Pouring a concrete slab yourself can be a big money-saver or a big mistake. We show you the best techniques and tools so you get it right the first time.

Learn more tips, here.

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Hammer drills and rotary hammers are both excellent for drilling masonry. Rotary hammers are more powerful, though, and have a “hammer-only” mode with no rotation. They usually have an SDS chuck, which is better for hammering.

Sure, you can drill a hole or two in a concrete block with a regular drill and a masonry bit, but you’ll want to step it up a notch if you have a whole bunch of holes to drill into 50-year-old concrete. In this story, we’ll give you the lowdown on the differences between what is a hammer drill and a rotary hammer, and help you figure out which tool is right for you. We’ll also show you some cool bits and accessories and share some useful tips on how to get the most out of these handy tools.

Hammer Drill vs. Rotary Hammer

Hammer drills and rotary hammers (also called rotary hammer drills) both produce a pounding force that makes them extremely efficient at blasting through masonry. As the hammer drill spins, the bit chisels away at the masonry. The mechanical process that delivers this pounding action is what separates the two tools.

Figure A: Inside a Hammer Drill

A hammer drill has two discs that have ridges resembling the ridges on a poker chip (see Figure A). As one hammer drill disc slides past the other, it rises and falls, causing the chuck to slam forward and back. If there is no force on the chuck, the discs are separated by a clutch and the pounding action stops. This saves wear and tear. Many hammer drills can be used as a regular drill by switching off the hammering action.

Figure B: Inside a Rotary Hammer

A rotary hammer creates its pounding action with a piston driven by a crankshaft (see Figure B). The piston rides in a cylinder and creates air pressure when driven forward, and it’s the air pressure that actually drives the hammer mechanism. Rotary hammers provide a lot more impact energy than hammer drills. They’re much more durable and are the preferred tool of the pros. Another big advantage is that most rotary hammers have three settings: drill mode, hammer drill or just hammer, so they can act as a mini jackhammer. Of course, a rotary hammer costs more than a hammer drill, but more on that later.

Hammer Drill Bits

A hammer drill is perfect for light masonry. It works best at drilling holes in bricks, mortar and concrete blocks. But it can also handle the occasional hole in poured concrete.

You don’t need to spend tons of money on hammer drill bits, but more expensive bits are usually equipped with superior carbide tips, and the tips are more securely attached to the shank of the bits, which reduces breakage in heavy use.

Rotary Hammer Bits and Attachments

The most popular type of chuck on the shelves at home centers today is the SDS-Plus. SDS-Plus bits have grooves on the shanks that lock securely into the chuck but allow the bit to move back and forth independently of the chuck. They’re super easy to insert and remove—no tools required. Some of the really big rotary hammers have a similar system, but larger called the SDS-Max. And there are a couple brands that have proprietary systems, so make sure the bit you buy matches the tool you’re using.

When set to hammer mode, rotary hammers can be used for all sorts of jobs, and there are a whole lot of attachments to get those jobs done.

A few of the more popular attachments are shown in the photo:

• Clay spade: Breaks up hard soil.
• Cold chisel: For busting up concrete.
• Tile remover: Works well for pulling up ceramic tiles.
• Bull point chisel: Used to start holes in concrete.
• Scaling chisel: Designed to remove rust, concrete and weld spatter.

If you already own a rotary hammer and are looking for a heavy-duty drill to bore large holes in wood or mix joint compound, consider buying an SDS-Plus chuck adapter (shown in the third photo). This adapter will allow you to use smooth-shank drill bits, hole saws and mixing paddles. Just remember to keep the setting on drill mode or you could destroy the chuck.

Rotary Hammers Are for Larger Jobs

Rotary hammers excel at drilling holes in hardened concrete. A rotary hammer can also be fitted with all sorts of other attachments.

Rotary Hammer Accessories

Rotary hammer accessories include a variety of chisels for scaling metal, breaking concrete, removing the tile and even digging the hard soil. (The one on the left is for an SDS-Max chuck.) You can also add a three-jaw chuck for regular drill bits.

SDS-Plus Chuck Adapter

This adapter will allow you to use smooth-shank drill bits, hole saws and mixing paddles. Just remember to keep the setting on drill mode or you could destroy the chuck.

Learn about 5 more must-have drill accessories here.

Choosing Between a Rebar Bit and Standard Bit

You can spend $50 on a hammer drill that will drill 1/2-in. holes in most masonry, but spending more will get you two things: the ability to drill bigger holes and—more important—faster drilling, which is great when you have lots of holes to drill.

The pounding power of a hammer drill is measured in BPM (beats/blows per minute). But the BPM rating isn’t the whole story: Motor amperage and how the drill feels in your hands are more important. All-metal chucks are more durable than ones with plastic parts. And while keyless chucks are handy on a regular drill, they often don’t have the holding power needed for drilling into masonry. Chuck size often dictates the maximum recommended hole size the drill can handle.

The pounding power of a rotary hammer is measured in pounds of impact energy. When shopping for rotary hammers, more amp power is good, but more impact energy is even more important. Rotary hammers are categorized by the maximum-size hole recommended by the manufacturer, but that doesn’t mean they can’t drill a larger hole once in a while. If you need a drill for nothing but 7/8-in. holes, buy a larger drill that won’t have to work at its maximum capacity all the time.

Cordless Drills

If you already own cordless tools, check to see whether the same company makes a hammer drill or rotary hammer that works with the same batteries. Sometimes you can buy a cordless tool without the battery cheaper than you can buy a corded one.

4 Tips for Drilling Into Concrete

1. Clear the Debris

The flutes on a drill bit are designed to pull up the debris from the hole as you drill, but the best way to clear the hole is to occasionally pull the bit out of the hole as you’re drilling. Less debris in the hole reduces friction, which means smoother drilling, less chance of binding and longer-lasting drill bits.

2. Don’t Push Too Hard

There’s a “sweet spot” where the right rpm combined with the right pressure drills fastest. But you won’t find that sweet spot by pushing down as hard as you can. In fact, too much pressure will slow the drilling process and put a whole lot of unnecessary wear and tear on the motor gears. Plus, you’ll break bits.

3. Avoid Over Drilling

Most hammer drills and rotary hammers are sold with a side handle and depth stop. Do yourself a favor and use them. There’s no reason to burn up both time and bits by drilling deeper holes than you need to. And you don’t always want to drill all the way through a concrete block to its hollow core—some plastic anchors need a back to stop them or they will get pushed right through the hole.

4. Drill a Smaller Hole First

If you need to drill a couple holes that are larger than the recommended capacity of your drill, start with a smaller hole first. This will significantly reduce the load on the drill. Also, smaller bits don’t skate around as much as larger bits do, which is helpful when you need a hole in a precise spot.

Learn some tips for getting the most out of your drill press here.

The post Rotary Drill vs. Hammer Drill: What’s the Difference? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Buy PDF & Cut List

To build my concrete bench, I used three bags of Quikrete 5000 to pour the top and both legs. These bags are heavy — 80 lbs. each — so three bags will probably weigh about as much as your big Uncle Billy. It’s certainly deliverable in a standard passenger car.

Don’t substitute anything else for this mix. The 5000 formula has high early strength and will retain its integrity when you remove the forms, guaranteeing a sturdy, crack-free bench.

Along with the four-foot lengths of rebar, be sure you’ve got a mixing tub like the one shown here or a wheelbarrow with a shovel. You’ll also need a garden hoe for mixing, a finishing trowel for smoothing, a half sheet of 3/4-in. plywood and a quarter sheet of 1/2-in. plywood.

You should also pick up some acrylic wood finish, paste wax and a small box of 2-in. self-drilling wood screws (GRK fasteners). The materials will cost about $75.

See the drawings below for the dimensions of the bench forms.

Cut the Form Pieces

Cut the form pieces with a table saw or a circular saw with a guide for consistent straight cuts. Assemble the form using 2-in. wood screws to secure the parts of the form. Some clamps will come in handy to help bend the pieces as you assemble.

Assemble the Form

The 3/4-in. plywood ends and the 1/2-in. plywood sides (flexibility is the key to the curved sides) are screwed to the 3/4-in.-thick base. Cut a 41-in. x 10-1/2-in. piece of 1/2-in. plywood to make the insert. Place the insert into the form and then make a scribing tool to follow the edge of the form. Mark a line 3-1/2 in. from the form’s edge as shown.

The scribing tool is just a scrap of wood with a hole drilled into it for your pencil or marker. Cut the insert to size and then glue and screw it to the base.

Seal the Form

Seal the interior of the form with acrylic varnish and let it dry. Then rub a film of paste wax over the inner form.

Cut the Rebar

Measure and cut the 1/2-in. steel rebar to fit in the forms. Make sure the lengths are about 1-1/2-in. shy of each end of the form. Bend the forms into a gentle curve to follow the form’s contour. I used the fence post to bend the shape.

Cut the Bases

Cut the bases for the leg forms from 3/4-in. plywood and center and trace your plastic form insert. I used a 4-in. snap coupler for drainage pipe that I picked up at The Home Depot. The outside diameter is actually five inches. You can use other shapes or even bend a round shape into an oval.

Assemble the Leg Forms

Cut and assemble the leg forms pieces according to the dimensions in Fig. C below. Glue the insert in with adhesive caulk or construction adhesive and let it dry overnight.

Prepare the Forms

Brush on the acrylic varnish to cover the entire inner surface of the forms. Once it’s dry, apply the paste wax as you did with the form for the top.

Mix the Concrete

Mix the concrete to the consistency shown above in your mixing tub or wheelbarrow. It should hold its shape when shoveled into the form, but spread easily with a trowel.

A runny mix is bad and will weaken the bench. The mix needs to be thick enough to keep its sand, stones and the rebar in suspension. Always wear protective clothing to avoid skin contact with wet concrete. Protective eyewear is a must.

Level the Concrete

Level the concrete into the forms to about two-thirds full. Don’t work the concrete too much. With concrete, less is more.

Bring the Air Bubbles to the Surface

Gently hammer around the outside of the forms to bring the air bubbles to the surface. You also want some of the stones in the mix to settle to the bottom of the form. I used about 20 taps per side and bottom.

Lay the Rebar

Lay the rebar into the concrete and then fill the form to the top with more concrete. If you haven’t mixed your second bag yet, do so. As long as you mix the concrete in closely timed sessions, they will bond together. The concrete can begin to set up in as little as an hour in warm weather, so stay on task.

Level the Concrete Again

Level the concrete with the form and tap gently again. Keep the pour in the shade and cover it with a plastic tarp until you’re ready to remove the form. Do not do this in direct sunshine.

Continue Filling the Forms

Mix the rest of the concrete and then fill the leg forms in the same manner. Lay the concrete in as you go. Tap the legs about half as much as you did for the sides and bottom.

Carefully Unscrew the Form

Remove the forms for the top after about 40 hours. Unscrew one side at a time. Proceed gently because the concrete is at a ‘green stage,’ which means it’s still fairly fragile.

Slowly Remove the Form

Tip the bench top on edge and tap gently and often to release the base portion of the form. This one will be stubborn because of the large surface area. Take your time.

Let the Concrete Harden

Your finished product will look like this or perhaps even smoother. If it’s smooth, you can let it continue to harden that way. Since mine was rough, I wanted to expose more of the aggregate (small stones) in the finish.

Remove the Smooth Concrete (optional)

I used a wire brush setup in my drill and gently removed the smooth concrete to reveal the aggregate below. Be gentle so you preserve the integrity of the surface.

Hose the Top

As you can see, the stones that settled to the bottom of the form are now exposed. Hose the top down with a firm spray of water from the garden hose and let the surface harden for another couple of days.

Remove the Legs

Two days after the pour, remove the legs from their forms.

Prep the Insert for Removal

Pry the edges of the plastic insert, being careful not to mar the concrete surface. Next, score the plastic carefully with a utility knife to loosen it from the concrete.

Pull the Insert Out of the Form With Pliers

Smooth the Legs

Smooth the rough edges of the bench legs and top with an abrasive. I used an old 100-grit sanding belt, but a tile-smoothing stone will work as well.

Prepare Your Inlay Materials

Lay out the materials you’ll need to make the inlay. Use a thin-set mortar that’ll work for exterior applications and find some stones or tile to inlay your design. I bought these at a local tile supply store, but you can use found stones as well. Just be sure your stones are all about the same height.

Place the Stones

Mix the thin-set mortar to a peanut butter consistency and then start setting the stones. It’s a good idea to practice a bit with the stones before you actually set them to get your brain oriented to the puzzle-like task.

Clean Up the Excess Mortar

Wipe off any drips of mortar because they will be difficult to remove if they set. You’ll need to wait till the next day to seal and then grout between the stones.

Seal the Stones

Apply a grout and stone sealer to the tops of the stones. This sealer will help keep the grout haze off the surface of the stones. Don’t get the sealer between the stones, only on the top. Wait a day before grouting.

Grout the Inlay

Push the grout into the spaces between the stones, and let it set for an hour before wiping with a sponge.

Clean up Excess Grout

Now you can get a feel for the finished look as you wipe the grout with a damp sponge. Don’t use too much water or the grout will weaken.

Set the project aside for a few days before assembling. When assembling, use a landscape block adhesive to join the mating part.

Do a dry run first, then mark the part locations and then apply the adhesive. Let the adhesive set for a day before you use your bench. After about four weeks, apply a concrete sealer to your bench top and sides to give it added protection from moisture and freeze cycles. If upgrading your pathway has been long overdue, here are a few tips to upgrade to a Quikrete walkway.

— David Radtke, Contributing Editor

The post How To Build A Stone Inlay Concrete Bench appeared first on Family Handyman.

Traditional Gray Slab

When you think of concrete countertops, this might be the first image that pops into your mind. This is about as traditional as you can get. The countertop is understated and the color resembles what a crayon called “concrete slab” would look like. If you want the basic concrete look, you can definitely make it work. If you want a small concrete table to match your countertops, you can make it yourself—here’s how!

Dark Elegance

Concrete is the Meryl Streep of countertop materials. It can play many different roles and succeed at all of them. While concrete might make some homeowners think of their utilitarian outdoor sidewalks, clever homeowners can envision concrete livening up their kitchen. This dark and marbled concrete countertop looks elegant, smooth and luxurious. Want floor tile that will look great with your concrete countertop? Then choose luxury vinyl tile and install it yourself.

We know you won’t regret your concrete countertop but you may regret these other kitchen trends.

Make it Modern with Stainless

Modern concrete countertops are a perfect companion to stainless steel appliances. This thin, light gray countertop aligns nicely with the cabinets, backsplash and stainless appliances. These countertops would also look great alongside super-trendy black stainless appliances.

Want to know the secret to keeping your stainless steel smudge free? It’s so simple!

Unsure if stainless appliances are right for you? Read the pros and cons to help you decide.

The Perfect Addition to a Farmhouse Kitchen

One of the best places for a concrete countertop is in a farmhouse-style kitchen. Farmhouse kitchens aren’t going away anytime soon and a kitchen island or counter like this one shows how seamlessly concrete blends with this warm country aesthetic. Here are 20 easy ways to add farmhouse style to any home.

Black Concrete

Concrete countertops come in a range of colors from bright white to black, like the one shown here. If you’re like most people considering concrete, you may be concerned about how porous it is. Fortunately, that isn’t a problem if you seal the countertop correctly. If it’s not sealed, you can expect unsightly oil or food stains. Dark concrete countertops generally hide flaws better than their lighter counterparts. Unsure if you want concrete counters? Here are pros and cons of countertop materials to help you decide.

Check out these dark cabinet ideas if you’re tired of the classic white kitchen.

Stone Artwork

If you were the kid (there’s always one) who collected rocks, then you will love this countertop artfully embellished with colored stones. This concrete countertop also features a built-in dish drying rack on the right side of the sink. Bring your passion for stones outside by making your own stone path. Or, create an outdoor bench with stone inlay.

Warming Up With Red

This concrete countertop caught our eye because of the subtle red tone. Imagine how great this countertop would look in a less busy room, furnished with neutral furniture and light walls.

The Bold “Live-Edge”

While live-edge tables are all the rage, custom concrete fabricators are on-trend with their live-edge countertops. This live-edge island countertop has a unique shape and an eye-catching swirled design. It’s kind of like looking at an agate as a focal point for your kitchen, which is pretty cool!

If you like the idea of a focal-point kitchen island, take a look at these for inspiration.

Keep It Neutral

If you’re drawn to brownish natural earth tones, don’t count out concrete countertops. These burnt umber countertops fit perfectly in a home nestled in the woods.

Interested in cabins? Daydream about having one of these 16 showstoppers.

Love rustic barn doors? Here are complete instructions for one you can make yourself!

Compact Kitchen with Extra Design

Concrete countertops are ideal in a small kitchen like this. They provide a neutral canvas for the dark wood cabinets and shelves. This kitchen is anchored by vertical concrete accents that give the kitchen more depth and character. This kitchen may only comfortably fit 1 or 2 people, but then when it looks this great, who cares? Here’s a collection of small kitchen space-saving tips.

Feeling Tropical

This look is not for farmhouse or ultra-modern enthusiasts. It’s for people who want color, fun and sun in their kitchen. These green countertops aren’t for everyone, but they showcase how creative you can be with color if you choose concrete. We’ll leave you to decide on just the right color for your countertop. Want to paint your kitchen cabinets? Then follow these 20 helpful tips.

Also, check out these trending cabinet colors and brainstorm what color concrete countertop would be their best match.

The Counter-Floor Combo

Everyone likes a good tone-on-tone combination whether it’s your favorite sweater set or kitchen tile. We love this pairing of concrete countertops and a concrete floor, broken up by lush wood cabinets. It creates a seamless look without feeling too cold. However, if you are looking at this and thinking about how cold your feet would be on a concrete floor, have no fear! You can install radiant floor heat yourself after choosing the best floor-warming system for your home.

If you know you want an electric heated floor system, then read up on the differences between these three options.

The Marbled Look

If unique marble or granite has always caught your eye, remember that a concrete countertop can have that same one-of-a-kind look. We love how beautiful these marbled concrete countertops look in this classic kitchen. Expand your creativity with one of these eight faux marble projects.

Interested in painting a faux marble table? It’s simple when you follow these steps.

Mixed Shapes and Colors

Due to the way concrete countertops are made, they can be pretty much any shape you’d like. This combination of a cream circle and a light gray rectangular certainly stands out. Keep your kitchen clean by following these tips.

While you’re at it, check out these tips for the home cook.

Concrete Bar That’s Out of This World

Concrete counter tops aren’t only for indoors. If you want an outdoor bar or kitchen, then consider concrete. And, if you’d like the bar to resemble the night sky, that’s definitely an option. This particular bar is speckled by day and lights up at night!

If you’d rather have a bar inside, check out this DIY bar cart.

The post 15 Concrete Countertops We Think Are Really Cool appeared first on Family Handyman.

Multi-Level Patio with Water Feature

A backyard waterfall and stream will add beauty and peaceful sounds to your patio. In addition to a water feature, this multi-level poured-concrete patio designs from Goodmanson Construction has plenty of low-maintenance landscaping to add splashes of color.

Photo: Courtesy of Goodmanson Construction

Here’s our list of luxurious multi level decks with sweeping views and multiple seating areas.

Poolside Patio with Pergola

Build a pergola to add some shade to your backyard patio. This poolside patio design from Reynolds-Sebastiani Design Services offers plenty of space to relax, along with a separate area for dining.

Photo: Courtesy of Reynolds-Sebastiani Design Services

Patio Kitchen with Pergola

This outdoor kitchen by Design Builders will inspire any home cook to ditch their indoor kitchen when the weather’s nice.

Photo: Courtesy of Design Builders

Asian-Inspired Patio

This Asian-inspired patio design from Second Chance Design features a relaxing sitting area with comfortable patio furniture. Selecting your furniture to match your patio’s overall design helps create a cohesive, fully-realized setting. Psst! Also check out the Element outdoor TV to turn your deck into the entertainment area of your dreams, that too on a budget.

Photo: Courtesy of Second Chance Design

Multi-Level Patio Designs with Brick Fire Pit

Build a stone or brick patio that you can easily adapt to your own yard. This patio from Landscape East & West features a multi-level design with separate areas for eating and relaxing around the fire pit.

Photo: Courtesy of Landscape East & West

Patio with Modern Landscaping

For those with small yards, this moderns mall backyard patio design from Austin Outdoor Design features a cooking/dining area and some minimalist landscaping. Get to know these ornamental grasses if you’d like a similar look in your yard.

Photo: Courtesy of Austin Outdoor Design

Paver Patio

Decorative brick or stone is DIY-friendly and results in a classic, tidy-looking patio paver. If you already have a concrete patio, you can cover it with pavers to get a different look.

Photo: Courtesy of Brookstein Services

Large, Open Patio

This large, open, raised patio from Treesdale Landscape Company is built with retaining wall blocks. A raised patio planter would make a great addition to a large, open patio and helps add a splash of color.

Photo: Courtesy of The Treesdale Landscape Company

Sun-Soaked Small Backyard Patio

Here’s a great alternative to a grass lawn. This small backyard patio from Sacred Space Gardens is surrounded by some ornamental grass and large stepping stones.

Photo: Courtesy of Sacred Space Gardens

Concrete Patio with Fire Pit

A metal fire pit is at the center of this concrete patio from Cedar Creek Landscaping. The curved edges of the small backyard patio help it blend right in to the backyard.

