Small holes and cracks in drywall are common in almost every home at some point. They can be quite annoying to look at, but the good news is that fixing them is incredibly easy and quick. You’ll need to pick up some spackle to repair these small holes in your drywall. Several types of spackle are available, including lightweight, all-purpose, heavyweight, and epoxy. A high-quality, lightweight, non-shrinking spackling compound is ideal for filling small holes in drywall and even on plastic trim.

I had a few holes to repair in my drywall, and a helpful tip that many people might not know is to use a work light to illuminate the area. When you shine a light on the drywall, you’ll likely discover more imperfections and holes you didn’t initially notice. You want to avoid having to redo the work later, so addressing everything at once is the best approach. I also recommend waiting until the spackle is completely dry before you begin sanding it. It’s tempting to rush this process, but if you don’t wait, you could ruin the work you’ve just done and end up having to reapply the spackle.

Turn on a work light

When preparing your walls for repair, position a work light to highlight defects in the drywall, making them easier to see and fix.

Sand-off loose peeling drywall

It is common for loose pieces of drywall to stick up from a hole or dent in drywall. Use a fine-grit sanding sponge between 150 and 220 grit or a putty knife to smooth the area where the repair will be made.

Remove drywall dust

After sanding, drywall dust will likely remain on the wall. Remove the drywall dust using a clean, damp shop rag, then dry the surface.

Apply drywall spackle

To repair a small hole in the drywall, use a putty knife to apply a layer of spackle. Press down firmly while spreading the spackle to ensure it fills the hole completely and covers the surface evenly. Allow the spackle to dry for one to five hours, depending on the temperature and the amount of spackle used.

If you are repairing a small hole, a second spackle application is not usually required.  If one application is insufficient, apply another layer of spackle and wait for it to dry.

Sand the dried spackle

After the spackle has dried, sand it along with the surrounding drywall using the fine-grit sanding sponge to flush the spackle with the wall.

Paint the drywall

Wipe the wall with a clean, damp rag to remove dust before painting. Skipping this step will prevent the surface from appearing smooth.

Apply two coats of wall paint to the dried spackle, allowing each coat to dry fully before applying the next.

FAQ

What is the best filler for a hole in drywall?

If the hole is small, use a lightweight spackle; use a heavyweight spackle for larger repairs.

Is joint compound or spackle better for fixing holes in drywall?

Joint compound is better for large drywall repairs, while spackle should be used for smaller holes under 1/2-in.

How do you fix tiny holes in drywall?

Apply lightweight spackle to the hole, then wait for it to dry before sanding it down and repainting the repaired area.

How can you prevent holes in your walls?

When hanging pictures on your wall, consider using adhesive hooks or tape. Use a stud finder to locate the studs before drilling to avoid unnecessary holes.

The post Wall Repair 101: How To Fix a Hole in Drywall in 6 Easy Steps appeared first on Family Handyman.

Popcorn ceilings hit their “heyday” in the 1970s and 1980s. Also known as an acoustic ceiling for its noise-dampening properties, popcorn ceilings were both an architectural choice. They made finishing ceilings easier because the texture was usually sprayed on and rarely painted or sealed. Although that day has come and gone, it doesn’t mean many of us don’t still have popcorn-textured ceilings in our homes.

The challenging thing about popcorn ceilings is that they may be toxic. Until the 1980s, the composition of the mix used for the application had asbestos fibers, which we know is considered a carcinogen.  So, although we may want to remove the popcorn ceiling texture, you are advised to use an abatement professional who will get rid of it safely and avoid having asbestos dust flying through the ducts and landing on surfaces all over your home.

One less attractive characteristic of textured ceilings is that they are less reflective of natural light, and we all want as much light as possible in our homes. Popcorn ceilings also have a high propensity to catch, store dust and absorb cigarette smoke — all of which turn into allergens affecting everyone in the household.

With all this said, it doesn’t mean you have to live with a dirty and dingy popcorn ceiling.  It means you must maintain and clean it, but how?  You don’t want to disturb the material yet; you want to clean it.  My first advice is to approach the cleaning of a popcorn ceiling with a process of elimination until you find what works best for you and your ceiling.  Meaning that if one process doesn’t work, try another. I share a few different ways to clean a popcorn ceiling.

Prep the area

Spending a few minutes preparing to clean a popcorn ceiling will save you a great deal of time cleaning up afterwards.  It is likely that household dust and lint has accumulated in the nooks and crannies of the popcorn texture. Whatever doesn’t get sucked up by a vacuum will end up in the air and can take up to eight hours to land on a surface. Lay drop cloths on the floor, keeping ladder safety in mind. Remove or cover all surfaces and furniture.

Vacuum up surface dust

Before you start brushing dust in the air, try to suck as much as possible up using a vacuum with a soft bristle attachment. Focus on not disturbing the texture. Press lightly on the wand and let the vacuum do the work.

Use a chip brush or microfiber duster

Use a chip brush or microfiber duster to clean hard-to-reach areas, such as corners or areas with a deeper texture. Hold the brush/duster in one hand and the vacuum in the other to clean as you go.

Clean with soap and water

Lightly spray the area with a water and soap solution. Adding a few drops of dish soap is all you need. You do not want to soak the area, which may create water stains. Gently scrub with a soft sponge or roll with a clean, thick nap roller to pick up dirt in hard-to-wash areas. Do not rub hard, as this may damage or disturb the texture and push the dirt further into the texture, making the ceiling look dirtier.

Applying water to the popcorn ceiling may make the texture look dirtier by pushing the dirt around, forcing you to paint the surface. Be very selective with this step. Spray the water and soap mixture sparingly and lightly. This step could do more damage than good. Try to remove as much dust and dirt as possible without exposing the surface to too much water.

• Tip: Cut a sponge to a smaller size so it fits comfortably in your hand and can conform to the areas you want to reach.

If you have water stains, paint it

It is unlikely that any of these solutions will remove water stains. To fully remove them, you must paint the popcorn ceiling with a primer and then a flat or matte topcoat. You must understand that once you seal in your popcorn texture with paint, removing it will be much more difficult later. If you want a clean, fresh look, knowing the texture will remain, paint and seal it. This may be the time to consider hiring a professional to remove it.

FAQ

Can you clean textured tiles the same way you clean a popcorn ceiling?

Yes, acoustic ceiling tiles trap, dust, lint and cigarette smoke the same way a popcorn ceiling does. Thus, using a vacuum with a soft bristle brush, micro duster or thick nap roller will be effective.

Is it possible to successfully repair popcorn ceiling texture after damage?

Although it may require patience and finesse, repairing a popcorn ceiling is possible.  Retailers now sell non-toxic popcorn ceiling textures in a can for this purpose.  You will have to test the level of texture to achieve a patch that is not noticeable.  Start lightly and build up.

How do I clean grease trapped in my popcorn ceiling?

To remove grease from a popcorn ceiling, you must break it down. Spraying the grease on the ceiling with a mixture of two parts water, one part vinegar and a teaspoon of dish soap will help soften the grease and make it easier to lift off.  Over time, grease on any surface becomes sticky and adheres like an adhesive, making it very difficult to remove without scrubbing hard.  With a popcorn ceiling, scrubbing hard may damage the texture, resulting in further work to repair it. The last resort to deal with grease on a popcorn or textured ceiling is to paint it first with a primer and then with a flat sheen paint.

The post Clean Your Popcorn Ceiling in 5 Easy Steps appeared first on Family Handyman.

Ahead, a moving expert explains how to properly use bubble wrap and provides insights into how this essential moving material is made. They also share some information about the structure of bubble wrap, which features bubbles only on one side, and the consequences that you can potentially face if you opt to take the easy way out during the wrapping process.

How Is Bubble Wrap Made?

Bubble wrap is made from plastic, or more specifically, low or high-density polyethylene. “Bubble Wrap is typically made by melting and combining polyethylene beads into thin sheets,” explains Ross Sapir, the founder & CEO of Roadway Moving. “One of these sheets is formed over a roller with holes that create the bubbles by sucking air into them, while a second flat sheet is laminated on top to seal the bubbles in place.”

Why Is Only One Side of Bubble Wrap Bubbly?

Only one side of the bubble wrap bubbles due to the way it’s made: the second sheet is bubble-less because it’s flat to seal the bubbles of the first sheet in place.

Furthermore, Sapir adds that the flat side facilitates an easier moving, storing, stacking, and handling experience after it is wrapped around various objects. “This design also helps the bubbles stay intact longer by protecting them from direct pressure,” adds Sapir.

Does It Matter What Side You Use to Pack Delicate Items?

Yes, it does matter what side of the bubble wrap you use to pack delicate items. “The bubble side should face inward, toward the item you’re wrapping,” notes Sapir. This maximizes cushioning and prevents the item from directly hitting the hard surface of the outer wrap.” After all, the last thing you want is to invest in high-quality bubble wrap only to discover that you don’t know how to use it properly, causing damage to your fragile items.

How to Bubble Wrap

Having premium bubble wrap by your side is only as good as how it is wrapped. That said, knowing how to properly use bubble wrap is key. Sapir notes that bubble wrap should be used following the steps below:

• Place the bubble wrap on a flat surface with the bubble side up
• Center the item to be wrapped on the sheet.
• Completely encase the item in the bubble wrap, making certain that the bubbles come into contact with the object to absorb any vibrations or shocks that may cause impact.
• Use packing tape to secure the bubble wrap to your item.
• Double wrap extra fragile items if needed.
• Place the wrapped item in a box with cushioning via packing peanuts or crumpled paper.

About the Experts

• Ross Sapir is the founder and ceo of Roadway Moving. He has overseen the packing and protection of thousands of household and specialty items, including fine art and televisions during the 17 years he has been leading the team at Roadway Moving. He is knowledgeable about bubble wrap since it is one of the company’s most essential packing materials.

Sources

• Facilitiesservices.ufl.edu: “Film and Bubble Packs”

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• Why You Shouldn’t Crush Aluminum Cans Before Recycling 

The post Here’s Why Only One Side of Bubble Wrap Is Poppable appeared first on Family Handyman.

What Do Green Porch Lights Mean?

According to the United States Army Reserve, changing one porch light to a green bulb is part of the “Greenlight a Vet” campaign. This campaign was established to give people a way to show “visible national support for our veterans.” If all your neighbors’ porch lights are green, they’ve probably chosen that color as an aesthetic choice. However, a single green bulb most likely means the residents are participating in this campaign.

Why Green?

The United States Army Reserve explains that “green is the color of hope, renewal and well-being. ‘Greenlight’ is also a term commonly used to activate forward movement.” Given that veterans are often overlooked when they return home from their tour of duty, “the simple action of changing one light to green is intended to spark a national conversation regarding the recognition of veterans.” The hope is that by having a single green light up, neighbors will stop to ask about the light and start a conversation about veterans and their needs once they come home. It is also a way to “‘greenlight’ them forward as valued members of our communities.”

Is This Campaign Year-Round?

The informational poster distributed by the United States Army Reserve makes it clear that the campaign is intended to run in perpetuity. It’s not limited to Veterans’ Day, Memorial Day or any other holiday that acknowledges veterans. Rather, it’s intended to keep the conversation flowing at all times so that different communities can discuss, organize and support their local veterans.

Source

Greenlight a Vet, United States Army Reserve.

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• Why You Shouldn’t Crush Aluminum Cans Before Recycling 

The post If You See Green Porch Lights, Here’s What It Means appeared first on Family Handyman.

Coffee Grounds

At the top of this list of what not to flush down a septic tank is a common kitchen waste item that doesn’t readily dissolve. “Coffee grounds don’t break down and can add a sludge buildup,” advises Shaylin King, a licensed plumber. They sink to the bottom of the tank and pile up, reducing the amount of space in the tank for water. The same goes for eggshells.

What happens if you flush them

If you flush coffee grounds, you won’t notice the effects immediately, but your tank will fill up faster than it should, and you’ll have to have it pumped more often.

You’re unlikely to have a problem if you flush coffee grounds once or twice, but don’t do it regularly. The more often you flush grounds, the faster your tank will fill and the sooner you’ll have to pump it.

Safer alternatives

Put coffee grounds (and eggshells) in the trash or, better yet, use them as garden fertilizer. If your waste management service separates compostable items from landfill, put these items in with the compost.

Antibacterial Soaps

Antibacterial soaps kill beneficial bacteria in the septic tank, according to Omarr Picken, a plumber from Australia, and Ian Wood, a drainage and plumbing expert from the UK.

What happens if you flush them

If you use these soaps for washing and cleaning, and then flush them down the toilet or pour them into the sink drain, you’ll hinder the tank’s ability to decompose organic matter. The undigested matter ends up adding to the sludge layer or possibly even clogging the system.

Safer alternatives

If you flush antibacterial soap, you can’t undo that action, so — since you’re on a septic system — the best course is to switch to a non-antibacterial soap product.

Medications

Flushing medications you aren’t using seems like an easy way to get rid of them, but they also belong on the list of what not to flush down a septic tank. “Medications being flushed down into the septic tank can cause a disruption in the natural bacterial ecosystem inside the tank,” says Shaylin King, who is a licensed plumber.

What happens if you flush them

Medications, especially antibacterial ones, can cause the same problems as antibacterial soaps, namely sludge buildup and clogging. Moreover, the ones that dissolve can flow into the drain field and contaminate the groundwater.

Safer alternatives

It may seem like a lot of trouble, but the safest way to dispose of medications is to collect them and dispose of them as hazardous waste.

Harsh Cleaning Chemicals

Harsh cleaning chemicals like bleach are known for their ability to disinfect, and that may be a good thing for a swimming pool, but it’s bad for a septic tank or a drain field.

What happens if you flush them

“Folks don’t think about things like bleach or harsh cleaning chemicals and often do flush these into a septic system – these disrupt the good bacteria balance that is needed for a well maintained septic system,” advises Yesenia Soto, whose job is to research and develop drain cleaning products. What’s more, when they make it to the drain field, they can interfere with the organic balance of the soil.

The experts I interviewed all agreed that bleach probably won’t do any damage in small amounts, so don’t worry if you flush it once or twice, but don’t make a habit of it.

Safer alternatives

If you don’t have an alternative way to dispose of harsh cleaners, consider using alternative cleaning chemicals like vinegar, baking soda or hydrogen peroxide.

Cooking Oils/Fats

“Definitely avoid introducing cooking oils or fats” into your septic tank, cautions Soto. “This can create a blockage in your septic system.”

What happens if you flush them

Oils and fats don’t dissolve. They float on the surface of the water and eventually flow into the drain field, where they end up clogging the soil and hindering its percolation properties. When the odorous water can’t drain, it remains on the surface of the ground and slowly evaporates, broadcasting sewer smells in all directions. The only remedy is to move the drain field, which will be complicated and costly.

Safer alternatives

Allow oil, grease and fat to cool and solidify, then put it in a container and dispose of it in the trash.

Paint and Paint Solvents

Who hasn’t washed their paintbrush in the sink? By itself, this probably won’t do much damage, but in general, paint and paint solvents belong on the list of what not to flush down a septic tank.

What happens if you flush them

Liquid solvents and water-soluble paints end up in the drain field, where Soto warns they can contaminate the groundwater. She cautions to avoid even flushing acetone-based nail polish remover.

Oil-based paints that don’t dissolve will sink to the bottom of the tank and add to the sludge layer.

Safer alternatives

Collect used paint and solvents in appropriate containers and dispose of them as hazardous waste.

Flushable Wipes

Don’t be fooled by the label “flushable” if you’re on a septic system. “Certain “flushable” wipes, do not break down that well and can cause blockages,” advises Picken.

What happens if you flush them

When flushable wipes don’t dissolve, they can clog the outflow pipes to the drain field and ultimately cause septic water to back up into the house. Moreover, any disinfectants with which they are treated can disrupt the chemical balance in the tank.

Safer alternatives

Flushable or not, put your used wipes in the trash.

Dryer Sheets

My house is on a septic system, and the dryer is in the main bathroom. That makes it tempting to flush used dryer sheets in the toilet, but we never do that. Some people do, though, and that’s a no-no.

What happens if you flush them

“Dryer sheets can clump and cause backups,” says King. Moreover, the chemicals with which they are treated, including sulfate salts, act as disinfectants and disrupt the chemical balance of the tank. Dryer sheets also contain nitrogen, which is a leading contributor to algae bloom that contaminate groundwater, according to Tri County Septic.

Safer alternatives

Put used dryer sheets in the trash.

Cat Litter

Adding traditional cat litter to the list of what not to flush down a septic tank is a no-brainer, but some products are advertised as flushable and even septic-safe. However, Wood warns: “Things like cat litter (even the flushable stuff) can clog up your system or mess with the bacteria balance.”

What happens if you flush it

Even if cat litter is flushable, there’s no guarantee all of it will dissolve, and what doesn’t dissolve will settle into the sludge layer or possibly clog the outflow pipes and cause a septic backup.

Safer alternatives

Save the litter bag, use it to collect the used litter, and throw it away in the trash.

Washing Machine and Dryer Lint

Wood flagged washing machine and dryer lint as additions to the list of what not to flush down a septic tank, and if you’ve ever had a drain clogged by lint, you’ll know why. Lint, like hair, can get caught in pipe joints and provide a substrate on which other things can collect.

What happens if you flush it

The lint that floats can flow into the outflow pipes and cause clogs. Lint that doesn’t float sinks to the bottom of the tank and unnecessarily adds to the sludge layer. If your tank has a transfer pump, lint can gum up the pump mechanism.

