Mark the layout on the floor

Eliminate wood framing basics mistakes by chalking a full-size map of your walls directly on the floor. First, mark the inside edge of the wall at each corner and snap chalk lines. Mark the location of interior walls as well and snap chalk lines on both sides of interior wall locations to ensure correct plate positions.

Double-check all of your layout lines to ensure the walls are parallel, the corners are at right angles, and the dimensions match the plans. Then, measure and cut a top and bottom plate for each wall as shown. Double-check lengths by setting the plates in their exact position.

Windows and doors first

Find the center of each window and door opening. Then divide the “rough opening” (given on your plan or in the window literature) by two and measure out to the left and right of the center mark. Write a “T” to the outside of both marks to indicate trimmer locations. Measure over 1-1/2- in. and draw another line. Mark an “X” outside these marks for the full-height king studs.

Mark the studs

With the openings marked, lay out the stud locations. The goal is to position the studs every 16 or 24 inches so that the edges of 4×8 sheets of plywood align with the centers of the studs. Subtract 3 inches from the first layout mark. Then hook your tape on a partially driven nail at this mark, and mark at each 16- or 24-in. multiple. Make an “X” on the same side of each layout mark to indicate the stud position. Mark studs that land between window or door trimmers with a “C” to indicate cripples rather than full-height studs.

Transfer layout marks

Set the plates side by side and transfer the marks from the top plate to the bottom plate using a square. Some carpenters mark only the edge of the plates. We show marking the wide face, which will help you align twisted studs. Tack the pairs of plates together with 8d nails after marking them so they don’t get separated and mixed with other plates. Then, set them aside until you’re ready to build that wall.

Full-height headers

Calculate header lengths by adding 3 inches to the rough opening width. Add 6 inches to headers that require two trimmers on each side. Cut header parts and nail them together. Label the headers. In many plans, headers are positioned against the top plate. If yours are, begin wall assembly by positioning and nailing these “full-height” headers to the top plate with 16d nails.

Nail studs and trimmers

Lay full-length studs between the plates and nail king studs to the headers and to the top and bottom plates. Nail in all the full-height studs and corner assemblies. Note: Sight down each stud before you nail it in, and orient any bow (crown) upward. Then, install the trimmers.

Toenail cripples above headers

In wood framing basics and wall plans that have openings with cripples above the header, cut and nail together the king studs and trimmers first. Position and nail them to the plates. Set the header on the trimmers and nail through the king studs to hold it in place. Then measure and nail the cripples into place. You have to toenail the bottom of the cripples to the header.

Add sills for windows

Window openings are just like doors but with the addition of a rough sill. Mark the top of the sill by measuring down from the header. Use the rough opening height for this dimension. Cut the lower cripples and place one under each end of the sill as a temporary support while you toenail the sill to the trimmers with a pair of 8d nails at each end.

Align the cripples with the layout marks and nail through the sill and bottom plate to hold them in place. Use pairs of 16d nails. Some carpenters like to double the rough sill, especially on openings wider than about 3 feet. If you do this, remember to allow for the thickness of a double sill when you cut your cripples.

The post Fool-Proof Wall Framing Tips for New Construction appeared first on Family Handyman.

VIA MERCHANT

The best overall pocket-hole jig is the tried and true Kreg 720Pro. Kreg is a storied brand working since 1989 to perfect its pocket-hole jigs. While Kreg has been patenting jigs since the 90s, the 720Pro was released in 2021, and after 30 years of development and innovation, we feel it is truly the Cadillac of pocket-hole jigs. The 720Pro comes fully stocked, including the upgraded jig, onboard storage for all drills and accessories, a vacuum adaptor for integrated dust collection, and multiple bonus items, including a clamp, docking stations, free project plans, and 160 Kreg pocket-hole screws.

The jig is lighter than expected, with a solid build constructed with a steel frame and impact-resistant polymer. When testing, I took advantage of the unit’s upgrades, including the anti-slip grip, automatic material thickness setting ability, and vacuum attachment, differentiating it from older models. The automatic thickness measurer was helpful in my specific project when switching between one-by-two boards and plywood, saving me time manually switching my depth.

The thickness measurer works in tandem with the anti-slip grip to ensure the wood for your project stays secure so you can drill the best pocket holes every time. This tool allowed me to complete my project more efficiently while ensuring I had no issues with slipping or sloppy joints. The shelves I built with the 720PRO are the most secure, and I’m excited to use this jig for my future projects.

Item Weight: 7.9 lbs. | Item Dimensions: 13.56 x 9.25 x 6.81 inches | Material Thickness Range: 1/2″ to 1 1/2″ | Material Thickness Setting: Automatic Adjustment with Automaxx | Mobility: Bench-top | Dust Collection: 2 Position Dust Blade

VIA MERCHANT

Best Budget Pocket-Hole Jig

Vevor Pocket-Hole Jig Kit

Shop on Walmart

The Vevor Pocket Hole Jig Kit may have been one of the biggest surprises throughout testing. I didn’t have as much hope for this jig since it was the least expensive option we tested, costing less than half that of the other jigs.

When testing, this jig surprised me with its solid build and outperformance of more than one of the pricier options. This bright orange jig has an aluminum alloy body and a stainless-steel extension rod that makes it light enough to be portable but still has enough weight to perform well. On my first use of this jig, I did have a slight learning curve in ensuring the bolts were fully tightened after adjusting for my material width.

After some adjusting, I got a solid clamp that resulted in smooth holes and tight joints for my shelves. The drill bit included with this jig was less sharp than others tested and would likely need to be replaced if being used for a larger project, but it produced clean holes for the smaller project I used it for. As a homeowner on a budget, I frequently find myself diving into new projects and buying the tools to complete them. When I started my woodworking journey, I purchased a different budget option, and after trying the Vevor Pocket Hole Jig, I’m upset I didn’t choose this one. While I have other jigs I use more due to their upgraded features, this is a great option for anyone who doesn’t want to break the bank.

Item Weight: 4.0 lbs. | Item Dimensions: ‎11.4 x 2.36 x 3.94 inches | Material Thickness Range: 1/2″ to 1 1/2″ | Material Thickness Setting: Manual Adjustment | Mobility: Portable

VIA MERCHANT

Best Pocket-Hole Jig for Beginners

Wen Pocket Hole Jig Kit

Shop on Walmart

If you’re new to woodworking, the Wen Pocket Hole Jig Kit is our pick. The Wen Pocket-Hole Jig is a solid and reasonably priced jig that comes with everything you need to get started on your first woodworking project. From the actual unit (which is well-built) to its kit that comes with everything from a drill bit and mounting plate to an assortment of screws and hole plugs, it’s truly an all-inclusive option.

I used this unit without the mounting bracket as a portable jig for most of the testing, and it lived up to its high reviews online. I could easily adjust the thickness measurement and had a solid clamp in no time to start drilling. One thing I did notice with this unit was that it was very slippery on the bottom, making it a little more difficult to get a solid clamp. I mounted this jig to see if that would impact performance, and it was much more stable and gave me great results.

A feature of this jig I didn’t see as often with others was the ability to offset your hole width. This wasn’t necessary for my project, but if that’s something you may need for yours, it’s a nice option. Overall, I liked this jig. It’s a great starter pack and was great to have for drilling pocket holes and saved me when I was two screws short for my project.

Item Weight: 4.61 lbs. | Item Dimensions: 11.1 x 5.39 x 3.94 inches| Material Thickness Range: 1/2″ to 1 1/2″ | Material Thickness Setting: Manual Adjustment | Mobility: Portable or Mount to Bench

VIA MERCHANT

Best Heavy-Duty Pocket Hole Jig

Drill Master Portable Pocket Hole Jig Kit

Shop on Walmart

The Drill Master Portable Pocket Hole is my pick for the best heavy-duty jig that we tested. This jig is made of solid aluminum and steel, making it next to indestructible and a great option for those looking for a long-term use jig. One of my favorite features of this pocket-hole jig is how sturdy it is when mounted. Throughout my testing, I noticed that many of the mountable jigs only came with two screw holes for mounting, which did work but allowed some wobble when used. The Drill Master comes with four holes placed strategically to allow for the most solid mount, which made using this jig much easier.

While using it as a portable unit, it was less solid but still a great tool. My only concern with this jig would be the provided drill bit. At some points, the bit seemed too big for the jig, which caused some friction on the unit and a less clean cut. I tested this jig with a different bit and didn’t have the same issue, so you may want to buy a backup bit if you’re going to purchase this jig. After adjusting the bit and mounting this jig, I was able to quickly and accurately drill clean and consistent pocket holes. This pocket jig doesn’t have all the bells and whistles, but it does a great job, and it’s built to last.

Item Weight: 4.59 lbs. | Item Dimensions: 9.5 x 5.0 x 3.5 inches| Material Thickness Range: 1/2″ to 1 1/2″ | Material Thickness Setting: Manual Adjustment | Mobility: Portable or Mount to Bench

VIA MERCHANT

Best Bundle Pocket-Hole Jig

Milescraft 1327 Pocket Jig 400

Shop on Walmart

If you’re looking for a higher-end bundle to start your woodworking experience, the Milescraft 1327 Pocket Jig 400 is an amazing option. With one of the more solidly built pocket-hole jigs we tested and many additional features, this one is a great option for those looking to upgrade or who have a more heavy-duty first project.

The Milescraft 1327 Pocket Jig 400 kit has everything you need for woodworking. From an integrated storage drawer, optional mount, dust collector attachment, and high-quality drill bits, drivers, and screws, this kit has it all. I loved working with this kit and it’s likely my runner-up to best overall. It was a heavy jig that made drilling insanely easy.

The storage drawer helped me avoid losing everything and kept it in one easily accessible place, and I was impressed with the quality and usability of both the dust attachment and the included screws. Adjusting the clamp and drill holes was simple and easy, and the only thing I think this jig was missing was the ability to detach for mobile use. The Milescraft 1327 Pocket Jig 400 is a beast and an amazing deal and the best kit I’ve found.

Item Weight: 5.7 lbs. | Item Dimensions: ‎14.25 x 6.73 x 5.75 inches | Material Thickness Range: 1/2″ to 1 1/2″ | Material Thickness Setting: Manual Adjustment | Mobility: Portable or Mount to Bench | Dust Collection: Optional Dust Collection Attachment

VIA MERCHANT

Best Pocket-Hole Jig for Small Spaces

Powertec Aluminum Pocket-Hole Jig Set

Shop on Home Depot

The worst part about starting a new hobby is finding room for all your new supplies. Woodworking is no different and can take up a lot of space between the wood and the needed tools for your project.

Thankfully, the Powertec 71844 Aluminum Pocket-Hole Jig Set is a great option for those with little space. The Powertec 71844 is a versatile model with features that will make your life in a small workspace much more enjoyable. I currently do my woodworking out of my garage, which is not a small space – but I previously worked out of a small shed and always had criteria for new tools. I would look for tools with easy cleanup, a small storage footprint, durability, and versatility when possible and the Powertec checks all those boxes. While there were multiple units with dust ports, many were separate from the unit and something I likely would lose.

The Powertec has an integrated dust port that was not only connectable to my wet/dry vacuum but also was small enough to connect to my vacuum cleaner to minimize dust in my space. It’s a small but heavy unit that gave solid clamps and allowed me to drill clean and accurate holes. It’s easy to store with a minimal footprint and has the versatility of having a removable base stand for projects with a larger material thickness without requiring a second jig. The Powertec is my number one choice for those looking for a jig that can do it all in a small footprint.

Item Weight: 3.94 lbs. | Item Dimensions: ‎9.75 x 4.75 x 5.25 inches| Material Thickness Range: 1/2″ to 1 1/2″ | Material Thickness Setting: Manual Adjustment | Mobility: Portable or Mount to Bench | Dust Collection: Integrated Dust Port

What to Look for When Buying a Pocket-Hole Jig

When buying a pocket-hole jig, consider a few things before deciding which will work best for your project.

Jig Material

Pocket jigs are made with numerous materials ranging from plastic to steel. Depending on your project scope and budget, a lower-end plastic jig may work, but for something you’ll use often, it would be a better investment to purchase a metal jig.

Material Thickness Range

Before purchasing a jig, make sure it’s compatible with the wood thickness you’ll be using for your project. Most jigs can handle boards between ½” and 1½”, but some can handle boards outside that thickness.

Pocket Hole Diameter

When purchasing a pocket hole jig, you should be aware of three different sizes of pocket hole diameters. While most jigs on the market have a standard ⅜” diameter, there is an XL option with a ½” diameter. If you work with thicker materials, you may want to get an XL jig.

Additional Features

While all jigs function to do the same task, they aren’t all created equal. Depending on your situation and your project, it may make sense to splurge on a jig with more features. Some features that aren’t standard but are helpful when woodworking are built-in storage, an integrated dust collection method, a mounting ability, screws and drill bits, and more. We’ve detailed some options in this article on which features may be helpful in specific situations.

Why You Should Trust Us

As a homeowner with champagne taste on a beer budget, I’ve had many DIY experiences with woodworking and using pocket hole jigs. While my first woodworking project was building Adirondack chairs to better enjoy my outdoor fire pit, I’ve used pocket hole jigs for everything from shelving to building a custom headboard and will continue to use my favorite jigs from this piece to build cabinets for my garage soon.

How We Found the Best Pocket-Hole Jig

To find the best pocket-hole jig on the market, we did our research. After looking at the hundreds of options online and in local stores, we narrowed our list down from over 20 to a top nine that we would test in person. There are many different brands on the market and even more models from each, so we considered price, accessibility, features, and use cases to bring you the best. While some of the jigs do have additional features, they all meet the industry standard for material thickness range and drill depth, which we could compare side by side. Over the course of a few weeks, I used the different pocket hole jigs in different building projects and on different material thicknesses to see how they held up. After reviewing testing notes and usability, we could confidently pick our top six pocket-hole jigs.