Photo: Courtesy of Cedar Creek Landscaping

Patio with Grilling Station

This brick patio includes the ultimate grilling station, along with an outdoor sink for easy cleanup. If you’re designing an outdoor kitchen, laying down a wide, open brick patio is a great place to start.

Photo: Courtesy of Teacup Gardener

You can also bring these gifts for patio when you’re invited for outdoor fun times!

Enclosed Patio

An enclosed patio lets you use the space even on rainy days. Turn your backyard into a space as comfortable as any other room in your home by building a screened-in patio.

Photo: Courtesy of Dayton Deck Builder

Stone Patio with Pond

Consider building a low-maintenance pond next to a small patio. This design from Stone Age Landscaping offers a small sitting area, just big enough for two patio chairs.

Photo: Courtesy of Stone Age Landscaping

Fire Pit Centerpiece

The fire pit is the centerpiece of this stone patio from Ageless Concrete. If you’re looking to build a place in your yard perfect for long conversations, a rounded patio with plenty of seating will absolutely do the trick.

Photo: Courtesy of Ageless Concrete

Patio with Retaining Wall

This patio, built on a slope, offers an area for entertaining, relaxing or enjoying the fire. It’s surrounded by a strong retaining wall that can double as additional seating.

Photo: Courtesy of Roots Landscaping

FAQ

What are the best materials for a patio surface?

There are many options to consider for a patio surface. Brick and natural stone offer a classic look and are very sturdy, making them some of the best options. Concrete pavers are a great choice because they come in several different colors, textures and sizes, but they do require sealing every two to three years and cleaning. Other options, like ceramic tile or porcelain, are low maintenance but not suited for pool areas because they can be slippery.

How do I choose the right size for a patio?

When choosing the right size for your patio, you should consider how many people you’d like for it to accommodate and what the purpose of the area will be. If you plan to use it just for family time or lounging, a smaller patio would probably work best. If you love to host gatherings, then you’d opt for a bigger patio.

The post 15 Perfect Patio Designs appeared first on Family Handyman.

Don’t Drill too Close to Edges

Two mistakes you really want to avoid are busting off a chunk of a concrete stair step and cracking the corner of a patio slab. To avoid these disasters, don’t drill any closer than 4 in. from the edge. If there’s no other option, turn off the hammering action on the drill. Also, avoid wedge-type anchors. They exert a ton of outward pressure, which could literally “wedge” the concrete apart.

Blow Out the Dust

If drilling dust is left in the hole, it can prevent the fasteners from being driven all the way in. So remove it with a vacuum or blower. A baby’s ear syringe (about $5 at any drugstore) works great for this and doesn’t take up much room in a toolbox. Just shove it into the hole and puff out the dust.

Drill Right Through the Wood

Masonry drill bits will also plow through wood, so don’t be afraid to drill right through the wood and into the wall or slab. That makes it a lot easier to get the furring strip, or whatever you’re working with, exactly where you want it. Drill one hole and install that fastener first. (You’ll have better luck holding the board in place if you drill the first hole toward the middle.) Then go back and drill the rest of the holes and install those fasteners.

Use Panel Adhesive on Foam Insulation

When you’re fastening foam boards to a concrete or block wall, make sure you use a construction adhesive that’s specially designed for foam. Regular construction adhesive can melt through the foam, causing your panels to fall off 10 minutes after you put them up.

Note: You may want to waterproof the walls first, and if so, your local building codes may require you to seal all the seams. Check with a local building official for those details.

Minimize Masonry Fastening

Fastening to masonry isn’t all that difficult, but fastening to wood is easier; that’s why we attach drywall to furring strips instead of directly to concrete walls. For projects that require a bunch of fasteners, like a column of shelving, install strips of pressure-treated wood with a couple of fasteners, and attach the shelf brackets to that. You’ll save the expense and drudgery of all those extra masonry fasteners.

Don’t Drill Into Brick

Whenever you install a lightweight item like a downspout on brick, always drill into the mortar joints instead of the brick face. The brick is more likely to crack, and if the downspout ever needs to be moved, patching a hole in gray mortar is a lot easier than trying to match the color of the brick. Also, always install plastic anchors because metal anchors are more likely to crack the mortar when they expand.

Pound on the nut

We recommend sleeve anchors for heavy-duty projects. To install them, all you need to do is drill a hole, tap them in and then tighten the nut. Don’t tap directly on the bolt or you could damage the threads, making the nut nearly impossible to remove and reinstall. Loosen the nut so it extends slightly beyond the bolt to protect the threads, and then tap on the nut instead.

What You Should Know About Concrete Screws

Using concrete screws is fast and easy—you just drill a hole and screw them in the same as a wood screw. They work great for light- to medium-duty tasks like fastening shelving brackets, plumbing straps, electrical boxes and furring strips. Concrete screws don’t work well on old, crumbling concrete. And they lose much, if not all, of their holding power when they’re removed and reused in the same hole, so if you do have to pull one out, try to drill a new hole in another location.

Hydraulic Cement Prevents Cracking

When you’re fastening posts, poles, large bolts or rebar to concrete, drill an oversize hole and fill it with hydraulic cement. Hydraulic cement creates an extremely strong and weatherproof bond. It also holds up to repeated movement, which is why professional metal railing installers use it to anchor posts.

Hydraulic cement comes in a powder form and needs to be mixed with water. Soak (but don’t fill) the hole with water from a spray bottle; otherwise moisture will be sucked out of the mix by the surrounding concrete. And be sure you’re ready to go before you mix the cement—it dries in three to five minutes.

Hex vs. Flathead Screws

Hex-head screws are less likely to strip out, so use them when the screw head can sit proud of the surface, as it can on sill plates and plumbing straps. Flathead screws are the way to go when the screw head needs to be flush, such as with furring strips that will be clad with drywall or plywood.

Drill/Bit Combo Speeds Up the Process

Installing concrete screws is even faster with a drill bit/driver combination set like this one. The drill bit is covered by the removable sleeve that contains the driver. That way you don’t need to have two drills on hand, or to keep switching between drill bit and driver.

Drill 1/4 in. Deeper than the Length of the Screw

Set the depth gauge on your drill so the hole is 1/4 in. deeper than the length of the screw, keeping in mind the thickness of the material you’re working with. If your drill doesn’t have a depth gauge, wrap a little tape around the bit so you’ll know when to stop. Always drill the proper diameter hole. The container the screws come in will indicate which size bit to use. A bit is included in some larger containers.

Fasten Bottom Plates with a Powder-Actuated Tool

Many pro framers say the fastest way to attach bottom plates to a slab is with a powder-actuated tool (PAT). Most residential-grade PATs are powered by .22 caliber blank cartridges, which drive in nail-like fasteners. Place the fasteners about 5 ft. apart and within 6 in. of the end of a wall. Also, add a little construction adhesive for more holding power.

The PATs that require a hammer blow to fire the load and those that have a trigger are both available at home centers. Buy 2-1/2-in. fasteners so they will penetrate the concrete about 1 in. to 1-1/4 in. Wear safety glasses as well as hearing protection—these tools are loud.

The post Tips for Concrete Fasteners and Masonry Screws appeared first on Family Handyman.

Spray foam really is a magical tool for household insulation. Although fiberglass has been commonly use for insulation, spray foam can actually outperform it. Plus, with so many ways you can use expanding foam, this material certainly is handy. Now only if it could help us out with all of those concrete problems…

Oh wait, it actually can!

Geolift Spray Foam

Demilec, a company located in Texas, has invented a type of insulation foam that can help all of the cracks and uneven pavement problems. Geolift can help to lift existing concrete surfaces and fix those problem areas around your house with much less labor. Geolift works for driveways, sidewalks, patios, garage floors, even pool decks. And yes, it is a foam, just like your beloved spray foam!

How Geolift Works

Geolift works in three steps. The first step is to drill holes in the problem concrete. Holes should be no less than six inches away from the edge of the concrete.

Once the holes have been set, the Geolift is injected in between the concrete and the dirt. The foam will fill up the parts of the concrete that are uneven and will raise it to the proper height.

After the Geolift has done its’ magical work, the last thing left to do is patching up the holes. Patch up the holes with concrete, and your new driveway (or sidewalk, or walkway) will look good as new.

Geolift’s Pros and Cons

Not only will this magical foam help to meet codes and comply with your insurance, but the actual product is great for the environment. Geolift is made with 11 percent recyclable products (such as plastic and soy beans) and uses zero-ODP blowing agents.

Unfortunately, Geolift isn’t something you can just go buy at a store. But you can contact Demilec for all the parts and equipment you need. It may sound pricey, but trust us; it’s going to make you look rich after comparing the prices of normal concrete demolition and renovation.

The post This Spray Foam Will Fix Any of Your Concrete Problems appeared first on Family Handyman.

How to build a concrete wall prep work: Materials, tools and site

The wall we built was a weekend-long project and an exhausting one at that. It took a day to rip out the old, collapsing retaining wall, to dig farther into the hill to provide room for the backfill gravel and to help unload materials. It took another day to install the base, blocks and backfill.

Before launching into this concrete retaining wall project, contact your local building code official. Depending on the height and location of your wall, there may be structural, drainage and setback (the distance from the wall to property line) considerations. A permit may be required.

Unless you own a heavy-duty truck (and back!), have your blocks, compactable base gravel, sand and backfill gravel delivered. Blocks may cost slightly more at specialty landscaping stores than at home centers, but landscaping stores are often better equipped to deliver the small batches of base, sand and gravel that you’ll need for installing the concrete retaining wall blocks. rolling yard.

Learn about choosing retaining wall material here.

The Versa-Lok brand retaining wall system we installed uses nylon pins to align and secure horizontal rows of 80-lb. blocks. Other block systems use lips, gravity and filled cores to connect rows and increase strength. Your system may differ, but most of the preparation and installation steps remain the same.

We used a transit level to establish a flat base. But unless you own or rent one and know how to use it properly, just use a 4-ft. level taped to a long, straight 2×4, especially for short walls. The tamper, brick tong and block chisel are available at rental yards.

How to Build a Concrete Wall Figure A: Cross-Section of a Retaining Wall

A cinder block retaining wall is only as straight and solid as the base it’s built on. For a 4-ft. tall wall, excavate a trench deep enough to accommodate 4 to 6 in. of compacted base, 1 in. of leveling sand and half the height of the first course of blocks. Step succeeding courses back 3/4 in., overlap vertical joints at least 4 in. and secure one row to the next with pins. Backfill with crushed rock, except for the top, where you should install a 6-in. “cap” of native soil to help keep surface water from entering the rock-filled trench. Use concrete adhesive to secure the cap blocks.

Every manufacturer and consultant we contacted stressed the absolute necessity of starting with a solid, level and well-compacted base. Failure to do this will result in a weak, wavy wall. Bear in mind: If your wall is higher than 4 ft., most concrete block manufacturers require extra engineering and installation steps not shown here. These steps range from using special reinforcement fabric to installing a series of terraces rather than one tall wall. Most manufacturers provide good printed installation guidelines. If you purchase your concrete retaining wall blocks from a specialty landscape center, there may be an onsite designer or engineer to help you.

• Before getting started, contact local utility companies to mark the location of underground wires and pipes. Telephone and cable TV wires are often buried just beneath the surface.
• In the Midwest, the compactable base material is often referred to as “Class V” (as in the Roman numeral for five). In other regions, the rock may vary and the material may go by a different name. The important quality of the material is its different-sized rock and sand particles that interlock and compact to create a solid base. It’s the same material used beneath road beds and paver patios. Make sure you use the right stuff. It’s NOT the same as the crushed gravel you use for backfill.
• The 16-in. wide x 12-in. deep x 6-in. high blocks we installed weigh 80 lbs. each. A brick tong doesn’t make them lighter, but it does make them less clumsy to handle, easier to position and less likely to crush fingers.
• If your wall borders a sidewalk or deck, you may need a code compliant rail. Contact your local building code department.

Excavate and Level the Base

Excavate and level the area where you’ll be installing the wall. Use a transit or a 4-ft. level taped to a straight 2×4 to establish a common stake height, indicating the top of your sand leveling bed (see Fig. A). Create a flat area at least 4 to 6 in. deep and 24 to 28 in. wide for installing the compactable base material. Provide a clear area of at least 12 in. behind the wall for installing the crushed rock.

Install 4 to 6 in. of base material level to the tops of the stakes, then compact it until it’s about 1 in. below the tops. Rent a hand tamper for small projects, or a gas powered tamper for walls more than 30 ft. long.

Add Sand and Screed it

Provide a flat-as-a-pancake sand base for installing the first course of blocks. With the tops of the stakes as guides, use a long, straight screed board to level the sand. A hand trowel is good for fine-tuning small dips and humps.

Level the First Row

Install the first course of blocks, using a taut string line to establish a straight row. Use a 4-ft. level to level blocks lengthwise and a torpedo level to level the front to back. Once the first row is installed, pack native soil to grade level on both sides of this course to anchor the wall in place. The brick tong makes handling and positioning the 80-lb. blocks easier, faster and safer. Ever thought about a treated lumber retaining wall? Learn more about it here.

Drive in the pins to lock courses to one another and help establish the 3/4-in. backset for each row. Use an extra pin to set the installed pins below the surface of the blocks so they don’t interfere with blocks on the next row. To maintain wall strength, offset the vertical joints of the row you’re installing at least 4 in. from those of the row below.

Cut Blocks with a Chisel

Cut blocks to size by first scoring the top and bottom with a block chisel.

Finish the Cut From the Side

Turn the block on its side and finish the task with a series of solid blows.

Backfill with Gravel

Backfill with crushed gravel. Crushed, rather than smooth, gravel locks together and helps direct backfill pressure downward (rather than outward). The backfill also provides a fast path for water drainage and acts as tree root barrier.

Finish with Special Cap Blocks

Install the cap blocks using two 1/4-in. beads of concrete adhesive to secure them in place. Cap blocks can be positioned with a slight overhang or back set, or set flush with the wall face.

Additional Information

• Figure A: Cross-section of retaining wall

The post How to Build a Concrete Retaining Wall appeared first on Family Handyman.

If your concrete garage floor is suffering from pits, craters or cracks, you can cover up those scars with just a few basic concrete skills. Here is your guide to seal cracks in concrete garage floor. Concrete “resurfacer” is a cement-based coating that forms a smooth, new surface right over the old concrete. The cost of a resurfacer for a two-car garage is typically less than $200. You’ll also need to buy or rent some special tools, so expect your total cost to be about $300.

Cleaning the garage and resurfacing the floor usually takes one day (on the other hand, clearing out your garage so you can work may take weeks!). Spreading the resurfacer smoothly is the trickiest part of the project, so it helps to have some experience with concrete or drywall finishing. Cool weather, with temps in the 60s, also helps. Warmer weather makes resurfacer harden faster, reducing the time you have to finish the surface.

As a first-timer, you might achieve a perfectly smooth, flat finish on your garage floor. Or you might end up with a few rough spots and small ridges. But even if your work is far from flawless, you’ll still make a bad floor look much better. And remember this: If you make some major mistakes, you can add a second coat—this time with the benefit of experience.

Materials needed

• Resurfacer: We used Quikrete Concrete Resurfacer (about $20 for 40 lbs.). Similar products, such as Sakrete Flo-Coat, are available. Buy enough to resurface the whole floor. To estimate the amount you need, check the label and then buy two or three extra containers. Better to return some than to run out before the job’s done.
• Plastic sheeting: Protect walls with a band at least 3 ft. high. We used 6-mil plastic, but lighter stuff will work too.
• Brush and push broom: A stiff brush designed for stripping decks and mounted on a handle (shown) will keep you off your knees ($10). So will a push broom; get a push broom with the stiffest bristles you can find.
• Squeegee: Get a beefy version designed for floors, not a lightweight window-cleaning tool.
• Mixing equipment: A powerful 1/2-in. drill and a mixing attachment are the only way to go. Mixing by hand is too slow.
• Protective gear: Rubber boots and gloves protect your skin against the degreaser and resurfacer (which can burn skin). You’ll also need eye and hearing protection. You’ll need a pressure washer, concrete cleaner (like Quikrete Concrete & Stucco Wash No. 8601-15), a brush, push broom and a floor squeegee. Buy enough concrete resurfacer material (such as Quikrete Concrete Resurfacer; 40-lb. bags) to coat the entire floor. Refer to the coverage specs on the bag to determine how many bags you need.

Everything you’ll need for this project is available at home centers.

Clean the slab and fill deep holes and cracks

Scrub with a concrete degreaser and a stiff brush, then follow up with a pressure washer. Rinse twice to remove all residue.

Find the deep pits

Make a mark 1/4 in. from the tip of a pencil. Use it as a depth gauge to locate pits and craters that need filling, then circle them.

Remove the loose stuff

Chisel away any loose fragments along cracks or craters; there’s no need to bust away concrete that’s firmly attached.

Concrete Floor Patch: Fill cracks, craters, divots and pits

Next, you have to fill the cracks in the concrete. Mix up a stiff batch of resurfacer, using just enough water for a workable consistency. Scrape off the excess so repairs are flush with the surrounding floor.

Create a dam

Glue weather strip to the floor exactly where the garage door rests. This will stop resurfacer from flowing onto the driveway. The cleaner the concrete, the better the resurfacer will stick. Start with a thorough sweeping. If you have oil spots to clean, scrub them with a deck brush and concrete cleaner. Once you’ve removed the stains, apply cleaner to the whole slab with the brush. Then fire up the pressure washer (Photo 1). Start in the back of the garage and work your way to the front, forcing the excess water out the overhead doorway.

Important: If you find that the cleaner doesn’t soak into the concrete but just beads up into droplets on the surface, you have a sealer over the concrete that you’ll need to remove. In that case, apply a stripper first to remove the sealer, then clean.

When the slab is clean, find and mark the deep (1/4 in. or deeper) pits and divots (Photo 2). Look for any pieces of concrete that the sprayer may have loosened. Chip these away (Photo 3) and collect the debris as you go, sweeping it into a dustpan with an old paintbrush. Now’s the time to fill these cracks, divots and pits. Mix some resurfacer to a mashed potato-like consistency and push the mix into the cracks. Smooth it with a cement trowel flush with the surrounding surface (Photo 4).

If you have expansion joints cut into the existing slab, push a weather strip into the joint. This will maintain the joint and give you a convenient time to stop and take a break. Apply and smooth no more than 150 sq. ft. of resurfacer at a time for the best results. You can glue a length of weather strip to the slab to define a stopping point if you don’t have a control joint and then continue from that edge once you’ve smoothed the first section.

For a nice-looking finished edge under the overhead door, we applied a heavy-duty vinyl weather strip (Photo 5) that we picked up at a local home center. Just be sure to dry the slab along the location with a hairdryer so your adhesive will work properly.

Mix and spread the resurfacer

Recruit a helper to mix the resurfacer while you spread it. The material begins to stiffen quickly, so the faster you get it all mixed and applied, the better your results.

Spread it smooth, then let it set

Spread from the middle of the puddle. Push the squeegee forward under moderate pressure to work the resurfacer into the concrete and force it into pores and pits. Then drag it back to eliminate edge ridges and to smooth the coating. Continue spreading until you get even coverage. Aim for a thickness of 1/8 in. When you’ve covered the whole floor, let it cure for 24 hours before you drive on it.

This is the time to recruit a helper. You’ll need one person to mix and another to spread resurfacer. Take two minutes to read the directions before mixing. The key to a smooth, lump-free mix is to let the resurfacer ‘slake,’ that is, sit in the bucket for a few minutes after the initial mixing. Then mix a bit more (Photo 6). It’s also good to have a slat of wood on hand to scrape the sides of the bucket as you mix.

Saturate the concrete with water and then use a broom to push out any puddles from the pitted areas or low spots. The concrete should be damp when you apply the resurfacer, but not wet to the touch. Pour the mix into a puddle on the slab and immediately spread it (Photo 7).

Work quickly and carefully, blending each stroke into the previous one until you get a nice, uniform look. Smooth the resurfacer along the side walls by pulling the squeegee toward you. As you reach the edge of the door weather strip, use your steel trowel to gently blend the resurfacer against the weather strip. You can remove the excess with the trowel and drop it into a bucket.

To apply a nonslip texture, lightly drag a clean push broom in one direction across the still-wet material (allow no more than five minutes of setting time before applying the broom finish).

With the slab finished, let the mix set up. In hot, dry weather, it’s a good idea to mist the hardened surface; keeping it damp longer will allow the resurfacer to fully harden. After several hours, the finish will support foot traffic. If the pits still show, let the material set up and apply a second coat later in the day. But you can stop with one coat if it provides good coverage.

Depending on the weather, wait at least 24 hours before driving on your newly finished slab. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for additional hot-weather misting procedures or extra drying time for cool weather. After a few days of curing, you can apply a concrete sealer if you’d like to protect the slab from oil and other stains.

Erase your mistakes

If you end up with ridges, shallow craters or squeegee marks, you don’t have to live with them forever. Go to a rental store and rent a concrete grinder for about $125 a day. It looks like a floor polisher, but it grinds down the surface, removing about 1/16 in. with each slow pass. Check out guide to concrete grinding.

It’s a dusty job that might take all day, but you’ll get a much smoother, flatter surface—perfect if you want to apply a finish like epoxy paint.

The post How To Fix a Pitted Concrete Floor in Your Garage appeared first on Family Handyman.

What Is the Recipe for Concrete?