Safer alternatives

Throw lint away in the trash.

Heavy Duty Drain Cleaners

Picken cautions against flushing heavy-duty drain cleaners, which typically contain highly caustic chemicals like sodium hydroxide and sulfuric acid. They have the same effect on the bacterial balance in a septic tank as disinfectants and antibacterial soap, only more so.

What happens if you flush them

Alkaline and acidic drain cleaners work by dissolving organic matter, which is great for cleaning drain pipes but terrible for the microorganisms that promote digestion in a septic tank. When used in enough quantity, they can turn the contents of the tank into a stagnant mess. Besides that, they can also corrode metal pipes and pipe fittings.

Safer alternatives

If you’re on a septic system, you should avoid using harsh drain cleaners altogether. Use slower-acting and safer enzymatic drain cleaners. Soto recommends Green Gobbler Septic Saver Pods to help replenish beneficial bacteria and introduce enzymes. Other popular brands include Drano Max Buildup Remover (not the original Drano crystals, which contain sodium hydroxide) and Liquid-Plumbr Pro Strength Clog Destroyer Gel.

Dental Floss

Picken also cautions against flushing dental floss.

What happens if you flush it

Like hair and lint, dental floss doesn’t dissolve, and it can catch on fittings inside the tank and on outflow pipes where it collects other debris and causes clogs. It will also gum up the mechanism of your transfer pump, if you have one.

Safer alternatives

Throw dental floss away with the trash, or check out these creative uses for using it around the house.

About the Experts

• Yesenia Soto works in research and development at Green Gobbler.
• Omarr Picken has been a plumber for 30 years. He is the founder of OP Plumbing Services PTY LTD based in the Sydney, Australia.
• Ian Wood is a UK-based plumbing and drainage specialist who works for Reactive Plumbing & Drainage Ltd.
• Shaylin King is the owner of Mr. Rooter Plumbing of Eastern Washington, a Neighborly company.

Sources

• PubMed: In vitro effects of simulated gastric juice on swallowed metal objects: implications for practical management; (1997)
• Tri County Septic: Fabric Softeners, Dryer Sheets and Septic Systems; (2019)

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The post 12 Common Household Items That Will Ruin Your Septic Tank appeared first on Family Handyman.

Ahead, we speak with laundry and cleaning experts about the key differences between line drying and using a dryer. They even gave some tips on how to determine which is best for your clothes and needs.

Line Drying vs. Dryer: How Does It Dry Your Clothes

“Line drying involves hanging your damp clothes on a clothesline, drying rack, or rope—either outside under the sun or inside if the weather’s not great,” says Joy Ramos, operations manager of Bear Brothers Cleaning. “The air works, slowly drawing out the moisture as it circulates through your clothes.”

According to Mary Gagliardi, a cleaning expert and Clorox’s in-house scientist, using a traditional machine dryer involves blowing heated air through the dryer as the laundry tumbles, evacuating moist air until the load is dry.

Line Drying vs. Dryer: Pros and Cons

When deciding whether to use line drying or a dryer, the pros and cons should be considered.

Benefits of Line-Drying Clothes

• It helps maintain the integrity and quality of your clothes. According to Matthew O’Connor, CEO of NoScrubs.com, line drying can extend a garment’s lifespan by reducing fiber breakdown, so you can have it for longer in better condition. For example, if you have a delicate shirt or dress that needs to be washed and dried, then you’re probably better off line drying it. That said, you’ll want to check the manufacturing instructions printed on a garment’s tag to see what they recommend.
• It helps save on electricity. Line drying requires no cost aside from purchasing a drying rack or a line and pins. This is ideal for those on a tight budget or those who simply don’t want to spend money on something that can be done for free.
• Natural benefits of drying in the sun. “Whites are naturally brightened, and bacteria is killed by sunlight,” says Ramos. “Your clothes also can smell fresher after drying outside.”

Drawbacks of Line-Drying Clothes

• It’s a time suck. Line-drying clothes can be time-consuming in many cases, especially for thicker fabrics and textiles. Instead of taking 45 minutes, a load can take upwards of a few hours to dry.
• Clothing and other garments can get distorted. “Wet laundry is substantially heavier, and when initially hung to dry, can potentially become distorted under the weight of the water on the fabric as it hangs,” says Gagliardi. “This mostly affects sweaters, delicately constructed clothing, and antique textiles.”

Benefits of Drying Clothes in the Dryer

• It’s more efficient. “Machine drying is much faster than line drying except in very hot and dry climates,” says Gagliardi.
• There’s typically more control. “Most drying machines are great at catching lint, pet hair, and dust,” says Ramos. Plus, it works any time, rain or shine so there’s no guessing involved.”

Drawbacks of Drying Clothes in the Dryer

• Can cause shrinking or damage. As you may already know, repeated heating and tumbling, such as that done inside a drying machine, can shrink, fade, or damage fabrics.
• Higher utility bills. Outside of the clothing itself, using a dryer can also increase your electric bill, as it uses a lot of energy for a load.
• It can turn into a safety hazard if not well-maintained. Alicia Sokowlowski, president and co-CEO of AspenClean, also mentions that there’s a safety risk associated with drying machines. “If not cleaned regularly, lint buildup can become a hazard,” she says. There’s even the possibility that maintenance issues may arise that need to be addressed with frequent use.

Line Drying vs. Dryer: Which Is Better for Your Clothes?

This really depends on the type of clothes you’re drying and the frequency. “I prefer line drying (indoors with a dehumidifier during cooler/wetter months) to prevent shrinkage and preserve color of items where that is an issue,” says Gagliardi. “I also prefer the convenience and speed of machine drying towels, bedding, socks, and underwear.”

Ramos recommends line-drying clothes to keep them looking fresh and bright. “It’s much gentler on the fabric, which means less wear and tear, plus it helps prevent shrinking or fading,” he tells Family Handyman.

Line Drying vs. Dryer: Which Costs More?

Using a traditional dryer costs more because you have to pay for not only the cost of the appliance itself but also the electric bills associated with it. This involves the energy required to run and potential maintenance when issues arise.

With line drying, you’ll need to invest in a rack and dehumidifier but those are one time purchases and will last you a long time.

Tips for Line-Drying Clothes

If you’re interested in line-drying your clothes, Ramos has some tips:

• Leave ample room between items to allow air to circulate.
• Turn colored or dark clothing inside out to prevent sun fading.
• Lay delicate items flat to prevent straining.
• Shake your garments thoroughly before hanging them up to lessen that stiff feeling.
• Stick with plastic or wooden clothespins instead of metal one’s since those can rust and stain your fabric.

Tips for Drying Clothes in the Dryer

When it comes to using a machine dryer, Sokowlowski has some tips:

• Clean the lint trap after every load.
• Use dryer balls to reduce static and drying time.
• Separate heavy and lightweight fabrics for more even drying.
• Don’t overload the dryer – having good airflow matters.
• When in doubt, use the lowest heat setting.

FAQ

Can you line dry clothes in the winter?

Yes, you can line dry clothes in the winter, but this depends on the weather in your area. “Warm, dry southern states will find this easier to do than cold, rainy northern regions,” says Gagliardi.

According to Sokowlowski, cold air can still dry clothes, but it just takes longer. “The water in clothes evaporates even when frozen,” she says. “Just expect it to be slower and avoid heavy rain or snow when drying clothes outside.”

Can you line dry clothes inside?

Yes, you can line dry clothes inside if you have the space. If you decide to do this, then Gagliardi recommends having a dehumidifier on standby to help get rid of the excess moisture and humidity.

What are the best fabrics to line-Dry vs. put in the dryer?

Again, this varies based on the type of fabric, size and manufacturing directions. “Terry cloth towels will dry more quickly in a machine dryer, but they certainly can be line dried to save energy,” says Gagliardi. “Sheets and other tightly woven fabrics can be either line or machine dried and wool items that allow hand washing or machine washing on the delicate cycle usually should be laid flat to dry, but some allow tumble drying on low heat.

About The Experts

• Joy Ramos, operations manager of Bear Brothers Cleaning
• Mary Gagliardi, cleaning expert and Clorox’s in-house scientist
• Matthew O’Connor, CEO of NoScrubs.com
• Alicia Sokowlowski, president and co-CEO of AspenClean

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The post Line Drying Vs. Machine Drying: Which Is Better for Your Clothes and Wallet? appeared first on Family Handyman.

The History of Blue Porch Ceilings

The tradition of blue porch ceilings goes way back. Like, way back. It started with the Gullah Geechee people—descendants of enslaved Africans who lived along the coastal South. They believed in spirits called “haints” (kind of like ghosts or bad energy) that could sneak into your home and cause trouble.

The solution was to paint your porch ceiling a pale blue—something close to the color of the sky or water. The idea was that haints wouldn’t cross water, and if the ceiling looked like the sky, they’d just keep floating on by.

Protection From Bugs

Another possible explanation people love to mention: bugs. Yup—some folks say that painting your porch ceiling blue can actually help keep insects away.

The theory? Bugs supposedly see the blue and think it’s the sky, so they avoid nesting or flying too close. There’s no solid science to back that up, but honestly, even the possibility of fewer mosquitoes is reason enough for some people to grab a paintbrush.

Also, back in the day, blue paint was often made with milk and lye, which did repel insects. So maybe the tradition stuck around for both reasons—bugs and bad spirits.

Which Blue?

Even if you’re not superstitious and your bug problems are under control, a blue porch ceiling still has something going for it: it just looks good. It makes the space feel lighter, brighter, and a little more open. It’s calming, like a sunny day, and adds charm to just about any house style.

You’ll often see colors like robin’s egg blue, sky blue, or a pale aqua. They all give off that cool, breezy vibe that says, “Come sit for a spell.”

When you spot a blue porch ceiling, it could mean a few different things. Maybe the homeowner is nodding to a beautiful old tradition. Maybe they’re hoping to keep the bugs at bay. Or maybe they just love the way it looks.

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The post Why So Many Southern Homes Have Blue Porch Ceilings appeared first on Family Handyman.

Experts emphasize that only the three Ps should be flushed down toilets: pee, poop, and (toilet) paper. But everyone has their own thoughts about what “can” get disposed of by flushing. Unfortunately, they might not find out that their beliefs are wrong until it’s too late. A Guardian Service survey updated in 2025 reports that “clogged toilets” is the most common plumbing issue searched over the last two years.

Being clear about what can and cannot get flushed down the toilet is key to preventing plumbing emergencies. Ahead, the truth about what items Americans are frequently flushing down toilets, how much toilet-related emergency plumbing repairs cost, and how to dispose of items that should never, ever go down the toilet.

What Items Are Most Frequently Flushed Down Toilets

The items that Americans tend to flush down toilets are pretty similar across the board. Here are the most common items people are flushing.

Wipes (43%)

Wipes of all kinds are one of the most common items flushed down toilets, but it’s never a good idea. People often flush baby wipes and disinfectant wipes, but even those who know not to put these items in the toilet think it’s okay to flush so-called “flushable wipes.” After all, it says they’re flushable in the name. According to the Guardian Service survey, 24 percent of Americans didn’t know whether flushable wipes were safe to flush, with another 14 percent thinking they were flushable.

To be clear: It’s definitely not a good idea to flush even “flushable” wipes. Yet they account for 43 percent of what Americans flush down the toilet that they shouldn’t. They do not actually meet the criteria for flushability, so they can clog pipes, especially where pipes form an angle. This causes backups and expensive, inconvenient plumbing emergencies. Always put used wipes of any kind in trash cans rather than flushing them.

Feminine hygiene products (16%)

Tempting as it is to flush feminine hygiene products down the toilet, it’s never advisable, yet they make up 16 percent of the most commonly flushed items. Tampons and pads are specifically designed to absorb liquid and when they do, they swell. Obviously, this can cause big problems in pipes and lead to backups. Instead, make sure to have a trash can with a lid in all your bathrooms so anyone who needs to can dispose of their feminine hygiene products properly.

Medications (8%)

Many people worry about the environmental impact of flushing medication down the toilet. However, as FDA environmental assessment expert Raanan Bloom, Ph.D. says in “Where and How to Dispose of Unused Medicines,” “the main way drug residues enter water systems is by people taking medicines and then naturally passing them through their bodies.” Because of the substantial risk they pose to humans and animals, some medications should be flushed down the toilet. Still, this only applies to medications on the FDA flush list. Otherwise, find a drug take-back location or mix unused medications with dirt, kitty litter, or coffee grounds before sealing in a plastic resealable bag and tossing.

Cotton Products (7%)

Cotton products, such as cotton swabs/balls (7%), makeup pads, and cotton balls, are also often flushed down the toilet. Although they seem like they’d break down easily, they don’t and can cause plumbing issues. Again, make sure to toss these in the trash instead of flushing them down the toilet.

Other items that are commonly flushed (that shouldn’t be)

• Facial tissues (34%)
• Paper towels (24%)
• Leftover food (10%)
• Condoms (4%)
• Small toys (4%)
• Pet fish (4%)

Plumbing Repair Costs

Plumbing repairs aren’t cheap, and the sticker shock can be overwhelming. According to the survey conducted by Guardian Service, 57 percent of homeowners are “shocked by the cost of a plumbing repair at some point.” The kicker and the good news, depending on your perspective, is that many of these plumbing costs are related to items that shouldn’t be flushed — meaning the problem is preventable.

A whopping two in five homeowners have had to pay for emergency plumbing repairs due to improper flushing. The average cost of these repairs is $671 out of pocket. However, one in twelve homeowners have had to pay over $2000 for emergency sewer repairs. While many homeowners are able to pay for plumbing repairs with their savings, others pay with a credit card or a personal loan. An important takeaway is that these unexpected, expensive plumbing repairs caused many homeowners to regret not having homeowners or plumbing insurance.

The cost of plumbing repairs isn’t only financial. Dealing with plumbing issues and their aftermath also costs homeowners time. In addition to the inconvenience and frustration caused by problematic toilets, there’s the time involved in finding a plumber, making sure you’re home when they’re able to come, and then being around while the problem is getting fixed. Most repairs take a few hours, but sometimes they can take an entire day or more.

FAQ

How much are major plumbing repairs on average?

According to the Guardian Service survey, Americans spend $671 on average for emergency sewer repairs. Angi puts the average cost for toilet repairs between $200 and $1200. One thing is for sure: Plumbing repairs are going to cost you, but emergencies caused by items that shouldn’t be flushed down the toilet don’t have to happen in the first place. Just stick to flushing only the three Ps.

Why are flushable wipes called flushable if they’re not actually flushable?

Flushable wipes are allowed to be called flushable because there is no legally binding definition of what’s considered flushable. Hence, even wipes that don’t disintegrate well enough that they won’t cause problems are designated “flushable” for marketing purposes. Due to the lack of regulation and confusion surrounding which wipes will actually disintegrate, it’s best not to flush any wipes at all down the toilet.

Sources

• “Orange Water and Sewer Authority: Down the Drain: Yes, to the 3 Ps“
• “Guardian Service: America’s Biggest Plumbing Problems: What Homeowners Are Flushing, Fixing, and Googling” (2025)
• “Power Plumbing Services: 5 “Flushable” Things That You Should Never Actually Flush” (2021)
• “Santa Monica Water District: What to flush?“
• “International Water Services Flushability Group: Criteria for Recognition as a Flushable Product“
• “US Food & Drug Administration: Where and How to Dispose of Unused Medicines“
• “US Food & Drug Administration: Drug Disposal: FDA’s Flush List for Certain Medicines“
• “Angi: How Much Does Plumbing Repair Cost?“

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• The Real Reason Aluminum Foil Has a Shiny Side and a Dull Side 
• Think Adirondack Chairs Are Uncomfortable? You’re Using Them Wrong 
• Why You Shouldn’t Crush Aluminum Cans Before Recycling 

The post You Won’t Believe What Americans Keep Flushing Down the Toilet appeared first on Family Handyman.

I spoke to two water safety experts to understand when and why adding bleach to drinking water is appropriate and what the necessary precautions are.

What Is a Boil Water Advisory and Why Are They Issued?

Local public health or water authorities issue boil water advisories when drinking water is at risk of being contaminated with harmful pathogenic microorganisms, such as bacteria, viruses or illness-causing protozoan parasites, like Giardia.

Elena N. Naumova, PhD, is the Chair of the Division of Nutrition Data Science and a Professor at the Friedman School at Tufts University. She explains that a sudden loss of water pressure, water mains breaks and power outages or malfunctioning equipment in treatment plants are common reasons for a boil water advisory. “In some cases, routine water testing detects the presence of pathogens like E.Coli or coliform bacteria,” she says. “Heavy rains, flooding, or natural disasters can overwhelm water treatment systems and introduce contaminants into the supply.”

The Advisory informs the public that water must be boiled to be safe for drinking. “Boiling water is an effective way to kill most disease-causing organisms, including bacteria, viruses, and protozoa,” Naumova says. The heat from boiling damages the proteins and membranes of these pathogens, leading to their destruction.

How to Properly Boil Water During an Advisory

It’s not enough to wait for bubbles to form when heating water during a boil water advisory. You must bring the water to a rolling boil and keep it there for at least one minute. While most bacteria and viruses die off within seconds of temperatures between 70°C and 85°C, protozoa with protective cysts need higher sustained temperatures to kill them off.