How We Put Nine Pocket-Hole Jigs to the Test

At Family Handyman, we put our tools to the test to ensure we know which are truly the best. To find the best pocket hole jig, we narrowed our list to nine different jigs and put them to work. With multiple DIY projects requiring pocket jigs, I tested each option while upgrading my closet with built-in shelving and storage. The materials used for the shelving were on the thinner side, so I also tested each jig on a scrap piece of 2×4 to see how each held up on a thicker cut of wood. Over a few weekends, I was able to put each to the test and have found six different pocket hole jigs I love, that are the best on the market in their respective categories.

FAQ

What depth should I set my Kreg jig for 2×4?

The depth of your pocket jig should be set to the thickness of whatever you will be joining. In the case of a 2×4, since a 2×4’s real thickness dimension is 1.5 inches, you will need to use the 1.5-inch Kreg settings for a 2×4 or any 2x board.

What is the purpose of a pocket hole jig?

The purpose of a pocket jig is to ensure that pocket holes are drilled at a precise angle to achieve a good joint when woodworking. You can drill pocket holes without a jig, but they can be inconsistent in angle and appearance, resulting in weak joints and a less attractive finished project.

Should pocket holes go all the way through?

No! Pocket holes should not go all the way through. When drilling pocket holes, there will be a small section that’s not drilled through. This ensures the screw has a space to make contact to ensure strong joints, and it also prevents wood fraying or cracking on the end grain of your wood.

The post 6 Best Pocket-Hole Jigs, Tested and Reviewed by a DIYer appeared first on Family Handyman.

Any time you try to pencil a long level line by repositioning that 2-ft., or even 4-ft., level end to end, you’ll build in an error that magnifies as you extend the line. You can use several tools indoors and out to improve your leveling results. Here, I’ll show you the best techniques and tools for short, medium and long distance leveling.

Combine a Level with a Straight Board

Combining a straight board and a 2-ft. level is a good yet inexpensive way to level shorter distances from 4 to 15 feet. For tasks like laying out deck beam heights (pictured above), set your 2-ft. level on top of a perfectly straight 2×4 to extend its reach accurately. Two-by-six and 2×8 lumber is too heavy to hold steady. To make a lot of measurements quickly, strap the level to the 2×4 with duct tape or an elastic cord.

But it has to be a straight board. I can’t emphasize that enough. Yes, it’s still cheaper than buying a new level, but chances are you won’t be able to get any random 2×4 out of the cheapest pile at the home center. To find the straightest one, sight down the edges. You can always trim a board on a table saw for a straight edge.

If you’re using this method for mounting deck beams, pencil the height of the wall ledger onto each deck post.

Use a Line Level

For jobs where absolute accuracy is less essential, like digging slopes in trenches, use an inexpensive line level. Hook it directly onto a strong string, like nylon mason’s line. For the level to work properly, use only one line level per string, draw the line very tight, and ensure there’s little wind to blow the level around.

Set drainage slopes by measuring from a level string line. Tap in a reference stake and then a series of measuring stakes 6 feet apart along the trench. Check the trench depth for the proper drainage slope by tying off the string line level at each perimeter measuring stake and measuring the depth of that spot in the trench.

Measure off the string line once the level reads true and stabilizes. The line level is true when the bubble settles between the hairlines.

Electronic Water Levels

The simple principle behind a water level is that the water columns inside two open ends of a single tube will be level with each other. Using crude water levels (like a section of garden hose) requires two people. For solo work, we recommend you buy an electronic water level. It’s highly accurate, has a 25-foot working radius and allows you to work alone and around corners because it “honks” when the water in the working tube is level with the reference line back at the unit.

First, calibrate the electronic water level by attaching it plumb and level to a plywood scrap. Fill the tube with water and bleed air out of the line. Calibrate by loosening both tube clamps, turning on the electronic level and raising the working tube to the reference line. The unit’s horn should sound as the water in the working tube touches the reference line. Add red, water-based food coloring for easier viewing when filling the tube with water. Clamp off both tube ends with the clips provided so that water doesn’t suddenly spill out.

If you first establish a reference mark at the level and pencil many layout lines around a room (including around corners), you can connect the marks with chalk lines. Measure up (or down) from any line to accurately set acoustical ceiling track, install level wainscoting or add lumber wall blocking for hanging cabinets.

For best results, avoid water leaks from the water level by clipping the end of the working tube when not actually using it for a measurement. Take care not to step on the tube as you move around a room.

If water leaks or air bubbles enter the tubing, you must refill the tube and recalibrate the unit to maintain accuracy.

Laser Levels for Heights and Very Long Distances

Use a rotary laser level for tasks like setting concrete form boards, cutting fence post tops or building retaining walls. The rotary laser shoots a level beam in a continuous circle like a lighthouse. Rotary laser levels are the fastest tools for accurately establishing leveling marks (in direct view of the laser) anywhere on a building site. For big-time savings, rent a self-leveling rotary laser.

Rotary lasers work in tandem with a “target” laser detector. The laser’s continuous beam is too faint to be seen in daylight, so a sensor in the laser detector will chirp when it detects the beam. Mounted on an elevation rod (the kind surveyors use), the laser detector slides up and down the rod until it “finds” the laser beam to establish the proper elevation.

For the fastest results in setting footing form boards, have one person use the elevation rod to find the laser beam and a second person set the form boards. Prepare a form board for placement by lifting it against a support stake and driving a couple of 3-in. deck screws through the board, ready to set into the stake. Once the laser detector chirps to signal “level,” drive the screws home.

The post How To Use a Level Over Long Distances appeared first on Family Handyman.

I tend to get frustrated with suction loss from a dirty filter, having to clean my expensive HEPA filters or waiting for my filter replacement to arrive in the mail. With a Oneida Dust Deputy, I no longer have frequent issues with suction or restricted airflow. Removing sawdust is as simple as dumping out the trash can! Adding a cyclone separator was an affordable upgrade to my dust collection system, and it saved me money on replacement filters and dust collection bags.

In this review, I’ll show you why I added a Dust Deputy to my workshop, why you should add a cyclone separator to your dust collection system, and the pros and cons of the options available.

What is the Oneida Dust Deputy?

When sawdust enters a cyclone separator, it spins around the funnel until heavy wood chips fall into the collection bin while the fine dust makes its way up to the vacuum filter—so the filter works better and longer. The Dust Deputy isn’t a vacuum, and there is no motor. You run a cyclonic dust separator between a tool (like a table saw) and your shop vac. It’s installed between the intake hose and the shop vac or dust collector.

Why add a cyclonic separator to your shop? The biggest reason is that it turns a single-stage dust collector into a two-stage one. With a one-stage system, all the dust and debris runs over the impellers, through the filter and into the collection bag. The impeller gets a lot of wear, and the filter fills up quickly and needs to be cleaned more often.

With a two-stage system, the cyclone separates the dust before it reaches the impeller so only the fine dust goes through the impeller, saving wear on the impeller and filter. The motor lasts longer, too, because the separator filters out larger debris (basically everything except dust particles) so it doesn’t pass through the collector. If you’ve heard that loud “clunk” when a chip hits your expensive impeller, you know that dreaded feeling.

VIA MERCHANT

I Tried It

Oneida Air Systems Dust Deputy Deluxe

We tested the new Dust Deputy, and it's now one of our favorite shop tools.

$119.95 at Amazon

Dust Deputy Features

• Patented cyclone separator, which upgrades any make and model wet/dry vacuum into a two-stage dust control system
• Easy to assemble
• Captures and removes up to 99.9% of dust and debris from air before it reaches the vacuum filter
• Neutral vane inlet improves performance by over 20% compared to other cyclones without this feature; this rectangular inlet feature directs the air down into the cyclone and prevents air turbulence at the inlet

How I Tested the Dust Deputy

I have had a Dust Deputy in my shop for over a year, so I’ve been able to use it repeatedly. I can count on it to perform as expected while it extends the life of my dust collector and shop vac. Standard wet/dry vacs rely on small filters that quickly become clogged with dust and debris. Each time you try to clean the filter by tapping or washing it, the fine fiber construction of the filter becomes damaged.

I first used the Dust Deputy to mill lumber, helping control all the sawdust a planer and jointer generate. And don’t even get me started on the table saw!

I also used the Dust Deputy with my shop vac to improve its performance. I eventually upgraded all my filters to HEPA filters, which are more expensive to replace. They are also ultra-delicate. Have you ever sucked up a stray screw with your shop vac? You don’t want that rattling around in your expensive HEPA filter.

Although I still need to clean and replace filters and collection bags occasionally, it’s much less often with the help of the Dust Deputy.

Assembly was straightforward. When putting the components together, don’t use a power drill, as the threads on the inside are plastic and could strip if you use a drill. Attaching the Dust Deputy to the tool and vacuum was simple. The inlet side connects to your tool, and the top hose goes to the shop vac.

There are different types of Dust Deputy cyclone separators. I chose a model under $100 that fit my shop size and needs. A great way to find out which version is best for your shop is to use the product selector tool on the Oneida Air Systems website. It will ask what machine you use most for shop cleanup (a shop vac or dust collector) and what material you’re collecting (non-abrasive dust like wood and drywall or abrasive dust like sand and gravel). It also asks if you have size constraints, if it needs to fit under a workbench or if there’s plenty of space to go.

Something I learned that wasn’t in the manual is to make sure the sawdust level in the collection bin stays lower than halfway, or you’ll start to see wood chunks make their way up to the shop vac or dust collector. There must be plenty of room for air to circulate inside the bin.

The lid is pop-on and off, so I learned quickly not to pick it up by the cyclone. While I’d like to carry the Dust Deputy and shop vac together on a cart, I have yet to make one, so my Dust Deputy sits under my miter saw station with the hose clipped in place with these clamps.

I was pleased to discover that the Dust Deputy is compatible with any make/model machine in my shop. It comes with tapered ports that fit standard 1.5-inch to 2.5-inch hose fittings. It also works with most materials: Wood dust, drywall dust, concrete dust, water, baking flour, grass, pet hair—just to name a few.

I chose the Dust Deputy over making a DIY version because making my own was more fuss than it was worth. The Oneida system comes with a collapse-proof bucket that won’t fold under high vacuum pressure, and the anti-static components significantly reduce the likelihood of static shocks. Clear, see-through plastic components give a real-time view of how much dust the cyclone separates from the air.

Pros

• Captures 99.9% of dust and debris from air
• Prevents metal or other foreign objects from damaging impellor
• Extends life of your machine’s dust filter
• Available in various sizes and configurations
• Anti-static components
• Maintains suction power

Cons

• Lack of portability

FAQ

How do I clean my Oneida filter?

Cleaning the Dust Deputy is as easy as it gets. First, remove the lid from the collection bin, and then dispose of the dust and debris collected in the bin.

What Other Experts and Reviewers Think

“I added the Super Dust Deputy 4/5 to my small studio furniture workshop to save on bag changes and to capture large chips that were getting caught and causing clogs in the main collector. The separation was appealing to help save time dealing with both those issues,” explains Ashley Pieper, woodworker, artist and owner of Shallow Creek Woodcraft.

“Setup and hook up is simple. Emptying the bin is easy and quick,” Ashley explains. “The Dust Deputy takes my collection system to a two stage with better suction at my tools and better air quality in the shop. Overall, it’s a great product that works exactly as advertised, and that is always a plus!” When asked if there were any issues with the Dust Deputy, Ashley said, “This is more of a conditional preference than an issue but a larger collection bin would work better for the amount of milling I do.”

Verified Amazon purchaser, M.W. appreciated the easy installation and has this to say, “Setup is even easier than the instructions indicate. And everything fit perfectly into my old Rigid 5 gal wet/dry vac…Ultimately – I wanted this to save on cleanup. And it tackled this task amazingly well! But more so it keeps ALL the dust out of the air (and subsequently my lungs!). The whole area feels and smells cleaner. And cleanup is now a 1 minute job – instead of the 30+ mins it used to be (AND sawdust doesn’t get literally EVERYWHERE!!). Not to mention: the vacuum bin is spotless!”

Five star Amazon reviewer, R. Marks, writes, “Good for dust control and keeping your vacuum working. It allows a lot of the dust to drop out before being sucked in the main vacuum. Saves time in the shop.”

Oneida Air Systems verified buyer, Andre B., had this to say: “It works for more than just sawdust. I bought this on a chance that it would work on something other than wood saw dust, and it did not disappoint! I do a lot of router work on foam insulation board for Halloween and Christmas yard decorations. Using just a shop vac would clog my filter in a short time. The Dust Deputy has eliminated my filter clogging. This device collects dust so fine that it statically sticks to the insides of bucket. I don’t quite know the physics behind the Dust Deputy, but it works like magic! I would definitely recommend the DD! No more foam insulation dust everywhere!”

Oneida Air Systems vs. DeWalt, Jet and Mullet

If you’re in the market for a cyclone separator, you’ve likely encountered other popular products from big brands, such as the DeWalt Separator, Jet Cyclonic Separator and the complete system Mullet Cyclone Separator. I chose Oneida Air Systems Dust Deputy because it’s a well-known brand and made in the USA.

There were mixed reviews online for the Jet, with some customer concerns about clogging. I was able to test the DeWalt Separator, and it has standout features that the Dust Deputy doesn’t have, such as the locking clasps on the lid, which make it more secure and easier to open. The lid on the Dust Deputy is a pop top that either takes a couple of tries or needs a bucket tool to open it. The DeWalt Separator has excellent hose storage that fits everything snuggly and securely into the collection bin, and the base includes caster wheels.

Final Verdict

While the DeWalt Separator was a strong contender, I felt that the Dust Deputy was made of stronger material. The see-through feature was a must-have, and the separation efficiency was better, as I had more dust and wood chips left in the Dust Deputy collection bin compared to the other brands.

An affordable upgrade to my dust collection system, the Dust Deputy has saved me time and money on expensive replacement filters and dust bags. The simple design can be adapted to any shop vac or dust collector. It also simplifies waste disposal, holding much more dust and debris than what reaches the vacuum.

Where to Buy the Oneida Dust Deputy

VIA MERCHANT

I Tried It

Oneida Air Systems Dust Deputy Deluxe

Our favorite wet/dry vac for all your shop cleaning needs.