Most people say “cement” and “concrete” interchangeably. But they’re not the same thing. Cement is just one of the ingredients in concrete, and if you ask for cement at the lumberyard, you might get a bag of actual Portland cement.

Aside from cement, concrete contains sand and stones. Those stones, or “aggregate,” are a carefully measured mix of various sizes. Small stones fill in the gaps between larger ones, and sand fills in between them. Cement is the glue that holds it all together.

Water Makes Concrete “Work”

Cement is mostly limestone that’s been ground up and superheated. Adding water causes a chemical reaction; microscopic crystals develop, grow and interlock, binding the aggregate together and forming a rock-hard mass.

Too Much Water Makes It Weak

It’s tempting to add extra water to make concrete easier to work with or to soften concrete that has begun to harden. But don’t do it. With too much water, cement crystals develop too far apart, leaving concrete weak and porous.

Don’t Overwork It

To finish the surface, concrete is first “floated” with a float, sometimes called a “mag”. This pushes the aggregate down and pulls fine sand and cement to the surface—just what you need to form a smooth, troweled finish or a rough-broomed finish later. But limit float work to two or three passes. Too much floating leaves a topping of watery cement, and that means a weak, porous surface. Too much troweling causes the same issue.

Simple Safety Facts

Cement is caustic, which means it can cause anything from dry skin to nasty burns that require medical attention. Wear gloves and protect your eyes. Concrete dust is bad for your lungs. So strap on a respirator while mixing or cutting it.

Keep It Wet Longer to Make It Stronger

Concrete will continue to harden until it dries out completely. That’s why some pros use blankets, plastic sheets or spray-on coatings to retain moisture. Since most of the strength gain takes place in the first few days, experts often recommend a “wet cure” of three to seven days. Typically, concrete is considered fully cured after 28 days.

The post The Science Behind Concrete and Why it Matters for Pros appeared first on Family Handyman.

About Concrete Patios

Durable, attractive, long-lasting and easy to keep clean — these are the advantages of a concrete patio. Unlike paving bricks or patio slabs, a poured concrete patio greatly reduces gaps and cracks that can lead to weed growth and ant infestations.

It’s a big job to pour a patio properly and you don’t want to skimp on quality. Follow these guidelines and your concrete patio will give you years of enjoyment.

How Much Will You Save?

You’ll save 40 percent to 50 percent by pouring your patio yourself. (Taking the DIY route also means you can be sure the technical details are done correctly.) You’ll save even more if you mix your own concrete instead of having a ready-mix truck deliver it.

What to Consider

Size, situation, time and budget are the main things to consider when planning a concrete patio. More specifically, think of these items as you plan:

Is the area level? You may need to add compacted fill to the area to level out a sloped site for a patio.

Will you excavate by hand with a shovel, rent a small excavator or hire a pro to do the digging? Although your patio will sit on top of the ground, you should remove sod and top soil before building forms and pouring concrete. The size of your planned patio, the texture of the soil and your level of physical fitness determine whether you do this digging by hand or not.

How thick will your patio slab be? Four inches is the minimum thickness for a concrete patio. You’ll want to make it six to eight inches thick if the patio will support a structure such as a gazebo or hot tub.

Tools

• Shovel
• Wheelbarrow
• Hand saw
• 48-inch level or laser level
• Hammer
• Drill driver
• Trowel
• Broom

Materials

• 2×6 or 2×8 lumber for forms
• 1-1/2-in. x 1-1/2-in. x 18-in. wooden stakes (one for every 36-in. of form length plus one for each corner)
• #10 x 3-1/2-in. deck screws for form assembly
• Bagged concrete mix or Portland cement and sand to hand-mix, or ready-mixed concrete by truck
• Crushed stone
• Concrete reinforcing fibers
• Spray paint
• String and stakes

Equipment

• Portable cement mixer (unless you’re ordering ready-mixed concrete)
• Masonry cut-off saw

The Process

There are several main steps to pouring a concrete patio, including marking and excavating, assembling and leveling forms, mixing and pouring concrete, finishing the concrete and more. Here’s the process in more detail:

Mark your work area: Use spray paint or strings and stakes to mark out your patio. Make this area 18 inches longer and wider than the finished size of the patio you want. You’ll need this room for the forms and the space required for working around them.

Excavate the area: Use a shovel or rented mini-excavator to dig up the sod and top soil in the area of your patio. Aim to go down six to eight inches below the current soil level.

Assemble forms: Join 2×6 or 2×8 lumber to form the outer shape of your patio. Use #10 x 3-1/2-in. deck screws to join the corners, three screws per corner.

Square the form: If opposite sides of your form area are the same length (and they should be), then equalizing diagonal measurements taken corner to corner automatically makes the corners square. Pound one stake into the ground at each corner to hold the form square after it has been adjusted.

Straighten the form: You can never trust lumber to be straight. That’s why you must use strings along the sides of the form as a straight reference line. Place stakes every 36 inches along the outside face of the form to hold the edges of the form straight.

Level the form: Determine the highest corner you want for your patio, raise the top of the form to that level, and then drive a deck screw through the stake and into the form to lock it in position. This is your starting reference point. Use a 48-in. level or a laser level to raise the entire perimeter of the form to a level height, then drive a single deck screw through the stake and into the wood form. Double-check that the entire top edge of all form boards are level with each other.

Saw the stakes: When it comes time to level your concrete you’ll be drawing a long, straight piece of wood across the top edges of the form as you’re finishing the concrete. This is called “screeding” and it’s why you need to saw the stakes flush with the top edges of the form. Do this step now using a handsaw.

Add crushed stone: Shovel in and level crushed stone to make the bottom of the excavation more uniform and to create a space for water drainage. Rake the crushed stone so it’s a consistent depth down from the top edge of the form boards. This depth determines the thickness of concrete of your completed patio.

Add reinforcement: Concrete should be reinforced to minimize patio cracking. Some people use reinforcing steel mesh, but 1/2-in. rebar on a 12-in. x 16-in. grid does a better job. Place the mesh or rebar on the bottom of the form, then lift it up during the pour so the reinforcement is two inches off the bottom.

Formula for determining concrete quantity: (Thickness x width and length of patio in feet) divided by 27 = Concrete volume required in cubic yards.

Pour and finish the concrete: If your patio is tiny you can buy bags of just-add-water concrete mix. Add this to a portable drum-type concrete mixer with a quantity of water to create a uniform blend that’s the consistency of stiff cake batter.

You can save money on large patios by buying Portland cement, sand and crushed stone separately, then mixing all these components yourself in the mixer at a ratio of one part cement, two parts sand and two parts crushed stone.

Ordering ready-mixed concrete delivered by truck is the most costly option, but it makes sense for patios that require more than one cubic yard of concrete. Concrete reinforcing fibers will make your patio more durable and crack resistant. You can buy reinforcing fibers to add to site-mixed concrete, or you can ask for fibers to be added to ready-mixed concrete. I never pour concrete without using this fiber in addition to reinforcing rod.

Fill the forms with concrete, then use a straight piece of wood drawn across the top edges of the form to smooth and level the concrete. Leave the concrete alone until the surface water dries but the concrete itself is still soft, then immediately continue smoothing the surface with a trowel. A special trowel for edges lets you make the concrete look like the edges of a sidewalk.

If you want a rough, high-friction surface, use a broom to texture the concrete before letting it harden. Keep the surface damp with periodic use of a garden hose or wet sheets and blankets.

Remove forms: Let the concrete cure for three days, then remove the deck screws, pull the stakes, remove the lumber than scrape and clean off the concrete residue from the wood, if you want to reuse it. Back fill around the patio with top soil to fill in the space left by the removal of the forms.

Make crack control cuts: Even with reinforcing rods or mesh in place, concrete slabs tend to crack over time. Crack control cuts direct this cracking along a single line, so the results look better. Let the concrete cure for two weeks, then rent a masonry cut-off saw and create cuts 1-1/2-in. to two inches down in a grid of about 10 feet x 10 feet.

Things I Wish I Would Have Known Before Pouring My Concrete Patio

• It’s easy to mix concrete so it’s too wet;
• Concrete cures much quicker during hot weather — too quick sometimes;
• Concrete slabs crack unless you go all out to prevent and control those cracks;
• If something is worth pouring, it’s worth using reinforcing fibers in the concrete.

The post Pouring Concrete Patio: A First Timer’s Guide appeared first on Family Handyman.

Buy PDF & Cut List

Getting Started on Building an In-Ground Fire Pit:

Advice From a Masonry Pro:

Doug Montzka, of Montkza Concrete & Masonry in St. Paul, Minn., has been in the concrete and masonry business for 23 years. He’s seen the popularity of fire pits but it’s possible to create a DIY fire pit. “I started getting requests for brick fire pits a few years ago. It isn’t rocket science, but there are a few tricks to doing the job right. A well-built masonry fire pit is rock solid, safe to use, and will easily last for as long as you own your house.”

Set Aside a Few Days

This won’t be the kind of project you can complete in an afternoon. There are a few time-consuming steps that will spread this project out over a few days. First, you’ll have to pour the footing and give it the time to set up. Then you’ll have to mortar the bricks into place.

Before Digging, Call Utility Companies

Before digging out the space for your in-ground fire pit, call your utility companies (dial 811; for more info, go to call811.com) to check the location of buried utility lines.

Also, check the fire pit code in your area. Most require a fire pit to be 25 ft. away from any structures and overhanging trees. Think about how the prevailing winds blow through your backyard.

Mark Out the Fire Pit

The first step to making your own fire pit is to dig out a dedicated space in your yard for the fire pit base. The following are the fire pit dimensions we used for this project.

• A 3-ft.-diameter in-ground fire pit creates enough room for a good fire, yet keeps everyone close enough to chat (and complies with most codes).
  • Pro tip: To make measuring the pit and pouring the concrete footing easy, we used two cardboard concrete form tubes (purchased from a concrete supply company).
• You could also make your own forms by screwing together 1/8-in. hardboard. For a non-traditional fire, opt for a smokeless fire pit.
• Rip a 4 x 8-ft. sheet into four 8-in.-wide strips.
• Carefully bend and screw two strips together to create a 36-in.-diameter circle, and use the other two to make a 48-in.-diameter circle.
• Set the larger form in position and spray paint around it. Dig a hole about 8 in. deep and 3 in. larger in diameter than the form.

Level the Pit

• Shovel out the soil to a depth of 8 in. for your fire pit base. Don’t disturb the underlying soil.
• Check the bottom of the hole with a level.
• Remove high spots in your in-ground fire pit by scraping off soil rather than digging.
  • Pro tip: That way, you won’t loosen the underlying soil.
• Compact the soil with a hand tamper or a 4×4 post.

Pour a Sturdy Footing for Your Fire Pit Base: Stake the Forms

• The concrete footing will create a stable base for the pit walls and keep the sides of your pit from cracking as the ground moves over time.
• Stake the forms and mix up ten 80-lb. bags of concrete mix according to the manufacturer’s directions.
• If you’re using hardboard forms, stake them so they’re nice and round.
• If the forms aren’t quite level, raise one end and drive a screw through the stake.
• If the forms aren’t completely round, reposition the stakes.

Add the Rebar

• Bend rebar into half circles for this circle fire pit and tie them together with wire to make a ring.
• Fill the forms halfway.
• Press the ring into the concrete for strength, making sure it doesn’t touch the sides of the forms.

Finish the Footing

• Shovel in the remaining concrete until the forms are filled to the top and tap the tubes gently with a sledgehammer until the concrete mix is level.
• Recheck level, hammering the forms down if necessary, and smooth the top of the footer.
• Let the concrete completely set up overnight and then remove the forms.

Dry-Set the Firebrick Liner

• Because regular clay brick can crack at high temperatures, we’re using firebrick (also called “refractory” brick) to line the inside of the easy fire pit walls.
  • Pro tip: Firebrick is a dense brick that’s kilned to withstand high temperatures. It’s larger, thicker and wider than regular brick, and you can find it at most brickyards. Firebrick is more expensive, but it will stand up to nightly fires for years to come.
• You’ll need 25 firebricks for a 3-ft. diameter pit.
• Because firebrick is so dense, it’s tougher to split than regular brick. “Soldiering” the brick (standing it on end) minimizes the amount of splitting and lets you easily accommodate the curve of the pit.
• You’ll only need to split four firebricks (use the technique shown in step 11), which you’ll place across from one another around the pit to create draw holes for oxygen for your fire.
• After you split your firebricks, dry-set them in place on top of the footing.
• Adjust the spacing between bricks so you won’t have to cut the last brick to fit (cutting firebrick isn’t easy).
• Mark the position of every brick on the footing.

Mortar the Firebrick

• Firebrick is mortared with refractory cement, which, unlike regular masonry mortar, can withstand high heat.
• Refractory cement comes premixed in a bucket and has the consistency of peanut butter.
  • Pro tip: A margin trowel makes it easier to scoop cement out of the bucket and butter the bricks. And a tuck pointer is useful for cleaning up the joints.
• Work with four bricks at a time.
  • Pro tip: The secret is to trowel the cement on thin, like you’re spreading peanut butter on toast, and use the tightest joints you can.
• Butter a thin layer of cement on the footer and position your first brick.
• Butter the second brick and butt it against the first.
• Continue around the circle checking level side-to-side and back-to-front as you go.

Create Air Holes

• Leave gaps in the firebrick in four opposite points around the ring and then fill them with half bricks. These gaps are “draw holes” that feed air to the fire.
• Prop up the half bricks until the mortar sets.
• Check for level across the DIY fire pit and the vertical level of the bricks as you go.

Complete the Outside Walls with Face Brick

• We used SW (“severe weathering”) face brick (also called “common” or “building” brick) to line the outside circle fire pit walls. If your climate doesn’t include freeze/thaw cycles, you can use MW (“moderate weathering”) building brick. Home centers and brickyards carry a large variety of brick.
• You’ll need 80 face bricks for a 3-ft.-diameter pit. Face brick with holes (“cored”) is easy to split with a brick hammer. It’s easier to form the curve of the pit walls with half bricks. You’ll lay three courses of face brick and mortar them together with Type N mortar mix (sold in 80-lb. bag at home centers, and you’ll need about five bags).
• Because face brick is smaller than firebrick, you’ll need to make up the size difference as you lay your three courses of face brick. The difference between the height of your firebrick and the total height of three stacked face bricks will determine the width of your mortar beds between courses.
• Dry-set the face brick, marking where each course of face brick has to hit the firebrick to make the third course of face brick level with the firebrick.

Split 80 Bricks in Half

• Cup the brick in your hand, keeping your fingers below the top edge of the brick.
  • Pro tip: Our mason doesn’t use gloves, but we suggest you do!
• Give the brick a solid tap (a very solid tap for firebrick) on the outside edge near the center hole.
• Avoid hitting your hand. Repeat 79 times.

Set the Face Brick

• To keep your mortar joints between courses a reasonable width, lay a 2 to 3-in. thick bed of mortar right on top of the footing.
• Let it set up slightly (give it at least 15 minutes) and smooth out the top.

Work in Sections

• Working on one-third of this easy fire pit at a time, lay 3/8 in. of fresh mortar on each course of face brick into place, leaving a 1/4-in. gap between the firebrick and the face brick.
• Check the level of each course and tap down the bricks as necessary.
• Stagger the joints between courses for strength.

Strike the Joints

• After you finish each section of face brick, use a jointer to smooth (“strike” or “tool”) the joints before the mortar dries too much.
• The mortar is ready to strike if you press your finger into it and the indentation remains.
• Striking gives the wall a uniform, polished look.
• Remember to leave the draft holes open as you mortar each section of face brick and smooth out the finished joints.

Finish Off the Top Lip

• Mortar the brick caps.
• Finish the pit with a matching “row-lock” cap using regular face brick set on edge.
• You’ll need about 40 face bricks for this cap, which will:
  • Help protect the wall joints from rain
  • Keep sparks contained
  • Give you a nice ledge to warm your feet on.
• Work with 10 to 12 bricks at a time.
• Lay a 3/8-in. bed of mortar and lay the bricks on edge, then butter each brick on the outside edge as you go and press it into place.
  • Pro tip: We used brick, but you could use natural stone for a different look.

Fill Gaps

• Add a small amount of mortar to the joints to fill any gaps.
• Check the level frequently and tap gently with a brick hammer to adjust the spacing.
• Leave a 1-in. overhang on the outside to allow for rain to drip off.
• Once all the bricks have been mortared in place, strike the joints for a smooth, finished look with a concave jointer.

Finished DIY Fire Pit

• Give the cement and mortar a week to cure completely before lighting a fire in your pit.
• Pour a few inches of gravel on the pit’s floor for drainage and you’re ready for your first wienie roast.

The post How to Build a Brick Fire Pit appeared first on Family Handyman.

This patio design is not only stylish but also perfect for someone with limited concrete experience. It’s much more forgiving than a big, continuous slab. On a large slab, a mistake in the form or in finishing can lead to depressions and water puddles. And inadequate base prep can lead to cracking. This segmented design makes those problems much less likely. To complete the look, you add decorative rock between the pavers. Are you ready to take it on? If you have help, you can pour this patio in a weekend!

Prep the Site

• Remove any existing sod, giving yourself a little extra room around the edges to make it easier to place the form and screed the concrete.
• Scrape, rake and shovel the patio area to make it as level as possible. Depending on the grade and the finished height of your patio, you may need to add some sand fill.
• Lay out the patio’s footprint with stakes and string. Make sure all the math works out and that the footprint is square.

Build the Forms

• Assemble the form in sections.
• Stake the forms in place using 1-by stakes between the 2x4s. The stakes created a gap to get the width we wanted, and we also used them to level the forms.

Level the Form

• Lift and adjust the form to make it level, then screw it to the stakes. Once you’re satisfied, cut the stakes flush with the top of the form.
  • Pro tip: We left the gaps open between the 2x4s, realizing too late that they’d fill with concrete. This made it difficult to remove the forms after the concrete was set. To avoid that, we recommend covering the gaps with duct tape before pouring. Also, fill in sand up to the bottom of each individual paver space so the concrete doesn’t flow underneath the form, filling the gaps from below.

Set and Tie Rebar

• Lay a rebar grid in each cavity, tying the intersections.
• Set the rebar grids on specially made “chairs” to elevate the rebar into the slabs.

Oil the Forms

• Spray or brush the forms with kerosene, diesel fuel or cooking oil. This makes it easier to remove the forms after the concrete has set.

Fill the Forms

• Fill in each form, starting with the corner closest to the house.
  • Pro tip: The easiest way to do this is to hire a pump truck. The hose is heavy, but not nearly as much work or headache as trying to run a wheelbarrow over the grid. We used fiber-reinforced concrete to ensure these slabs won’t crack.

Ready-Mix vs. You-Mix Concrete

We built forms, ordered ready-mix concrete and poured the entire patio at once. If that’s too daunting, you can build one or two small form sections and pour them individually at a more leisurely pace. If you choose that route, consider buying a portable mixer and selling it when you’re done.

You won’t save money mixing it yourself, though. Using 80-lb. bags of mix, it’ll cost you about $200 per cubic yard. We hired a pump truck for $180 and included fiber reinforcement in the mix, and our total price came to $116 per cubic yard. This project took just over four yards, so ordering ready-mix concrete was a great deal cheaper than mixing it ourselves.

Screed the Concrete

• Have a helper screed each section after it’s filled.
• Our patio is large, and pouring the forms progresses quickly, so a crew of four is best to perform all the tasks before the concrete sets.
  • Pro tip: The person doing the screeding should be limber, as they’ll likely end up crawling around on the form grid a bit no matter how well you’ve planned the process.

‘Float’ the Surface

• After the bleed water has disappeared, float each section with a magnesium float. Floating embeds coarse aggregate particles and smooths the surface without sealing it.
  • Pro tip: Before our concrete set up too much, we measured the post anchors and installed them for the pergola.

Round the Edges

• Once the concrete begins to stiffen, start rounding over the edges of the pavers with a special edging tool. You’ll need to move quickly — there’s a lot of edging to be done!

Trowel the Concrete

• When you’re able to kneel on kneeboards on the concrete and only leave a 1/8-in.- to 1/4-in.-deep indentation, start troweling the pavers. Troweling makes the surface hard, dense and smooth.
  • Pro tip: Put a little “spring” in the trowel to increase that effect and feather out the transition created by the edger.

Remove the Forms

• After the concrete has cured, back the screws out of the leveling stakes and start prying out the forms.They should come out fairly easily.
  • Pro tip: If you need to use a hammer and pry bar, take care not to damage the concrete. If the forms are stubborn, run a reciprocating saw around each paver before pulling the forms.

Fill the Gaps

• Install landscape edging around the patio perimeter.
  • We used Permaloc ProSlide Commer­cial Grade Landscape Edging, which cost about $2 to $5 per linear foot.
• Using a shovel and broom, fill the spaces between the pavers with your choice of gravel or decorative rock.

Once you’ve poured your concrete, it’s time to seal it. Here’s how:

The post How to Build and Pour Your Own Concrete Patio appeared first on Family Handyman.

via Amazon

DeWalt Right-Angle Flex Shaft

$29.99 at Amazon

Sometimes, even the best right-angle drill attachment won’t fit into the tiny nooks and crannies in your project. This DeWalt Right-Angle Flex Shaft attachment has a 12-inch flexible shaft that can bend to fit nearly anywhere. This can also be useful for projects around the house where you might find yourself working with stuck screws in small spaces.

via Amazon

ARES Right-Angle Driver

$38.92 at Amazon

If you need a bit of extra power for your project, the ARES right-angle driver is a perfect choice. It’s designed to generate up to 504 pound-feet of torque and works with 18-volt or 2,000-rpm drills. The quick-release bit chuck makes it easy to switch between bits, and the support handle gives you extra control in the tightest spaces.

