As solar installer Ben Zook explains: “Any system that uses a mechanical pump, an inverter, or other electrical conversion device is not truly ‘passive.’ That means that the only remaining way to have a truly passive solar system is by using the greenhouse effect… the same as an actual greenhouse!”

The transparent walls of a greenhouse allow radiation from the sun to provide indoor climate control, and while that’s a well-known example of passive solar design, it isn’t the only one. I sought help from a panel of home efficiency experts to get a clear idea of what defines passive solar design and how to use it effectively to stay comfortable and save energy.

What Is Passive Solar?

According to environmentalist Aidan Charron: “Passive solar refers to the use of natural sunlight to heat and light your home without using solar panels or arrays or anything mechanical. Instead, you use natural sunlight and exposure to the sun itself to organically capture heat and light inside your home. It’s achieved through clever design features and pre-planning.”

Elements of Passive Solar Design

We all use passive solar already, says Zook. “Imagine living without any sunlight, and you might understand how we ALL use sunlight. Most of it is passive, in one form or another.” When it comes to optimizing the use of solar energy in construction, builders use five strategies:

Orientation

The main wall of the building should be facing in the direction of the sun to maximize heat absorption. In the Northern Hemisphere, this means that it should face in a southerly direction and avoid, as much as possible, trees and landforms that block the sun.

Thermal mass

The materials you use to construct the building should be able to absorb heat and sunlight. Materials such as concrete, brick and stone — and even water stored in barrels — are very effective. They can absorb a lot of heat during the day and release it at night to help keep the building warm. “How well thermal mass works depends on its bulk, thickness, and where it is placed,” advises underfloor heating expert Gordon Chalk. “For it to work best, it needs to be either connected to a warm place or put in full sunlight.”

Windows/glazing

Windows that face south help maximize solar exposure. High-performance windows with low-E treatments and gas fills are best, says Chalk, because they help retain heat. As he says: “Picking windows is important! For windows facing south, choose SHGC (Solar Heat Gain Coefficient) numbers that are high to get the most heat from the sun. To help keep your home cooler in the summer, think about lowering the SHGC of windows that face east and west.”

Insulation

Insulation is a no-brainer. It helps maximize heat retention during the day and minimize heat loss at night. “Focus on continuous insulation to cut down on thermal bridging, which are spots where heat can easily leave,” says Chalk. “Because they often have weak spots, pay extra attention to the areas around doors and windows.”

Shade and ventilation

You need to optimize the use of shade and ventilation if you want your house to stay cool in the summer. Chalk advises using overhangs, awnings, trees, and even well-planned planting to help block the sun. Adjustable shade is best. “When curtains are pulled back in the winter, they let more light in. In the winter, deciduous trees lose their leaves, and in the summer, they provide shade, which lets the sun shine on the building.” It’s also advantageous to deploy fans throughout the house to keep air circulating.

Types of Passive Solar

Builders can approach passive solar design in four ways:

Direct gain

This is the most popular passive solar technique. The most obvious example is orienting windows toward the sun, thereby allowing the sun’s radiation to enter the living space directly and heat up the thermal mass in the walls and floor. The downside is that direct gain techniques, when not used correctly, cause glare and burning, so they need to be used in conjunction with shading solutions.

Indirect gain

The most common indirect gain mechanism is called a trombe wall, which is a dark-glazed wall, usually eight to 16 inches thick, placed behind a glass barrier with a 3/4-inch separation. “The wall that gets hot from the sun moves the heat into the sitting area,” explains Chalk. “The more controlled way that trombone walls let heat out is not possible with direct gain systems. On top of that, they protect against pretty big changes in temperature.”

Isolated gain

Charron explains: “Isolated gain is when the heat hits a sun room or even a greenhouse and then radiates into any adjoining rooms through vents or internal windows.” One of the advantages of this technique is that you can use it on an existing structure that hasn’t already been optimized for solar gain.

Roofing

So far, we’ve focused on walls, but roofer Brian Davis adds this: “Roofing is a key element of passive solar design, playing a crucial role in regulating heat absorption and reflection…Lighter-colored roofs reflect sunlight, reducing heat absorption and keeping homes cooler, while darker roofs retain warmth to help with heating.”

Does Passive Solar Really Save Money on Utilities?

Yes. All the experts I interviewed would agree with this assessment from Zook: “It can and usually does. Especially when done right, passive solar design will save you money on utilities.” According to Davis, even installing a new roof can cut energy costs by 10 to 15 percent.

Passive Solar Pros and Cons

Pros

• Energy savings
• Low maintenance
• Eco-friendly
• Improved comfort

Cons

• Dependent on climate
• Temperature fluctuations that can be difficult to control
• Design complexity leading to high up-front costs
• Usually requires additional active heating

FAQ

What is the difference between passive and active solar energy?

Passive solar design relies on building placement, materials and the surrounding landscape while active solar is concerned with techniques for converting sunlight into energy. Chalk puts it this way: “Active solar is more about technology, while passive solar is more about how it is set up.” Solar panels passively collect sunlight, but because they convert it to electricity, they are part of an active energy system.

Is passive solar heating efficient?

“It can be if you design your home to maximize sunlight capture and have a system to block the sunlight when it gets too warm,” says Charron. “It’s a smart way to naturally make our homes more energy smart.” All panel members agreed.

Is passive solar better for heating or cooling?

Generally, passive solar is better for heating, but if you use shade and ventilation properly, it can also help keep your house cool. One effective cooling technique, according to Chalk, is to open windows at night to reduce thermal mass.

About the Experts

• Ben Zook is the owner and NABCEP Certified Master Electrician at Belmont Solar. He specializes in solar installation, including grid-tied, off-grid, and solar battery backup systems.
• Brian Davis is the AIA, LEED AP, GRP, and Technical Support Director at Brava Roof Tile.
• Gordon Chalk is the managing director at Next Level Underfloor Heating and Screed Solutions LTD, based in the UK.
• Aidan Charron is the Associate Director of Earthday.org and is a global leader of the Planet vs Plastics campaign.

The post What Is Passive Solar Design? appeared first on Family Handyman.

What Is Electric Wallpaper?

Electric wallpaper is typically installed on ceilings. It contains thin strips of copper and graphene, which utilize infrared technology to produce heat. Michelle Ansell, Project Manager for electric wallpaper manufacturer NexGen, explains that this low-level, invisible-to-the-naked-eye light works similarly to how the sun provides warmth.

Traditional convection systems heat the surrounding air, but infrared heats people and objects directly. “The energy from infrared sinks directly into us humans first,” Ansell explains. “Then it’s absorbed into and stored within the furniture and fabric of the building. So walls, floors, and everything you touch has a comfortable, even temperature.”

Ansell explains that the NexGen investors wanted to tackle fuel poverty and provide a low-cost, low-carbon, efficient and green heating technology. “Currently, in the UK, we’re targeting social housing,” she says. “We’ve got pilots running up and up and down the country.”

One of the major pilots involves a collaboration between researchers at Strathclyde and Glasgow Universities, Glasgow City Council and the West of Scotland Housing Association, with funding from Scotland Beyond Net Zero. Scotland has an ambitious target to reach net zero greenhouse gases by 2045. Given 84 percent of Scottish homes use gas heating, clean energy alternatives to fossil fuels are a priority.

The trials are focusing on social housing in old, poorly insulated, mold-prone tenement buildings in Glasgow, and so far, the feedback and results have been positive.

Benefits of Electric Wallpaper

Below are some reasons why silent, inconspicuous electric wallpaper has the potential to be a viable alternative to traditional home heating methods.

Energy-efficient and eco-friendly

Electric wallpaper is an energy-efficient, low-carbon home heating option that doesn’t rely on fossil fuels. Hooking the electrics up to roof solar panels makes it even more eco-friendly and cuts your heating bills further.

Electric wallpaper heats rooms quickly (within minutes), and because the heat sinks into the objects, the room retains warmth well after you switch it off. Electric wallpaper also covers a large surface area, producing a consistent temperature across the room. Ansell says this avoids those cold spots you get from convection heaters, making it especially useful for hard-to-heat homes. “Every time you open a window or a door, that warm air is not escaping because we’re not heating the air,” she says.

“The efficiencies also come because you don’t have to heat the whole home,” Ansell says. “Each room becomes its own targeted individual zone.”

Protects against mold

Mold thrives on damp surfaces prone to gathering condensation. Because the infrared technology of electric wallpaper generates warmth on and within the surfaces of your home, it can effectively wick away mold-encouraging moisture.

Ansell explains that smart technology monitors humidity levels. “If it senses you’re at a point where condensation, damp and mold can form, there is an override switch that can automatically kick in to raise the room’s temperature,” she says.

Affordable to buy and install

Exact prices are not yet available in the U.S. However, despite electric wallpaper being a new-to-the-market product, you don’t have to worry about it costing an arm and a leg.

“In the UK at the moment, we are cheaper than an air source heat pump in terms of physical product and installation,” Ansell says. “We are on par or cheaper than a gas boiler.”

Easy to install

You don’t want to DIY install electric wallpaper unless you’re a licensed electrician. However, it’s usually easier and quicker to install than a gas boiler or furnace. A decorator can install the rolls of wallpaper to your ceiling with a standard adhesive, and then an electrician will wire it in. “When we install it, all the cables get hidden behind coving or trunking in rooms, just to tidy them away,” Ansell says. You can then paint the ceiling as you would normally. “The only caveat is you can’t put black paint on it,” Ansell says. “It affects the efficiency of the infrared energy coming into the room.”

Low-maintenance

Another cost-saving and convenient benefit of electric wallpaper is that it’s low maintenance. Ansell describes it as “fit-and-forget.”

“We give a 15-year guarantee, but really, it’s the lifetime of the house because there are no moving parts to it, and it’s out of reach,” she says. “The paper is fireproof and water-resistant as well.”

Space-saving

Electric wallpaper can be beneficial in small, multifunctional rooms with limited wall space. Ansell says the ceiling installation gives people back the space in front of the radiators.

Drawbacks of Electric Wallpaper

While the trial results are encouraging, electric wallpaper is a new product. Data on true longevity, running costs, and efficiency are still being scrutinized.

Plus, if you’re installing electric wallpaper in an existing home rather than a new build construction, you need to factor in the costs associated with removing the existing heating system, and you’ll also need a water heating system.

Ansell explains that, with the ceiling installation, electric wallpaper is less prone to damage. However, she cautions, “If you’re moving tall furniture around that might scrape the ceiling, that might damage it.”

Is Electric Wallpaper Available in the U.S.?

Electric wallpaper isn’t currently widely available in the U.S. However, Ansell explains that NexGen is on track to introduce its product to the U.S. homeowner market in the summer of 2025.

About the Expert

• Michelle Ansell is a Project Manager at NexGen Carbon Zero Limited. The company specializes in electric wallpaper production with the goal of decarbonizing heating and providing affordable warmth; video interview, Oct. 31, 2024.

The post Hot Trends in Home Heating: Electric Wallpaper appeared first on Family Handyman.

I purchased my first home in 2003, but its gas furnace looked like it was manufactured during the Carter administration. It cost a huge amount of money to operate and habitually switched itself off at inopportune times. We gave it a nickname, Clarice, because we had to visit so frequently to relight the pilot light.

Knowing what I know now, I could probably have squeezed a few more years of service from Clarice. Instead, we went ahead and replaced it. That’s when I started to get smart about furnaces.

Clarice was indeed an inefficient relic and should have been replaced sooner. Modern furnaces must hit an annual fuel utilization efficiency (AFUE) rate of 80 percent, and no repair could bring Clarice to those standards. These days, gas furnaces are even more efficient — some close to 100 percent — and they don’t fill the atmosphere with pollutants.

If you’re moving into your first home, say goodbye to the halcyon days of complaining to the landlord when your furnace doesn’t work. It’s worth taking the time to know your furnace better. That way you can give it the TLC it needs, and tell the difference between repairs you can do yourself and those that need professional attention.

Also, discover this simple furnace trick that will refresh your entire home.

What Is a Furnace?

A furnace is an appliance that generates heat — usually enough to supply an entire building. It does this by burning a fuel or passing electricity through resistive heating elements.

A furnace isn’t the same as a heat pump, which transfers heat from outdoors into the building. If your central heat system doesn’t include an air conditioner, and it’s connected to an outdoor unit with a fan, you have a heat pump that requires different maintenance than a furnace.

If you’re looking for a simple, reliable, space-saving heat source, here is everything you need to know about wall furnaces.

How Does a Furnace Work?

A furnace works in conjunction with a room thermostat and an electronic control panel.

When the thermostat detects the room temperature has fallen below its preset minimum, it sends a signal to the control system to switch on the heat. A blower housed in a structure called the air handler also switches on and circulates warm air through the ductwork system.

Many homeowners find furnaces intimidating because of complicated control system. Furnaces contain safety sensors, switches and high-limit fuses that wear out or malfunction periodically. While homeowners can address some of these issues, diagnosis and repair are usually best left to a qualified technician.

Types of Furnaces

Virtually all modern furnaces are housed in rectangular metal boxes and classified by the type of fuel used. Most furnaces operate in conjunction with an air handler that connects to the supply and the return ducts. That’s where the blower is located. Air handlers may be separate from the furnace.

Electric

Electric furnaces feature a high-voltage heating element. The blower draws air into the heating element, then circulates it back through the ducts. Electric furnaces have no combustion chamber and don’t require a flue.

Standard-efficiency natural gas/propane

These require a combustion chamber and a flue. Heat created in the sealed combustion chamber is transferred to the blower through a thermally conductive plate called a heat exchanger. Combustion gases exhaust through the flue, which extends through the roof into the open air.

High-efficiency natural gas/propane

Also known as condensing furnaces, these have an AFUE greater than 90.

Instead of a flue, they utilize a secondary heat exchanger, basically a set of coils where combustion gases cool and condense. Condensation produces heat, which combines with the heat from the primary exchanger and circulates via the blower. The byproduct, known as condensate, is carried away by a PVC drain that extends through the wall.

Heating oil

Like standard efficiency gas furnaces, oil-burning furnaces also feature a combustion chamber, heat exchanger and exhaust flue. A fuel pump sprays oil into the combustion chamber. Oil-burning furnaces are popular in regions of the Northern U.S. and Canada where fuel oil may be cheaper than gas.

How Long Does a Furnace Last?

Electric furnaces tend to last longer that gas or oil furnaces (up to 20 years) because they contain fewer parts and no combustion chamber. A gas or oil furnace can last for 15 years. It isn’t unusual for homeowners to keep their furnaces longer than that, but performance usually suffers.

How to Maintain a Furnace

The top maintenance task for homeowners with a furnace is replacing the air filters regularly. There’s one in the air handler and usually one in the main return register in the house. This should be done every three months of continuous operation to maintain furnace performance and keep the indoor air free of contaminants.

Other important maintenance tasks include:

• Clean the blower: At least once a year, turn the furnace off, let it cool, open the air handler and brush dust off the blower fins and the motor. If you notice squeaking or grinding sounds when the blower is running, spray some lubricant along the axis where the fins rotate.
• Dust off the heat exchanger: Dust inhibits heat flow. Wipe it off with a dry rag.
• Inspect the ducts: Look for holes, tears or gaps in the ductwork and patch them with aluminum foil tape (not duct tape).

If you own a gas furnace, do these additional tasks:

• Check the ignition system and flame condition: Remove the front cover and have someone turn on the furnace while you watch to make sure the ignition system is working properly. All the flames should be blue. If any are orange or yellow, or they sputter, the burners need to be professionally cleaned.
• Clean the flame sensor: Once a year, remove the flame sensor following the instructions in your owner’s manual, and clean it with sandpaper. Over time, it tends to be covered in soot that it can’t detect a flame and shuts down the furnace.

Furnace Troubleshooting

Furnace malfunctions usually mean something is wrong with the control circuitry or the thermostat settings. Always check the thermostat before assuming anything else is wrong.

It’s also important to check the circuit breaker that controls the furnace to make sure it hasn’t tripped. If your gas furnace shuts down frequently, try cleaning the flame sensor. Other problems are best left to pros for diagnosis and repair.

Note: If you smell gas in the furnace room, turn off the furnace and call an HVAC technician immediately.

How Much Does It Cost to Replace a Furnace?

Depending on the type of furnace, it can run from $3,000 to $7,600, including labor and permits. Electric furnaces are easiest to replace and cost the least, while high-efficiency gas furnaces cost the most.

Furnace Alternatives

A heat pump is a viable alternative to a furnace in many parts of North America except for those with extremely cold temperatures. Contemporary models can heat a home when the outdoor temperature is minus-10 degrees. Beginning in 2023, the federal government will offer incentives for homeowners looking to install a new one.

A wood stove or pellet stove can efficiently heat a home with an open floor plan. A hydronic heat system with a central boiler and radiators, baseboard heaters or in-floor pipes spread throughout the house is an increasingly popular heating option.

Also, if you want to increase livable space in your home, consider moving the furnace into the attic.

Furnace FAQs: Common Questions and Parts Explained

Whether you’re trying to understand how your furnace works or troubleshooting issues, here are the answers to some of the most common furnace questions.

• How Does a Gas Furnace Work?
• What Are Furnace Energy Efficiency Ratings?
• Understanding the Different Parts of a Furnace
• What That Furnace Switch Is For
• What Is a Furnace Heat Exchanger?
• What Is a Furnace Inducer Motor?
• What Does a Furnace Pressure Switch Do?
• How Much Will It Cost to Replace a Furnace Blower Motor?
• Boilers vs. Furnaces: What’s the Difference?
• How to Choose Between a Heat Pump vs. a Furnace

The post A Homeowner’s Guide to Furnaces appeared first on Family Handyman.

Actually, engineers and scientists are working on ways to integrate solar beyond rooftop panels. They’re figuring out ways to collect the sun’s energy on everything from car rooftops, parking shelters and even the roof shingles of our homes.

“For the past decade, solar, integrated shingles have been the Holy Grail for roofers who are interested in solar,” says Matt Weiner of Golden Group Roofing and Solar. “But because it’s currently an expensive product, it really only appeals to a relatively small part of the market.” Ahead, learn more about this game-changing solar product, including costs, installation considerations and future projections.

What Are Solar Roof Shingles?

Solar roof shingles collect energy from the sun like traditional solar panels. But instead of being installed above the roof, they’re the actual roofing. A typical installation combines regular shingles on shady sections of the roof with solar shingles in the sunniest areas.

Several companies make solar shingles, each with its own style. Tesla and GAF Energy are the largest manufacturers.

“They each have unique designs which integrate into the roofing system for an aesthetically pleasing look,” says Weiner. “Suntegra and Luma are more niche manufacturers. Their solar shingles are similar to solar panels and use common solar materials which are integrated into a watertight frame.”

Are Solar Roof Shingles Legal?

Yes. Solar shingles must go through the same rigorous testing as other home electrical systems to become Underwriters Laboratory (UL) approved. However, manufacturers don’t have certified contractors in every state.

How Much Do Solar Roof Shingles Cost?

That depends. Variables include the size of the system and where you are in the country. But in general, installed solar shingles cost around five times as much as traditional roofing materials. If you measure their cost in watt hours, solar shingles cost between 25% and 100% or more per watt hour than traditional solar panels.

Some of that cost is offset by not buying and installing a separate roof covering. But with current technologies, it still costs considerably more than purchasing the two separately.

“It makes sense if the technology is there to combine them into one product and one installation,” says Weiner. “Theoretically that’s going to be a cost savings, but there’s still probably another generation or two to really get us there.”

Are Solar Roof Shingles Rebates and Tax Breaks Available?

Yes. Solar roof shingles are eligible for the same rebates and tax breaks as solar panels. This includes a 30% federal tax credit and other state and local tax incentives, some associated with the Inflation Reduction Act.

Bonus: Because you’re replacing the roof as part of the installation, the tax credit covers the cost of the entire roof and solar system, versus just the cost of the solar panels.

Are Solar Roof Shingles Worth It?

Maybe. If you can afford them, they’re a good option for combining a sleek aesthetic with the benefits of solar.

“I do think it’s worth it,” says Weiner. “But only for the right customer. Solar shingles appeal to someone who really wants their house to stand out and is willing to pay for that.”