$119.95 at Amazon

You can buy the Dust Deputy Deluxe from Amazon for a list price of about $120. Numerous Dust Deputy kits in various sizes and configurations to suit different vacuum setups and dust collection needs, ranging in price from around $40 to a stainless steel model for about $1,500, are also available on Amazon. They even have a cyclonic separator just for Festool vacuums.

The post Oneida Dust Deputy Review: Tested by a Professional Woodworker appeared first on Family Handyman.

Now for the obvious question: Where does the sizing system come from and why does “d” stand for penny? The “d” goes way back to the time when the Romans occupied what is now England. The “d” is associated with a Roman coin called the denarius, which was also the name for an English penny.

So what’s that got to do with nails? It was associated with nails when they were hand-forged, one at a time. Some say a hundred 3-1/2 inch nails would have cost 16 pennies and thus became known as 16-penny nails. Others say that the number and the “d” indicate that one 16d (3-1/2 inch) hand-forged nail cost 16 pennies.

Who knows which version is true, or why the “d” designation persists even in the building codes today, but fortunately, retail boxes of nails are marked with the penny size as well as the length in inches.

Nail Size Conversion Chart

Print out this handy reference chart and tape it in your tool box, just in case you forget.

The post What Does the ‘D’ In Nail Sizes Mean? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Submit Building Plans

• Make a scale drawing of your plans to submit to your local building inspections department.
  • Note: Your plan should include wall dimensions, window and door sizes, and each room’s purpose (e.g., family, bedroom, etc.) along with any special features like fireplaces. Some rooms may require large windows, called “egress” windows, for fire safety. Ask your building inspector if you need them. Also measure the future finished ceiling height and low-hanging pipes or ducts that’ll lower headroom.
• Sketch the details of the exterior wall construction you intend to use as we show in this article.
  • Pro tip: If you’re uncertain about the best use of space, hire an architect to help with the design.
• If you choose to do your own electrical work, draw up and submit that plan as well.
• With your plan and permit in hand, clear everything out of the basement and you’re ready to go.
  • Pro tip: Walk around the basement with caulk and cans of spray foam and plug every gap you can find between framing and masonry and around pipes or wires that penetrate the rim joist or exterior walls. This is your last chance to seal air leaks from the inside.

Insulating Basement Walls

• Start by gluing 3/4-inch extruded polystyrene foam insulation to fit against the rim joists and foundation walls.
  • Note: Extruded polystyrene foam can be yellow, pink or blue depending on the manufacturer for insulating basement walls. Avoid “expanded” foam insulation (the type that has little white beads pressed together) when insulating basement walls because it isn’t as durable and has a lower R-value.
• Make cuts by snapping chalk lines to mark and then score it with a utility knife as deep as the blade will penetrate. Then snap the sheet just like you cut drywall.
• Carefully cut around obstructions and fill spaces with small chunks of foam wherever it’s needed, working for tight fits.
• Spread a 1/4-inch bead of adhesive on masonry walls and press the sheets into place.

Caulk Gaps

• Caulk seams and gaps between the framing
• Foam along the rim joists with more foam to seal against air infiltration and leaks.
  • Note: You’ll add fiberglass later for a higher R-value. The foam greatly reduces heat transfer through the masonry and framing, and it eliminates the need for a plastic moisture barrier later.
  • Pro tip: Be sure to use adhesive formulated for use with foam (about $3 per tube) when insulating basement walls. Conventional construction adhesive won’t work for insulating basement walls.

Cut Top and Bottom Plates

• Snap chalk lines 4 inches away from the insulation on the exterior walls.
• Cut 2×4 bottom and top plates and lay out stud locations every 16 inches on each plate as you’re insulating basement walls.

Anchor the Bottom Plate

• Squeeze a 1/4-inch bead of construction adhesive to bottom plates and position them.
• Pre-drill with a hammer drill and anchor them with concrete screws.

Install Blocking

• Nail 2×4 blocking about every 3 feet into the first floor joist to support the top plate.
• Toe-screw them to the rim joist through the foam to continue insulating basement walls.

Install the Top Plate

• Plumb from the edge of the bottom plate to the blocking with a straight 2×4 and level.
• Snap a chalk line and screw the top plate to the blocking with 3-inch screws.

Install the Studs

• Measure between the plates at each layout mark and cut each stud to length.
• Toenail the studs into place at the top and bottom with two 8d (2-3/8 inch) nails in one side and a third centered on the other side.

Half-Wall Studs

• For framing half walls, make all of the studs the same length and cut them so the wall is slightly taller than the masonry.
  • Pro tip: The wall may be uneven because of floor inconsistencies, but you can always sight along the top plate and then shim it until it’s flat before installing the finished top cap.
• Lay out the stud locations on the plate and nail the studs in place with 16d nails.

Install the Knee Wall

• Tip the knee walls up and fasten them to the floor.
• Fasten blocks through the foam into the masonry at every third stud with 3-inch concrete screws.
• Plumb and screw the studs to the blocking for a solid wall.
  • Pro tip: Be sure to sight along its entire length to make sure it’s straight.

Noise through the ceiling is a common complaint. Avoid trouble and learn how to soundproof your basement ceiling.

Install 2x4s

• Measure to the floor to find the lowest pipe or duct in the room; that’ll define how low the soffit must be.
• Mark a point 2 inches lower on the wall to allow space for the framing and drywall.
• Nail on a 2×4 nailing strip using the chalk line to position the bottom of the strip.
• Snap another line on the bottom of the joists with a 2-1/2 inch clearance.

Build the Soffit Front

• Rip 1/2-inch plywood strips to the depth of the soffit and screw 2x2s even with both edges with 1-5/8 inch screws.
  • Pro tip: It’s easiest to preassemble the 8-foot-long soffit side sections and screw them to the bottom of the floor joists. If soffits end at walls, build the walls first.

Fasten Soffit Assembly

• Snap a chalk line on the floor joists 2-1/2 inches away from the nearest obstruction and parallel to the wall.
• Position the assembly along the chalk line and fasten it to the bottom of the floor joists with 3-inch screws.

Install Lookouts

• String a line even with the inside edge of the plywood and use it to determine exact lookout lengths.
• Nail them in place every 16 inches.

Install Backer Boards

• Mark both sides of partition walls with chalk lines, then center and nail 2×6 backer boards in walls that they join.
  • Note: The chalk lines keep you from building walls on the wrong side of single lines!

Cut the Plates

• Mark door openings on the floor to avoid putting glue under doors.
• Frame partition walls as you did the outside walls, installing blocking between joists wherever it’s needed.
• Add 2×6 backers on walls that meet partitions.
  • Pro tip: Before you tie the partition walls to exterior stud walls (non-masonry, without foam), staple 2-foot wide strips of polyethylene over the 2×6 backers. That way you’ll be able to seal this type of outside wall with a continuous moisture barrier in cooler climate zones.

Assemble the Wall

• Frame the door openings 2-1/2 inches higher and 2-1/2 inches wider than the door you’re installing.
  • Note: This “rough opening” allows adequate space for the door plus its frame.
• Use a regular stud plus a “trimmer” on each side of the door.
  • Pro tip: If you have low headroom, you may need to cut your doors down or special-order shorter ones. Remember to allow overhead space for the door trim. Trim that’s either missing or ripped too narrow over doors with inadequate clearance will really detract from the appearance of the room.
• Partially cut through the underside of the bottom plate at the edges of the door rough opening to make removal easier later on.

Frame Around Valves

• Frame around ceiling valves with 2x2s.
  • Pro tip: If you need future access to anything, just frame around it and cut out the opening when you drywall. Then, after taping and painting, screw a “return air” grate over the opening to conceal it but still have access. Return air grates are available in various sizes for about $5 at home centers. Check the sizes of available grates and frame the accesses slightly smaller.

Frame Around Plumbing Pipes

• Frame around protruding plumbing with 2x6s nailed to adjoining studs.
• Frame clean-outs for an access panel.

Install Furring Boards

• Use either 2x4s or 2x2s running perpendicular to the joists to add 1-1/2 inches of dead space so you can drywall over the top of everything.
• Be sure to run all the wiring and other things you might want before hanging the drywall.
  • Note: Sometimes furring down part of or the entire ceiling is the best way to bury surface-mounted pipes or wires. 
  • Pro tip: If you have a lot of deep projections from the ceiling or you need a lot of access, consider installing a suspended ceiling rather than drywalling. The downside is that you’ll lose at least a few additional inches of ceiling height.
• Finish round steel columns by framing around them with 2x4s. You can then face the framing with drywall or decorative wood as shown in the opening photo. Get to know the cost of finishing a basement.

Check out these wall framing tips for new construction and also find out whether you can add a basement to a house.

The post How to Finish a Basement appeared first on Family Handyman.

The Hedgehog spiral featherboard is a tried-and-tested way to make cuts straight and keep you safe when ripping through wood. With just the right amount of flex, this featherboard is extremely effective at holding boards in place and preventing kickback while using a table saw, router table or band saw. Our behind-the-scenes handyman, Frank Tritschler, tested the Hedgehog for effectiveness, safety, ease of use and durability. Here’s what he found out.

What is the Hedgehog featherboard?

The Hedgehog featherboard gives you the control to cut wood with precision. It makes using a table saw safer and keeps your cuts straight. Not only is it perfect for beginners, but it’s also ideal for experienced woodworkers. That’s because the Hedgehog securely holds the board against the fence while keeping your fingers safely out of the way, preventing kickback.

This happy yellow tool is shaped like a hedgehog (hence the name) and made from strong, flexible nylon to help you glide through your projects like a pro. The Hedgehog’s feathered spine provides one-way pressure to guide the board and keep cuts straight. The cast aluminum miter clamp fits in a 3/4-inch miter slot on your table saw, router table or band saw. Hedgehog also offers a 5/8-inch miter clamp.

The featherboard has a single pivot point and sets up quickly. It can also be used vertically if your fence has a slot, making it a versatile tool. Plus, when you need to work on the other side of the table, you’re able to reverse the Hedgehog. Simply remove the knob and flip the hardware to the opposite side. It’s that easy!

On Sale

VIA MERCHANT

Lowest Price in 30 days

We Tried It

Hedgehog Featherboard

Keep your cuts straight and yourself safe with the Hedgehog spiral featherboard. Get the precision and control you need to saw through your next woodworking project with ease.

34.999% OFF$32 at Amazon

Shop on Tool Nut

Hedgehog Featherboard Features

Experienced woodworkers call this hedgehog-shaped gadget genius. The single knob is not only fast, it’s also adaptable for stacking featherboards to cut taller boards with maximum stability. The Hedgehog quickly adjusts to different board widths with the turn of the knob. The minimum reach from the center point is 1 9/16-inches, and the maximum is 6 3/4 inches. If you’re cutting long runs, add more than one Hedgehog to your table for increased stability and control.

We Ripped Through a Variety of Boards to Test the Hedgehog Featherboard

Even though I come from a long line of skilled carpenters and handymen, the last time I attempted to use any power saw was when I took woodworking in 4-H—too long ago to remember the safety rules of power tools. I deferred to the experts in our Family Handyman workshop to let our pros test the Hedgehog spiral featherboard.

We easily attached the Hedgehog featherboard to the 3/4-inch miter slot on the table saw. We used varying widths of wood while working on the table saw, as well as the band saw and router table. The Hedgehog was easy to adjust, putting just the right amount of pressure against the board to hold it in place. The operation was smooth and seamless and, as a result, the cuts were precise and straight. The Hedgehog is like having a third hand to hold the board in place while letting the saw rip through the wood.

Although we didn’t have the 5/8-inch miter clamp or the stacking adapter for thicker wood, the Hedgehog performed on par with pricier magnetic featherboards for most tasks.

Pros

• Easy to use
• Protects against kickback
• Ensures straight cuts with one-way pressure
• Reversible
• Stackable for taller boards
• Quick one-knob setup
• Durable nylon construction
• Lightweight and portable
• Affordable

Cons

• May not perform well with uneven boards

FAQ

How do you use a Hedgehog featherboard?

First, insert the miter clamp into the miter slot on the table. Next, position the board firmly against the fence. Move the Hedgehog 2 inches ahead of the saw blade, then rotate the featherboard so that its fingers are flexed to apply pressure to the board. Lastly, tighten the knob. The featherboard guides the wood as you push it toward the blade.

What does a featherboard do on a router?

A featherboard holds the material you’re cutting in place. It applies consistent pressure to keep the material flat against the fence of the router table. A featherboard acts as a safety tool that helps prevent kickback from the saw blade, and aides the user in getting a nice straight cut.

What Other Reviewers Had to Say

Out of over 1,600 ratings, the Hedgehog featherboard has an average of 4.6 out of five stars. Here’s what real users have to say about the tool:

“Great addition to your table saw. I wish I had purchased long ago,” writes verified purchaser, Tommy Crews. “Simple to put on and remove. Adjustment for different size wood is so easy. Highly recommend.”

Five-star reviewer, Charles Sandner, writes, “This works far easier, and better, than any other of my featherboards. That is key. If they are a pain to adjust, you tend not to use them too much. Safety tools don’t work well if you don’t use them.”

“I bought this now after being introduced to it by a Stumpy Nubs video long ago. I have now used it for a few days and I really enjoy it. Simple one-handed operation as advertised. And far less finicky than my other straight featherboards,” shares Katie, another five-star reviewer.

Hedgehog Featherboard Accessories

You can expand the Hedgehog featherboard capacity with the tall stacking accessory, which connects two featherboards for a total height of 2 1/4 inches for more control over taller boards. If you’re not already a Hedgehog owner, grab the bundle with two hedgehogs plus the stacking accessory. And if you need a Hedgehog with a 5/8-inch miter clamp, that’s available, too.

High-end magnetic featherboards cost twice as much as the Hedgehog and may not work on all tables. The Hedgehog’s single-knob adjustment sets up with one hand and a quick turn of the knob, making work fast and safe—especially because users claim they’re more likely to use the Hedgehog more often than a featherboard with multiple knobs.