Work faster and better with a cordless impact driver. We show the basic techniques and pick our favorite driver models, after testing many available options.

On Sale

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Milescraft Impact-Ready Right-Angle Attachment

19.9910% OFF$17.99 at Amazon

If affordability is your primary concern, you can’t do better than this Milescraft Drive90Plus model. It’s one of the highest-rated right-angle attachments on Amazon, and you can bring one home for less than $20. It’s got a minimum 1-1/2-inch reach and will work with most 1/4-inch hex drivers and bits, so you will likely already have everything you need.

On Sale

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Milwaukee Drill Attachment Kit

83.2032% OFF$56.46 at Amazon

This 2-inch-wide Milwaukee drill attachment kit has a durable all-metal housing and steel gears with ball bearing construction that allow this adapter to handle up to 235 inch-pounds of torque. It costs a bit more than some other attachments, but it has an impressive 4.7 star rating on Amazon.

On Sale

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Jocestyle Aluminium-Head Right Angle Drill Attachment

19.995% OFF$18.99 at Amazon

The Jocestyle aluminum-head right angle drill attachment is not as flashy as some of the others, but it gets the job done. It’s made of aluminum with a heat-treated steel shank for strength and durability and it can reach up to 1,500-rpm max speed.

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DeWalt Right-Angle Impact-Ready Attachment

$24.60 at Amazon

It’s not just your standard drill that may need a right-angle attachment. This DeWalt impact-ready accessory is ranked best-in-class and uses powerful magnets to retain fasteners, drill bits and drivers. It’s also one of the highest-rated and most affordable options on our list.

via Harbor Freight

Warrior Right-Angle Drill Attachment for $20

Shop on Harbor Freight

Among its many potential uses, this no-nonsense drill attachment is Ideal for drilling cable pathways between studs and joists. It has received many glowing online reviews and the price is definitely right!

With the help of these innovative tools, it’s never been easier (or more fun!) to be a DIYer.

via Amazon

DeWalt Right Angle Drill Adapter

$47.77 at Amazon

This DeWalt Right Angle Drill Adapter is listed as Amazon’s Choice, and for good reason. It’s well-reviewed, a great price, and works with just about any drill. Plus, the manufacturer claims that this adapter has 2 times longer life than the competition.

We sifted through thousands of classic tool tips and selected a few that have been most useful on our own projects.

Milescraft Heavy-Duty Right-Angle Drill Attachment

Sometimes you need a bit of extra power or maneuverability that a padded extension handle offers. This Milescraft drill attachment is designed for heavy-duty applications, with its all-metal drive that works with four ball bearings. The extension handle is detachable, so it’s not in the way when you don’t need it.

Feeling extravagant? These are the 21 tools so worth splurging on.

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CIGOTU 105-Degree Multifunction Extension

The main downside of most right-angle drill attachments is that they take up a lot of space in your toolbox when they’re not in use. This CIGOTU 105-Degree Multifuntion Extension isn’t precisely a right-angle, coming in at 105 degrees, but it is perfect for fitting into small areas and doesn’t take up much more space than a socket when you’re not using it.

Shop Now

The post The Best Right Angle Drill Attachments appeared first on Family Handyman.

Peeling epoxy

Too much moisture causes epoxy paint to crack and pop off.

Photo 1: Prepare a test area

Remove 1/32 in. of the top layer of concrete with an angle grinder and a masonry wheel. Let the area “breathe” for 24 hours before starting the test.

Photo 2: Set up the test

Test for moisture with a calcium chloride dish covered by a plastic dome. When the test is done, cut a hole in the dome and lift the dish straight out so you don’t spill the contents. Seal the dish and mail it back to the manufacturer for results.

When epoxy paint on garage floors peels up prematurely, the problem is most likely caused by too much slab moisture. Unfortunately, the widely used plastic sheeting test (taping a sheet of plastic film to the concrete and checking for condensation droplets after 24 hours) isn’t reliable. A better method is to use calcium chloride–based testing kits (about $40 for the three kits you’ll need).

For the most accurate results, conduct the test during the spring when the soil is damp and low humidity is forecast. Dry air draws moisture up through the concrete, so you’ll be getting “worst case” results that time of year. Place two of the test kits at least 5 ft. away from walls, and the third test kit in the middle of the floor. Follow the surface preparation instructions to the letter. That means you’ll have to grind off about 1/32 in. of concrete to remove any surface sealers or hardening agents (Photo 1). Once you’ve ground off the top layer, use the pH test liquid and strips included in the kit to determine the acidity (pH) level of the freshly exposed concrete. The pH level should be 6.5 to 7. If yours isn’t, check with the paint manufacturer to see if its paint will stick.

If the pH level checks out, leave the test sections open to the garage air for 24 hours before starting the test. Place the calcium chloride dish in the test areas and apply the sealing dome (Photo 2). After the chemical absorbs moisture for 60 to 72 hours, cut openings in the domes and remove and seal the dishes. Then mail them off to the testing lab for analysis (included in the kit price).

The maximum amount of water vapor penetration is 3 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. If your results show more than that amount, don’t even consider applying epoxy or any other paint-type coating to your floor. Instead, live with your old boring concrete or consider a snap-together tile floor.

However, if your tests hover around the 3-lb. mark, your results are borderline. Consider calling in a professional testing lab to conduct a more rigid (and accurate) test. Find one online or in the yellow pages under “Testing Laboratories.”

For moisture tests, search online for “calcium chloride moisture tests.”

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration. [project-tools]

Required Materials for this Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list. [project-materials]

The post Epoxy Garage Flooring Tips appeared first on Family Handyman.

It’s normal for asphalt driveways to sink a bit over time. But when your driveway repair has sunk to the point where it’s 4 or 5 in. lower than your garage floor, it’s time to fix it. If you don’t, water will pool in the depression, seep into the soil below, and eventually destroy the driveway.

Asphalt companies charge about $1,000 to dig out the old portion and install a new apron. Concrete contractors charge even more. But you can rebuild your asphalt driveway apron yourself. The entire job takes a full day and it’s not much fun. However, the materials and tools only cost about $250, so the savings are worth it. Learn how to pour a concrete apron.

You’ll need a diamond blade for your circular saw, a tamper, a pry bar and a short square-blade shovel. Plus, you’ll need enough cold patch material to fill in the trench you make (sold at home centers). To figure out how many bags you’ll need, refer to the depth and width tables on the bag. Finally, you’ll need mineral spirits and rags for cleanup.

Cold patch cures by solvent evaporation, and it takes about 30 days to reach a full cure. The best time to do the project is during an extended warm, dry spell. You can do it in spring or fall, but cold weather and rain will greatly extend the cure time.

This driveway repair is a messy job, and no matter how careful you are, you’re going to get tar on your clothes and shoes. You can’t wash off the tar with soap and water. So wear old clothes and shoes that you can toss into the trash when you’re done. If you have to go into the house during the project, leave your shoes outside so you don’t track tar into the house.

Cut Out the Sunken Asphalt

Slap a diamond blade into your circular saw and set it to its maximum cutting depth. Then, snap a chalk line out from the garage floor to a maximum distance of 24 in. Wear an N95 respirator and safety glasses and cut out the old asphalt.

Put in the Bottom Layer

Pour in a small amount of cold patch material and level it with a square-blade shovel. Tamp down a test section and measure the depth. The bottom layer should only be 1/2 in. thick when compacted. Add or remove cold patch material and then tamp down the entire starter row.

Build Additional Layers

Add and compact the cold patch in 1-in. layers until you reach the garage floor. Then overfill with an additional 1/2 in. of material and tamp to get a smooth surface.

Drive Over It to Compact

Cut a piece of plywood slightly wider than the trench. Lay it over the patch material and cover it with 2x4s. Then drive over it several times with your vehicle until the patch is level with the garage floor.

Pavers Are Another Option

Another approach to fixing a sunken driveway is to make an apron from paving brick. It’s attractive, you can do it yourself, and you can easily reset the pavers if the soil settles again. Follow these steps:

1. Snap a chalk line parallel to the garage door. Make sure it’s out far enough to include all the settled asphalt. Lay out a row of your paving bricks, starting against the garage floor slab to position the chalk line at a full brick.
2. Cut through the asphalt (it’s usually 2 to 3 in. thick) along the chalk line. Be sure to wear hearing and eye protection.
3. Remove the asphalt and dig a 12-in. deep trench. Angle the wall of the trench slightly under the remaining asphalt. Rent a plate compactor and run it along the trench at least four times to compact the soil. Line the sides and bottom of the trench with landscape fabric. It’s available from landscape suppliers.
4. Spread a 2-in. layer of Class V or other compactable gravel, dampen it and run the compactor over it four times. Continue to spread and compact the gravel in 2-in. layers until it’s 3 in. below the existing driveway.
5. Install paver edging along grass edges and spread a 1-in. layer of coarse sand. Don’t compact it.
   Set your pavers, compact them with the plate compactor and fill the joints with sand. Be sure to use a joint stabilizing sealer to keep the sand from washing out.

The post How To Fix a Sinking Driveway appeared first on Family Handyman.

How to Pour a Concrete Apron For a Garage

It’s a story that’s all too familiar: A hole gets dug, a foundation gets built and there’s a hasty backfill before the asphalt driveway gets installed. Eventually, the asphalt settles, the apron collapses and the new homeowner gets angry (and rightly so). That’s when Glenn Anderson and his crew at Above Quality Inc. show up to rip out the droopy asphalt and install a concrete apron that will last for years.

Glenn has installed scores of aprons in his career. There were 32 on his most recent townhouse project alone. He knows that the best way to keep customers happy and steer clear of callbacks is to reduce movement and avoid cracking. We’ll show you how he gets it done.

Cut Back the Garage Floor

In addition to cutting out the offending asphalt, Glen makes sure the new apron is able to rest on the foundation. Too often the garage slab is poured all the way to the edge of the foundation. In these cases, a few inches of the slab need to be cut back. It’s a messy job but necessary to keep the apron in place.

Finish the Edges With a Grinder

The large cut-off saw will only get so close to the garage bucks. An old grinder that you don’t mind using on concrete works well to finish off the last several inches.

Tie the Concrete Apron to the Garage Slab With Rebar

Here’s where Glenn’s process gets a little, well, “controversial”. He ties the apron to the garage slab with rebar to prevent it from separating, which could create a large and uneven gap. It’s a given that a bunch of you masons out there are going to insist that you should never join exterior concrete to an interior slab. But before you get your rubber slush boots in a bunch, listen to this:

Glenn agrees that the exterior slab will move a little. So to make sure that the rebar creates a hinge point rather than busting apart the existing slab, he installs 3/8-in. rebar instead of 1/2-in. Thicker rebar is less likely to bend, which makes it more likely to bust apart the slab. He also installs the rebar more than halfway down from the top of the slab and that the rebar is drilled as deep into the slab as his bit will go. And he never ties aprons or pads to an interior slab if they cannot rest on the foundation or if the slab is less than 3-in. thick. Install the rebar 4-6-ft. apart and at least 6-in. away from any expansion joints cut into the apron.

Install the Foam Expansion Joint

In this application, an expansion joint is not going to prevent cracking in the traditional sense. Instead, it creates a gap between the apron and the garage slab so if the outside of the apron does move up a bit, the top edges of slap and apron don’t crack from being forced into one another.

Compact Earth and Add Structural Rebar

Check to make sure the guys who installed the driveway used enough base material. If they didn’t, you’ll have to add more. Don’t forget to make this possibility a stipulation in your bid. Always tamp the soil even though at this point it has probably settled as much as it’s going to. The process of pulling up the asphalt will loosen the top couple inches of soil and that’s enough to cause problems. Glenn’s crew uses a hand tamper to do the job. Add a couple more sticks of rebar to the length of the apron.

Protect Nearby Surfaces

Take the extra time and protect the surrounding surfaces, especially when working with dyed concrete. For a few bucks and a few minutes you can avoid a whole lot of headaches. This crew covers the garage doors and walls with plastic and protects the existing slab and asphalt edges with duct tape.

Gorilla Tape Works Great

Glenn has found that Gorilla Tape works best because it’s tough and adheres better to a dirty surface than other tapes. Also, don’t forget to warn the homeowners and neighbors to keep an eye on their kids and pets. Little feet/paws can leave a lasting impression even if the concrete is almost completely dry.

Add Extra for Minimum Load Charge

Every concrete supplier has a minimum load charge, but many increase that minimum when delivering dyed concrete, mainly because it’s labor intensive to clean out the dye before the next load. So check with the supplier before agreeing to a price with your customer.

Cut, Then Seal

Glenn waits to seal the apron until after the expansion joints are cut. That way he can saturate down in the crevice where water can accumulate. If he can’t get to the apron right away after it sets up, he seals it immediately after pouring and reseals the in the crevice after the joints are cut. He informs his customers that his warranty is null and void if they throw down salts or chemicals in the winter during the first two years. Glenn applies high gloss sealer when working with dyed concrete and flat for normal pads and slabs. Cut the joints 4-6-ft. apart and always cut down 25% the thickness of the pour.

Meet the Expert

Glenn Anderson is the owner/operator of Above Quality in Prior Lake, MN. He’s been finishing slabs, laying block and stacking stone for 25 years.

We’d Love to Hear From You

Do you have a jobsite or tool tip that makes your work-life easier, safer, or just more fun?  Why not share it with your construction comrades? Plus, you can show off your professional prowess to your family and friends.

Click the image below to send us your Pro Tips! Please include an image if you can. We will contact you if we run your submission on the site.

The post How To Pour a Perfect Concrete Apron appeared first on Family Handyman.

Concrete countertops are made with a mortar mix, usually consisting of one part cement and three parts sand. However, there are variables in both prepackaged mixes and mixes made from scratch by pros. Ingredients such as accelerators, superplasticizers, pigments and decorative aggregates will affect both the performance and final look of a concrete countertop.

Whatever mix is used, the countertop must be polished after it’s been installed and has had time to cure. The grinding and polishing process removes the rough finish and adds an attractive sheen. Concrete is porous, so the countertops must also be sealed with a food-safe sealer.

If you’re leaning towards concrete for your own kitchen countertop material, here are a few concrete countertop pros and cons to consider.

Concrete Countertop Pros

Durability

There’s no doubt concrete is rock solid and extremely durable; it can easily handle the wear and tear of everyday use in the kitchen or bathroom. In fact, concrete countertops will last you a lifetime if properly sealed and maintained. And unlike some other materials, it’s heat-resistant, “Concrete is pretty tough. Once sealed, it handles heat well, so you can put a hot pan right on it without worrying,” says Coates.

Customization

Concrete countertops are extremely customizable. “The shapes and forms you can build are virtually limitless, and they can be built in a shop or cast in place, which is a huge plus,” says Coates. “You can shape them to fit any kitchen layout and choose different colors, textures, or finishes.” You can also customize the edge profile and sheen to fit your taste. Other special finishes include marbling and veining, dish-draining ridges, and decorative add-ins, such as stones, colored glass or metal shavings.

Style

Of course, the main reason you might choose concrete countertops is because you like the look. “They’ve got that cool, industrial vibe, which is great if you’re going for a modern or minimalistic look,” says Coates. Pair concrete countertops with other rustic finishes like wood grain shelving and stainless steel accents. Or, with the color choices, you can use concrete to mimic other more expensive countertops like soapstone and marble.

Eco-Friendly

Concrete countertops are eco-friendly because of their lifetime longevity, which reduces waste. Concrete also requires less energy during production. Other man-made materials, like quartz or porcelain, rely on large machinery to add heat and pressure for bonding, while concrete cures and hardens on its own. To decrease your carbon footprint even more, Coates recommends using locally sourced materials and incorporating recycled mix-ins like glass.

Concrete Countertop Cons

Maintenance

Although durable, concrete countertops do require consistent upkeep. You’ll need to regularly reapply sealer and wax to protect the surface of your counters and avoid stains. Spills and messes should be cleaned up right away.

“You need to reseal it every one to three years with food-grade wax (think beeswax) to keep it from absorbing stains or bacteria,” says Coates. “I recommend using a mild, pH-neutral cleaner for day-to-day cleaning. Avoid harsh, acidic cleaners because they can wear down the sealer.”

Price

Concrete countertops are handcrafted, which requires a lot of labor, so they are not cheap. According to The Concrete Network, the average cost per square foot is $65 to $135. (For comparison, marble countertops cost about $110 to $250 per square foot.)

Because concrete is so customizable, many factors can affect the price. “Adding things like custom shapes, built-in sinks, or unique finishes can bump the price up,” says Coates. “Installation is also a big factor. It’s pretty labor-intensive to pour and finish concrete properly, so paying a pro to do it right can drive the cost higher.”

Hairline Cracking

Concrete is structurally sound, so if installed properly, you won’t encounter any big cracks, but hairline cracks are possible. Slight discoloration and tiny chips also naturally occur and add to the patina of your countertops as they age. For some, imperfections are part of the appeal and charm of concrete countertops. However, it’s something to keep in mind if you want countertops that always look new.

Time

Concrete countertops might not be the best choice if you’re short on time. To design, cast and cure, you should plan for a turnaround time of at least a few weeks. Curing itself can take from three to seven days. And keep in mind that the more humid the climate where you live, the longer the cure time.

Are Concrete Countertops Right for Me?

Overall, concrete countertops are a good choice for those who prioritize customization and don’t mind some natural patina as the material ages. Keep price in mind, though, because custom finishes and professional installation can drive the cost up substantially. Concrete is an excellent option for an experienced DIYer. Forming and installing the countertops yourself will eliminate labor costs, but it’s not a project for beginners. DIY concrete countertops require skill, special tools, and lots of time.

About the Expert

Matthew Coates is a Seattle architect and president of Coates Design. Coates has used concrete countertops in several of his designs over the years, and personally installed DIY concrete countertops in two of his own homes. With more than 20 years of experience, he is recognized for his innovative and forward-thinking approach to high-performance architecture and sustainable design.

Sources

Concrete Countertop Mix, Concrete Network, 2020

The post Take a Look: Concrete Countertops Pros and Cons appeared first on Family Handyman.

Finishing concrete

Close-up: Darby

A darby flattens the wet concrete.

Close up: Edging tool

An edging tool gives the concrete a round edge.

Close-up: Groover

A groover makes joints in the concrete to control cracking.

Close-up: Magnesium concrete hand float

A float compacts the concrete surface, giving it a smooth look. Putting a smooth, durable finish on concrete is a skill you can only master with the proper set of tools and practice. We’ll show you the tools and how to use them for each step of the concrete finishing process. And equally important, we’ll help you determine when the concrete is ready for the next finishing step.

But you really can’t practice these techniques except on real concrete. So it’s smart to start with a small project like this garbage can pad. When you get the hang of it, you can move up to a larger slab. But keep in mind that finishing larger slabs (more than about 100 sq. ft.) is trickier because the concrete may set up too fast.

In this article, we’ll show you how to level the concrete in the forms, round over the edges and make a progressively smoother finish. But we won’t show how to build forms or fill them with concrete.

Each step in the process requires a different tool. You can make the screed (Photo 1) and darby (Photo 2) from scraps of wood. The rest you’ll have to rent or buy. You’ll need a magnesium float ($15 to $25), an edger ($5 to $20), a grooving tool ($10 to $30) and a steel trowel ($8 to $40). Pros buy expensive top-quality tools that will stand up to the rigors of daily use, but less expensive versions are available at home centers and hardware stores and will work fine for occasional home use.

Concrete is a blend of Portland cement, sand, aggregate (gravel) and water that harden when mixed. While there are additives that can slow down or speed up the process, and special bagged mixes that set fast, in general, the speed of the process largely depends on the temperature and humidity.

Hot, dry weather accelerates the hardening process, sometimes so much that it’s nearly impossible to complete all the finishing steps in time. Work while your project is in shade if possible. On cool days, you may spend a lot of time waiting for the concrete to reach the next stage. That’s why we can’t give you exact waiting times. But we’ll show you how to tell when the concrete is ready for each finishing step.

Video: How to Pour a Concrete Slab

Screed and darby the concrete right away

Screed the concrete

Push or pull the screed board across the forms with a back-and-forth sawing motion. Shove concrete into low spots in front of the screed board. Repeat to remove excess concrete.

Form and Pour a Concrete Slab

Darby the concrete

Sweep the darby across the concrete in overlapping arcs to flatten the surface, push down lumps and fill voids. Lift the leading edge slightly but keep the darby level with the surface. Make two passes.

How to Pour a Concrete Slab Successfully: 31 Tips

Wait for the surface water to disappear

Water will appear on the surface. Wait until this “bleed” water and sheen disappear entirely before edging, jointing or floating the concrete. Screeding levels the concrete with the top of the forms and begins the process of forcing the larger aggregate below the surface. Use any 2×4 that overlaps the forms by at least 6 in., but make sure it’s straight (Photo 1).

Follow screeding immediately with the darby (Photo 2). Your goal is to level out marks and fill small holes left by screeding. In the process, you’ll force larger aggregate down, leaving a slurry of cement and sand to fill the surface.