Solar roof shingle pros

• Curb appeal;
• Less chance of leaking as one company installs the roof and panels;
• Similar life span to traditional solar panels and roofs;
• Durability, especially in high wind areas.

Solar roof shingle cons

• Cost;
• Not as efficient in watt hours, so it’s harder to maximize rooftop energy production;
• Not as good for hot climates, since there’s no airspace underneath for cooling (when solar materials get warm, the voltage drops);
• No passive home cooling effect like with solar panels, which add shade to the roof and reduce heat transfer from the sun into the house.

The Future of Solar Roof Shingles

“To date, solar shingles have not lived up to their promise of providing homeowners with cost-effective, highly efficient and aesthetically pleasing solar systems,” says Weiner. “But ultimately they will be the go-to solar product.”

Weiner says GAF Energy, one of the largest roofing manufacturers in the country (and his former employer), wants to make the technology worthwhile on a large scale. The company just built a second manufacturing plant while expanding its certified roofing contractor network.

“They’re investing millions of dollars in the technology and their leadership firmly believes this is the way that solar is going,” says Weiner. “So it’s ultimately going happen, I believe, but the timeframe is still unknown.”

FAQ

What other solar products should DIYers consider?

DIY-friendly solar options include solar power kits that come with panels, a micro-inverter and often a battery, as well as easy-to-follow instructions. These can be a great entry point for DIYers looking to convert some of their home’s energy to solar. Other options include solar generators, solar water heaters or solar powered outdoor lights.

Is solar energy actually better for the environment?

While not a perfect system, solar energy is better for the environment than fossil-fuel based energy sources. It produces no air pollution, requires no water, has an endless power supply and minimally disrupts the land to create an energy output. The benefits of solar energy far outweigh any negatives in regards to environmental impact.

About the Expert

Matt Weiner is Director of Golden Group Roofing and Solar, an award-winning rooftop solar and roof installation company in the Greater Boston area.

The post What To Know About Solar Roof Shingles appeared first on Family Handyman.

In our race to cut our greenhouse gas emissions, it’s a dinosaur. Today’s more efficient technology means our future depends on going electric.

“The only eco-friendly heating system is an electric heat pump system,” says Panama Bartholomy, executive director of the Building Decarbonization Coalition. “The good news is, there are many types of them.

“If you have a ducted system, you can use a standard heat pump or a ducted mini-split. If you don’t have any ducts and are looking to replace something like a wall heater or baseboard heaters, you could use a ductless mini-split system. There are even companies that make heat pumps that go in your window.”

Electricity-driven heating is today’s gold standard. Before the HVAC systems we install today reach the end of their lifespans, it’s possible the grid will be heavily if not entirely powered by carbon-free energy sources.

Non-fuel burning devices also reduce health-damaging air pollution in our homes and usually deliver big on energy savings. They’re up to to five times more efficient than furnaces.

Here are some eco-friendly heating system options. And don’t forget the cost can be partly covered by tax credits and rebates included in the new Inflation Reduction Act (IRA) .

Air-Source Heat Pumps

These are essentially air conditioners that run in reverse, with outside air providing heating and cooling to your home. They come in several configurations:

• Packaged, as in window and portable stand-alone units;
• Ductless and ducted mini-splits;
• Ducted central heat pumps.

Window units and mini-splits offer DIY installation and usually cost well under $1,000. Full HVAC systems can run between $3,000 and $18,000. Cost depends on whether you need electrical and ductwork upgrades; home size and required heating capacity; climate in your location; and what you’re replacing. These systems typically last around 14 years.

If you’re thinking about going with an air-sourced heat pump, also keep in mind:

• The best systems offer a heating seasonal performance factor (HSPF) of 10.5, a seasonal energy efficiency rating (SEER) of 20 or higher and a coefficient of performance (COP) of 3 or better.
• If you live where it’s cold in the winter, make sure the installer installing is familiar with the NEEP cold-climate air source heat pump list. Ask for one that works well down to minus-5 degrees or lower.
• If you’re in the market for an air conditioner, don’t buy a standalone. “Instead, buy a heat pump version that can provide cooling and heat,” says Sara Baldwin, director of electrification policy at Energy Innovation. “It’s a far more efficient and cost-effective option and can facilitate the transition away from fossil fuels more quickly.”
• To bring down costs, the IRA provides a $2,000 tax credit for heat pumps and additional incentives for electrical upgrades. Low-to-moderate income households can also benefit from new rebates, administered through state energy offices.

Psst! While we’re on the subject, take a look inside Family Handyman’s Sustainable Studio.

Ground-Source (Geothermal) Heat Pumps

These systems rely on the relatively constant temperature of the earth as an exchange medium. They’re highly efficient for heating and cooling, offering a 25 to 50 percent cost savings over conventional fossil fuel systems. But they require land to accommodate the pipes, which must be buried.

Ground-source heat pumps range from $3,000 to $30,000, depending on the climate, soil conditions, available land, local installation costs, the size of your home and heating and cooling needs. They’re also durable. Inside components last around 24 years, and the ground loop more than 50.

The IRA provides a 30 percent credit for geothermal heat pump projects, with potentially more incentives available from state energy offices.

Radiant Heating Systems

In-floor radiant heating systems aren’t as efficient as heat pump, and can’t double as a cooling system. But they can still provide energy savings with all the added benefits of ditching fossil fuels, provided you heat your water with electricity and and not gas.

“Radiant floors may make sense for home additions that don’t easily or affordably allow for extending the heating system into the new space, or when redoing your floors,” says Baldwin. “By avoiding forced air circulation and the use of ducts, they can also help eliminate allergens and dust.”

If you’re leaning toward a radiant floor system, know there are different electric heating cables or hydronic (liquid) systems, depending on what type of floor you have. Flooring materials with more thermal mass can help retain heat longer, thus saving energy.

Radiant floor heating costs range from $8 to $20 per square foot. It pairs well with distributed solar and energy storage, also covered under IRA incentives.

Other Eco-Heating Advice

If you’re hiring a contractor, get two or three bids. Make sure they know how to properly size a heat pump based on a manual J load calculation, which accounts for factors like your home’s size, climate zone, quality of insulation and windows.

Investments in air sealing and insulation, programmable thermostats and proper equipment maintenance can also reduce the size of the unit you need and make your home more comfortable.

“There is no such thing as an eco-friendly home that has lots of air holes or doesn’t have insulation,” says Bartholomy. “Weatherization is an imperative part of having an eco-friendly home.” Reduce waste even more by opting for sustainable furniture.

The post 3 Eco-Friendly Heating Systems for Your Home in 2024 appeared first on Family Handyman.

That doesn’t mean they work in every situation. My land mates and I would dearly like to install wind turbines on our off-grid property, but despite being located on a ridge overlooking the ocean, we don’t get enough wind to make them practical. They won’t generate any electricity if the wind doesn’t blow hard enough to make them spin, and even if they do spin, our average wind speed is too low to make them spin fast enough to generate significant amounts of electricity.

At least that was the situation the last time we checked, about 10 years ago. With improvements in technology, there may be new models that would work for us, so we plan to revisit the possibility of installing one or more in the near future. Windmills have been a thing since the Middle Ages, and they are a valuable resource for eco-conscious and pennywise homeowners.

What Are Home Wind Turbines?

Since the mid-20th century, wind farms have become common enough to the point that virtually everyone has seen a giant windmill from their car. Shrink one of those to about a quarter of its size, and you have one type of home wind turbine. Manufacturers have come up with a number of creative designs that fall into one of two categories: horizontal axis and vertical axis.

• Horizontal-axis turbines are the kind you see from the roadway. The turbine is enclosed in a housing mounted on a tall pole, and blades attached to the turbine shaft catch the wind and spin the shaft, which activates a gear system to spin the turbine. Horizontal-axis turbines usually have a rudder, much like the one on a weather vane, that spins the rotor to keep the blades facing the wind.
• Vertical-axis turbines have a shaft that extends vertically from the ground, and the blades can be shaped like the letters “S” or “H,” or they can be semicircular like the spokes on a whisk blender. The more compact design allows for installation on rooftops as well as on the ground.

Because wind is unpredictable, you don’t normally use the energy generated by a wind turbine directly. You either store it in a battery or feed it through the panel to lower your energy costs. Some turbines come with batteries pre-installed while others are designed to tie into the battery pack for an existing PV system.

Benefits and Drawbacks of Home Wind Turbines

Free energy from the wind? Yes, please. It’s the obvious and most important benefit of home wind turbines, and when you compare them to PV panels, which also generate free electricity, they have these advantages:

• A budget turbine that can generate 1,500 watts of electricity occupies 10 or 20 square feet of ground space, so it’s a good solution for small properties. A panel array that generates the same wattage, on the other hand, needs 80 to 150 square feet of real estate, depending on each panel’s power rating.
• As long as the wind is blowing, wind turbines can generate just as much power on cloudy days (and at night) as they can on sunny days.
• Wind turbines convert as much as 50% of the energy they absorb from the wind into electricity. By contrast, solar panels are around 20% efficient.
• The production of wind turbines releases fewer atmospheric pollutants than the production of solar panels.

All the above notwithstanding, wind turbines have serious drawbacks that can make them a less attractive choice than PV panels:

• Wind is unpredictable, and even though turbines work when the sun isn’t out, they don’t work when the wind isn’t blowing.
• Unlike PV panels, which are pretty much maintenance-free, wind turbines require regular maintenance, and they have moving parts that can be noisy and can break if the wind blows too hard.
• Wind turbines have to be placed where the wind is blowing, which sometimes necessitates high towers or prominent roof placements. Because of the visual impact and the noise factor, they aren’t suitable for densely populated neighborhoods, and some communities might be reluctant to issue permits for them.
• The blades of horizontal-axis turbines create a hazard for wildlife, especially birds and bats.

Are Home Wind Turbines Worth the Investment?

If your residential situation is suitable for a wind turbine, it can be a great investment. A small wind turbine can be surprisingly affordable — as long as you don’t have to mount it on a tall tower to catch the wind and rack up astronomical installation costs in the process. Vertical-axis turbines that can pump 1.5 kW of power into your solar battery bank or feed it to the grid cost less than $500.

A wind turbine is a bad investment if you don’t get enough wind to make it spin, but some models have very low cut-in speeds (the minimum wind speed needed to make them spin) of less than five mph, and they achieve optimal energy production at speeds around 30 mph. This is an improvement from 10 years ago, and it’s the reason why we’re rethinking our decision to put one on our property.

Home Wind Turbine Installation: Can You DIY?

Some turbine manufacturers advertise DIY installation, but Energy.gov advises against doing the job yourself. Choosing site placement and physically mounting the turbine are only half the job — the unit has to be hooked up to your electrical system. A pro has the knowledge to do the job according to code and will also handle the permits.

The post What to Know About Home Wind Turbines appeared first on Family Handyman.

Best Overall Garage Door Insulation Kit

Reach Barrier Reflective Air Garage Door Insulation Kit

The best garage door insulation kit for your home is the one that fits your needs regardless of what might be best for your neighbors. However, one kit that meets many homeowners’ needs is the Reach Barrier garage door insulation kit. It’s a budget-friendly reflective insulation solution consisting of eight 24-inch-by-48-inch panels of trimmable, 20% recycled material. The kit includes self-adhesive fasteners for simple installation, and the materials won’t require protective clothing to install.

While the product doesn’t state its insulating ability or R-value (rating of a material’s ability to resist heat transfer), its high average consumer ratings attest to the fact that it’s effective against heat and cold transfer. The product works best for single garage doors of 8 feet wide or less, or double garage doors 16 or fewer feet wide with the purchase of two kits.

Pros

• Deflects heat in summer and retains heat in winter
• Long-lasting adhesive
• Easy installation (no special tools necessary and panels are pre-cut)
• Budget-friendly price
• Made from 20% recycled material

Cons

• R-value not stated

$46.83 at Amazon

Best Value Garage Door Insulation Kit

US Energy NASATech Garage Door Reflective Insulation Kit

A major deciding factor when searching for energy-efficient solutions is ensuring you get the most value for your money. One such product that meets that need is the US Energy NASATech garage door insulation kit. It provides an impressive R-value of eight, which means roughly 90% of heat flow is blocked, while offering everything you need for installation at a reasonable price.

Four trimmable rolls come in the kit, making it compatible with multiple, double garage door sizes up to 18 feet wide. Heavy-duty, double-sided foam tape, as well as instructions, a squeegee for door preparation and a utility razor knife are included, so all you’ll really need is a few hours available for installation.

Pros

• Kit includes everything necessary for installation
• Reasonably priced
• R-value of eight
• Comes in rolls instead of panels for versatility
• Fits doors up to 18 feet wide

Cons

• Rolls may be more difficult to handle than pre-cut panels

$117.76 at Amazon

Best Budget Garage Door Insulation Kit

Cellofoam Garage Door Insulation Kit

Saving money is one of the primary reasons to pursue energy efficiency, whether in the home or garage. To that end, thus budget-friendly garage door insulation kit from Cellofoam can save you money right from the start. The kit consists of eight moisture-resistant and durable, expanded polystyrene foam (EPS) panels, which are trimmable to fit individual sections of garage doors up to 9 feet wide (or 18 feet wide with a pair of kits).

The R-value for this kit is just over four, and the product is washable after installation to keep it looking good. However, the panels are just 20 inches tall, meaning the kit will only fit 7-foot tall garage doors.

Pros

• Won’t break the bank
• Fits single garage doors up to 9 feet wide
• EPS material is durable and moisture-resistant
• Installed product is washable

Cons

• Won’t fit garage doors taller than 7 feet

Shop Now

Best Garage Door Insulation Kit for Easy Installation

Owens Corning Garage Door Fiberglass Insulation Kit

Installing garage door insulation is just one part of how to heat a garage when temperatures drop, and it doesn’t have to take all weekend. This garage door insulation kit from Owens Corning claims installation takes just an hour, and several reviews mention the kit was not only easy to install, but took less time than stated. Additionally, as a fiberglass insulation, the fibers fill gaps nicely at the edge of the door panels.

Installation involves adhering one-half of the retaining clips to the door and securing the pre-cut, trimmable panels with the other half of the the clips. The kit provides an R-value of up to eight, and is designed for single garage doors with channels to hold the insulation panels in place at the edges.

Pros

• Installation takes under an hour
• R-value of eight
• Fiberglass insulation fills gaps at panel edges
• Includes protective gloves, adhesive and clips

Cons

• Only for use on garage doors with channels
• Fiberglass insulation requires protective clothing for installation

Shop Now

Best Looking Garage Door Insulation Kit

Matador Garage Door Insulation Kit

Since we often focus on function over aesthetics, the backside of a garage door isn’t typically classified as “pretty.” However, the Matador garage door insulation kit adds visual improvement while providing up to a 4.8 R-value to your door. Available in two sizes, the large one is for 7-foot doors while the extra-large version is tall enough for 8-foot tall doors.

The kit consists of eight EPS, trimmable panels for a single garage door up to 9 feet wide. Installation simply involves cutting the panels to fit and bending them slightly for insertion into the channels at the edges of each door section. Proper installation yields a clean appearance that looks like it came that way from the factory.

Pros

• Final appearance mimics factory installation
• Comes in two sizes
• R-value of 4.8 (good for thin insulation)
• Friction fitting requires no special adhesives or tools

Cons

• Garage door requires channels for proper fit
• Panel cutting must be precise

$149.80 at Amazon

Best Splurge Garage Door Insulation

Kraken Bond FastCoat Spray Foam Insulation Kit

There are some concerns about applying spray foam insulation to the inside of a garage door: The potential for product degradation over time, as well as questionable adhesion to some surfaces. However, if you’re seeking a high R-value of up to seven per inch of thickness and have some spare change in your pocket, Kraken Bond FastCoat spray could be just what your garage needs.

Kraken offers a variety of spray foam insulation and accessories. This kit includes 12 cans of spray foam, a spray gun attachment and gun cleaner for wrapping up the job, as well as safety goggles and gloves. The 12 cans cover up to 240 board feet at 1-inch thick, which should be more than enough for a full-size, two-car garage door. Installing spray foam insulation is usually a job for professionals. However, with patience, prep work and plastic sheeting on the garage floor, it’s a doable DIY garage project.

Pros

• Includes reusable spray-foam application gun, foam cleaner, safety goggles and gloves
• Installation requires no measuring or cutting
• Provides enough foam for a two-car garage
• R-value of seven

Cons

• Prep work is necessary for good results
• Product may degrade over time

$251.90 at Amazon

What to Look for When Buying a Garage Door Insulation Kit

The best garage door insulation kit for your home depends on a number of variables, including the climate in your location, what you’re trying to achieve through the project and what type of garage door you have. Garage door insulation kits are available in several configurations, materials and insulating qualities and abilities, but the most crucial factors can be boiled down into just a few key points. Consider the following factors to help decide which is best for your situation.

• Cost: The whole idea behind insulating your garage door is to make your garage more comfortable while saving money on energy bills. It only makes sense that the insulation kit you purchase fits in your budget.
• Value: A good garage door insulation kit with proper installation can pay for itself rapidly through energy efficiency. If you’re not seeking the absolute lowest price tag for the project, ensure you receive a good value in the form of a return on investment. Paying slightly more to gain a higher R-value (while not breaking the bank) is likely a better investment than spending less now and paying more for heating or cooling later.
• Door size: Garage door insulation kits come in various sizes. Some are available as single or double door kits while others may only fit 7-foot tall doors or 16-foot wide doors. Be sure to check the kit’s size before purchasing one or more of them for your garage door. Also, make sure the kit is compatible with the style and material of your garage door.
• Installation: If you’re planning on insulating your garage door as a DIY project, be certain that the kit you choose fits your door style and that its installation is within your skill level. Remember that some products may be both easy to install and a good value while others may be difficult to install and provide little in the way of insulating qualities.

How We Found the Best Garage Door Insulation Kits

I have over 30 years of professional home improvement and repair experience in the field. I analyzed numerous manufacturers and products, and rated them based on performance, features, reviews and stand-out qualities. That lead me to the six best garage door insulation kits that are worthy of your hard-earned dollars.

FAQ

What is the best thing to insulate a garage door?

The best thing to insulate your garage door may be different from what’s best for someone else’s door. It depends on the climate in your area and how much insulating ability you desire.

Do garage door insulation kits make a difference?

A properly installed garage door installation kit can mean a difference of 20 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit variation between the inside of the garage and the outside elements. However, the garage insulation must be in good condition, and the door must have an intact seal to be effective. The kit makes a difference in the right situations, and can even be the difference between a garage heater being worth it or not.

Does Styrofoam garage door insulation work?

Styrofoam is, in reality, a trademarked name for a product manufactured by DuPont. Most often, what’s called Styrofoam is really expanded polystyrene (EPS). EPS is excellent for use as garage door insulation, due to its relatively high insulating value and reasonable cost.

The post The 6 Best Garage Door Insulation Kits for Temperature Control appeared first on Family Handyman.

Why You Shouldn’t Crank Down Your Thermostat

There are a few main reasons why you should never crank down your thermostat to cool your home. The first, according to Jennifer Amann, senior fellow in the buildings program at the nonprofit, American Council for an Energy-Efficient Economy is that, “It’s not going to really cool your home any faster.” Shichao Liu, an architectural engineering professor at Worcester Polytechnic Institute in Massachusetts, underscores this point, explaining: “People think, ‘If I make the thermostat set point 60, I’ll get more cooling than a set point at 70,’ but that’s not correct. You get the same amount of the cooling.”

Additionally, every air conditioning system has a certain cooling capacity. If you set your thermostat to a temperature that exceeds that capacity, your system will just keep running trying to meet it. This puts unnecessary strain on your air conditioning system, which will shorten its lifespan.

Lastly, the continuous running of the air conditioner guzzles energy. This hurts the planet and can lead your cooling efforts to backfire. When everyone runs their air conditioners continuously, the power grid can fail, and then you may not be able to use your air conditioner at all.

How to Properly Set a Thermostat

When setting a thermostat, gradual changes make a huge difference. Start by checking your thermostat’s cooling capacity by calling the manufacturer or your landlord. If you can find this number, never drop the temperature lower than it. If you can’t locate the capacity, try to stick to temperatures between 71 and 77 degrees. One 2014 study by the University of Georgia, Athens, found that most people report feeling comfortable at these temperatures.