Why You Should Trust Us

As a neophyte woodworker, I consulted our in-house professional handyman, Frank Tritschler, who spends his days building sets, working on remodeling projects, and assisting beginners like me. With over 30 years in the trades, Frank is an invaluable resource when it comes to tools. He kindly showed me the types of featherboards in the workshop, and happily tried the Hedgehog spiral featherboard.

Final Verdict

We were impressed with the effectiveness, durability and ease of use of the Hedgehog featherboard. This $35 tool is a must-have item in any workshop. In fact, having two Hedgehogs on hand isn’t a bad idea for taller or longer boards. Even though Frank uses an expensive magnetic featherboard for most of his work, he highly recommends the Hedgehog for entry-level woodworkers and contractors on the go. It’s lightweight, easy to operate and has the right amount of flex to keep cuts straight. The single-handed adjustability makes using this featherboard fast and simple.

Where to Buy the Hedgehog Featherboard

Keep yourself safe and your cuts straight with the best featherboard for under $35. Pick up your Hedgehog featherboard (and accessories) at Amazon and Tool Nut and glide through your projects with ease and precision.

On Sale

Lowest Price in 30 days

We Tried It

Hedgehog Featherboard

Keep your cuts straight and yourself safe with the Hedgehog spiral featherboard. Get the precision and control you need to saw through your next woodworking project with ease.

34.999% OFF$32 at Amazon

Shop on Tool Nut

The post We Tried the Hedgehog Featherboard for Straight (and Safe) Cuts on the Table Saw appeared first on Family Handyman.

On Sale

FAMILY HANDYMAN

If you’re looking for an alternative to your cumbersome pneumatic nailer and compressor, look no further. A contractor favorite, the DeWalt 18-gauge cordless brad nailer, features a brushless motor and is compatible with other DeWalt tools with 20-volt batteries. This straight shooter drives nails from 5/8 inches to 2 1/8 inches.

The micro nose improves sight lines and ensures a precision hit while the tool-free jam release and depth adjustment dial make quick work of your job. The intuitive design of the low-nail lockout prevents dry firing, and the nails are clearly visible in the cartridge. Plus, the DeWalt has onboard lights to indicate low battery or jams.

The Dewalt is capable of single fire or sequential bump fire with the flip of a switch. This finish nailer drove 2-inch brads consistently into solid oak and worked perfectly in our testing. This 18-gauge model weighs in at 10.25 pounds, so it’s heavier than most, but if you’re after long-lasting performance and trouble-free operation, the DeWalt delivers. This best-in-class option comes highly recommended by professionals and DIYers alike.

This kit includes the tool, charger, battery and branded carrying bag, but the tool is also sold separately if you already own the DeWalt 20-volt battery and charger.

On Sale

FAMILY HANDYMAN

Best Budget

Ryobi Airstrike Cordless Brad Nailer

Shop at Home Depot

Shop at Walmart

199.009% OFF$181.99 at Amazon

If you’re looking for a lightweight brad nailer that won’t break the bank, the Ryobi Airstrike is a quality option at only 7 pounds. The Ryobi 18-gauge nailer accommodates 5/8-inch to 2-inch nails and drives 1,900 nails on a single charge. This model performed well and has all the features of more expensive nailers. It uses Ryobi’s One+ battery, which is helpful if you own other tools using the same battery platform.

Like the DeWalt, this model features a light-emitting diode (LED) work light and tool-free jam release. The adjustable air pressure dial is handy for fine-tuning brad depth. O’Donnell adds,  “I have only used this on one occasion, though my father-in-law, who installs flooring for a living, uses his Ryobi cordless nailer on nearly every job and likes it.”

On Sale

FAMILY HANDYMAN

Lowest Price in 30 days

Best Cordless for Small and Fragile Trim

Craftsman 23-Gauge Pin Nailer

Shop at Lowe's

229.0022% OFF$179 at Amazon

Shop at Ace Hardware

When you need a precision trim nailer for your carpentry projects, O’Donnell recommends the Craftsman 23-gauge cordless pin nailer. This compact unit gets into tight spaces and doesn’t mar the wood. According to our testing, it can shoot over 1,100 nails on a single charge.

O’Donnell was more than impressed with the performance of the Craftsman and says, “My main criticism of cordless nailers has always been how many nails I could shoot per battery and how likely they were to jam. Using this criteria, I have consistently had the most success with DeWalt cordless nailers, though I was pleasantly surprised when I tested the Craftsman 23-gauge micro pinner.”

This pin nailer accommodates pin nails from 5/8-inch to 1-3/8-inch, has a brushless motor for maintenance-free longevity and only weighs 4 pounds. And on the rare occasion that this tool would create a jam, it’s equipped with a tool-free jam release.

FAMILY HANDYMAN

Best with Framing Nailer Service Agreement

Ridgid 16-Gauge Hyperdrive Finish Nailer

Shop at Home Depot

$279.99 at Amazon

This 16-gauge Ridgid Hyperdrive framing nailer had the strength to drive 2-1/2-inch nails through drywall to hit the studs. If you appreciate longevity in a tool and a company that stands behind their products, this is the best cordless brad nailer for you. This is a ruggedly built tool with the advantage of Ridgid’s lifetime service agreement. Imagine free seals, pistons and driver blades for life.

We like the transparent magazine cover and the two styles of no-mar tips that Ridgid supplies, so you can choose your favorite. You’ll save time and frustration without pulling out additional tools to adjust the depth drive or power adjustment or clear a jam. Easily select between the contact actuation or single sequential actuation mode.

At 6.6 pounds, this 18-volt Ridgid finish nailer easily sinks nails from 3/4 inches to 2 1/2 inches. It fires up to 1,450 nails per charge with the 4.0 amp-hours (Ah) battery (charger sold separately).

On Sale

VIA MERCHANT

Best for Tight Spaces

DeWalt 16-Gauge Angled Finish Nailer

419.0010% OFF$378 at Amazon

Shop at Home Depot

If you’re looking for a lightweight, heavy-duty cordless finish nailer to get into those hard-to-reach corners and tight spaces, O’Donnell recommends the 16-gauge DeWalt angled finish nailer. It’s compact and easy to maneuver, weighing in at only 6 pounds. He adds, “Because of my cabinetmaker and trim carpenter background, I tend to utilize my 18-gauge brad nailer more often. Even so, I’ve used my 16-gauge finish nailer countless times when I’m installing thick, hardwood trim, like baseboards, or if I’m dealing with an excessively crooked wall and need more holding power.”

This 20-volt machine is ideal for installing crown molding or baseboards. Like the 18-gauge straight DeWalt nailer, this angled finish nailer offers tool-free stall release, depth adjustment, jam release and a selectable trigger for sequential firing. It powers through the job with precision using 1-1/4-inch to 2-1/2-inch nails. With a 110-nail capacity, you’ll finish the job before you know it.

On Sale

FAMILY HANDYMAN

Lowest Price in 30 days

Best Quick-Response

Senco Fusion F-18XP Cordless Brad Nailer

Shop at Ace Hardware

449.0018% OFF$366.10 at Amazon

Senco uses a sealed aluminum drive cylinder in conjunction with a motor to drive the brads. This results in good power and almost instantaneous response. We like the balance and feel of this tool, which weighs 6.6 pounds.

If you’re looking for efficiency, another standout feature of the Senco F-18XP is the patented instant shot design for smooth, consistent operation and no ramp-up time. If sequential firing is important for your needs, this may be your best choice, thanks to the quick trigger adjustment and lack of lag time. Like other 18-gauge brad nailers, Senco accommodates 5/8-inch to 2-1/8-inch nails with a 110-nail capacity and a dry-fire lockout. The F-18XP shoots 650 fasteners per charge and takes 60 minutes to fully charge the battery when depleted.

Grab the complete kit, including the tool, battery, charger and tote bag, for your next project and look like a pro.

On Sale

VIA MERCHANT

Best Fuel-Cell

Paslode 18-Gauge Straight Brad Nailer

339.007% OFF$315 at Amazon

Shop at Home Depot

Shop at Lowe's

This cordless brad nailer is in a class of its own. Paslode pioneered cordless nail guns with its fuel-powered nailers. They contain a canister of fuel that provides the driving force when a small amount of fuel is ignited in a cylinder. The advantage of this design is that the battery can be small and light because its main function is to provide ignition for the fuel. These nailers are very powerful, but they have some drawbacks. Mainly, exhaust fumes smell bad, and you have to buy replacement fuel canisters.

The gas-fuel technology is sort of old-school, but it’s tried and true. In our test, this tool was the lightest at 4.5 pounds and felt the most comfortable. If you’re willing to shoulder the additional cost of fuel canisters and put up with the faint smell of exhaust, put this gun at the top of your list. Even more impressive is that this Paslode nailer can shoot up to 12,000 nails per charge for minimal downtime. You’ll love the maneuverability and precision of this 18-gauge brad nailer for fine-trim projects, and with its lightweight design, you’ll experience less fatigue.

On Sale

VIA MERCHANT

Best Contractor-Grade

Milwaukee M18 Fuel Cordless Brad Nailer

Shop at Home Depot

499.9935% OFF$324.80 at Amazon

It’s no wonder that you’ll find this brad nailer on professional job sites. If you’re in search of the performance of a pneumatic brad nailer without the hassle of the cords and compressor, the Milwaukee M18 Fuel is a reliable choice. The brushless motor of this battery-powered tool means you’ll spend less time maintaining this 18-gauge cordless nailer. Milwaukee uses sealed compression nitrogen to help power this nailer without needing cartridges. As a result, it fires three nails per second with zero ramp-up time.

This tool has a high-quality feel, from the sleek, compact body to the precision brad-depth adjuster. The nailer responds instantly and performed well in our testing. Our only gripe is that the jam-release lever occasionally obscures the view of the tip.

This M18 weighs 6.3 pounds and is outfitted with three non-marring nose pads, dry-fire lockout, sequential firing, adjustable drive depth and a 110-nail capacity magazine. It’s a reliable work partner with a five-year warranty on the tool and a two-year battery warranty.

FAMILY HANDYMAN

Best DIY

Porter-Cable Max Cordless Brad Nailer Kit

$209.99 at Amazon

Shop at Ace Hardware

Shop at Walmart

Porter-Cable is one of those brands that professional woodworkers rely on, and this 18-gauge straight brad nailer is no exception. We like the weight and balance of this nailer, and it drives brads consistently without a problem. It scored high marks for precise alignment with clear sight lines to the tip. The only downside is the lack of a dry-fire lockout to prevent firing when there are no nails in the magazine, but it’s easy to see your nail supply in the cartridge. That aside, the Porter-Cable has an adjustable depth drive dial and easy-to-read gauge, tool-free jam release, stahl release and safety lock.

This tool weighs 5.9 pounds, and customers find it comfortable to use and ergonomically balanced. Expect to shoot 1,300 nails before you need to charge the 20-volt battery. Compared to the higher-priced models we tested, the Porter-Cable lacks bump firing and features like a dry-fire lockout, but this is a solid tool that’ll make your projects run smoother. 

When you want the perfect finish, Porter-Cable nails it. If you’re new to Porter-Cable tools, be sure to pick up this kit with the battery and charger included.

On Sale

VIA MERCHANT

Best for Precise Nail Placement

Makita XBN01Z Cordless Brad Nailer

224.959% OFF$204.13 at Amazon

Shop at Home Depot

Makita loyalists love the performance, quality and durability of their saws and drills and find that the brad nailers perform equally as well. This Makita 18-gauge cordless brad nailer is great for DIY projects, especially if you own compatible battery-powered Makita tools. It accommodates nails from 5/8 of an inch to 2 inches and drives up to 1,000 nails on a single charge using the 18-volt 5.0 Ah battery.

Makita offers features like the easy-to-access adjustable drive depth dial, dry-fire lockout and contact or sequential nailing on this tool. In our testing, we love how easy it is to see the tip, aiding in accurate brad placement. But the shape of this nailer gives it a back-heavy feel that we found uncomfortable at 7.32 pounds. This is the only gun requiring a tool to remove the nose to clear jams. Even though Makita is a brand that professionals rely on, if you’ll be using this on a daily basis for long periods, you might want to consider a more comfortable option.

What to Look for When Buying a Cordless Brad Nailer

Before making your decision on which cordless brad nailer is best for your shop, consider these factors:

Tool Weight 

If you’re installing crown molding overhead, a few extra pounds could make the difference between aching shoulders and a pain-free job. Out of the nailers we tested, the Paslode nailer weighs in at a slight 4.7 pounds. At the other end of the spectrum is the 7.32-pound Makita.

Look at the Tip

When you’re installing trim, it’s important to place nails accurately. It helps to have a clear view of the gun tip to install trim with a brad nailer. The Porter-Cable is an example of a gun with sight lines that allow for a clear view of the tip. The tip on the Milwaukee tool is harder to see. To avoid damaging the wood, a non-marring rubber or silicone tip is important for fine woodworking.

Drive Depth

Having an adjustable depth drive is also important for protecting the wood. This feature allows you to adjust for the hardness of the wood and drive nails to the perfect level for your project. Nowadays, the depth drive adjustment is easily accessible with a tool-free dial on the machine’s body.

Dry-Fire Lockout

Many of these nailers have a dry-fire lockout feature that prevents the gun from firing when there are no brads. Without this feature, you could keep on nailing without realizing that the gun had run out of fasteners, wasting time and energy. Most of the guns have a small window in the nail cover with some means of signaling that the brads are running low. We like Ridgid’s transparent cover that shows at a glance how many brads are left and what length they are.

Sequential Firing

In single-fire mode, the trigger needs to be released between shots. Switching to sequential firing allows the trigger to be held down to “bump-fire” brads by just pressing the nose of the nailer against the workpiece. Be aware of this feature, but don’t let it drive an entire buying decision. Bump firing isn’t critical to most trim carpentry or woodworking.

Clearing Jams

In the past, you may have had to disassemble the tool to clear jams. Many newer models have quick-release mechanisms to clear jams quickly. Tool-free jam release is a term you will see when shopping for a user-friendly brad nailer.

Stall Release Feature

Occasionally, the driver in these brad nailers will get stuck. A few tools have a stall release lever to reset the driver. Other tools instruct you to remove and then replace the battery. Then, you press the nose against a scrap of wood and pull the trigger to reset the driver. Be sure to read this section of your instruction manual to see how your tool works.