The darby should be large enough to reach a little more than halfway across the slab. Make a darby by screwing a handle (we cut a 2×4 with a jigsaw to make a handle) onto a straight piece of 1×4. Longer darbies may require two handles for better control. If you can’t reach the entire slab from the edges with a darby, rent a bull float and handle to use instead. Two passes over the surface with the darby are enough. Overworking the concrete will draw too much cement and fine sand to the top and create a weak surface.

Drilling Concrete and Installing Fasteners

Edge, groove and float the slab when the sheen is gone

Edge the concrete

Work the edging tool back and forth, using the edge of the form as a guide. Lift the leading edge slightly. Use long strokes, working the aggregate back until you have smooth, round edges.

Create grooves in the concrete

Set a straight board along predetermined marks for control joints. Run the groover back and forth against the straightedge until the bed of the tool is riding on the concrete surface. After smoothing the slab with the darby, water will “bleed” out of the concrete and sit on the surface (Photo 3). This is temporary. It’ll soon reabsorb into the concrete. However, it’s critical to wait until it disappears.

Working the concrete before the surface “bleed” water disappears will weaken the surface of the slab when it dries. When all traces of the water are gone and the concrete starts to harden, you can resume finishing activities. Test by pressing your gloved thumb onto the surface near the perimeter. The concrete is ready when pressing hard only leaves a 1/4-in. deep impression.

Start by running the edger around the perimeter to round and compact the corner (Photo 4). Sometimes it’s a little tough at first as you push larger aggregate back into the concrete and round over the edge. If the edger is leaving a path deeper than about 1/8 in., wait for the concrete to set a little longer and apply less downward pressure.

Next divide the slab into equal parts with a straightedge and groover (Photo 5). Sidewalks and small slabs need grooves about every 4 ft. Add grooves every 10 or 12 ft. on driveways and garage slabs. Dividing slabs with grooves looks nice, but the real reason is to control cracking. Drying and soil movement cause concrete to crack. The groove creates a weakened spot for the crack to form where it won’t be seen. To be effective, the groove must be at least one-fourth the depth of the slab.

Float and trowel the surface to smooth and compact it

Float the concrete

Lift the leading edge slightly while you sweep the magnesium concrete hand float over the concrete in large arcs to compact the surface. Blend in the marks left by the edges of the edger and groover.

How to Remove and Replace a Small Concrete Entry Pad

Trowel the surface

Smooth the surface with a steel trowel after it’s partially hardened. Hold the trowel almost flat and swing it in large overlapping arcs while applying pressure. Float the concrete when you’re done grooving and edging (Photo 6). Floating removes the marks left by edging and brings the surface one step closer to a final finish. You may have to bear down on the float if the concrete is starting to harden. You’ll be surprised that with enough scrubbing you’ll be able to bring a slurry to the surface of even a fairly hard slab. If you’re happy with the look of your floated slab, you don’t need to do any more finishing. Repeat the edging and grooving steps after floating and after troweling to refine the groove and edges. For a decorative border effect similar to what’s shown in the inset to Photo 4, run the edger around each section of slab after a final broom finish.

In Photo 7, we show how to put an even, smooth finish on the slab with a steel trowel. Troweling is one of the trickier steps in concrete finishing. You’ll have to practice to develop a feel for it. For a really smooth finish, repeat the troweling step two or three times, letting the concrete harden a bit between each pass. At first, hold the trowel almost flat, elevating the leading edge just enough to avoid gouging the surface. On each successive pass, lift the leading edge of the trowel a little more. If you want a rougher, non-slip surface, you can skip this step and do a broom finish (Photo 8). Also, if you order air-entrained concrete delivered, don’t trowel the surface.

How to Properly Mix Concrete

Broom finish for better footing

Create a non-slip surface

Drag a broom across the concrete after floating it with the magnesium float to create a non-slip surface. Adjust the downward pressure to create the desired amount of texture. Dragging a broom across partially hardened concrete leaves a rough texture that gives better traction in slippery conditions (Photo 8). Special concrete brooms are available, but a regular push broom will work too.

Remember to wash off the bristles as soon as you finish brooming concrete. As with all the other finishing steps, the key to a successful broom finish is to wait until the concrete surface is just right. If concrete starts to pile up in front of the bristles as you drag the broom across, resmooth the broomed area with a float or trowel and then wait a little longer before trying again.

When you’re done finishing the concrete, cover it with plastic or keep it moist by sprinkling it several times a day for about a week. This slows the curing process and results in a stronger, more durable slab.

CAUTION!

It might be hard to believe that concrete can be dangerous. But the strong alkalinity of cement can cause chemical burns just like a strong acid. By the time you realize you’re being burned, you may already have skin damage. That’s why it’s essential to prevent prolonged skin exposure to wet concrete. And why you should be extra careful to keep wet concrete from getting in your eyes. Wear rubber gloves, a long-sleeve shirt, long pants and safety glasses. Wear rubber boots if you’ll be wading in concrete. Rinse wet concrete from your skin immediately and remove clothes that have become saturated with concrete.

The post How to Finish Concrete appeared first on Family Handyman.

Types of Flower Bed Edging

There are many kinds of edging available—plastic, wood, metal and concrete. Many people like concrete because it never needs to be replaced. If you’re thinking of installing concrete flower bed edging, you have two options. You can pour the edging, which requires trenching, making a form, staking it in place, then pouring and smoothing concrete. This looks great and you can make the edging any width you want. But, it is a lot of work.

Here are the best ways to prevent weeds on flower beds.

An easier and less-expensive alternative is to use precast concrete edging stones, available in a range of styles and sizes. You can get these concrete edgers at a big box store, sometimes for less than a dollar apiece. There are often several colors to choose from, primarily gray and tan, sometimes brick red. Don’t have a truck? Some big box stores will rent one to you.

These are our best tips for a low-maintenance flower bed.

Popular Concrete Flower Bed Edging

One of the most common precast concrete edgers sold is the scalloped edger, which is available in straight or curved designs. Frankly, the design is somewhat dated looking, but you can rectify that by installing the edging upside down so the scalloped portion is below ground. There are other styles as well, including interlocking blocks and faux brick.

How to Install Concrete Flower Bed Edging

Precast concrete flower bed edging stones are easy to install. Lay out the shape of the bed with a rope or garden hose, then use a flat-blade spade to make a trench. Cut into the ground along one side, then face the opposite direction and slice along the other side. Learn how to dig a trench for flower bed edging. Excavate the soil, line the trench with an inch of sand, then install the edging stones one by one. Make sure they’re level, tamping down with a rubber mallet if needed, then backfill.

Lights enhance the look of flower beds. These are some of our favorites.

These are three gardening tools every homeowner needs.

The post How to Install Concrete Flower Bed Edging appeared first on Family Handyman.

How to Pour a Concrete Slab: The Basics

The bulk of the work for a new slab is in the excavation and form building. If you have to level a sloped site or bring in a lot of fill, hire an excavator for a day to help prepare the site. Then figure on spending a day building the forms and another pouring the slab.

How Much to Pour a Concrete Slab: Estimate a Concrete Order

Here’s a brief rundown of what you need to know about concrete and concrete prices. We’ll use a 10 x 10 ft. slab as an example:

Calculate the volume you need in cubic yards. Multiply the length (10 ft.) by the width (10 ft.) by the depth (.35 ft., or 4 in.) and divide it by 27 (the number of cubic feet in a cubic yard). You get 1.3 cu. yds. Then add 10 percent to allow for spillage and slab depth variations to help determine the concrete cost per yard.

Don’t overspend on your next masonry job. Here’s how to estimate a concrete order:

How to Pour a Concrete Slab: Prep the Site

Before you get started, contact your local building department to see whether a permit is required and how close to the lot lines you can build. In most cases, you’ll measure from the lot line to position the slab parallel to it. Then drive four stakes to roughly indicate the corners of the new slab. With the approximate size and location marked, use a line level and string or builder’s level to see how much the ground slopes. Flattening a sloped site means moving tons of soil. You can build up the low side, or dig the high side into the slope and add a low retaining wall to hold back the soil.

Get more expert tips for pouring a concrete slab yourself in this video:

Choose Boards for the Form

Start by choosing straight form boards. For a 5-in.-thick slab with thickened edges, which is perfect for most garages and sheds, 2×12 boards work best. For a driveway or other slab without thickened edges, use 2x6s. If you can’t get long enough boards, splice them together by nailing a 4-ft. 2×12 cleat over the joint. Sight down the boards to make sure they’re aligned and straight before nailing on the cleat.

Secure the First Form Board

Drive a stake into the ground at each corner of the slab area. Cut one side of the form to length and nail it to a corner stake. Level the board and nail it to the second corner stake. Stretch a mason’s line just above the top edge of the board, align the board with the string and brace it with pairs of 2x4s every 2 ft. To absorb the shock and make nailing easier, hold a sledgehammer behind the stakes and form boards as you nail.

Finish the Form

Cut a second board to the width of the slab. Nail one end to the braced form and use the calculated length of the diagonal to set the form at 90 degrees. Drive a stake at the end. Level, straighten and brace the second form board. Add the third side.

Note: Cut the two side form boards 3 in. longer than the length of the slab. Then cut the end boards to the exact width of the slab. You’ll nail the end boards between the side boards to create the correct size form. Use 16d duplex (double-headed) nails to connect the form boards and attach the bracing. Nail through the stakes into the forms.

Calculate How Much Fill You’ll Need

The key to crack-resistant concrete is a firm base that drains well. Unless you have sandy soil, this means adding a layer of gravel.

With the forms in place, you can estimate how much fill you need. To calculate the amount of fill needed, stretch a string across the top of the forms and measure down to the ground. Do this in three or four spots and average the results. Subtract the thickness of your slab. Then use this depth to calculate the cubic yards of fill needed. Be sure to ask what your supplier recommends for fill under slabs. Crushed concrete compacts and drains well.

For smaller concrete projects, follow these tips for mixing concrete to the perfect consistency.

Fill and Level the Base

Spread the fill in layers no more than 3 in. thick and tamp each layer with a rented plate compactor. Leave a 12-in.-deep by 12-in.-wide trench around the perimeter for a thickened edge. If you’re building a heated structure on the slab, cover the ground inside the concrete forms with 6-mil polyethylene sheeting. Otherwise you can leave it uncovered.

Reinforce with Rebar

Concrete needs reinforcement for added strength and crack resistance. It’s well worth the small additional cost and labor to install 1/2-in. rebar (steel reinforcing bar). You’ll find rebar at home centers and at suppliers of concrete and masonry products (in 20-ft. lengths). You’ll also need a bundle of tie wires and a tie-wire twisting tool to connect the rebar.

Lay Out the Rebar Grid

Cut and bend pieces of rebar to form the perimeter reinforcing. Splice the pieces together by overlapping them at least 6 in. and wrapping tie wire around the overlap. Wire the perimeter rebar to rebar stakes for support. Then cut and lay out pieces in a 4-ft.-on-center grid pattern. Wire the intersections together. You’ll pull the grid up into the center of the concrete as you pour the slab.

Dampen the Base to Lengthen Finish Time

To extend your finish time on hot, sunny days, spray bone-dry ground with water to keep the base from sucking the water out of the concrete. A water spray also slows down curing, which makes for a stronger slab. If there’s no hose bib nearby, you can use the water and hose that are onboard the truck. If you don’t have water on site, also use the truck hose to fill a couple buckets of water for cleaning your tools after the truck leaves.

Pouring Day Prep

Have at least two contractor-grade wheelbarrows on hand and three or four strong helpers. Plan the route the truck will take. For large slabs, it’s best if the truck can back up to the concrete forms. Avoid hot, windy days if possible. This kind of weather accelerates the hardening process—a slab can turn hard before you have time to trowel a nice smooth finish. If the forecast calls for rain, reschedule the concrete delivery to a dry day. Rain will ruin the surface.

Safety Gear

• Wet concrete on skin can cause everything from mild redness to third-degree, permanently disfiguring chemical burns. You and your helpers should take these steps:
• Wear eye protection. Sandy concrete splashes can wreak havoc with your eyes. Wear long pants and long sleeves to protect your skin.
• Wear tall rubber boots if you have to wade in wet concrete.
• Wear gloves (rubber gloves are the safest bet).

Plus: Safety gear every DIYer should own.

Drier Mix is Better

Adding water to the concrete makes it flow down the chute and fill your forms more easily, but it also weakens the final slab. A drier mix is more difficult to pack into your form, especially around the edges, but makes for a stronger, more crack-resistant slab.

Pour in Sections

Pour the concrete in small sections, spreading the concrete by moving the chute back and forth and by having the driver pull forward as you go. Once the truck has reached the end of a section, spread the concrete out evenly, and a touch higher than the form, with a concrete placer/rake. Don’t fill the whole form or giant sections because the mound of extra concrete you’ll drag back with the screed board will get too heavy.

Concrete Pouring Communication

Here are some basic hand signals to help you communicate with the truck driver. Make sure you can see the driver’s face in the side-view mirror—if you can’t see him, he can’t see you.

Initial Leveling

Drag a straight 2×4 (screed board) across the top of the concrete forms to level the concrete. Make multiple passes if needed to create a flat, evenly filled area. Have a helper add or remove concrete in front of the screed as you pull it. Check out the detailed steps for pouring a perfect concrete slab here.

Screed Board Basics

Pull back the excess concrete with the screed board. As you pull, slide the screed board back and forth to help you prevent voids in the surface. Have a mucker (that’s what they’re really called) pull the excess back and fill in low spots during the screeding process. You want enough concrete to fill all voids, but not so much that it’s difficult to pull the board. About 1/2 to 1 in. deep in front of the screed board is about right. It’s better to make several passes with the screed board, moving a little concrete each time, than to try to pull a lot of concrete at once.

Screeding Tip

A slight crown (bow) in the screed board is not only OK; it’s preferred. Just make sure the crown side is facing up. That will create a slight hump down the middle of the slab, so water will drain off. If the crown faces down, you’ll end up creating a trough in the slab where water can pool.

Bull Float to Smooth the Surface

Start bull-floating the concrete as soon as possible after screeding. The goal is to remove marks left by screeding and fill in low spots to create a flat, level surface. Bull-floating also forces larger aggregate below the surface. Keep the leading edge of the float just slightly above the surface by raising or lowering the float handle. If the float angle is too steep, you’ll plow the wet concrete and create low spots. Three or four passes with the bull float is usually sufficient. Too much floating can weaken the surface by drawing up too much water and cement.

Bull-Float Tip

Larger aggregate (chunks of gravel) near the surface may cause spalling (chipping). Our expert pushes the larger rocks deeper into the mix. He does this by making small stabbing motions with the float on the first return pass. Start floating the slab immediately after the pour is complete

Float in Two Directions When Possible

In addition to pushing the aggregate down under the surface, a bull float helps level the slab, so start floating right after you screed, while the concrete is still wet enough to shape.

Whenever possible, run the bull float perpendicular to the direction you pulled the concrete with the screed board (this slab was too long to do that). That will help to smooth out the ridges, troughs and valleys created by screeding. Our expert likes to float in both directions when he can.

Need to remove a concrete slab? Here’s what you need to know.

Round the Edges

Round the edges of the slab with an edging tool after any surface water disappears. Work the edger until the edge is solid and smooth. The concrete should be firm before you start edging. If the edger is leaving behind large wet grooves, wait awhile before you continue. Longer strokes will result in straighter lines.

Hand Float as Needed

Run a hand float over the ridges left behind by the edger. A hand float is also a good tool for dragging small amounts of material or moisture (cream) into any voids or dry spots near the edge.

Add Grooves

Grooving creates a weakened spot in the concrete that allows the inevitable shrinkage cracking to take place at the groove rather than at some random spot. Cut in control joints to create individual sections no larger than 8 x 8 ft. for a 3-1/2-in.-thick slab, and no larger than 10 x 10 ft. for a 5-1/2-in.-thick slab.

Want a change for your old concrete patio? Cover it with pavers.

Nonslip Surface Ridges

A broom finish creates a nonslip surface for wet conditions. The harder the concrete, the less rough the broom will leave the surface. Try to achieve a surface rough enough for traction but not so rough that it hurts to walk on barefoot. If the broom starts to bounce as you pull, lower the angle of the handle. If possible, broom perpendicular to the direction that the slab is most visible. Wavy, crooked broom lines are less noticeable that way.

Plus: Learn how to stain concrete for a beautiful finish.

Post-Pour Prep

The slab can be walked on and the forms pulled in 24 hours. Wait at least 10 days to drive on it, and avoid spreading any ice melting chemicals for the first two years. Ask your neighbors to keep an eye on their pets before you pour, and use caution tape around the area to warn the pesky neighbor kids.

Plus: Learn how to remove stains from concrete.

Dampen to Cure Slowly

Keep concrete moist after it’s poured so it cures slowly and develops maximum strength. The easiest way to ensure proper curing is to spray the finished concrete with curing compound. Curing compound is available at home centers. Follow the instructions on the label. Use a regular garden sprayer to apply the compound. You can lay plastic over the concrete instead, although this can lead to discoloration of the surface.

Plus: How to fix cracks in concrete.

How to Pour Concrete Steps

Cutting away the damaged concrete and pouring a new concrete cap on the step can often repair badly broken concrete steps. The fix will be durable and you avoid the high expense of a complete tear-out.

Leftover Concrete Project

Add a touch of charm to your front yard by creating oversized concrete house numbers. Watch the video to see how this project comes together; then follow the simple steps included to make some for your front yard.

Build a Table with a Concrete Top

Here’s another idea for using leftover concrete: Create a polished concrete table with a solid wood base, with inlays of glass, leaves, tile or other materials. This project is simple enough for even beginning woodworkers to tackle.

The post How to Pour a Concrete Slab Successfully: 31 Tips appeared first on Family Handyman.

The layout of your deck sleepers will depend on the layout of your decking. If you want a standard decking design — all the deck boards running one direction — all you need are rows of parallel sleepers. If you want a more complicated decking pattern, like the one in this project, you’ll need doubled sleepers to support any boards that run perpendicular to the others. We also installed sleepers to support the steps we later added to the concrete stoop.

For a standard decking design:

• From the top center of the deck, use a pencil and tape measure to mark the layout of the first sleeper on the concrete. Start a 1/2 inch from the house’s foundation or concrete edge.
• Continue measuring and marking from the first sleeper. Use standard joist spacing of 16 inches on center (o.c.) until reaching the end of the patio.
• Repeat this process on the left and right sides of the patio, 1 foot from the patio edge.
• Next, measure and mark 1-1/2 inches to the right of the 16 o.c. marks.
• Use a level or straightedge to draw a line connecting these three new parallel marks.
• Each sleeper edge will be positioned next to these lines.

Cut and install spacers (optional)

You could lay your sleepers directly on the concrete, but we bought a 1/2-in. thick PVC trim board and cut spacer blocks from it. While optional, spacers let you run sleepers parallel to the house, so decking can run perpendicular to the house (if that’s what you prefer). Otherwise, sleepers parallel to the house will block water runoff.

Spacers also allow sleepers to dry, preventing rot. “As long as the sleepers are following the pitch of the slab, you don’t need spacers. But if you want that as extra insurance it doesn’t hurt,” Collinsgru says.

• Measure, mark and rip the PVC board into 3 1/2-in. strips using a table saw or circular saw. This is the width of the sleepers.
• Mark and cut each strip into 2-in. sections with a miter saw. These will be your spacers.

Position the sleepers

The sleepers don’t have to be level; they can follow the slope of your patio. But they do need to form a flat plane. If your patio is in good shape, you’ll get a flat plane automatically. If your patio has ridges and sunken areas, you’ll spend lots of time fussing with shims.

Our project’s biggest time factor was the patio surface’s unevenness. All those ridges and sunken spots meant hours of tedious shimming under the sleepers to form a flat surface for the decking (see Photo 3).

• Lay a straight board across the patio in a few spots.
• Look for the highest hump in the patio and plan to position your first sleeper there.
• If using spacers, space them every 18 inches along the sleeper edge line marked on the patio.
• Lay the sleeper board onto the spacers or directly onto concrete if not using spacers.
• Work outward from the high spot, adding spacers and sleepers.
• Check for flatness along each sleeper and across them using a 4-ft. level.
• Add plastic shims to raise low spots.

Predrill for concrete screws

All surfaces must be predrilled before securing with concrete screws.

• Position the 3/16-in. masonry drill bit over the center of a sleeper and spacer.
• Drill through sleepers, spacers and into the concrete with a hammer drill.
• Pull the bit completely out of the hole once or twice while drilling each hole to clear the dust. As you drill, dust compresses around the drill bit. That slows you down, strains your drill and overheats the bit.
• Drill the holes 1/4- to 1/2-inch deeper than the screw will reach. Extra-depth provides a space for dust and grit, so screws are easier to drive.

Pro-tip: Have extra drill bits on hand. As a bit wears, it doesn’t just drill more slowly; it also bores a slightly smaller hole and screws become harder to drive. We replaced each bit after about 40 holes.

Screw down sleepers

With holes predrilled, secure sleepers to the concrete.

• Use a drill with a driver bit to drive in concrete screws. Overhang the sleepers along one edge of the patio and trim them to exact length later.
• Screws should penetrate the concrete by at least one inch, so 3-1/4-in. screws are perfect. In low spots, where we had to stack up shims, we switched to 3-3/4-in. screws.

Set sleepers in plane

When all the sleepers are screwed down, take a few minutes to double-check for flatness.