If you can manage it, try to stick to the upper margin of that range. Co-author of the study and professor of practice emeritus Thomas Lawrence said, “If a person was in their house and they’re going to be there all the time, they could maybe turn up to 76 or 77 or so.” He then added, “People should realize that if it’s really hot outside, having [the thermostat] at 77, 78, or even more, on the inside for a little while still feels good.”

Setting your thermostat slightly higher than you would think to can make a huge difference in supporting our power grids, Amann notes. She encourages those who are away from home to set their thermostat 5 or 10 degrees higher than they would if they were home. One degree of a thermostat increase can save approximately 1% of energy. As such, Amann says, “If everyone who is away from home has set their thermostat so that they’re saving at least 5% of their cooling, then across all of the houses that can really make a difference in addressing that peak load.”

Lastly, be aware of peak energy consumption hours. When it’s hottest outside during the afternoon, most people are cranking their air conditioners. As such, this is when the power grid is most strained, so increasing your thermostat by even 1 degree can make an impact.

More Energy Efficiency Tips

First, to get the best cooling out of your air conditioner and save energy, make sure you perform the proper maintenance on your unit. Additionally, if you are having problems with your air conditioner, be sure to check these simple fixes. If none of those work, there are numerous repairs you can perform yourself.

Finally, there are plenty of ways to keep your home cool without air conditioning. So before you turn to the thermostat, try these 12 alternative ways to cool your home. They’ll have you feeling comfortable in no time!

The post There’s a Right Way to Set Your Air Conditioner—Here’s How appeared first on Family Handyman.

via merchant (2)

We love this energy-efficient washer and dryer combo from Beko, not only for its supreme efficiency, but for its forward-thinking innovation. Beko’s smart washer spins at 1,400 revolutions per minute (RPM), which gets extra moisture out of clothes and enables its heat pump dryer to deliver a shorter drying time. It also uses a steam cycle at the beginning of the wash to preheat and loosen stains, which gets laundry cleaner while being gentler on your clothes.

Although Beko has been recognized as “Energy Star Most Efficient” for past several years, in an industry first, the brand also started making their washtubs partly from recycled water bottles, which has taken more than 171 million plastic bottles out of the waste stream since 2017.

As for Beko’s ventless dryer, it ingeniously uses the condensation it absorbs to fill its reservoir for steam drying modes, which delivers less wrinkled clothes. The new model is also 60% more efficient than its predecessor.

Features

• Washer spins at 1,400 RPM
• Heat pump ventless dryer
• 2.5-cubic-foot washer drum and 4.5-cubic-foot dryer drum
• Wi-Fi enabled and compatible with the HomeWhiz smart home app
• Automatic fabric and load-size sensors
• Steam cycle
• Stackable

via merchant (2)

Best Budget Energy-Efficient Washer and Dryer Set

LG 27-Inch Washer and Dryer

Shop the Washer Now

Shop the Dryer Now

Energy efficiency and low cost don’t usually go hand in hand with appliances, but this pair from LG delivers both, along with a lot of other perks. The LG smart front-load washer spins at 1,300 RPM to extract more water before they go into the dryer, plus a turbo-wash setting uses spray jets to zip through a load in under 30 minutes. Make sure you know how to clean a front-load washer.

The LG smart electric dryer boasts a 7.4-cubic-foot drum that features 12 dry cycles and five temperature settings, including a steam cycle. LG was named one of the most sustainable home appliance brands by Green Builder in 2023. For more budget picks, browse our list of the best washer and dryer bundles under $1,500.

Features

• 1,300 RPM washer spin speed
• 4.5-cubic-foot washer drum and 7.4-cubic-foot dryer drum
• Wi-Fi enabled and works with Google Assistant and Amazon Alexa
• 12 wash and dry cycles, and five temperature settings
• Steam cycles on both washer and dryer
• Stackable
• Auto-sensing selects optimal wash and dry settings

via merchant (2)

Best Full-Size Energy-Efficient Washer and Dryer Set

Samsung 27-Inch Washer and Dryer

Shop the Washer Now

Shop the Dryer Now

This smart dial washer and dryer from Samsung is just an overall solid, well-performing combo. Not only do they win our pick for best full-size energy-efficient washer and dryer, but they’re also stackable, meaning you can do more efficient laundry in less space. Add the 27-inch-wide pedestal with drawer for extra height and storage and the set becomes Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA)-compliant—and overall easier to deal with for those with bad backs.

A spacious 5.0-cubic-foot washer drum is appreciated for households with heavy laundry needs or lazy laundry habits that entail throwing it all in. Both machines feature an AI-Powered Smart Dial, which learns and recommends your favorite washing and drying cycles, and allows for customization. Need to stack the machines? No problem. Thanks to the machines’ MultiControl technology, you can operate your dryer right from your washer.

Features

• 5.0-cubic-foot washer drum and 7.4 cubic-foot dryer drum
• AI smart dial learns and recommends wash preferences
• 28-minute speed wash and 30-minute speed dry
• Wi-Fi enabled
• Steam cycle
• Stackable (operate dryer right from washer when the units are stacked)
• Vent sensor with cleaning alert and lint filter indicator
• Proprietary drum pattern to protect fabrics and extract water more quickly
• Antimicrobial treated high-touch areas and drum
• ADA-compliant risers (sold separately)

Psst! Confused about an LG vs. Samsung washer? It all comes down to the features.

via merchant (2)

Best Top-Loading Energy-Efficient Washer and Dryer Set

LG 27-Inch Washer and DLE7400WE Dryer

Shop the Washer Now

Shop the Dryer Now

By nature, top-loading washers are not as efficient as front-loaders, but they do offer some perks, like being able to plop the last-minute sock in after the cycle has started. This LG smart top-load washer ranks the top of Energy Star’s list for its category. It also comes with a lot of extras, like a large-capacity drum, smart technology and a reasonable price tag.

The Energy Star-certified smart gas dryer features a 7.3-cubic-foot drum with eight dry cycles and five temperature settings. What else could you need?

Features

• 5.5-cubic-foot washer drum and 7.3-cubic-foot dryer drum
• 950 RPM wash spin
• Eight wash and dry cycles
• Turbo-wash setting for speed loads and deep-fill option
• Five temperature settings
• Wi-Fi enabled with smart pairing between washer and dryer
• Compatible with Google Assistant and Amazon Alexa
• ThinQ smart app sends alerts about usage, maintenance and early diagnosis

via merchant (2)

Best Portable Energy-Efficient Washer and Dryer Set

Magic Chef Compact Portable Washer and Electric Dryer

Shop the Washer Now

Shop the Dryer Now

Portable washers and dryers are smart picks for small living spaces, as they can be stowed away in a closet when not in use. Magic Chef’s minis combine a versatile balance of portability, usability and features, with a somewhat-roomy 2 cubic feet of washer space. Both units also plug into standard 120-volt outlets, and the compact, portable washer connects to the faucet via a quick-connect hose system.

The electric dryer is not Energy Star-certified, but has an eco-mode for sensor drying. But consider using a clothes line when you can, as that is the most sustainable option of all.

Features

• 2.0-cubic-foot washer drum and 2.6-cubic-foot dryer drum
• Compatible with 120-volt outlets
• Top-loading washer with soft-close, transparent lid
• Multiple settings and modes
• Electronic LCD display panel on washer
• Quick connector kit
• Inlets for both hot and cold water with water pump filter
• Dryer has eco-mode, dry sensing and air-dry (no heat) options
• Washer has two caster wheels
• Dryer can be wall-mounted

What to Look for When Buying an Energy-Efficient Washer and Dryer Set

“The first thing you need to consider when shopping for any appliance is how big is the space you have for the appliance,” says Ron Shimek, president of Mr. Appliance. “Then you can look for the best appliance that fits into your space and fits your needs.”

To find models with the highest efficiency, look for Energy Star or Consortium for Energy Efficiency (CEE) certifications, keeping in mind there are several levels of efficiency designations:

• “Energy Star” meets minimum requirements of the federal program, equivalent to CEE Tier 1
• “Save More Energy Star” is the next step up in efficiency, equivalent to CEE Tiers 2, 3 and 4
• “Energy Star Most Efficient” is the highest efficiency, equivalent to CEE Advanced Tier

You can filter search the Energy Star site for certified washer and dryer models. The yellow Energy Guide label can also help you understand how much energy an appliance will use in a year. Currently, washing machines have this label, but dryers do not.

Also, Carter suggests paying attention to water usage per cycle and spin speed, as faster speeds leave your clothes less damp, saving more energy. “Here’s my philosophy: Keep it simple. The fancier the machine, the more there is to break,” he says.

Finally, check in-depth product reviews. “You will sometimes encounter a narrative that more efficient products offer worse user experiences,” says Joe Vukovich, staff attorney for the NRDC’s Climate & Clean Energy Program. “This is false, and more efficient products often have very high ratings. But it is always possible that any one product might be better or worse.”

How We Found the Most Energy-Efficient Washer and Dryer Sets

To help you find the most energy-efficient washer and dryer sets, we chose our picks after researching dozens of models, checking their energy efficiency standards, and gathering recommendations from a breadth of experts including those who:

• Help set national energy efficiency standards
• Work as appliance repair technicians
• Manufacture energy efficient models
• Retail energy efficient models

FAQ

Are Energy Star appliances worth the extra money?

Generally yes, but it does depend on how much you use the product, explains Vukovich. “To take an extreme hypothetical: If you buy a more efficient Energy Star washer, but only do one load of clothes a year, it will not pay for itself. But if you have a fairly typical laundry use pattern, it will generally pay for itself.”

Over the lifetime of a product, Energy Star states that washers can save about $550 in energy costs, and if all Americans switched to Energy Star-certified dryers, we would save more than $1.5 billion each year in utility costs. In addition, we would also prevent greenhouse gas emissions equivalent to more than two million vehicles.

“If your goal is to cut down your monthly expenses and reduce your environmental impact on the planet, then yes, Energy Star appliances are well worth the extra money up front,” says Shimek.

What is the difference between Energy Star and energy-efficient?

Energy-efficient is a broad term that denotes a product is more efficient than some other models on the market, whereas Energy Star is a government certification that verifies products perform at a certain high standard of energy efficiency, based off of a number of criteria.

“So, when you see energy-efficient, it basically means the appliance is better than the older guzzlers in terms of energy use,” says Carter. “Just because something is energy-efficient doesn’t mean it’s Energy Star-certified.”

Pros and Cons of Heat Pump Dryers

Heat pump dryers, sometimes called ventless dryers (though not all ventless use heat pump technology), account for about 60% of the market in Europe, but they’re just starting to catch on in the United States.

“Because heat pumps are moving heat, not creating it, they are much more efficient than other technologies,” says Vukovich. “All heat pump clothes dryers are certified as Energy Star Most Efficient.”

Pros

• Most energy-efficient type of dryer
• Easy to install, because they don’t require venting
• No vents to clean out and maintain
• Lower operating temperature, which is gentler on clothes
• Rebates available through the Inflation Reduction Act and some local municipalities, states and power companies

Cons

• Usually takes longer to dry clothes, but combining them with a high-RPM washer will reduce drying time
• Usually have smaller capacities

“Originally you’d see heat pump dryers in places like multi-family homes, where it wasn’t easy to vent to the outside,” says Justin Reinke, vice president of marketing at Beko Home Appliances. “But as people have realized the benefit of these dryers, they’re now put in places where you could have a normal, vented dryer.”

Other Energy-Efficient Tips

Having energy-efficient appliances is a solid first step toward sustainability, but whatever you have, you can always make it more efficient by using optimal cycles, temperatures and other energy efficiency tricks.

Sources:

• Jason Carter, appliance technician and founder of SimplySwider.com
• Ron Shimek, president of Mr. Appliance
• Joe Vukovich, staff attorney for the NRDC‘s Climate & Clean Energy Program
• Justin Reinke, vice president of marketing at Beko Home Appliances

The post The 5 Most Energy-Efficient Washer and Dryer Sets for a More Sustainable Home appeared first on Family Handyman.

To be healthy, your house needs to breathe as much as you do. You need oxygen-rich outside air moving through the house and stale indoor air moving out.

Keeping one or more windows open is one solution, but it isn’t practical in winter unless you’re like me and love sleeping in freezing temperatures. Even so, an open window only benefits that room.

Here’s a better idea: Installing an energy recovery ventilator (ERV). It’s an HVAC component that works on its own or in conjunction with your forced-air central heating and cooling system. It provides the entire house with fresh outdoor air while exhausting stale air. In most cases, it’s a good investment for anyone in a well insulated home.

What Is an Energy Recovery Ventilator?

If you live in a recently built home, you may already have an energy recovery ventilator and not know it. Some codes, like the 2020 New York City Energy Code, require ERVs or heat recovery ventilators (HRVs) in new buildings.

Go into the basement or furnace room and look for a rectangular metal box measuring about two-and-a-half feet by two feet. If it’s there, you’ll find two ports on either side for ducts that run throughout the building as well as to the outside.

If you open the cover, you’ll probably see a pair of fans and a central core made of engineered cellulose or composite resin. This is a fixed plate or stationary core ERV, and it’s the most common residential type.

Here’s how it works:

Fans simultaneously suck air from indoors and outdoors through intake ports and direct it through the core, engineered to allow the two air streams to exchange heat and moisture. After passing through the core, exhaust ports carry indoor air outdoors and outdoor air into the house.

The air coming into the house after passing though an ERV is conditioned. It’s warmer than outdoor air during the winter and cooler during the summer. The conditioned air retains some moisture, but it’s drier than the outdoor air.

Types of Energy Recovery Ventilators

When you open the cover of the ERV in your new house, you may not find a stationary core. That’s just one type. There are three others that differ by the type of heat exchanger they employ.

• Rotational (wheel): A plastic wheel spins between the indoor and outdoor air intake ports, transferring heat and moisture between them. This type of heat exchanger is common in larger ERVs found in hospitals and schools.
• Heat-pipe: Refrigerant-filled copper tubes transfer heat from outgoing air to the incoming fresh air stream. The warmer air stream vaporizes the refrigerant while the cooler stream condenses it, releasing heat into the cooler stream. This isn’t a common residential system.
• Runaround coils: Coils filled with a water-glycol mixture absorb heat from the warmer air stream and transfer it to the cooler stream. This technology works best for large systems where the incoming and outgoing air streams are widely separated.
• Fixed plate or stationary core: Most residential ERV’s are this type. Both incoming air streams pass through a stationary core engineered with special materials to allow the exchange of air and moisture between them.

Not all these heat exchange technologies allow for moisture exchange, so sometimes the ERV features a desiccant to absorb moisture from the air.

ERV vs. HRV

Like an ERV, a heat recovery ventilator (HRV) exchanges heat between the incoming air streams, but it doesn’t exchange moisture. Instead of a moisture-absorbing core, it comes with a metal one. Excess moisture condenses on the metal and drips into a tray.

An HRV transfers heat more efficiently than an ERV, and works better in Northern climates where the air is colder and drier.

ERV Benefits and Drawbacks

An ERV is a useful HVAC component for several reasons, but there are also reasons why you might not want one.

Benefits

• Fresh air everywhere: An ERV supplies fresh air to every room, not just those with an open window. An added benefit: The security of keeping windows closed and locked.
• Humidity control: While it’s no substitute for a dehumidifier, an ERV reduces the moisture in the air it blows into the house, especially beneficial in a humid climate.
• Balanced air pressure: By exhausting as much air as it blows, an ERV keeps the air pressure in the house balanced. That makes the environment more comfortable and reduces the likelihood of leaks developing in the building envelope.

Drawbacks

• Uses electricity: An ERV uses about 40 watts of electricity per hour. That isn’t much, but adds up if you run it 24/7. At the national average rate of $0.23 per kWh, that would cost almost $100 per year.
• Noise: Most ERV’s run quietly, but they do contain fans, so they aren’t silent.
• Expensive to install: ERV’s can be tied into the existing HVAC ductwork, but they work best when they have their own. Installing new ducts and vents is a major project.

Cost To Install an ERV

The average cost to purchase an ERV runs between $1,000 and $1,900. To install one, you also need to purchase ductwork and other materials. These cost between $800 and $1,900 depending on the size and configuration of your house.

If you do the installation yourself, that’s all you’ll have to pay. If you opt for professional installation, you’ll pay an extra $3 to $10 per linear foot of ductwork.

The post Energy Recovery Ventilators: Should You Invest in One? appeared first on Family Handyman.

How frequently should you run a dishwasher? Does it need to be fully loaded before a run? And how do you clean it, anyway?

Rest assured, this article will walk you through everything you need to know to get the most out of your dishwasher, from preparing your dishes for washing to unusual items you can throw in your next load.

How to Get the Most Out of Your Dishwasher

Follow these tips to lower your water bill and lessen the environmental impact of your dishwashing.

Run it only when full (but not too full)

When you start running low on plates, it’s natural to run the dishwasher, even if it’s not fully loaded yet. Dishwashing technology has become so efficient and environmentally friendly that some companies actually recommend running it “whenever you want.”

This, however, is not the full story.

Yes, these modern dishwashers are way more effective than their forebears, and way better than hand-washing dishes. And yes, overcrowding your dishes will reduce the washer’s ability to clean them properly, thereby wasting water and money.

However, running the entire dishwasher for only a few items is still more wasteful than running a properly full load. Try to find a happy medium so it’s pretty full, but water and detergent can still easily reach every item.

Pro Tip: Check here how to install a dishwasher and avoid the most common mistakes while you put them.

Don’t pre-rinse your dishes

Yes, you heard me!

While many users still rinse their dishes — we’ve even recommended a light rinse ourselves — the latest data suggests we should stop.

Modern dishwashers come with food filters, and most detergents contain enzymes that break down food particles. This means, according to former Wirecutter supervising editor Winnie Yang, all you need to do before loading is “scrape as much as you can into the garbage or compost.” After all, running all that sink water to get every speck of food off your dishes will increase your water bill.

Appliance company Duerden’s also encourages the no-rinse approach, recommending Finish dishwasher detergent for the best enzymatic cleaning power.

Load it properly

Contrary to popular belief, there is a right way to load a dishwasher. Make sure cups, glasses, mugs and small bowls are all on the top rack, and plates and larger bowls on the bottom. Everything loaded onto the bottom rack should face inward to ensure that the detergent and water can reach it properly.

Before your next load, check out our in-depth breakdown of dishwasher loading mistakes.

Clean it regularly

Cleaning your dishwasher will help you avoid odors, drainage issues and, of course, dirty dishes. To do so, you can use vinegar and/or dishwasher soap. Don’t forget to pay special attention to your armports, door lip and filter. And always consult your dishwasher’s manual before you clean. 

If you run about one load per day, your dishwasher needs to be cleaned “every 30 days,” according to Bree Lemmen, Whirlpool kitchen brand manager, speaking to Today.com.

Adjust the PSI

If you really want to make sure your dishwasher runs as effectively as possible, check the pounds per square inch (psi) of water pressure. According to filtration and appliance company Danamark, most commercial dishwashers only need 20 psi to clean dishes properly.

“If pressure is in excess of 25 psi, then the machine may be using more water than necessary,” the company says.

To check your water pressure correctly, look at the pressure gauge on the inlet water line. If you don’t have one, a professional can install one for you.

Wash more than just dishes

Finally, it’s OK to use your dishwasher to clean other household items. Add in terracotta pots, combs, vent grills, sponges and baby toys. Be sure to check out our full list of gadgets that can be put in the dishwasher.

The post Are You Getting the Most Out of Your Dishwasher? appeared first on Family Handyman.

But that’s about to change.

“Though solid-state lithium batteries were developed more than 30 years ago, their commercial use is just taking off thanks to new materials that are making them commercially viable,” says Vince Caito, vice president of product development at Yoshino Power. “Solid-state is especially making headlines as auto manufacturers develop them for the next generation of EVs.”

What Is a Solid-State Lithium Battery?

Simply stated, a solid-state lithium battery uses a solid electrolyte instead of a liquid one.

“All batteries have three main components: anode, cathode and an electrolyte,” says Gabriel Adams, a student at Arizona State University researching the new technology at the Rolston Lab.

“In the widely popular non-solid-state lithium batteries found in everything from consumer electronics to airplanes, the electrolyte is a liquid that facilitates lithium-ion transfer between the anode and cathode. In a solid-state lithium battery, the electrolyte is a solid material instead.”