How We Found the Best Cordless Brad Nailers

Our team of Family Handyman pros tested these brad nailers and have used many of them on their personal and professional building projects. The majority of brad nailers we tested are 18-gauge models, the most versatile brad nailers. To see how these battery-powered brad nailers performed under adverse conditions, we drove hundreds of 2-inch brads into 2-1/4-inch solid oak. Then, we tested in real-world conditions by nailing oak casing to an oak jamb.

You’ll probably never have to drive a 2-inch brad into solid oak—even some conventional nailers can’t do that. But hey, we thought it would be an interesting test. The Makita and Ryobi nailers were the only ones that struggled with this task, but every model we tried is capable of driving 1-1/2-inch brads through 3/4-inch oak into a pine jamb, which is (probably) the most difficult nailing job you’ll encounter in normal circumstances.

In our testing, we had very few brads get jammed in the tip of the tool. But when this does happen, it’s nice to be able to clear the tip without tools. All of the brad nailers, except Makita, have tool-free jam clearing. On most tools, you release a latch on the front to access the jammed brad. You just release the nail clip cover to access a jam on the Milwaukee tool.

Most of the nailers we tested use the motor to compress air in a cylinder. The compressed air pushes a piston that drives the brads. While the Paslode uses a cartridge of ignited fuel in addition to battery power, DeWalt and Porter-Cable have taken a different approach from the two methods above. In their nailers, a spinning flywheel provides the driving force. To ensure rapid firing, a few of these nailers rev up as soon as you press the nose to the workpiece.

Other than the significantly lighter weight of the Paslode, we didn’t find any advantage of one technology over the other. The flywheel models have a split-second delay, but it’s not bother­­­some. Regardless of the tech behind them, every model drove brads well enough to install standard trim.

FAQ

What’s better: a 16-gauge or 18-gauge brad nailer?

The 16-gauge model will drive longer nails for stronger fastening, while an 18-gauge brad nailer is meant for finer trim and carpentry work. “As with any fastener, the length is determined by its application,” says O’Donnell. “When working with trim between 3/4-inch and 1/2-inch thick, I always use brad nails between 1-1/2 and 2 inches in length.”

“In the last decade, cordless brad nailers have come a long way,” O’Donnell continues. “For large jobs, like framing, I still prefer a pneumatic nail gun and compressor. But I immediately reach for a cordless brad nailer for smaller jobs if I am just nailing up some quarter-round or re-securing a flooring threshold.”

Can I use a brad nailer for baseboards?

Absolutely, a brad nailer is the tool to use to install baseboards.

Is a compressor-powered brad nailer or cordless nailer better?

Compressor-powered brad nailers have the advantage of being smaller and lighter, and you don’t have to worry about keeping a battery charged. Plus, you can buy a kit containing a brad nailer, a small compressor and a hose for about the same price as one of these battery-powered nailers. On the other hand, it’s convenient to be able to grab a battery-powered brad nailer and start working without setting up the compressor and having to drag a hose around behind you. If you’re considering cutting the cord from a compressor-powered brad nailer to the convenience of a battery-powered tool, check out our cordless tool guide.

How do you use a DeWalt cordless brad nailer?

DeWalt is one of the most reliable and feature-rich brad nailers on the market. First, read the user guide and get familiar with the tool. Operation of a cordless nail gun is as easy as charging the battery and having some scrap wood to practice on. Get to know the depth drive adjustments on different wood species. Get a feel for the rhythm of your tool, its lag time, bump features or consecutive firing modes. The more comfortable you are with the tool, the easier it will be to tackle your project.

Why You Should Trust Us

Our hands-on testing team works on projects in the trenches each day. These experts have experience with an array of tools, large and small, including battery-powered nail guns. As cordless tools become more popular, we wanted to share their insights and testing results to help you make the right purchase for your investment.

The post These 10 Best Cordless Brad Nailers Are Worthy Additions to Your Shop in 2025 appeared first on Family Handyman.

Don’t Rout the Sides Before the Ends

If you’re planning to rout the ends as well as one or both sides of a board, rout the two ends first.  End grain has a tendency to split out as the bit exits the end of the cut, so if you rout the sides first, the split-out will occur on the previously shaped edge. But if you rout the ends first, you’ll cut off any damaged areas when you rout the sides.

Move the Router in the Right Direction

Router bits spin clockwise as you look down on the router, so moving the router counterclockwise tends to pull the pilot bearing tight against the wood and allows easy control of the router. When you’re routing the outside perimeter of a board, move the router counterclockwise. However, when you’re routing the inside of something like a picture frame, move the router in a clockwise direction.

Hold Narrow Strips With Stops

Narrow strips are difficult to rout because clamps get in the way. The solution is to screw blocks to your workbench to corral the strip of wood. If you’re routing a thin piece of wood, the bearing on the router bit will most likely extend below the piece of wood you’re routing.

In this case, hang the piece of wood over the edge of the bench at least 1/4 in. so the bit doesn’t hit the workbench. Screw a strip of equal thickness behind the long edge of the narrow strip you’re routing. Then screw a thinner stop block at the end to keep the board from sliding.

Secure Small Work With Hot-Melt Glue

Here’s a nifty trick for securing small pieces while you rout them. Start by screwing a scrap of wood to the workbench to elevate your project and provide clearance for the bearing. The scrap should be smaller than the piece you’re routing.

Then apply 1/2 teaspoon of hot-melt glue to the scrap and stick your workpiece to it. Allow it to cool a few minutes before you rout the edge. Rout the glued piece gently; don’t make an aggressive cut or you could dislodge your work. When you’re done, just twist the routed piece to break it free. Then scrape off the hot-melt glue with a chisel or putty knife.

Make Moldings With Your Edge Router

One way to make narrow moldings with your router is to use a router table and featherboards. But if you don’t have a setup like this, try this other method. Start by routing the desired profile on a wide board. Then make the molding by cutting the shaped edge from the wide board with a table saw. Repeat the process until the board is too narrow to work with.

Router Tips

For large profiles, make a shallow first pass. Finish the edge with a full-depth final pass of the router. For very deep profiles or cuts in difficult, splintery woods, make a second or even third pass before the final pass.

• Insert the router bit fully into the collet. Then pull it back out 1/8 in. before tightening the collet nuts.
• Sand the edge of boards before taking your router to them so the guide bearing will ride on a smooth surface. If you don’t, irregularities in the edge on the board will be transferred to the routed shape.
• Press the base of the router tight to the wood surface to prevent the router from tipping. A tipped router will cut an irregular profile.
• Make deep-profile cuts in two or three shallow passes to avoid burns and chatter marks. Set the router depth for a shallow cut and rout all sides. Then adjust the router for a deeper cut and repeat the process.
• Replace your old steel bits with modern carbide bits. Carbide lasts longer and makes cleaner cuts with less effort.
• Clean your router bits with a special blade-and-bit cleaning solution to remove wood pitch. You’ll find blade-and-bit cleaner at woodworking stores.

The post 6 Tips for Perfect Routed Edges Every Time appeared first on Family Handyman.

Maximize Your Hammer Power

A hammer isn’t the best tool to pull a nail, but since it’s already in your hand, use it. Ram the claw into the nail shank as close as possible to the wood and rock it sideways. Then repeat the process, pulling the nail about 1/2 in. each time. You develop terrific pulling power, enough to extract even those tough cement-coated or galvanized nails, without straining your hammer handle or arm.

Because the hammer claw grabs the nail’s shank, this method usually works even when the nail head has broken off. But it has a couple of drawbacks. The edge of the head will bite into and dent the wood. If you don’t want to mar the surface, slide a 1/4-in.-thick piece of wood under the edge before pulling.

Also, a worn claw might slip on the shank and not deliver any pull. And finally, the pulling power can be so great that the nail shank might break before the nail lets go. At that point, either clip it flush to the wood with a side-cutting pliers and leave it, or saw through it.

Protect Those Finished Surfaces With a Block

Shove a block of scrap wood under the hammer head to protect delicate surfaces, like cedar decking. The block also gives the hammer claw better leverage, so you can often rock the hammer directly back on its head rather than sideways.

But beware, this isn’t always the best option. Use this straight pull only on nails that come out fairly easily or aren’t driven deeply. Otherwise you could break a wooden-handled hammer. Although you can yank a lot harder on hammers with a fiberglass or steel handle, you’ll find it’s a lot easier to use a sideways pull.

Dig for Buried Nails

Buried nails are no match for a cat’s paw, an essential tool to carry for all rough framing work. Emphasize “rough,” because you drive the claw under the buried nailhead and rock the handle back firmly. The short claw develops tremendous leverage and will pull almost any nail.

A strong, steady pull works best. If you jerk the handle, you could pop the head off the nail, especially with 16d galvanized nails. You can use it for bent nails too. But you have to put a block under the cat’s paw to develop good leverage or slide your hammer head under it to shim it up.

Drawback: Even with a deft touch, the cat’s paw digs up a divot of wood around the nailhead and leaves a distinct “paw print” behind when you rock it back. It’s not a finish tool.

Drive It Through

Punch finish nails all the way through with a nail set or pin punch so you don’t have to pull them. This technique works best on finish trim that’s less than 5/8 in. thick.

Finish carpentry sometimes calls for more refined tactics to avoid ruining a valuable piece of woodwork. You can pull most bent finish nails with the hammer-and- block technique shown earlier or with pliers.

But if you can’t pry trim off without damaging it, drive the finish nails completely through the trim and pop it off. You can use either a 1/32-in. nail set or a 1/16-in. pin punch (buy at home centers and hardware stores). They are especially handy for releasing window and door casings that have been cross-nailed to hold the miters together.

Drawbacks: Use the nail set for thin woodwork. Otherwise, you’ll leave a fairly large round hole on the front side to fill later. And work carefully near ends, because the nail set can split the wood.

Cut the Tough Ones

For maximum speed, cut the nails with a reciprocating saw equipped with a 10-teeth-per- inch all-purpose blade. It’s ideal for rough work and demolition.

A reciprocating saw can cut through nails in a fraction of the time it takes to pull them. Plus it’ll reach nails you can’t get at any other way. Many all-purpose blades cut both wood and nails, but buy the 10-teeth-per-inch type because it cuts through hardened drywall screws as well. With a deft touch, you can also do delicate work, like reaching behind trim to cut nails, as well as screws and bolts, without marring the wood.

Drawback: Chances are that the blade will pinch while cutting tight spots, so push the saw guard tightly against the wood and hold the saw firmly.

Pull Them From the Back

Finish trim is expensive and worth salvaging whenever possible. If you can pry it off, pull the finish nails from the backside. They’ll splinter the front if you drive them back through. Nippers work well, but so do slip-joint pliers and locking pliers. Simply grab the finish nail on the back side with your tool of choice and lever the nail out. Its head will pull through with little damage to the wood.

The post Pull a Nail That Won’t Budge with These 6 Tips appeared first on Family Handyman.

After putting a range of biscuit joiners through the paces, the Dewalt DCW682 was the clear winner. This joiner offers cordless convenience, especially ideal for those working at jobsites vs. in a shop. The tool runs on the DeWalt PowerStack 20-volt battery (sold separately), giving you all the amperes (amps) you need and delivering five hours of runtime, which translates to 300 joints or 600 cuts per charge. It’s an excellent option for anyone looking to take on DIY projects at home.

The fence on the Dewalt moves up and down on a rack-and-pinion mechanism, ensuring that the fence stays parallel to the blade for accurate joints every time. Some comparable models have fences that struggle to maintain a parallel plane without further fine-tuning, resulting in misaligned joints. While other biscuit joiners can feel top heavy, this joiner is nicely balanced with the battery acting as a counterweight. The cutting edge height is easy to adjust and the biscuit size dial is very easy to use. The dust collection allows the use of the bag or a vacuum hose.

With a slew of biscuit joiners on the market, Listi chose the DeWalt DW682 for her shop. “It has been an incredible tool that I have used for years on hundreds of projects. It is strong, powerful and does an excellent job on hardwoods and softwoods alike,” she says.

What’s included: The DeWalt comes with the biscuit joiner, pre-installed 4-inch blade, Torx key, wrench, dust bag, angled dust port and comprehensive instruction manual.

On Sale

Lowest Price in 30 days

Best Value Biscuit Joiner

Wen JN8504 8.5-Amp Biscuit Joiner

Shop on Walmart

59.9913% OFF$51.96 at Amazon

The hallmark of a great value is excellent performance for a reasonable price, and that’s where the Wen biscuit joiner comes in. It’s one of the heavier biscuit joiners on the list, weighing almost 12 pounds. Regardless, it can handle a wide range of hardwoods, thanks to its powerful 8.5-amp motor, which is suitable for both beginners and professionals. It comes with everything you need to get started, including a hard case and common biscuit sizes (#0, #10 and #20). A removable dust bag attaches to a built-in dust port.

The Wen is easy to handle with its comfortable grip and smooth-plunge action. Both depth and locking knobs are on the right side of the fence, which is nice so you don’t have to use both hands to make adjustments. Your joiner is also covered by a two-year warranty. Overall, this is a great value for the weekend hobbyist or for occasional use.

What’s included: You’ll get the Wen biscuit joiner, detachable dust bag, spanner wrench, instructional manual, molded carrying case and biscuits in various sizes—#0 (10 pieces), #10 (16 pieces) and #20 (24 pieces).

Best Biscuit Joiner for a Beginner

Aoben Biscuit Joiner

Shop on Amazon

The Aoben option delivers precise and clean cuts every time with its 4-inch carbide-tipped blade that spins at 10,000 RPMs. The fence adjusts to 90 degrees, and features three preset depth levels to get exactly what you need. While the cutting depth is clearly displayed, the depth dial can be nudged out of place. This jointer has an anti-slip handle and includes a dust bag to keep work surfaces clean. Ideal for the beginner, this joiner comes with a wide selection of biscuits to get you started along with a hard, plastic carrying case.