• Set a 4-ft. level on each sleeper, both across it and along it.
• If you find spots that are 1/16-inch or more out-of-plane, back out the screw and add or remove shims.

Install flashing on sleepers

Before decking, we covered the sleepers with flashing tape. Without it, water soaks the tops of the sleepers and the decking prevents the wood from drying.

“Flashing tape is very beneficial,” Collinsgru says. “It’s a cheap insurance to ensure water is not sitting trapped on your sleepers causing rot.”

• Lay flashing tape along the top of a sleeper board.
• Apply firm pressure to adhere the tape to the surface.
• Use scissors or a utility knife to cut it to length.
• Repeat this process across remaining sleepers.

Plan decking layout

To avoid a half board or less at one end of the deck, check the layout first before securing. If necessary, cut end boards on each side of the deck floor for a more uniform look.

If using dried pressure treated wood, space decking boards 1/8-inch apart. If the wood is not dried, butt the boards tightly against each other, as they will shrink when dry. For composite boards, follow the manufacturer’s spacing recommendations.

• Lay deck boards in place across the sleepers.
• Make adjustments or cut end boards as necessary with a circular or miter saw.

Install decking boards

Installing deck boards over sleepers is just like installing them over standard deck framing. “Make sure you are using fasteners that are not too long,” Collinsgru says. “You don’t want them to hit the concrete.”

• Use deck screws to fasten deck boards to the sleepers with a drill and driver bit.
• Secure each board with two screws at each sleeper. “Always use screws, because nails back up over time,” Ricalde says.

Install a fascia board

To cover the ends of the sleepers, we used a deck “fascia” board made from 1/2-inch-thick PVC. We cut the fascia into strips and screwed them to the sleepers.

• Measure the space between the bottom of the decking and the concrete.
• Transfer this measurement to a 1/2-in. PVC board.
• Rip the board to width using a table saw or circular saw.
• Fasten the fascia board to the sleepers using deck screws.

FAQs

What’s the difference between decking and wood?

Composite decking lasts longer and requires less maintenance than wood decking.

Should I use composite decking over my concrete patio?

If your budget can cover the added cost of composite decking, it can be an excellent choice over wood. “Composite boards are nice to use, but they’re expensive,” Ricalde says.

About the Experts

• Paul Ricalde has over thirty years of experience in the construction industry. He also provides in-depth home improvement videos on his YouTube channel, Paul’s Toolbox with over 360,000 subscribers.

• Sean Collinsgru is the owner of Premier Outdoor Living, an outdoor living space design-build firm in Southern New Jersey. Mr. Collinsgru is a Deckorators Certified Pro-elite, and specializes in unique decks, patios and landscaping.

The post How To Build a Deck Over a Concrete Patio appeared first on Family Handyman.

Brick Walkway Overview

You don’t need heavy equipment and a week of work to lay an attractive and durable walkway. We designed this path, one of our favorite garden path ideas, with bricks for simplicity and ease of construction. It’s made from old street pavers and granite cobbles set on a sand bed. But you can substitute just about any pavers or types of stones that are readily available and fit your landscape. The stone-setting techniques will even accommodate stones of varying thicknesses. You can build this path in about two weekends using a shovel, a wheelbarrow and a few inexpensive hand tools.

We’ll walk you through all the path-building details, from breaking ground to breaking the cobbles to fit tight spots. Usually, the main stumbling block is making the path smooth and flat. To solve that problem, we’ll show you a simple leveling technique using ordinary plastic landscape edging. With this technique, you can lay a top-notch path, even if you’re a novice.

Garden Path and Bench

We integrated a seating area into our pathway. Also, keep in mind that we designed this path for foot traffic and other light use. Don’t try to drive on it. Because the path is set only on sand, it won’t stay as flat and smooth as a traditional paver walk set on a compacted gravel bed. It’s ideal for narrower secondary walks in a garden or backyard, where slight imperfections and undulations add to its character. And if an edge stone gets loose from a wheelbarrow bouncing over it, you can reset it in minutes. Expect to pull an occasional weed growing up in the joints. Or if you prefer an English cottage look, encourage moss or other ground covers to grow in the joints.

How to Install Brick Pavers

Path Details and Materials

The path is set on several inches of sand base and bordered by hidden landscape edging with the tube cut off. To achieve the aged, timeless look, you’ll have to track down old street pavers. If you’re lucky, you may be able to salvage material from a local project. Otherwise look for older materials at a landscape supplier or an architectural salvage store. Expect to pay a dollar or more apiece for old pavers. The size varies but it usually takes 4.5 to cover a square foot. The granite cobblestone isn’t antique; the stones were run through a rock tumbler to make them look worn. We paid a premium for these. Figure on three cobbles per linear foot of the path. Use ordinary washed concrete sand for the setting bed. Figure on 1 cu. yd. per 80 sq. ft. of the path. Before you move ahead, get to know about concrete alternatives.

Have the pavers, cobbles and sand delivered. Use a “contractor’s grade” landscape edging for the border. Buy it from a landscape supplier in 20-ft. strips that are stored flat. (If you gently bend each in half, you can wrestle them into a sedan with the windows open.) They usually come with stakes, but buy a few extra packs to hold the edging down better. Don’t buy the edging that’s coiled up in a box; it’s difficult to uncoil and set smoothly.

You’ll need a couple of special tools to do first-class work: a hand tamper and a deadblow hammer or rubber mallet. You can get these at a home center. You’ll also need a 3-in. mason’s chisel and a 3-lb. hammer to split the pavers. Then grab your yard shovels and wheelbarrow and go to work. Learn some other amazing things you can do with your hammer here. The following steps will walk you through how to install brick pavers yourself.

Start by Laying Out the Path

The first step in how to install brick pavers is to plan the path layout. You can use a garden hose to help you lay out your path. But the photo above shows another technique. Define the sitting area first, dot the key starting end and center points, then connect the dots with a smooth line. Stakes work well to mark a curve, then simply connect the stakes with paint. Don’t worry about making mistakes with the paint; your next mowing will erase them. Gradual curves work best; curves with a radius tighter than 5 ft. result in unsightly wide gaps between the pavers.

Figure B: Measure the Path Width

Plan your path width to the full brick, then add a few inches to the width of your excavation for wiggle room for the slightly wider spacing needed on a curve. Make your path anywhere from 2 to 3 ft. wide. Anything wider will look out of scale in a garden setting.

Roll Up Your Sleeves and Dig Out the Path!

When you’re digging through sod, it’s always easiest to drive the shovel through the grass and push it into the excavation. When you’re on a slope, use gravity in your favor. Start at the bottom and back your way up the hill. Use the blade of a round-nose shovel as a rough depth gauge. Stepping it almost all the way in is about a 7-in. depth. Roughly dig out the entire path, then shave one of the sides back to the paint line with an edging spade held vertically. Finally, shave the bottom flat with either shovel. You’ll be amazed at how much dirt will come out of that narrow little path. If possible, find a place for it onsite by building a berm or adding soil around the house to improve drainage. Otherwise, roughly calculate the volume of soil you have to remove and rent a roll-off container for soil disposal.

Install Edging

The top of the plastic landscape edging will be the finished height of your path. Set it a little higher than the surrounding lawn or garden so water will drain off the path. Set the top of the tube flush where the path meets a patio or driveway, along the vertical cut edge. Splice sections by cutting away 7 in. of the top tube, inserting a splice tube, then overlapping the sections. The heavy-grade plastic edging will form a smooth, flat surface, without telegraphing the minor dips or bumps in your lawn. Most edging has a little lip on the bottom to keep it from creeping up. Set this to the inside of the path.

Spike the Edging to the Sod

Hold the top of the tube about an inch above the sod and drive spikes every 5 ft. through the edging into the side of the excavation.

Place the Other Side of the Path

With one side spiked in place, notch a 32-in. 1×6 screed board to the desired path width and use it as a guide to trim and edge the second side of the excavation. Set this edging side about 1/2 in. higher or lower to encourage drainage from the path. At the 4-ft. wide seating area, allow a 1-in. height difference across the entire width.

Add Sand

Now add sand to a level about 3 in. below the top of the tube and compact it firmly. Although a motorized plate compactor works best, a hand tamper works fine for a small, informal path like this. The sand should be slightly damp when you tamp it to help it pack. Sprinkle it with water if it’s dry.

Screed

To flatten it, place the ears of the screed board on the edging and pull a ridge of sand down the path, filling in any depressions as you go. Smooth the sand 4 in. below the top of the tube. Work from the top of the slope downhill.

Trim the Tube

Whether you remove the edging tube is purely a matter of aesthetics. If you don’t mind the appearance of the tube, leave it on. To trim the edging, cut the tube off the top of the plastic edging with a sharp utility knife. Keep the cut at or slightly below the soil level to keep it out of sight.

Seating Area

Figure out the seating area dimensions by roughly laying out the pattern on your driveway. Then set the sand base in the same manner as the path, by placing edging on two sides to serve as screed guides. (Use a longer screed board.) Because you’ll be setting a bench on it, make the surface relatively level. Only allow a 1-in. height difference from one side to the other. Because our project was on a slope, we had to hold the edging 2 in. above the sod on one side. Then after laying the pavers, we added soil to build that edge up. Lay the pavers in staggered rows (a running bond pattern) that wraps around the sides. Start at the outside and work your way around to the middle. It’ll take a bit of fiddling to get the pavers to fit. You’ll have to space some pavers up to 1/4 in. apart and cut a few as well. The informal design allows for looser spacing. Sand will fill the gaps.

Set the Pavers with Staggered Joints

Laying the pavers will move quickly, especially if you have a helper feeding them to you. Start where you want the best fit, usually where the path meets a patio, walk or driveway. Set one side of the cobbles first and follow along with the pavers, staggering each row by half a paver. Set each one in the sand with a few whacks of a deadblow hammer. As you work your way through a curve, the stagger will change because of the wider radius at the outside of the curve. If the joints from row to row come within 1 in., simply insert a half paver to increase the separation. The pavers height will set in pretty uniformly.

Adjust the Sand to Fit the Cobbles

Remove or add sand as needed to accommodate the uneven thickness of the granite cobbles and to keep the top of the path flat.

Mark Cuts in Place

Measure the cuts by holding the paver in place and marking one edge. Use a square to extend the mark completely around the paver.

Cut the Paver

The best way to cut a paver is to split it, but it’s a little tricky because pavers are extremely hard. The resulting ragged edge is in keeping with the worn and tumbled look. Work on a soft surface like the lawn or a pile of sand. Strike the paver sharply on all sides with a 3″ mason’s chisel and a 3-lb. hammer, turning it from the top to the bottom, then side to side. Hold the chisel perpendicular to the face of the paver. Don’t try to split off anything smaller than about 1-1/2 in. It just won’t break cleanly. Finally, save the cutoff pieces. Chances are you can work them in somewhere.

Adjust Spacing

Hide large gaps up to 1-1/2 in. by shifting adjacent pavers up to 1/4 in. apart. Avoid using paver pieces less than about 1-1/2 in. long.

Fill the Sides

Fill in along the side of the path with topsoil and tamp firmly with your foot.

Work Sand Into the Gaps

The last step is to fill the joints with sand. Sweep the sand into the joints, leaving a thin layer on top. Then let it dry and sweep it in again, working the broom back and forth until the joints are full. Save some sand to sweep into the joints after the first rain. Your path will need little or no maintenance; in fact, it will just continue to look better as it ages.

Garden Bed Edging

Add a garden edging with extra cobbles to create flower beds and blend the path and garden into the yard. Leave the cobble tops slightly above the ground level to create a nice edge for easy lawn mowing.

Cut Trench

Cut a clean 5 x 5-in. trench with an edging spade. Then add a few inches of sand.

Place Cobblestone

Push each cobblestone into the sand, leaving the top about 1/2 in. above the bed. Set it with a whack of a deadblow hammer. That’s it! Now you’ve completed one of our favorite garden ideas with bricks in your own landscape.

Check out another affordable garden path idea, too.

The post How to Build a Brick Walkway in the Garden appeared first on Family Handyman.

How to Order Concrete

Working with concrete is messy, hard work. Before you tackle a concrete pour, it’s best to be as prepared as you possibly can be. Here we’ll explain how to order concrete and estimate the cost of concrete. We’ll use a 10 x 10 ft. slab as an example.

First, check out this video where we show you how to figure out the amount of concrete you need to order for your project:

How to Calculate the Cost of a Concrete Pour

Amount. Calculate the volume of concrete you need in cubic yards. The formula for cubic yards is this: Multiply the length (10 ft.) by the width (10 ft.) by the depth (.35 ft., or 4 in.) and divide it by 27 (the number of cubic feet in a cubic yard). You get 1.3 cu. yds. Then add 10 percent to allow for spillage and slab depth variations to help determine the concrete cost per yard.

Strength. Call a local ready-mix company, tell the supplier what the concrete is for, and ask about the best mix (proportions of cement, gravel and sand). For a shed, the supplier will probably suggest a mix with a capacity of about 4,000 psi (pounds per square inch). If you live in a region with freeze/thaw cycles in winter, ask for 5 percent air entrainment to help the concrete withstand freeze/thaw damage.

How Much Does a Yard of Concrete Cost?

The cost of concrete varies depending on several factors. Cost per cubic yard can range as high as $200 per cubic yard, but concrete slab costs will vary by region and market. Also, there can be fees per load for delivery from a concrete truck for concrete cost. There could be other fees for such things as Saturday concrete truck delivery and small loads. Ask about these fees so you know the total bill before the concrete truck arrives.

How Long Will It Take To Unload Concrete?

Ask about the normal concrete truck unload time (usually 7 to 10 minutes per yard) and if there is a fee for overtime. If the concrete truck can’t reach the site, make sure you have two or three people with wheelbarrows ready to go.

Concrete Forms and Pouring

Before you have your concrete ordered and delivered, learn the best method of how to form and pour a concrete slab. The best thing you can do to make a concrete pour go smoothly is to have your worksite fully prepped. As soon as the concrete is delivered, you’re on the clock. Make sure everything is ready to go before you place your order.

The post How to Estimate a Concrete Order appeared first on Family Handyman.

Cutting kerfs is the most effective way to divide the patio into sections with different colors. Using tape isn’t an option because the stain will bleed underneath it and make a mess. If the concrete already has expansion joints, you can incorporate them into your design to avoid cutting kerfs.

When you cut kerfs, start by snapping a chalk line where you want to cut. The cuts need to be perfectly straight; crooked cuts will be obvious once you apply the stain. So, use a wide board as a saw guide and weigh it down with buckets of water.

Install a diamond masonry blade in a circular saw and set it to a depth of 1/4 inch to do the actual cutting. The cuts don’t need to be deep — just enough to separate colors. Have a helper spray a water mist on the blade during the cut to contain the dust.

• Pro tip: Don’t use a cheap abrasive blade — you can’t spray it with water, and you’ll end up with dust all over your siding and windows.

You won’t be able to get the saw blade right next to the house, so finish off the kerfs with a masonry chisel and a hammer or a grinder with a diamond blade.

Clean Up, Rinse and Plan the Color Scheme

As with any other staining concrete project, surface preparation is critical. Any stains, such as rust, will show through in the finished project. To clean your patio:

Scrub the concrete with a stiff broom to remove dirt. Then, rinse the entire patio with water. Now, clean the entire surface with a heavy-duty cleaner, working in 4 x 4-foot sections at a time, then rinse the concrete with water until you don’t see any more soapy bubbles. For tough rust stains, use a stain remover and rinse it off with water. For grease or oil stains, use a product that’s designed to remove those stains. Blast dirt and debris out of the kerfs with water.

Here are a few more tips for cleaning your concrete patio:

• This project will proceed much faster and easier if you stain your whole patio a single color. All you have to do is wet the concrete, apply the stain and back roll with a 3/8-in. nap roller to get even coverage. That’s it—there’s no need to block off sections or switch sprayers.
• If you want a pattern with different colors, start by deciding on a color scheme. Anywhere you want to switch from one color to another, such as for a border or for the checkerboard pattern shown here, you’ll need a kerf to give the colors a crisp separation.

Prep for Staining

Now that the concrete is clean, make sure your shoes are, too, before you walk on the patio again. Because the surrounding ground is wet from all the soap and water, I always change into a pair of clean, dry shoes that I wear only when I’m walking on the patio.

Before cracking open the stain, shield the lower portion of the house and any nearby landscaping materials against drifting spray. Tape plastic film along the siding. You don’t necessarily have to protect plants and grass if you don’t want to because any stain that gets on them will hardly be noticeable. I like to do it anyway, and I use burlap instead of plastic to allow the vegetation to breathe.

If dirt remains on the patio after you’ve cleaned it, brush the concrete lightly with a broom to prevent the dirt from pushing into the surface.

Apply the Base Coat

If you’re painting your entire patio a single color, the base coat is the only coat you’ll need to apply, so any color is okay. However, if your project is similar to ours, your plans might include more colors. If so, you’ll be spraying them over the base coat, so in this case, it’s best to choose a light color.

Wet down the concrete, pour the stain into a garden sprayer, and spray enough to cover the entire surface. To keep the distribution uniform, move the sprayer wand in a continuous circular motion as you go.

When you’re done, back-roll the entire patio with a 3/8-in. nap roller to distribute the stain evenly and pick up any that doesn’t soak in.

Add a Second Color

Create a marbleized look by spraying on a second color while the first color is still wet. To do this effectively, work in small sections (4 x 6 feet or so), starting near the house and working outward. Plan the application so you don’t box yourself into a corner. Don’t worry about getting even coverage — you want the colors to mix together, so there’s no need to back-roll.

Here’s the procedure in a nutshell:

1. Spray a section of the concrete with water, getting it completely wet but leaving no standing water.
2. Have a helper hold shields in the kerfs to prevent spray from staining adjacent sections. We used fluorescent light lenses (available at home centers), but you could also use cardboard. Have four or five shields on hand, so you don’t have to use one that’s dripping wet with stain and watch it drip stain into places you don’t want it.
3. Spray the base coat in a circular pattern. Before it dries, mist more water over the section and spray the second color. The first and second colors will intermix, producing the marbleized effect.
4. Use the water to “push” the color all the way to the edges or onto bare spots. If the water pools in a low spot or starts to run onto an adjacent section, dab it up with a cloth.

When switching to a new stain color, be sure the shields are dry, or use new shields to prevent colors from dripping onto other patio sections. Don’t worry if a leaf or debris blows onto the wet stain. After the stain dries, remove the debris and touch up the stain.

Blend the Colors with Water

Finish creating the marbleized look by blending the first and second colors together with water. Use the water stream to push the stain to bare spots and to produce swirls in the stain. There’s no “right” way to do this. In fact, everyone will do it a little differently, so this is where you can exercise your creativity.

Add More Colors

Add another color, or two more if you like, to create a more complex pattern. To do this, you apply the base coat as before, then spray the colors at the same time and intermix them with water. You’ll need a separate sprayer for each color, but they don’t necessarily have to be garden sprayers. Handheld plant sprayer bottles will work for the colors. Fill the sprayers over tarps on the grass — you don’t want spills to stain the concrete.

• Caution: Concrete staining isn’t a job to do in direct sunlight because the stain will dry too fast. If the patio isn’t shaded, wait for a cloudy day. You should also wait for a windless day because winds will make the spray drift.

Touch Up with a Cloth

After the surface is dry, look for bare spots. Touch them up by spraying the stain from a hand-held spray bottle onto a clean cloth, then dabbing the stain onto the spots. Dab the surrounding area so the stain blends naturally.

Let the stain dry for 24 hours. If the color isn’t as vibrant as you want or the coverage is spotty, go back and add another coat of stain. Wet the concrete and apply the stain using the same steps as before. We added a second coat to the corner squares of our patio to give them a deeper, richer color.

Seal the Deal

Your freshly stained patio will look vibrant right after the stain dries, but it won’t stay that way for long unless you seal the concrete. For this, I use any good-quality, water-based polyurethane or acrylic concrete sealer — as far as I can tell, acrylic and polyurethane are equally durable.

Give the stain a full day to dry, then apply the sealer. Choose a day or time of day when the patio is shaded (don’t apply the sealer in direct sunlight). Start by cutting in with sealer along the patio edges with a 3-in. brush. The milky white sealer turns clear as it’s applied. Roll sealer on the rest of the patio with a 3/8-in. nap roller. Let the sealer dry for two hours, then apply a second coat. Roll the second coat perpendicular to the first coat.

The sealer will dry in a couple of hours, but just to be safe, wait overnight before walking on the patio.

FAQs

What types of stains are available for concrete?

There are generally two types of concrete stains: water-based and acid-based. You can also purchase acetone-based dyes.

• Water-based stains, like the type used in this project, consist of fine particles that settle into the pores to give the concrete color. They are easy to apply and clean up and have a wide color selection.
• Acid-based stains react with concrete to permanently change its color. They are slightly more troublesome to apply, and color selection is limited.
• Acetone-based dyes come in liquid and powder form. They work like water-based stains, but the pigment particles are smaller and produce more vibrant colors. Dyes break down in UV radiation and are generally suitable only for indoor surfaces.

What are the benefits of staining a concrete patio?

Here are some reasons why you might want to consider staining your patio:

• The process doesn’t require much skill, and materials are inexpensive.
• You get quick results.
• A stained and sealed patio will withstand the weather better than an unsealed one and may very well last longer.
• Staining can help mask imperfections in the concrete, although it won’t hide them completely.
• Vibrant colors add a touch of class to your outdoor space.

