagram Used For?

A wiring diagram distills complex information into an easy-to-follow visual graphic. Wiring diagrams are great for installing electrical devices and troubleshooting when a system isn’t working.

Let’s say you want to install a movement sensor to turn off the lights and air conditioning when you’re not home. It might have six or more wires sticking out of it when you pull it out of the box. Which wire goes where? Do they all get connected? A wiring diagram lays it all out.

Wiring diagrams aren’t just for external components, like connecting the movement sensor to power, lights, heating, ventilation and air-conditioning (HVAC) equipment. Wiring diagrams also apply to internal wiring, like a circuit board inside a computer or washing machine.

Wiring diagrams can also represent how electricity flows in a circuit. These diagrams show the power source and voltage, as well as the loads (lights and equipment) and any components that affect the flow of electricity, like switches. This type, called a schematic, is most often used by engineers and other electrical professionals. Schematics are the electrical layout for a building and are typically part of blueprints.

How To Read a Wiring Diagram

First, find a reference point. This could be the power supply or the light or sensor that you’re installing. Look at the picture and find the wires coming off the device. Follow the lines to see where they terminate. They might not all go to the same place. The movement sensor will have some wires that go to a transformer, and others to HVAC equipment and lights.

If you see a dot at the intersection of two or more lines, splice those wires together. But if a line “jumps” over another one in a half-moon shape or crosses another with no dot, don’t splice them..

The wiring diagram shows where to connect each wire on the device. A receptacle diagram might use common electrical terms such as “Line In,” which means the hot wire from the power supply, “Neutral” and “Ground.” Or it could say “Black,” “White” and “Green.” You may also see it described as “L1, which is your hot wire, L2 is your neutral, and then your ground wire,” Cross says. Make the connections precisely as directed, or the device won’t work.

Diagrams showing electrical flow through a circuit use standardized symbols to represent electrical components. Ground is a vertical line with three successively smaller horizontal lines underneath. Switches are diagonal lines emanating from the line representing the electrical flow.

To read these diagrams, start at the power source and follow the line through all the components of the system.

Types of Wiring Diagrams

There are three basic types of wiring diagrams:

  • Wiring: Depicts electrical devices as drawings or pictures connected by lines representing wires. Wiring diagrams show specific electrical connections.
  • Pictorial: Shows how components are related to others on the same circuit, but contains less detailed information about electrical connections.
  • Schematic: Represents the flow of electricity through a circuit and its components. Drawn with standardized symbols. “Electricians use schematics and blueprints when working on new construction projects and renovations,” Cross says. “It’s like a map of the entire electrical system.”

Homeowners doing DIY electrical work are most likely to go with basic wiring and pictorial diagrams, usually included in the instructions for electrical devices. “Schematics are for professionals to follow,” Cross says, “It takes years of experience and training.”

About the Expert

  • Matt Cross is a licensed electrician in the State of Massachusetts. He has over ten years of industry experience in residential and commercial work.

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]]> Identifying the Different Types of Circuit Breakers https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/types-of-circuit-breakers/ Thu, 23 Jun 2022 20:51:17 +0000 Know these 5 types of circuit breakers. Your home, and your family, will thank you.

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]]> We’ve all been annoyed by a tripped circuit breaker. Whether you’re getting ready for a night out or cooking dinner on a major holiday, it usually happens at the worst possible time. To get on with your life, you probably just walk over to your electrical panel and reset the breaker. I’m an experienced electrician, and I do the same.

But how much do you know about these ubiquitous safety devices? Circuit breakers protect electrical circuits by stopping the flow of electricity when they detect too much current on the circuit. This “overcurrent” can be caused by having too many things plugged in at once, called an overload, or by sudden surges of electricity caused by electrical arcs and short circuits.

“When a circuit is overloaded, it can no longer safely handle the amount of electricity flowing through it,” says George Talbot, a licensed electrician with Mister Sparky in Georgia and Tennessee. When that happens, wires, insulation and even your devices can overheat, causing them to melt or catch fire.

Electrical fires can be particularly devastating because they can smolder undetected for a long time and it often happens when we’re least prepared. According to the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA), which publishes the National Electrical Code (NEC), over half of all deaths from electrical fires occur between midnight and 8 a.m. That’s why it’s so critical to have functioning circuit breakers.

Here are the most common circuit breakers found in your home.

Standard, Single-Pole Circuit Breaker

A single-pole breaker protects a single circuit in your home’s electrical system. This single circuit might power the lights in your living room or feed receptacles in your kitchen. Single-pole breakers take up one slot in your home’s electrical panel and typically protect 15-amp and 20-amp circuits.

Like other breakers, single-pole circuit breakers have a handle with three possible positions: On, Off and Tripped. When the circuit is on, the breaker allows electrical current to move through the circuit conductors from the outside transformer to the device or appliance, then back again in an endless loop. Electricity always wants to return to its source, so as long as the breaker doesn’t sense a problem or you don’t manually stop it, this cycle will continue indefinitely.

But let’s say you have a 20-amp circuit in your bathroom. It’s chilly in the morning, so you turn on your 1500-watt bathroom space heater, which draws about 12.5 amps. You step out of the shower and start to dry your hair with a standard 1875-watt hair dryer, which draws more than 15 amps. Your single-pole breaker trips, because you put more than 28 amps of electricity on a circuit designed for 20 amps.

If that happens occasionally, you can just go to the panel and reset the breaker. Unlike fuses, which were once common in older homes, breakers can be reset repeatedly. But don’t ignore breakers that constantly trip, especially if you don’t know what’s causing the trip (unlike the hair dryer overload). Call a licensed electrician for help.

Standard, Double-Pole Circuit Breaker

Double-pole breakers work the same way as single-pole breakers, but they protect circuits that power larger equipment, like air conditioners, ranges and dryers. These appliances need two hot wires to deliver enough current to run, so double-pole breakers have two wire terminals, and they take up two slots in your electrical panel.

When a double-pole breaker trips, it must sever electricity to both hot wires at the same time. Likewise, when you go to reset a tripped double-pole breaker, the handle allows you to reset both hots simultaneously. That’s actually an NEC requirement; if something goes wrong, the last thing you need to worry about is a half-hot circuit.

In addition to the two-pole breakers protecting your large appliances, your main breaker is also a double-pole breaker. “This is usually a larger switch located at the bottom or top of your breaker’s service panel,” Talbot says. It’s vitally important to turn off breakers before doing any work on your electrical panel. “Turning off the breaker is a crucial step before doing any type of electrical maintenance,” Talbot says.

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter Breaker

You’ve used ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) receptacles in your kitchen and bathrooms, but what about GFCI circuit breakers? It’s perfectly acceptable to protect circuits with GFCI breakers instead of relying on individual receptacles. When you need full-circuit protection, breakers are often the most economical and easiest way to go.

GFCIs protect people from a specific source of electrical shock: ground faults. Ground faults occur when electricity from a hot wire takes an unintentional path through conductive things that don’t normally carry electricity. This path could be a metal pipe in the wall, the outside of an appliance—or you.

To combat this danger, electricians like me install a deliberate path, colloquially called a “ground path,” to redirect this stray current back to the source. “When an outlet or device is grounded, it means there is a ground wire that is linked from the outlet to the electrical panel in order to act as a safety valve” for these stray currents, Talbot says.

GFCIs detect the amount of current going out to the load (what you’re powering) and compare it to the current coming back to the panel. If the difference between the two paths is more than six milliamps, the GFCI opens the circuit, stopping the flow of electricity. This happens in as little as 1/40 of a second.

The NEC requires GFCIs in places where water is a common hazard. Bathrooms, kitchens, garages, crawl spaces, outdoor receptacles and more must be GFCI-protected in new construction, remodels and repairs. Check with your local code authority for specifics.

Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter (AFCI) Breaker

Arc fault protection is a relatively new requirement in the NEC, first made mandatory for bedrooms in 2002. Since then, the NEC has expanded AFCI protection requirements to include nearly every room in your house, except bathrooms and basements. In new construction and remodels, AFCIs are replacing standard breakers as the most common breakers in your panel.

AFCIs protect your home from fires by monitoring circuits for dangerous electrical arcs. What’s an electrical arc? Imagine two wires connected under a wire nut. As long as the connection is tight, the current flows seamlessly through the splice. If that connection comes loose, the electricity will try to “jump” from one wire to the other to continue its path, creating an arc between the conductors.

This arc can happen anywhere there’s a loose connection, but if that arc happens in an old lamp cord behind the living room curtains or under your bed, for example, you could be looking at a dangerous situation. Any combustible material in the vicinity of that arc has the potential to catch fire.

An AFCI breaker detects these unintentional arcing events wherever they occur and immediately severs the flow of electricity to the circuit.

AFCI/GFCI Dual-Function Breaker

Kitchens and laundry rooms require GFCI and AFCI protection, so the dual-function breaker combines both levels of protection into one device. Before these breakers came about, a homeowner would have to use an AFCI breaker and a GFCI receptacle to achieve both levels of protection on one circuit.

If your house is newer, or if you’ve updated your electrical panel in the last few years, you may see these dual-function breakers in your panel instead of standard, GFCI or AFCI breakers.

About the Expert

  • Gerald Talbot is a licensed electrician with Mister Sparky. Talbot has electrical contracting licenses in Georgia and Tennessee and is the owner-operator of Mister Sparky in Chattanooga, Tennessee.

Sources

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]]> What’s a Bladeless Ceiling Fan and Does It Really Work? https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/bladeless-ceiling-fan-review/ Tue, 21 Jun 2022 23:09:47 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=469253 Ever hear of a bladeless ceiling fan? Neither had I. So we tried one out, and I have to say I'm still a bit confused.