There are several kinds of solid-state lithium battery technologies. Some rely on polymers to conduct the lithium ions, while others use sulfides or oxides (ceramics).

Advantages of Solid-State Lithium Batteries

Improved safety is one major advantage, because the electrolytes can’t leak out.

“Liquid electrolytes are flammable, and that’s why you see battery fires in the news,” says Eric D. Wachsman, Ph.D., director of the Maryland Energy Innovation Institute.

“We can engineer around it, and have been doing that for a long time, but there are certain fundamental tradeoffs between safety and performance with liquid electrolytes and the ceramic solid electrolytes avoid that tradeoff because the solid is non-flammable.”

Another advantage: The higher energy density, resulting in a more compact and lighter battery. With EVs, this has been touted as the “Holy Grail,” because it allows cars to go farther on a charge and recharge more quickly.

For the techies out there, here’s why, according to Adams: “Solids are more dense than liquids, and solid-state batteries eliminate the need for a separator between the anode and cathode. They also have better thermal stability because solids are more tightly bound together at the atomic level, so solid-state batteries can better withstand higher temperatures.”

Disadvantages of Solid-State Lithium Batteries

The biggest disadvantage is cost, due to their advanced materials, technology and manufacturing complexities. But as these batteries become more common, costs are likely to come down.

Where Are Solid-State Batteries Being Used?

Currently they’re not widely available to consumers, but that’s starting to change. Yoshino Power just released some of the first solid-state lithium products: portable power stations in various sizes for home backup, running power tools and camping. Over the next few years, the technology is expected to start storming the EV market.

“Solid-state batteries are the way of the future,” says Adams. “New electric vehicle manufacturers are investing heavily in their development, and companies like Toyota have claimed their new electric vehicles will use solid-state battery technology as soon as 2027.”

Nearly every other auto manufacturer has also made a commitment toward the technology.

“The focus from the Department of Energy in terms of funding has been in electric vehicles because of the impact on addressing climate concerns,” says Wachsman. “But it will make it into consumer electronics. It will make it into grid storage. There’s a limitless number of applications for these batteries.”

But if you’re considering an EV and you’re on a budget, don’t wait for the technology to come out. “Just go get it now,” says Wachsman. “The initial ones are going to be more expensive, and it’s going to be a while before the scale of manufacturing is large enough that the price per unit drops.”

The post What Is a Solid-State Lithium Battery? appeared first on Family Handyman.

In this article, we’ll walk you through a professional energy audit and show you how it works. We teamed up with Erik Lindberg, a Minnesota state-certified energy auditor whose company, Enervision, has performed more than 12,000 audits.

What Is a Home Energy Audit?

During a home energy audit, an auditor will come to your home and conduct a series of tests to provide detailed information about your home’s energy usage and energy loss. It takes about two to three hours. The report will detail:

• The condition and efficiency of your heating and cooling system;
• The overall efficiency of your home, including the primary areas of air leakage in your walls and ceilings;
• Low-cost ways you can improve energy efficiency and save energy;
• Larger upgrades that will pay back their cost with energy savings within a relatively short period.

How Much Does a Home Energy Audit Cost?

Typically between $200 and $600. The actual cost may be higher or lower depending on the property size, complexity of the audit and the company doing it.

To find out the exact cost, contact your utility provider. Ask about tax credits or rebates. The Inflation Reduction Act (IRA) offers a tax credit of up to $150 for home energy audits. Scheduling an audit through your utility will likely be cheaper and easier than seeking one out on your own.

Can You Do Your Own Home Energy Audit?

Yes. While a professional energy audit is the best way to determine your home’s overall efficiency, an experienced DIYer who can locate drafts and replace light bulbs can identify and fix some straightforward problems.

Simple things you can do include improving attic insulation levels, closing gaps around electrical outlets on exterior walls, caulking windows and replacing light bulbs and fixtures with energy efficient alternatives. An energy audit will most likely include all these if your current home lacks them, greatly impacting your energy usage and the efficiency of your home.

What a Home Energy Audit Checks

Heating and hot water systems

The audit starts with a furnace combustion efficiency test.

With the furnace running, Lindberg inserts a gas analyzer into its draft diverter. If there’s no draft diverter, he drills a small hole in the flue for the wand, then patches it later. The analyzer provides an immediate reading.

Our furnace had a 76.9 percent combustion efficiency — not bad considering furnaces at least 15 years old are usually 55 to 68 percent efficient, and this unit is 27 years old. (Typical lifespan is 15 to 20 years.)

This test also measures:

• The amount of carbon monoxide in the flue gases;
• Draft pressure in the flue to determine if gases could leak into the house.

These are safety issues. If waste gases aren’t going up the chimney, moisture, carbon monoxide and other pollutants could be flowing into your home (i.e. back-drafting). Common causes of vent problems are birds’ nests in the vent pipes, or vents that have come apart.

“If you have moisture on your windows,” Lindberg says, “the first thing to check for is back-drafting in the furnace and water heater flues.”

Lindberg tests for back-drafting in the water heater vent flue as well, by holding a flame or a smoke stick next to the draft diverter.

The check of the heating and hot water systems concludes with a visual inspection. Rust particles (called “scaling”) inside the furnace heat exchanger indicate corrosion, eventually leading to holes and combustion gas leakage. Scaling may also be visible on top of the water heater around the draft diverter.

Lindberg looks to see if the furnace filter is clean and installed correctly. “Clogged filters can cause a moderate increase in heating costs,” he says. “But more significantly, [it can] cause the heat exchanger to overheat and fail, and cause the fan motor to heat up, increase electric consumption and reduce the life of the motor.”

He also looks for combustibles stored near the furnace or water heater, because the flame could cause an explosion.

Other common problems Lindberg finds include disconnected flue pipes, leaky ductwork, clogged condensation pipes, dirty burners, and dirty fan blades.

“I’ve found many furnaces missing the cover for the filter slot, and major leaks in the return-air ductwork,” he says. “This causes depressurization in the furnace room and can draw dangerous exhaust gases out of the flue pipe and distribute these gases throughout the house.”

Air leakage

Part Two of the audit entails a “blower door” test, which measures the home’s “tightness,” or air infiltration rate.

Lindberg first closes all doors and windows, then sets an adjustable panel with a variable-speed fan in a doorway, completely sealing it. He turns on the fan to blow air out of the house, which reduces the indoor air pressure, then measures airflow through the fan at predetermined pressure points. Outside air then enters through cracks and gaps in walls and ceilings.

With the fan running, you can feel air come in with your hand, especially around leaky windows and doors. Gauges connected to the fan measure the airflow rate needed to maintain a constant pressure. This allows the auditor to calculate the leakage rate.

Newer homes are built tighter under the most recent Minnesota building code. (Most other state codes have tighter rules too.) It even requires special ventilation fans to ensure adequate fresh air. Still, their leakage rate is often equivalent to a 6- by 6-in. hole in a wall.

Older homes weren’t built nearly as tightly. They often have a leakage rate equivalent to a 19- by 19-in. hole, which is like having a window wide open all the time! The house we tested had leaks totaling .77 square feet (about an 11- by 11-in. hole). Lindberg estimates that sealing air leaks alone will save 10 to 20 percent on this home’s annual heating bills.

Lindberg pointed out several signs of air leaks: stains around bath fans and dirt on insulation. A batt of insulation between joists in the basement was dirty, meaning the insulation served as a filter for air leaking in through the foundation.

“You can’t fix these leaks with insulation because it won’t stop the airflow,” he says. “You have to seal them with caulk, expanding foam, or some other sealant.”

In Lindberg’s opinion, there’s no limit to how tight you can make the ceiling.

“The less air that goes out the ceiling, the less that will come in around doors, windows, and other leaky areas,” he says. “When you’re carrying water in a bucket, it doesn’t matter if the top leaks because no water is going to get out. What matters is the bottom. Think of your house like an upside down bucket holding heat.”

Sources of energy loss

While the blower door test measures the overall leakiness of the house, infrared scanning (technically called “thermography”) graphically identifies the precise locations of those leaks. Lindberg keeps the blower door fan running to draw in outside air. Then, using an infrared camera, he scans the walls and ceilings, photographing surface areas that show up as cooler.

Cold areas show up as blue, and warm areas as yellow. On a chilly day in March, the framing members showed up as blue, since they were cooler than the insulated portion of the walls. The opposite would be true on a hot day with an air-conditioner running indoors.

Air leaks in the ceiling typically cause the greatest energy losses. Openings made for light fixtures, plumbing vents, exhaust fans, attic access and smoke alarms will leak if the builder doesn’t efficiently seal them.

In this house, the area around the attic access panel and the exhaust fan in the upstairs bathroom showed extensive leaking. A ceiling light fixture, which must have been sealed better, leaked very little.

Electrical outlets and light switches on outside walls also usually leak, unless the builder took extra pains to seal them. The infrared scan showed four in the north kitchen wall leaked profusely. The homeowner confirmed this, noting that she often felt cold drafts when standing by this wall.

While some of these problems are easy to fix — insulating attic doors, spray foam or caulk around the exhaust fans, and foam seals under the outlet and switch cover plates — others are difficult to seal and may not be practical to fix. Leaks around exterior wall top plates and inadequate insulation in some wall cavities are common but hard to access, therefore expensive to remedy.

Expect some air leakage around windows, sliding patio doors and exterior doors. “All doors will leak,” Lindberg says. “Especially since people step on the threshold as they enter and leave the house, wearing a gap between the door and sill. The only doors that don’t leak are the ones on submarines.”

Final Report — What You Can Save

Once the testing is complete, the auditor prepares a comprehensive report detailing the amount of leakage, ways to improve efficiency, the cost of specific improvements, and the time frame for recouping those investments. The report lists specific low-cost steps for reducing energy consumption you can usually do yourself.

For this house, they included insulating the attic access panel, weatherstripping it with closed-cell foam tape, sealing ceiling penetrations at electrical fixtures, insulating kitchen soffits, adding attic insulation, insulating the rim joists, and caulking around windows, doors and base trim.

Lindberg estimated these upgrades will cut annual energy bills by 15 to 20 percent. Adding insulation to exterior walls isn’t worth the cost.

The furnace, installed when the house was built, had an annual fuel utilization efficiency (AFUE) of about 68 percent. That’s well below the current minimum standard specified by the building code and far below the efficiencies currently available. (Energy Star furnaces must be at least 90 percent AFUE.)

Lindberg recommends upgrading any furnace in Minnesota’s cold climate that’s not at least 80 percent efficient, since newer models use less energy and eventually pay for themselves (in nine years in this case). Your energy auditor will make these calculations and recommendations based on your local climate. Furnaces that are at least 95 percent efficient may qualify for a federal tax credit.

Installing a programmable thermostat in this home will pay for itself in just two to three years. A new high-efficiency air conditioner isn’t a priority, but it’s likely to be in warmer climates. You want to recoup your investment through predicted energy savings within seven to 10 years.

The post How a Home Energy Audit Can Save You Money appeared first on Family Handyman.

If you’re curious about installing solar panels, here’s everything you need to know about the solar panel tax credit, including how to check your eligibility and take advantage of it.

What Is the Solar Panel Tax Credit?

A program where the federal government reimburses homeowners for installing solar panels. Up to 30% of the costs of materials, installation, permits and fees will be covered for solar panels installed by the end of 2032. For panels installed in 2033, the credit falls to 26%, then to 22% in 2034.

Am I Eligible for the Solar Panel Tax Credit?

According to Sky Power Solar, “[a]nyone who buys and installs a PV [photovoltaic] system and pays federal taxes is eligible for this solar incentive.”

However, you “must be the PV system owner” to qualify. This means you must purchase the solar system yourself, with your own funds or a loan. The purchased system could be on your main property, but those installed on vacation homes, rental properties and stationary RVs also qualify for the tax credit.

How Does the Solar Panel Tax Credit Work?

According to the New York Times, the solar panel tax credit “reduces your bill dollar for dollar.” That means if you owe money when you file your taxes, the credit lowers this amount directly. But if you don’t owe federal tax, “you won’t get any of the credit as a refund,” per the Times. So you can’t make money off the tax credit.

April Walker, lead manager of tax practice and ethics at the American Institute of Certified Public Accountants, told the Times unused credit can be carried over to future tax years, allowing you to reach the full 30% reimbursement amount.

How Much Money Will I Save Switching to Solar Energy?

That varies greatly depending on your individual situation. Some factors that affect your bill include:

• How much electricity you use;
• How many solar panels you install;
• How your home is oriented (toward or away from the sun);
• How much shade your home receives.

Obviously, super-shady homes will not benefit as much as sunnier spots. Similarly, huge solar installations will naturally cost you more than smaller ones, though there’s no dollar amount cap on the tax credit.

Finally, you may be eligible for more tax incentives from your state government, or installation rebates from your utility company.

To get a better sense of how much money you might save switching to solar energy, try using the solar installation company SunPower’s online calculator. However, for a full analysis of solar panel discounts available to you specifically, it’s best to speak to a tax professional.

How Do I Claim the Solar Panel Tax Credit?

According to TurboTax, to claim the solar panel tax credit, you will need to file IRS Form 5695 as part of the relevant year’s tax return. Part I of the form will help you calculate your tax credit, and that numeric result can then be entered on your 1040.

If you forgot to claim the credit for the year you purchased the panels, you can still file an amended return to claim it.

The post How Does the Solar Panel Tax Credit Work? appeared first on Family Handyman.

My windows are covered with low-E film. It’s a simple solution that makes my home more energy efficient and helps regulate internal temperature all year round.

What Is Low-E Film?

Low-E, or low-emissivity, film is a thin coating applied to window surfaces to reduce heat transfer. It is a sustainability technique that modern day sustainable builders incorporate in their work for a sustainable environment.

The film features microscopic layers of metal or metallic oxide, reflecting heat while still allowing light to pass through. The result? A more comfortable, energy-efficient home environment, with all the natural light you love.

Low-E film pros

• Energy efficiency: By reflecting heat back to its source, low-E film can drastically reduce your energy costs. It keeps your home cooler in the summer by reflecting sunlight and heat outside, and warmer in the winter by reflecting heat back inside.
• Comfort: It helps maintain a consistent, comfortable temperature throughout your home, minimizing hot and cold spots. I have several large windows in my kitchen. In the summer, the room was unbearably hot unless I closed all the drapes and put the air conditioning on full blast. And the same room was bitterly cold in the winter. But with the low-E film in place, the kitchen feels much cozier year-round, apart from on the very hottest and coldest days.
• UV protection: Low-E film blocks up to 99% of the sun’s harmful UV rays, protecting your skin and preventing furnishings and flooring from fading.
• Versatility: It can be applied to existing windows, offering a less expensive and disruptive option than full window replacement.

Low-E film cons

• Cost: While less expensive than full window replacements, the initial cost might still be higher than other window treatment options.
• Aesthetics: Some people may not like the slightly shiny appearance of low-E film, which can change the look of your windows.
• Professional installation: In the U.S., it’s hard to find direct-to-consumer low-E film to self-install. Pro installation adds to the cost.

Low-E Film vs. Window Insulation

Low-E film and window insulation aim to improve energy efficiency. But they function in different ways, and each has its own advantages.

Window insulation works by creating an airtight seal, reducing drafts and preventing cold air from entering or warm air from escaping. Installing window insulation works best for homes with older, drafty windows, and it’s pretty easy and cost-effective to do yourself — about $2 to $3 per window.

Low-E film, on the other hand, focuses on controlling radiant heat transfer. It’s particularly effective in homes in hot climates or with large, sun-facing windows.

While it doesn’t prevent drafts like window insulation does, it’s less intrusive and can offer significant energy savings. However, because film isn’t typically available to DIY in the U.S., it costs between $4 and $19 per square foot for materials and labor.

Your choice will depend on your home’s specific needs.

Low-E Window Film Installation

While there are many types of DIY window film available to consumers in the U.S., we couldn’t confirm a source for low-E window film sold to consumers for DIY installation. If you buy window film to install yourself, be sure you understand its intended purpose.

I live in the United Kingdom, where DIY low-E film is readily available. I found self-installation a manageable project, although it requires precision to fit correctly, without creases or bubbles. Remember, too, that it goes on the inside of your windows.

Here’s a general how-to:

1. Measure your window: Accurate measurements are key to getting the right fit.
2. Clean your window: Any dirt or dust can interfere with the film’s adhesion.
3. Cut the film: Roll out your film and cut it slightly larger than your window.
4. Apply the film: Spray the window with a wetting solution, remove the backing and apply the film to the glass.
5. Smooth out bubbles: Use a squeegee to remove any bubbles, working from the center outward.
6. Trim excess film: With a sharp knife, carefully trim the edges for a perfect fit.
7. Wait: Check the manufacturer’s directions to see how long you need to wait for the film to fully adhere before you start using the window again.

Low-E Window Film Maintenance

Maintaining your low-E film is straightforward. Cleaning can be done with standard glass cleaning products and a soft cloth or squeegee.

Avoid any abrasive materials that could scratch the film. I use a simple 50/50 white vinegar and water spray and a microfiber cloth.

Maximizing the Energy Efficiency of Your Windows

There’s not much point in installing low-E film if you’ve got drafty frames and other heat transfer problems. Since you’re already giving your windows a thorough cleaning to install the film, you may as well take advantage and do some other window winterizing tasks.

Start with checking the seals around the frame, inside and out. If the caulk is old, degraded or damaged in any way, it’s a really good idea to remove the old stuff and re-caulk your windows, inside and out.

Next, check the exterior of your windows and, if you don’t have it already, add weather stripping. If you do and it’s damaged, replace it. And consider installing storm windows to add an extra layer of protection during the winter months.

The post How Low-E Film Can Benefit Your Home and Wallet appeared first on Family Handyman.

But how do you know which curtains to buy, and are they even suitable for your needs and space? Consider this your introductory guide to soundproof curtains — what they are, how they work, and what to consider before buying a set. At the end, you’ll also find five reliable brands to suit a variety of needs.

What Are Soundproof Curtains?

As the name suggests, soundproof curtains — aka acoustic curtains — reduce noise. Made of heavy materials like polyester or microfiber, soundproof curtains absorb quieter noises and muffle louder ones from outside, promoting better sleep and relaxation in the home.

Additionally, many soundproof curtains offer blackout and thermal insulation, keeping out excess sunlight and reducing your energy bill. Be aware that soundproof curtains aren’t the same as acoustic wall installations or other hardcore soundproofing in the home.

How Do Soundproof Curtains Work?

According to enoisecontrol.com, soundproof curtains reduce the noise entering a space and reflected inside it. Higher quality materials yield better soundproofing.

Materials can vary based on needs. Soundproof curtains for the home don’t need to be as heavy-duty as those in industrial factories. Depending on the materials, soundproof curtains can reduce the transmission of sound by up to 29 decibels.

Are Soundproof Curtains Right for You?

You don’t need to be a professional musician to benefit from soundproof curtains. Still, ask yourself a few questions before you invest in any type of curtain.

Are you willing to block light from your space to reduce the sound? Since many soundproof curtains aren’t machine washable, are you OK with cleaning them by hand?

Finally, soundproof curtains are often quite heavy, so consider the strength of your curtain rods before purchasing. You may need to invest in new rods as well, so be sure to factor that into your budget.

Which Soundproof Curtains Are Worth the Money?

Once you decide to purchase soundproof curtains, weigh the different models against your personal needs. Here are five of our favorite soundproof curtains for the home, in a range of capacities and prices.

Nicetown Custom 2 Layers 100% Blackout Curtain

Material: Polyester.

Price: $35.96 for a set of two.

Why we love them: Made of two hearty fabric layers, these come in a wide range of sizes and more than 30 colors. Their triple-weave fabric blocks noise and UV light, even in lighter tones. They’re also easy to hang. Unfortunately, they do need to be hand-washed.

$44.05 at Amazon

BGMent Insulated Blackout Soundproof Curtains

Material: Polyester.

Price: $13.12 for a set of two.

Why we love them: These curtains also come in more 30 colors and 11 sizes. Their triple-weave but slightly thin fabric is perfect for buyers who want to block noise while still letting some light in. They’re also thermal insulated and come with metal grommets, making them easy to hang. Machine wash and dry. Plus, you can’t beat that price!