Aria Amirbahman, the chair of the Civil Engineering Department and the Sukhmander Singh Endowed Professor at Santa Clara University, explains that boiling water for one minute at 100°C (212°F) is generally sufficient for disinfection, as the process leads to protein denaturation and, in some cases, the disruption of microbial cell walls. “However, to ensure safety—particularly at higher elevations where water boils at a lower temperature—it is advisable to boil water for up to five minutes,” he says.

Disinfecting Water with Bleach (When Boiling Isn’t an Option)

Disinfecting water with bleach in an emergency is not as drastic as it sounds, provided you follow the correct guidelines and precautions.

Is disinfecting water with bleach really safe?

You can disinfect water with bleach as an emergency water treatment strategy when boiling isn’t possible. This can be particularly helpful if you have a power outage. However, always use the right kind of bleach and the right amount.

“Liquid bleach, which contains sodium hypochlorite, disinfects water by oxidizing and destroying the cell membranes of microorganisms,” Amirbahman explains. “For emergency disinfection, it is generally recommended to add 8 drops of household bleach per gallon of clear water, with a few additional drops if the water is turbid [has a cloudy appearance],” he says.

However, adding chlorine to your water long-term or more than the recommended amount is not advised, as this can lead to toxic overexposure. “Drinking heavily chlorinated water can irritate the mouth, throat, and stomach, and may cause nausea or vomiting, especially in children or people with sensitive stomachs,” Naumova says.

How much bleach is too much for water purification?

It is not recommended to use more than 16 drops of household bleach (containing 5% to 6% sodium hypochlorite) per gallon of water. Naumova explains that the general guidance is to add 8 drops of bleach to clear water and wait 30 minutes before drinking. “The water should have a slight chlorine smell,” she says. “If not, repeat the dose and wait another 15 minutes.”

If the water is cloudy (turbid), the recommendation is to add 16 drops per gallon of water and wait 30 minutes before drinking. Naumova recommends filtering cloudy water through a cloth or coffee filter first, as this removes any larger particles.

Safety precautions

While bleach is a powerful water disinfectant, using it does have risks, and that’s why boiling is a better option when it’s available.

Only use plain, unscented household bleach, and take care when handling this skin and eye irritant. “Many household bleaches are scented, splashless, or concentrated—these varieties often contain additives like detergents, perfumes, or thickeners that are harmful or toxic if ingested,” Naumova says.

It’s also important to note that bleach doesn’t reliably kill all protozoan parasites with resistant outer shells, such as chlorine-resistant Cryptosporidium.

Amirbahman also points out that bleach loses effectiveness over time, particularly when exposed to heat and sunlight. He recommends replacing bleach bottles every three months.

Other Water Purification Methods

Iodine tablets and special water filtration systems are common alternatives to boiling or bleach for purifying drinking water. However, Amirbahman points out that iodine tablets are not recommended for long-term use, and filtration membranes may not effectively remove very small microorganisms, such as viruses, so these methods are best used in combination.

Naumova recommends only selecting filters specifically labeled to meet standards for microbial removal (such as NSF/ANSI 53 or 58). She also points out that filters require regular maintenance and replacement to remain effective.

“Portable UV sanitizers, such as SteriPEN, are effective against most microorganisms, including Giardia and Cryptosporidium, but UV light is most effective when the water is clear and free of turbidity,” Amirbahman says. “Solar disinfection, which involves exposing water in a clear glass or plastic bottle to direct sunlight for a full day, is another effective method, provided the water is not turbid.”

Naumova also recommends using emergency water purification products in order of priority, starting with boiling (if possible), then bleaching (if correctly dosed).

What Not to Do During a Boil Water Advisory

Don’t rely on your kettle to purify your water during a Boil Water Advisory. Naumova cautions that modern electric kettles often shut off automatically, meaning they may not achieve a rolling boil and temperatures required to kill off all harmful organisms.

Also, avoid using untreated water to brush your teeth or rinse your fruit and veggies, as this also exposes you to the risk of ingesting problematic pathogens.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long do boil water advisories last?

Boil water advisories typically last 24 to 48 hours. However, they could last several days or longer if a major incident affects the nearby water treatment plant.

Can I use bottled water instead of boiling?

Using bottled water instead of boiling during a boil water advisory is safe. Having a small supply of bottled water on hand for this type of emergency can be helpful.

Does Brita filter remove bacteria during an advisory?

A standard Brita water filter removes some taste and odor-impacting impurities from water. However, only specialized filters will remove bacteria and other microbial contaminants that are a concern during a boil water advisory.

About the Experts

• Aria Amirbahman is the chair of the Civil Engineering Department and the Sukhmander Singh Endowed Professor at Santa Clara University. His research interests are aquatic chemistry, contaminant transport, and water treatment; email interview, Apr. 14, 2025
• Elena N. Naumova, PhD, is a Professor in the Nutrition Epidemiology and Data Science Division of the Friedman School of Nutrition Science and Policy at Tufts University. She is also an AAAS Fellow with the Societal Impacts of Science and Engineering and Editor-in-Chief of the Journal of Public Health Policy, Springer Nature; email interview, Apr. 11, 2025.

RELATED: 

• The Real Reason Aluminum Foil Has a Shiny Side and a Dull Side 
• Think Adirondack Chairs Are Uncomfortable? You’re Using Them Wrong 
• Why You Shouldn’t Crush Aluminum Cans Before Recycling 

The post Boil Water Advisory Says Add Bleach — Is It Really Safe? Experts Weigh In appeared first on Family Handyman.

It is difficult to pinpoint when weavers first considered incorporating dobby borders on fabrics, but they started being a staple on bath towels sometime after the dobby loom came about in 1843, as its upgraded mechanics allowed weavers to create more complex fabric designs.

Today, dobby borders on bath towels are mostly ubiquitous, though sometimes we notice the touch of class they add. Other times, they can be frustrating, especially on lower-end towels, if the weave ends up shrinking, bunching or fraying.

Suddenly, dobby borders are having a moment, though, after someone on social media made a post wondering what they are for, and the post got more than 91 million views. If you’re curious about the answer to that question, here’s what to know about dobby borders, and why you might want, or not want them on your bathroom towels.

What Is the Strip at the Bottom of Towels Called?

That woven stripe near the edge of bath towels is called a dobby border. The name comes from the dobby loom, on which weavers use a special attachment to create simple, geometric patterns. The word “dobby” comes from the old term for a weaver’s assistant, “draw boy.” Sometimes, a dobby border is also called a dobbie border, decorative border, dobby weave, woven band, woven trim or decorative band.

What Is a Dobby Border, and What Does It Do?

A dobby border typically adds a touch of style to a towel, often through checkered, striped or diamond patterns. But it also serves more functional purposes. Because that stripe is denser and less absorbent than the rest of the towel, it helps towels hold their shape better, keeping them from shrinking unevenly in the wash and curling or fraying at the edges. Dobby borders can also make towels easier to hang on a clothesline and give added durability to towels that get washed often in commercial settings, like hotels and gyms.

“Plus, it offers a touch of design variation without printing or dyeing and often serves as a brand signature in luxury towels,” says product developer Belinda Jacobs.

What’s the Difference Between a Towel With and Without a Dobby Border?

Towels with dobby borders often last longer since the weave adds structure, thus helping the towel hold its shape. However, low-end dobby borders can shrink or pucker if they’re not properly pre-shrunk or stitched. So, whether to buy towels with a dobby border comes down to the quality of the towel you’re buying and your personal preference.

“Towels without a dobby border are usually larger and have a more modern feel, but could also be more prone to fraying or curling at the ends,” says designer Gretchen Rivera.

Do Towels With Dobby Borders Cost More?

Sometimes towels with dobby borders are more expensive because of the additional weaving process, though usually, the difference is marginal unless there are complex patterns or specialty yarns involved, like metallic threads. Often, luxury brands have dobby borders, too, and those will cost more as well.

“Dobby towels often also use a higher quality of cotton, so for the extra cost, you’re getting a more durable towel,” says Rivera. “It’s the towel equivalent of upgrading from flip-flops to loafers: still functional, just a bit more polished.

About the Experts

• Gretchen Rivera is owner and principal designer at Casa Casual Interiors in Alexandria, Virginia. She has more than two decades of experience as a conceptual artist and designer. Instagram: @casacasual_interiors.
• Belinda Jacobs is a product developer and technical designer at Tech Packs Co., where she helps fashion brands bring their products to life. She has 15 years of experience in fashion and manufacturing.

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• Think Adirondack Chairs Are Uncomfortable? You’re Using Them Wrong
• Why You Shouldn’t Crush Aluminum Cans Before Recycling

The post Do You Know What That Strip at the Bottom of Bath Towels Is For? appeared first on Family Handyman.

According to Katherine Blunt, author of “California Burning,” San Diego Gas & Electric (SDGE) instituted the strategy after the 2007 Witch Creek Fire caused $1.142 billion in damages and necessitated the evacuation of one million people in Southern California. She says the strategy “was rarely used after that” until PG&E adopted it after a series of fires decimated wine country in 2017. “In 2019, the company had its biggest PSPS, with millions of people without power for days.” I remember that well: the outage lasted long enough for us to run out of water at my home in the Santa Cruz mountains because the well pump didn’t work. That was an uncomfortable and even scary situation in the oppressive heat and the tinder-dry forest.

Planned blackouts are here to stay, but what are the chances of future ones being as severe, and how should homeowners prepare? We checked with Blunt, Jessica Nelson of the Golden State Power Cooperative and Nick Barber of Prepaid Electricity for clarity.

What Is a Planned Blackout?

Power companies monitor weather reports and institute planned blackouts when dangerously high winds and dry conditions are forecast. During a PSPS, they cut electrical service to homes and businesses within the affected area after first warning residents of the impending shutoff. The power stays off until conditions improve and the power lines have been thoroughly inspected.

Where Do Planned Blackouts Happen?

Several California utilities conduct planned blackouts, but they aren’t just a California thing. “Across the West,” says Blunt, “there’s a pretty concerted effort by most utilities to get plans in place to do this,” although, as Nelson notes, each state has different regulations regarding utility operations.

Following the Lahaina fire of 2023, Hawaiian electric has put a PSPS plan in place. “There was an interesting amount of public criticism of Hawaiian electric for not cutting the power ahead of time,” says Blunt. She notes that Oregon utilities have also followed suit, with Portland General Electric having done planned blackouts in the past.

How Long Are Planned Blackouts?

The multi-day outage of 2019 is not a common occurrence, but it could theoretically still happen. “A PSPS can be of varying duration,” says Barber, “but most tend to range from a few hours to several days, based on the intensity of the weather event and how long it takes to visually inspect and safely re-energize the power lines afterward. The power isn’t turned back on as soon as the skies clear—utilities must inspect every section of the affected grid to ensure it is safe, which in some instances prolongs outages by a day or two.”

Mitigation efforts by utility companies that include replacing outdated equipment and installing switches to reduce the area an outage has to cover reduce the time needed for inspection and, therefore, the overall length of the outage. Blunt says these efforts make it increasingly likely that an outage will last hours rather than days.

What Is the Cost of Planned Blackouts?

Whatever the costs to the utility company, Blunt states that they are not passed on to consumers. Power companies “don’t charge consumers for blackouts,” she says, but they also “don’t owe you if you lose a fridge full of groceries.”

The loss of perishables and other incidental costs of a multi-day PSPS could impact individual households to the tune of $100 to $150 — or more — per event. On a macro scale, BloomEnergy reports that the Department of Energy estimates that the annual cost to U.S. businesses because of planned outages was roughly $150 billion in 2019.

Does the Government Coordinate Planned Blackouts?

While utility providers conduct planned blackouts, there is government oversight. According to Blunt, California PSPSs are overseen by the California Public Utilities Commission (CPUC). After every event, “utilities have to submit a report saying how it went.” Nelson puts it this way: “Each state has different regulations regarding utility operations. In California, all power utilities are required to evaluate and implement the wildfire mitigation measures that are appropriate in their service territory.”

In California, the CPUC requires utilities to have a communication network in place that allows them to warn consumers 48 to 72 hours before a PSPS. The utilities typically use the news media and notifications on their websites, and they may also ping individual customers on their cell phones.

How to Prepare for a Planned Blackout

“Homeowners should prepare for a PSPS by signing up for outage alerts if their utility provides them,” advises Nelson. “Make sure your emergency kit is stocked and phones, devices, and electric vehicles are charged. Have a plan if you have medical or mobility needs or if you anticipate needing to relocate to a cooling center. Contact your power company immediately if you observe vegetation in contact with power lines or broken equipment.”

Barber adds: “For electrically powered medically dependent equipment, call your utility company—they usually have special programs for vulnerable customers to receive priority notification or assistance. If you have an energy monitoring system or smart thermostat, switch off high-energy appliances prior to the power shutdown so that you can prevent an energy spike once the power is back. And have a communications plan — a cell tower might be down too, so a battery-powered radio or other alternative communications device comes in handy.”

About the Experts

• Nick Barber is the co-founder of Prepaid Electricity, a company that helps Texas consumers manage their electricity bills.
• Katherine Blunt is a reporter who covers renewable energy and utilities for The Wall Street Journal. She is the author of “CALIFORNIA BURNING: The Fall of Pacific Gas and Electric–and What It Means for America’s Power Grid.“
• Jessica Nelson is the General Manager of the Golden State Power Cooperative.

Sources

• BloomEnergy: A day without power: Outage costs for businesses; (2019)

The post Planned Blackouts: Why Utilities Cut Power on Purpose appeared first on Family Handyman.

Looking for a simple way to serve plenty of fresh cold, top-notch beer or root beer? Well, how about building a DIY kegerator? A kegerator is a refrigerator designed to hold and dispense kegs. It keeps the kegs cold and includes a system that allows for easy pouring. This system uses carbon dioxide (CO2) to help push the beer from the keg into your glass. Having a kegerator comes with a bunch of perks. For one, it’s way cheaper than constantly buying packs of aluminum cans or bottles. Plus, kegs keep your beverages fresh for a lot longer. They’re also better for the environment and super convenient.

You will need a refrigerator, DIY kegerator conversion kit,  5lb. CO2 tank and a keg.

I suggest finding a used, reliable refrigerator. Some good places to look are Craigslist, Facebook marketplace, and used appliance stores. The refrigerator I found was from a used outlet store and was slightly scratched, so I got it for a great price. It came with a freezer on top, which is very convenient for storing chilled mugs.

I found a DIY kegerator conversion kit online, but all the parts you will need can also be found at most local brewing supplies stores. The kit comes with a faucet handle, faucet head, shank, hex nut assembly, black rubber washer, beer line, keg (Sankey) coupler, air line, and a double-gauge CO2 regulator.

A full five-pound tank of food-grade CO2 is also required. In my area, Truebrü Homebrew can provide full and empty CO2 tanks, but if you cannot find such a place nearby, try contacting a distributor of industrial and medical gases.

Remove the shelves

Remove shelves from the inside of the refrigerator and set them aside in a safe place.

Take measurements

Before measuring the refrigerator’s interior, a decision must be made: should the CO2 tank be located inside or outside your DIY kegerator?

When the CO2 tank is located outside the refrigerator, you have more space inside for larger kegs or multiple small kegs if you desire to install multiple taps. It also makes it easier to change the CO2 tanks. However, keeping them outside has some disadvantages, such as having to drill another hole in your refrigerator (in addition to the one for the tap) and not being as aesthetically pleasing as keeping everything in one unit.

This kegerator was going to be built with the CO2 tank housed inside the refrigerator. Having said that, it is important to measure the inside of the refrigerator and all the components to ensure that you will be able to fit the CO2 tank, the keg, the CO2 regulator, the keg coupler, the beer lines and the air lines all inside the fridge.

Determine the faucet location

On the inside of the refrigerator door, check the shelves and their location. You will want to choose a location to install the faucet that will provide enough space for the shank to go through the door without hitting a shelf. The other thing you want to keep in mind is that if you have a freezer door on top, you will want clearance so the tap handle does not get bumped every time you open the freezer.

With a tape measure, determine the precise location where you want your faucet head to go. Then, place the painter’s tape in that area before marking it. The painter’s tape will keep the material from chipping as you drill through it.

I decided to place mine in the center of the refrigerator, 10-in. down from the top of the door and centered side to side. I chose this location because I plan to install a longer faucet handle in the future, and I want to ensure it won’t interfere with opening the freezer door.

Drill a hole through the door

Pre-drill with an 11/64-in. drill bit, then drill a 7/8-in. hole through the front of the refrigerator door using a bi-metal hole saw. Drill completely through the metal and plastic to have a nice, clean hole for the shank to fit through. Clean out the hole to avoid any debris going into the shank.

Attach the faucet

Assemble the faucet by hand-tightening the faucet head to the shank. Then, use an adjustable spanner wrench to tighten it further. Attach the faucet handle to the faucet head by turning it clockwise until it is secure.

Place the black plastic flange around the faucet shank and insert the shank of the assembled faucet into the 7/8-in. hole in the door. On the inside of the door, tighten the shank with the flanged lock nut using a wrench until it is secure but not so tight that it compresses the door panel.

Install a drip tray

Measure and mark the location of the drip tray to be centered about 10 inches below the faucet spout. Pre-drill pilot holes and use 7/8-in. sheet metal screws to secure it level on the door.

Connect the beer line

Insert the black rubber washers into the hex nuts located on both ends of the beer line. Attach one end of the beer line to the faucet shank and the other end to the top of the keg coupler. Hand-tighten these first, then use an adjustable wrench to compress the washer slightly and make the connection liquid-tight.