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]]> I’m into lighting. Good or bad, it’s the first thing I notice in every space I set foot in. I’d even go as far as to say that if I could start my career over, I’d love to get into the lighting design field.

When chatting with friends on a recent outing, someone mentioned a bladeless ceiling fan. Bladeless? How could that be? Intrigued, I looked it up and found the modern and sleek Orren Ellis Integrated LED Bladeless Ceiling Fan.  The photos on Wayfair and its unique design hooked me, so I ordered one. It showed up on my doorstep a few days later.

What is the Orren Ellis LED Bladeless Ceiling Fan?

Orren Ellis is a home furnishings design brand specializing in contemporary furniture and lighting. Though it markets this 20-1/2-in.-wide product as bladeless, it just means the blades aren’t exposed; there’s a 13-inch fan hidden inside the frame. The perimeter features a dimmable two-inch-wide LED ring.

Operators control fan speed and the LED light with a compact remote control, which comes with batteries and a mounting harness.

The fan showed up in a large cardboard box, which contained more bright-white Styrofoam than actual fan components. The fan is small and light, weighing less than seven pounds. It shipped with a remote and a single page of vague installation instructions.

How We Tested It

Our small, windowless den seems like the perfect place for a new ceiling fan with a bright LED light. So I pulled out my electrical tools, shut off the breaker and got to work. I was curious to see how powerful the fan was, the brightness and dimmability of the LED light, and how user-friendly the remote control was.

Blade vs Bladeless Fan Performance Compared

First off, the images on Wayfair’s website don’t accurately portray the lighting’s design and size. The images show what seems to be a low-profile, surface-mounted light. Once I had the fan in my hands, I realized the images cut off more than half the body.  On top of that, three of the four listed dimensions were inaccurate. The biggest discrepancy: The fan’s opening is three inches larger than its actual size!

Because the fan uses an integrated LED light source, there are never any bulbs to change. But that means if the lights ever burn out, there’s no way to repair them without a fair amount of electrical knowledge and steady-handed soldering skills.

The fan was up in no time. Its ultra-light weight was an unexpected gift of the installation process. Once up, the Orren Ellis fan looked nice and the dimmable LED lights were surprisingly bright and bold.

The light has three color settings — warm yellowish, cool blueish, and a mixture of both that feels like normal incandescent light. For its size, the three-speed fan is breezy and powerful. Even the remote is foolproof and easy to comprehend.

Our Final Verdict

Though its size, shape, and description leave something to be desired, the Orren Ellis LED Bladeless Ceiling Fan has some redeeming qualities. Its bright and adjustable light, easy-to-use remote control and compact contemporary design make it perfect for small and dark spaces like basement bedrooms, dens and walk-in closets.

Pros

  • Compact size;
  • No bulbs to switch;
  • Bright and dimmable LED lights;
  • User friendly remote control;
  • Lightweight;
  • Modern design.

Cons

  • Small;
  • Unusual design.

Where to Buy an Oren Ellis

The Orren Ellis LED Bladeless Ceiling Fan with Remote Control is available from Wayfair.

Buy Now!

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]]> Amps vs. Volts vs. Watts vs. Ohms: What’s the Difference? https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/electrical-terms-explained-watts-volts-amps-ohms-diy/ Mon, 14 Mar 2022 22:24:35 +0000 Are you puzzled by electricity? Here are a few common electrical terms everyone should know.

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]]>

The basic components of electricity are relatively easy and logical to understand. Most electrical terms relate and get along with each other like a harmonious family. Before you tackle any electrical or home wiring project, familiarize yourself with the following terms so you can go about them smarter, safer and without apprehension.

What Is a Watt?

Watts are units of electric power. Think of wattage as electricity at work when heating or illuminating a room in your home. Take a portable electric space heater rated at 500 watts. The space heater consumes 500 watts of power when it’s turned on.

You’ll also encounter wattage when selecting light bulbs. To find an incandescent bulb that produces equivalent light to the burned-out bulb, you check the wattage. And appliance nameplates are often marked with the product’s wattage rating.

What Is a Volt?

Voltage is the pressure that forces electric current to flow though a wire.

In North America, utility systems typically deliver electricity to your home’s service panel at 240 and 120 volts. Major electrical appliances like ranges, clothes dryers, water heaters, air conditioning and space heating systems typically operate at 240 volts. Everything else runs on 120 volts.

What Is an Amp?

Amperage measures the rate that current flows through an electrical circuit. If voltage is like water pressure, amperage is like the rate of water flow. “Amps” is the common shorthand for this.

When installing, altering or replacing branch circuits in your home, in your electrical panel you’ll see fuses or circuit breakers of different sizes. General-purpose lighting and receptacle outlet circuits are rated 15 amps. In newer construction, you’ll also find dedicated 20-amp circuits for the kitchen, bathroom, laundry room, garage receptacle outlets and appliances like a dishwasher or refrigerator.

Electric clothes dryers and electric water heaters are typically rated 30 amps. Air-conditioning units, electric ranges and electric countertop cooking units or wall-mounted electric ovens may be rated at 30, 40 or 50 amps.

All the electrical components in your home must be coordinated so everything operates safely. The fuse or circuit breaker amp rating dictates the size of the wire and capacity limitations for the circuit. If you need more amps, you need bigger wire.

What Is an Ohm?

An ohm (represented by the Greek letter Omega, or Ω) measures the resistance inherent in any electrical wire. Copper wire, an excellent conductor of electricity, is found throughout many homes. Aluminum wire, another good conductor, can be found in commercial, industrial and utility installations. Both have inherent resistance to the flow of electricity.

Wires made from different metals have different resistance values, just like a small garden hose will limit the flow of water compared to a large fire hose.

When you troubleshoot electrical circuits, appliances, light switches, fuses, relays and other electrical components with a multimeter, some of the settings and readings will be expressed in Ohms. When you check the continuity for a new fuse, the multimeter will read approximately zero Ohms of resistance. That means the fuse has continuity and is good.

On the other hand, if you check a suspected defective fuse or broken light switch, you’ll probably get an Ohm reading other than zero. That may indicate a blown fuse or broken light switch. Consult the multimeter’s user manual so you can operate it safely and interpret the readings.

How Do Watts, Volts, Amps and Ohms Relate to Each Other?

Electrical math is straightforward. If you know two variables, you can find the result. If you know “x” and “y,” you can solve for “z.”

There are many laws in physics, science and nature, and Ohm’s Law is one of the most important in understanding basic electricity. And the Ohm’s Law Wheel helps make sense of it.

Here’s an example of a practical application. Say you’re installing an electric space heater in your garage. There’s a 5,000-watt (five-kilowatt or 5kW) space heater on sale at the hardware store that’s perfect for the space. What size circuit will you need for the space heater?

According to the nameplate, the space heater is rated at 5kW and must be supplied with 240 volts. So you need to solve for the amps (represented by the letter I for “intensity of current”). When you look at the Ohm’s Law Wheel, select this formula:

I = W/E (amps = watts ÷ volts);

I = 5,000 watts ÷ by 240 volts;

I = 20.8 amps;

Because the electric space heater on a continuous load could operate for three or more hours on a cold day, a safety factor of 125 percent is applied. So 20.8 amps x 1.25 = 26 amps.

All done! A standard 30-amp branch circuit will have adequate capacity to supply electricity continuously and safely for the space heater.

How To Work Safely on Your Home’s Electrical System

  • Electricity is an invisible phenomenon we take for granted. Working with electricity does not need to be dangerous or difficult if you know how it works, treat it with respect and take basic safety precautions. Learn how to safely use electrical tools and testers.
  • Make sure your electrical tester or multimeter is working properly before turning off the power.
  • Always turn off power to circuits before working on them. Put a label, sign or circuit breaker lockout device at the electrical panel so nobody inadvertently turns the power back on. You’ll find a variety of universal circuit breaker lockout devices at home centers and online for less than $10.
  • Always wear safety glasses and nonconductive leather, rubber, latex, nitrile or similar dry gloves. Wear clothing with natural fibers instead of synthetic materials.
  • Wear proper sturdy footwear and never stand or kneel on a wet or damp surface when working with electricity. Use a dry, nonconductive piece of wood or nonconductive mat, especially when working outdoors.
  • Use tools with rubber or plastic handles. Nonconductive tool handles provide another level of protection from electrical hazards.

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]]> Multimeter Symbol Guide https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/multimeter-symbol-guide/ Fri, 04 Feb 2022 20:46:08 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=446128 Multimeters are useful tools for measuring electric circuitry. To use one correctly, you need to know what the symbols surrounding the dial mean.

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]]> Back in the early days of electricity, lab workers could measure electric current in a circuit using an ammeter (galvanometer) and voltage using a voltmeter. From there, they could calculate resistance.

In 1920, British postal engineer Donald Macadie invented the AVOmeter, which measured all three quantities (A = amps, V = volts, O = ohms). Soon after, electricians working in the field got their hands on somewhat portable versions of this invention.

Today’s multimeters do the same jobs as the AVOmeter, but they’re more sophisticated and can do multiple other tests as well. Depending on the model, a multimeter can tell you whether a diode or capacitor is working, distinguish between alternating and direct current and measure wire temperature. Functions are denoted by symbols arranged around a dial.

Homeowners doing DIY electrical work don’t need the same functionality as electronics technicians, so multimeters sold in hardware stores are less complicated than those at electronics supply outlets. Even so, the symbols can be difficult to decipher. Here’s a rundown of the electrical terms and symbols you’ll find on a basic multimeter for home use and what they mean.

Multimeter Symbols You Need to Know

Voltage

Multimeters can measure direct current (DC) voltage and alternating current (AC) voltage, so they need to display more than one voltage symbol. On some older models, the designation for AC voltage is VAC. These days, it’s more common for manufacturers to place a wavy line over the V to signify AC voltage.