$12.58 at Amazon

RYB Home Three Layers 100% Blackout Soundproof Curtains

Material: Triple-weave fabric with detachable felt liner.

Price: $89.95 for a set of two.

Why we love them: While pricier than other sets, the curtains feature a three-layer design with a detachable felt liner. The liner blocks noise really well and can be removed when soundproofing isn’t necessary.

The curtains also add thermal insulation and next-level light-blocking to create a soundproof, lightproof, cozy haven. They come in more than 15 colors and are customizable when ordered from the website. They can be machine-washed so long as you remove the felt liner first.

$91.95 at Amazon

Moondream Three-in-One Blackout Thermal Soundproof Curtain

Material: Polyester and cotton.

Price: $109 for one panel.

Why we love them: These curtains also feature a triple-layer design. One layer blocks light, another provides thermal insulation, and the final one offers a beautiful cotton overlay. Together, these layers block up to seven decibels of noise and reduce heating costs by up to 37%.

This is an excellent, albeit much more expensive, option for people with standard windows, as the curtains are only available in four sizes. They come in 14 colors and must be dry-cleaned.

$129 at Amazon

Miuco Room-Darkening Blackout Soundproof Curtains

Material: Polyester and polyester-blend fabric.

Price: $34.99 for a set of two.

Why we love them: These two-layer curtains block noise and light wonderfully. Their triple-weave construction deadens sound while blocking 98% of sunlight and 100% of UV rays. They only come in three sizes, but their 18 color options are trendy and sophisticated. Better yet, these curtains can be machine washed and dried.

$34.99 at Amazon

The post Should You Get Soundproof Curtains? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Stop Fireplace Heat Loss

Wood-burning fireplaces can warm up a room, but more often, they rob a house of heat by letting it escape up the chimney. If you have a modern fireplace with a cold air intake from outside, make sure you equip it with an airtight door. If you have an older fireplace that uses room air for combustion, equip it with a door that has operable vents. And only keep those vents open when you have a fire in the fireplace. Otherwise, heat will constantly be sucked out of the house.

Airtight doors have gaskets that seal the doors to stop air leaks. Prices are more expensive than regular doors, but they’ll pay for themselves in energy savings.  Also consider other fireplace draft stoppers such as chimney-top dampers, which stops heat loss.

Install Thermal Drapes to Block Drafts

If you’re turning up the heat in the house to compensate for drafty windows, consider quilted or thermal drapes. These drapes can increase your comfort and let you keep the temperature down. They are available in a variety of colors, patterns, and sizes, and can be installed quickly and easily on your existing curtain rod.

Make Your Windows Work for You

Keep open the blinds or drapes on windows with direct sun exposure (usually on the south side of the house) to let the sunlight heat the room. Heating doesn’t get any cheaper than this! At night, close the blinds or drapes to cover the cold glass.

Turn Down the Heat and Still be Comfortable

We all know the mantra by now— turn down the thermostat during the winter months and you’ll save money. And it’s true. According to the Department of Energy, for every degree you lower the thermostat, you’ll save one percent on your energy bill. But turning down the heat has a big drawback—you have to wear extra clothes to stay warm. The solution? Use a space heater to stay comfortable in the room where family members gather, like the living room. Fireplaces and fireplace inserts can provide space heating, but electric heaters are the easiest way to warm up a room.

Baseboard, fan-forced air and oil-filled electric heaters all have roughly the same energy efficiency, although oil-filled units are the quietest (but are also larger and heavier). You’ll have to turn down the heat enough (usually five degrees F or more) to offset the cost of the electricity used by the space heater and still pocket a savings. Space heaters range from basic budget models to expensive, depending on benefits like remote control, a programmable thermostat and safety features.

A towel warmer can act like a small space heater for your bathroom and provide you with a toasty towel after bathing. There are freestanding units and units that mount to the wall and are plugged in or hardwired. Towel warmers don’t save energy, but they can keep you warm in the bathroom when the house thermostat is turned down.

Install Storm Windows

Storm windows aren’t new, but they’re definitely improved: New ones open and close and can be left on year-round. Some offer low-emissivity coatings to further cut heat loss. You can use low-e versions even if your windows already have a low-e coating.

According to the Department of Energy, almost half of U.S. homes have single-pane windows. Windows are major sources of heat loss, but low-e storm windows can reduce that heat loss by more than 50 percent.

You’ll see the biggest payback when they’re used over single-pane windows. But don’t use storm windows over aluminum windows—heat buildup between the two windows can damage the aluminum, and drilling holes for installation can cause leaks.

You can buy or special-order storm windows at home centers, but you may have trouble finding low-e models and may need to search online. Storm windows are much less expensive than replacement windows. Measure the height and width of the window (from the outside) before ordering. Do-it-yourself installation takes about 30 minutes per window.

Seal Basement Air Leaks

Sill plates and rim joists are usually poorly insulated (if at all) and very leaky. Therefore, if you have an unfinished basement, spend some time insulating basement rim joists and sealing the sill plates thoroughly.

Grab some silicone or acrylic latex caulk to seal the sill plate. If you simply have fiberglass insulation stuffed against the rim joists, pull it out. Run a bead of caulk between the edge of the sill plate and the top of the foundation wall. Use expanding spray foam anywhere there are gaps larger than 1/4-inch between the sill and the foundation. For hollow-block foundations, stuff fiberglass insulation in the holes, then seal it with expanding foam.

Caulk along the top and bottom of the rim joists and use expanding foam to seal around holes for electric, water and gas lines. Then cut rigid foam insulation to size and place it against the rim joist. Caulk around all four sides of the foam insulation.

Use an Infrared Thermometer to Find Drafts

If your home is drafty, check it with a thermal leak detector or infrared thermometer. The battery-operated hand-held tool uses infrared sensors to identify spots that are warmer or colder than the surrounding area, signifying an air leak or poor insulation. Of course, you have to do some detective work to figure out the problem and how to fix it.

Add Insulation to Attic

In most homes, but especially in older homes, adding insulation in the attic will cut heat loss. At a minimum, homes should have attic insulation between R-22 and R-49 (6-to 13-inches of loose fill or 7-to 19-inches of fiberglass batts). Check with the local building department or look online to find the recommended level for your area.

Stick your head through the attic access door and measure how much insulation you have. If your insulation is at or below the minimum, adding some will lower your heating bills.

If you need to add more, go with loose-fill insulation rather than fiberglass batts even if you already have fiberglass. Loose fill is usually composed of cellulose or fiberglass and lets you cover joists and get into crevices. You can rent a blower and do the job yourself for less than half that cost of a pro, but it’s a messy job and you have to watch your step so you don’t go through the drywall “floor” in the attic.

Get an Energy Audit

A surefire way to find air leaks and identify insulation problems is to have a home energy audit. The audit, which takes two to three hours, uses a blower door test and an infrared camera to pinpoint leaks and identifies ways to improve energy efficiency. Schedule the audit through your utility company and ask about rebates.

An energy audit is worth the investment because it’s almost impossible to find most sources of energy loss on your own. You’ll get a detailed report listing upgrades you can make to cut heat loss and use less energy.

Energy Saving Myths

Some energy-saving myths have been repeated so many times that people believe they’re true. We’re here to set the record straight.

Myth 1: Replacing windows is a good investment.
New windows can increase security and comfort, but they’ll take 20 to 30 years to pay for themselves. Replacing single-pane windows with double-pane low-e windows will save energy and money, according to the Energy Star program Web site, but In a house with 20 windows, it’ll take you almost 24 years to recoup the cost of the new windows.

Myth 2: Exterior caulking is the best way to seal leaks.
Done correctly, exterior caulking keeps out water. But if you want to make your house more energy efficient, work inside, not outside. Seal attic air leaks and spray expanding foam in basement leaks, such as around cables coming into the house.

Myth 3: Closing registers saves energy.
Most heating duct systems have so many leaks that closing heating vents in unused rooms won’t force more warm air into other rooms—it will force more air out of the leaks.

In addition, forced-air heating systems are designed to operate with all of the registers open. The fixed-speed blower won’t perform as well with registers closed and can create a whistling in the ducts.

If in the winter you want to close off a portion of your house, like the upstairs, talk to a rep from your furnace company or a heating specialist to determine the best way to save energy with your furnace.

The post 9 Home Energy Conservation Tips for the Winter appeared first on Family Handyman.

Fossil fuels, including coal, oil and natural gas, are the most important examples of non-renewable resources. Humans burn them to utilize the energy locked within them. All that combustion creates emissions that pollute the air and warm the planet. Plus, the fuels themselves are finite. When they’re gone, they’re gone.

The sun is a much more reliable energy source, continuously pumping out all the energy needed to make life possible on Earth and meet human needs. The Earth is another source of renewable energy, thanks to natural processes that occur underground, in the atmosphere and under the sea.

At present, 20% of electricity in the United States comes from renewable sources. That number promises to increase with improving technologies. Let’s review some promising sources of renewable energy.

Photovoltaic Energy

Sunlight is loaded with high-energy ultraviolet radiation that can generate an electrical voltage in certain combinations of semiconducting elements.

Most people think of photovoltaic (PV) panels when they think of solar energy. Large flat panel arrays (aka solar farms) can supply electricity to entire communities, while smaller arrays can power individual households or even personal electronic devices.

Present-day solar panels are only 25% efficient at best, and manufacturing them consumes non-renewable fossil fuels. So by themselves, PV panels aren’t the final answer to today’s energy needs. They currently supply less than five percent of electricity consumed globally, though that’s expected to increase and possibly overtake coal as soon as 2026. Things are moving fast.

Solar Thermal Energy

Everyone knows the sun generates heat. Some of the ways people can put this to good use include:

• Solar cooking;
• Passive solar heating for homes;
• Solar water heating;
• Desalination of ocean water.

The technology also exists to generate electricity from the heat of the sun. Most solar thermal electricity generators rely on concentrating sunlight on a fluid, superheating it via flat or curved reflectors. The hot fluid circulates through a coil and exchanges its heat with water, which turns to steam and drives a turbine.

Wind Energy

The sun drives Earth’s winds, so wind power is technically a form of solar energy. The sun’s energy has been assimilated by the atmosphere and converted to mechanical energy that can drive turbines to produce electricity. Wind turbines have efficiencies of up to 50% and currently supply almost seven percent of the world’s electricity.

Collections of wind turbines that generate electricity on a large scale are known as wind farms, on land (onshore) or in coastal seas (offshore). Smaller turbines that supply electricity to individual homes are becoming increasingly common. But because the wind is unreliable, most homeowners use them to supplement power from other sources.

Hydro Energy

When water falls from a high elevation to a lower one, its kinetic energy can spin a turbine. Today, hydropower is the No. 1 form of renewable energy on Earth, supplying 17% of the world’s electricity.

Most hydropower comes from large dams or major waterfalls, like Niagara Falls, the birthplace of the world’s electric grid. Seven countries — China, Brazil, the U.S., Canada, India, Japan and Russia — produce the bulk of the world’s hydropower, but many others generate significant amounts. Homeowners with fast-moving streams on their properties can also use small turbines to supplement their electrical needs.

Tidal Energy

The sun’s energy, the Earth’s rotation and the gravitational forces of the sun, moon and planets combine to produce ocean currents. They have enough mechanical energy to produce significant amounts of electricity.

Several technologies exist to harness this energy, but the most common are:

• Tidal barrages: Placed in the mouths of large rivers or in lagoons function like dams. They force tidewater to back up to create a height differential, then use the spillover to spin turbines.
• Underwater tidal turbines: Similar to wind turbines, they generate electricity by spinning.

Today, tidal energy doesn’t account for a significant portion of the world’s electricity. But with developing technologies, it could supply as much as 10% in the future.

Geothermal Energy

Earth’s core is as hot as the surface of the sun. Just below the Earth’s surface, the temperature is a steady 57 degrees. That’s enough heat for ground-source heat pumps to provide warm air for buildings.

But that’s just the beginning. At greater depths and near fissures, geysers and volcanoes, hydrothermal reservoirs are far hotter — around 360 degrees and above. Technologies exist to tap into this heat and use it directly for warming, or to boil water for steam to drive turbines.

Geothermal energy accounts for less than one percent of the world’s energy supply, but it’s largely an untapped resource. In the U.S., its availability has been growing two percent per year since 2016. Electricity from U.S. geothermal plants is projected to triple by 2050.

The post 6 Types of Renewable Energy appeared first on Family Handyman.

What Is a Whole House Fan?

A whole-house fan is a large electric fan, usually centrally located within a home or other building, that circulates air through the entire place. It pulls in fresh air from open windows and doors and pushes hot air out and into an attic, where it can then escape through attic vents.

Whole House Fans vs. Attic Fans: What’s the Difference?

An attic fan is made specifically to ventilate an attic, pulling out hot, stale air so that heat and humidity don’t build up in your attic. An attic fan helps prevent problems like mold and mildew from the space and even helps extend the life of your roof by preventing problems like ice dams in the winter and excessive heat buildup in the summer.

How Does a Whole House Fan Work?

The basic concept is simple: An attic-mounted fan pushes hot air out through attic vents and draws cooler, outside air in through open doors and windows. This rapid air exchange—large fans can purge a house of hot air in two to three minutes—not only removes built-up heat but also creates a pleasant breeze.

A whole house fan can turn over the air in a home up as much as six times an hour, depending on the size of the house.

When you use a whole-house fan, it’s important to open doors and windows. Otherwise the fan may cause gas-burning appliances, such as your furnace or water heater, to backdraft exhaust fumes and carbon monoxide into your home. Whole house fans are not allowed in all areas. You should check your local building codes before buying one.

How whole house fans keep a home cool and save on energy costs

Depending on the severity of your summers, a fan can work as an efficient pre-chiller before you switch on your air conditioner, or even as your sole source of cooling. Using only a tenth as much power as your air conditioner, a fan bringing in cooler night and/or morning air can lower inside temperatures by 5 degrees or more in just a few minutes and help you save on energy costs.

For homeowners living in dry climates with wide day/night temperature swings, you may be able to do without the air conditioner by simply switching the fan on during cool hours and then turning off the fan and shutting the house during the hottest times of the day.

Whole-house fans aren’t perfect. They can’t cool inside temps lower than outside temps, nor can they dehumidify. If you live in a humid region, you’ll still need to lean on your air conditioner in the dog days of summer. And while most folks may prefer fresh outside air, if you suffer from allergies, realize that fans draw in outdoor pollen and dust.

How to Choose a Whole House Fan

A local HVAC installer can help you find the fan that best fits your home and climate. Keep in mind that size isn’t everything. Larger fans are great for moving air quickly, but when you weigh the increased size against installation requirements, insulation, appearance, noise and cost, you may opt for a smaller fan. (Depending on your needs and floor plan, several smaller fans may provide better airflow.)

Attic ventilation is almost as important as the fan. A fan won’t work if the hot air doesn’t have an easy way out; without adequate ventilation the fan may force hot air down on you! Fans require 1 sq. ft. of net free vent area per 750 cfm. If you don’t want to install additional venting, it may make sense to stick with a smaller fan.

These days, there are several different types of fans to choose from. In addition to the large traditional models, manufacturers have come up with types that are easier to install and better insulated.

Before you buy, contact your utility company to see if you’re eligible for an energy rebate. You may also be able to reclaim a portion of the cost as an energy tax credit on your income taxes.

Types of Whole House Fans

Standard fan

Because they’re the most affordable and widely available, large-diameter fans are still a good solution for homeowners living in warmer regions. These fans cost less up front, but installation may be more difficult. Moving a joist in order to frame out a box for the fan, or installing additional attic venting might wind up costing more than the fan itself. Another disadvantage is that during the winter, the vented opening works like an open window, giving warm moist air an easy path out and into your attic. To prevent heat loss, you’ll need to build an insulated box to cover your fan during the off-season.

Pros

• Affordable
• Larger, more powerful

Cons

• Installation can be more difficult
• Heat loss in the winter without adding insulation

Insulated-door fan

If you live in an area with frequent cold snaps, you’ll want a fan that holds in the heat when it’s not in use. Door fans come with insulated (R-22 or R-38) panels that open every time you turn the fans on. This feature not only helps during winter months but also keeps heat out during the summer when you’re running your AC.

These models don’t move as much air as standard fans, but they tend to run quieter, so they can be run all night. Like standard fans, these units are usually installed in a hallway, but some smaller models are specially designed to fit in between or around existing trusses or joists to make installation easier.

Pros

• Insulated panels add to efficiency
• Quieter than standard fans

Cons

• Don’t move as much air as standard fans
• More expensive

Inline fan

Fan/insulated duct units don’t move as much air as standard fans, but by investing in one fan per bedroom, you can provide a breeze effect in the room(s) you most want to cool. The small intake port is not only less obtrusive than the large louvered panels needed with other fans but also easier to install. (A flexible duct connects the intake port to the fan.) Like insulated door fans, inline fans have damper doors within them that prevent warm air from leaking out in winter.

Pros

• Perfect for single rooms
• Easy to install
• Damper doors

Cons

• Only works for individual rooms and smaller spaces
• Not as powerful

The post How to Choose the Best Whole House Fan for Your Home appeared first on Family Handyman.

Best Overall Solar Pool Cover

Sun2Solar Blue 1200 Series Solar Cover

Crafted from durable and ultraviolet (UV)-resistant material, this best solar pool cover from Sun2Solar offers outstanding protection against the elements, keeping your pool water warm and free of debris. Sunlight is about to fully penetrate through, thanks to the translucent materials, creating a natural greenhouse effect that warms up water with maximum heat retention. The bubbled surface traps and transfers solar energy effectively by creating an insulating layer that prevents heat and moisture from escaping.

Using the Sun2Solar solar cover couldn’t be simpler—just place it on top of the water, bubble-side down, and ensure it’s unfurled from edge to edge. Its 16-foot-by-20-foot footprint is large enough to fit most standard rectangular above-ground pools snugly and securely. Built-in grommets help secure the cover in place, preventing wind from blowing it away.

“Wow!!!” writes five-star reviewer, Ira. “All I have to say is that I’ve had the blue pool cover before and it didn’t heat up my pool as fast as the clear cover has heated it up. I would buy it again when needed, and I completely recommend buying the clear pool solar cover. My pool is so very warm and I love it!!!”

Pros

• Effectively retains heat
• Reduces water evaporation
• Saves energy
• Easy to install
• Made of durable resin

Cons

• Some reviewers say it’s a bit thin
• Options for rectangular and square pools only

$149.99 at Amazon

Best Budget Solar Pool Cover

Intex Easy Set Solar Cover

Crafted with durable and UV-resistant material, this high-quality solar cover from Intex provides exceptional protection against the elements. Sunlight passes through its transparent design to create a natural greenhouse effect that heats your pool water in the most energy-efficient way possible. Thousands of small bubbles on the surface maximize heat retention, creating an insulating layer that prevents heat from escaping and water from evaporating.

Using this best solar pool cover is easy and hassle-free. Simply lay it across the surface of your swimming pool, ensuring full coverage from edge to edge—no additional tools required! Built to last for years to come, the Intex solar cover is resistant to fading, deterioration and damage from UV rays.

“My pool when I opened it on May 3rd was 56 degrees. We haven’t gotten any sun recently and my pool is under heavy shade. We just received the solar blanket this week and the pool water rose 10 degrees overnight, and when checked today, the water was 70 degrees. That’s incredible for the fact that no sun was shining on it and it worked simply off of trapping heat and preventing evaporation,” writes Lauren, a verified purchaser.

Pros

• Wallet-friendly
• Easy to use
• Available in multiple diameters
• Reduces evaporation by 95%

Cons

• Can blow away in windy conditions

$36.14 at Amazon

Best Solar Pool Cover for Hot Tubs

Spa Depot Thermo-Float Floating Spa Blanket

The Thermo-Float floating spa blanket is the best solar pool cover for hot tubs, plunge pools and other small, intimate pools. Designed with advanced technology and premium materials, it’s constructed with a 16-millimeter thick layer of durable and UV-resistant material, creating a barrier that helps trap and retain heat. The innovative design features thousands of tiny air pockets that insulate the water, minimizing heat loss and preventing evaporation.