Connect the air line

Connect one end of the air line to the nipple on the side of the keg coupler. Use a hose clamp and a flathead screwdriver to secure the air line tightly to the keg coupler.

Take the opposite end of the air line and slide it over the nipple of the CO2 regulator. Again, use a hose clamp and a flathead screwdriver to secure the air line in place.

Connect the regulator to the CO2 tank

Wrap PTFE tape (aka Teflon tape) clockwise around the valves on the CO2 tank. Tighten the CO2 regulator nut onto the CO2 tank valve outlet by hand, then use a wrench to finish tightening it.

Set the CO2 tank pressure

With the tap handle and regulator shut-off valve closed, open the valve located on top of the CO2 tank to its fully open position. Take note of the PSI dial. The CO2 pressure should be between 10 and 14 PSI. In order to achieve this, adjust the regulator adjustment knob in the middle until the gauge displays a pressure reading within that range. You may need a screwdriver to adjust the pressure adjustment knob, depending on your regulator.

Then, open the regulator shut-off valve by turning it into the vertical position. This will ensure that beer doesn’t flow back into the air line when tapping the keg.

Check for leaks by spraying the connections with soapy water. If bubbles appear, it indicates a leak, requiring better sealing.

Attach the keg

Remove the keg dust cover. Ensure the keg coupler handle is set to the off position so the handle faces upwards and is not depressed. Secure the keg coupler into the keg by pushing the tap into the barrel fitting and turning it clockwise until you cannot turn it any further. Then, pull the handle out and push it down toward the floor until it locks in place.

Test pour

You can run a test pour into a glass by pulling the faucet handle down quickly and fully opening it to minimize excessive foam. If there is excessive foam, double-check that the PSI on the pressure gauge is within the correct range.

Tip: To avoid excessive foam, it’s recommended that the keg settle undisturbed in your DIY kegerator for a few hours before being used. This is also a good time to adjust the refrigerator’s temperature to ensure that you are storing your kegs between 36 and 40 degrees F.

FAQ

How long does beer stay fresh in a kegerator?

Between three and six months. If your beer has been pasteurized, it should stay fresh for at least three months and possibly up to six months if you keep it at the right temperature.

What is the difference between a Keezer and a kegerator?

A kegerator is a modified refrigerator designed to store and dispense kegs, featuring a draft system for easy pouring. A keezer, on the other hand, is a freezer converted for the same purpose.

The post Build Your Own Kegerator In Less Than a Day appeared first on Family Handyman.

Garage Floor Dam

Poop Pipe

Lighted Screwdriver Hack

Skinny Laundry Room Cart

Lift Gate Protection

No-Slip Cutting Board

Most cutting boards don’t come with any kind of rubber surface on the bottom to prevent them from sliding on a countertop. And no list oh household hacks would be complete without a simple solution to wobbles like this. With a couple of rubber bands, you can stabilize your cutting board and keep it from moving around during use. Slip on two rubber bands—one at each end of the cutting board—and you’re good to go. Make sure that the rubber bands lay flat and aren’t twisted when you put them on so the board will sit steady on your countertop.

DIY Tiered Hangers for More Closet Storage

Remove Hard-Water Buildup with a Lemon

Luminous Light Switch

Pinecone Scooper

Make a Homeowner’s Journal

Squeaky Door Hinge

Hold Knives, Kitchen Utensils and Other Gadgets

One of the most common ways to use magnetic strips for kitchen organization is to hold kitchen knives and utensils. Magnetic strips work great in small kitchens, because they help get items off the countertop so there’s less clutter. This is one of our more versatile household hacks. You can adapt it to most of the other rooms in your home. For example, a magnetic strip in the medicine cabinet can be used to store tweezers, clippers and small scissors.

High-Visibility Boundary Marker

Restore Free Flow to a Faucet

Identify Your Keys at a Glance

“It seems the older I get, the more keys I carry around. Between the car, house, shed and garage, I have a whole pocket full of keys. To make it easier to quickly find my most used keys, I paint both sides of the key head with brightly colored nail polish. I use a different color for each key. The nail polish is extremely durable and you’ll be surprised how much longer it lasts than spray paint.” —Joseph Grayson

Lawn Mower Grass Chute Saver

“To avoid a lot of string trimmer work, I like to mow as close as possible to trees and buildings. But the grass chute on my riding mower prevents it. So I drilled a hole in the chute and tied a rope from the chute to a handle on the side of the tractor. Now I can lift up the chute without missing a beat, and cut way down on string trimmer work. — Travis Larson

Dust Bunny Broom Cleaner

Our list of household hacks extends to chores as well. Every time you sweep, clumps of dust and hair collect at the ends of the broom’s bristles. To solve this problem, hot glue a wide-tooth comb to the top of a dustpan. Just run the bristles through the comb to remove any excess gunk dangling from the broom.

Homemade Heating Pad

While this last option isn’t a DIY fix for a specific room or appliance, we still felt that it belonged on any good list of household hacks because of how simple and useful it is. Next time you have a sore neck or back, don’t reach for an electric heating pad. Instead, fill a sock with uncooked rice, tie the end and microwave it for two or three minutes. It’s better than a heating pad, as it conforms to whatever body part that needs heat. You can even put in some fragrant herbs like cinnamon or lavender to make it smell nice!

The post These 20 Household Hacks Will Make Life So Much Easier appeared first on Family Handyman.

Cut Fiberglass Batts to Exact Widths

It’s easy to insulate your walls with fiberglass insulation (at least when they’re open!), but the job still requires attention to detail to get the maximum benefit. Every gap and compressed batt leaves a path for heat or cold to escape.

Measure and cut the fiberglass batt for an exact fit. Add about 1/4 in. to the measurement to ensure a snug fit. Use a 4- to 6-in.-wide board or strip of plywood as a straightedge to guide your utility knife. Line up the edge of the board at the proper width, compress the insulation and cut it with a sharp utility knife. A scrap of plywood under the batt will protect finished floors and keep the blade from dulling on concrete.

Avoid Stuffing

Don’t stuff full-width batts into spaces that are too narrow. Crumpling batts to fit narrow spaces creates uninsulated air pockets. And packed insulation has a lower R-value.

Wear Protective Equipment

Protect your skin, eyes and lungs when you’re working with fiberglass. If you’re installing a lot of it, consider wearing a disposable coverall (inexpensive at paint stores and home centers).

Goggles, gloves, a dust mask, a cap and long-sleeved coverings protect you from fiberglass irritation.

Seal Narrow Gaps with Foam

Seal around window and door jambs with expanding spray foam. The main purpose of the spray foam is to seal the space around the window to prevent air infiltration. Use foam that’s labeled for window and door insulating. This ‘minimal-expanding’ type reduces the chance of warping the jamb. If there’s still space around the window after the foam cures, lightly stuff the remaining space with strips of fiberglass insulation.

Notch Batts Around Electrical Boxes

Cut notches in batts to fit snuggly around electrical boxes. Airtight boxes have gaskets that seal against the drywall.

Put the batt in place, and use scissors to snip around the box. Tuck the snipped-out plug of insulation behind the box. Don’t wrap fiberglass batts around electrical boxes or stuff full batts behind them. That creates gaps and air convection routes around the box.

Split Batts Around Cables and Pipes

Split apart the batts to fit around wires and pipes to get the full value of the insulation. Fiberglass batts have a vertical weave that allow you to easily tear it open for insulating around electrical cables.

Avoid Stuffing Batts Behind Pipes and Cables

Don’t tuck full-thickness batts behind pipes and cables. Compressing the fiberglass decreases its insulating value and creates voids between the insulation and the drywall.

Plug Holes in Top and Bottom Plates

Plug holes in the top and bottom plates with expanding spray foam. Even small holes can let a lot of air escape. Don’t leave gaps around wires, pipes or ducts unplugged. These gaps create pathways for warm interior air to leak into the attic, wasting energy and causing attic condensation or even ice dams in cold climates.

Avoid Paper-Faced Insulation Where Possible

Don’t buy paper-faced insulation for standard wall insulating jobs. The paper facing makes cutting the batts difficult. And it’s hard to create a tight vapor retarder with paper-faced batts.

Buy Friction-Fit Batts

Buy unfaced friction-fit batts and seal the walls with a 4-mil poly vapor retarder. Seal the gap between the bottom plate of the wall and the floor with acoustical sealant or caulk. Press the poly into the sealant. Use special airtight electrical boxes (see photo, Tip 5) or seal the poly to the electrical box with acoustical sealant. Tape the seams in the poly with sheathing tape.

The post Make Your House More Comfortable with These Insulation Tips appeared first on Family Handyman.

Do you have any wire hangers left over from your last trip to the dry cleaners? Before you throw them away, consider that they can be surprisingly helpful when used to unclog a toilet or other drains. You can try this method if you do not have a plunger or an auger on hand and want to dislodge a clog as soon as possible. However, remember that metal hangers can scratch the porcelain of your toilet. To prevent this, I used some shrink tubing that I had at home to cover the metal hanger before attempting this method.

How does this method work? The wire coat hanger can be shaped to function like an auger, a tool used to clear blockages. To use this method, you should first remove any plastic coating or cardboard from the hanger. Be sure to wear rubber gloves to keep your hands clean. Another tip, keep a trash bin nearby so you can quickly toss the hanger out once you are finished.

If this method doesn’t work, you can try other options like a plunger or an auger. If those methods fail, it may be time to contact a plumber for assistance.

Straighten out a wire coat hanger

Straighten out the wire coat hanger by hand or using pliers. If you are removing some stuck toilet paper, you can try bending a hook at the end of the hanger so you can pull it out or push it through.

Add shrink tube at the end of the hanger

To prevent scratching the porcelain toilet, apply heat shrink tubing to the straightened hanger with a heat gun on the end of the hanger that will be inserted through the toilet drain.

Prod the clog

Put on rubber gloves and carefully insert the end of the wire with the shrink tube into the clogged area. Carefully shift the debris until it loosens and drains away. Then, attempt to flush the toilet. While a drain auger is a more effective tool for this task, a wire hanger can be used in a pinch.

FAQ

What is the strongest thing to unclog a toilet?

A plumbing auger, also known as a snake, is an effective tool for unclogging a toilet.

How to unclog a toilet when the water is high?

Use a toilet plunger or auger to unclog the toilet. Start by carefully inserting the plunger into the toilet bowl, ensuring it fills with water. Then, plunge gently until the clog is dislodged and the water drains away. If you are using an auger, place the end into the toilet bowl so that it points down the drain. Turn the handle clockwise to extend the auger cable down the drain toward the clog and remove it.

The post No Plunger? No Problem: How To Unclog Toilet With a Hanger appeared first on Family Handyman.

If your window AC is not doing its job, you’re going to suffer when the dog days of summer are upon you. Remember that air conditioners dehumidify while they cool, so if you’re experiencing humid weather, the loss of your window AC is a double whammy. You don’t have to settle for it. Here are some troubleshooting techniques to set things right.

Identify the Problem

We’re working on the assumption your window air conditioner is getting power, and it’s either blowing warm air or no air at all. If your window AC unit won’t turn on, there’s a good chance the issue lies in the outlet or the circuit itself. Also, consider how the unit was installed, and how it sits in the window. If you can see daylight, then the hot outside air may be counteracting the cold air from the AC.

Once you determine the problem is with unit itself, there are four major areas where something can go wrong: the air flow, the temperature control, the control panel and the cooling system. Of these, the air flow and temperature control are easiest to troubleshoot.

Air Flow

Luckily, the most common source of window AC unit trouble is also the easiest to fix. Air flow is controlled by a fan and blower that draws air from your home across a filter and over cooling coils, before being pushed back out into your room.

Your first step should always be to examine the air filter and make sure it’s clean. A dirty filter can block air from the evaporator coils, never allowing cold air to circulate around the room. The filter is usually behind the front grill, and you access it from the side or top of the unit.

Also, look at the rear of the unit. Debris or even trash may collect on the casing intakes (usually on the far end of the side), causing the fan to struggle to do its job. Clear off any debris and check if something is preventing the fan blades from turning. If so, you may need to open the case to clear an obstruction. Simply cleaning an air conditioning window unit including of the filter, coils and fan will fix a surprising number of cooling issues.

If air flow seems to be okay but the unit isn’t blowing air, or it’s blowing warm air, the next item to check is the temperature control.

Why a window AC doesn’t blow cold air

“If your AC is not blowing cold air, the refrigerant levels are probably low,’ says HVAC pro Glenn Gault. “Low refrigerant levels are often indicated by ice on the condenser and in the pan.” Suspect this problem only after confirming that the filters are clean and aren’t impeding air flow. You should also check the outdoor portion of the unit, where the condenser is located. As mentioned above, leaves and other debris collecting there could well be the problem, says Gault.

Temperature Control

The temperature on a window air conditioner is controlled by the thermostat (the setting on the outside of the unit) and the thermistor. A thermistor is a thermal resistor that will turn off the system when the air near the evaporator coil reaches the temperature indicated on the thermostat. The thermistor on most window AC units is behind the air filter next to the evaporator coil.

To test the temperature control, use a multimeter to check continuity and then cool the thermistor (usually done by applying an ice cube). If the temperature control is running properly, the continuity should turn off. A damaged thermistor is relatively easy to replace; refer to your manufacturer’s documentation to find the specs for the replacement.

If the temperature control is functioning and there is no impediment to the air flow, focus on the control panel and compressor. Don’t forget to check out our list of the best window air conditioners.

Control Panel and Cooling System

The control panel is the electrical “brain” of the window air conditioner, while the compressor and refrigerant are what actually do the work of removing heat from your home. If the control panel or compressor are malfunctioning, you’re facing a significantly more complicated repair. It’s still possible to do it yourself, but it would take a more detailed walk-through and tutorial. Keep in mind that you need Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) certification to purchase or use the refrigerant itself, which is a further complication.

For these reasons, it’s best to let a pro do the work. But before you pick up the phone, says Gault, do the math. Having a HVAC technician come out to repair your window AC will likely run $150 to $250. (If you take it to a service center, the range will be closer to $75 to $200.) Depending on the size and age of the unit, it may make more sense to replace it than to sink time and money into a repair.

About the Expert

• Glenn Gault operates Gault Heating & Cooling, an Ohio-based, family-owned business established by his father in 1955.

The post Why Isn’t My Window Air Conditioner Blowing Cold Air? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Although smooth walls have been the trend for many years now, some homes still have popcorn or textured ceilings. As with all walls in your home, there will come a time when you may want to paint it. Since popcorn and textured ceilings capture and trap dust and grim, they can look dingy over time. Even when you try to clean them, they just don’t look fresh and crisp, and you come to the crossroads of deciding to paint them. Before moving forward with painting, carefully consider your long-term plans for the ceiling, as painting over popcorn texture will make it significantly more difficult and costly to remove in the future should you decide to do so.

Painting any textured or rough surface has its challenges and requires a bit more effort than painting a smooth surface. Most importantly, it requires the thickest nap roller you can find. If you have ever painted a rough or textured surface with a thin nap roller, you know how frustrating it can be. Here is the lay of the land when approaching a popcorn ceiling with paint.

Do popcorn ceilings have asbestos?

Popcorn ceilings or textured ceilings applied in the 1980s or earlier are likely to contain some amount of asbestos, which is known to cause cancer.  If you’re not sure when your popcorn ceiling was installed, you can send a sample off to home centers to check if it contains asbestos. If uncertain, wear protective gear, such as safety glasses and a mask, to avoid coming into contact with crumbling texture or dust particles. If left undisturbed, the popcorn ceiling may be painted over, which is not harmful.

Mask the ceiling before painting

Before painting, clean the surface well to eliminate dust and loose particles. Dust and loose particles prevent the paint from properly adhering to any surface.

Use two-inch wide painter’s tape to mask off the edges of the outer perimeter of your ceiling. Ensure good adhesive bonding of the tape to seal the edge and avoid paint bleeds under the tape line. This is particularly important if the color of the walls differs from the color of the ceiling.

Protect floors and furniture with drop cloths

When using thick nap paint rollers, a lot of paint splatter will be generated during the painting process. Protect your floors and furniture with drop cloths or tarps to avoid paint droplets from getting everywhere. Additionally, wear clothes you won’t mind getting paint on, and protect your eyes by wearing safety glasses.

Cut in around the edges

Cut in around the edges of the room using a 1-1/2-to-2 in. angled trim brush to get into the nooks and crannies of the texture. Be generous when loading the brush with paint. Be careful not to push the paint too deeply into the tape’s edge, as this may cause it to bleed underneath. Use light brush strokes to avoid disturbing or damaging the texture.

Tip: Textured painter’s tape will leak paint through the wrinkles and under the texture, resulting in paint bleed that requires touchups. Choose painter’s tape with the smoothest texture for a clean paint edge.

Painting popcorn ceiling

Ceilings are usually painted in a flat finish unless they are located in high-moisture areas, such as bathrooms. Using a generous amount of paint, roll the paint onto the ceiling in random directions. Crisscross the roller as you go to force paint into the crevices of the texture. Think of making X and W patterns with your roller movement. In areas where a paint roller is too cumbersome to operate, use the trim brush to force the paint into the deep pockets of the popcorn drywall texture.

If you splatter paint on something not protected by a dropcloth, try to clean it up before the paint has fully dried. The fresher the paint splatter droplets, the easier they will be to remove.