To signify DC voltage, the convention is to place a dotted line with a solid line above it over the V. To get voltage readings in millivolts (one-thousandth of a volt), set the dial to mV.

  • “V” with a wavy line over it = AC voltage.
  • “V” with one dotted and one solid over it = DC voltage.
  • “mV” with one wavy line or a pair of lines, one dotted and one solid, over it = AC or DC millivolts.

Current

Like voltage, current can be AC or DC. Because the unit for current is ampères, or amps, the symbol for it is A.

  • “A” with a wavy line over it = AC current.
  • “A” with two lines, one dotted and one solid, over it = DC current.
  • mA = Milliamps.
  • µA (µ is the Greek letter mu) = Microamps (millionths of an amp).

Resistance

Digital multimeter isolated on white background

A multimeter measures resistance by sending a small electric current through the circuit. The symbol for the unit of resistance, the ohm, is the Greek letter omega (Ω). Meters don’t distinguish between AC and DC resistance, so there are no lines above this symbol.

On meters with range selection options, you can select the kilohm (1,000 ohms) scale and the mega ohm (one million ohms) scale, which are kΩ and MΩ, respectively.

  • Ω = Ohms.
  • kΩ = Kilohms.
  • MΩ = Mega ohms.

Continuity

Use a multimeter to test for a break in an electrical circuit. The meter measures resistance, and there are only two outcomes. Either the circuit is broken (open), in which case the meter reads infinite resistance, or the circuit is intact (closed), in which case the meter reads 0 (or close to it).

Because there are only two possibilities, some meters beep when they detect continuity. This function is denoted on the dial settings by a series of left-facing brackets of increasing size, like a sideways version of the wireless reception symbol on a laptop.

Diode and Capacitance Tests

Electronics technicians are more likely to use the diode and capacitance tests than electricians or homeowners. But if you have a meter with these functions, it helps to know what the symbols mean.

The diode test function looks like an arrow pointing toward the center of a plus sign. When this function is selected, the meter will tell you whether a diode (a common electronics component that changes AC current into DC current) is working or not.

The capacitance function resembles a right-facing bracket to the right of a vertical line. Both are crossed by a horizontal line. Capacitors are electronic devices that store charge, and the meter can measure the charge.

The temperature function measures the temperature of the circuit wires. It’s denoted by a thermometer.

Jacks and Buttons

Two leads are supplied with every multimeter, one black and one red. Some meters have three jacks and some four. The jacks into which you plug the leads depend on what you’re testing.

  • COM is the common jack, and it’s the only black one. You always plug the black lead into this jack.
  • A is the jack where the red lead goes if you’re measuring high current up to 10 amps.
  • mAVΩ is the jack for every other measurement, including sensitive current measurements, voltage, resistance and temperature, if the meter has only three jacks.
  • mAµA is the jack for sensitive current measurements (less than one amp) if the meter has four jacks.
  • VΩ is the jack for all other measurements except current.

At the top of the meter display, above the dial, you usually find two buttons, one to the left and one to the right.

  • Shift. To save space, manufacturers may assign two functions to some dial positions. You access the function marked in yellow by pressing the shift button, which is usually also yellow and may or may not be marked.
  • Hold. Pressing this button freezes the current reading for later reference.

Manual vs. Auto Range

An older analog multimeter with a needle needs to have more than one range setting. If the meter had only a large range, it couldn’t be used for sensitive measurements because the needle would hardly deflect. On the other hand, if the meter had only a small range, any measurement exceeding that range, no matter what it was, would deflect the needle to its maximum.

Digital multimeters with LED displays were introduced in the 1970s, and today most multimeters are digital. Some still have range settings that you select with a dial. But increasingly, the meter selects the range automatically.

Because these multimeters don’t have range settings (which can occupy up to 18 dial positions), auto-range multimeters can have more functionality than those with manual range settings.

Note: Retain the owner’s manual of your multimeter for reference. Keep the manual and the multimeter clean and dry in a quart- or gallon-size plastic zip-top freezer storage bag.

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]]> 18 Common Electrical Terms You Should Know https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/common-electrical-terms/ https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/common-electrical-terms/#respond Thu, 02 Dec 2021 21:09:09 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=listicle&p=438001 Electricians know these electrical terms and you should too, especially if you plan to save money by doing basic electrical work yourself.

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]]>

A black electrical plug rests on a smooth, dark surface, ready for connection to a power source.

AC Power

One of the most important electrical terms to know is AC. Ever since the Tesla-Westinghouse power plant at Niagara Falls came online in 1885, alternating current (AC) power has been the standard in North America, and eventually the rest of the world. It is produced by spinning turbines, so its current alternates in a “wave” as it flows back and forth.

“Think of it like water sloshing in a pipe,” says Vasilevski.

Power stations generate AC because it is easy to step up to high voltages for efficient transmission across power lines and then step it back down using transformers for use in homes or businesses. That means centralized generating stations using wind, solar, water, nuclear fuel or fossil fuels can power communities hundreds of miles away. AC current also has a characteristic frequency. In North America, it’s 60 cycles per second.

DC voltage, on the other hand, is used for smaller-scale applications, like powering electric cars, smartphones, laptops, batteries and other devices that require consistent, steady energy. Solar panels also generate DC power.
“Batteries naturally produce DC because the chemical reactions inside them push the current in one direction,” says Vasilevski. “It flows in a single direction without changing, like water flowing steadily in one direction through a hose.”

Understanding AC electrical terminology can help homeowners understand how power comes into the house, what happens when it gets there and how to work with it.

A hand pulls a plug from a power strip, which features multiple outlets, resting on a wooden surface with a plain background.

Voltage

John Williamson, the electrical operations supervisor for the Minnesota Department of Labor and Industry, compares voltage in an electrical circuit to the pressure exerted on water flowing through a pipe. Just as higher pressure increases the volume and flow rate of water through the pipes, increasing the voltage produces more electrical power.

The voltage from an AC power generator isn’t constant, as it is from a DC source like a battery. It peaks and dips during each cycle. To compare it to the constant voltage from a DC power source, electricians calculate an average nominal voltage. This is the AC voltage (VAC) you see displayed on labels for appliances and electrical devices.

In North America, any device that plugs into a standard wall outlet is rated for 120 VAC. However, the actual operating voltage ranges from 110 to 125 VAC because of the voltage fluctuations.

A utility pole stands tall, supporting transformers and wires, set against a clear blue sky with fluffy white clouds and green foliage below.

Transformer

The transformer is most responsible for making the electrical grid what it is today. This transformer is a device that can increase and decrease electrical voltage.

If you’ve ever driven by an electrical generating plant, you’ve seen the multiple large cylinders connected to the outgoing power lines. If you look at the power lines outside your house, you’ll see a similar, much smaller cylinder. These are transformers. The large ones at the power plant increase voltage to several thousand volts, while the smaller ones on the power lines decrease voltage for use inside buildings.

Many electronic devices also have a transformer to decrease residential voltage to a level safe enough for their sensitive circuitry. The transformer is in the square box at the end of the wire where the plug prongs attach.

A gray electrical panel is mounted on wooden framing, with wires connected, in an unfinished interior space, showcasing exposed walls and construction materials.

Service Panel

The service panel is the main control center for the electrical system, where the wires from the transformer connect and branch out to supply the individual circuits in the home. It’s a rectangular metal box with a door revealing the circuit breakers for all the individual circuits.

Each of the hot wires supplying electricity to the home from the utility line transformer connects to a copper or alloy bar in the back of the panel. These are called hot bus bars, and the circuit breakers for all the circuits in the house connect to them.

Electricity can flow only if it has a complete circuit, so the panel includes a neutral terminal to provide an electrical return path back to the transformer. It also includes a wire that leads to the earth so all electrical devices in the house can be grounded.

The panel is usually in the basement, in a closet or outside, and you’ll need access to it whenever you’re trying to solve electrical problems. It needs to be easy to reach so keep the space in front of it clear.

A gray electrical panel displays multiple circuit breakers, each labeled with room names and numbers, organized for managing electrical distribution in a home.

Circuit Breaker

That array of black switches inside your home’s service panel represents all the electrical circuits in the home. Each switch is part of a device known as a circuit breaker. If your house was built before 1950, it may still have a fuse box. Fuse boxes employ screw-in fuses instead of switchable breakers.

Circuit breakers are overload protection devices. Each connects to one of the panel’s hot buses and controls a circuit with one or more light fixtures or wall plugs. If the circuit experiences a sudden current surge, the breaker will trip to prevent a home fire.

“If too many appliances are in use simultaneously on a single circuit, they might be drawing more power than the circuit is built to handle,” says Daniel Mock, vice president of operations at Mister Sparky. “This causes the circuit to overheat and trip the break.”

Each breaker has a “characteristic ampacity”, the maximum current it will allow without tripping. Ratings of 15 and 20 amps are most common for 120-volt breakers. Large appliances that operate at 240 volts have double-pole breakers most commonly rated from 20 to 60 amps.

A circuit breaker panel with multiple switches is displayed; some are labeled with amperage values, indicating their function in an electrical system.

Branch Circuit

If you think of the service panel as the trunk of a tree, it’s easy to visualize branch circuits as the branches. Each branch circuit is controlled by a circuit breaker. Together all the branch circuits supply the electrical needs of the building.

The electrical code includes three types of branch circuits. One is the all-purpose circuit that supplies power to receptacles and lighting outlets. Another is the appliance circuit that powers appliances, but not lights. The third is the individual circuit, also known as a dedicated circuit, that powers a single appliance.