“The day we lost power here in Texas for three days cause of the snow, this literally saved our hot tub from freezing the water and possibly messing up the pipes. We honestly recommend this product if you get a lot of snow in your area,” shares five-star reviewer, Joshua.

Pros

• Can cut down to size
• Durable construction
• Easy to install
• UV-resistant
• Energy-saving

Cons

• Not as durable as a hard hot tub cover

$54.95 at Amazon

Best Round Solar Pool Cover

Lxkckj Pool Cover Protector

Designed with premium features and exceptional durability, this pool cover protector is just the thing for round, above-ground swimming pools. Made from sturdy and waterproof silver-coated material, this solar pool cover offers maximum resistance against the elements, animals, leaves and other debris. The silver-coated material is resistant to fading, cracking and UV damage, so you won’t need to worry about replacing it every season.

The convenient drawstring closure system ensures a secure and snug fit, allowing you to tighten the cover effortlessly. The generous size offers full coverage, and thanks to the drawstring, the wind won’t lift or dislodge it. When not in use, this pool cover easily folds up and fits into the included storage bag.

“I bought this cover last year to cover our stock tank pool after daily use,” writes verified buyer, Stephanie H. “It worked great all summer. We had a quick transition into fall and we didn’t have the chance to drain our pool all the way before putting the cover on for the winter. I live in Seattle so we got about 665,577,678 feet of rain during the winter. The top did dip in quite a bit, but after using the sump to get the water off the cover and a net to get the 50 pounds of leaves off, there was nothing but crystal-clear water in the stock tank. I was shocked!!! I was ready for a mosquito swamp and five days of cleaning, but that wasn’t the case at all.”

Pros

• Available in eight round sizes
• Highly durable
• Fits snugly
• Weighs under 3 pounds

Cons

• Needs to be staked down in especially severe weather

$42.99 at Amazon

Best Solar Pool Cover for In-Ground Pools

Ardila Veela Heavy Duty Solar Blanket Cover

A large in-ground pool needs a large, rugged cover like this heavy-duty solar blanket. Its sturdy design and reinforced stitching ensure maximum durability, and it’s tough enough to stand up to all sorts of inclement weather. The UV-resistant material prevents this best solar pool cover from fading or cracking. Heavy-duty straps and buckles hold the cover down, and because they’re adjustable, you can always expect a tight and secure fit. For even easier installation, pair it with a pool cover reel.

“This cover fits my solar blanket reel (18 feet) perfectly,” writes Marilyn B., a five-star reviewer. “It fits around the solar blanket when rolled on the reel with extra room and my cover is 40 feet long. It’s lightweight, yet sturdy, and has withstood 60 mph wind gusts during storms. Definitely worth the money. I’ll never use anything different or the plastic covers that come with a solar blanket again. Goodbye, clothespins to hold the cover on the reel.”

Pros

• Made of durable fabric, not plastic
• Has adjustable straps
• Includes heavy-duty buckles
• Weighs under 2 pounds

Cons

• Pool cover reel not included

$30.99 at Amazon

VIA MERCHANT

Best Clear Solar Pool Cover

Blue Wave Pool Solar Blanket

$99.99 at Amazon

What to Consider When Buying a Solar Pool Cover

When buying a solar pool cover, the first thing to consider is the size and shape of your pool. Make sure the cover matches the dimensions of your pool, and remember to make allowances for features like steps, slides and diving boards. Your solar pool cover should be made of durable and UV-resistant material, such as vinyl or polyethylene, that can withstand prolonged exposure to sunlight without deteriorating.

Additionally, consider how easy it will be to cover your pool when not in use, especially if you do the job solo. “Thicker covers are heavier, offer greater warming power and carry longer warranty coverage, but they also cost more,” says DeBolt. Thinner covers are more affordable, lighter and easier to handle, but they don’t warm the water as much and typically don’t last as long, he adds.

“If you live in a windy area, need more heat in your pool and you’re okay with spending a little extra, a 16-mil cover might be what you need. If you live in a hot climate and are mainly looking for an evaporation barrier to conserve water, you may only want a thinner 8-mil cover,” explains DeBolt.

Why You Should Trust Us

I’m an award-winning writer and author specializing in home goods, kitchen equipment and pet supplies. With nearly 20 years of experience testing and vetting products, I bring a wealth of knowledge to my reviews. As an avid DIYer, I understand the practical aspects of product use. In addition to Family Handyman, my work has been published in the Washington Post, Food & Wine, Bon Appétit and more.

For additional insight into the best solar pool covers, we interviewed Greg DeBolt, the talent program leader for pool, equipment, water and technical training at Leslie’s, the largest direct-to-consumer pool and spa care retailer in the U.S. With 35 years of experience at the company, DeBolt’s extensive knowledge of pool care and equipment provided valuable expertise for our article.

How We Found the Best Solar Pool Covers

We thoroughly researched various options to find the best solar pool covers, considering factors like heat retention, durability and ease of installation. We interviewed a pool expert to get professional insights into the most important features of a solar cover. Additionally, we reviewed customer feedback to ensure our recommendations were based on real-world performance.

FAQ

The post 6 Best Solar Pool Covers to Trap in Heat appeared first on Family Handyman.

Building sustainably doesn’t always involve new and innovative building products. Sometimes it takes a traditional building method, modified to improve energy efficiency. That’s exactly what we did when designing the framing for our Sustainable Retreat.

We wanted to keep it simple and efficient, so we built double 2×4 walls. This double-walled framing technique adds lots of insulation and removes the heat transfer that happens through the studs. This path to sustainable home building succeeds by using a skill anyone can learn, instead of experimenting with a new material.

Frame the outer walls

Begin by building the exterior walls as normal. Start with a top and bottom plate cut to the length of the wall and mark out the 16 inches on-center stud layout, as well as the window locations with jack and king studs.

On a standard roof with a ridge beam, the layout is marked on the top and bottom plate at the same time. On this shed-style type of roof, we laid out the heights of the walls on the floor to transfer the layout to the top plate and get an accurate measurement for each stud.

Tip up the outer walls

Cut all the studs, including the jack, king and cripple studs for the windows. Line them up with the layout marks and nail them through the plates. Tip up each wall as you build them, brace them plumb and fasten them together at the corners.

Pro tip: When building a shed-style roof, save yourself time and write down the measurement for the studs so you don’t have to re-measure for the opposite side.

Lay out the inner walls

Once the exterior walls are tipped up, cut a 2×4 bottom plate three inches shorter than the distance between the walls. Place it between the walls with a 2×4 block spacer at the ends. Then copy the layout of the exterior walls onto the new bottom plate. Transfer the marks to the top plate, then cut the studs and build the wall.

Tip up the inner walls

We built the end walls first and tipped them up as they were built. We used a 2×4 spacer between the inner and outer walls to position them and nailed them through the bottom plate. We make sure we nailed them into the joist below and not just the subfloor whenever possible.

Framing the window openings

Transferring the stud layout from the outer to the inner wall makes it easy to match the window openings. But at the windows, not all the framing parts need to be transferred to the inner wall.

Since the outer wall bears the weight of the roof, it will contain any headers, jack and king studs, reducing the amount of framing material needed and maximizing the insulation space of the inner wall.

Insulation installation

After sheathing and roof installation, the final step to making these walls extra efficient is filling the stud spaces with insulation.

We started by filling the outer wall with mineral wool insulation, a sustainable home insulation option, cutting the batts to fit the stud bays. Then we did the same with the inner wall. Lastly, we covered the wall with a vapor barrier before installing the wallboard.

The post How to Frame a Structure Using Energy-Saving Techniques appeared first on Family Handyman.

Best Overall Eco-Friendly Dishwasher

Bosch 300 Series Top-Control Dishwasher

The Bosch 300 Series is one of the best eco-friendly dishwashers, complete with an advanced precision washing system for the optimal amount of water to clean your dishes. The PureDry technology pulls water off plates and cups and onto the stainless steel interior without a heating element, which means it can easily wash and dry plastics, like baby bottles.

Moreover, the dishwasher has five cycle options, including a National Sanitation Foundation-Certified Sanitization cycle to eliminate 99.9% of bacteria. We’re also big fans of the third rack for silverware, and the adjustable upper rack and flexible tines for larger pots and pans.

Pros

• Precision washing system
• Has a third rack
• Includes flexible tines
• Quiet 48-decibel (dB) sound rating

Cons

• No pre-soak cycle

Shop Now

Best Budget Eco-Friendly Dishwasher

Whirlpool Front-Control Dishwasher

The Whirlpool front-control dishwasher offers great value on a budget. A quick cycle washes and dries dishes in under an hour, and it has enough space to fit 13 place settings. It also features a heated dry option and a soil sensor for a thorough clean each time. Customers were shocked at how well this affordable eco-friendly dishwasher cleaned dishes without pre-soaking.

Two more huge bonus points is you can easily install the dishwasher on your own, and it’s designed, engineered and assembled in the U.S.

Pros

• Entry-level price
• Quick setting cleans dishes in under an hour
• Has a soil sensor
• Easy installation

Cons

• 55-dB sound rating is on the louder side

Shop Now

Pro Tip: Check here how to install a dishwasher and avoid the most common mistakes while you put them.

Best Eco-Friendly Dishwasher for Small Spaces

Comfee Countertop Dishwasher

The Comfee countertop dishwasher is the ideal solution for those in studio apartments, college dorms or RVs. Fit up to six place settings (though the dishes can’t be larger than 10 inches in diameter) and choose from eight different cycles. Many shoppers also use this for cleaning baby toys and toddler dishes since it reaches temperatures that inhibit bacterial growth.

Here’s the best part: This best eco-friendly dishwasher is easy to use. Simply place it on a stable surface, connect it to a water source (there’s an optional adapter to connect it to the faucet) and plug it in. Since it only weighs 46 pounds, storing this portable dishwasher is doable when it’s not in use.

Pros

• Compact and portable
• Has eight washing cycles
• Features an extra-drying option
• Affordable

Cons

• Can’t fit full-sized dinner plates

$299.99 at Amazon

Best Smart Eco-Friendly Dishwasher

Sharp Top-Control Smart Dishwasher

“Alexa, turn on the dishwasher.” That’s how easy it is to start the Sharp smart dishwasher. But wait, there’s more—you can also set up your Alexa, aka Amazon’s virtual assistant, to alert you when you’re running low on detergent. The LED interior lighting is a nice touch, as well.

This modern eco-friendly dishwasher comes with an adjustable upper and third rack to accommodate larger pots and pans. It also has a Power Wash sprayer that eliminates the need for pre-soaking dishes. The fingerprint-resistant stainless steel keeps the dishwasher looking nice—a big plus for anyone with children.

Pros

• Can control via Amazon Alexa
• Includes Amazon Dash replenishment service
• Adjustable upper and third racks
• LED interior lighting

Cons

• On the pricier side

Shop Now

Best Splurge Eco-Friendly Dishwasher

Miele Top-Control Smart Dishwasher

The customer reviews for the Miele smart dishwasher assure us that this high-end dishwasher is well worth its hefty price tag. Our favorite feature is the automatic dishwasher detergent-dispensing system with PowerDisk, which pulls just the right amount of soap needed for each load (each PowerDisk lasts about a month). It also has a built-in water softener to reduce cloudiness, and an automatic door-opening system for dry dishes. Control the dishwasher through the Miele app, available for iPhone and Android.

Pros

• Automatic detergent-dispensing system
• Door-opening system for perfectly dry dishes
• Can delay washing for up to 24 hours
• Quiet 43-dB sound rating

Cons

• More difficult installation

Shop Now

Most Quiet Eco-Friendly Dishwasher

Samsung Linear Wash Top-Control Smart Dishwasher

Did you know the Samsung smart dishwasher is so quiet that several customers thought it wasn’t working? Some even say they had to put their ear on the machine to hear anything. It clocks in with a sound rating of 39 dB, which is quieter than most modern refrigerators. Plus, the linear wash system reaches every corner of this reliable dishwasher, leaving no mess untouched. There’s no heated dry option, though the door opens at the end of each cycle to promote airflow to dry dishes.

Pros

• Whisper-quiet 39-dB sound rating
• Fingerprint-resistant stainless steel
• Zone Booster area efficiently cleans caked-on messes
• Flexible third rack

Cons

• No heated drying option

Shop Now

Best Eco-Friendly Dishwasher for Drying

Frigidaire Top-Control Dishwasher

Say goodbye to water droplets on your plates and glasses with the Frigidaire dishwasher. It has EvenDry technology that’s similar to a convection oven, as it circulates heat around the dishwasher to prevent wet dishes fresh from the cycle. Buyers say there’s no need for a post-wash towel dry with this best eco-friendly dishwasher.

This dishwasher boasts a BladeSpray arm for even coverage, an adjustable upper rack, a third rack for silverware and a sanitizing option. Oh, and we haven’t even mentioned that you get all that for a value price.

Pros

• Fan-assisted EvenDry system
• Has a sanitize option
• BladeSpray arm for better water coverage
• Features an adjustable upper rack

Cons

• Tines are not flexible

Shop Now

What to Consider When Buying an Eco-Friendly Dishwasher

The first and most important thing to consider when buying an eco-friendly dishwasher is whether it has an Energy Star certification. This mark proves that the appliance meets the strictest standards for water and energy usage, which are set by the U.S. Department of Energy. If it doesn’t have an Energy Star mark, it can’t be considered an eco-friendly dishwasher.

Moreover, look for the decibel level, which tells you the dishwasher’s noise level. Ideally, you want a dishwasher that’s around 40 to 50 decibels or less. Other things to consider include price, how many place settings it can fit, how many cycle options it has, the size and the warranty.

How We Found the Best Eco-Friendly Dishwashers

As shopping experts, our only job is to help you find a winning product. We start with the research and reporting basics—what products are made of, what they look like and how much they cost—to ensure that we’re only recommending the buys that are worth your time and money. Then, we research the features that speak to the product’s quality, taking advice from industry insiders and subject matter experts on what makes a product a smart value (or worthy of a splurge). Finally, we do the work of combing through user reviews to see how real people interact with the product, and if it stands up to the test.

FAQ

What makes a dishwasher eco-friendly?

An eco-friendly dishwasher meets or exceeds the water and electricity standards set by the U.S. Department of Energy. On average, these appliances use less than 4 gallons per load and cost under $40 per year to operate. You’ll cut down on your utility bill with an eco-friendly dishwasher that has an Energy Star certification.

How much do eco-friendly dishwashers cost?

Eco-friendly dishwashers can cost up to $1,500, depending on their size and features, though they can last for up to 20 years if well maintained.

The post 7 Best Eco-Friendly Dishwashers to Save the Environment (and Your Wallet) appeared first on Family Handyman.

Custom Tapered Spa Cover

This tapered spa cover features a key-operated lock, making it a smart choice for security at homes with small children. The triple-reinforced hinge stands up to frequent use and operates smoothly with a separate lifting device. Unlike some covers that have a mesh bottom, this one features a solid bottom that resists damage from pool chemicals, like chlorine and bromine.

Shop on Wayfair

Deluxe Hot Tub Cover

This high-quality, durable cover from The Cover Guy stands up to harsh winter conditions and, thanks to its high-density foam and marine-grade vinyl construction, it even withstands heavy snow or ice accumulation. Its materials also won’t absorb any moisture—from the full hot tub or from rain—so this cover won’t get waterlogged and lose effectiveness. Four lockable tie-downs ensure that it won’t blow away, either.

$489.98 at Amazon

Windproof Hot Tub Cover

A hot tub’s hard lid benefits from its own weather protection, especially when positioned in direct sunlight. This Gasadar protector prevents ultraviolet (UV) damage to your expensive foam cover. It uses both drawstrings and buckle straps to make sure it won’t budge in windy climates. Made of heavy-duty 600-denier (D) polyester, it’s both durable and waterproof.

Shop on Amazon

Water-Resistant Hot Tub Cover Cap

If you’d like to match your hot tub cover with the rest of your patio furniture, consider this Classic Accessories cover cap. It fits over your existing hot tub cover and add water resistance. When used with the brand’s furniture covers, sold separately, it gives your outdoor space a high-end, coordinated look.

$56.21 at Amazon

Thermo-Float Bubble Cover

As far as hot tub covers go, consider this a bonus. This thermal blanket mitigates heat loss, as well as prevents the primary foam cover from absorbing any moisture from the water in the tub. It also provides a barrier to keep leaves and debris out when you plan on using the outdoor hot tub regularly and don’t want to replace the heavy foam lid between dips. It comes in one 6-foot by 6-foot size that’s easy to cut to size with a pair of scissors.

$46.95 at Amazon

Custom Hot Tub Cover

Got a non-standard tub? You can order this insulating foam cover customized to fit a wide variety of hot tub sizes and shapes up to 8 feet by 8 feet. The marine-grade vinyl features double-stitched seams that make it durable enough for frequent, long-term use in tough weather conditions. If any issues arise, the manufacturer offers a five-year warranty.

$489.50 at Amazon

Insulator Top Cover

Those who enjoy the space-saving benefits of a compact personal hot tub spa will appreciate this affordable, insulating top cover to retain the water’s heat and keep debris out. At just 13 pounds, it’s also easy for one person to operate without much effort.

Shop on Lowe's

UV-Resistant Hot Tub Cover

The black-and-ivory tweed pattern of this stylish hot tub cover offers an appealing alternative to solid-colored options. Its welded seams provide a sleek look and contoured fit. This cover is also treated with a proprietary “StormBlock” coating, which makes it waterproof, as well as resistant to bird droppings, tree sap and mud.

Shop on Lowe's

Floating Thermal Cover

This floating foam thermal cover goes directly on the water’s surface as a more insulating alternative to the bubble-type, thermal blanket hot tub covers. In addition to preventing contamination by leaves and debris, it helps trap heat inside. This cover comes as a 6-foot by 6-foot sheet, allowing you to cut and shape it with DIY tools to your tub’s precise shape.

$119 at Amazon

Hot Tub Cover for Inflatable

If the cover that came with your Intex inflatable hot tub needs an upgrade, consider this replacement cover. It does double duty to keep the heat in—saving you up to 50% in energy costs—and debris out. “[It’s] the cover that SHOULD come with [the] Intex spa!” raves verified Amazon reviewer, Noah.

$136.99 at Amazon

What to Look for When Buying Hot Tub Covers

• Shape and size: Always measure your hot tub directly for accurate sizing, advises Toedter. Covers can shrink or warp over time, so measuring an old cover can result in a poor fit, causing heat loss and premature cover failure.
• Insulation needs: “An outdoor hot tub in a cold, snowy climate will require a much thicker, better-insulated cover than an outdoor hot tub in moderate temperatures or even an indoor hot tub,” says Toedter. Look for a cover with quality foam insulation to help keep the water warm and save on energy costs, she adds.
• Quality foam: For added reinforcement, Toedter says to look for a cover with sturdy steel channels in the foam to prevent sagging. A tapered foam design also helps the cover shed rainwater and snowmelt easily.
• Materials: Check the quality of the materials, especially the outer vinyl and the stitching, to ensure durability. “The exterior materials should be resistant to fading, able to withstand inclement weather and extreme temperatures and easy to clean and maintain. You want a cover that’s built to last,” notes Toedter.
• Safety: “Look for a cover that meets ASTM safety standards and consider features like locking straps for added safety and ease of use,” advises Toedter.

Why You Should Trust Us

I’m a freelance writer specializing in home improvement, DIY and appliance topics. With more than five years of experience as a residential and commercial carpenter in NYC, where I focused on custom furniture construction and installation, I bring a wealth of real-world expertise and hands-on training to the table. As a writer, I leverage my in-depth knowledge to craft thorough product reviews, insightful buying guides and practical how-to articles for Family Handyman. My work has also been featured in reputable outlets such as CNN Underscored, Business Insider and Popular Mechanics.

For additional insights, we also consulted Alicia Toedter, the Education and Content Leader at Leslie’s, the largest direct-to-consumer pool and spa care retailer in the US. Toedter’s role centers around pool-care education, creating content to help homeowners safely enjoy their pools and spas. She was recently named lifeguard of the month by the company, highlighting her expertise and dedication in the field.

How We Found the Best Hot Tub Covers

To find the best hot tub covers, we researched various options, focusing on durability, insulation and ease of use. We interviewed a pool and spa expert to gain professional insights into what makes a hot tub cover effective and long-lasting. Additionally, we reviewed customer feedback to understand real-world performance and common concerns.