Allow the paint to dry and apply a second coat. In most cases, two coats are sufficient, but depending on the coarseness of your ceiling and the paint you choose, more coats may be required.

Tip: Ceilings are usually painted white or light colors to reflect light back into the room. A darker paint color will absorb the light – which may be a conscious choice for a space such as a home theater.

Remove the painter’s tape and clean up

Once the paint has dried, gently remove the painter’s tape used to mask off the edges. Be careful not to pull off the texture that has been bonded to the edge of the tape. Remove the drop cloths and clean your painting supplies.

FAQ

Can I use a paint sprayer on a popcorn ceiling?

You may consider using a paint sprayer to paint a popcorn ceiling.  This will save on actual paint time but will require a lot more prep time. Using a paint sprayer will require the whole room to be fully protected because of the large amount of overspray. It comes down to personal preference. Ask professional painters, and half will say, “Definitely use a brush and roller,” and the other half will say, “Definitely use a paint sprayer.” For me, it comes down to the configuration of the room: how much furniture is in there?  What is the surface of the floor?  How tall are the ceilings?  The right choice is the one you feel most comfortable with.

What if I don’t want to paint a ceiling white?

White is highly reflective of light and will help a room feel bigger. If you want a bit of color but not a stark white, some professionals will mix a ratio of white with the color being used on the walls, so the ceiling lends itself to a complementary color but isn’t stark white.  Be sure to do a test, focusing on the color when it is dry.  Wet paint is deceiving because it is usually a different color than when it is dry. Think of saving a small amount of the mixed paint or make a note of the ratio used in the mix should you need to touch it up in the future.

What type of paint should I use for the ceiling?

More often than not, especially in new construction, you will find a ceiling painted with primer and no additional topcoat. If you desire a specific color match, you may add a topcoat over the primer.

Paint manufacturers are now selling paint specifically designed for ceilings. The difference between ceiling paint and primer is that ceiling paint is thicker, which may make additional coats less necessary. Ceiling paint comes in flat or low-gloss sheen.

Both primers and ceiling paints are manufactured to be stain-resistant, which means they are less likely to absorb smoke, cooking vapors, and other substances. Both ceiling paint and primers are also mildew-resistant.

The post The Ultimate Guide to Painting a Popcorn Ceiling Like a Pro appeared first on Family Handyman.

Closets are a precious space in any house. That’s why you’ve probably heard, “I don’t have enough closet space,” or “My closets are just too small!” more times than you can count.

Seeking solutions to maximize closet space without sacrificing tidiness, I turned to professional home organizer Rachel Winter from Happy Home Organizers. She gave this striking advice: “Don’t put anything but a clothes hamper for laundry on the floor of your closet.” This made sense: a clutter-free floor instantly makes a closet look neater and more spacious – but who can afford to lose out on all that floor space?

This insight sparked an idea – what if we could create a customized closet organizer that accommodated a laundry hamper, fabric storage bins, and shoes, all while giving the illusion of a clutter-free floor? Here, I’ll share my design and step-by-step instructions to help you create your own, which you can easily adapt to your specific storage needs.

The concept is simple: Let’s build an organizer that maximizes the space inside your closet. Everything in its place and a place for everything is the perfect motto for this project.

Before you begin

• Pre-paint all the wood to make touch-ups easier. If you can purchase primmed 1x2s, that will also make your process simpler and faster.
• Purchase the laundry hamper and fabric storage bins before starting the building process to get their dimensions. The size of these accessories will determine the height, length, and depth of your project. Allow additional space in your design for ease of access. Our accessories measured:
  • Laundry Hamper: 24″w x 25″h x 14″d
  • Fabric Storage Bins: 12-3/4″w x 12-3/4″h x 14-3/4″d

Project Overview

Cutting List

Build the top and bottom frames

Cut the pieces for the long sides (A) along with the sides (B) for the outer frames of your closet organizer. Join the pieces using wood glue, 18ga. brad nails and screws to create two frames, one for the top and one for the bottom of your completed unit.

Divide the base

To make two compartments, install the bottom shelf divider (F) between the long frame pieces (A) of the bottom frame. Install it so the hamper side is 24-3/4 inches wide and the other side is 38-inches wide. This side will serve as the bottom shelf. Please adjust this dimension if you intend to use a hamper with different dimensions.

Install legs in the corners

Using wood glue and two-inch screws, join the top and bottom frames with four legs (C), installing one in each corner.

Install the bottom plywood

Install the hamper bottom plywood (D) and bottom shelf plywood (E) in the openings on either side of the bottom shelf divider (F) installed at the bottom of the unit. Use nails, wood glue and screws to secure it in place flush to the bottom edge of the long (A) and side (B) frame pieces.

Install the middle legs

Install the last two legs (C) between the long frame pieces (A) on the front and back of the organizer so they are aligned with the hamper-side edge of the bottom shelf divider (F). Use a level to ensure they are plumb.

Install support for shelves

Determine the shelf height at which the fabric storage bins will fit. The shelf supports (G) should be installed 3/4-inch lower than this to allow space for the plywood shelf (H) to be installed. They should be glued, nailed and screwed in place level between the legs (C) on the left of the unit and the legs (C) aligned with the bottom shelf divider (F) near the center of the organizer. The top of our closet organizer’s supports (G) were installed 13-3/4-inches below the bottom edge of the long frame pieces (A) on top of the unit.

Install the middle shelf

Lay the middle shelf (H) onto the shelf supports (G) and install it flush to the outside edges of the supports (G). Use a small level to ensure the shelf is level and nails and wood glue to lock it in place.

Install trim on front and back of shelf

To cover the raw edges of the plywood middle shelf (H) on the front and back of the closet organizer, install the middle shelf trim piece (J) flush to the top of the shelf (H) and in between the legs (C).

Install top

Install the plywood top shelf (K) flush with the top of the unit above the middle shelf (H) where the storage bins will be located. You may find it easier to install this piece by turning the entire unit upside down. Use wood glue, brad nails, and screws to secure the top through the long (A) and side (B) frame pieces at the top of the organizer.

Fill holes with putty, caulk seams, sand and touch up with paint

After the entire unit has been assembled, fill all nail and screw holes with wood filler and caulk all visible seams with painter’s caulk. After the filler and caulk have dried, sand back the filler to create an even and level surface. Then, retouch the paint for a smooth and even finish.

FAQ

Where does one start with closet organization?

You can’t organize a closet until you know what is already in it and what you want to put in it. Start with an inventory of what is in your closet. Throw away anything broken, ripped or no longer useful. Donate anything someone else may get use from. Now there’s more room to sort the things you want to keep.

What if my closet is too small for everything I want to store in it?

Consider sorting your clothes or accessories by season. Hang the items you want for the season on the closet rod, and store the stuff you won’t be using. Trade them out with the change of seasons.

The post Maximize Space, Minimize Mess: How to Build a Closet Organizer That Works appeared first on Family Handyman.

This year’s winners are as follows:

KBIS Winners

• Best in Show: ALADDIN by Effe Perfect Wellness
• Game-Changing Innovation – Gold: VIBE by LifeValet
• Game-Changing Innovation – Silver: CERAN Luminoir TFT by SCHOTT
• Style Statement: Kitchen – Gold: Vera Deluxe Workstation Kitchen Sink by TopZero
• Style Statement: Kitchen – Silver: Billet Kitchen Faucet Collection by Kohler
• Style Statement: Bath – Gold: James Martin Vanities x Cosentino x FreePower Collaboration
• Style Statement: Bath – Silver: Guise Collection by Kallista
• Sustainable Standout – Gold: Landshapes Tile by Kohler WasteLAB x Daniel Arsham
• Sustainable Standout – Silver: Le Chic Bohème by Silestone XM
• Wellness Trailblazer – Gold: Kohler x Remedy Place Ice Bath by Kohler
• Wellness Trailblazer – Silver: Hot/Cold Plunge Indoor Tub by EMPAVA
• Most Functional Find – Gold: SPACE STEP by Blum
• Most Functional Find – Silver: FurnSpin by Hettich

KBIS Highlights

Eco-friendly tile

Made of landfill-bound leftovers from Kohler manufacturing processes, Landshapes Tile by Kohler WasteLAB x Daniel Arsham is as innovative as it is beautiful. Constructed from 80 percent recycled materials and available in various colors, this indoor tile may just be the future of all tile production.

Streamlined home sauna

Luxury and simplicity combine in the ALADDIN personal sauna by Effe Perfect Wellness. This sauna’s sophisticated design and premium materials effortlessly enhances any living space. Notable highlights of the product include a curved-edge bench, floating heater wrapped in anodized aluminum and mirrored fascia for an elevated home sauna experience.

Seamless sink design

The Vera Deluxe Workstation Kitchen Sink by TopZero effortlessly combines beauty and functionality. Made from marine-grade stainless steel and finished with a physical vapor deposition coating, it offers exceptional durability and scratch resistance. Its award-winning stylish features include LED-in-basin lighting and a sleek, seamless design. The sink also boasts a multi-level frame for cutting, washing and drying accessories, a built-in drawer organizer, and three installation options.

Double-duty plunge tub

Experience the ultimate in contrast therapy with the Hot/Cold Plunge Indoor Tub by EMPAVA. Designed with side-by-side tubs—one for hot soaks and the other for cold plunges—this spa-quality unit offers an 18-inch soaking depth, a 41.73-inch basin length and powerful circulating jets.

Home ice bath

Ice baths are all the rage right now, and the forthcoming Kohler X Remedy Place Ice Bath would make a lovely addition for anyone interested in having their own wellness space at home. Ergonomically designed with a beautiful silhouette that would transform any bathroom into a spa, Kohler’s ice bath features an integrated water filtration system as well as a programmed user experience to create personalized sessions. No surprise why this was an award winner.  – Ryan Van Bibber, executive editor Family Handyman.

Elegant faucets

We’ve told readers for years that upgrading their faucets and fixtures is an easy way to add some design flair to a house, and I saw some incredible options for DIYers at the KBIS show. The Frank Loyd Wright collection from Brizo really captured my attention. The designs feature clean lines and a simple, function-driven focus that makes Wright’s work memorable. The products come in various finishes, but the wood trim is what really stands out. – Ryan Van Bibber

 Design-forward appliances

Another favorite from KBIS for me was the Cafe line of appliances from GE. The Cafe line has been around for a while now, but they’ve really doubled down on the idea that everyday kitchen appliances can effectively be a personal style choice. More than just something that sits in the kitchen, but appliances that truly define the space with a variety of colors and finishes that can turn a functional space like a kitchen into a true design statement. Among the products on display, I was really impressed with the Cafe Double Drawer Dishwasher. Incredibly convenient, it allows you to run small loads without having to power the entire dishwasher. Plus, it’d be great for entertaining, as you can run one drawer while waiting to load the other one. – Ryan Van Bibber

NHAB Winners

• Best in Show: Clopay VertiStack Avante garage door by Clopay Corporation
• Best Energy Efficient Product: Whole Home Electrification: SPAN Panel MLO 48 – SPAN
• Best Home Technology Product: Frontline Defense System 2 – Frontline Wildfire Defense
• Best Indoor Product: FRS200HT with 30-200 CFM Smart Sensing Supply Fan – Humidity and Temperature Control – Delta Electronics (Americas), Ltd.
• Best Kitchen and Bath Product: The Acrylic Haven Hammock – The Hammock Bath Company LLC
• Best Outdoor Product: ADORN Stone ECO2LUXE Powered by CaptureCrete – NCP Industries
• Best Window and Door Product: Clopay VertiStack Avante by Clopay Corporation
• Most Innovative Building Material: TYPAR Clear Acrylic Flashing – TYPAR
• Most Innovative Construction Tool (TIE): IQ Vise System – Work IQ Tools and ClearLOC – Legend Valve
• Best Business Solution Software Product: JobTread Software – JobTread Software

NHAB Highlights

Reimagined Garage Doors

I saw Clopay VertiStack Avante garage door in action at the show, and it was awesome. Instead of the door rolling up on tracks, the VertiStack Avante opens with sections that stack vertically above the door opening. Not only would it be great for someone who wants to maximize the overhead, but I could also see it as a door between the patio and house, combining your outdoor space with the interior into one giant living space during the warm weather months. – Ryan Van Bibber

Luxurious standalone tub

With its visually striking design, the Acrylic Haven Hammock by The Hammock Bath Company seamlessly blends style and modernity. Suspended in the air and supported by two steel end frames, this tub mimics the look of a real hammock. Crafted from molded acrylic, it offers a stain-resistant, low-maintenance finish, while its flat bottom makes it an ideal choice as a two-person soaker tub.

Forward-thinking electrical panel

Step into the future of home energy management with the SPAN Panel MLO 48. Designed to replace traditional circuit breaker panels, this advanced panel offers smart home integration and real-time energy monitoring. The MLO 48 is perfect for homes looking to optimize energy usage, integrate renewable energy sources like solar or incorporate energy storage systems such as home batteries.

Smart wildfire protection

At the core of the Frontline Defense System 2 is advanced fire detection software that monitors fire activity within a 7-mile radius of your home. Upon detecting a fire, the system automatically activates sprinkler systems to drench the home’s exterior with water and flame retardant. The companion app delivers real-time evacuation instructions and live updates, for truly smart wildfire protection.

Eco conscious construction materials

Powered by CaptureCrete technology, the ADORN Stone ECO2LUXE mortarless stone veneer actively captures and stores carbon from the atmosphere. This innovative material seamlessly combines environmental responsibility with a visually appealing, durable building solution, setting a new standard in sustainable construction.

Better screens for windows

As someone who’s repaired more than a few window screens over the years, I was really excited to see the new Integrated Rolscreen Windows from Pella. It’s a retractable screen that appears when you roll up the window and disappears when you close it, helping to prevent wear and tear as well as giving your exterior a more attractive look. Another highlight is just how tough the screen materials are on these windows. It seems like most screens get a big gash just from catching a fingernail on them, but Pella’s screen material can withstand the rigors of even the most aggressive pets. – Ryan Van Bibber 

Resilient building materials

I live in New Mexico, where wildfires are just a part of life now, so I was really impressed by LP’s FlameBlock fire-resistance OSB panels. In addition to that product, LP had a lot of resiliency-focused building materials on display at the show, including their WeatherLogic panels, which would be great if you’re building in an area where moisture and flooding are major concerns.  – Ryan Van Bibber 

The post The Most Exciting New Building, Kitchen and Bath Products of 2025 appeared first on Family Handyman.

Find Your Property Lines

Iron stakes mark property lines in most communities. They’re typically located at corners and places where property lines meet. To get started, request a plot plan from city hall. You may be able to find the stakes by dragging a rake over the suspected location. But more likely, the stakes will be several inches underground. In that case, your best bet is to buy or rent a metal detector (inexpensive ones cost less than $40). When you’ve found your target, dig to make sure that it’s really a stake and not just a lost quarter.

Plumbing: Locate Your Main Water Shutoff Valve

In warm climates, the main water shutoff is typically outside, attached to a wall or underground. In colder climates, the main water shutoff is typically in the utility room or basement, near the water meter. For homes connected to city water supply, there’s also a main shutoff valve outside near the curb and sidewalk under a small cover.

Plumbing: A Leaking Water Heater is a Time Bomb

Water heaters sometimes leak from the drain valve or relief valve. Those valves are easy to replace. But if a leak is coming from the tank, you’ve got serious trouble. The tank is lined with a thin coat of glass. Eventually, that glass begins to crack, the steel begins to rust away and a puddle appears. Left alone, the tank will rupture, causing an instant flood. It may take months for a leak to become a flood, or it may take days. But it will happen. Don’t gamble. Replace that leaking time bomb now.

Plumbing: Adjust Your Water Heater

If you’ve ever taken a vacation without adjusting your water heater, you’ve already lost money on this easy-to-master homeowner skill. While finding the large dial, usually at the base of your water heater, shouldn’t be hard, finding the correct temperature may be. When going away on holidays, turn your water temperature down to avoid the need to maintain the temperature of the whole tank while you’re away. Just don’t forget to turn it back up when you get home.

Plumbing: Shut Off the Water Before Vacation

Every insurance adjuster has a hundred stories like this one: The homeowners left town Friday and returned Sunday evening to find thousands of dollars in water damage. The moral of these stories is simple: Before going on vacation, turn off the main water valve. In less than a minute, you can eliminate the most common cause of home damage.

Plumbing: Galvanized Pipes Get Plugged

If you have galvanized steel pipes in your home and low water flow at faucets, chances are the pipes are to blame. Galvanized pipe is prone to mineral buildup, which eventually chokes off the water flow. Complete replacement of the water supply pipes is the best cure, but you can often improve flow a lot just by replacing exposed horizontal sections.

Plumbing: Test the Sump Pump or Risk a Flood

It’s easy to forget about your sump pump, but it’s important to make sure it’s in good working order. If you don’t, you could end up like the homeowner who returned from a weekend trip to discover his entire basement floor covered in 1/2 in. of water. After shutting down the power, he waded over to the sump pump and noticed it wasn’t working. Upon closer inspection, he realized that the cable attached to the float must have gotten tangled somehow. It took him two seconds to untangle the cable, and then he spent the next 15 hours dragging out waterlogged carpet, running the wet/dry vac and moving fans around. To avoid a similar disaster, be sure your pump has a vertical float switch. Also, check your pump at least a couple times a year by dumping water into the basin to make sure everything is working properly.