Appliance circuits are generally required in the kitchen and sometimes in other rooms as well. Dedicated circuits are required for some large appliances, including the central air conditioner, electric range and water heater, among others.

A person connects electrical wires using a yellow wire connector, positioned near a circuit component and plumbing fixtures on a textured wall.

Neutral Conductor

If you connect a device such as a light to a battery, the hot conductor is the wire that leads from the battery’s positive terminal to the light. The neutral conductor is the one that leads back to the battery’s negative terminal. It has to be there to complete the DC circuit or the light won’t work.

Current rapidly changes direction cyclically in AC circuits, and both conductors from the power line are hot. Between these two hot conductors, you would measure 240 volts. However, between each one of the hot conductors and the neutral conductor, you would measure 120 volts.

Most branch circuits in a house run on 120 volts. The National Electrical Code (NEC) specifies the neutral conductor in electrical cables must be white. The NEC doesn’t specify a color for hot conductors, but they are usually black or red.

A copper pipe stands upright in the ground near a rusty metal wall, with a green cable lying alongside rocks and dirt.

Grounding Conductor

Besides the neutral terminal, the electrical panel also contains a grounding terminal. It’s typically connected to a metal rod pounded into the ground outside of the home, but it could also connect to a copper water pipe that runs under ground. All branch circuits have a bare or green grounding conductor that connects to the grounding bus.

The electrical code recognizes both system grounding and equipment grounding as safety concerns. Grounding the electrical system to earth helps stabilize supply voltages during normal operating conditions. Moreover, it hopefully directs the current surge from a lightning strike to earth so it doesn’t damage anything.

Electrical equipment grounding provides a direct low-resistance path for fault current back to the electrical panel to blow a fuse or trip a circuit breaker. The grounding conductor runs continuously through the circuit, connecting to every device and every metal electrical box.

A finger presses a glowing green power button on a black device, activating it against a blurred background.

Ground-Fault

Even with grounded circuitry, it’s possible for electricity to find a path to ground through someone’s body or a loose wire connection. This can happen when someone touches a damaged power cord or faulty appliance switch, or when an exposed hot wire comes in direct contact with the ground wire or a grounded piece of metal. This is known as a ground-fault. It creates a current surge that can overheat wires, damage electrical equipment and cause shocks.

“The fact that ground faults can happen anytime electricity finds an unintended path to the ground makes them unpredictable and even more dangerous,” says WG Hickman, owner at Tri-County Air Service.

One of the most well-known instances occurs when someone standing on a wet floor touches an appliance with an exposed electrical connection. Electricity can then use the person’s body to ground itself, and the person receives a nasty — perhaps fatal — shock. Standard 15- and 20-ampere circuit breakers are designed to trip when such current surges occur, but they don’t always stop people from receiving electrical shocks.

“Human bodies conduct electricity well because we are made up of water and salts,” says Vasilevski. “Even small amounts of current causes muscle contractions, burns, or shock. Higher levels cause the heart to stop or result in severe injuries. It only takes 30 milliamps of current to be life-threatening, which is why ground faults are no joke.”

A beige electrical outlet features two sockets, a reset button, and a test button, mounted on a wall or surface with metallic brackets nearby.

GFCI

A ground-fault current-interrupting (GFCI) receptacle or circuit breaker protects people from injury and equipment from damage caused by a ground-fault. A GFCI is much more sensitive to the current surge caused by a ground-fault than a conventional circuit breaker and will trip when it detects a current surge of 5 mA (milliamps) or more. Electrical currents higher than 5 mA can cause the human heart to fail.

“Even in normal circumstances, hidden issues like loose wire or damaged insulation can suddenly cause a ground fault, which is why installing GFCI outlets is so important,” says Hickman.

GFCI receptacles have two buttons on the face plate. One is for testing the internal mechanism, and the other for resetting the mechanism after it trips. The NEC requires GFCI receptacles in kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms and outdoors — anywhere water (a good electrical conductor) is present. GFCI receptacles are gradually being replaced by GFCI breakers, which protect entire circuits from a central location in the service panel.

A fallen tree lies across a street, entangled with power lines, creating an obstruction in a residential area with visible houses and greenery nearby.

Short Circuit

Like a ground-fault, a short circuit causes a current surge, but it happens for a different reason. A ground-fault occurs when electricity finds an unintentional pathway to earth. A short circuit happens when electricity finds a low-resistance pathway through the circuit itself.

Shorts typically occur when a neutral wire makes contact with a hot wire because of a loose connection, worn insulation or an accident, such as a tree branch falling on a power line.

“If a hot wire touches a neutral wire in your home’s wiring system or in an outlet or fixture, current will flow between them at rapid speed, which also causes overheating,” says Mock.

The current surge caused by a short circuit usually trips the breaker. If that happens too slowly, the surge can instantaneously heat the wires to several thousand degrees F. If the wires are close but not touching, electrical arcing can also occur. Arcing turns the air into ultra-hot plasma that can quickly ignite a fire.

A wall outlet with three sockets and two buttons labeled "RESET" and "TEST" is mounted on a plain background.

AFCI

Electrical arcing and a ground-fault are different phenomena. As such, the devices to protect against them are also different, although they have similarities.

An arc-fault current interrupting (AFCI) receptacle has the same two buttons as a GFCI, but a more complex sensor. It doesn’t just detect conditions that can cause arcing before the arcing actually happens. It can also distinguish dangerous arcing from the normal arcing that occurs when you flip a switch, turn on a light or start an appliance.

The purpose of arc fault protection is to prevent fires, and the NEC has steadily increased the number of rooms in which AFCIs are required to cover practically the entire house. It’s becoming standard practice to install dual-function AFCI/GFCI breakers in the main service panel rather than individual combo receptacles throughout the house. It’s cheaper that way, and breakers provide more comprehensive protection.

A hand is plugging a white electrical cord into a wall outlet, which is set against a plain white background.

Polarized Plug

Some appliance plugs have only two prongs. If they’re different sizes, the plug is polarized. It will only plug into a receptacle with slots the same sizes as the prongs. Plus, you can only insert it in one direction. This is a safety strategy to prevent a ground-fault condition. The wide prong must be connected to the neutral conductor.

Appliances and portable lamps with polarized plugs are internally wired so the hot leg of the circuit terminates at the switch. Only after you engage the switch will power flow to the internal machinery or light bulb.

A good example is a table lamp. The wide prong connects to the neutral conductor of the circuit. This in turn connects to the metal screw threads of the lamp socket. The hot wire, via the switch, connects to the brass knob on the bottom of the socket where no one can touch it. If the wiring were reversed, you could get a shock when changing a light bulb or groping for the lamp switch in the dark.

A blue electrical box is mounted on wooden framing, with multiple wires connected, amid partially completed interior construction. Bright light filters through windows.

Outlet

Certain electrical terms mean different things to laymen and tradesmen. People usually refer to a wall plug as an outlet, but that isn’t what electricians mean by the term. An outlet is any location in a circuit that supplies electricity. It can power a light fixture, a smoke alarm or a hardwired appliance, as well as a wall plug, which is more properly known as a receptacle.

Electrical outlet box locations are typically established during the rough-in phase of electrical wiring, before drywall covers the framing. The electrician runs cable to the outlet box locations and secures it inside the electrical box as required. The electrician then circles back to make-up all the wires and splices inside the outlet boxes and add labels.

After the walls have been covered, the electrician simply connects the prearranged wires to whatever device, light fixture or appliance that is supposed to be installed at that location.

A blue electrical outlet is mounted on a wooden surface, with two white sockets visible and secured by metal screws in a construction environment.

Electrical Box

Unless you know what an electrical box is, you might not even know it’s there. But there’s one at every point in the house where a device or light fixture connects to the building’s electrical circuitry. This is an NEC requirement. It isolates the wire connections from the framing, insulation and anything else that could catch fire if the wires overheat.

The simplest electrical boxes are round or rectangular, made of plastic and typically nailed to the framing. Metal boxes are required for some devices, and these have a ground screw so they can be connected to ground.

When installing a new device onto an existing electrical system, it’s common to use a remodeling box, a shallow plastic box (plastic doesn’t need to be grounded). It has anchors that allow you to attach it to drywall instead of to the framing.

A hand holds a multimeter, measuring voltage on a circuit board with multiple wires and components, situated within a wooden enclosure.

Multimeter

Some electrical terms refer to the actual electricity, while other electrical terms refer to tools. A multimeter is one of the most powerful diagnostic tools in an electrician’s tool belt. This inexpensive measuring device consists of a meter with settings for measuring voltage, current and resistance and a pair of testing probes. Its many uses include testing devices and wires for voltage to see if they are hot, and checking for breaks in a circuit.

To conduct a voltage test on a device such as a switch, the power must be on and the switch connected to the circuit. The meter checks voltage between the hot and neutral or grounding connections. The test for a circuit breaker or fuse is called a continuity test. It’s conducted with the power off and the part of the circuit being tested isolated from the rest of the circuit. The meter sends a small current through the circuit and measures the resistance.

A gloved hand holds wire strippers, removing insulation from a blue wire. Behind, several colorful wires are visible in an electrical box on a textured background.

Wire Strippers

 Wire strippers are another important electrician’s tool, and any DIY homeowner doing electrical work should have some. A set of spring-loaded pliers with notches of various diameters, wire strippers are used for removing the insulation from individual wires prior to splicing them together or connecting them to a device.

The notches on the jaws of a pair of wire strippers are graduated to fit almost exactly around wires of various gauges. Clamp the appropriate notch around the wire that needs stripping. Next, rotate the jaws to cut through the insulation. Then use the serrated tip to pull off the insulation. This is much faster than stripping the insulation with a knife, and it’s safer and more accurate.