While the Aoben doesn’t include a comprehensive manual, there are ample You Tube videos that cover step-by-step instructions to produce seven different joints, including edge-to-edge joints, frame joints, corner joints, offset joints, edge miter joint, and a T-joint where a fixed shelf meets the sides of a cabinet.

What’s included: The Aoben comes with the biscuit joiner, 4-inch tungsten carbide-tipped blade, spanner wrench, dust bag and biscuits in sizes #0 (30 pieces), #10 (30 pieces) and #20 (50 pieces).

Best Biscuit Joiner for a Woodworker

Festool Domino Joiner

Shop on Woodcraft

While not technically a biscuit joiner, the Festool domino joiner produces similar joinery, but instead of traditional biscuits, it uses rectangular-shaped tenons called dominos for rock-solid joinery. You have to have it hooked up to dust collection, as it creates so much dust and a dust clog can mean a broken bit. This means adding an adapter to your shop vacuum or investing in the Festool CT26E dust collector, which integrates with the domino and other Festool products.

When Festool released its domino tool in 2007, it was a game changer. It’s a floating tenon system with a high degree of accuracy and added strength. The tool has five mortising depths, an adjustable mortise width and a pivoting fence for angled mortises. Instead of a circular blade, this handheld, horizontal oscillating router has a spiral cutter to bore the mortises.

“The tenon, or domino, is made from solid birch, sipo, or metal allowing for use in interior, exterior and breakdown furniture applications,” explains Tom Noffsinger, a veteran woodworker for over 25 years. He chose the Festool for quick and precise work flow, moving from varied joints and wood species smoothly and with speed.

Logan Newman, owner of Newman Woodworking, uses this model for mortise and floating tenons, but also to create expansion slots in his custom furniture to allow wood movement. “The domino performs multiple jobs more efficiently and cost effectively than any other tool in the shop,” he explains. “If you’re a professional cabinetmaker or just a weekend warrior hoping to produce beautiful furniture, faster, the Festool is a standout option.”

What’s included: You’ll get the Festool domino joiner, cross stop, open-ended spanner (WAF 8), trim stop, 5-millimeter cutter and storage container.

What to Look for When Buying a Biscuit Joiner

Before making your final biscuit joiner selection, keep these considerations in mind:

• Cost: Biscuit joiners vary greatly in cost. “Entry-level biscuit joiners can start around $50 to the very high-end Lamello models that can top $700, so be sure to fit the tool to your needs,” suggests Listi.
• Power and speed: Ideally, look for a model with 6 to 8.5 amps, and 8,000 and 10,000 revolutions per minute (RPMs).
• Dust collection: Joiners have a small port that sends wood chips to a cloth bag. This works well for about a dozen biscuits, then the port tends to clog. You’ll want a dust collection system for bigger jobs and a joiner that can attach to a shop vacuum (you may need to add an adapter).
• Handle styles: You can choose between a barrel grip, where you’re actually grabbing the body of the machine, or a D-handle style, which is more comfortable, but less accurate.
• Fence features: Joiners have a fence that can be set up to 90 degrees, but you may want to use a joiner that can be set up to 135-degree angles. This allows you to set the joiner on the inside or outside face of a mitered joint. The fence should track up and down while allowing the fence to remain parallel to the blade. Look for a rack-and-pinion mechanism for adjusting the fence.
• Blade options: The 4-inch diameter blade is standard on most biscuit joiners, and is great for the common #0, #10 and #20 biscuits. But if you want to use your biscuit joiner for face frames, you’ll need a 2-inch blade and smaller biscuits. Not all biscuit joiners can fit the smaller blade, because the plunge mechanism has to be compatible with the smaller blade. If you find yourself using smaller biscuits for face frames, make sure your joiner can be retrofitted for this purpose.
• Additional features: Biscuit joiners may include some additional features, like hard carrying cases for easy storage when not in use. Many manufacturers included standard biscuit sizes so you have everything you need to get started.

Why You Should Trust Us

As an award-winning woodworker, I have experience with woodworking, DIY and home improvement. I’m also the owner of a one-woman woodworking studio where I make wooden educational toys and furniture using advanced joinery techniques. For this article, I also enlisted Sarah Listi, owner of Tool Girl’s Garage, a blog and social media presence dedicated to tool reviews, woodworking, renovation and construction. Listi is co-host of the Murder House Flip TV show on the Roku Channel.

Additionally, I consulted with two experienced woodworkers and furniture makers, Tom Noffsinger, a veteran woodworker for over 25 years who has attended Festool training as a serious hobbyist, and Logan Newman, owner of Newman Specials Woodwork and creator of jigs and tools for WeCNCthat store.

How We Found the Best Biscuit Joiners

In 1968, Lamello released the first biscuit joiner and, since then, this tool has been used in woodworking and home projects to offer quick, precise and strong joints. Selecting the best biscuit joiners to test depended on power output, accuracy, ease of use, reputable brands and customer reviews. Our top picks have powerful motors of 6 to 8.5 amps and from 10,000 to 12,000 RPMs. Feature must-haves include adjustable angles and cutting depths, 0- to 90-degree angles and dust collection. Taking all of that into consideration, I was able to dwindle the list down to the very best top five biscuit joiners.

FAQ

What does a biscuit joiner do?

A biscuit joiner is used to join two pieces of wood together using concealed joints. The joiner leaves an arched slots into the mating edges of the wooden pieces that takes compressed wood biscuits. When glue makes contact with the compressed wood, the biscuit expands to make a tight joint, perfect for manufactured material like medium-density fiberboard (MDF) and plywood.

The biscuit joiner can do many different joints, like edge-to-edge joints, splines on mitered boxes and biscuit cutting slots for table clips. Miter joints are another ideal place for biscuits. Using a biscuit joiner on mitered parts is a smart way to add strength to the joint and prevent the two halves from slipping as you apply clamp pressure. I particularly like biscuits for attaching face frames to plywood cabinets without pesky holes that require patching. I don’t like to use hardware in my projects, only wood joints. So when I want to do a panel glue-up, I use the biscuit joiner for alignment. The biscuit joint is used for its accuracy and speed while being quick to learn.

Is a biscuit joint the same as domino joint?

Biscuit joints and domino joints are similar in that they are seamless, concealed joints used to connect two pieces of wood together. However, they differ in the method and type of joinery they provide.

Biscuit joinery involves using curved wooden biscuits made from compressed wood, typically beech. They provide alignment assistance and some added strength to the joint, but they’re not as strong as other joinery methods, like mortise and tenon.

Domino joinery uses a floating tenon system. A handheld, oscillating router with spiral cutter creates the corresponding holes. Instead of inserting biscuits, it uses pre-made, elongated loose tenons called dominos, which are fitted into the mortise. The machine cuts mortises and the dominos act as floating tenons. Domino joints offer superior strength compared to biscuit joints, due to the larger and more substantial surface area for glue adhesion and the mechanical interlock between the tenon and mortise.

While both techniques assist in aligning pieces and strengthening joints, Domino joinery generally offers more strength compared to biscuit joints.

Sources:

• Sarah Listi, owner of Tool Girl’s Garage
• Tom Noffsinger, a veteran woodworker
• Logan Newman, owner of Newman Specials Woodwork and creator of jigs and tools for WeCNCthat store

The post The 5 Best Biscuit Joiners, Tested and Reviewed by a Professional Woodworker appeared first on Family Handyman.

The Keter Folding Work Table holds material in place with an integrated clamping system, so you can cut, drill, hang and assemble projects from start to finish. Its heavy-duty construction makes it capable of handling up to 1,000 pounds, yet it’s light enough to load in a truck and store easily. When the job is over, the portable workbench folds into a briefcase shape with an ergonomic handle.

I tested the folding work table myself to guide you through its unpacking and setup processes, key features and overall use. Together, we’ll see if this work table is really worth a spot in your garage.

What is the Keter Folding Work Table?

The Keter Folding Work Table is a helpful workshop assistant with a sturdy and portable design, plus an integrated clamping system to hold material firmly in place while you drill, paint, cut or assemble projects. You can use this workstation as a miter saw stand, to secure boards for cutting or painting or for whatever projects are on your to-do list.

Additionally, the table features a plastic resin construction, which makes it lightweight and weather-resistant yet heavy-duty (since it supports up to 1,000 pounds). I like that it is designed to fold into a 4-1/2 inch thick briefcase shape for easy storage and transport.

VIA MERCHANT

We Tried It

Keter Folding Work Table

A portable, ultra-compact workbench for DIY projects on the go

Shop on Wayfair

$109.99 at Amazon

Keter Folding Work Table Features

The standout features of the Keter Folding Work Table are the guide rails integrated into the worktop and the set of 12-inch ratcheting clamps that can be mounted vertically or horizontally to secure a workpiece. Made of metal and ABS plastic, the sturdy clamps can be stored flush in the table when not in use. A lower shelf offers small storage for tools or other supplies, like a power strip.

What makes this table so sturdy, you may ask? Well, I’d venture to say the wide stance aluminum legs along with side and center supports that lock into place have something to do with it.

How I Tested It

I appreciate a well-engineered product that stores easily in a cramped space. After trying the Keter Folding Work Table, I had to share it with all my woodworking friends. To say I’m impressed is an understatement.

Set up was a breeze. First, I read through the clear, illustrated instructions and practiced setting up and folding the table. I then gave my kids a stopwatch and had them time me to see how long it took to set up the table. My record was 27 seconds! The “locked” button engages each time I set up the table—an extra safety measure to confirm that the center and side supports are in a locked position.

The clamping system is the feature I use most often. I first tested the horizontal clamping by securing a piece of wood to the tabletop and routing butterfly inlay keys. I switched to the horizontal clamps to glue up a cutting board and use it as a hand saw station. Pro tip: I recommend clamping a sacrificial piece of wood to the existing plastic surface so you don’t knick the tabletop.

While I don’t have a project that needs up to 1,000 pounds of support, I tested the table stability by using it as a miter saw station. The sturdy base stayed anchored while running the saw. I used the clamps that come with it to anchor the miter saw to the table. Let me tell you, this portable work table is sturdy!

Finally, I tested to see if portability is as good as the claims make it out to be. Folding up and storing the table is simple, although the clamps are finicky to fit into their slots. The built-in handle sold me on this work table initially, as it makes carrying and setting up so much easier compared to two folding sawhorses with a piece of plywood for a top. I use the table mostly for light work when I know I won’t be somewhere long. It’s so sturdy and solid that I plan to use it for more tasks like arranging parts of a woodworking project, repair work, paint jobs and even grooming my pet.

Pros

• Comes fully assembled
• Quick opening and folding system
• Sturdy carrying handle
• Heavy-duty weight capacity
• Very easy to set up
• Built-in clamps and shelf
• Sturdy, compact design
• Legs fold into the table for flat storage

Cons

• Legs aren’t adjustable on this model

FAQ

How do you use a Keter folding work table?

Using the Keter Folding Work Table is straightforward. The table is designed for portability and ease of use, making it a first choice for various DIY and professional projects.

As a general guideline, you first unfold the table. You do that by picking up the lightweight table and pushing down on the yellow locking mechanism located on each side. This will release the table’s locks, allowing the table to unfold. Next, pull the legs out from underneath the table surface and push in the center and side supports until you see the lock button engaged, confirming that your work table is secure.

After setup, you can clamp your workpiece vertically or horizontally on the tabletop using the guide rail system. The pins on the clamp slide into the guide rail. Pins in the front of the clamp lock it in place. When finished, secure the clamps on the lower shelf, fold the table by releasing the leg locks and push in the center and side supports. The Keter folding table is now briefcase-shaped, ready to be stored away or placed in a car for on-the-go projects.

What are the dimension of the Keter Folding Work Table?

The ample worktop measures 33-1/2 by 21-3/4 inches. When folded, this workbench folds to a 4-1/2-inch tall suitcase shape complete with a handle to easily carry or lift into the back of a vehicle.

What Other Reviewers Had to Say

Out of over 11,850 ratings, the Keter Folding Work Table has an average of 4.7 out of five stars on Amazon. Here’s what reviewers across the Web have to say about the tool:

“The unique (and patented) folding system provides several interlocked supports: two on the side, one in the center. Those fold into place and lock very easily. The main braces connect the upper and lower surfaces. Those, in turn, hold the aluminum legs in places quite rigidly. The net result is the entire table is VERY sturdy and remarkably stable too,” says five star reviewer, G. Conner.

“This work bench is so useful to me in the garage that it just is beyond anything I could have imagined. Fold and unfolds quickly,” writes verified purchaser Sputnik, who rated the Keter five stars for being a well-engineered product.

“I can setup and breakdown the table in seconds, and it also has a shelf underneath for more space. Included are two clamps, with a molded cutout for clamp storage and an integrated track for clamps on the top for stabilizing materials, this work table is great for any use,” says Tyler Homes, owner of Holmes Improvement.

“The best Christmas present I have ever received. The bench is a perfect addition to my work tools. It folds away to a very compact size, is easy to pop into the van and simple to keep clean. The included clamps are very strong and long enough to cover any job I have thrown at it. It is like having a second pair of hands on site,” writes a reviewer on Tool Talk.

Product Comparison

This model has legs that are fixed in height, which makes it very sturdy, but there are situations where you may need a workbench with an adjustable height. For a little more money, Keter offers another model of this workbench that comes with extendable legs that adjust from 30 to 34 inches.

Final Verdict

I’m a professional woodworker, and I love the Keter Folding Work Table. It has handled everything I’ve thrown its way. When the box arrived, the slim profile caught me off guard. I thought it would be a “some assembly required” nightmare, but it comes fully assembled. I opened the box, removed the protective tape and corner padding, read the illustrated instructions and popped it open. The super quick setup meant I unpacked and used the work table in less than a minute. To use the table, you simply push down on two tabs that are located on the top of the table—this releases the legs, and gravity does the rest. Then, you can lock the legs in place. It’s very easy and fast!