Plumbing: Don’t Wreck an Outdoor Faucet

Here’s why you end up replacing outdoor faucet washers that have worn out long before they should: When you turn off a frost-proof faucet, water continues to trickle out of the long pipe even after the valve is closed. When people see that water, they often assume the valve didn’t close, so they crank down harder, which overcompresses the washer, greatly reducing its life. Patience is the key. Wait a second or two after closing the valve. The water should eventually stop (unless you’ve already destroyed the washer).

MYTH: Frost-proof faucets cannot freeze.

FACT: Leaving a hose attached throughout the winter could leave water in the line to freeze and cause the faucet to burst. Also, if the faucet slopes slightly toward the house, the long pipe will also hold water that can freeze.

Plumbing: Take Care of Your Drains

The traps in floor drains — or for that matter, any drains that aren’t used often — will eventually dry out. This may sound harmless enough, but a dry trap can cause a room to fill with potentially harmful sewer gas from the septic tank or the city sewer system. Eliminate this problem by adding about a quart of fresh water topped with a couple of tablespoons of cooking oil. The oil floats on top of the water and seals it against evaporation. Your drain will hold water in the trap much longer.

Understand Your Electrical System

Electrical overloads are easily created but can be incredibly dangerous for your home and everyone in it. A solid understanding of how the electrical circuits in your home function will not only make you a master homeowner, it will allow you to make as many DIY improvements as you want while maintaining the integrity of your electrical system.

Electrical System: Don’t Trust Breaker Panel Labels

Inside your main electrical panel, you’ll see labels or lists indicating which breaker controls which circuit. These labels are a reasonably good guide, but they’re not completely reliable, especially in older homes that have been through remodeling projects.

For example, you might find that there’s one outlet in a room that’s not on the same circuit as all the others in that room, yet it’s not listed elsewhere at the panel. That orphan outlet could be connected to almost any other circuit in your home. In some cases, you might even find wires from different circuits in the same junction box. The bottom line: Always use a voltage detector to make sure the power is off before you do any electrical work.

Electrical System: Before You Call an Electrician

Some of the most common electrical problems the pros get calls about are easily fixed yourself. Here are some of the most common complaints electricians receive.

You screwed in a new fuse but still don’t have any power. Are you sure you used the same amperage fuse as the one you replaced? Is the fuse good? Is it screwed in tight?

You checked the circuit breakers, but the outlet still doesn’t work. Some outlets are protected by upstream GFCIs or GFCI circuit breakers. Look in the circuit box for a GFCI circuit breaker and in bathrooms, kitchens and laundry rooms for GFCI outlets. Test and reset them. This may solve your problem.

You replaced the lightbulb but the light fixture still doesn’t work. Are you sure the new bulb is good? Try it in another light fixture and make sure it’s screwed all the way in. “This outlet used to work. Now it’s dead.” Check all the switches in the room. One of them might control the outlet.

Clean and Inspect Gutters

You have to clean gutters once a year, at least. They get clogged with leaves, sticks and other debris, and if you don’t clean them, they get clogged, which leads to water seeping under the roof and into the foundation.

All you have to do is just grab a ladder and take a look to see how much debris they have built up in them. You can even attach a hand mirror to the end of a PVC pipe and cut the pipe at a 60-degree angle so the mirror reflects an inside view of the gutter.

You’ll also want to inspect gutters for damage. Besides checking to see that they’re not clogged and flowing properly, make sure to look for any damaged spots, and check to see that they’re not pulling away from where they’re attached to the roof. 

Gutters: Deal with Drainage

Water has the potential to cause problems in any home, and the skills to deal with drainage issues can be a huge money saver in the long run. Extending downspouts is an easy fix, but knowing how to make a drainage plan is going to provide long-term results for minimal effort.

Clean Dryer Vents or Waste Energy and Risk a Fire

A plugged dryer vent will cause your dryer to run inefficiently, and that’s bad. A plugged dryer vent could also cause a house fire, and that could be deadly! Dryers that are centrally located in houses are most prone to plugging because of the longer ducts.

Excess lint is only one reason ducts get clogged; nesting pests and stuck exhaust hood flappers can also cause backups. Stronger odors and longer dry times are two signs your vent is plugged.

To clean the dryer vent, you’ll have to remove it from the back of the dryer. Suck debris from the ducts with a wet/dry vac, or ream them out with a cleaning kit that includes a brush on a long flexible rod that attaches to a power drill. If your ducts need replacing, get smooth metal ducts, which will stay cleaner longer than the rough corrugated surface of flexible ducts. Avoid plastic ducting altogether; it can be a fire hazard.

Test and Replace the Batteries in Smoke Detectors

Smoke detectors should be tested monthly, and the batteries should be replaced every year, so it’s a good habit to make this part of your regular spring maintenance routine. Test the batteries by simply pressing the ‘test’ button and making sure the unit chirps. Even if it works, replace the battery (or back-up battery, if your is a hardwired model) and re-test it. If the alarm does not pass the test, replace it immediately.

Smoke detectors have a lifespan of 10 years, so look for a ‘replace by’ sticker or date embossed on the inside of the unit to see if it needs to be replaced, even if it passes the chirp test. If you can’t find a date, replace it anyway immediately. On new detectors, make sure to write the ‘installed’ date on the inside cover on a piece of masking tape.

Ceiling Fans

What size ceiling fan do you need?

Ceiling fans can save energy and money for heating and cooling. A quick rule of thumb for sizing them matches the diameter of the fan with the largest dimension of a room. For 12 ft. or less, use a 36-in. fan. For 12 to 16 ft., use a 48-in. fan. For 16 to 18 ft., use a 52-in. fan. And for dimensions larger than 18 ft., install two fans. Placement of a ceiling fan for adequate air circulation is 7 ft. above the floor with the blades 8 to 10 in. from the ceiling. And to move more air at low speed, a fan with five blades is best. Regarding energy savings, research has proven that ceiling fans can save energy during the cooling season by creating a gentle breeze. You get your savings then by raising your thermostat by a minimum of 2 degrees. This decreases air conditioning energy used by 10 to 15 percent, or 5 to 8 percent per degree.

What direction should you ceiling fan turn?

Ceiling fans should turn clockwise in the colder months, which pushes warm air back down into the room. Most fans have a simple switch that reverses the direction. By reversing your fan (so it runs clockwise) during winter, you pull heat from the ceiling and push it down to the floor for more even heat.

Fix wobbly ceiling fans

Ceiling fans often wobble for reasons other than balance. Although a slight wobble (1/8 in. on high) is normal, anything more than that is annoying and potentially dangerous. Troubleshoot and fix your ceiling fan with this guide.

Change Furnace Filters Every Month

Regular filter replacement is the very best thing you can do to keep your furnace in top condition. And here’s a way to keep track of that task: Buy several filters and label them. With some systems, monthly filter changes are best. Others can go a few months between changes.

Understand Your Insulation

R-value is a measure of the resistance to heat flow, a way of indicating insulation’s ability to stop heat from moving through it. The higher the number, the better. Insulation is labeled by total R-value. Two factors determine that number: the thickness of the insulation and the insulating ability of the material. The fiberglass batts shown here, for example, are all the same thickness but differ in R-value because of their different densities.

Seal Outlets and Ceiling Boxes

The tiny gaps around outlets on exterior walls and ceiling boxes let cold air in (and warm air out). Sealing these areas takes just half a day and will help cut down on drafts (and your heating bill!).

Choose Colors That Work Now And Later

Neutral colors—shades of white, gray or beige—are a wise choice for fixtures, like toilets, tile, tubs and countertops, that are not easy to change. They don’t provide much drama, but you can add pizzazz with paint or simple, inexpensive accents like rugs or pottery. And as trends change, you can update the look without costly remodeling.

Preview a Fence

Will a privacy fence really deliver privacy—or hide your neighbor’s junk collection? Finding out is easy with a big sheet of cardboard. Along with a helper, you can determine the best location and height.

Prevent Dust Build Up By Proper Vacuuming

The right vacuuming technique, combined with the right filters, bags and machine, has a significant impact on how much dust remains in your carpeting. Keep the following tips for how to clean dust in mind:

• Vacuum high-traffic areas twice a week and the rest of the carpeting and large area rugs at least weekly.
• Make numerous slow passes over the same area in all directions (fast passes stir up more dust than is being sucked up).
• Use certified True High-Efficiency Particulate Air (HEPA) filters to remove invisible particles and allergens. Look for the word ‘True” on the label.
• If you have allergies, upgrade to a sealed-body bagged vacuum with an airtight ‘sealed filtration’ system that works together with a True HEPA filter. This means all of the exhaust will exit through the HEPA filter instead of leaking dust back into your house through the machine’s housing. Sealed-body vacuums have rubber seals or gaskets around the lid and filter and will last 10 to 20 years. Brands include Riccar, Miele and Sanitaire.
• Buy high-quality vacuum bags. Inexpensive 2- or 3-ply paper bags leak more dust. Higher-quality cotton-lined paper bags are better, and top-quality synthetic cotton HEPA bags are the best. Bag capacity matters too. Higher-capacity bags capture more, smaller particles that would have otherwise clogged the filter.
• Clean all your bagless vacuum filters regularly and replace them every three months.
• Turn off the agitator brush on hard flooring so you’re not blowing dust into the air.
• Maintain your vacuum: Empty the canister frequently (always outside) and change bags and belts when needed. Keep the agitator brush free of hair and other material, and check the vacuum for cracks and loose hinges and get it serviced every so often to keep it running smoothly.

Don’t Plant Problem Trees

You’ll be living with this tree for a long time, so make sure you plant one you won’t grow to detest in a few years. Trees to avoid include cottonwoods, which have invasive root systems, messy mulberries and stinky female ginkgoes. Before you buy a tree, research its benefits and potential negatives so you won’t resent it later on. Contact your local extension service for a list of recommended trees for your area.

Replace Loose and Popped Nails on Decks

Decking swells and shrinks as it goes through repeated cycles of wet and dry seasons. This frequently causes nails to loosen and pop up above the deck boards. You can drive them down again, but chances are that’s only a short-term solution. They’ll probably pop up again after a few years. The long-term solution is to remove the popped nails and replace them with deck screws.

Take Care of Your Refrigerator

Spend 30 minutes on these simple maintenance steps to keep your fridge running in tip top shape. It’s hard to believe, but a few simple maintenance steps will prevent almost 100 percent of refrigerator breakdowns and eliminate those service calls. Take these steps and you can forget about spoiled food, lost time waiting for repair people and shelling out $70 an hour plus parts for the repair itself. In this story, we’ll show you how to keep your fridge humming and trouble-free. And we’ll also tell you what to check if a problem does occur.

The post 26 Ways to Avoid Homeowner Headaches and Save Money appeared first on Family Handyman.

Don’t Let the Junk Drawer Overflow

It goes without saying that a junk drawer goes from being a place for miscellaneous items, to an overflowing space that has more non-essential items in it than ones you actually want to get easy access to. While it’s not always a fun chore, but not list of kitchen organization hacks is complete without it.

Go through your junk drawer quarterly, making sure anything that’s in there is something you truly need. The rest you can sort into different piles. Business cards and receipts should be scanned or filed away in the office. Miscellaneous office supplies should be corralled back in their appropriate containers. Loose change belongs in a change jar. And anything that you won’t use anymore should be tossed, donated or recycled depending on it’s condition.

Adding a drawer divider can seriously help tame your junk drawer too. That’s an easy DIY project

Stud Space Cabinets

In almost every room of your house, you can find tons of storage space hidden between the two sheets of drywall. Simple stud-space cabinets are great for capturing some of this wasted space. If you’ve got the free time, this is a great project to get yourself some extra storage, especially in a small kitchen.

Functional Décor

If you happen to have inherited your grandma’s rolling pins, knotty wooden utensils, or well-worn cutting boards, you have a design opportunity waiting. Consider storing these beloved kitchen wares out in the open as authentic décor elements by hanging them on available wall space. Just make sure you mount them in such a way that you can easily take them down for use.

Organize Your Fridge with a Six-Pack

Do all of your small bottles in the refrigerator door like to tip over after opening or closing the door? Fortunately, the answer to tidying those wayward bottles is just a recycling bin away. To keep your kitchen storage and organization under control, use an empty six-pack holder to hold the condiments in your refrigerator door.

Store Dry Goods in Jars

You can easily organize your dry goods by storing them inside old jars and canisters. Not only can you create uniformity in your pantry storage this way, but you can also see at a glance where your lentils, rice, or oats are stashed. Arranging these jars on display on open shelves can also give your kitchen a rustic, homestead-chic look.

Pullout Chopping Board

Pullout solutions are perfect for small kitchens as they allow a decent amount of extra kitchen counter space with a very small footprint. And a pull-out cutting board is perfect for food prep, cookbooks or for extra storage. Plus, when you are done, you can simply slide it back into the cabinet.

Optimize Your Cabinets

If your cabinets are just too small to manage all the items you need to store in there, consider some of these options to add extra room to them and maximize the space that already exists.

Kitchen Cabinet Rollout

Bring Office Supplies Into Your Kitchen

Repurposing office supplies might seem out of place on a list of kitchen organization hacks, but one of the best ways to keep your space organized on a budget is to get creative with items you already have.

File Folders

Kitchen Window Plant Perch

Coffee Pod Storage

Mobile Kitchen Storage and Organization Cart

The post 15 Hacks to Help Tame Kitchen Clutter for Good appeared first on Family Handyman.

Inspect for Serious Issues like Mold

Inspect damaged materials for mold and mildew. Mold can start to grow in the right conditions in as little as 24 hours. For long-term issues, like mold caused by attic condensation, the mold may have started growing a long time ago. And if you find mold and mildew issues, you need to be very careful. Some mold is toxic to humans, and all mold is very damaging to the materials it infests. For small mold issues, cut out the material, bag it, and throw it away immediately.

For serious mold issues, get out of the area, shut down any airflow (to avoid spore contamination) and call a professional. And keep in mind that mold can show up in hidden areas like inside walls or under floors, so this inspection and water damage repair will be ongoing.

Dry Out the Affected Area

It’s important to get rid of all moisture ASAP before it causes more damage. And for small leaks, this may not be difficult, but it’s important to be thorough. Use fans to circulate air in the affected area. For larger projects, consider renting a large-capacity dehumidifier to really dry out surrounding wood, carpet, and other materials. You don’t want any moisture left after your water damage repair.

Remove and Toss Damaged Porous Materials

Porous materials include carpet, insulation, drywall, fabric, and similar items. If they’ve been soaked in water, you may have to cut them out and throw them away. Water will permanently damage most porous materials by shrinking or warping them, and mildew will damage them even further.

If you have a beloved piece of furniture you want to save, you could try isolating and drying it out, but the damage may already be done, especially if you see drywall water damage. Note that unsealed cement, drywall, and wood are also porous materials.

Disinfect Remaining Materials

When damaged components have been removed, disinfect the whole area before you begin working. The most common choice is a bleach solution, but there are a number of homemade options you can choose from. Lightly spray and wipe down the area before you start water damage repair to help make sure no mold spores linger.

Focus on Ceilings with Water Damage First

Ceilings exposed to water damage are more at risk due to gravity: You don’t want them sagging or collapsing. So, remove affected ceiling panels or boards first. If the ceiling leak is caused by a roof problem, it’s important to find the true source of the leak, which may be somewhere far removed from the water stain. And take this time to make sure the water caused no structural damage to beams or rafters. You can contact professionals to find out what replacing a water damaged ceiling repair cost job runs.

Replace Damaged Wood

All severely warped wood (particularly flooring), rotting wood and wood that has developed mold/mildew problems will need to be replaced. Pry apart damaged boards and thoroughly clean beneath them before replacing them. And if the wood is a structural component of your house, you must be very careful when replacing it so that the structure has the right support during and after the water damage repair project.

Install New, Sealed Floors

From wet carpets to swollen floorboards, it’s often evident when water has damaged your floor. But if you aren’t sure, it’s important to check immediately in case moisture has become trapped underneath. Note that underlayment and padding are particularly susceptible to water damage and must usually be removed. However, this also presents an opportunity to install new, waterproof flooring in the area.

Ceramic tile, high-end vinyl and certain engineered wood materials can all help protect floors against future water damage repair. If a leaky toilet has damaged the floor underneath it, you can easily replace that flooring yourself.

Measure and Replace Drywall

How much drywall should you replace if you have drywall water damage? Generally speaking, if drywall has swelled or sagged 3/8 of an inch or more from the baseline, then you need to replace the entire sheet. Otherwise, you can cut out and water damage repair the water-stained portion. And remember to check the insulation behind the drywall for damage as well.

Inspect and Replace External Siding

Ice dams and other roof problems can also cause water damage to siding materials as well. Here, the biggest danger is water seeping in behind your siding and causing permanent damage to more vulnerable materials. So if this happens, you will need to remove or replace the siding quickly before rot sets in. Water can also seep in behind faux stone and other external walls around your home. So it’s important to be thorough in this inspection.

Caulk and Paint

After materials have been replaced, match your paint or stain for touch ups or apply a fresh coat. This is also the time to seal and caulk the new materials to help minimize any future water problems.

For Significant Damage, Check Your Insurance

If you have significant water damage, check your homeowners insurance to see what type of water damage repair is covered. Sudden events (like a burst pipe) are more likely to be covered than a slow leak. And you may be able to make a claim—but it’s important to act fast.