The post Renew Your Concrete Patio: How to Stain Concrete appeared first on Family Handyman.

Wet concrete on skin can cause everything from mild redness to third-degree, permanently disfiguring chemical burns. You and your helpers should take these steps:

• Wear eye protection. Sandy concrete splashes can wreak havoc with your eyes.
• Wear long pants and long sleeves to protect your skin.
• Wear tall rubber boots if you have to wade in wet concrete.
• Wear gloves (rubber gloves are the safest bet).
• If your clothes get saturated with wet cement, remove them, thoroughly rinse your skin and change into clean clothes before going back to work.

Prepare the Site

Contact your local building department to see whether a building permit is required and how close to the lot lines you can build. In most cases, you’ll measure from the lot line to position the slab parallel to it.

Start to prepare the site for concrete by driving four stakes to roughly indicate the corners of the new slab and use a line level and string or builder’s level to see how much the ground slopes. Flattening a sloped site means moving tons of soil. You can build up the low side or dig the high side into the slope and add a low retaining wall to hold back the soil.

• Pro tip: Your concrete slab will last longer, with less cracking and movement, if it’s built on solid, well-drained soil. If you have sandy soil, you’re in luck. Just scrape off the sod and topsoil and add gravel fill if needed. If you have clay or loam soil, you should remove enough to allow a 6- to 8-in. layer of compacted gravel under the new concrete.

If you have to remove more than a few inches of dirt, consider renting a skid steer or hiring an excavator. An excavator can also help you get rid of excess soil.

• Note: Before you do any digging, call 811 or visit call811.com to arrange to have your local utilities locate and mark buried pipes and wires.

Set and Level One Side

• Cut a 2×12 to length (or splice it with a cleat) for one side of the concrete forms and nail it to a corner stake.
• Level the 2×12 and nail it to the second corner stake.
  • Start by choosing straight form boards. For a five-inch-thick slab with thickened edges, which is perfect for most garages and sheds, 2×12 boards work best. For a driveway or other slab without thickened edges, use 2x6s.
  • If you can’t get long enough boards, splice them together by nailing a four-foot 2×12 cleat over the joint. Sight down the boards to make sure they’re aligned and straight before nailing on the cleat.
  • Cut the two side form boards three inches longer than the length of the slab. Then cut the end boards to the exact width of the slab. You’ll nail the end boards between the side boards to create the correct size form.
  • Use 16d duplex (double-headed) nails to connect the form boards and attach the bracing. Nail through the stakes into the forms.

Stake and Brace the Side Form

• Stretch a mason’s line just above the top edge of the 2×12.
• Align the 2×12 with the string and brace it with pairs of 2x4s spaced every two feet.
• To absorb the shock and make nailing easier, hold a sledgehammer behind stakes and form boards as you nail.
  • Brace the forms to ensure straight sides. A freshly poured concrete slab can push form boards outward, leaving your slab with a curved edge that’s almost impossible to fix. The best way to avoid this is with extra strong bracing. Place 2×4 stakes and 2×4 kickers every two feet along the form boards for support. Kickers slant down into the ground and keep the top of the stakes from bending outward.

Square, Level and Stake the Other Sides

• Cut a second 2×12 to the width of the slab.
• Nail one end to the braced form and use the calculated length of the diagonal to set the form at 90 degrees.
• Drive a stake at the end.
• Level, straighten and brace the second form board.
• Add the third side.
  • Pro tip: Leveling the forms is easier if you leave one end of the form board slightly high when you nail it to the stake. Then adjust the height by tapping the stake on the high end with a maul until the board is perfectly level.

Fill and Level

• Spread and tamp three-inch layers of granular fill to within five inches of the top of the forms. This will help concrete forming.
• Stretch a string across the top of the forms and measure down to the ground. Do this in three or four spots and average the results.
• Subtract the thickness of your slab. Then use this depth to calculate the cubic yards of fill needed.
• Slope the fill down along the edges to create a thickened edge of concrete.

Pack the Fill

• Pack the fill solidly with a plate compactor.
• Leave a 12-inch-deep by 12-inch-wide trench around the perimeter for the thickened edge.
  • If you’re building a heated structure on the slab, cover the ground inside the concrete forms with 6-mm polyethylene sheeting. Otherwise you can leave it uncovered.

Tie in the Rebar to Strengthen the Slab

• Cover the fill with a layer of 6-mm plastic sheeting.
• Tie two bands of 1/2-inch steel reinforcing rods (rebar) to stakes set about four inches from the perimeter of the forms.
• Use a metal-cutting blade or disc in a reciprocating saw, circular saw or grinder to cut the rebar. Cut and bend pieces of rebar to form the perimeter reinforcing.
• Splice the pieces together by overlapping them at least six inches and wrapping tie wire around the overlap.
• Wire the perimeter rebar to rebar stakes for support.

Partition the Slab

• Lay a grid of rebar spaced four feet apart over the plastic and connect the intersections with tie wire.
• Divide the concrete slab down the middle with a 2×4 nailed to 1×3 stakes.
• Align the top edge with a taut string.
  • If you’ve never poured a large slab or if the weather is hot and dry, which makes concrete harden quickly, divide this slab down the middle and fill the halves on different days to reduce the amount of concrete you’ll have to finish at one time. Remove the divider before pouring the second half.
• Mark the position of the door openings on the concrete forms. Then mark the location of the 1/2-inch anchor bolts on the forms. Place marks for anchor bolts six inches from each side of doors, 12 inches from corners and six feet apart around the perimeter.

Prepare for the Concrete Truck

• To estimate the concrete order, multiply the length by the width by the depth (in feet) to arrive at the number of cubic feet. Don’t forget to account for the trenched perimeter.
• Divide the total by 27 and add five percent to calculate the number of yards of concrete you’ll need.
  • Our slab required seven yards.
• Call the ready mix company at least a day in advance and explain your project.
  • Most dispatchers are quite helpful and can recommend the best mix. For a large slab like ours that may have occasional vehicle traffic, we ordered a 3,500-lb. mix with five percent air entrainment. The air entrainment traps microscopic bubbles that help concrete withstand freezing temperatures.
• Triple-check your concrete forms to make sure they’re square, level, straight and well braced.
• Have at least two contractor-grade wheelbarrows on hand and three or four strong helpers.
• Plan the route the truck will take.
  • For large slabs, it’s best if the truck can back up to the concrete forms.
  • Avoid hot, windy days if possible. This kind of weather accelerates the hardening process — a slab can turn hard before you have time to trowel a nice smooth finish.
  • If the forecast calls for rain, reschedule the concrete delivery to a dry day. Rain will ruin the surface.

Pour and Level the Concrete

• Drag a straight 2×4 (screed board) across the top of the concrete forms to level and begin to finish the concrete surface.
• Make multiple passes if needed to create a flat, evenly filled area.
• Have a helper add or remove concrete in front of the screed as you pull it.

Flatten with a Bull Float

• Push a bull float across the screeded concrete, keeping the leading edge slightly elevated.
• When you reach the far side, lift the handle enough to slightly elevate the edge closest to you and pull back to the starting point.
• Move over and repeat, overlapping the previously floated surface by about one-third.
  • Pro tip: Three or four passes with the bull float is usually sufficient. Too much floating is a common concrete pouring mistake that can weaken the surface by drawing up too much water and cement.
    • After you smooth the slab with the bull float, water will “bleed” out of the concrete and sit on the surface. Wait for the water to disappear and for the slab to harden slightly before you resume finishing.

Round Off Slab Edges

• Round the edges of the slab with an edging tool after any surface water disappears.
• Work the edger until the edge is solid and smooth.
  • If the edger sinks in and leaves a track that’s more than 1/8-inch deep, wait for the slab to harden slightly before proceeding.

Set the Anchor Bolts

• Press 1/2-inch anchor bolts into the concrete before it hardens.
• Place bolts one foot from corners and every six feet.
• Place bolts six inches from the sides of door openings.
• Leave about 2-1/2 inch of the bolts exposed.

Cut Control Joints

• Form control joints to minimize random concrete cracks by running a groover along the edge of a straight 2×4.
• Work the groover forward and back while making a progressively deeper cut.

Smooth with Trowels

• You’ll have to wait until the concrete can support your weight to start grooving the slab.
• Cut two-foot squares of 1-1/2-in.-thick foam insulation for use as kneeling boards.
• The kneeling board distributes your weight, allowing you to get an earlier start.
  • Grooving creates a weakened spot in the concrete that allows the inevitable shrinkage cracking to take place at the groove rather than at some random spot.
• Cut grooves about every 10 feet in large slabs.
• When you’re done grooving, smooth the concrete with a magnesium float.
  • Hand floating removes imperfections and pushes pebbles below the surface.
• Use the float to remove the marks left by edging and smooth out humps and dips left by the bull float.
  • You may have to bear down on the float if the concrete is starting to harden.
  • The goal is to bring a slurry of cement to the surface to aid in troweling.
• Then further smooth the surface with a steel trowel.
  • Pro tip: For a really smooth finish, repeat the troweling step two or three times, letting the concrete harden a bit between each pass.
    • If you want a rougher, nonslip surface, you can skip the steel trowel altogether. Instead, drag a push broom over the surface to create a “broom finish.”

Let it Harden and Remove Forms

• Keep concrete moist after its poured so it cures slowly and develops maximum strength.
  • The easiest way to ensure proper curing is to spray the finished concrete with curing compound. Curing compound is available at home centers. Follow the instructions on the label. Use a regular garden sprayer to apply the compound.
  • You can lay plastic over the concrete instead, although this can lead to discoloration of the surface.
• Let the successfully poured concrete slab harden overnight before you carefully remove the form boards.
• Pull the duplex nails from the corners and kickers and pry up on the stakes with a shovel to loosen and remove the forms.
  • Since the concrete surface will be soft and easy to chip or scratch, wait for a day or two before building on the slab.
    

The post How to Form and Pour a Concrete Slab appeared first on Family Handyman.

Driveway Sealing Preparation

There are several kinds of driveways for homes, but one of the most popular choices is an asphalt driveway. It can last for almost 30 years, even adding a little curb appeal to your home. But you can’t achieve that long life span unless the driveway was installed properly and you perform regular maintenance, like filling cracks annually and driveway sealing when needed.

Driveway sealing preparation can take a full day (including drying time), and it’s tedious. The driveway sealer application phase is much faster, taking only a few hours per coat for a typical driveway. Most driveway sealer manufacturers recommend two coats with a minimum drying time of eight hours between coats, so this driveway sealing project will fill an entire weekend. Sealing it is also an important step for winterizing your driveway.

The best asphalt driveway sealer materials cost about $100, but you’ll save about $200 in labor over a professional job. A power washer speeds the cleaning process, but you can do the job without it. In addition to a squeegee or application brush, you’ll need a broom, drill, mixing paddle, duct tape, dashing brush and poly sheeting to protect painted surfaces.

Avoid these common driveway sealing mistakes

• Depending on the sealer to fill cracks. It won’t. Fill them properly before applying sealer.
• Failure to clean and prep the driveway before applying the sealer. If you don’t want to spend time cleaning the driveway, you may as well skip the sealer too, because it won’t stick to a dirty driveway.
• Failure to stir properly. Don’t depend on a stir stick. It simply won’t blend the water and solids enough to get a consistent mixture.
• Use of the wrong applicator. Using a brush when the manufacturer specifies a squeegee (or vice versa) will cause premature sealer failure.
• Applying asphalt sealer too often. Too much sealer will flake off. Wait until you begin to see asphalt aggregate before you apply a new coat of sealer.

Buying the Right Materials

Driveway sealer is available in various grades and price ranges. Some bargain products contain almost 50 percent water and have lower coverage rates and a correspondingly shorter guarantee, so they’re not the most cost-effective solution over the long term. Use one of them if you’re trying to spiff up the driveway before selling your home. Premium products, on the other hand, are made with higher quality resins and UV stabilizers and contain filler and elastomeric material, so they last longer and carry a longer guarantee.

Manufacturers also make different formulas for different driveway sealing conditions: one formula for newer driveways in good condition and another formula for older driveways that haven’t been well maintained. The two formulas also vary in their coverage, so read the labels carefully and choose the correct sealer and quantity for your particular driveway. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for the type of applicator to use (brush or squeegee). Using the wrong one can cause premature failure. You’ll also need liquid driveway cleaner/degreaser to remove oil and tree sap. If your driveway has visible oil stains, pick up a bottle of oil spot primer.

Check the Weather Before you Start

You’ll need at least two days of dry weather to seal your asphalt driveway. Temperatures must be above 50 degrees F during application and throughout the night. And, it’s best to avoid scorching-hot sunny days (the sealer may dry too fast). If you ignore the weather forecast, you may see $100 worth of sealer wash away in a heavy rain.

Start with Cleaning and Priming

Use the soap nozzle on your power washer or a garden hose applicator to apply the driveway cleaner. Then scrub the entire driveway with a stiff-bristle push broom.

Even if you think your driveway is clean, trust us, it isn’t. Exhaust gas contains combustion byproducts that deposit a light, sometimes oily film on your driveway. That film, along with dirt and tree sap, must come off if you want the sealer to stick. So clean the driveway first (Photo 1).

Rinse with a Strong Stream

Flush the soap and dirt residue with a 40-degree power washer nozzle or a strong stream of water from your garden hose. Next, rinse the driveway with clear water (Photo 2). Let the driveway dry completely before applying the sealer. Then perform a final sweep with a push broom.

Pretreat the Oil Stains

Pour the oil spot primer on the damaged areas and brush it into the pores with a disposable chip brush. Apply a second coat to heavier stains. Let the primer dry fully before applying the driveway sealer. Treat any oil stains with an oil spot primer (Photo 3).

Mask, Stir and Trim

Start the mixing paddle near the top of the pail and slowly lower it into the contents settled at the bottom. Cycle the mixing paddle up and down while it spins to combine the water and solids into a smooth consistency. Choose an area on the driveway for mixing and cover it with poly sheeting to protect against spills (dried spills will show through the sealer). Remove the pail lids and cut a small hole in the center of one lid. Use that lid to prevent splashing during mixing. Stir until the mixture is smooth (Photo 4).

Cut in the Edges

Dip the dashing brush into the sealer and apply a liberal coating to all four edges of the driveway. Don’t spread it too thin; you want it to fill in all the pores.  Next, cut in all four edges of the driveway with a large dashing brush (Photo 5).

Stage the Pails

Guesstimate the coverage of each pail and stage each additional pail along the driveway. That saves time and reduces the need to walk through wet sealer to get the next pail. Driveway sealer will splash onto your garage door and sidewalks as you pour it. And it’ll get all over your shoes and clothes. It’s very difficult (often impossible) to remove later, so wear old work clothes and shoes. Mask the garage door with poly sheeting and apply strips of duct tape to concrete walks where it butts up to the asphalt. Then stage the pails equally down the driveway (Photo 6).

Pour onto the Driveway

Start at the top left or right edge of the driveway and pour the sealer in an upside-down U-shape pattern. Pour the sealer onto the driveway (Photo 7).

Spread the Sealer

Start at one leg of the upside down ‘U’ and apply even pressure to spread the puddle across the driveway and down along the opposite leg. Then pick up the excess sealer on the down leg and start the next row. Then spread the puddle with a squeegee or broom, depending on the manufacturer’s directions (Photo 8). Pour enough sealer to maintain a puddle in front of the applicator tool.

When you reach the bottom of the driveway, cap the remaining pails and clean the squeegee or brush. Set the empty pails along the curb to prevent cars from ruining the job. Then let the sealer dry overnight.

Repeat the sealer application the next day. Let the sealer dry for 48 hours before driving on it (better safe than sorry). Don’t ask how we learned that lesson.

Driveway sealers: Real protection or just black paint?

Some asphalt driveway companies tell their customers that driveway sealer is a waste of money, that it’s cosmetic and doesn’t do anything to extend the life of the asphalt.

It’s true that driveway sealer can’t replace the liquid asphalt (oil/tar) that oxidizes and bakes out of the mixture from heat and sun exposure. But a high quality sealer can dramatically reduce future heat and UV damage. Plus, it seals the pores to prevent aggregate breakup damage caused by water penetration, freeze/thaw cycles and chemicals. So it really does extend the life of your driveway.

The post How to Seal an Asphalt Driveway appeared first on Family Handyman.

The first step in how to make a propane fire pit is to find the propane burner. The burner runs on propane and will last six to 12 hours on a 20-lb. tank. The fire it produces will warm your hands and take the chill off, but it doesn’t throw off enough heat to keep you warm on a cold night the way a bonfire would. The propane tank is stored under the table, but you can bury a line and hook it up to your home’s natural gas if you wish. The beauty of this projects is that it’s basically a table with a fire pit in middle.

Building a Table: Taper the feet

When building a propane fire pit, start with the base that will house the burner. When building a table cut the posts (A) to length on a miter saw (see Cutting List). Taper the bottom edges about 1/2 in. up with a miter saw. The tapered edges won’t tear out when the table is slid around, and they’ll look better when it’s sitting on uneven ground.

Cut and assemble the frames

Cut three 8-ft. 2x4s in half to create six 4-footers. Rip down five of the six into 1-1/2-in. x 1-1/2-in. boards. From these, cut the frame sides (B) and the front frame bottom (E). The other frame parts (C and D) are cut from full 2x4s.

Secure the frame sides to the tops and bottoms with two 2-1/2-in. screws. Connect the smaller front frame bottom with one screw in each side. Drill 1/8-in. holes through the frame sides before you install the screws.

Attach the side frames to the posts

Drill three holes through the sides of the side frames. Lay the frames flat on your work surface. Align the frames and posts flush at the top, and secure the frames to the posts with three 2-1/2-in. screws. Take note of the wood grain on the posts and place the most attractive sides facing out.

Attach the front and back frames

Set the side frames and posts upside down. Line up the inside corner of the front and back frames with the inside corner of the posts and secure them with three 2-1/2-in. screws driven through predrilled holes.

Install the angle braces

Cut the angle braces (H) from 1-1/2-in. x 1-1/2-in. stock. The total length (9 in.) is from the long point of the 45-degree angles. Use a framing square to check that all the posts are at right angles from the work surface. Then check that the box itself is square by measuring the diagonal distance from the outside of one corner post to another-the two measurements should be the same.

Once everything is square, install the brackets with a 2-1/2-in. screw on each side through a predrilled hole.

Fasten the trim boards

Set your table saw to a 5-degree angle and rip the 1×4 down to 2-1/2 in. That will create a beveled edge to help shed water. Cut the side trim boards (J) and the back trim board (K) to length, but hold off cutting the front. Apply construction adhesive to the frame and set the trim board on two 1-in. spacers. Drive 2-1/2-in. screws through the frame and into the back side of the trim board. Angle the screws a bit to prevent them from poking through the face of the trim board.

Fasten the planks

Cut the back and side tongue-and-groove planks (L) to length. On the back, rip 1 in. off the first plank; that way you’ll end up cutting about 1 in. off the last one as well. I started the first one by removing the groove side. Apply adhesive, and fasten the planks with 1-in. brads, two at the very top of each plank and two near the bottom. Dry-fit the last two planks on the sides before applying adhesive.

Build the door frame and install the ball catches

Cut the door frame sides (F) and door frame top and bottom (G). Assemble the door frame with two 2-1/2-in. screws driven through predrilled holes in the sides into the top and bottom. Dry-fit the door frame in the opening; there should be about a 3/16-in. gap on each side and a 3/8-in. gap above the top.

Predrill a 1/8-in. hole through the sides of the frame 1 in. below the bottom of the top frame board. Using that hole as a guide, drill a 3/4-in. hole (confirm this size with the installation instructions). Either a Forstner or a spade bit will work, but drill in from both sides to avoid a nasty tear-out.

Slide the ball catch into the hole and hold it in place with the retaining plate. The plate can sit on the surface of the wood; no need to cut in a mortise.

Attach the strike plates

Set the door frame into place with the bottom of it resting on the bottom frame of the table. Mark the top and bottom locations of the strike plate using the ball catch retainer plate on the door frame as a guide. Bore out space with your 3/4-in. bit to make room for the recess in the strike plate.

Install the strike plates backward so the curved part of the plate faces in. If the plate protrudes toward the front, it will bump up against the door planks. Hold the strike plate in place, and mark the screw holes with a pencil.

Fasten the door planks and trim board

Adjust the ball catches so there’s an even gap on both sides. Cut the door planks (M) to length and rip 1-1/8 in. off the first panel. Apply adhesive to the frame and set down 1-in. spacers for the planks to rest on. Start the first plank 1/8 in. short of the corner post, and leave the last plank short 1/8 in. Fasten the planks with two 1-in. brads as low and as high as you can (into the door frame, not the table!). Fasten the trim board with adhesive and 1-in. brads through the back of the door panel.

Caulk and apply finish

Apply caulk (that matches the finish) on the sides and the back where the tongue-and-groove planks meet the corner posts. Apply caulk to the top side of the trim board on the door. Don’t caulk the tops of the other three trim boards. That way, if water does get behind the planks it can escape at the bottom.

A couple coats of an exterior-grade stain/sealer will add some color to your project and protect it from damaging UV rays.

Install the outer heat shield

Cut the 3-1/2-in. x 5-in. x 10-ft. galvanized steel dormer flashing (available at home centers) to length with tin snips. Install the flashing, keeping the top flush with the top of the box. Secure the pieces with 1-1/4-in. exterior-grade trim nails or small screws. Seal the corners with RTV high-temperature silicone (sometimes called ‘gasket maker’).