A person in a safety vest writes on a clipboard while holding a yellow multimeter, assessing conditions in a possibly industrial or construction setting.

NEC

One item on our list of electrical terms isn’t a tool or a type of power. When electricians talk about following “code,” they’re talking about the National Electrical Code (NEC). The NEC was established by the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) in 1897, and its rules and standards are updated every three years.

The NEC isn’t federal law, but it has been adopted by all 50 U.S. states, as well as by authorities in Mexico and other countries around the world. Revisions to the code apply primarily to new construction and remodeling. Except for a few provisions it’s generally not retroactive. That means wiring installed under a previous edition of the code can generally remain as long as it’s in good working condition and safe to use.

However, since safety is the main purpose of the NEC rules and standards, any homeowner considering changes to their electrical system should consult with an electrician. This way they can ensure the changes conform to today’s code.

An infographic lists 18 common electrical terms with definitions, including "AC power," "transformer," "service panel," and "circuit breaker," set against a technical backdrop.

About the Experts

  • Daniel Mock is vice president of operations at Mister Sparky, and he has more than 15 years of experience in home services and the electrical sector.
  • Daniel Vasilevski is director and owner of Bright Force Electrical and has worked as an electrician for more than a decade.
  • WG Hickman is owner at Tri-County Air Service in Mississippi, which has been providing electrical and HVAC services for almost 20 years.
  • Todd Tripp is a general contractor and founder of Trip Mills Builders in upstate South Carolina, and a home improvement expert with JustAnswer.

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]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/common-electrical-terms/feed/ 0 What to Do Within the First Year After Moving Into Your New Home https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/what-to-do-in-first-year-after-moving-into-home/ Wed, 30 Jun 2021 04:00:46 +0000 When you move into your new home, there are a number of cleaning tasks, basic projects and upgrades to consider. Here's a comprehensive guide to point you in the right direction.

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]]> Once you’ve signed and closed on your new home, the work continues! There are so many projects you can do in the first few months as well as within the first year. Whether you’re looking at the interior of your home and considering upgrading the walls with a fresh coat of paint or if you’re looking at the exterior and considering new landscaping ideas, being a new homeowner is a labor of love.

Here’s what you can do to maintain your home all year long.

Painting Your Home 

One of the most common home renovation projects you may consider within the first year of moving into your new space is painting your room or multiple rooms. We’ve included some tips and techniques on how to paint different parts of your house — including the living room, as well as girls’ and boys’ bedrooms — and also offer some ideas on which colors might set just the tone you’re looking for.

Window Treatments 

When you move into your new home, you’ll want just the right coverage on your windows to illuminate or darken your rooms while at the same, show off your own sense of style. Whether you’re looking for curtains for your living room or smart blinds for your bedroom, here are some inspirational ideas on how you can liven up your windows in an artful way.

Insulation  

No matter what season it is, it’s important for you to make sure that you have proper insulation in your house. Learn about the different insulations types for your attic and how to prevent frozen pipes during the cold season.

Landscaping  

What your home looks like on the outside is just as important as what it looks like on the inside. Whether you have a small or large yard, we have a variety of landscaping ideas that’ll shape the look and feel of your home. If you’re a gardener, you should consider soil testing the areas of your yard where you plan on growing plants and/or vegetables.

Upgrades and Replacements  

What are some DIY jobs you can tackle when an appliance or part of your home system breaks down? Learn some of the basics — from how to fix a doorbell to replacing a lightbulb when it goes out.

Maintenance 

Home maintenance doesn’t have to be a burden if you stay on top of problems when they arise. Whether you’re checking your sump pump, installing new smoke alarms, or caulking windows, there’s always something to do to ensure your home is healthy and up to code. Consider creating a home maintenance checklist for every season.

Annual

Year-round home maintenance is crucial if you don’t want to end up paying for a big repair. As a first-time buyer, we have a beginner’s guide to home maintenance so you’ll know the ins and outs on checking items like smoke alarms, water pressure and cleaning out your air conditioning units.

Electrical Safety Checks Video

Seasonal

Every season brings different home maintenance responsibilities. For winter maintenance, you obviously need to check if your heating systems are ready to go and that you don’t have any air leaking through your windows. For spring maintenance, make sure your home is free of pests — especially cockroaches — and take time to do exterior woodwork, roof inspections and to check your sprinkler systems. For summer maintenance, keep your cooling systems in check and schedule any major outdoor projects then. And last but not least, fall maintenance can involve anything from aerating the soil, cleaning your gutters to cleaning your chimney.

Monthly

Here are some helpful home maintenance tips that you should do every month to keep your systems in good standing.

Basic Projects for New Homeowners

If you’re new to the DIY world, we’ve got you covered! Learn how to start a garden, repair a broken pipe, fix an appliance or even use a leaf blower. Whether you’re doing something as common as painting a room or learning the more involved steps of fertilizing your lawn, tackling these types of projects will build your confidence and equip you to be a more informed and seasoned homeowner.

  • How to Prune Your Garden: Spring is an ideal time for getting rid of the unwanted parts of your plants, but you can also prune during the early summer and late fall months. Think of yourself as a sculptor as you shape your plants, make room for new growth and keep your garden healthy.
  • How to Repair Your Office Chair: Does your office chair need fixing? If your chair doesn’t bounce or has a hard time rolling, all you need is some basic tools and parts to rebuild it.

Basic Tools to Use

With all the projects on your list, you’re going to need some basic tools to get the job done right. If have plans to build a deck or some other substantial project, you’ll need an impact drill. Boring holes in wood or metal? Then you’ll want to purchase a drill press. For chores that help keep the exterior of your home clean and tidy, look into a pressure washer to clean off old paint and a leaf blower to maintain your landscaping.

New Homeowner Tips and Information

Here are some additional tips and information for things you need to do within a year of moving into your new home that could help best prepare you to make the right decisions as a new homeowner — from checking your electrical and HVAC systems, compiling a list of contractors for needed repairs and creating an inventory of all your valuable assets you’ll be moving in with.

New Homeowner Products

There’s no shortage of things you could buy for your new house. It’s a list that could get long and very expensive pretty quickly. The key here is to focus in on what you need. Use this list of the most essential products for new homeowners as guidance and know what to avoid.

If you enjoyed this content, sign up for our new homeowner newsletter where we’ll guide you through the exciting journey of what to do before you purchase your dream house as well as give you expert tips and projects to help you make that new house a true home.

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]]> How to Fish Wire Through A Wall https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/how-to-fish-wire-through-wall/ Thu, 08 Apr 2021 21:50:51 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=403862 “Fishing” wire is easier with these tips and tools.

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]]> One of the basic skills of DIY electrical work is knowing how to make connections inside switch, light and outlet boxes. But being able to “fish” wire, as the pros call it, through your walls opens up even more possibilities. This technique lets you add new switches, lights, outlets or communication cable like Cat 6 exactly where you need them.

You don’t need to settle for extension cords draped across your walls. With wire-fishing tools and tips, you can place wires exactly where you need them, whether it’s for new lighting, outlets or other electrical projects.

Ahead, you’ll find expert tips from licensed electrician Matt Cross on how to master wire fishing, along with the tools and techniques that make these DIY electrical tasks safer and easier.

Route Cable Behind Baseboard

If you’re like me and would rather install miles of trim than patch drywall, this is the way to go.

Remove the baseboard and cut a long, narrow hole in its place. Then drill holes in the studs for your wire to pass through. This works best with wide base trim but can be done with narrow base trim as well. Be sure to keep the holes in the studs at least 1-1/4-in. away from the stud edges to avoid the need for protective metal plates.

Make a Bevel Cut

If you have to cut an access hole, make the cut at an angle. Then, when it’s time to patch it, spread the joint compound around the hole and press the cutout back in. The mud will hold the plug in place. There’s no need for screws or backing, and the plug won’t fall through the hole.

Make a Chase With Trim

Run conduit or BX cable (armored cable) along the top corner of a wall and cover it with crown molding. You can cut small holes in the wall or ceiling where the wiring needs to exit the room.

Don’t Fish Power Cords

Cords that power appliances, TVs and power strips cannot be placed inside a wall. The National Electrical Code says these cords cannot replace permanent wiring. To avoid seeing these power cords, you can fish cable to add a new outlet nearby. “One of the biggest mistakes I see homeowners make is running power cords through the wall. These are not UL listed to run in walls, and aren’t safe,” Cross says. “The best way to do it is to fish a wire up from an existing outlet or the basement and add a new outlet.”

Give Communication Cable Enough Space

Communication cable like coax or Cat 6 should be kept away from cables that carry high voltage to outlets and lights. Pros recommend keeping them 12 to 16 inches away. If you must cross these cables, do so at a 90 degree angle.

Find the Easiest Route

The easiest route is not always the most direct. Take advantage of unfinished spaces like basements and attics to run wire from one end of the house to the other. You might use an extra 50 feet of wire, but it will save you lots of time.

Use a Lot of Cable

Pushing far more cable than you need into the walls or ceilings is helpful for a few reasons. First, it makes the job of hooking the cable you’re fishing much easier. It also eliminates lots of tugging, which can damage fragile Cat 6 cables.

Hide Wires With Raceway

Running wire on the wall surface with raceway is a great way to get power right where you want it without fishing wires through walls. You can hide the raceway behind furniture and paint it to match the wall. Build the raceway from an existing electrical box with snap-together components and hide the wire inside the channel.

Run Conduit in Closets or Cabinets

Conduit or armored cable is another great option for surface wiring, and it’s about half the cost of raceway. You wouldn’t want to run it over your walls like you would raceway, but it won’t be visible in a dark closet or along the backs of cabinets.