There are high-quality steel and ABS plastic 12-inch clamps included with this table, and they add a lot of value to this work table—especially considering the price. Although the clamp guides are not as smooth as I’d like, I appreciate the option of securing your material in a vertical or horizontal position. The clamps stow flush and securely so they don’t accidentally fall out. You do have to think about the configuration of the clamp in order for it to fit in the recessed channel, but the trick is to have the trigger end just a touch in front of the back bar stop. It would be great if it was a simpler snap-in system, but the clamps are designed not to fall out.

I highly recommend the Keter work table for a flat portable clamping table and as a work stand for power tools. The working table folds up quickly and easily, and the handle (a feature not found in most comparable models) is a major convenience for transport and storing out of sight.

Where to Buy the Keter Folding Work Table

VIA MERCHANT

We Tried It

Keter Folding Work Table

A foldable work table that stores and travels like dream

Shop on Wayfair

$109.99 at Amazon

Count on this folding work table to serve as an extra set of hands for your next DIY project. Pick up your Keter work table at Amazon with two-day Prime shipping or at Wayfair for $110. Workbench convenience is just a click away.

The post Keter Folding Work Table Review: Tested by a Professional Woodworker appeared first on Family Handyman.

What Is the IKEA Built-In Bookshelf Hack?

Basically, the IKEA built-in bookshelf hack is a process by which Martino creates “built-in” floor-to-ceiling bookcases using IKEA furniture. Instead of constructing the full shelves from scratch, she utilizes IKEA furniture, plywood, trim and paint. This saves her a ton of time, and makes these “built-in” bookshelves doable for even the most amateur woodworker.

How Does Martino Use IKEA Furniture to Make Built-In Bookshelves?

Martino starts by mapping out and measuring her space, then determining how many pieces of IKEA furniture she’d need. For her space, she needed 6 Havsta cabinets, 6 Billy bookcases, and 6 Billy bookcase extensions. From there, she simply assembled the furniture, and stacked it on top of each other against the wall. She first placed the Havsta cabinets down, follows by the bookcase extensions and then the bookcases.

To make the arches, Martino used 1/2-inch sanded plywood affixed directly onto the bookshelves with a nail gun. To further dress up the arches, she added trim then painted the entire built-in bookshelf unit with Backdrop’s Saturday on Sunday paint.

Finally, Martino opted to add a shelf over the door next to the built-in bookshelves, and painted the shelf and doorframe with the same Backdrop paint to fmake the built-in bookshelves look even more cohesive. Check out the final result for yourself below!

@rachmartinoIkea Hack for built in arched bookshelves! I love that we decided to go with an L shaped design it really makes the room feel so special and cozy. We used 6 Havsta cabinets, 6 billy bookshelves 3 shelf version) and 6 billy extensions. What do you think of the final look?♬ Do You Believe in Magic – The Lovin’ Spoonful

What Should I Consider Before Trying the IKEA Built-In Bookshelf Hack?

As with most DIY projects, you need to consider both your space and budget before you dive into this IKEA hack. For space requirements, note that each tall “bookshelf” unit will be approximately 32 inches wide, 18 inches deep and 90 inches tall. Regarding budgets, know that one “bookshelf” will cost $328 in IKEA furniture, plus the plywood, paint, trim and nails. Revamp your old furniture? Learn how to paint IKEA furniture.

If these space and cost requirements feel too limiting, you can always try your hand at building a different style of built-in bookshelf. We love these 33 bookcase projects, as well as this gorgeous showcase built-in. Be sure to also check out these 25 beautiful bookcases for inspiration. With the right materials, instructions and considerations, the perfect reading nook is always within reach!

The post Make Your Own Built-In Bookshelves with This Easy IKEA Hack appeared first on Family Handyman.

There’s nothing like the fresh-air aroma of line-dried clothes. And besides all that freshness, you’ll lower your energy costs!

You can build this sturdy, long-lasting clothesline yourself with a few tools and a bit of labor digging post holes. Make your clothesline any size you want.

Cutting List

Make the crosspieces

Cut the two crosspieces (A) from one 4×4 post. A circular saw won’t cut all the way through a 4×4 in one pass, so mark your line all the way around the post. Make the first cut, then roll the post and make another cut. Continue until the cut is complete.

Cut the braces

Lay out the braces (B) on another 4×4 post. Cut the ends of each brace at a 45-degree angle. Again, mark all the way around the post. Make the first cut, flip the post and finish the cut from the other side.

Attach the crosspieces

Mark the area where you’re centering the post (C) on the underside of each crosspiece. Drill two 1/2-inch clearance holes through the crosspiece in the marked area.

Insert the lag screws through the clearance holes and position the crosspiece on the post. Give each lag screw a little tap with a hammer to mark the hole location in the top of the post. Drill a 7/16-inch pilot hole at each mark. Squeeze a little construction adhesive to the post top, then drive the lag screws into the post.

Add the braces

Drill two clearance holes at the end of each brace. Add construction adhesive to the angled faces. Position the braces and drive the screws. Use a speed square where the post meets the crosspiece during this process to keep the assembly square as you go.

Add the eye screws

Drill four evenly spaced pilot holes down the center face of each crosspiece. Drive in the eye screws. You can turn them part way in by hand. When they start getting hard to turn, slip a screwdriver through the eye and finish driving them in.

Set the wooden clothesline posts

Dig postholes about 10- to 11-inches in diameter and around three feet deep. Add four to six inches of crushed rock in the bottoms of the holes. This lets moisture drain away from the posts.

Set the posts in the holes and use a level and some scrap 2×4’s to brace the posts plumb. Mix bags of concrete and fill the holes to just above ground level. When the concrete begins to set, use a trowel or shovel to tool it, making it slope away from the post slightly so water runs away from the post.

After the concrete is set, string clothesline wire into the eye screws.

The post How to Build a Clothesline appeared first on Family Handyman.

The chart below shows the actual dimensions of lumber when it is dry (when wet, it will be slightly larger). This handy chart will help you translate the nominal into the actual (dry). After a while, you’ll get the hang of dimensional lumber sizes.

What Is Dimensional Lumber?

Dimensional lumber simply means that the lumber is pre-cut to standard sizes. You’re probably most familiar with the 2×4, but that’s not the only standard size out there. Other common sizes include 1×3, 2×6, 2×8 and 4×4.

If you’re building something (e.g a deck, framing a wall, etc) you’ll likely want to purchase dimensional lumber rather than spending the extra time getting it cut to size.

Dimensional Lumber Lengths

First of all, you need to know how to read lumber sizes. The first number is always thickness, followed by width. If you see a third number (e.g. 2x4x8), that number is length. Thickness and width are measured in inches, while length is measured in feet. So 2x4x8 is two inches thick by four inches wide, and the board itself is eight feet long.

Nominal vs. actual for wood with 2×4 dimensions

Wood dimension chart

This chart shows the nominal (in name only) and corresponding actual (real) dimensions of common wood sizes like 2×4 dimensions and 1×4 lumber.

Note: You can download and print the chart from Additional Information below.

Additional Information About Lumber Sizes

• Wood dimension chart

The post Nominal vs. Actual Lumber Dimensions appeared first on Family Handyman.

Building sustainably doesn’t always involve new and innovative building products. Sometimes it takes a traditional building method, modified to improve energy efficiency. That’s exactly what we did when designing the framing for our Sustainable Retreat.

We wanted to keep it simple and efficient, so we built double 2×4 walls. This double-walled framing technique adds lots of insulation and removes the heat transfer that happens through the studs. This path to sustainable home building succeeds by using a skill anyone can learn, instead of experimenting with a new material.

Frame the outer walls

Begin by building the exterior walls as normal. Start with a top and bottom plate cut to the length of the wall and mark out the 16 inches on-center stud layout, as well as the window locations with jack and king studs.

On a standard roof with a ridge beam, the layout is marked on the top and bottom plate at the same time. On this shed-style type of roof, we laid out the heights of the walls on the floor to transfer the layout to the top plate and get an accurate measurement for each stud.

Tip up the outer walls

Cut all the studs, including the jack, king and cripple studs for the windows. Line them up with the layout marks and nail them through the plates. Tip up each wall as you build them, brace them plumb and fasten them together at the corners.

Pro tip: When building a shed-style roof, save yourself time and write down the measurement for the studs so you don’t have to re-measure for the opposite side.

Lay out the inner walls

Once the exterior walls are tipped up, cut a 2×4 bottom plate three inches shorter than the distance between the walls. Place it between the walls with a 2×4 block spacer at the ends. Then copy the layout of the exterior walls onto the new bottom plate. Transfer the marks to the top plate, then cut the studs and build the wall.

Tip up the inner walls

We built the end walls first and tipped them up as they were built. We used a 2×4 spacer between the inner and outer walls to position them and nailed them through the bottom plate. We make sure we nailed them into the joist below and not just the subfloor whenever possible.

Framing the window openings

Transferring the stud layout from the outer to the inner wall makes it easy to match the window openings. But at the windows, not all the framing parts need to be transferred to the inner wall.

Since the outer wall bears the weight of the roof, it will contain any headers, jack and king studs, reducing the amount of framing material needed and maximizing the insulation space of the inner wall.

Insulation installation

After sheathing and roof installation, the final step to making these walls extra efficient is filling the stud spaces with insulation.

We started by filling the outer wall with mineral wool insulation, a sustainable home insulation option, cutting the batts to fit the stud bays. Then we did the same with the inner wall. Lastly, we covered the wall with a vapor barrier before installing the wallboard.

The post How to Frame a Structure Using Energy-Saving Techniques appeared first on Family Handyman.

Whether it’s summer or winter, you don’t need to go to a resort to enjoy a relaxing soak in an outdoor hot tub. For a relatively small price, you can build this hot tub in your backyard and take a dip whenever the mood strikes. Fill the tub with a garden hose, light a fire to heat the water, hop in and relax!

The Tub

I chose a Rubbermaid 100-gallon stock tank for a few reasons.

First, it’s deeper than the metal tanks I saw. Second, the plastic itself is a more comfortable temperature in hot or cold weather than metal. Third, its rounded top edges have a larger radius than the edges of metal tanks, so they’re more comfortable to rest your arms on.

Lastly, you’ll find it more comfortable to lean back against the angled ends of the stock tank than the straight sides of a metal tank.

This tank had molded-in brackets for supporting it on a wood frame. I didn’t like the look and they would have made it harder to clad the tank, so I cut them off with a multi-tool.

Several molded styles are available, some with ridges, others without. For the purpose of making a hot tub, any style can suffice. The process of insulating will need to be adjusted if you go with a ridge free tub.

The Water Heater

To heat the water, we used a wood-fired thermosyphon heat exchanger. This 3/4-in. stainless steel coil circulates the water without a pump. It’s based on natural convection, called thermal siphoning.

Cold water enters at the bottom of the heater and expands. Convection moves the heated water upward, pushing it through the coil and out into the tub. At the same time, the heated water is replaced by cooler water below. So there is no need to wire the hot tub — a pile of dry firewood will do.

You can go out and purchase a 60-foot roll of 3/4-in. copper tube and bend a heating coil yourself. But the copper alone costs about the same as this stainless steel coil I found online and had delivered to my doorstep.

Cut the Platform

Set the stock tank upside-down diagonally on one end of a 4- by 8-ft. sheet of plywood. This lets you get the platform and a tub cover from one sheet.

With your pencil at a slight angle as shown, trace around the perimeter of the stock tank. Cut out the platform with a jigsaw. Cut the cover the same size.

Build Up the Base

Cut treated 2x4s to form an elongated octagon. Secure the 2x4s to the platform with water-resistant wood glue and exterior screws.

Trim the Base

Trim the 2×4 base so that it’s flush to the edge of the platform. Use a jigsaw or a router with a flush-trim bit.

Add Mounting Block

Cut plywood squares to fill the areas between the reinforcement ribs on the bottom of the stock tank. Secure the plywood with construction adhesive and self-tapping screws through the ribs into the plywood edges.

Attach the Base

Apply construction adhesive to the plywood squares. Set the assembled base on the upturned stock tank and center it. Secure the base with 1-1/4-in. screws through the platform into the plywood squares you installed in the previous step.

Insulate the Tub

Cut one-inch-thick foam board insulation to size with a table saw or utility knife. Make kerf cuts in the insulation on the pieces that curve around ends of the tank to allow the insulation to bend without breaking. Attach the foam insulation to the stock tank with hot glue and construction adhesive.

Make the Cedar Cladding

Using a router table, rout a bead on one edge of all the cladding boards, then rout a cove on the other edge of the boards. You can cut your boards to length before you run them through the router, or leave them at full length and cut them to final length after routing.

Attach the Cedar Cladding

Set the tub assembly on sawhorses to make it easier to work on. The first cladding board is the most important. Place the board under the lip of the stock tank. Then use a carpenter’s square to check the board is square to the platform. Attach the board to the edge of the platform with finish screws.

Work your way around the tub, keeping the bead on each board tight to the cove of the preceding board. Check for square as you go. The last board may need to be custom cut and routed again to fit tightly.

Add the Piping

Drill a 1/4-in. pilot hole from the inside of the tank through the drain plug and the cladding. Using the pilot hole as a guide, drill a 1-1/4-in. hole through the cladding from the outside.

Wrap the thread of a pipe nipple with plumber’s tape (aka Teflon tape) and thread it into the drain plug hole. Next, attach the coil to the pipe extension with a rubber coupler.

Add the Second Hole

Thread a pipe nipple onto the upper end of the coil and mark on the cladding where to drill the top hole. Again, drill a 1/4-in. pilot hole, only this time through the cladding into the stock tank.

Remove the board and drill a 1-1/4-in. hole at your pilot hole into the board. Remove enough insulation to make space for the drain plug, then drill a hole to fit the threads of your drain plug and install it.

Attach the Heating Coil

Reinstall the bored cladding. As before, wrap the thread of a pipe nipple with plumber’s tape and thread it into the drain plug. Then attach the coil to the pipe nipple with a rubber coupler.

The post How to Build a Wood-Fired Hot Tub appeared first on Family Handyman.

Introduction

Trying to organize the utensil drawer in your kitchen? You could buy a tray to hold everything, but chances are it’ll be too big or too small. Here’s a better idea: Build a custom drawer organizer to fit your utensils and your drawer.