Caution: The bottom of the pan gets hotter without stones in it, so don’t ever run the burner without stones in the pan!

Install the inner heat shield

Cut the galvanized steel deck ledger flashing (sometimes called ‘drip edge’) to length with tin snips. Pound the bottom lip of the flashing flat with a hammer. Install each side so the bottom of the flashing is facing up, and the lip (that was bent flat) is even with the outside of the box frame but short of the planks. This will create a small air gap between the two pieces of flashing.

Build the tabletop form

Cut the melamine base (N) to size with a circular saw. Rip down the form walls on a table saw. Use a straightedge to mark the outline of the form. The inside dimensions of the perimeter walls (P and Q) should be 36 in. x 48 in. Let the perimeter walls run long; that way you’ll have a surface to whack with a hammer when it’s time to dismantle the form. The outside dimensions of the interior walls (R and S) are 12 in. x 24 in. Measure the actual burner ahead of time and check that it will fit before you cut and assemble the inner form walls.

Fasten the form walls with 2-1/2- in. screws placed about 10 in. apart. Melamine splits easily; be sure to predrill holes for the screws. The screw heads need to sit flush, so create a hole for them with a countersink bit. Because the walls can split even if you predrill the holes, drive in the screws slowly so you can stop before they split and create a noticeable bump in the side of the tabletop. Secure the corners with 2-in. brads.

Create a rounded edge with silicone

Run a healthy bead of silicone around the perimeter. Tool it into shape using a 3/4-in. dowel with the end cut at 45 degrees. While you’re tooling, let the excess spill over onto each side of the bead. After the silicone dries, those two lines can easily be pulled and scraped off. Black silicone works best because you can clearly see any excess that needs to be removed. Don’t use silicone on the inside edges. The silicone would make the form walls harder to remove, and those edges will be covered by the burner anyway.

Mix the concrete

Mix the concrete in a wheelbarrow or mixing tub, using a rake or garden hoe. I decided to darken my top by mixing in two bottles of Quikrete Liquid Cement Color dye. It’s important to get exactly the same amount of dye into every bag of mix. If you mix each bag individually, stir the dye into some water first, and separate it into three equal amounts, one for each bag.

Add in your color

I used Quikrete Countertop Mix. Some home centers stock it, but most can order it for you. Countertop mix works great because it can be poured a little wetter (like thick pancake batter) but still retain its strength. That helps prevent voids caused by air bubbles. Follow the directions for whatever product you use.

Fill the form

Set the form on a few 2x4s resting on sawhorses so you can beat the underside of it with a hammer to remove air bubbles. The form should sit fairly level. Spread out the concrete with a concrete trowel or taping knife. Pour in one of the mixed bags and beat the bottom and sides of the form to remove voids and air bubbles. Repeat the process with the second mixed bag before adding the wire mesh.

Set in the wire mesh

Wire mesh will strengthen the top. I cut down a 42-in. x 84-in. sheet (not roll) of remesh. The grid size worked out perfectly. Whatever size mesh you buy, keep it at least 2 in. away from the edges. I cut mine with a pair of small bolt cutters, but you could also use large wire cutters.

Once the mesh is laid in place, spread the last mixed bag of concrete over the top of it. Tap only the sides with a hammer to remove any voids; do not vibrate the rest of the form. This is very important: Vibrating the form will cause the remesh to sink. You’ll get shadow lines if the remesh comes within 1/2 in. of the table’s surface.

Screed off the excess concrete

Slide a 2×4 across the surface to scrape off the excess concrete. Wiggle it back and forth as you go, but try not to shake the whole form too much. That could also cause the remesh wire to sink and create shadow lines. Let the concrete harden a bit before you smooth it out with a trowel or taping knife. It doesn’t have to be perfectly smooth because nobody will ever see it.

Building a Table: Finish up

Take out the form screws, and remove the form walls with a hammer and a pry bar or sturdy scraper. Have a strong buddy (or two) help you flip the top upside down. Seal the tabletop with an exterior-grade concrete sealer.

Install the control panel (if your kit has one), and set your table base exactly where you want it before setting the top into place. Apply the leftover black and high-temp silicone to the top edge of the table. The top is heavy enough that it shouldn’t budge with normal use, but the silicone will create a stronger bond in case your burly, intoxicated brother-in-law falls down on it.

Insert the burner and make the gas line connections according to the manufacturer’s directions. Fill the burner with the recommended amount of rocks. Too few rocks and the pan will overheat; too many rocks and the flame will sit too high and be blown out by the wind.

All that’s left is to invite your friends and family (sans your brother-in-law) for a relaxing conversation around the fire.

The post How to Build a Fire Table appeared first on Family Handyman.

Paver Stone Walkway Overview

Do you want to spruce up an ordinary, all-purpose sidewalk? If so, this project is a great eye-catching solution. It’s basically a brick paver walkway set on a solid bed of gravel and sand. It’ll stay flat and smooth even under heavy use, and unlike concrete, it won’t crack. The brick meanders through a blend of natural stone, also solidly bedded, which adds a unique decorative dimension. You can work in just about any type of stone that complements your home and yard.

Our project dresses up a space along the side of the house from the driveway to a service door. It also provides a firm, smooth surface for rolling a garden cart or wheelbarrow and keeps your feet out of the mud on a rainy day. Its width, a full 7 ft., allows enough room for a bench to kick off your boots, with plenty of space left over for potted plants.

Path building is a great project for homeowners of all skill levels. However, it involves moving tons of material. You should be in good physical shape to tackle this job or enlist a few helpers with strong backs. Once you have all the materials on hand, plan a three-day weekend to finish the whole enchilada.

You need a few special tools for this project: a plate compactor and hand tamper (Photo 4). Rent them both from a local rental yard. Besides a sturdy wheelbarrow and shovels, you’ll need a dolly for moving heavy stones, a brick hammer and chisel, a 4-1/2 in. angle grinder equipped with a diamond blade, and a steel trowel. All these tools are available at home centers and masonry supply stores. Order the brick, stone, gravel and sand from a landscape and/or a brick supplier.

Paver stone walkway design and materials

Although you could build this project on a gentle slope, it’s far easier to set the grade on a relatively flat site. However, one corner of our path site dropped off about 8 in. To make the walk flat, we built it up with soil excavated from the walk and blended it into the lawn. If you have to build the walk up higher than that, you’ll probably have to do more extensive regrading or even build a retaining wall.

You don’t have to build your walk 7 ft. wide like we did, but keep it at least 4 ft. wide to maintain an attractive balance between the stone and the brick. We used a clay paving brick with a soft texture and irregular edges that make it look aged, as if it’s been there forever. When selecting a brick, make sure it’s a paver that’s made to be set in the ground and that has a “severe weather” rating if you have freezing weather.

Big, flat stones are called flagstone, in this case a Wisconsin limestone called Chilton. Stone type and availability vary considerably by region. Choose one that complements your house color and the brick you select. Be sure it’s 1-1/2 to 3 in. thick to avoid cracking over time.

The rounded stone is called fieldstone. We found some rock in our local landscape yard that fit well in the niches of the flagstone. We handpicked 45 of them for our project but they were expensive. If you don’t want to pay the premium price or if this type isn’t available in your area, any fieldstone with at least one reasonably flat face will work. Collect them from your yard or pick through a boulder pile at a landscape yard. Get a variety of sizes from 6 to 18 in. in diameter and 2 to 4 in. thick. Thicker ones will work, but they’re more difficult to set.

Path layout

Lay out and dig the walk 6 to 8 in. wider than the actual size (Photo 1). The extra width supports the paver edging that you’ll install later to keep the brick on the edge from tipping. Locating the walk against the house makes setting the grade easy. Snap a tightly pulled chalk line below the door to the drive to represent the top of the sidewalk and work from this reference (Photo 2). It’s best to set the walk height slightly higher than the surrounding lawn area, 1 in. or so, but no more than 8 in. below a door or the step down will be too high. And plan a slight slope across the width to help drainage, about 1 in. in 6 ft. If you build your walk away from the house, stretch tight string lines to represent the finished height of the walk.

Excavate this job with a buddy who owes you a favor

Digging’s a lot of work, but this is a small enough area that you can dig it out in a few hours with a helper. If you have a low-lying area nearby, dump the extra soil there. Otherwise you might have to rent a 10-cu.-yd. trash bin. Photo 2 shows you how to check the depth of your excavation against your reference line. Since the lawn will probably dip and rise along the outside edge, you may have to add soil to the lawn or cut some away to meet the walk edge evenly. Do this after you set the brick. Dig as accurately as possible. If you dig too deep, fill the area back in with soil and compact with the compactor before adding the gravel.

We had every utility line in the book coming underground into this side of the house (Photo 1), which really slowed down the digging. Carefully dig parallel to these lines, then pull the wires or cable aside to avoid cutting them. After digging, lay them back down and bury them under the gravel.

Move any sprinkler lines that run under the walk or the plate compactor might crush them. You can generally move a sprinkler head yourself if you’re familiar with installation techniques (Photo 3). Otherwise, call in a pro.

Build a firm base

Lay your walk on top of a 6-in. bed of compacted gravel. Skimp on this step and your brick path will settle and heave within a few seasons. Order gravel that ranges in size from 3/4 in. down to a powder (called 3/4 in. -minus or Class II). Figure the volume in cubic feet by multiplying the length (ft.) x width (ft.) x depth (1/2 ft.) of your walk. Add 6 in. to each side that’s not bound by the house and round up the volume to allow for compaction of the gravel. Have it delivered and dumped on the driveway. (Move your car out of the garage first!) Shoveling gravel off pavement is easier than shoveling it off the lawn. At the same time, order about one-fourth as much coarse, washed sand to set the brick on.

Before you spread the gravel, line the excavation with a heavy woven material called stabilization fabric (Photo 4), available from a landscape supplier. It’ll prevent the gravel from mixing with the softer soil underneath, so you’ll have a stable, flat walk for years to come. If it’s not available in your area, substitute a heavy woven landscape fabric.

Fill and compact only a 2- to 3-in. layer of gravel at a time. Rake it out at a consistent depth, using the chalk line on the house as a guide. Run over each layer with the plate compactor at least four times, until the tone of the tamper changes from a dull thud to a hopping rap (Photo 4). Compact corners with a hand tamper.

Use two 1-in. (outside diameter) steel pipes (available from a home center) as a guide to smooth out the last gravel layer (Photos 5 – 7). Take your time when setting this layer. It determines the final grade for the stone and brick. Use a 2×4 marked at 2-3/4 in. to level the pipe closest to the house (Photo 5). Add or remove gravel to support the pipe. To set the walk slope (for draining water away from the house), position the second pipe about an inch lower than the first (Photo 6). Figure 1/8 to 1/4 in. slope per foot, depending on your need for drainage. Screed the last layer of gravel flat and compact it (Photo 7).

Setting the stone

Flagstone has dips, waves and irregular edges that’ll test your patience when you’re setting it. The trick is to focus on making the overall surface a flat plane. Don’t obsess over a low corner or an edge that doesn’t match up perfectly. They won’t. Set three or four stones in an inch or two of sand, then check them in a few places with your 2×4 screed or a level (Photos 8 and 9). Raise or lower any stones that don’t line up. Use your chalk line as a height guideline and maintain your slope for drainage.

When fitting the flagstones, select pieces that naturally fit together. If you have to tweak a piece, chip away edges slowly with a glancing blow of a brick hammer. (Be sure to wear safety glasses when cutting or chipping brick and stone.) Take off too much and you’ll break the stone—usually in the wrong spot! Try to keep the joints no wider than 1-1/2 in.

When placing the fieldstone, set a grouping in place before setting the height (Photo 10). Stand back and scan them, then adjust the shapes, sizes and colors of the arrangement until you like it. Then set them. Make the tops flush with the flagstone or a hair high. Don’t fuss too much; you can always change out a stone later.

How to Move Heavy Flagstones

Flagstones ranging in size from 18 to 42 in. weigh 100 to 300 lbs. plus. These tips will help you get them into place:

• Tip and gently flip large pieces. Don’t try to lift them.
• Tip the pieces onto a dolly with a helper and roll them close to their position. With help, lower them into place.
• Pry the pieces up with a 3-ft. bar to add or remove sand.
• If a piece is just too big to move, break it in half with a sledge. Then match the broken edges, spacing them about 1/2 in. apart so the break looks intentional.

Screed a sand bed

Here’s where the careful setting of the last gravel layer pays off. Again use the pipes to lay an even 1-in. thick bed of sand. You’ll need a shorter pipe to screed sections between the stones (Photo 11). Clear away enough sand left from setting the stone so the pipes rest completely on the compacted gravel layer. Then dump a wheelbarrow of sand between the pipes, spread it out and screed it. Use your trowel to screed in areas you can’t reach with the 2×4.

Don’t compact or walk on the sand layer. You want it smooth for setting the brick. However, you can step on the stone and brick after they’re in place. Next establish lines to guide the brick layout (Photos 13 and 14). In general, set your layout to minimize brick cutting and to avoid small pieces along the edges (Photo 16).

Tip: Lay bricks end to end in the driveway and take measurements to get dimensions for positioning layout lines to your best advantage (Photo 13). It’s also a good way to establish the exact path width.

Laying brick is quick work

Have the brick delivered as close to the walk as possible. Although not necessary, a brick tong (Photo 16) will cut your carrying time by more than half. With it you can easily carry nine or 10 bricks at once. Consider borrowing or buying one from your brick supplier.

As you lay the brick, leave open every space that won’t accept a full brick. It’s faster to cut them all at once later. Every 8 ft. or so, check that your rows are straight with the 2×4 screed. Gap the next row slightly to straighten it. Gaps up to 1/8 in. won’t be noticeable after the joints are filled with sand.

Cutting brick

The best way to cut brick is with a wet saw with a diamond blade, but the clean cut it leaves would be out of character for this rustic walk. So we decided to score the cuts on the underside with an angle grinder (Photo 18) equipped with a diamond blade, then break them with a sharp blow from a brick chisel. The ragged edge looks better with the stone. Scoring the pieces generates a lot of dust and is noisy, so wear a dust mask, earplugs and safety glasses. Cut large pieces first, then fill in the smaller ones. If a piece is too big after you cut it, chip the edge off with a brick hammer to fit. Not every cut has to be exact. Sand will fill in the joints.

Paver edging holds the brick and sand in place

Install special paver edging around the perimeter of the brick and stone (Photo 19), available from a brick or landscape supplier. Each piece locks to the next. When you install it, remember where your sprinkler, phone and cable lines run to avoid piercing them with a spike.

Tamping the brick is a two-step process

First tamp the brick without sand. It’ll smooth out the surface and bring sand up from underneath into the joints. Tie a scrap piece of carpet on the bottom of the tamper to avoid chipping the brick. Next spread dry sand over the surface. Or use leftover sand from the setting bed, if it’s dry. Another option is to buy bags of all-purpose sand. Tamp again. This will lock all the bricks together.

A tight, solid brick and stone walk doesn’t require any maintenance except a simple cleaning with a garden hose once or twice a season. And you can blend your garden right into the walk by planting a ground cover in the joints between the stone, or introduce moss for an aged look.

Figure A: Path Details

How to Install Paver Walkway: Mark the Layout

Paint a line 7 ft. 6 in. away from the house to mark the edge of the sidewalk excavation.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Excavate

Dig 6 to 8 in. of soil from the sidewalk area. Then snap a chalk line on the house to represent the top of the sidewalk. Excavate to a depth of 9 in. below the chalk line with a slight slope away from the house. Caution: Call the local utilities or 811 to locate any buried lines in the vicinity before digging.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Move Utility Lines

Dig around utility lines carefully and lay them at the bottom of the excavation when finished. Cut and reset irrigation lines according to system directions.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Spread and Compact Gravel

Lay fabric over the excavation, spread 2 to 3 in. of gravel and rake it smooth. Dampen the gravel, then pass over the area at least four times with a plate compactor. Repeat with a second 2- to 3-in. layer of gravel.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Add a Final Layer

Spread a final loose layer of gravel about 1 in. thick. Set a 10-ft. x 1-in. outside diameter steel pipe in the gravel and level it 2-3/4 in. below the chalk line.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Use Pipes to Guide a Level Screed

Set a second pipe parallel to the first near the outer edge and level it about 1 in. below the first pipe, using a straight 2×4 and a 4-ft. level with a 3/4-in. scrap block under one end.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Level the Gravel

Pull a 2×4 along the pipes to flatten the loose gravel and fill in low spots. Remove the pipes and fill in the troughs with gravel. Then compact.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Begin Setting Flagstone

Dump a few wheelbarrows of sand on the gravel and set the flagstone 3-in. above the gravel layer. Adjust the corners, adding and removing sand as needed.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Maintain a Slight Slope

Check the surface of the stone with your level so it maintains a slight slope away from the house. Raise or lower edges with the sand.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Fill In with the Fieldstone

Set the fieldstone tightly in the niches of the flagstone. For thicker stone, scrape gravel away with the claw of a hammer. Stand back to check the overall appearance. Change or reset stones that look out of place.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Screed Sand for the Bricks

Rest 1-in. pipes on the compacted gravel, using a short pipe in areas enclosed by stone. Check the slope as in Photo 6, then add sand. Screed the sand off with your 2×4.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Smooth the Sand Bed

Remove the pipes, fill the troughs with sand and smooth with a trowel. Also smooth the areas around the stones with your trowel.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Establish a Right Angle

Snap a chalk line in the sand 6-1/2 brick lengths (about 50-1/2 in.) away from the house. Set a brick at a starting point along the chalk line. Then establish a right angle using the ‘3, 4, 5 triangle’ method.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Snap the Layout Lines

Snap a perpendicular line, then snap a parallel line half a brick length (about 4 in.) away from the first to get the offset for adjacent rows.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Offset Each Row

Lay the brick, starting from the perpendicular line, offsetting every row a half brick.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Place the Full Bricks

Set full bricks at the outer edge of the walk to form a ‘soldier’ row. Leave bricks out that need to be cut and cut them later.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Mark Bricks for Cutting

Hold a brick in place and mark each edge of the cut with a marker. Mark each piece slightly small so it will fit.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Cut the Brick

Score a 1/2-in. deep groove in the underside of the brick with an angle grinder. Then set the brick on scrap carpet, position the brick chisel in the cut and rap it with the hammer to break it, leaving a rough edge.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Attach Paver Edging

Cut away the sand along the edge of the sidewalk down to the gravel with the edge of a trowel. Fasten paver edging along the perimeter of the walk with spikes driven every 12 in.

How to Install Paver Walkway: Begin Compacting

Tie a carpet scrap to the bottom of the plate compactor. Make four passes over the brick and edge of the stone, beginning with the perimeter. 

How to Install Paver Walkway: Fill the Joints with Sand

Sweep dry sand into the brick joints. Run the compactor over the brick and sweep in more sand until the joints are completely full.

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Begin your planning with a call to your local building department to learn about local fire restrictions. Many regions require burning permits and restrict the size of a fire ring.

Choose an area that’s about 18 ft. in diameter and relatively flat. Be sure to locate the fire ring away from trees, bushes and buildings. Remember that burning wood snaps and pops, sending sparks into the air.

Mark the fire ring and patio

Drive a pipe firmly into the ground at the center of the fire ring. Loop a string over the stake and measure out 9 ft. Mark this point with tape. Hold a can of marking spray paint at the tape and spray the complete circle.

Remove the sod

Cut away the sod with a sod cutter. Follow the perimeter and then cut away the inside of the circle. Leave the pipe in place.

Dig Until the Flagstone is 1-in. Below the Sod

Remove enough dirt so that the top of the flagstone sits 1 in. below the surrounding sod. The sod cutter works well for shaving down the grade, but a flat shovel works well too.

Assemble the Ring

Spread a sand base

Drive a 6-in. landscape spike beside the center pipe until it’s 2 in. below the sod level. Drive six additional spikes about 3 ft. away from the center, spacing them evenly around the center. Level the top of each spike with the center one, then spread sand in the circle flush with the tops of the spikes.

Place the first row of stones

Draw a 21-in. radius circle with the string and marking paint. Lay the first row of retaining wall stones (12 in our case) along the line, minimizing the gaps between them. Twist each stone back and forth a few times in the sand to firmly set it. Make the tops level.

Finish setting the stones

Set the second row of stones on top of the first. Straddle the joints of the first row.

Lay the Sitting Area

Many types of materials will make a nice sitting area: various gravels; stone, brick or concrete pavers; flagstones; or even poured concrete. Irregular flagstones with grass planted between them gave us an attractive, informal look. A flagstone sitting area is easy to lay and easy to maintain. Just run the lawn mower over the stones to trim the grass.

Fit the flagstones to the fire ring

Spread 1 in. of sand over the sitting area. Fit the first flagstone tightly to the fire ring. Twist it into the sand to firmly set it. If it rocks, add or remove sand to stabilize it.

Finish laying the stone

Fit and set stones out to the circle’s edge. Keep the flagstone edges flush to one another and leave 2- to 4-in. spaces in between. You can break larger flagstones with a sledgehammer. Caution: Wear eye protection when breaking stone.

Fill the gaps between the flagstones

Fill the spaces between the stones with topsoil to about 1/2 in. below the top. Then cut sod with a knife to fit between the stones. Press the sod firmly into the soil and keep the sod damp until it has rooted.

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