Splice Like a Pro

Sometimes you have to pull hard to get a cable through a wall, so make sure the cable is securely tied to your pulling tool, whether it’s a fish tape or a coat hanger.

This is my favorite method: Put the wire through the eyelet or around the hook, then wrap it around your fishing tool. Tape them together with electrical tape, making sure to taper the wrapped section so it will slide through holes.

Don’t Run Cable in Ductwork

Running cable inside ductwork, as convenient as it may be, is not allowed by code. You can run cable in plenum spaces like stud and joist bays for return air, but you’ll need a plenum-rated cable. These cables have special jackets that are nontoxic and rated for fire.

You can find plenum-rated Cat 6 and security cable at electrical supply stores. It will cost about twice as much as standard versions.

Wire Along the Plumbing Stack

Adding power in an upper level can mean running wires from the basement to the attic. In a two-story home, you’d have three ceilings to go through. But in older homes, sometimes this is as easy as lowering a plumb bob along the plumbing vent stack and pulling up the cable. Newer homes might not have enough space around the stack, but it’s worth checking first.

Drill Two Holes to Turn a Corner

Running wire around corners isn’t as hard as it seems; the key is to cut holes on each side of the corner. With a spade bit in an angle drill, or an angle attachment, drill a hole in each of the corner studs. This will give you a path to pull wire through.

Find Obstructions

Before cutting any holes in walls, map out the route you want your wire to take. Scan the wall with a stud finder to locate any blocking that might obstruct that route. If there’s blocking in one stud bay, the next one over might make a better path. You don’t want to find out the hard way.

Double-Duty Access Holes

Instead of cutting new holes in your walls or ceilings, you can use holes that are already there. Remove light fixtures, switches or outlets to use existing holes, or plan ahead to use the access hole for a new fixture.

Hide TV Wires With a Wiring Kit

The easiest way to hide TV wires is with an in-wall TV wiring kit ($60). Just cut holes for the two boxes, drop the wire down the wall and then plug in the extension cord. The kit is prewired with a male-ended plug and comes with an extension cord. This is especially helpful if a stud blocks a direct fishing route and you want to avoid a big wall-repair project. “

Tuck Low-Voltage Wires

Low-voltage cable doesn’t have the same installation requirements as household power cables. Speaker wire, cables that provide power to doorbells and thermostats, and communication lines like Cat 6 don’t need to be run inside your walls. You can just tuck them under your baseboard, but not under carpet or rugs.

Wire-fishing gear

Glow Rods

Glow rods are a staple for wire fishing. Just like steel tape, they can be pushed up walls and along ceilings. They can usually be purchased in several lengths and be screwed together for longer spans. Most come with a swivel eyelet tip and a hook tip. The luminescent rods glow in the dark, illuminating dark joist and stud bays. You can find them for $40 at home centers.

Flex Bit

If you need to run wire across a few joists or studs, reach for a flex bit. They come in long lengths, and extensions are available so you can drill holes through several joists. They have an eyelet at the tip, so once you’ve made your holes you can pull the wire back through with the same bit. “These are great when you have to go across stud bays,” Cross says, “Just work carefully as they can get away from you and drill through the sheetrock.” 

One thing to note: Don’t drill through insulation with these bits. Expect to pay about $50 for a 54-inch flex bit at a home center.

Homemade Hooks

Some of my favorite fishing tools are ones you can make yourself. Small hooks made from cable or coat hangers let you grab cable just out of reach. Best of all, they’re economical.

90-Degree Drill Attachment

This is the perfect tool for drilling holes between stud bays. About $18 at most home centers, it’s a lot cheaper than a dedicated angle drill and serves the same purpose. It can be a little tricky to use with larger bits, so hold on tight.

Wire-Pulling Magnets

With a few options at different prices, magnets are cool tools for pulling wire along an insulated stud bay. This Magnepull ($125) consists of a steel leader and a roller magnet. You can even use it to retrieve lost bits and other tools from inside walls. Wire-pulling magnets, which range from $40 to $125, can be found at electrical supply stores.

Low Voltage Mud Ring

Use mud rings to prevent marring drywall as I pull cable. They also have markers in the corner to outline the perfect hole size and shape for single-gang boxes. When you’re done fishing, leave it in the wall and cover it with a blank faceplate to avoid patching (especially useful for hard-to-patch textured walls). These mud rings are available for less than $2 each at home centers.

Steel Fish Tape

This long roll of stiff steel is great for pushing wire through insulated walls, up wall cavities and down long lengths of joists. A roll starts at $15 at home centers. “You can straighten the end of the wire to help it get through the insulation easier, then bend it back into a hook to pull wires through,” Cross says.

About the Expert

  • Matt Cross is a licensed electrician in the State of Massachusetts. He has over ten years of industry experience in residential and commercial work.

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]]> The Most Essential Products for New Homeowners https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/new-homeowners-essential-products/ Fri, 02 Apr 2021 19:11:35 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=401823 Here's the list of the most essential items you'll need — from cleaning supplies to tools, to taking care of and personalizing your new home.

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Buying a house is rarely as simple as getting the keys and settling in. Even if you didn’t buy a fixer-upper, you’ll most likely want to give your new place some level of customization, from painting the walls to refinishing the floors (and you’ll probably want to change the locks, too.) Another thing to be ready for is ongoing maintenance like yard work, repairing a broken toilet or even keeping your new place clean.

Here’s a list of some of the most essential products, tools and other supplies you’ll need as you settle into your new house.

Home Renovations

While it’s generally a good idea to wait a year and get to know your house before knocking down walls and undertaking major renovations, projects like painting or installing new lights are an easy way to personalize and make your new home even more comfortable.

Scotch Blue Painters Tape Applicator
Purdy XL Angled Paint Brush
Bucket Edge Complete Set
Philips Hue Smart Light Kit

Homeowner Tools

You will need some tools to take care of your new home. Start with these three essential tools: A tape measure, a multi-utility knife, and an easy-to-store ladder. You’ll find that these are the things you’ll use repeatedly. In addition to those tools, we also recommend:

Craftsman Cordless Drill and Impact Driver
Amazon Basics Indoor/Outdoor Extension Cord
Irwin Claw Hammer
Filtrete Smart Furnace Filter

Kitchen and Bathroom Supplies

Most families end up spending as much time in the kitchen as any room in the house, so it’s important to get your kitchen organized to make the most of it. And you’ll obviously want your bathroom to be as comfortable as possible, too. Here are a few suggestions for what you’ll need.

Rev-A-Shelf Pull-Out Trash Can Container
DII Washable Fridge & Shelf Liner
VaeFae Bamboo Silverware Organizer
Tushy Classic Bidet

Appliances

In most cases, your new house will already have all the home appliances you need. However, it’s not unusual for the previous owner to have taken the washer and dryer with them, in which case, you’ll need to get your own.

Bespoke AI Front Load Washer and Dryer
Bespoke Counter Depth 4-Door Refrigerator
Whirlpool 24-in Built-In Dishwasher

Lawn Care

A lush lawn will have you spending a lot more time outdoors. It might even make you the envy of the neighborhood. But all that green grass is going to require some care and maintenance. Here are the products you need to make it happen:

EGO Power+ 56V Battery Lawn Mower Kit
Flexi Hose Expandable Garden Hose
Fiskars 46-Inch Digging Shovel
EGO Power+ 56V Cordless Leaf Blower

Outdoor Living

There’s nothing better than kicking up your heels and relaxing in the backyard after a long day—or even a short one. Therefore, you’ll want to get your patio or outdoor living space set up just right. From our favorite fire pit to an inflatable hot tub, here are some of our favorite things for your outdoor oasis.

Solo Stove Bonfire 2.0
Bestway SaluSpa Outdoor Inflatable Hot Tub
Seizeen Outdoor Storage Box
Wanme Retractable Privacy Screen

Cleaning Supplies

Sorry, you’re going to have to clean your house. However, if you follow a few simple cleaning tips and use the right equipment, it’ll be easier than you think. Here are a few things to get you started.

Shark Rocket DuoClean Vacuum
Casabella Original Mop
Rocco & Roxie Stain & Odor Eliminator
O-Cedar Pet Pro Broom

Storage Solutions

You don’t want to live out of boxes forever. Having the right storage solutions for your home makes it easy to unpack without leaving a trail of clutter.

Clear Weathertight Tote
17 Stories Corner Bookcase
Akro-Mils Plastic Parts Drawer Storage
StorageWorks Storage Bins for Shelves

Design and Decor

After moving in and unpacking, the next step is dialing in your interior design. Even if you choose to wait to fully launch into the interior design for your home, you will want some basic furniture and accessories to start enjoying your new home right away. Remember as you get started that quality furniture can last a lifetime if you take good care of it.

Letterfolk Tile Mat
Yoolax Motorized Blind Shade
Rae Round Marble Bistro Table
Oliver 2-Piece Chaise Sectional

Garage Organization

Your garage is for more than just cars. It’s often a workshop and the place where your adventures begin. But you’ll want to organize your garage so that it’s not a cluttered mess keeping you from doing the things you want.

Home Security

Home security is more than just keeping your home safe from unwanted intruders with home security systems—though that’s important, too—it’s also about preventing and being prepared for emergencies with things like flashlights and fire extinguishers.

Ring 8-Piece Alarm Security Kit
GearLight LED Flashlight
First Alert Onelink Safe & Sound
First Alert Home Fire Extinguisher

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]]> How To Install a Hard Wired Smoke Detector https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/install-new-hard-wired-or-battery-powered-smoke-alarms/ Wed, 31 Mar 2021 04:00:08 +0000 https://fhm.staging.rda.net/projects/install-new-hard-wired-or-battery-powered-smoke-alarms/ Replace smoke detectors before they fail. It only takes about 10 minutes to replace a hard-wired type safely

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Installing a hard wired smoke detector is an essential safety measure for any home. It provides peace of mind and could be a lifesaver in the event of a fire.