Project Overview

Divide the Drawer

On the table saw, rip two pieces of 1/2-inch plywood so they’re one inch shorter than the height of the drawer. Cut one to length to fit the depth of the drawer, and the other six inches shorter than the width. Fasten them together with 1-1/2-inch trim screws to form a T-shape. Then position the T-shape inside the drawer and fasten it in place through the side and back.

Make Storage Compartments

Create the compartments with spacers and partitions. For each compartment, fasten identical 1/4-inch plywood spacers to the drawer and the divider using 1/2-inch wood screws. Then cut and fit a partition from 1/4-inch plywood that sits against them. Hold the partition in place with another set of spacers.

Fill the Sections and Customize

Continue to add spacers and partitions to fill both sections of the drawer. To make a wider compartment, cut the spacers for that compartment longer. Keep the long section undivided to store long handled wooden spoons, spatulas, and whisks. Customize the rest of the compartments to fit specific utensils.

Organize Your Kitchen Drawer

With the compartments made, slide the drawer back in your cabinet and start organizing your flatware.

The post How to Make Your Own Silverware Drawer Organizer appeared first on Family Handyman.

Project Overview

If you’re short on bedroom closet space or need someplace to hang your outerwear near the front door, here’s a great clothing rack you can build yourself. It’s practical and stylish, featuring a shelf to place your bags and a nook underneath to tuck away your shoes and boots. You can build this with basic tools and materials found at your local home center.

Cutting List

Fit the Base

Cut four 2×2’s to length with a 16-degree angle on one end. These are the vertical supports (A) that hold the hanger rod in position. For the bottom braces (B), cut two more 2×2’s with the same 16-degree angle on both ends.

Fit one vertical support to the bottom brace, then position the second vertical support on top and flush with the other end of the bottom brace. Fasten the parts together at the bottom with wood glue and trim screws.

Fasten the Top

Adjust the position of the top of the base parts so the vertical supports (A) form a “V” with six-inch legs on the inside. Then fasten them together with a 2-1/2-inch screw.

Mirror the Base

Repeat Steps 1 and 2 to make a second base. When assembling them, make sure the parts are mirrored.

Cut the Shelf Supports

Rip one edge of a 1×3 with a 16-degree angle, then cut it to make the two shelf supports (C) and (D).

Assemble the Sides

Position the shelf supports 8-1/2-inches from the bottom of the clothes rack. Then fasten them to the inside with glue and few nails to connect the bases.

Brace the Back

To prevent the clothing rack from rocking side to side, add diagonal cross braces (E) between the bases.

Cut a 55-degree angle at the end of a 1×3. Then with the sides of the rack plumb, index this angle inside the back of the bottom of the rack. Mark where it meets the opposite leg and cut it to fit. Cut a second identical brace, then glue and nail the two braces in an X-pattern between the legs.

Add the Shelf and Hanging Rod

Cut the plywood shelf (F) to size and tack it in place with a few brad nails. Then place the clothes rod (G) between the sides. It’s up to you whether to paint, stain or leave the wood natural with just a clear coat finish.

RELATED: Do you know what is more convenient than a clothes rack ? A clothes rack on wheels. Find out here how to build one.

The post How to Build a Wooden Clothing Rack appeared first on Family Handyman.

Before You Start

Adding an egress window is a big job, and it’s important to plan your project to meet the building requirements in your location. Here are the steps I took before starting to excavate:

Apply for a permit

This process could take a few weeks. My city required detailed plans of the well, the dimensions of the window and rough opening, the size of the header and a drawing of the property, including the house.

Engineered drawing

The retaining walls that made up our well were tall enough to require an engineer’s approval. I sent my plans to a local engineer who gave me a new drawing with a stamp of approval to include with my permit ­application. If you buy a manufactured well, this step is likely unnecessary, but your city’s building department makes the final call.

Call the digging hotline

When you’re digging, even just a few inches, call to have underground utilities located and marked.

Digging is dangerous if you don’t know where the utilities are. If you skip this step and hit a gas, water, or power line underground, you’ll risk the lives of yourself and others, and you’ll be on the hook for the costly repairs. So be sure to call 811 before your project. The process varies by state, so call a few days ahead of your project.

Requirements for Egress Windows

Here are the minimum requirements identified by the building code: 

• The opening needs to be 5.7 square feet.
• The minimum width is 20 inches.
• The minimum height is 24 inches. 
• The well needs to provide a clear space of 3-ft. x 3-ft. when the window is open.
• From the inside, the sill height cannot exceed 44 inches

Dig the Window Well

Following my plans, I drew the window well location with marking paint. I rented a mini excavator to make the ­digging much easier. It was well worth the $450 to avoid hand ­digging.

Have a plan for the dirt you’re removing; it will be more than you anticipate. We took the nearly 10 cubic yards of dirt to a nearby compost site.

Add a Drain

Once the well was dug and free of loose dirt, I dug a trench underneath the house and fed a drainpipe to meet the drain tile system. The city required this to prevent water from pooling and then freezing against the house, potentially damaging the foundation.

The drain provides a path for water that collects in the window well to reach the sump pump. Once the drainpipe is in place, fill the well with clean rock. 

Level the Base

Use any remaining loose dirt to create a slope toward the drain. Then cover the bottom surface with geotextile fabric and a two-inch layer of clean rock, leveled and tamped. The fabric keeps the rock from settling into the dirt and causing the entire base to shift.

Pro tip: The rock isn’t “gravel” or “class V.” When I call to order it, I ask for “3/4-in. clean rock.” It’s an angular rock free of silt that could clog the drain. It compacts well, creating a solid base for the retaining wall and a drainage field.

Insulate the Footing

My window is 55 inches tall. To make room for the installation, we dug down closer to the footing than I’d normally like to.

Because we live in an area with freeze/thaw cycles, the footing needed frost protection. My solution: Add two layers of two-inch rigid insulation rated to 25 pounds per square inch (psi). That rating ensures the rock won’t crush the insulation. I cut out a hole to feed the drain through, and positioned the insulation in the bottom of the well.

Add Rock for the Timber Wall Base

I covered the insulation with another layer of fabric, then added eight inches of clean rock on top. The extra layer of fabric will keep the sharp rock from puncturing the insulation. Make sure the rock is level and compact it with a hand tamper.

Line the Well

Before laying the timbers, I lined the well with geotextile fabric. I unrolled the fabric along the dirt walls and folded it over the edges of the hole. The fabric will keep dirt from entering and clogging the drainage space behind the timbers.

Build the Retaining Wall

After you’ve established a level base of clean rock, start building the retaining wall. The first course of timbers must be level along the length and width of the well. You might have to tamp and move rocks to position this first course. Each consecutive course will be placed by alternating the overlapped corners.

As the timbers are stacked, check to be sure they’re plumb or leaning out slightly. Fasten each course to the previous one with an eight-inch coated timber screw every foot.

Brace the End Walls

To keep the ends of the retaining wall from falling in during backfilling, I added a length of steel angle against the foundation, on the inside of the well. I drilled pilot holes with a hammer drill and fastened the angle to the block wall with construction adhesive and 1-1/4-inch concrete screws. The retaining wall needs to shift a bit, so don’t fasten it to the steel angle.

Backfill the Well

Fill the space outside the well with clean rock. The rock lets water drain away from the wall and gives it space to dry, adding longevity to the treated lumber. Leave about four inches of grade at the top to be filled with topsoil.

Cover the Backfill

Fold the rest of the fabric over the rock and tack it to the retaining wall. Then cover the fabric with topsoil, maintaining a slight slope away from the well. The fabric prevents dirt and silt from clogging the drainage space.

Install a Header

Before cutting the hole in the wall, I needed to reinforce the rim joist with a header to span the new opening. I used the header span tables in the International Residential Building Code to determine how many 2x10s I needed to add to support the larger opening.

Using construction adhesive and lag bolts, I fastened two 2x10s, one at a time, to the existing rim joist. Each ply of the new header is eight inches longer than the opening to ensure there’s enough bearing on each side of the opening.

Remodeling Challenges and Solutions: Adding a Drip Ledge

I ran into a challenge where our new well transitions to the stucco siding. My solution was to add a drip ledge above the well. This creates an eave over the window, allowing the water to shed in front of the window instead of onto it. It also makes a smooth transition from the existing stucco to the thicker insulation and cladding I’ll add in the following steps.

Add Flashing

The flashing behind the existing siding and water-resistant barrier is vital. To fit the flashing behind the stucco and felt paper, I lightly pried the layers from the house and cut any nails in the way with an oscillating multi-tool. Once I tucked the flashing behind the stucco, I pressed down on it to slope it away from the house.

Fasten the Ledge

I ripped a cedar 2×6 to about four inches wide and gave it an eight-degree bevel. Then I drilled evenly spaced pilot holes on its edge. I fastened the ledge to the rim joist with six-inch timber screws.

Cut the Window Opening

With the well structure built and the drip ledge and header installed, we were ready to cut the new opening.

I measured my window and added 4-1/4-in. to the total height and width to determine the rough opening size. I transferred those measurements to the block wall. Then, donning a rain poncho, ear and eye protection and a respirator, we carefully cut the block. To keep the chain or blade from binding, we cut the bottom first, then the sides.

Concrete Saw Choices

Circular concrete saw

Typically, you cut a window opening with a circular concrete saw, a large gas-powered tool with a diamond blade and a hose connection. These saws need a constant flow of water to keep the blade cool, and require you to make cuts on both sides of the wall. But making the cut on the inside fills the house with gas fumes and floods the floor. 

Concrete chainsaw

We used a concrete chainsaw instead. The chainsaw made a clean cut all the way through the 12-inch block from the outside, keeping fumes and puddles out of the house.

Install the Window Bucks

Once I removed the cut blocks, I filled the hollow cores of the remaining wall with concrete and fit window bucks around the opening.

I cut 2×12 pressure-treated wood bucks to fit the width of the opening and fastened the top buck to the bottom of the sill plate with screws. Then I leveled the bottom buck with shims, gave it a slight pitch outside and fastened it to the core-filled blocks with concrete anchors.

Note: As you’ll see, I set the bucks proud of the block wall by two inches to line up with a layer of rigid insulation that will be added to the outside of the wall.

Flash the Opening

I used six-inch wide flexible flashing tape to create a window pan. I started by covering the front of the sill, wrapping the tape up the sides about six inches. Then I carefully stretched the tape around the corners and the front of the bucks.

Next, I applied the tape to each side, overlapping the tape on the sill. Finally, I covered the top of the bucks. I made sure to adhere the tape up the block wall, sealing any entry points where water could get inside the framing.

Note: On a normal window, the flashing tape folds around the buck and adheres flat to the block. That seals the gap between the block and the buck. In this application, you seal the gap with caulk and ­protect the wood with flashing tape.

Egress Window Installation

Installing an egress window is no different than any other window. Before placing the window in the opening, apply a continuous bead of silicone along the sides and top of the window bucks as close to the inside edges as you can get. Don’t seal the bottom.

Then, with a helper, set the bottom of the window in the opening and carefully tip the window in until the nailing flange meets the window bucks.

Pro tip: I purchased this window at a builders’ reuse center for a little more than $200. I didn’t mind that it didn’t match the rest of the windows, but I didn’t like the center piece of trim. I removed the trim after the window was installed.

Level and Plumb the Window

With your helper outside holding the window, head inside to position it.

First, raise the window a 1/2-inch off the sill and level it with a few shims. Then center the window and have your helper drive one roofing nail in each bottom corner of the window’s nailing flange. Next, place a level against the hinge side and adjust it plumb. Use a few shims to keep it in place and check the other side.

Check the window to make sure it’s level and plumb, and also check that the measurements from opposite corners are equidistant. Then drive a nail in each top corner of the nailing flange. Before nailing the rest of the window, place the level back on the sides. If there are gaps between the frame and the level, use shims to straighten the frame, then have your helper nail the sides and the top of the window’s flange.

Insulate the Wall

Believe it or not, the soil we removed from against the house insulated the basement, so we need to replace it with a two-inch layer of rigid insulation.

I ripped a ­pressure-treated cleat to match the depth of the insulation and fastened it with concrete screws a few inches from the retaining wall. Then I pressed the insulation between the cleat and the wood bucks. I pressure-fit insulation all the way around the window and sealed all the seams with sheathing tape.

Pro tip: I covered the blue rigid insulation with leftover landscape fabric to keep it from showing through the cladding.

Add a Drip Cap

I cut a piece of one-inch Z-flashing to 1/2-inch wider than the window. Then I used a hand seamer to fold the ends down to cover the sides of the window. After nailing on the drip cap, I covered the flange with flashing tape to keep out water.

Add Furring Strips

Before dressing up the inside of the well with cedar, I ripped a pressure- treated 2×4 into 1/4-inch thick strips and fastened them inside the well every two feet. This will allow water to drain away to keep the cedar cladding and the timbers free of rot.

Install Pest Screen

To prevent pests from finding a home behind the cedar cladding, I lined the inside of the well with a roll of fiberglass screen mesh. I made sure the mesh was taut and ­stapled it to each furring strip.

Clad the Well Walls

I used cedar deck boards to clad the inside of the well.

After cutting each piece to length, I fastened the boards to the timber wall with composite deck screws through each furring strip. I made sure each board was level so each course would line up at the corners.

Build the Stairs to Code

I glued and screwed two 2x4s together, then cut one end at 60 degrees and the other at 30 degrees. Starting with the bottom stair, I fitted each one into the corner, shortening each step as I worked my way up the wall.

This city requires each step to be at least 12 inches wide and three inches away from the wall, with no more than 18 inches of rise between them. I added deck boards to the top and face of the stairs to match the rest of the well.

Trim the Window

I used Boral TruExterior boards to trim the window. I ripped them to 1-1/4-inch wide and fastened them on edge with composite decking screws.

Seal the Window

Caulk the trim to the window at the sides and bottom. I used a door-and- window sealant that remains flexible after curing. The caulk prevents water from being trapped between the window and the trim.

I capped the top of the retaining wall with cedar decking and finished the well with a few coats of tung oil.

The post How to Install an Egress Window appeared first on Family Handyman.