The post 12 Tips to Help Repair Water Damage in Your Home appeared first on Family Handyman.

Toilets

Don’t let your toilet be a mysterious device in the corner of your bathroom: Toilets actually operate by very simple mechanisms that are easy to understand. The majority of toilet issues—clogs, continuous running water, loud noises, etc.—can be solved with the quick purchase of a replacement part and some tinkering in the tank. Don’t be afraid to open it up and take a look.

Light Switches

Don’t automatically avoid a project just because it involves electricity: Replacing a standard light switch with a dimmer switch is a very doable DIY project, as is replacing a three-way switch.

Ceilings

Before you go through the trouble of repainting a ceiling to get rid of a water stain, try this trick. Spray the spot with a bleach and water solution (10 percent bleach), and wait a day or two. If it’s an old stain, use a mold and mildew remover from the grocery store. You’d be surprised how often the stain disappears by the next day. It works on both flat and textured ceilings.

Wear safety goggles, and make sure you protect the walls and floors with plastic.

Repairing and Replacing Doors

A variety of problems can befall your home’s doors, especially older doors that may start to sag, stick, develop drafts or experience other issues. Fixing or replacing a door is well within the capabilities of most homeowners, especially if you have a partner to help out.

Fix Faucets

A leaky or malfunctioning faucet can be fixed or replaced by even a novice DIYer. You can take your faucet apart and clean it out, or if worse comes to worse, replace it entirely in the space of a couple of hours.

Fix Squeaky Floors

To fix a squeaky floor under carpet, locate the floor joists with a stud finder, then drive in a trim head screw through the carpet, pad and subfloor, and right into the floor joist. Be sure the top inch of the screw doesn’t have threads or the subfloor won’t suck down tight to the joist. We like trim screws because screws with larger heads pull down and pucker the carpet. If that happens, back out the screw and drive it back down. Keep adding screws until the squeak stops.

How to Unclog Clogged Drains

Most clogged drains are caused by hair or greasy grime and you can clear them out yourself. Skip the chemical drain cleaner and grab a plunger to clear the clog and save on a service call. Even serious drain clogs in the distant reaches of your plumbing can be fixed without a pro.

Drafts

If you can see light creeping beneath exterior doors, air is also escaping. Grab a few packages of self-adhesive rubber foam weatherstripping and go to town, sealing any and all doors that lead outside. Weatherstripping already installed but you’re still suffering from a high gas bill? It might be time to replace the strips installed by the previous owners. 

Caulk and Grout

Missing caulk around the bathtub or broken grout between tiles is an invitation for serious moisture damage. Fortunately, you can recaulk a bathtub or shower and regrout your wall tile without calling in a pro.

Garbage Disposal Repair

A garbage disposal is a bit scary when it’s turned on and the blades are noisily chopping up kitchen waste. But, if your disposal gets stinky, fear not. It’s easy to clean out the gunk and get rid of the smell. If the splash guard needs replacing, you can do that in 20 minutes! If you need to replace the entire disposal you can replace it yourself.

Repairing Walls

Drywall is everywhere and it is surprisingly easy to damage. The good news is that the average drywall ding or hole can be easily patched. It’s also easy to repair cracks in drywall. Got popped drywall nails or screws? You can fix those, too!

Window Screens

Window screens can get punctured or torn, but as long as the frame is in good shape repairs are easy and can be done in a few minutes.

Wallpaper

If you have a wallpaper seam that’s coming apart, reactivate the paste around the gap with a rag soaked in warm water. Hold the rag over the area for a minute or two, and then carefully open the gap a little larger so you’ll have more room for the sealer. Squeeze seam sealer (white glue works in a pinch) into the gap, and press the paper to the wall with a roller. Clean off the excess sealer with a sponge.

Repair Gutters

Repair your gutters before overflowing water damages your home. If your home doesn’t have gutters, you can install them yourself. Also, consider installing gutter guards.

Repairing Decks

Many things can go wrong with a deck. Missing screws, warped boards, squeaky nails, wobbly railings, fortunately, many of these problems are well within the scope of the average DIYer. Inspect your deck for seven common deck problems and then repair whatever needs fixing.

Upholstery

Do you have a piece of upholstered furniture that has worn or torn fabric? Don’t worry! You can replace the fabric with a design of your own choice. In fact, you may be able to make it better than ever.

Fix Windows

Obviously you can’t glue broken glass back together. But, for windows that get stuck, let in drafts or have moisture issues, there are DIY solutions. Fix old windows, double-hung windows, window glass glazing and screens. You can also stop window drafts and learn how to avoid and remove window condensation. If you want to take on a larger task, you can even replace your windows.

Siding

Nail holes in aluminum and vinyl siding are tough to repair without replacing the entire piece, but a squirt of color-matched caulk from a siding supplier will solve the problem for a lot less money and aggravation.

The post Don’t Spend Money On These Common Home Repairs You Can DIY appeared first on Family Handyman.

Touch up Nicks and Scratches

Cleaning up any nicks or scratches on your furniture is one of the easiest quick home upgrades you can do. If you have shallow scratches or nicks, hide them with a stain-filled touch-up marker. Dab on the stain and wipe off the excess with a rag. But beware: Scratches can absorb lots of stain and turn darker than the surrounding finish. So start with a marker that’s lighter than your cabinet finish and then switch to a darker shade if needed.

For deeper scratches, use a filler pencil, which fills and colors the scratch. If the cabinet finish is dingy overall and has lots of scratches, consider a wipe-on product like Old English Scratch Coat. These products can darken the finish slightly, so you have to apply them to all your cabinets.

Restore Free Flow to a Faucet

When a kitchen or bathroom faucet loses pressure or starts spraying to the side, it’s usually due to a dirty aerator screen. Luckily, cleaning a screen is an easy job. Start by closing the drain plug so you don’t drop parts down the drain. Then remove the aerator using a rag or masking tape so you don’t mar the finish with your pliers.

To remove the sand and other deposits, soak the aerator in vinegar, then scrub it with a toothbrush. This usually solves the problem. If you have to disassemble the aerator to clean it, lay out the parts in the order you removed them so you can reassemble them correctly.

Painting Kitchen Cabinets

Give new life to your old wood kitchen cabinets with a fresh coat of paint. But what is the best type of paint to use? For the best adhesion and a harder, more durable finish, an oil-based paint is tough to beat for kitchen cabinets. But you must be willing to put up with the strong odor and solvent cleanup, along with a longer drying and curing time than you’d get if you used an ordinary water-based paint. Plus, the color may yellow over time.

The best solution to avoid the hassle of oil-based paint is waterborne acrylic enamel paint  that delivers the good flow, leveling and hardening characteristics of an oil-based paint without the odor and long drying time. These paints dry fast and clean up with soap and water. The main challenge is a smooth finish, but pros say that if the waterborne acrylic enamel is applied heavily enough and worked in small sections, it will flatten out nicely. Avoid a dry brush and going over sections already starting to dry.

Don’t forget other keys to success when painting cabinets:

• Do plenty of surface preparation such as degreasing, cleaning and sanding.
• Prime the cabinets with a top-quality primer.
• Apply the paint with the best-quality brush for the type of paint.
• Allow the paint to dry fully by following the label directions.

Appliance Touch-up Paint

A single scratch or chip can make a beautiful new appliance look prematurely aged. Fortunately, fixing this is one of the easier quick home upgrades you can tackle. You can make those eyesores, even up to 1/4-in. diameter, almost completely vanish with color-matched epoxy touch-up paint. The trick? Fill the chip with multiple thin coats instead of trying to cover it all at once. Use the porcelain-type version for stovetops and sinks.

Kitchen Window Plant Perch

Do you like having fresh herbs at your fingertips? Keeping them on your counter takes up valuable space and doesn’t expose them to enough light. Try this easy storage idea: Install a wire shelf between the upper cabinets flanking your kitchen window. You can set your plants where they’ll get plenty of light without blocking the view. This also makes watering easy and keeps them readily available for snipping. Make sure to install the shelf high enough so you don’t bump into it when you’re working at the sink.

Add in Shelves

If you’re looking for some quick home upgrades, why not add in more shelving? Nearly every room can benefit from a little extra storage.

Above-the-Door Shelves

The space above a doorway is an overlooked storage bonanza! It’s the perfect spot for a cookbook cubby in the kitchen or a towel shelf in the bathroom. Consider adding a shelf or cubby over the doorways in your home office, laundry room and bedrooms too.

Spice Shelf

Spices are a pain to store. They get easily lost in your cabinets, so you end up buying duplicates when you can’t find what you need. Here’s a simple solution. Pick up a bag of adjustable shelf supports and a 1×4 board at a home center. Just measure the height of your tallest spices, measure down from your shelf, drill holes and mount your spice shelf on shelf supports. You’ll put an end to buying three tins of poultry seasoning and more bay leaves than you’ll use in a lifetime.

Hang a Shelf Over Your Towel Bar

For some reason, once the towel bar goes up, we don’t consider the wall usable for anything else. Why not hang a shelf for toiletries and decorative items? Just make sure to mount the shelf high enough so it allows easy access to your towels.

Install a New Tub and Shower Trim Kit

Give your shower an instant face-lift by swapping out your existing showerhead, handle and tub spout for new ones. To make this a painless switch, buy a trim kit that uses the existing trim valve. That way you won’t have to touch anything inside the wall. Before you buy, check the manufacturer’s reccomendations for specs, styles and finishes. Also check your tub spout to see if it slips on or is threaded so you can buy the right replacement.

Add a Second Medicine Cabinet and Shelves

Here’s a way to add even more storage and bump up the sophistication of your bathroom. Mount matching medicine cabinets and add shelves between them. To support these shelves, we drilled holes in the sides of the cabinets and inserted adjustable shelf pegs. The shelves are simply boards finished to match the cabinets. This makes the most of the wall space above your toilet and sink. You could also mount something similar over a double sink setup. The cabinets can be surface mounted or recessed. The shelves give the unit a nice finished quality.

Hang a Mirror Behind the Door

The wall behind the bathroom door goes unused because the door will hit anything that protrudes. Hang a mirror there. You’ll still be able to use the back of the door to hang robes and towels. The mirror will instantly make the bathroom feel larger. And it’s nice to be able to check whether your shirt is tucked in before you head out into the world.

Install a Curved Shower Curtain Rod

This is technically two quick home upgrades in one. A curved shower curtain rod is an affordable luxury that makes you feel a lot less claustrophobic taking a shower. Having just that extra few inches of space means you don’t constantly brush against the shower curtain every time you raise your arm. And a double curved shower curtain is just plain clever.

You can hang towels on the outer rod, which buys you drying space and puts your towel right where you need it. Or you can hang your liner and your curtain on separate rods. You may need an extra-long liner since the curve pulls the hem of the shower liner higher in the tub.

The post Quick Home Upgrades to Optimize Your Space appeared first on Family Handyman.

Get an ‘In-Person’ Quote

Ordering a garage door over the phone or online is asking for trouble. Every garage is a little different, and a knowledgeable salesperson will check details like opening size and shape, headroom and side clearance, and even help you make design decisions. And if something does go wrong, there won’t be any question about whose fault it is. So make sure you get a salesperson to come to your house and check out the situation before ordering a door.

Beware of Wood Doors

Real wood doors look fantastic when they’re new. But unless you’re willing to devote time and money to maintenance, they won’t look good for long. Natural finishes last a few years before they need recoating. And if you wait too long, you’ll have to sand off all the finish and start over to get your door looking new again.The good news is, you can get the look of wood for a fraction of the cost, and avoid the maintenance nightmare as well. The least expensive option is embossed steel with a faux wood-grain finish (less than$1,000).

From a distance, these doors look remarkably similar to real wood. If you’re willing to spend more ($2,500 and up), consider a garage door with a wood composite overlay or a fiberglass skin. Composites offer the look of real wood with the longevity and stability of plastic when you shop garage doors. If you’re looking for more options, then you can consider vinyl garage doors.

Upgrade Your Insulation

If you’re planning to buy an insulated door because you want to save energy or keep your garage warm, it’s worth spending about 15 to 20 percent extra to upgrade from extruded polystyrene to polyurethane insulation. The insulating effectiveness of a garage door is its R-value. The larger the number, the better it insulates. According to Clopay, upgrading from 2-in. polystyrene to its Intellicore (polyurethane) raises the insulating value from R-9 toR-18. That’s a lot of bang for the buck.

Pay a Little More for Beefier Springs

Springs are what help your garage door go up easily and come down slowly. Most garage doors use torsion springs. You can usually see these coiled torsion springs above the door. Standard torsion springs are rated for about 10,000 cycles. That may sound like a lot, but if you open and close your door six times a day, which is pretty average, you’ll reach 10,000 cycles in less than five years. Spending an extra $50 when you shop garage doors will buy you a spring rated for 20,000 cycles, twice the life for a few bucks more.

Buy a New Opener at the Same Time

The same person who installs your new door can also install a new garage door opener. Your opener will fail eventually, so if it’s showing its age or you just want a quieter opener or one with more features, this is the time to replace it. Replacing it along with the door will probably save you money on labor, and you may even be able to negotiate a package deal on the new door and opener.

Think Twice About Installing Your Own Door

You could save a few hundred dollars by installing the door yourself, but it’s one DIY project that doesn’t have a big payoff. Here’s why. For starters, there’s a ton of parts and it’ll take you at least a full day to put them together. Plus, winding the spring calls for special tools and lots of arm strength and is fairly dangerous. If you hire a pro to install the door, the new door will be delivered and the old one hauled away, and the job will be done in about four hours. And you’ll have someone to a call if there’s a problem.

Use Manufacturers’ Websites to Choose a Door Design

When you shop garage doors, you don’t have to guess how a particular style and color of door will look on your house when you check garage doors for sale online. Most manufacturers have software on their website that allows you to upload a photo of your garage and add any of their garage door styles to it. This lets you choose a door style, include the design features you like, pick windows and a color, and even add hardware. You can play around with different styles until you find one you like. Then print out the specs for an accurate price quote from your dealer to help you find cheap garage doors.

Choose Windows Wisely

You might be surprised how much better a garage door looks with the right windows. And beyond adding style, windows can supply much needed light to the garage interior. Here are a few tips for choosing glass:

• • If your garage is heated, upgrade to insulated glass.
  • For extra privacy and security, install the glass in the top panel.
  • Match the glass style to your house windows if possible.
  • If your garage door opening has angled rather than square corners, don’t install glass that goes behind them. It might look awkward.

Need a Quiet Door? Look for These Features

If you have an attached garage and want to minimize the racket caused by the garage door going up and down, choose a door with polyurethane insulation and nylon rollers. The garage door insulation dampens any vibrations that would normally be amplified by an uninsulated steel. And nylon rollers are simply quieter than metal ones. If you’re also planning to replace the garage door opener, look for an opener with a belt drive. They’re quieter than other types.

Choose 24-Gauge Steel

If you’re going to buy an uninsulated steel door, make sure it’s made from steel that’s at least 24-gauge. Many economy garage doors are made from 25-gauge or thinner steel (the bigger the number, the thinner the steel). Insulation helps reduce denting by providing a backer for the steel. Without this reinforcement, you need thicker steel to prevent dents.

The post 10 Things to Know Before Buying a Garage Door appeared first on Family Handyman.

Use the Door Rail as a Guide

The location of knobs and pulls isn’t written in stone, but there are some standard practices. One good rule of thumb is to line up a knob with the top of the bottom door rail. If you’re installing door pulls, line up the bottom of the pull with the top of the door rail. Always center them on the door stile.

Temporarily Attach the Hardware

If you’re not sure about where the knobs and pulls are to be installed, stick a piece of reusable putty adhesive to the hardware and try out different spots. Mark the one you like with a pencil and install the rest of the hardware accordingly. Reusable adhesive is available at hardware and art supply stores.

Templates Make the Job Easier

If you have more than a few knobs or pulls to install, use a template when you install cabinet hardware. A template makes the job go faster, increases uniformity and reduces the chance for mistakes across the cabinet set.

Cover Unused Holes with Tape

Store-bought templates and well-used homemade templates have a bunch of holes you won’t use on every job. Avoid using the wrong hole by sticking masking tape over the template and poking through only the holes you need. Instead of using a pencil to mark the location of the hole on the cabinet, use an awl. That way your drill bit won’t skate off in the wrong direction when you drill the hole.

Hide Old Holes With Back Plates

If you’re switching from a pull to a knob or you’d prefer to select pulls with a different hole pattern for your cabinets, you can cover the old holes or hide damaged surfaces with back plates. Home centers don’t have a huge selection, so consider buying from an online source. You’ll find hundreds to choose from.

Superglue the Knob

Oblong and rectangular knobs that fasten with a single screw are notorious for twisting over time. Thread sealant will keep a screw from coming loose from the knob, but it won’t necessarily stop the knob from twisting. To solve the problem, add a drop of superglue to the back of these types of knobs before you install them.

Make a Simple Drawer Template

If you don’t have a template, make one. This simple template consists of two pieces of wood and takes only a few minutes to make. This same template can be used for almost any size door and most hardware sizes.

Two-Sided Templates Prevent Tear-Out

If you’re having problems with the wood on the back of the cabinet doors tearing out every time you drill a hole, make a two-sided template. Make sure the spacer wood is close to the same size as the cabinet doors. The tighter the fit, the less chance of tear-out.