Installation involves connecting the new detector to others throughout your home. This ensures all alarms sound simultaneously when one detects smoke or gas. “Smoke detectors are required to be interconnected and most brands communicate better with alike brands,” says licensed electrician Sergey Nikolin from Product Air Heating and Cooling. I admit it’s not the most fun activity to do over the weekend. But I knocked it out a lot faster than I expected.

Side note: If you have children, other people or pets in the home who dislike the sound of annoyingly loud smoke alarms, maybe do this when they’re not around. I made sure to put my dog in the backyard because I know loud noises scare him.

New detectors are relatively inexpensive; the ones I picked up were less than $30. If you are planning to replace more than one smoke detector, buy multiples of the same brand and model and replace them all at the same time to prevent any complications.

Remove and disconnect the old smoke detector

Safety first: Before starting any electrical work, turn off the power at the breaker panel. Use an electrical tester to verify the power is off.

Twist your old smoke detector to loosen it from its mounting plate. Disconnect the old wiring harness from the wires in the remodeling box and unscrew the plate.

Attach the mounting plate

Fasten the new smoke detector mounting plate to the remodeling box with a screwdriver.

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Connect the wires

Strip 3/4-inch of insulation from the ends of the wires. Use wire nuts to connect the stripped NM cable wires to the corresponding color harness wires. Wrap the wire connectors with electrical tape for extra protection.

Tuck the excess wire length and wire connectors into the remodeling box, leaving the plug-end of the wire harness out.

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Activate the backup battery

Pull out the cover tab to activate the battery in the detector. My alarm came with a sealed battery that didn’t need to be replaced for 10 years, but some require batteries you’ll need to install.

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Attach the smoke detector to the mounting plate

Line up the notches on the back of the device with those on the mounting plate, then twist until the detector locks into place. Ensure it’s secure on all sides.

Once you’ve connected all the wiring and the detector is secure on its mounting plate, turn on the power at the breaker panel. Confirm the detector’s power light is on.

Test the smoke alarm

Press the test button on each detector to ensure they’re working correctly. You should hear all the alarms sound during the test.

If the alarms don’t sound, turn off the power at the breaker panel and double-check your wire connections. If everything seems correct but a unit’s power light won’t come on, you may need to replace the unit.

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FAQs

When should I replace my hard-wired smoke detector?

If it’s no longer working properly, replace it ASAP. Otherwise, “replace your smoke detectors every 10 years,” Nikolin says. “They usually have an expiration date on the back.”

Do I need an electrician to replace hard-wired smoke detectors?

Not necessarily. It can be DIY if you understand the process and take certain precautions to ensure safety. If you have any doubts or concerns, call a pro.

Should hard-wired smoke detectors be mounted on the wall or the ceiling?

The ceiling. That’s because smoke rises and tends to accumulate near the ceiling. Ceiling mounts offer the earliest possible warning in the event of fire, when seconds count.

About the Expert

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]]> 12 Best Home Improvement Projects Under $100 https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/home-improvement-projects-under-100/ Thu, 11 Mar 2021 22:02:26 +0000 A little can go a long way when it comes to home improvements. For just $100 you can make some big changes to your home.

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]]> A person fills a baby bottle with water from a modern kitchen faucet, set against a sleek countertop and cabinets, with a bowl of green fruit nearby.

Replace an Outdated Faucet

A new kitchen faucet is a huge plus and definitely stands out to home buyers. Faucets vary widely in price, but there are plenty of affordable, modern faucet options available for under $100.

A man paints a yellow cabinet in a room with teal walls, while protecting edges with blue tape. Plastic covers nearby furniture.

Paint Kitchen Cabinets

You don’t have to gut your kitchen to get that new look. A fresh coat of paint to your kitchen cabinets will make the whole room look like a million bucks. If you want to save a lot of time painting, consider investing in a paint sprayer.

A wooden bench sits beside a winding gravel path surrounded by colorful flowers and greenery in a tranquil garden setting.

DIY an Outdoor Walkway

Outdoor walkways vary widely in cost depending on the size and materials you’re using, but you don’t have to go all out to add big value to your home.

A cozy bedroom features a bed with soft linens and decorative pillows, surrounded by plants, shelves, and soft lighting, creating a warm, inviting atmosphere.

Paint an Accent Wall

Accent walls are great for any room of the house. Popular options include behind your bed or in a laundry room or bathroom. Go bold with a vibrant color or maybe add some wood design for a different look.

A wooden mailbox with a black top and red flag stands beside a sidewalk, displaying the number "640," surrounded by residential greenery and a paved road.

Upgrade Your Mailbox

Building a mailbox is probably easier than you think, and it won’t cost a fortune.

A mantel displays two frames and a vase with foliage above a stone fireplace, complemented by shelves holding various decorative items in a cozy room.

Paint or Whitewash Fireplace

Whether you go with a bold dark look or something a little more subtle like a whitewash, there are a lot of inexpensive fireplace décor ideas that will add big value to your home.

A wall outlet emits a soft light, illuminating the area around it, against a plain wall and carpet, providing low-level lighting.

Upgrade Outlets

It might seem like a major upgrade, but switching out traditional outlets for something modern with USB or WiFi capabilities will add functionality and style.

A black cabinet features shiny, round knobs; one is white while others are silver. The setting is minimalistic with a light, neutral background.

Install Modern Kitchen Hardware

Picking the right kitchen hardware for your home can be confusing, but staying on trend will tie the room together.

String lights glow warmly, illuminating a scene among trees during dusk, creating a cozy atmosphere with blurred background lights.

Hang String Lights

String lights provide incredible ambiance to your outdoor living area and aren’t difficult to hang.

A white vessel sink sits on a wooden countertop, reflecting a large mirror. Wall-mounted lights illuminate a neatly organized bathroom space with towels and plants.

Frame Out Your Bathroom Mirror

Take an old, outdated mirror and give it a modern look for a low cost with some wood trim.

Carpeted stair treads are positioned on wooden steps, facilitating safe movement between levels in a well-lit indoor space. Banister posts are visible alongside.

Install a Stair Runner

Stair runners come in all shapes, sizes and styles to fit your space. A soft carpet feel is nice on your feet and might hide the sound of a squeaky step.

A hand reaches toward a metallic doorknob on a wooden door, preparing to grasp it for entry. The surrounding area appears minimal and uncluttered.

Swap Out Door Handles

The cost of switching out your home’s door handles will vary based on how many doors are in your house and how high-end you want to go. A modern sleek black finish is a much better look than an old gold or silver look. But find the style that fits best with the rest of your home.

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]]> 10 Bad DIY Habits You Need to Stop Doing Immediately https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/bad-diy-habits-need-stop/ Wed, 03 Mar 2021 19:34:49 +0000 These bad DIY habits might be costing you more than just time and money.

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]]> A yellow hard hat and safety goggles rest on weathered wood, alongside worn leather gloves and sturdy brown work boots, suggesting preparation for construction work.

Improper Safety Equipment Usage

Using proper safety equipment is important whether you’re making one cut or 100. Whether it’s eyewear, ear protection, gloves, shoes or something else, always make sure you’re taking the necessary safety measures.

A man kneels on a wooden floor, using a power drill to secure a board in a partially renovated kitchen with cabinetry and natural light.

Starting Projects and Not Finishing Them

Home improvement projects can add a lot of value to your home, but leaving work unfinished can undo a lot, if not all, of that effort. Finish driving those last screws or adding that touch-up paint before moving on to your next project.

A person connects electrical wires to a blue outlet box mounted on a wooden wall, using a tool in one hand while holding the wires with the other.

Taking on Too Complex of a Project

Finding the right contractor for your project isn’t always easy, but that doesn’t mean you should take it on yourself. If the project you’re considering exceeds your level of expertise, shop around for a few quotes. Don’t risk doing more damage trying to fix the initial issue.

Two people are painting a wall with blue paint, smiling and enjoying the task in a light, airy room with wood flooring.

Not Priming Before Painting

Choosing the right paint primer is sometimes just as important as choosing the right paint. Unless you’re using an all-in-one paint and primer, don’t skip the priming step. It will show.

A hand uses a putty knife to apply white compound on a wooden surface, with tools and paint cans visible in a workshop setting.

Replacing Something That Can Be Fixed

Doing easy home repairs instead of hiring out or buying a replacement part can pay big dividends. Before replacing kitchen cabinets or an old appliance, first see if there’s a way it can be fixed.

A man holds a paint roller in one hand and a paintbrush in the other, displaying a frustrated expression in front of a plain white background.

Only Using One Coat of Paint

Some high-end paints only require one coat. But if you’re buying low-end or even average-grade paint, you likely will need multiple coats. Learn how to paint like a pro and pick up some great tips from professional painters.

A man secures protective covering on kitchen cabinetry, preparing for maintenance. The environment features blue tape, wooden cabinets, a sink, and a stove in a teal-painted kitchen.

Underestimating Project Expenses

Project budgets have a tendency to increase in a hurry. Whether you’re planning an extension or fixing up the house, enter the project with a comprehensive plan and build in a cost buffer for anything unexpected.

A hand uses a pencil to mark lines on a brown sheet of material while a yellow square tool measures alongside, on a blue surface.

Eyeballing Instead of Measuring

Measuring and marking can feel laborious, but it’s important. One bad measurement can throw off all the remaining cuts. So make sure you measure each time. And don’t cut corners.

Wooden planks lie haphazardly on a concrete floor, with nails protruding from some, surrounded by wood shavings and debris from a renovation.