FAQ

What type of hot tub cover is best?

“The highest quality hot tub covers have tapered, closed-cell virgin foam (EPS) panels double-wrapped with polyethylene sheeting to keep the panels from absorbing moisture. This helps the cover last as long as possible,” explains Toedter.

Regarding the best materials, Toedter says the top pick is usually a high-quality, marine-grade UV-resistant vinyl. “Vinyl is durable, weather-resistant and can withstand exposure to the sun, rain and snow. It’s also easy to clean and maintain,” she says.

How do you clean a hot tub cover?

At least once or twice a week, it’s important to let your hot tub cover “breathe” and air dry for a couple of hours to help prevent mold and mildew from growing, says Toedter. “To clean the outside, use mild soap or a special vinyl cleaner and a soft brush or sponge to scrub the cover gently,” she explains. Don’t forget the underside of the cover, too. “As needed, rinse it thoroughly with a hose to remove all the soap, or follow the product label instructions for vinyl cleaners,” she notes.

What is the most common hot tub cover?

According to Toedter, the most common type is a vinyl-wrapped foam core style, also known as a hardcover. “They’re fully customizable in size, shape, thickness and color, and they form a tight seal against the edges of the hot tub for the best insulation,” she says. However, hard covers can be challenging for one person to remove without a cover lift, and the foam core can break under heavy loads or absorb water if the protective casing is damaged.

The post 10 Hot Tub Covers to Keep Your Oasis Clean and Safe From the Elements appeared first on Family Handyman.

As a longtime gardener, I’ve been composting for years. But there are downsides to a home compost pile. For one, it’s very time-consuming. There’s work that goes into chopping corn stalks, gathering leaves (from my neighbors) and turning the pile to aerate it. It takes a year or two to harvest the goodness. In the meantime, weeds can quickly grow in the pile, which I begrudgingly spend time raking to eliminate the roots. What’s a person to do?

Now, there’s a solution with the electric countertop Lomi Composter. Lomi takes care of the clean-up and adds nutrients to the earth in less than a day. I tried it, and it will change the way I deal with food waste forever.

You don’t need to be a worm farmer or gardener to love the Lomi Composter. Apartment dwellers, moms and cooks love how Lomi turns smelly leftovers into dirt that can be thrown in the trash or green bin. No more fruit flies!

More importantly, you can’t put proteins and fats in a backyard compost pile, but you can in the Lomi kitchen composter. I was sold immediately. 

An Expert’s Take on the Importance of Composting

Did you know that the food thrown into the landfills creates methane gas which contributes to climate changing carbon emissions? 

Author of 150 Food Science Questions Answered, Bryan Q. Le, Ph.D., says “Composting is a way to convert food waste into nutrients suitable for use by crops and plants. Without composting, most if not all of the food material would end up in the landfill, where it would slowly decompose anaerobically and release methane gas into the atmosphere. Since methane is a much more potent greenhouse gas than carbon dioxide, it can be a powerful contributor to global warming. As the food waste decays, it can also leech out carbon and nitrogen nutrients into the surrounding environment, which can cause excess growth of bacteria, algae, and other unwanted species or contaminate underground sources of water.”

Dr. Le goes on to say, “Additionally, landfilling food waste leads to indirect losses of nutrients, water, and potential energy. All of the original inputs that led to the production of the food are no longer accessible once the food has been wasted. Many of those inputs, such as nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, are produced using a tremendous amount of energy and mining labor. Composting helps to return those nutrients back into the soil, where it can contribute to the next crop harvest, versus being buried underneath thousands of tons of waste.”

As European countries and some U.S states are imposing laws and high fees for green bin services, composting food waste will become the norm, even for non-gardeners. So, are you going to hop aboard the composting bandwagon?

What is the Lomi Composter?

This electric kitchen composter is a hassle-free way to turn food scraps into rich compost. The Lomi Composter is a countertop appliance that breaks down kitchen waste, including vegetables, meats, proteins and most leftovers (unlike traditional composting methods). The unit grinds and heats the food scraps, and it magically breaks down the food to 20 percent of its original form. 

The Lomi Composter is a beautiful white appliance with a 2.5-liter bucket. Similar to the size of a bread-maker, the Lomi is 16 inches wide, 13 inches deep and 12 inches high. People with limited counter space may prefer to use it in a utility room, garage or basement, which will also help reduce the noise of the Lomi while it’s working. 

Activated carbon for filtration is included, which effectively reduces odors. The charcoal needs to be changed every three to six months, depending on use. The package also includes 45 LomiPods to add microbes to the compost.

Additionally, Lomi offers convenient subscriptions for the carbon and the microbial LomiPod tablets at a discounted price. 

As a certified climate-neutral product, the Lomi composter puts nutrients back into the earth while reducing food waste that generates methane in landfills. Ultimately, composting food waste before it hits the landfill will help reduce greenhouse emissions.

Shop Now

Product Features

The Lomi is simple to use and clean, and the result is an 80% reduction in food waste. Plus, it’s hard to beat Lomi’s one-day compost that I can use in my gardens. 

The airtight lid and charcoal filters contain any stinky smells, and the bucket is dishwasher-safe. If you want to watch the Lomi Composter work, purchase the Lomi Skylight lid.

The unit has three operating modes to choose from:

• Eco-Express mode is the quick way to break down your food scraps, but because of the high heat, which kills the microorganisms, the compost isn’t as fertile as it is when using the Grow Mode. Eco-Express is the default mode on the machine, which can easily be changed by simply pushing the button. This mode takes between 3 to 5 hours to complete a cycle.
• Grow mode is for gardeners who want nutrient-rich compost. This mode takes up to 20 hours to complete a cycle. By using a slower process, Lomi retains the microbes. And if you use the LomiPods, you add even more microbes to the mix.
• Lomi-Approved mode is used for composting approved bioplastics and compostable packaging. I believe this future-forward setting will be used more as companies get on the Climate-Neutral bandwagon and shift their packaging practices. The packaging that Lomi arrives in can even be composted in this mode!

How I Tested It

First, I read through the instruction manual and learned that there are three Lomi modes to choose from: The Eco-Express mode, the Lomi-Approved mode and the Grow mode. As a gardener, I was most interested in the Grow mode, so that I could use it in my organic vegetable garden. 

Set up was simple. Lomi gives you two packages of activated charcoal to put in the filter compartments. The purpose of the activated carbon is to absorb the smells—and it does!

I had saved up coffee grounds and cleaned out my refrigerator. I had half a head of wilted celery in the bottom of the crisper drawer, avocado skins (pits can’t go in the Lomi), banana peels and leftover ham and lentil soup (yes, Lomi can compost meat and dairy in addition to vegetables and bread).

Using Eco-Express Mode

I decided to try the Eco-Express Mode first. I put in a LomiPod tablet, but didn’t add any water as this tip wasn’t included in the instruction manual.

The Lomi videos show that you can use the boxes’ packaging as part of the Lomi “brown” ingredient. But coffee grounds and filters are considered brown materials in traditional composting, so I didn’t add any cardboard or paper products to the mix. I chopped up the celery into manageable pieces. I put the unit in the basement in case the noise was bothersome (to my dog), but mainly because it’s where I have an available 3-prong power outlet. 

Within minutes of plugging it in, I detected a faint celery smell upstairs. Several hours later, I went downstairs to check it out. Just as promised, the full bucket had broken down into a dry and fibrous material (not dirt). It had a fresh sweet scent.

Using Grow Mode

A few days later, I had a bunch of green bananas that never ripened but became hard instead (I hate when that happens). I chopped the bananas, some hairy carrots and soft cucumbers, and tore up a used paper plate to add to the bucket. I set the machine on Grow mode and added a tablet and 2 ounces of water.

The next day, the bucket contents were reduced to a few handfuls of nice smelling compost that looked like super finely shredded bark. I was excited that it did its job in less than a day, otherwise I’d be looking at those hairy carrots on the pile for months!

Here’s What I Learned

Each cycle thereafter was easy and convenient to break down, and the activated carbon kept the smells contained in the machine. I’ve even left the decomposed material in the bucket for several days after running it and was afraid I would find mold or a horrific smell when I opened the Lomi. Instead, I had beautiful compost that I put in my sleeping garden.

Upon further research, I learned that adding new food scraps to the previously-composted material make the next batch of compost even richer. Since the Lomi breaks down a full bucket of food scraps into a cup or two, there’s still plenty of room in the bucket to add more. I also learned that the tablets aren’t really necessary, but the microbes can be beneficial for garden compost.

My main goal with the Lomi was to break down my food waste so that I didn’t attract critters to my yard. During the winter months, I don’t throw much on the compost pile because I like to harvest my black gold in the spring without dealing with chunks of half-rotted winter waste. 

Receiving the Lomi in the winter months was perfect. I’ve been tossing the new compost into my garden beds and compost pile as I patiently wait for planting season.

Gardeners should mix one part Grow mode compost with 10 parts garden soil. Some gardeners store their Lomi compost in a plastic tub for later use or to start worm farms. The bucket is easy enough to tote to my compost pile, even in the winter. However, I love the idea of storing the compost in the winter to avoid stray weed seeds.

Since my lawn mower mulches and I don’t have a big leaf problem, I think I’ll turn that old compost pile into a watermelon plot!

Pros

• Eco-friendly
• Reduces food waste by 80%
• Makes nutrient-rich fertilizer
• No more stinky garbage
• Odor-free operation
• Easy to use
• Easy to clean
• Net zero impact
• Can compost animal products
• One-year happiness guarantee

Cons

• Must cut ingredients in small pieces
• Some users report faulty fans
• Pricey

Shop Now

FAQ

Can paper towels go in a Lomi Composter? 

Yes, paper towels can go into your Lomi as long as they are mixed in with other green matter. It’s also best to tear them up a bit and stuff them to the sides of the machine. I put coffee filters and paper plate pieces in my Lomi and have only found one chunk that didn’t get shredded by the machine.

How much electricity does Lomi use? 

Not much. Lomi claims that they have the only electric appliance with a net positive impact.

The Eco-Express cycle takes 3 to 5 hours to complete and uses 0.5 kWh. Whereas the Grow mode takes up to 20 hours and only uses 1 kWh (1 kWh is equivalent to cooking in an oven for 30 minutes or using a 100w lightbulb for 10 hours).

What Other Users Had to Say

Amazon customer Silverbelle1019 gave Lomi 5-stars, writing, “I love my Lomi Composter.. my plants are flourishing as a result of using high nutrient co.post in the soil. I may never make enough compost to justify the cost, but I am recycling lots of organic waste and helping keep it out of garbage dumps. It is efficient and odorless.”

A verified Amazon Customer says, “Visually looks nice, sits on my counter and doesn’t take up too much space. The bucket is a bit small but it works. I have a family of 6 and quite a bit of organic waste daily. I run it daily and it keeps the garbage manageable”. And goes on to say, “Lomi helps me not have to make a trip to take out the garbage as often and helped to get rid of the fly issue that was happening when we threw the organic waste in the cart provided by the city. For that, it’s worth the money! Hope it lasts! No issues so far. Been using it daily for a few months now.”

Barb G., verified Lomi customer says, “The LOMI unit is efficient and effective! The aroma of the beautifully prepared compost is natural and clean..it is NOT smelly no matter what other silly people have said. With composting laws in California being what they are, this is a fantastic countertop product. Composting charges are being leveled on households now and kitchen waste cannot go into the waste stream any longer…. We have ours parked in the laundry room on the counter for daily use.”

Final Verdict

Lomi does a great job turning garbage into planet food with the push of a button.

Performance and ease of use are impressive with this kitchen composter. This investment won’t disappoint. It’s superior to the trash compactors from the 80s because it transforms trash into something good for the planet.

The thing I love most is that I won’t have to wait a year to have great compost. It’s a totally different way of composting, and I absolutely love it. 

In my opinion, individual habits do affect our planet. I applaud anyone who thinks about their actions and tries to do better. The Lomi may not be for everyone, but if you can do anything to reduce the amount of food that goes into the landfills, it will help. 

Where to Buy the Lomi Composter

It’s not often that you find a life-changing product, but the revolutionary Lomi Composter qualifies as such. Ready to purchase? Lomi is available on Amazon and the Lomi website. Keep your kitchen clean and fresh and let Lomi take care of your food waste today!

" data-module="content engagement" data-position="embedded links">

" data-name="Shop Now" data-module="affiliate no price button" data-position="" data-button-text="Shop Now">Shop Now

The post Lomi Composter Review: Transforms Food Waste to Compost in 24 Hours! (We Tried It!) appeared first on Family Handyman.

Best Overall Solar Oven

GoSun Fusion Hybrid Solar Oven

Cook after the sun sets with the hybrid GoSun Fusion. This is the best overall hybrid solar oven because of its large capacity and ability to bake, roast and fry your meals. This solar oven has the ability to cook four portions at once. No sun, no problem—this unit can be plugged into a portable power bank or 12V electricity from your RV, car or boat. 

This solar oven is more than an emergency tool, it’s a fun way to cook for free. 

Shop on GoSun

Dimensions: 27.2″ x 11″ x 12″ | Weight: 17.2 pounds | Capacity: 101 ounces | Meals per load: 4-6 | Works at night?: Yes | Works under clouds?: Yes

Best Budget Solar Oven 

Haines SunUp Solar Cooker

The Haines SunUp Solar Cooker has an easy set-up that uses the sun and a simple Dutch oven (included) to cook one-pot meals. You’ll be grateful to have this when the power is out or when you don’t want to heat up the kitchen. All you have to do is grab your sunglasses (these polarized sunglasses will protect your eyes from the glare), go outside and bake some bread!

$109.95 at Amazon

Dimensions: 35″ x 20″ | Weight: 7.04 pounds | Capacity: 4 quarts | Meals per load: Not stated | Works at night?: Not stated | Works under clouds?: Not stated

Best Portable Hybrid Solar Oven 

GoSun Sport-E Hybrid Solar Oven

This GoSun Sport-E solar oven is perfect for dinner for two and can be used day or night with the 12 Volt power cord. Take it on camping trips, or cook at after-dark or during a rainstorm. Forget lugging a camp stove, charcoal and fuel; the seven pound GoSun Sport easily transports to the beach, a boat or the backyard in its convenient carrying case. Grab a power bank for additional functionality.

P.S. If you’re still inclined towards a camp stove, this BioLite EcoZoom Versa stove runs off flammable materials that are easily found at a campsite, like wood, twigs and dried leaves. No more lugging heavy fuel canisters around!

Shop on GoSun

Dimensions: 29″ x 12″ x 6″ | Weight: 7 pounds | Capacity: 40 ounces | Meals per load: 2-3 | Works at night?: Yes | Works under clouds?: Yes

Best Solar Cooker for Backpackers

GoSun Go Portable Solar Oven

The Go Pro Pack is perfect for backpacking, weighing in at only two pounds. This complete kit includes baking pans, a solar dial and carrying bag. The compact unit boils water and cooks a meal for one in 20 to 30 minutes. It even works on partly cloudy days (if you can see a shadow).

Shop on GoSun

Dimensions: 17″ x 9″ x 6″ | Weight: 3.8 pounds | Capacity: 13.5 ounces | Meals per load: 1 | Works at night?: Not stated | Works under clouds?: Yes

Best Solar Oven Kit

Sunflair Portable Solar Oven

The Sunflair portable solar oven has amazing performance features with an easy-to-use design. The kit comes with a lightweight foldable oven plus a thermometer, two baking trays, two dehydrating racks, an enamelware cook pot, two silicone pots and a carrying case. Keep one in your emergency kit or use one everyday, the options are endless!

$199.99 at Amazon

Dimensions: 19″ x 15.5″ x 2″ | Weight: 8 pounds | Capacity: Not stated | Meals per load: Not stated | Works at night?: Not stated | Works under clouds?: Not stated

What to Look for When Buying a Portable Solar Oven

Performance and Portability

Choose a portable solar oven that cooks enough food without adding bulk. Depending on the brand, it should work in direct or partial sunlight. Some models, like the GoSun Fusion, cook under partial cloud cover or connect to electricity for backup power in diverse climates. Since portability is key, opt for a compact, lightweight model, ideally under 10 pounds, like the Go Pro Pack.

Cooking Types and Food Capacity

Different models vary in food capacity and cooking methods. The GoSun Fusion and the Go Pro Pack are great for small snacks, while larger models like the GoSun Fusion can cook four to five servings, ideal for families.

Ease of Use

Portable solar ovens are straightforward, but designs differ. Tube-shaped models are compact and portable, ideal for camping or emergencies. Some ovens offer set-and-forget cooking, while others need minimal monitoring. Follow setup instructions carefully to avoid overcooking or malfunctions.

We evaluated many portable solar ovens on the market to ensure each recommended pick meets our standards. We assessed performance, design, capacity, ease of use and portability. Each selected oven performs excellently when placed under direct sunlight (and even in partial light). Some options also include a backup electrical hookup for versatility. We included varying capacities based on the amount of food you plan to cook. Regarding portability, all selected options can move around if necessary, but some have more compact designs that are travel-friendly. Finally, we included options that require minimal adjustments or feature a “set-and-forget” cooking process.

FAQ

Does a solar oven actually work?

Solar ovens collect sunlight using a foil flap that directs the light into the cooking box. The sun’s rays convert into thermal energy, effectively heating and cooking food. Given their design, solar ovens function well.

What is the hottest a solar oven can get?

Most solar ovens can reach temperatures up to 300 degrees, making them suitable for cooking vegetables, baked goods and meats (which may require longer cooking times).

Do solar ovens work in the winter?

Solar ovens operate effectively in winter months. They only need sufficient sunlight to heat up and cook food, remaining unaffected by the winter chill.

What are the three types of solar ovens?

Box, which traps some of the sun’s energy inside the box, parabolic reflector, which focuses sunlight onto the oven itself, and panel cookers, which use reflective panels to focus the sunlight onto the cooking pot.

Why You Should Trust Us

The post Best Portable Solar Oven Options for On-the-Go Meals appeared first on Family Handyman.

Classic Log Cabin

Solar panels power this classic log cabin, The Shank Wood Cabin from @fishinghideaway. Built with hand-scraped and locally sourced timber, it features wood-burning stoves for heating the interior and the outdoor hot tub, proving you don’t have to sacrifice luxuries to live off-grid.

If you already own one, here are some useful tips on cleaning log cabin exterior. You can also curate a shoreline landscape design for your cabin!

Utilitarian Chic Kitchen

This quaint little cabin by @offgridartstudio, available for rent through Airbnb, features solar power and a nearby composting toilet. The kitchen is basic and functional, but the exposed copper pipes and tongue-and-groove cabinets make it stylishly utilitarian. Notice the chic cabinet handles, fashioned with tree branches from the woods surrounding the cabin.

Warm and Cozy

Living off-grid can be challenging in cold weather. This cabin from @taaylor_rohner is in Alaska, where temperatures can drop way below zero. The wood-burning stove keeps it cozy most the time. But when long nights demand extra warmth, it’s got diesel and wall-mounted propane heaters at the ready.

If you’re facing heating issues at your own home in the woods, you can modernize your cabins with the best off grid power systems and the best off grid water options.

Hot Water Solutions

There are plenty of off-grid water systems to supply your cabin, but @lifewithlaceypark decided to keep it simple. After pumping water from a nearby community well, she heats this charming kitchen with a wood stove. The big pot and kettle hold hot water for washing, eating and drinking.

Solar Power

Solar panel systems power most off-grid cabins. The panels absorb energy from the sun to create electricity, and battery bank stores some of that energy for later use. Installation tip: South-facing solar panels soak up the most sunshine during the year.

Sustainable Insulation

In Scotland, a small hut or cottage is called a bothy. This secluded, modern off-grid bothy is a live-and-work space for artists. The solar-powered structure features sheep’s wool insulation and heat from a wood-burning stove.

Sheep’s wool might sound like a surprising choice for insulation, but the benefits speak for themselves. It’s sustainable, locally grown, breathable and user-friendly. It’s also fireproof and dampens sound.

DIY Shower House

Yes, you can still enjoy a relaxing hot shower even while living off-grid. One option is a shower house like this one from @thehillsidemarket. (You can build your own with plans from her shop.) It requires a tote of water, propane tank and a battery. With just a few simple steps, you can shower while surrounded by nature.