Use Thread Sealant to Keep the Screws Tight

Every time the screw in a knob works itself loose, the owners of those cabinets are going to think unflattering thoughts about whoever put them in. Avoid the problem by adding a dab of thread sealant to every screw you install.

Mix Putty to Match

If back plates won’t cover the old holes, use putty to fill them. The wood grain on cabinet doors and fronts usually varies in color, so take one of the doors to a hardware store or home center, and buy three different colors of putty. Buy one that matches the darkest grain, one that matches the lightest grain and one halfway between. Use the three to mix a custom color to fill the holes.

Install Hardware Higher on the Lowest Drawer

Most drawer pulls are centered on the drawer fronts, but if the cabinet you’re working on has two or three drawers the same size and one larger one at the bottom, install the bottom knob (or pull) higher than the center of that drawer front. Install it so all the knobs on the cabinet are spaced evenly. This configuration is pleasing to the eye, and you won’t have to bend over as far to open the bottom drawer.

Perfect Finish Touch-Ups

After you finish installing cabinet knobs, set aside a small container of the paint or finish used on the cabinets for future touch-ups. If the cabinet manufacturer didn’t include one with the cabinets, you can make one by cleaning out an old bottle of nail polish with nail polish remover and filling it with your paint or finish.

Adjust Hinges on Misaligned Doors

If your cabinet doors are out of whack and you have European-style hinges, you’re in luck. Euro hinges are designed for easy adjustment. Don’t let their complex look scare you; all you have to do is turn a few screws, and any mistakes you make are easy to correct. The Euro hinge shown here adjusts in three directions. Others adjust in two directions. Either way, it’s a trial-and-error process: You make adjustments, close the door to check the fit, then adjust again until it’s right.

First, if the door isn’t flush with the doors next to it, adjust the depth screw. This screw moves the door in or out. Some depth screws move the door as you turn them. But with most, you have to loosen the screw, nudge the door in or out and then tighten the screw. If your hinges don’t have depth screws, start with the side screws.

Second, if the door is crooked—not standing parallel to adjacent doors or square with the cabinet—adjust the side screw. This moves the door from side to side. In some cases, you have to loosen the depth screw slightly to adjust the side screw.

Third, if the door is flush and parallel with other doors but too high or low, use the mounting screws to raise or lower the mounting plates. Loosen the screws at both hinges, slide the door up or down and tighten the screws. Some mounting plates adjust by turning a single screw.

The post 13 Tips To Install Cabinet Hardware Perfectly Every Time appeared first on Family Handyman.

Use a Stain-Blocking Primer to Cover Flaws

Roof leaks, overflowing sinks, tobacco smoke and big spills can all leave ugly ceiling stains or dinginess that is impossible to conceal with plain old paint. But cover the stain with a coat of stain-blocking primer and your troubles are over.

The traditional favorite is white pigmented shellac. You can buy spray cans of pigmented shellac, but usually it’s easier to brush it on. Just don’t forget to pick up some ammonia or denatured alcohol to clean your brush. If you’re painting over a ceiling that’s yellow from smoke, roll a coat of shellac over the entire ceiling before painting with latex.

Sand Before You Paint

Over time, and as the layers of paint build up, bumps and crud can get stuck to the ceiling. On untextured ceilings, it’s a good idea to start with a quick once-over sanding with 100-grit drywall sanding paper. This helps ensure a perfectly smooth paint job and increases paint bonding. The easiest way to do this is with a sanding pole. When you’re done sanding, wipe the ceiling with a damp sponge to remove the dust.

Cut in Before You Roll

Cutting in before you roll allows you to cover most of the brush marks with the roller. Carefully brush paint along the edge of the ceiling a section at a time. Cut in about 10 linear ft. and then roll that section. This method has a couple of advantages over cutting in the entire room at once. First, the cut-in section will remain wet until you roll, so it blends in better. Also, it’s simply less boring to alternate between cutting in and rolling.

Roll Both Directions

There are a few tricks to getting a smooth, consistent coat of paint on the ceiling. First, work in sections about 5 or 6 ft. square. Move quickly from one section to the next to make sure the paint along the edge doesn’t dry before you roll paint on the adjoining section. This is called “keeping a wet edge” and is the key to avoiding lap marks. You’ll get the best coverage by immediately re-rolling each section at a right angle to your first roller direction as you go.

Buy Special Ceiling Paint

While there are exceptions, in general you’ll get the best results with paint that’s formulated for a ceiling application. For a ceiling, you want paint that doesn’t spatter, has a long open time (dries slowly), and is flat instead of glossy. Most ceiling paints are formulated with these qualities. And of course you can have ceiling paint tinted if you want a color other than “ceiling white.”

Lap Your Cut-In Onto the Walls

If you’re planning to paint the walls too, lap the paint onto the walls a little bit. Then when you paint the walls, you can err on the side of leaving a little ceiling color showing when you cut in and it won’t be noticeable. Some painters like to skip this cutting-in step and save time by mashing the roller into the corner instead, but this method is sloppy, builds up excess paint in the corner and can leave runs or a thick paint line on the wall.

Don’t Be Afraid of Color

You may not want to paint your ceiling yellow, but don’t be afraid to deviate from plain old white. Painting the ceiling a color can make a small room seem bigger, or a room with a high ceiling seem more intimate. Plus, it’s just more interesting. Ask at any full-service paint store for help in choosing complementary wall and ceiling colors, or search online for examples of rooms you like.

You Don’t Need an Expensive Pole

You can buy all kinds of fancy—and expensive—extendable paint poles, but a simple wooden broom handle usually works just as well. The reasons are simple. They’re cheap and light and do the job.

Use a Thick, Premium Cover

Here’s a tip that applies to most paint jobs but is even more important for ceilings. You want to get as much paint on the ceiling as you can in the shortest amount of time possible while minimizing spatters. To do this, you need the best roller cover you can buy. The best choice is a 1/2-in.-nap lambswool cover. If you’ve never tried a lambswool roller cover, you owe it to yourself to experience the difference. And if you’re worried about the cost, keep in mind that lambswool covers are easy to clean and can last a long time if you take good care of them.

Roll Gently on Textured Ceilings

Painting textured ceilings is a bit of a crapshoot. If the texture has been painted over already, it’s probably safe to paint again. If the texture has never been painted, there’s a risk the water in the paint could loosen the texture, causing it to fall off in sheets. A lot depends on the quality of the texturing job. If you have a closet or other inconspicuous area, do a test by rolling on some paint to see what happens. If the texture loosens, painting over the larger ceiling is risky.

If possible, spray on the paint—it’s less likely to loosen the texture than rolling. But spraying in an occupied house is usually impractical. The best tip for rolling on paint is to avoid overworking the paint. Just roll the paint on and leave it. Don’t go back and forth with the roller, as this is likely to pull the texture from the ceiling. If the ceiling needs another coat of paint, wait for the first coat to dry completely. Then roll another coat perpendicular to the first one using the same careful technique.

Feather Out the Paint Where You Can’t Keep a Wet Edge

When interior painting, you can’t cover large areas like ceilings, extra-tall walls or stairwells in single, continuous strokes, so the best way to minimize lap marks on these areas is to feather out the paint along the edges that you can’t keep wet. The thinner, feathered coat of paint will avoid the buildup that causes the lap mark. To paint a large section without leaving lap marks, roll the nearly dry roller in different directions along the dry edge, feathering out the paint as you go. After completing the entire length of the wall or ceiling, move to the next section and paint over the feathered edges. For the second coat, apply the paint in the opposite direction. This crisscrossing paint application sharply reduces (if not eliminates) lap marks.

Groove Textured Ceilings

It’s almost impossible to paint right next to rough-textured ceilings (a process called “cutting in”) without getting paint on the ceiling. Taping off the ceiling doesn’t work either. The solution? Knock off the texture at the edge with a putty knife. Hold the knife at a 45-degree angle to the wall and run the blade along the edge of the ceiling. The blade scrapes away the texture and leaves a small groove in the ceiling. Clean out the groove with a duster or a dry paintbrush. Now when you cut in along the top of the wall, the paintbrush bristles will slide into the groove, giving you a crisp paint line without getting paint on the ceiling. And you’ll never notice the thin line of missing texture.

Avoid Paint Freckles

Rolling paint on the ceiling showers you with a fine mist. A baseball cap is essential, and safety glasses let you watch your work without squinting. To make skin cleanup easier, rub lotion on your face, arms and hands. At the end of the day, your paint freckles will wash right off.

The post Painting a Ceiling? These Pro Tips Will Make It Easier appeared first on Family Handyman.

Get Rid of Excess Humidity

Install Insulation

One of the best ways to get rid of moisture in basement is to make it difficult for it to enter in the first place. Well placed insulation will help to cut down on condensation.

Pipes

Condensation dripping from cold pipes can contribute to basement water problems. Cover cold water pipes with foam pipe insulation to stop condensation. The foam insulation is inexpensive and easy to cut with scissors, so you can install this yourself.

Walls

Insulate exterior walls to prevent condensation. In cold climates, wall insulation in the basement also saves energy and reduces your heating bill. But don’t cover the walls with insulation if water is leaking in from outside; you’ll just create a potential mold problem.

Keep Water Away From the Foundation

If your basement leaks after heavy rains or after snow melts, your yard needs better drainage. It starts by making sure water is diverted away from your foundation may solve the problem. It’s common for the soil alongside your house to settle over time, creating a moat that collects runoff and directs it down your foundation wall and into the basement. Lawn edging and gravel along the foundation can make things worse.

Solve the problem by creating a 6-ft.-wide slope that drops about 4 in. away from the foundation. For extra insurance, cover the sloping soil with a layer of 6-mil poly. Then hide the poly with mulch, gravel or a layer of soil covered with grass. This will keep water from soaking in near the foundation.

Add Gutters and Extend Downspouts

If your basement leaks after it rains and you don’t have gutters, consider adding them. Gutters catch the rain and channel it to the downspouts, which direct it away from the house. Whether you’re installing new gutters or already have them, be sure the downspouts have 4- to 6-ft. horizontal extensions to move the water away from the house.

Plug Holes and Cracks in the Foundation

Holes and cracks in your foundation can let moisture and water seep into your basement. Plugging them probably won’t solve basement leaks, but it’ll help. Hydraulic cement works great for patching holes in a foundation because it can set up even under water, and it expands as it sets to seal the hole and lock the plug in place. Use a cold chisel or an angle grinder fitted with a masonry-cutting disc or diamond blade to enlarge the hole or crack into an inverted “V,” with the narrow part of the “V” on the surface of the wall. Then follow the package instructions for mixing and using the hydraulic cement.

Waterproof the Walls

Waterproof wall coatings that go on like paint fill the pores in the concrete or masonry walls and prevent water from leaking in. To be effective, these coatings must be applied to bare concrete or masonry walls. Start by removing loose material with a wire brush. Then clean off any white powdery “efflorescence” with masonry cleaner. Follow the safety and application instructions carefully.

A common mistake when using masonry waterproofing products is to spread them too thin. The goal is to fill every pinhole to create a continuous waterproofing membrane. Brush the coating in all directions to completely fill every pinhole. Add a second coat after the first dries.

Install a Drainage System

The best permanent fix to get rid of moisture in your basement is to install drainage tubing below the basement floor that’s connected to a sump basket and pump. You can install a system like this yourself, but breaking out the concrete floor, burying the tubing, and patching the floor is a lot of backbreaking work. So you may want to spring for professionals for this step, if you’ve got the budget.

Install Drainage Mats for a Warmer, Drier Floor

Plastic drainage mats, or dimple mats, allow air to circulate under the basement flooring and provide a moisture barrier. They also provide an insulating layer of air that separates the floor from cold concrete, reducing the potential for moisture damage from condensation or water vapor migrating through the concrete.at look like tile. Floating luxury vinyl floors connect with self-adhesive tabs or interlocking edges.

The post 8 Ways To Get Rid of Moisture In Your Basement For Good appeared first on Family Handyman.

Do You Need To Clean Inside a Washing Machine?

Washing machines can easily collect dirt, bacteria and even fungus over time, so they need to be cleaned regularly. This includes the rubber seal, tub and detergent dispenser. “Regular cleaning helps maintain efficiency, prevent odors and extend the lifespan of the machine,” Carpenter says.

Methods To Clean a Washing Machine

There are two primary methods of cleaning a washing machine: Run the machine’s clean cycle (if it has one) or add bleach to a hot water cycle.

Running a Cleaning Cycle

If your washing machine is a newer model, it likely has a cleaning cycle function. This might be labeled as “Clean” or “Tub Clean” on your machine, along with a corresponding indicator light. Some manufacturers recommend using a special washing machine cleaner, or you can use distilled white vinegar. Here’s how:

• Ensure the tub and detergent dispenser are empty.
• If using a washing machine cleaner, follow the manufacturer’s directions.
• If using vinegar, add two cups directly to the tub for top-loading machines. For front-loaders, add to the detergent dispenser.
• Start the cleaning cycle.
• Once finished, use a clean rag or paper towel to wipe down the inside of the drum.
• Leave the door open to allow the machine to air dry.

Cleaning with Bleach

If your washing machine doesn’t have a clean cycle, use hot water and bleach. “This process helps eliminate odors, mold and detergent buildup, ensuring your washing machine stays fresh and hygienic,” Carpenter says.

Here are the steps:

• Ensure the tub and detergent dispenser are empty.
• Add a 1/2 cup bleach to your machine. For front loaders, use the detergent dispenser. For top loaders, pour the bleach directly in the tub.
• “Run the longest, hottest cycle possible,” McAllister says, to thoroughly clean and rinse the machine.
• Once the cycle is finished, wipe the inside of the drum with a clean rag or paper towel.
• “To eliminate any remaining bleach, run an additional rinse cycle with water,” Carpenter says.
• Leave the door open to allow the machine to air dry.

How To Get Rid of Smells In a Washing Machine

If your washing machine still smells after cleaning the drum, it may need a deeper clean. For front-loaders, start by wiping the rubber seal with a paper towel to remove any sludge or water, then scrub with bleach. “Use a paper towel to wipe out the rubber seal of your machine, pulling out any built-up sludge or sitting water,” McAllister says.

Remove and soak the detergent drawer in hot water, scrubbing all parts. If mold is present, add bleach. Rinse and let air dry.

For top-loaders, wipe down the agitator and door edges with a damp rag to remove dirt and detergent residue.

How Often To Clean a Washing Machine

McAllister recommends running a bleach or cleaning cycle monthly and completing a deep clean of the inside and outside of your washing machine twice yearly.

FAQ

Why does my washing machine smell moldy?

If your washing machine has a funny odor, it can indicate mold. If so, chances are that, like most people, you leave the washer door closed between loads. This prevents the interior from drying out and can promote mold growth. “It’s so important to keep your door and drawer slightly ajar between washes to prevent mold and mildew from growing in the first place,” McAllister says.

Why does my washing machine keep saying clean filter?

If you’ve cleaned your washing machine filter, and you’re still getting a “clean filter” indicator, you may have a larger issue. This can indicate a clog in the drain pump, a kinked or clogged drain hose or a clogged filter. Check your drain hose, refer to your owner’s manual for drain pump issues and re-clean your filter.

Is there a difference between cleaning a front-loading and a top-loading washing machine?

The door seal on front-loading washing machines makes them more challenging to clean, as it requires regular maintenance and can promote mold growth inside the tub. “You will usually have a much easier time cleaning a top loader as they don’t tend to have the same mold problems, and they don’t have the same tricky seal to clean,” McAllister says.

If your front-loading washing machine has persistent mold issues, run the empty washer through a cycle once a month with a mold cleaner designed for front loaders. Our appliance expert recommends a product called Affresh.

About the Experts

• Sarah McAllister is founder and CEO of GoCleanCo and House Work, a popular website offering home cleaning tips, advice and product recommendations.
• Justin Carpenter is the CEO of Modern Maids, a leading national house cleaning provider since 2017.

The post Simple Steps to a Spotless Washing Machine appeared first on Family Handyman.

As with other stains, it’s important to treat these mystery stains before the clothes go into the dryer. Heat can set them, just as it will set a chocolate or wine stain on your favorite shirt. Treat the stain and then toss the garment back in the washing machine. Inspect it again and only run it through the dryer once the stain has fully disappeared.

Where Did These Blue Stains Come From?

According to Whirlpool, the most likely culprit behind these blue stains on your clothes is your detergent. You might not be washing your clothing at the right temperature for your detergent, or you may be using too much. You need far less detergent per load than you think; a little bit goes a long way. To troubleshoot, start with the basics. Reread the instructions on your bottle or box to make sure you’re using it correctly.

You should also make sure you’re putting it in the washing machine correctly. Different machines and detergent styles require different loading. While you’re at it, make sure that your machine is clean; buildup from previous loads is a problem, too.

What If My Dryer Drum Is Stained Blue?

Whirlpool says that a blue dryer drum is the result of dye transfer, generally from items like new blue jeans or heavily dyed clothing. If you want to mitigate this, the company suggests turning your clothing inside out before putting it in the dryer.

According to Whirlpool, this type of staining should not transfer from the drum to your wet laundry. However, it’s still a good idea to clean the staining if you’ve got the time and energy, just to be safe. Make it a part of your routine; you can tackle it while you’re deep cleaning your lint trap.

Sources

How to Get Detergent Stains Out of Clothes, Whirpool.

Dryer Drum Stained or Dye Transfer, Whirpool.

The post Here’s Why Clothes Turn Blue In the Wash appeared first on Family Handyman.