Using Cheap Materials or Equipment

Salvaging old materials can be a great way to cut down costs, but not at the expense of quality work. Wood scraps are perfect for fun, small projects. But unless they’re in great condition, avoid them for major repairs.

A man stands with open arms in a cluttered garage filled with tools and equipment, showcasing the disorganized space.

Not Cleaning Up

Fight the urge to leave your tools and materials laying around at the end of the day, especially if you have children or pets. Always clean up and store your materials when you’re done, then bring them back out whenever you pick up the work.

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]]> 9 Things Electricians Always Do In Their Own Homes https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/things-electricians-always-do/ https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/things-electricians-always-do/#respond Mon, 22 Feb 2021 18:14:53 +0000 Before you attempt any DIY electrical work, learn the habits and best practices that are second nature to professional electricians.

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]]> A man kneels, connecting wires inside a partially constructed building, with tools nearby and a lamp illuminating the workspace amidst wooden framing.

Don’t Take Chances at Work or at Home

If you ever flip a light switch, plug in a toaster or charge a smartphone, you are handling electricity. And while these tasks are simple and not risky, the reality is, your home’s electrical system is complex and potentially dangerous, says Christopher Haas, owner of Haas & Sons Electric in Maryland.

Electrocution, Haas says, occurs more frequently with 120 volts of electricity — the standard in a home — than any other level of voltage.

“And, unfortunately (home electrocution) claims lives every single year,” Haas says. “So, don’t think of it as ‘just’ 120 volts — think of it as something that could permanently injure you.”

How can you keep yourself safe while also keeping your lights, outlets, and appliances in good working order? Start by following the same set of upkeep guidelines and best practices that pro electricians follow. Here are nine things professional electricians always do in their own homes.

A hand removes a light bulb from a white ceiling fixture, surrounded by wooden panels overhead.

Use the Correct Lightbulbs

When the bulb in your favorite lamp or fixture burns out, do you just run to the store and grab the first replacement bulb you see, or do you make sure you are purchasing the correct bulb? If the grab-and-go option is your standard operating procedure, it’s time to rethink the process.

“Make sure you put the correct wattage bulb into the fixture,” says Jake McKusker, general manager of McKusker Electric in Mead, Col. (McKusker also works with ProTip, an app that offers real-time advice to DIYers).

Why is this important? Because if you use a 100-watt bulb in a fixture designed for 40-watts of power, McKusker says you will essentially “cook” the fixture. This will degrade the wires and create a fire hazard. The extra light output is not worth the risk! Likewise, low wattage is likely to leave you sitting in a dark room.

How do you determine how many watts you need? Look at your lamp or fixture. You should see a small sticker or printed text telling you how many watts are required. Then find a lightbulb that matches.

Chirping Smoke Detectors

Check Carbon Monoxide and Smoke Detectors Regularly

You’re probably aware you’re supposed to check the batteries in your smoke and carbon monoxide detectors regularly. But are you actually following these safety guidelines from the U.S. Fire Administration? It’s likely that you’re not.

“Most people don’t test them until they start chirping,” says McKusker.

Electricians, however, are really good about keeping up with this task, because they know the stakes are high if they put it off. Namely, you might sleep through a fire or fail to recognize a carbon monoxide leak. The rules, which apply to all smoke and CO detectors (even those that are hard-wired into your home’s electrical system) are straightforward:

    • Check your smoke detector and CO detector batteries once a month;
    • Replace the batteries once a year, even if they still seem to be working;
    • Replace the entire unit every 10 years because the devices are only designed to last a decade.
A black athletic shoe features a mesh upper with a diamond pattern, designed for comfort and breathability, suitable for various active environments.

Always Wear Shoes With Rubber Soles When Working With Electricity

Wait, so you shouldn’t wear flip-flops while accessing my circuit breaker or installing a new electrical outlet? Absolutely not, warns McKusker. If you inadvertently step in any water, or slip and come into contact with a live wire, it’s possible you’ll experience electrical shock. To stay safe, electricians wear closed-toe shoes with rubber soles, whether on the jobsite or doing electrical upgrades at home.

“A thick rubber sole will help insulate you from grounding out,” McKusker says. Following these electrical safety tips, wearing protective gloves and other safety gear is a good idea too.

Don’t worry — this doesn’t mean you have to go out and buy a special pair of shoes for that once-in-a-blue-moon home electrical repair. Just be smart about the shoes you put on your feet. Or maybe invest in a pair that you can wear for various DIY projects.

A hand holds a voltage tester, measuring voltage at a wall outlet, displaying "121" on its screen against a neutral-colored wall.

Always Use Voltage Testers With Displays

Naturally, professional electricians always check the voltage before they start working with the wires — and so should you! But they don’t use any old voltage tester.

“I personally recommend (that) people always use a tester with a display, whether it be digital or analog,” McKusker says.

A full display, he says, is a better choice than pin-style testers that only indicate the presence of voltage without giving specifics. If the voltage is low, a pin-style tester might not “read” it — but you could still get shocked.

Digital and analog voltage testers with displays will let you know exactly how many volts of electricity are running through wires so you’ll know whether it is safe to proceed. If it turns out your wire is “live,” you can stop, troubleshoot and avoid electrical shock.

A laptop charges from a wall outlet, resting on a sleek countertop with a coffee mug, a decorative box, and a potted plant nearby.

Use Outlets With Internal USB Ports

If you’re like us, you probably have USB power adapters to charge your phone, tablet, and other devices cluttering up the electrical outlets all over your house. Not only do these adapters take up valuable outlet space, they also tend to disappear right when you need to charge something.

Electricians know the secret to avoiding the hassle — they install electrical outlets with the USB ports built right in. This means you don’t have to choose between charging your device and turning on a lamp, and you won’t have to hope that you can actually find an adapter when you need one.

“All you have to have is the cord to plug it in,” says McKusker.

A hand presses a power outlet on a wooden wall, with electrical conduit visible. The outlet is mounted in a metal box.

Test Their GFCIs Monthly

You probably already know electricians always use ground-fault circuit-interrupter (GFCI) outlets outdoors and in specific indoor areas of the home, such as bathrooms, kitchens, laundry rooms and crawlspaces. But did you know that installing the GFCI is just the beginning?

GFCIs need to be tested regularly to be sure they function properly, says McKusker. He advises testing them once a month or on the manufacturer’s schedule. How do you conduct the test? In most cases, you simply press the “test” button on the outlet. The basic instructions are:

  • Plug an appliance into the outlet. A hairdryer works well for testing, but you can use a lamp if you prefer.
  • Turn on the appliance and press the (usually red) test button.
  • If the GFCI is working properly, the appliance will “trip” — meaning electricity will stop flowing to the appliance and the test button will pop out.

“If it trips, it is working correctly,” McKusker says. “If it doesn’t trip, that is a big indicator that you (shouldn’t) use it,” McKusker says a GFCI that doesn’t trip needs to be replaced immediately.

What if you have a new GFCI that keeps tripping? In this case, the device you are plugging into it could be the culprit. Try another appliance to be sure, then replace that faulty hair dryer, lamp or toaster.

A tablet displays smart home controls, showing room statuses and settings in a modern kitchen environment with wooden shelves and appliances in the background.

Automate as Much as Possible

Electricians know that devices like programmable thermostats, lighting timers/motion sensors and electronic door-locking systems (including those that are smart/WiFi enabled) offer much more than convenience. They also offer a sense of security and save money and energy.

How? With a programmable thermostat, you can potentially reduce heating and cooling costs by up to 10 percent, according to the U.S. Department of Energy.

Lights with timers and motion sensors allow you to make sure lights are not left on unnecessarily. McKusker says he sometimes installs motion sensor lights in kids’ rooms, because kids are notorious for leaving lights on. That’s bound to help with your monthly power bill.

Motion sensors and timed lighting also offer a sense of security. You’ll know your outdoor lighting will come on, for example, if someone is creeping around in your yard late at night. Automatic/smart door locks let you unlock your front door from your driveway, and some can even monitor the arrival and departure of family members.

“Once people utilize this type of technology, they generally don’t go back,” says Dan Mock, brand manager for Mister Sparky, a national electrical services franchise.

A hand is adjusting a circuit breaker in a gray electrical panel. The panel is mounted on a wall in an indoor setting.

Maintain Their Electrical Panel

If you have stacks of boxes, shelving or random incidentals stacked in front your electrical panel (also known as a circuit breaker or breaker box), it might be time to consider what an electrician would do clear the area. Otherwise, you’re creating an unnecessary hassle and a fire hazard.

“Your electrical panel should be clean and accessible,” says Mock. Blocking access to the panel, he says, makes it more difficult if you or the fire department needs to access the panel quickly. Unfortunately, electrical malfunction results in 51,000 fires each year, according to the Electrical Safety Foundation International. Sometimes those fires originate in the electrical panel.

Furthermore, it’s vital to make sure all the switches on your electrical panel are properly labeled and kept “on,” Mock says. If you’re unsure about the labels, consider calling an electrician to help sort it out.

And definitely don’t ignore an electrical panel that is constantly tripping. That’s a sign of a short circuit or some other problem that needs to be addressed immediately.

Two hands hold red and black lead wires, connecting with a visible spark or energy discharge, against a soft, light blue background.

Respect Electricity

Finally, and most importantly, electricians understand that electricity is powerful, so they treat it with respect. This means following code and safety guidelines at all times, Haas says, and understanding that shortcuts are never an option. Shortcuts, he says, can quickly lead to injury.

As a homeowner, you can respect electricity by checking and double checking to make sure the power is off before you start working with your electrical system. And don’t even attempt electrical projects unless you are 100 percent confident in your knowledge and skills. If there’s any doubt, call a pro.

“It is better to be safe than sorry,” Haas says.

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