Off-Grid Tiny House

Most off-grid cabins are small because smaller structures are easier to power. For this off-grid tiny house, purchase an instant download from @ElevatedSpacesShop that includes blueprints, a materials list, cut list and digital album with helpful photos and videos of the construction process.

The completed sleek, modern 380 square foot cabin offers an airy open layout and overhead loft bedroom.

The post 8 Small Cabin Ideas for Off-Grid Living appeared first on Family Handyman.

What Is Peecycling?

The term peecycling comes from a combination of peeing and recycling. Peecycling is actually a real thing that’s happening, spearheaded by the Rich Earth Institute in Brattleboro, Vermont. As part of the institute’s Urine Nutrient Reclamation Program, people can donate their pee. The Rich Earth Institute distributes 2.5- and five-gallon plastic jugs with odor-blocking funnel attachments. According to the institute, the setup “can be used as a urinal or an easy-to-pour-into container,” by using the nun’s cap or yogurt container and then pouring the contents into the funnel. They even distribute a “decorative cloth cozy” that fits over the jug for privacy. They also rent urine-collecting portable toilets for public events.

How Does Urine Work As Fertilizer?

Human urine is a rich source of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. According to the Rich Earth Institute, one adult produces about 125 gallons of urine per year. That’s enough fertilizer to grow 320 pounds of wheat.

The world faces a fertilizer shortage due to the war in Ukraine, and a critical need to find alternative sources of fertilizer. According to Rabobank, 20% of the world’s nitrogen fertilizer is exported by Russia—and along with Belarus, 40% of the world’s potassium.

Does Peecycling Help the Environment?

Beyond helping farmers to grow more food, peecycling is good for the environment. When flushed into wastewater systems, contaminants in fertilizers create environmentally damaging algal blooms. According to the Rich Earth Institute, a household can save about 4,000 gallons of potable water annually by not flushing.

The post Could Peecycling Help Struggling Farmers? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Space heaters direct warmth right at the user, making them a viable option to boost a chilly room or substandard heating system. But as Christmas 2022’s “bomb cyclone” proved, a space heater can only do so much. We moved inside.

Do you have a space heater? Do you know how much it costs to run? Read on to find out your space heater’s energy usage.

How Many Watts Does a Space Heater Use?

Electric space heaters for home use are usually rated for 1,500 watts at max power. That’s according to Ace Hardware, in partnership with Lasko, maker of home comfort products. (Putting your heater on a low setting will use less energy.)

How Much Electricity Does a Space Heater Use?

A 1,500-watt electric space heater draws 12.5 amps of electricity at 120 volts. (Watts = amps x voltage.) But what does that mean for your electric bill?

The utility doesn’t charge you for electricity in amps. It charges you for power consumed, and that’s measured in kilowatt-hours (kWh).

To figure out space heater energy usage in kilowatt-hours, and therefore how much it costs to run it, take the space heater rating in watts and multiply it by how many hours per day you use it. Then divide that number by 1,000 to convert to kWh.

Let’s say you have a home office in your garage like I do, and you use your 1,500-watt space heater eight hours per day. So 1,500 watts x 8 hours per day / 1000 = 12 kWh. As of November 2022, the average cost of electricity in the U.S. was $0.163 per kilowatt-hour, according to the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics. So 12kWh x $0.163 = $1.96 per day.

Bottom line: Your 1,500-watt space heater running eight hours per day will cost you about two dollars per day to operate, depending on your electricity rate.

Do Space Heaters Use a Lot of Electricity?

It depends on how you look at it.

Heat producers like dryers, resistive and infrared space heaters and furnaces generally use more energy than electronic devices like computers. Because we know how to calculate the cost of your space heater energy usage, let’s compare those numbers to other appliances and devices in your home.

Television

Check the back of your TV to see how many watts it typically uses. Mine is 73 watts, about average for its size. You guessed it! A 73-watt television consumes much less power than a 1,500-watt space heater.

Running four hours a day, a 73-watt TV costs about a nickel per day to operate or a little more than $17 per year. And that doesn’t include vampire energy. In comparison, a 1,500-watt space heater running four hours a day costs nearly $1 per day, or about $88 for three months of daily winter usage.

Laptop computer

Laptops draw power through their charger and use the battery when not plugged in. A laptop’s energy use varies depending on what it’s doing. Checking email will use significantly less energy than running a game.

A 96-watt laptop charging two hours a day costs about three cents daily, or $11.42 per year.

Vacuum cleaner

According to M Healthy, a vacuum cleaner uses 1,000 to 1,440 watts, although models vary (mine is only 840W). To find your specific energy usage, look at the label on your vacuum. Multiply the amps times the voltage to get the power consumed (in watts), then use the formula.

A 1,000-watt vacuum cleaner used one hour per week consumes one kWh of energy. At the average rate of $0.163 per kWh, the vacuum cleaner costs about $8.50 per year to run.

Clothes dryer

The average family does 300 loads of laundry per year. That’s about $245 per year for a 5,000-watt clothes dryer, making it one of the biggest energy users in your home. A 1,500-watt space heater running for the same 300 hours would cost $73.35 at the average electricity rate cited above.

FAQs

How can I reduce the energy consumption of my space heater?

You can use two basic strategies:

• Run the heater intermittently. If your heater has a timer, set it to automatically switch off the heater after a predetermined period, then wait until you really need heat before turning the heater back on. If your device has no timer, you can do this manually.
• Lower the thermostat, if your heater has one. Many space heaters have energy-saving (ECO) settings which allow them to run at lower wattage. Using the lowest setting can cut electricity usage almost in half.

Besides these strategies, you can also save on energy costs overall (not just the cost of using your space heater) by adding more insulation to your house.

How long can I let a space heater run continuously?

It takes about four to six hours for most models. Continuous operation risks overheating and fire, especially if you’re sleeping or not in the same room as the heater. If your heater has been running for several hours, you should turn it off if you notice any of the following:

• strange odors;
• unusual sounds;
• fluctuations in heat output;
• frequently tripping circuit breakers.

How to Choose the Best Space Heater

Whether you’re heating a room, garage, or greenhouse, learn how to choose the right space heater while keeping safety and efficiency in mind.

• What to Know About Space Heaters
• The Best Space Heater for Every Room 
• The Safest Space Heaters
• The Best Energy-Efficient Space Heaters
• What Are Infrared Space Heaters and How Do They Work?
• Best Infrared Space Heaters
• Why You Shouldn’t Use Extension Cords for Space Heaters
• How Much Does It Cost to Heat a Garage?
• Best Garage Heaters
• The Mr. Heater Garage Heater
• Best Portable Bathroom Heaters
• The Lasko Portable Space Heater Is a Permanent Fixture in My Bathroom
• Best Greenhouse Heaters for Efficient Plant Growth

Sources

• U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics: Average energy prices for the United States, regions, census divisions, and selected metropolitan areas; (2024)
• Eco Cost Savings: TV Wattage – 2024’s Most Efficient TVs Revealed [With Data]; (2024)
• M Healthy: Appliance Energy Use & Equivalent Exercise; (2024)
• National Park Service: Laundry Practices and Water Conservation; (2021)

The post How Much Electricity Does a Space Heater Use? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Whether you toss a string of lights on a potted evergreen or deck out your house Clark Griswold-style, putting up Christmas lights gets us into the holiday spirit. Taking them down, though? Not as much of a high. Maybe that’s why some people leave them up until they (and possibly you) just can’t take it anymore.

I had a neighbor who left Christmas lights up year round, and I once neglected mine until February. (Though I did feel bad about that.) But what does an etiquette expert have to say on the subject? How long can you properly — and safely — leave them up?

When To Take Down Christmas Lights

Though you’re free to leave them up as long as you want — barring a city ordinance — Diane Gottsman, an etiquette expert and founder of the Protocol School of Texas, suggests a more firm deadline.

“Lights can come down anytime after Christmas and preferably before Three Kings Day,” she says. That means January 6, the feast of the Epiphany in Christian tradition, which signifies the end of the Twelve Days of Christmas.

The National Fire Protection Association’s National Electric Code (NEC) has its own rule about holiday lights: You can keep them up for 90 days, max. Find out if it is safe to hang Christmas lights on palm trees.

Why It’s Important To Take Down Christmas Lights

“People who leave their lights up for too long often irritate neighbors who want their neighborhood to look fresh and well-maintained,” Gottsman says. (Guilty. Hey, my neighbor’s sad puddles of flattened inflatables were still there in June!) And, Gottsman says, it detracts from your home’s curb appeal.

“Holiday lights are welcome during the season,” she says. “But when you wait too long to take them down, it appears as if you’ve overlooked an important part of the tradition.”

Let’s talk about the safety aspect, too. The NEC isn’t concerned about judgy neighbors so much as preventing fires. People hang Christmas lights in trees, use a bunch of extension cords and generally do things that aren’t up to code for regular permanent wiring. Find out when you should take down a Christmas tree.

What’s more, growing vegetation puts a strain on wiring and can wear down insulation. So take them down in a timely manner, keeping the NEC deadline in mind. Christmas lights aren’t designed for year-round use.

How To Take Down Lights

“There’s always someone who leaves them up too long,” Gottsman says. Don’t let that be you this year. Here are some ideas for removing and storing your Christmas lights, so you’ll be ready to go when next Thanksgiving (or Halloween, for you early birds) rolls around.

Be safe

Don’t just start ripping lights off the house and trees. You’ll break bulbs and stress the wiring, which can be a potential fire hazard. About 790 house fires per year start with holiday decorations, according to the National Fire Protection Association. Unplug all your Christmas lights before taking them down, and practice good ladder safety.

Test

When the excitement of next season rolls around, don’t let a string of dead Christmas lights ruin your mood. Test every light set and other electric decorations now before stashing them. Plug them in to see if they light, or use a Christmas light tester to find and repair common problems like half-illuminated strings.

Store neatly

When you’re certain your Christmas lights are in good working order, don’t just jam them in a box and call it a day. That’s a recipe for frustration next year. Wind them around a cardboard “spool,” or make a real spool with dowels or even 2x4s. Spool them backward, starting at the non-plug end, so it’s easy to unspool from the power source next year.

Label

Some people wing their lighting displays each year. Others, not so much.

If Santa’s sleigh needs a specific wattage or flashing pattern or whatever crazy thing you’re doing this season, label your lights so you know what’s what. Group displays together in containers, and label the outside of the bin.

Recycle

If you discover lights that don’t work and aren’t worth fixing, recycle them. Hardware stores often take them, as do some charities. Check your city and county websites to see your options. Even if your city doesn’t have a recycling program, they should provide disposal and recycling information.

The post When Should You Take Down Your Christmas Lights? appeared first on Family Handyman.

Best Overall Smart Thermostat

Google Nest Learning Thermostat

Nest was one of the first smart thermostats to hit the market, and the brand continues to be one of the most reliable Wi-Fi-connected temperature control options. The 3rd Generation Google Nest learns your habits and schedule (like turning the temperature down before you go to bed) and automatically changes its settings to best fit your family’s needs.

Senior Editor Caroline Lubinsky loves her Google Nest and says it saves her noticeable dollars on her electric bill each month.

“I have two Nest Thermostats in my home, and I installed both myself without a hitch,” Lubinsky says. “I love how easy it is to adjust the temperature from my phone via the Nest app.”

“Additionally, I’ve noticed a decrease in my energy bill (yay!) because of the Eco Mode feature,” Lubinsky continues. “The Eco Mode feature keeps your Nest within the range of energy saving temperatures when you’re not in your home (or whenever you decide to toggle it on). It’s a life saver in those especially hot or chilly months where you’d typically pay through the roof for heating and cooling.”

Additionally, you can use either Google Assistant or Alexa for voice control. The Nest also sends an alert if something doesn’t seem right (like a sudden drop in temperature), along with helpful reminders to make maintenance easier.

Pros

• Learns your schedule and programs itself
• Compatible with 95% of heating and cooling systems
• Easy installation
• Works with Alexa
• Multiple color options

Cons

• Small screen might be difficult for some to operate
• Additional room sensors sold separately

249.0032% OFF$169.95 at Amazon

Best Budget Smart Thermostat

Amazon Smart Thermostat

The Amazon Smart Thermostat is an affordable, entry-level smart thermostat that’s easy to install (assuming you don’t live in a home with ancient wiring). It’s an attractive, simple device with most features accessible only in the app.

It’s the best smart thermostat for those on a budget (13,000+ five-star reviews on Amazon agree!). And while it may lack some learning capabilities featured in other smart thermostats, it still comes with quick scheduling features that should help reduce energy costs.

With the help of a professional and a C-wire adapter, my partner and I installed this in our home with old and complicated wiring. Before, we were only able to measure the temperature in our house in 10-degree increments. As you can imagine, this wasn’t good for several reasons, as we never knew the exact temperature. For a budget price, we can now control our home’s temperature from the Alexa app, and we’ve noticed a decrease in our monthly electric bill—plus, our cooling system isn’t working overtime trying to catch up with an old thermostat system.

Pros

• Very affordable
• Energy-star certified
• DIY install
• Compatible with Alexa-enabled devices

Cons

• Must use the app for advanced settings
• Will likely need to purchase a C-wire adapter for installation

$79.99 at Amazon

Best Splurge Smart Home Thermostat

Ecobee Smart Thermostat Premium

The Ecobee Smart Thermostat is the latest model of this popular thermostat brand. It features an upgraded smart sensor that lets you adjust your HVAC system’s output depending on whether a room is vacant or occupied. The Ecobee can also be used with or without a C-wire; however, those without one will need to purchase a separate C-wire adapter to do so.

“My multi-level house was built in 1985, so I wasn’t sure if the original thermostat was doing an adequate job of heating and cooling the entire home,” writes Senior Editor Cher Checchio. “With the Ecobee Smart Thermostat, I can see how effective it is at providing the right temperatures for as high as the upstairs loft to as low as the finished basement.”

She also loves using the included SmartSensor that she places in her daughter’s nursery. “It’s the most important room in the house, so I like that the SmartSensor keeps the nursery comfortable and that I can easily adjust it from my phone with the Amazon Alexa integration.”

Pros

• Includes smart speaker with voice control
• Built-in air quality monitor
• User-friendly screen
• SmartSensor can be placed anywhere in home

Cons

• More expensive than other models

249.996% OFF$234.99 at Amazon

Best Smart Thermostat for AC Units and Electric Heaters

Mysa Smart Programmable Wi-Fi Thermostat

If you need a smart thermostat that’s compatible with portable and window AC units, electric baseboard heaters, electric fan-forced heaters, and in-ceiling radiant heaters, then the Mysa Smart Thermostat is the one for you. It’s compatible with Alexa, Google Assistant and Apple HomeKit. The compatible Mysa app features energy charting, scheduling, vacation mode, geofencing and geolocation, zone control and more. Installation should take only about 15 minutes, and the Mysa kit comes with easy-to-follow guides.

Senior Manager at Trusted Media Brands Nathan Lin tested this unit and says, “The Mysa Smart Thermostat is a good way to turn a controlled split AC unit into smart system with Wi-Fi.”

“The physical thermometer itself is very well built, lightweight and space saving. However, its one downfall comes from the Mysa app. I had a difficult time connecting my AC unit to the app initially. It took me over 40 minutes to properly set it up,” Lin says. “Fortunately, I only have to set it up once. And I am happy to have the ability to control my AC via my phone now.”

Pros

• Works with many different types of heating and cooling systems that aren’t whole-home
• Affordable
• Integrates with all smart home assistants
• Sleek, minimalist design

Cons

• App can be difficult to set up for some users

Shop Now

Other Smart Thermostats We Considered

Curious about the thermostats that didn’t quite make our top four favorites? Check them out below:

Wyze Programmable Smart Wi-Fi Thermostat

Wyze Programmable Smart Wi-Fi Thermostat boasts a seven-day scheduling feature. You can set different temperatures for home, sleep and away each day of the week without having to constantly adjust the thermostat or worry about kids changing the settings.

Control this smart thermostat with the app on your smartphone or tablet or via voice control through Google Assistant or Alexa. This thermostat also helps you save energy by supplying tips based on your usage history, and unlike other models, it includes a C-wire adapter for homes without a C-wire. However, the installation process is very tough, and many users mention that the screen is low quality.

Emerson Sensi Touch

The Emerson Sensi Touch has a large 4.3-inch touchscreen that’s easier on the eyes than most other smart models on the market. Even more helpful: The color of the screen changes—blue for cooling, red for heat—so you can immediately identify your HVAC mode.

The Sensi Touch also features flexible scheduling, which allows you to set your HVAC settings for each day of the week; and geofencing, which adjusts the temperature based on whether you’re home or not. According to Emerson, these features, along with the other smart options built into the Sensi, will save you up to 23% on your energy bill. However, many users report that the temperature sensor is a bit wonky and will turn on A/C or heat when it isn’t needed.

Lux Kono Smart Wi-Fi Thermostat

The Lux Kono Smart Wi-Fi Thermostat is great for oil and electric furnaces, forced air, gas and heat pumps. It’s compatible with Alexa, Apple HomeKit and Google Assistant, and, like most other smart thermostats, it requires a C-wire for installation. It has an interchangeable black stainless-steel faceplate, and the Lux app allows you to control the device from anywhere.

The Lux Kono thermostat is energy-star certified and features smart scheduling and tips for maximum energy savings. It even has an indoor air quality mode designed to promote air comfort and temperature alerts, which are great when pets or elderly persons are home alone. Unfortunately, the Wi-Fi connection is notably spotty, which is why we didn’t include it in our top favorites.

What to Consider When Buying a Smart Thermostat

The most important thing to keep in mind when looking for the best smart thermostat for your needs is compatibility. While it’s not hard to install one of these devices, it’s crucial to make sure it can be used with your HVAC system first. Before you buy, ask yourself the following questions:

Does the smart thermostat need a C-wire?

Whether your thermostat has a C-wire (common wire) determines which devices you can install. If you already have a C-wire, you’re good to go, and can pick from an array of devices. If you don’t have a C-wire, you’ll need to choose a thermostat that runs on rechargeable batteries. Battery-operated thermostats will be easy to set up, but you’ll need to keep track of when the battery is low.

Is the smart thermostat compatible with your HVAC system?

There are multiple kinds of HVAC units, and your thermostat needs to work with the one in your home. You typically need a central HVAC system, Wi-Fi and a smartphone for full control. If your house has more than one temperature zone, you may need to get multiple thermostats.

Does the smart thermostat work with other smart home devices?

There are several smart home ecosystems these days, and they don’t always play well with each other. If you use Google Home, you’ll want a device that works with it. The same goes for Amazon Alexa or Apple HomeKit.

How We Chose the Best Smart Thermostats

In addition to testing the top thermostats on this list for over a month in our own homes to provide you with real-life, honest reviews, we also researched virtually every smart thermostats on the market.

We looked for features like efficiency, simple installation, connectivity and user-friendly displays. Brands like Nest, Amazon, Mysa and Ecobee are among the top contenders. We also included options that fit a wide range of heating and cooling systems, so that you can have smart options no matter what kind of system you’re working with in your home or apartment.

FAQ

What is the difference between a smart and programmable thermostat?

Smart thermostats are just like traditional, programmable thermostats, but they connect to Wi-Fi, can be remotely controlled from your smartphone and adapt and learn for optimal performance.

How do smart thermostats work?

Smart thermostats can be hardwired into your HVAC system, just like a standard thermostat, or run on rechargeable batteries. But it’s their Wi-Fi connectivity that really sets them apart. Once connected, the thermostat will sense your home’s temperature and automatically adjust according to your settings. You can run it manually or set it on a schedule. Some models can even “learn” your habits and set the right temperature when you’re home, away or sleeping.

Do smart thermostats use a lot of electricity?

The greatest benefit to installing a smart thermostat is saving energy and money. Some claim the thermostat will pay for itself in two years, while others tout up to a 23% savings on heating and cooling costs.

Of course, how you use it will ultimately determine how much you save. Additionally, it’s hard to beat the convenience of changing the temperature from your smartphone! With all these things combined, a smart thermostat is a no-brainer choice to upgrade your home to a smart home.

The post We Tested the 4 Best Smart Thermostats to Control Your Temperature and Electric Bill appeared first on Family Handyman.